I 1 iL RMl ILl 9

L'^'^y^v^

FOR INSTRUCTION IN THE

AET AlB SCIMCE «^ 6AEME3ST CHTTIIG,

FOR ALL THE

viiii^iis i^oMMSoFTii vmm

H MQii\( W)

BY

A^XJG^XJSTXJS KOCH.
iLLUSirr^ATED BY
'r W E L V E

PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAYED DIAGRAMS AND FIGURES,

WITH FULL INSTRi:CTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF COATS,

AND VESTS.

POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y.

18 8 3.

n^
V -
Ill «f A
r]
li
a

FOR INSTRUCTION IN THE

AET MB SCIEIGE «p fiAllillT CIITTII6,

FOR ALL

Tl]e Yarious Forms of tl]e ^umai] Body.

BY

^TJGMJSTXJS KOCH,
ILLUSTI^AIIIED BY
FIFTEEN
PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAYED DIAGRAMS AND FIGURES,

WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF COATS,

VESTS AND PANTS.

POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y
18 8 3.
 in the yeaF 1883, by
Entered according to Act of Congress

alTtUstus Kocn,
at Wasiiington, D. C.
In tlie office of the Librarian of Congress
 '

']^W rii ^)Mt»,

Tins IMPOVED voLUMF,, introduced by

wliicli is Balance,) which are all taken from one iwint,
these few lines, is Second Edition
in reality tlie —never fail, if correctly taken, to produce a
of tlje Author" s celebrated System pulished in well-fitting garment, and accomplish the good
1876, then entitled " The Cutters'' Centennial result for all the various forms of the human
Guide," which is so extensively and successfully body.
used in almost every State of the Union.
The Work is original in all the general details
This Volume, therefore, is intended to unfold introduced, both in the Description given, and in
the NEW DiscovEKiES and improvements since the accomiianying fifteen Plates of Illustration.
then made, in as finely illustrated fashion as the
subject will permit or the Author can present it. The two Figures show the different points
and application of the tape-measure the Dia- ;

That a new departure and radical changes are and the Description ex-
grams the drafting ;

disseminated in the professional Art of Cutting,

need not be argued at this time, for the present
work will bear the scrutinizing eye of the candid
artist, who will find unfolded to his untiring
vision the most scientific Peoblem ever devel-
oped by any author of systems of Garment Cut-
ting.
In this Volume will be found the grand com-
bination of the two great principles upon which
true Garment Cutting is founded, which are
Simplification and Accuracy and the ground ;
plains the whole in a clear and thorough man-
ner, so that any Cutter of ordinary talent can
use the System at once, and with full success.
And, furthermore, the young man who does
not understand Cutting at all, can learn it easily
from the instruction given in the book, without
a personal instructor or teacher.
The Author claims that he has brought out and
developed, in condensed form, a true and re-

PLAN underlying these principles comprises Ac-

liable WORK ON Garment —
Cutting, as only
STUDY' and experience can offer and produce.
tual Measurement and Direct Application
of the measures to the Draft as taken from the In conclusion, the Author advises all those
Body. who intend to study and jjractice these new
The wonderful invention by the Author of the principles to lay aside all prejudice and follow
ONE GRAND NEW MEASURE Called " SllOUldcr out the instruction as herein given and if you ;

Regulator," and its direct application to the thus do, COMPLETE SUCCESS will foUow, and you
—
draft as taken from the Body in connection with will become a hearty indorser of this valuable
tJiree other measures (Front, Back and Waist Work.

G^ivifJTrioN.

To all nhoin it may concern : Notice is hereby given to all persons in whose hands
a copy of this work may be placed, that the publisher is the sole proprietor and vender, according
to the laws of the United States of America ; and any person or persons who attempt to publish, or

have it published, in whole or in part, or teach others from the illustrations and instructions

herein contained, will hold themselves liable to heavy penalties. And, further, it is understood
that this work is not transferable to a third party without a written consent from the publisher,
which consent will be attached to the work so transferred ;
[and for any violation thereof, proceed^

ings will be commenced at once against all such offenders.

 —

THE GUTTER AND GUIDE.

F^Fi^aa^ia^i!^ HiKa^s
IX KEGAED TO

Measurement and Position of the Customer.

]T[HE Measurement of Gakmejs'ts is a subject The third
practical hint is should take
: We
-A- brings before us an extensive sphere
wliicli all the principal measures which are necessary
of imi^ortant matters on which a large volume to produce a correct draft for the form of body
might be written but it is not my intention to
;
— but beyond this, all the proof or check mea-
do so. The only desii-e that I have is, to impress sures should be avoided. Those measures will
the important subject, which is so worthy of do more harm than good to the Cutter.
study and consideration, on the mind of the Cut- Fourth All the necessary measures should l)e
:

