Wave 

Breaking

Section 4.7
 When Wave Breaking Occurs
When Wave Breaking Occurs
• Kinematic
Kinematic criteria:
criteria:
‐ Particle velocity > the phase velocity
‐ Vertical velocity  > the gravitational acc. g
i l l i h i i l
• Wave slope 
‐ Periodic wave when ka > 0.44 or H/L . 0.14
• However, wave breaking occurs before the 
However wave breaking occurs before the
waves reach these criteria.
 Causes for Wave Breaking
Causes for Wave Breaking
1. Wave
1 Wave Instability
Instability
2. Wave interaction between LW & SW (see 
picture) or wave focusing
picture) or wave focusing
3. Wind effects
4. Water depth limit:  McCowan’s Criterion

H b  Khb K  0.78 ~ 0.80,

where H b is the wave height right before the breaking
hb i the
is th water
t depth
d th att the
th wave breaking
b ki
 Significance of Wave Breaking
Significance of Wave Breaking
1. Mass
1 Mass Transport (Vertically)
Transport (Vertically)
2. Gas transport (air – water mixing)
3 Wave energy dissipation (limit the wave 
3. di i i (li i h
elevation)
4. Generate long‐shore current in the surf zone
5. May stir up the sediment in the water 
y p
column, crucial to sediment transport.  
 Wave Breaker Type 
see Fig. 4.22 at p114

• Spilling:
Spilling: steeper crest
steeper crest‐>> lose stability: mild 
lose stability: mild
beach slope
• Plunging: overturning: steeper beach
Plunging: overturning: steeper beach
• Surging: bottom part surges over high‐sloped 
b h
beach: very steep beach & high reflection
b h & hi h fl i
• Spilling and Plunging wave breaker can also 
occur in deep water