ter who may use this System. I do not mean by taken without instrument, and with tape only.
this (or even attempt to do so,) to instruct the It is a well known fact, that there are systems
skilful Artist who has had many years of practi- of garment cutting wherein an almost endless a-
cal experience in tlie profession of Cutting, —he mount of measures have to be taken, and to pro-
knows all this. It is, therefore, not this class of duce them the Cutter must use a measuring
men which I try to instruct, but it is the young, square or MEASURING MACHINE in wMch the cus-
inexperienced Cutter for whom the subject is in- tomer is placed, like a horse in harness. Now,
tended. most disagreeable thing for
this is not alone the
We find many things in regard to measure- customer and Cutter, but it is also the loorst
taking, which the Cutter may look upon as very thing ever invented, because more blunders are
triiling matters, —
but nothing in relation to mea- made with this class of instruments tlian we can
surement is so trifling and insignificant as not to imagine.
need full explanation. The fifth practical hint is: That all these
We will now and show some of these
begin, measures which may be necessary for any one
trifling things, but which are sufficient to produce system should be taken correctly and with utmost
misfits and alterations whereby hundreds of dol- care, so that they will give the actual amount
lars may be lost every year. which the body calls for and in not doing so,
;

The first one which we will mention is, talk- we find the cause why some cutters will get in
ing to the customer while tou are taking troublemore or less, and then discard their Sys-
HIS measures. tem and fly to a new one. Now this is a great
Let it be understood between you and your em- mistake —
failure and trouble must occur Avitli
:

ployer, or whosoever takes down the measures, the best System, if a careless measurement is
not to talk to the customer (if it can be avoided) taken.
while you are taking his measures. Nothing is It stands to reason that, should we make an
more annoying to the Cutter and injurious to his error in the measurement, it is certain that the
work than this trifling matter. Now, should you same error will be made in the draft. And, again,
want my reason for this, I will simply state :
if we can expect a good fitting garment at all, it

when talking is going on, the customer will twist necessarily is because we have the correct mea-
and move about, and consequently will get out of sure by which the good fitting garment is pro-
his natural position. duced. This is appliable to any one System
The second hint is that every Cutter, no mat-
: which the Cutter may use.
ter what system he may have, or use, should Sixth. To accomplish the good result, and to
have his regular fixed points on the body, from —
secure a correct measurement, The only safe and
which the tape measure has to be applied and ;
sure plan is, that all the measures should be taken
so long as these points are correct once, and hold over the Vest. No doubt some Cutters will say,
good in all cases and forms of the body, and the '
this is a very difficult matter to do.' Now every
measures from those points will produce the cor- Cutter of experience must confess, that when the
rect draft, he should stick close to them, and not measures have to be taken over a bad-fitting Coat,
jump from one experiment to anotlier. We find it is the most difficult work that a cutter can un-

many Cutters who are like grasshoppers, jump- dertake. If this is true, why, then, should the
ing from one point to another experimenting — measures taken over the Vest be more difficult
in a different measurement for every coat and — than otherwise? It is certainly as easy, if not
are never successful in cutting. more so, as any other plan in existence.
 THE CUTTER AXI) GUIDE.
The measurement over the Vest has certain ad-
vantages. Take, for instance, the Coat whicli is
NATURAL POSITION.
more or less wadded, yes, some, we must say, are \V(" can say from experience, tliat in a majority
stuffed out with wadding,— now, then, is it possi- of cases,where customers come to the Cutter to
ble for any one to ascertain the real amount have their measures taken, we will find "very few
which the Body actually calls for while, on the
'. stooping or disj^roportioned men even the most
;

other hand, by taking the measures over the stooping forms will stand straight, or nearly so.
Vest, nothing will interfere, and we will have Now, should we establish our points and apply
just so much — no
more, no less. the tape measure to the form in such an unnatu-
Again Supposing the customer is one-sided,
: ral position, it is impossible that the garment
one shoulder lower than the other— it will not be would fit when they stand in their natural shape.
noticed when the coat is on, because the shoulder The question may arise, how do we know if the
is raised up with wadding so that it will appear customer is in his natural position? andif so, hoAv
level with the other. Now, if the customer does can we avoid it ? My ansAver to this question is,
not caution the Cutter, he will discover the error Take a "quiet survey" of yoiir customer as he
when the garment is finished, and by the altera- enters your cutting room, and as he is looking at
tions which must follow while, by taking the
; the fashion plate, or in any other way opportu-
measures over the Vest, we liave the whole form nity may offer and by doing so, you can judge
;

before us, and nothing will hide its defects from
notice. These few remarks we deem sufficient
to show the advantages of measuring without
Squake and Coat.
But there is another very important point that
we must impress upon the mind of every Cutter,
which is of like importance as the measurement
itself, if not more so,— and this is: Before we
can expect a correct measurement at all, it is ab-
solutely necessary tliat the customer must stand
in his
very nearly of the figure you may have to clothe.
Now, should he present himself to you in any
other form when you are ready to establisli the
points and take the measure, then talk to him
and attract his attention to some other things,
and you will soon find that he has come to terms
— will show, perhaps, his round shoulders, and
stand in his usual jiosition.
Supposing, now, that this be the case, we then
goon and mark our Points, as illustrated by Fio-
ti:e 1 and Figi'ke 2.

D
LATE
Illustration of Points and Measurement,
Figure 1 and Figure 2.
p^x THIS System we have only one point that shall join the collar, (say one inch below the top
m requires the plumb line, and this point we
find by Eye measure. But as we desire that the
or crease of collar,) so that these marks will show
thus +, and we have point A, Figure 1.
location of this point sliaJl be fully understood Tiien make a clialk mark lengthways in centre
by all who may use this Systinii, we will explain of back, as at K, thence crossing at a i:)oint
it with a ruler to the new Ijeginiu'r :
about one-third of top and bottom of arm, from
Bring the Vest smoothly down to the body at bottom of arm up, and we have the point K,
the waist, and fasten it to the pants with a pin so Fig. 1. It is a good plan, when the waist length
it will stay in its place. Now take a short ruler, is taken from A to B, to note the exact amount
place it against the right front arm, let it r\in from A to K.
down in a plumb line, and di-aw a chalk maik at Next, make a mark in centre of back at waist,
I), or waist, on the same side of ruler that rests and we have point E, Figure ].
on arm. Having this line, then draw a chalk Tliese four P( ints which we have now estab-
mark crossways above the hip-boiic, in tlic most lished will produce the Balance of the Coat, and
hollow i)art of the body, so that tiiese two marks thei'efore the Cuttei- should locate them with the
will show thus -f and we have point I), Fig-
,
greatest care.
ure 2.
Having located those I'oints, we then go on to
Now make a maik Ifugthways iti centre of show
back, at neck, as at A, Fig. t. Then make a THE MEASl REPEAT.
mark cro.ssways, at a point where the toj) of back Bring the tape on+ A, Fig. 1: measure to K, (say
 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.
6i inches); let it nm
down to B, for full length of Fig, 2, and measure to E, centre of back, as
waist, (say 18f inches), thence to C, full length of shown on Fig. 1, (say7i inches), and we have the
coat (say 38 inches). These three measures may Back Waist measure. Let the tape measure rest
be taken before your customer has laid off his on -\- T), Fig. 2, bi'ing the tape up in back of
coat and those not experienced in measuring
; arm to top of shoulder, as shown by line H, Fig.
over the vest may adopt that plan at the begin- 1 and 2, and then across the acromian process,
ning, and thus make a gradual change if they or, in other words, one inch from the extreme
deem it advisable to do so. end of shoulder point, in a smootli-fitting man-
Now place the tape measure on -|-, A,'_.Fig. 1, ner, then down in front of arm to the starting
and measure from that jjoint, as follows : point -|- D, (say 31 inches), and we have the
From A, down in back in a direct line to -|- I), grand ritio measure called
Fig. 2, as line P, Fig. 1 indicates, (say \^\ inches), THE SHOriiDER RECil LATOR.
and we have the Back Balance measure. Bring the Notj: Before taking this measure, see that
:

tape over the front shoulder, and measure from A, your customer's shoulder is down in natural po-
down in front of arm to -|-l),Fig.2,(say 20^ inches), sition, not raised or drawn back. Again, draw
and we have the Front Balance. Extend the tape your measure close, but not tight, and shoiild
measure to I, or hand, for full length of sleeve, correspond in closeness to Front and Back Bal-
(say 31i inches). ance.
Note : The measure for sleeve length may be Next apply the tape for Breast Measure, as
taken in another form, as follows Raise the arm
:
shown by L, Figures 1 and 2. Bring the tape
in horizontal line with the body, have the elbow measure close up under the arms, then across the
slightly bent. Then measure from centre of shoulder blades, and back again to the starting
back to elbow, (say 20 inches), then to the hand, point, (say 36 inches). This measure should be
full length of sleeve, (say 32^ inches). We leave taken quite snug, so that we may have the actual
this for the Cutter to decide which measure he size of Breast.
will adopt. The next and last measure we now take is
Having the tape measure yet in fiont of arm as the Waist Measure, as shown by line M, Fig. 2.
before stated, then measure from A, down in front Bring the tape around the waist where the body
of the arm, bring the tape around under the arm is the smallest, and note the amount, (say 32
in a close-litting manner, (close, but not tight), inches).
then up to the starting jioint A, as indicated by This completes the measurement, summed up
line Gr, Figures 1 and 2, (say 264^ irrches"), and we as follows :

have the Arm-depth measure. 6^ inches Point of shoulder measure.

Now, let the tape measure rest in that position 18f " Full length of waist measure.
in front and under the arm, and bring the tape 38 " Full length of coat.
down on back to point K, as shown by Figure 1, 19|- " Back balance measure.
(say 23i inches), and we have the Slioulder mea- 20| " Front balance
sure. 31^ '" Sleeve length
The Cutter will see l)y this, tliat all the above 26i " Arm depth
measures are taken from Point A, top of back, 23i '• Shoulder
where the end of the tape is held with the left 7i •' Back waist "
hand, and with the right hand we apply the 31 " Shoulder Regulator measure.
tape to the different points. 36 " Breast measure.
Now luring tlie tape measure down on + I), 32 " Waist '•
 —

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

THE COAT SYSTEM.

Plate
Diagram A.

1 HOWING THE SrAFT OF A ©OUBLE-IrEASTED Jf ROCK loAT.

Draw a line in centre ol' l)ack as from O to (). from K and make a sweep line with yovir
to 8,

Square out at riglit anule from A to Y. ]k)lli left thundj-nail. Then apply the same amount
of these lines are tlie oonstruction lines from (13^ inches) from H to 3, and make a sweep line
which we ajtply tlie ineasure to complete the also, as shown in Diagram. Now place the
draft. s(piare on line let long arm of square rest
;

The next point which we must now establish is on cros^;ing of sweep lines at 3, and in that posi-
line B, or front of arm scye, and this we do by tion draw a line from L, through sweep to V, in
the slionlder oneafnire, which calls for 23i inches front, and we have the bottcmi of arm scye.
in the measurement. Having this, then we establish point J, and by
Take this measure, divide it in two equal parts, this we find line C.
and apply one-lialf, (llf inches), from A to B, Take one-third of A and B, (3J inches), and
and the correct point for the fi'ont of arm scye is bring this from line B to J. Having this point,
established. (This point will lie more fully ex- then api)ly f inch in all cases and sizes from J to
plained below.) JSTow, square u]) from B to D, C, and square line G up to &
which we will call line B. Now take one-half of B and C, (2^ inches), add
Next in order is the Front Balance measure, one seam, and bring the amount from H to I also —
wdiich calls for 20^ inches. Take the amount and from D to G. Square out from G to U.
apply it from B to D. Square out to K, and the Next in order is line P, or point of back sleeve
front length of the coat is established. seam place the ruler on crossing of B and L lines,
—
Then apply the f3ack AVaist measui'e, 7^ inches, let it rest on H, top of back, aard make a mark on
from A to E, and make a mark. line C, as at N. NcJw place the square on centre
Having- this, then draw a short line from B to of back, and square out from P through to M. N
F, which is in the direction to top of back. Now Then mark width back as at
and 2, (say |
of 1
locate point F. Measure the distance from E to inch on each side of line P,) or any width ac-
B, (4^ inches), divide this in six equal jiarts, and cording to fancjr or fashion, and draw line 1 and
apply one part ({^ inches) from B toF. This one- 2— mark out from 2, for pitch of back, say f inch
sixth maybe readily found as follows if you : more or less, according to the fashion of the
have a division square, then measure the distance day.
from E to B, with the division of 4ths, and what- Next the measure for length of waist
a[)])ly
ever the number may be in this (No. 17 in this from H to W,
18f inches. Square out from W
case), take the same number in the division of to X. Mark up from I, f inch for spring of back.
24tlis, and yciu \\ill ]ia\e the one-sixtli from B Having all these points, we are now prepared
to F. to tinish tile Back. Shape the centre line of back
Next in order is the Back i'alancc mcnsiirc fiom L to AV. Mark width of back as from to A
Take this measure IDi inches, add one seam, and 4. Tlien comnience and shape the back: draw a
apply the amount fidiii F to II, and we Imve the line from II to maik above I, from I to 2, from
correct length of back. Sipiare out fiom II to T. 2 to ], and from idown through 4 to bottom, ac-
Having this, then locate ])oiiit K. Take the coi'ding to fancy or fashion, and as shown in Di-
amount from A to 13, divide it in four ])arfs, agram A.
and api)ly one-fourth, {21 inciies), fiom T) to K, Now locate })oint Q. I)ivi(h' tlie distance from
and make a mark. L to P in four (>qual parts, antl bring one part
Now proceed to locate line L. or bottom of arm from line which gives us the point for
L up to Q,
scye. Take the aiiu ch^pth measure "JC)] inches, front of slee\-e seam. Next place the tape on
and ajiply one jialf of this measure [\'.\\ inches) point of side body as at 1, and make a sweep line
 PLATE II

--1^ -

See Dia0r G Plate Vll

3

1
 PLATE, III.

^^\
 — )

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 9

from bottom of inside seam of Ixick out to G, ted, as follows: "Mark width of back (say f
which line will give the length of side body. inch) on each side of line P, or any width accord-
Place the rnler on i3oiut K and M, and draw a ing to fancy or fashion. No doubt to the practi-
'

'

a line. Now locate point R. Measure the dis- cal Cutter this point is now clear why we have
tance from line B to C, (4f inches), divide this in given the liberty of drawing the back shoulder
three equal parts, and apply one-third, (If inch- seam higher, or lower, than f inch. Supposing
es), from B to R, and we have the correct j)oint we would mark line 2, one inch further up than
from which we apply the grand new measure in Diagram and as above stated, then dra*' our
called back shoulder seam by this line Now apply :

your Shoulder Regulator measure from R, to top

" The Shoulder Re!;ulator."
This we hud calls for 31 inclies in the measure-
ment. Now take the tape, place it on R, let it
run ui) in a direct line to top of back shoulder
seam at line C, (say 14^ inches,) bring the
of shoulder at line C, and we have just the same
amount more which we have marked up for line
2. Now place the amount on R, mark off 31
inches, up to S, and we find this point is just the
same amount lower down and so vice versa.
;

amount, whatever it may be, on R, and apply Therefore we say to the Cutter, suit yourself in
full length of measure, 31 inches, in a direct line regard to the shoulder drop of back, and have
up to S, and make a sweep line out from this this point according to your taste or fancy, and
point, as shown in Diagram, and we have the cor- the Slioulder Regulator measure will establish
rect point by which we draw our line for front point S, accordingly.
shoulder seam. Having made this statement, we are I'eady to
Now I must draw your attention to the i-emark cut out the Back, and by doing so proceed and
which I have made when points 1 and 2 were loca- take lip

Plate
Diagram B.

In which we find the necessary instruction to portant matter. Make a mark in centre of back
finish the Draft. 6 J inches below H, for point of shoulder measure.
First, proceed and hnisli the front Shoulder. (See measurement.
Take the back, bring it on top of front shoulder, Then take the Shoulder measure, which calls for
let H rest on K and fasten the back at this point 23J inches, add f inch for seams in all cases, and
with a pin. Having done so, then shove the back apply the full amount, (24^ inches in this draft),
in so that top of back will rest on KM line, and as follows :
—
From K to Q, then around the
point pitch of back, will be f inch above sweep
2,
front arm manner, to 3,
scye, in a smooth-fitting
line S and in that position draw a line liy back
;
and from 3 in a direct line to centre seam of back
shoulder seam from K M
line U) * centre of and mai'k made by 6^ inches shove the back in
;

shoulder. Now place the pin at • and shove the at bottom until this measure will rest on or meet
back down so it will rest on sweep line S. Draw this i^oint and when so, then draw a line from
;

a line from * to pitch of back. Having this, let 1 to line L, alongside of the back, and we have

tlie l)ack remain in that position and shape the the correct rounding for the form of the body.
upi)er arm scye by back pitch down to Q to 3. Now let the back remain in that position, and
Now take the back off and shape the shoulder of shape the arm scye from 1 to 3, as shown in Dia-
front part, from arm scye to * and from that gram.
point out to K M line,
shown in Diagram A.
as Having this, then place the pin close to the
Next proceed and linish the side body and edge of inside line of back at L, and shove the
waist. Bring the back to point of side body, let back in below. Now take the Back Waist mea-
line 1, and liack meet, and fasten the back
front sui'e, add 1\ inch in all cases to the measure, and

at this point with a pin. Having done so, then bring the amount (8| inches in this case) from B
the next thing must be to find the correct round- to A, or centre of back, as shown in Diagram ;

ing of side body from 1 to line L, which will lie and in that position, draw a line from L to bottom
in harmony with the form of body for which the of back, as shown by dotted line. Having this,
draft is made. Now to accomplish this to our en- then finish the side body by these lines give a :

tire satisfaction, we must apply the shoulder little more i-ounding at top, from 1 to L, and be-
measure, which is the only true guide in this im- low L, hollow the side body a trifle to A line,
 10 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.
and from there pive tlie neeessary sijring to 0, Next finish the lapel. Draw a line from X to
wliateA^er the foi'in may need, as sliovvn in Dia- top — extend A and L line out. Mark width at
grams B and A. toja (say 2\ inches), or fashion at line L, (say 2f —
Next, finisli the Waist j^art. Draw a line inches) at A
line, (say 2i inches) at bottom, (say —
for width of side body, according to fancy or 2 inches), finish the top according to the fashion
fashion, as from line L, to 7, tf) 9. Now we liave of the day. Now proceed and draw the front
given 1\ inch more than back waisl measiire from line from top to bottom, and finish all the rest, as
—
B to A, I inch of which is necessary for seams; shown in Diagram A and B, and the draft for a
the other half inch we takeout between side body double breasted coat is finished.
and front part, as from 7 to S. Having this, then But here I will say, In case the Cutter should
draw a corresponding line from L, througli 8, to be in doubt that he may not have applied the
bottom. Next establish the bottom line of side Shonlder Measure for the rounding of side body
body. Bring the angle of s(|nare on 0, Diag. A as it ought to be, and according to the explana-
;

let long arm of square rest on H, top of back, tion herein given, then he may i^rove its correct-
and draw a line from to 9, and by this shape ness by the Back Balance measure, as follows :

the bottom line of side body. Mark up from B, to * at F, (Diagram B), the
The next thing must be to apply the Breast same amount as w-e have taken out from 7 to 8,
measure. Close the back to side body, as in Dia- or i inch and from tliis apply the Back Balance,
;

gram B. Measure out from L to T, one-half 19^ inches, uj) to H, and make a sweep line, as
breast measure,18 inches— from T to V, 2* inches shown in Now, if the top of back
Diagram B.
in all sizes. Square up from T to U. From U, will rest on this sweep line when brought in a
draw a line to V. joining i)Osition with side body, as in Diagram,
From U to Z, mark ^ inch
more tlian one-sixth of breast, 3^ inches—from then the application of the Shoulder Measure is
G to Z 2, (Diagram A), one-half the amount, correct.

If inches— and draw a line l)y these points, for Now, as we have finished the draft, and are
depth of neck. Now place the back on toj) of ready take the fol-
to cut the pattern out, let lis

shoulder point, as in Diagram B, and hnish the loAving measures from the draft wdiile it is whole,
neck gorge as in Diagram. and therefore it is more convenient to do so.
First: Close the back and front shoulder at
Next to this we apply the AVaist Meas-
line S, as in Diagram B. Now, measure from N,
ure. You will remember that we have applied
the back waist measure from B to A. Now bring
or P around the upper arm scye to Q in
line,
front, in a close-fitting manner, and we will find
the amount 7^ inches on line B, mark out to
9 inches in this draft. Note the amount down.
front, one-lialf waist, 10 inches, and allow one-
Next ]\Ieasure from Q around the lower arm
:

half incli, or even one inch more for making uj),

scye up to N, in back, (say 7f inches). Note the
and we have point Y. Note :— The allowance at
amount down.
this i^oint depends entirely on the material, and
Then bring the tape on K, and measure to Q,
also on the ease which the customer wishes.
(say llf inches). Note tliis down also.
Now commence and finish the front. Draw a These three measures we will need when the
line from neck point to V, from through to V Y draft of Sleeve is made, which we find in Plate
bottom. Then draw the bottom line; ccmimence
YI, Diagrams E and F.
one seam below the side body at 9, and stiike
Having these three measures, then cut the pat-
X in front, and as shown in Dia^ram. tern out.
I

HE JrAFT of a flNGLE §REASTED foAT.

I (li'cni it neccssaiy to state to (lie young,
Nouiiu', mex-
inox- |
foi.t.owkd nv the
followjod by tiik. cutteh.
r
pei'ienced Cuttei-, that the Single P.reasted Coat Vuv a which shall roll down to the 2d but-
coat
[

isdrafted in the same niannei' as the Double ton at waist, and which is intended to button xip
j

Breast<'il.willioul any cliaug.' wliati'vcr, except below,— We mark out from V (say 1^ inches) and
the front, whi'iv a certain aiuouul has to be at Y (say more or les.s, according to the
1 inch)
brought out from A' and Y. ease want(>d by the ciistomer.
Now, in regard to the amouiil which is needed, .\ coat with a short roll, and intended to but-

no fixed quantity can be given, ami must be made ton \\\) vfiy high, —
One inch is sufficient from V
according to the style oC fi-ont. We will there- out ;
and lielow this point the style and fashion
fore give a guide onlv, which mav lie will i-eiiuhite it.
 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.
Mesiiarksi on the above Draff.
The Draft of Diagrams A and B is now finisli-
'^d and thorouglily exj^Iained. Therefore, I deem
it my dnty to state, that by this single draft
the Cutter has (with only one exception, my
whole System of the Coat Body. No mat-
ter what shape or form he may have to deal
with, or for which he may be called upon to pro-
©HE SHOULDEI^
IN CONEECTION WITH FRONT AND BACK BALANCE.
Thisa simple but highly important point,
is
and those who intend to study and practice
all
this New System should follow tlie instruction as
herein given :
Tire Cutter will see at once that the Front and
BacTc Balances measures will bring the length of
and back
coat, in front and, according to the
; Supposing now the shoulder measure calls for
length of the Back Balance, the sweep lines at
3 will change more to the front or to the back.
(See Diagrams A, C and D.)
And just in the same manner the Shoulder
measure must change also, otherwise it will not
be in harmony with Front and Back Balance
measures.
Now this we do in a very easy and simple
way, Avithout any comxDlication whatever.
In the regular x>i'oportioned size of coat, (no
matter what the size of breast may be), the back
balance is always one inch less than the front
balance. Diagram A). But
(See measurement.
as long as the back balance does not run below
this one inch, and also not above the front bal-
ance, we call it a proportioned size, and apjjly
one-half of the shoulder measure from A to B,
for front of arm scye line, as shown in Diagram
A.
But as soon as the back balance is more than
the front balance (as the case will be in stooping-
forms,) then whatever the amount may be which
the back balance is more than front, we add the
amount to one-half of shoulder measure, and
apply it from A to B, for front of arm scj^e line.
This is fully illustrated in Diagram C.
Then we take the reverse side, where the back
balance runs more than one inch below the front
balance (as the case will be in erect forms). In
all such cases we deduct the amount which is
less than one inch, from the one-half shoulder
measure, and whatever is left of the one-half
11
vide a covering, the principal part of drafting
is
for all alike.
This one exception is, as we have alluded to
in the commencement of the draft, by applying
one-half of shoulder measure from A
to B, or
front ofarm scye line, and will be fully explain-
ed on this page, bearing title "The Shoulder
Measure in connection with Front and Back Bal-
ance."
fflEASUI^E,
shoulder we apply from A to B, and draw the
front of arm scye line by this point.
To show this more plainly, we suppose the
—
front balance will call for 20|- inches the back
balance 19 inches. Here we have ^ inch which
we must deduct from the shoulder measure.
23 inches, one-half of which would be 11^ inches.
Now deduct the ^ inch from this, and we have
11 inches, which we apply from A to B.
This is also illustrated in Diagram D, (see
measurement)—front balance 23| inches back —
balance 22 inches. Here we have | inch which
we must deduct from the shoulder measure. Now
take one-half shoulder measure, 14^ inches de- ;
duct f inch from this and we have 13|- inches,
which we apply fro7n A to B, as sliown in the
draft of Diagram D.
This includes all cases, no matter what the dif-
ference may be between front and back balance,
and which may exist in one way or the other,
and by doing so, the front of arm scye line will be
established according to the form of the body
which we have measured and di-afted for; and
the shoulder measure will be brought in liarniony
with front and back balance.
Now, should any Cutter wish to know the rea-
son for so doing, I will state it to him. In the
first case above mentioned, (stooping), the dis-
tance from D to bottom of arm scye is less than
the proportioned size, and consequently the dif-
ference of shoulder measure is made up from L
to B, or front of arm scye.
In the second case, (erect), the distance from D
to bottom of arm scye is more than the projpor-
tioned size, and L to B must be Jiist so much less.
This point B, or front of arm scye line, is of
great importance in coat cutting, and therefore
we show its effect more fiillv in the next article.
12 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

AND THE EFFECT WHICH I« HAS IF NOT PROPERLY LOCATED.

The proi)er and definite location of B line, or coat will be too full in the back and under the
front of arm scye, is one of the most important arm, while it will be too narrow in front of breast,
points in coat cntting, and therefoiv well wortliy because the fullness in back, or extra amount of
of study and consideration. cloth, which lirings the fullness, is needed in
AVe can say with safety, and witliont hesita- front of lu'east.
tion, that in nine cases ont of ten which the Cnt-
In the second case, (stooi^ing form), the coat
ter mnst call misfits, the foundation to these was
will be too tight in l>ack to front of arm ^cye,
laid (and can be traced back to this point) by
misplacing B, or front of ai'm scye line.
—
and too full in front of lireast, because the full-
ness in front of breast is needed in back. But in
To i^rove this, we take the projiortioned size of
this case the Cutter will find more than being
—
a 36 inch breast, and in this we have the follow-
tight in ])ack. He finds a big wrinkle from centre
ing measures From centre of back to front of
:

of back below the shoulder blades, extending

arm scye llf inches, and from this i>oint to cen-
across the side body to front of arm scye, thence
tre of breast 9 inches.
up to front shoulder point. The aiin scye is too
Now, take for instance the so called erect fann
snudl. Every movement the customer makes
with the same breast measure, 30 inches :— and,
shows only too plainly that it is a spoiled gar-
when measured, we find the distance from centi'e
ment, which can never he made to give entire sat-
of back to front of arm scye, or B line, (say lOf
isfaction to the customer, nor to the Cutter. For
inches), and from this point to centre of breast
him it is an eyesore, which he will try to get rid of
10 inches. Nt)W what do these measures say, or
if possible and therefore, the next thing he will
Bring B line one
;

indicate; It is simply this :

do is, he goes to work to cut the front of arm

inch more towards the back than in the propor-
scye out and give more room to the wearer. But
tioned size, and we have this line according to
when tlie coat is finished and tried on, he will find
the form of the body, and also the actual amount
a worse fit than befoi'e.
of breast from B to A^, or centre of breast, which
the form does need.
The question may arise, why sliould tliis be aoi
This is now one side by which we have shown
and we answer because, when the front of ann
:

scye was cut, all the points on toj) of front shoul-

our point. Then take the stooping form, witli
the same breast measure, 36 inches, and when
measiired we find the distance from centre of back
to front of arm scye (say 12| inches,) and from
this point to centre of breast (say 8 inches.)
Diagram C.) Now this shows the reverse side
from the so-called erect form
and shall we ;
der were changed also and consequently the
— whole coat is thrown out of balance. It wdll
make the coat somewhat easier by the operation,
but it will draw more wrinkles iip in front. Then
(See
comes wadding in play, and all these points
where the wrinkles are will be stuffed out, and

meet the recpiirements of the form, B line must by the time the job is completed a hard day's
be drawn one inch further out from the regidar
work is done and gone, and the pay for all this
propoi'tioned size, and by so doing we have the
troulile and laboi' is —
a l)ad-litting coat.

correct width from centi'e of back to fi'ont of arm A\'e therefore say, before the Ciitter can expect
scye, and also the correct width of breast. a gootl and easy-fitting coat, it isnecessary for
Sujijtosing now, tlie Cutter uses the so-ca)U'd him to locate front of Arm Scye, or B line, in
Division or lireast Measure System, which places lianiioiiywith the figure for which he is called
f of breast, from centi'e of back to front of arm upon to provide a covering.
scye, no matter what form the customer may In this System we acconqilish the good result
have, erect or stoojung, it gives tlie amount for by applying the Shoulder Measure in harmony
each one alike. And what will be the result i with Front and Back Balance, in the manner as
III the first case aliove statetl, (erect form,") the above stated.
PLATE, IV
 — — •

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 13

PLATE IV.
Diagram C.

SHOWING THE DRAFT FOR THE ROUKI) SHOULDER STRUCTURES.

In this Diagram we intend to prove onr ar-
gument in regard to B line, or front of Arm Scye.
The breast measure is the same as in Diagram A,
—
36 inclies and the slioulder measure only \ inch
more tlian in the first draft. But, as we will find,
when the draft is made, tlie distance from A toB
is 13 inches, which is equal to a 39 inch breast,
and from B line to \ only 8 inclies, eqiuil to a
,
32 incli breast.
Now, all these changes the uieasures will bring
for themselves, without any guesswork whatever.
sweep and mark made by \ inch out to I--mark
one-fourth of A and B from D to K, 3^ inches.
Apply one-half of arm depth, 13i inches, from K
—
to 3, make a sweep then the same amount from
H, top of back, to 3, and make a sweep also.
Bring square on centre line as at L, let long arm
rest on crossing of sweep lines at 3, and down a
line from L, through sweep, to V. Mark one-
third of A and B, 4| inches, from line B to J—
—
from J to C, I inch square up from C to S.
Bring ruler on crossing of B and L lines, let it
rest on top of back at H, and mark for N. Square

The measurements, we suppose, are as follows :

out from P through N to M—
draw a line from M
7 inches Point of shoulder measure. —
to K mark width of back pitch as at 1 and 2

1!) " Waist length. mark from H to I, one-half of B and C, 2* inches

20^ " Back Balance. — the same amount from D to G, and square out
" Front Balance. to U. Mark Q one fourth of L and M.
19i
311 u Sleeve Length. Next apply length of waist measure from H to
27 " Arm depth measure. W— —
square out to X mark in from A, (say \
inch), and shape the back line from H, through
24 " Shoulder measure.
8:^ '' Back waist measure. mark, to bottom, as shown in Diagram. Maik
304^ " Shoulder regulator measure. —
width of back, from A to 4 mark | inch above I
36 Breast measure.
for spring of back. Having all these points, then
—
' '

34 " Waist measure. —

shape the back from H to I from I to 2 from 2
to 1, and from 1 through 4, to bottom of back
THE DRAFT. sweep by 1, from bottom of inside line of back,
Draw line O to —
square out from A to Y. out to 6.
Take one-half shoulder measure, 12 inches.
of Now bring one-third of B and C, or 1| inches,
Now notice front and back balance Here we :

from B to R. Having this point, then apply

find one inch more back length than front add ; —
this 1 inch to one-half of shoulder measure, and
THE ^HOITLDER RECJlIiATOR.
bring the amount, 13 inches, from A to B. (See Measure from R to top of liack shoulder seam
at line C (say 141 inches). Bring the amount on
"The Shoulder Measure in connection with
R, and measure to S, full length of measure, 30|^
Front and Back Balance." )

inches, and make a sweep out from S, as shown

Now sqiuire up from B to D, and we liave the
front of arm scye line, according to the form of
in Diagram A. Now cut the back out, and tinisli
the body. the front shoulder, as shown in Diagram B.
Mark from B to D, front l)alance, V^\ inches Also shape the upper arm scye to Q, to 3.
—
square out from D to K mark from A to E, back Next, place the back to iioint of side body —
Avaist measure, 8i inclies —
draw line from B to F fasten it with a pin. Apply the shoulder mea-
— measure from E to B, 4| inches divide this in;
sure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye
six equal parts, and bring one-part, f inch, from to 3, then to centre of back (7 inches below H), full
B to F. measure, 24 inches, and allow | inch more for
Nowapi)ly back balance, 2();V inches from F to seams. Now draw a line along side of back from
H, and make a short sweep out to top of back 1 to line L--bring the pin down to L. Apply
then mark one-half of the amount, which the back waist measure, and \\ inch more, from B to
back balance is more than front balance, (or \ —
A draw a line from L to bottom of inside seam
inch in this case) from centre line out to H, by of back, and then shape the side body by these
which we form the top of back, as in Diagram. lines, as shown in Diagram B. Next draw bot-
Bring the square on H, and draw a line through tom line of side body, as before shown— draw a
 ' ' —

14 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

line under the arm for width of side body as at 7
—from 7 to 8, mark \ inch, which we have allow-
ed, from B to A, and shape the front i^art through
8, as shown in Diagram. Ax^ply the breast mea-
sure from L to T (as Diagram B)— from T to V, 2^
inches. Square up from T to U from U to Z,
one-sixth of breast and \ inch more G to Z2,
one-half the amount — draw a line by these points
— also from U to V. Shape the neck gorge.
Next apply the waist measure bi'ing the back
waist measure, %\ inches, on B, and mark oiit
one-half waist, 17 inches, and allow i inch for
making up. Having this, then shape the front
line for aDouble Breasted Coat. Also draw bot-
tom line of front part, and linish all the rest as
shown in Diagram.
Measure upper arm v~v\i' from N to Q then —
from Q, around the lower arm scye to N aTso —
— from K. to Q. and note the amount for draft of
— sleeve.
The Diagram also shows the Single Breasted
Cutaway Coat, to button iip high. Measure out
— —
from V one inch at top \\ inches and shape —
the front down by these points.
The explanation of Skirt will be found on Plate
YII.— Diaurani 11.

PLATE V.
Diagram D.
SHOWING THE DRAFT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE.
The reason for giving this large size of Diagram — deduct this, and it gives us 13.|^ inches, which
to show how easy it is to draft a pattern
is, first,
we apply from A to B, and the front of arm scye
for this class of men by this System and, sec- ;
l^oint is established. Now square up from B
ond, to show the application of the Shonlder mark B D, front balance, 23f inches square
to —
Measure in reverse to Diagram C. —
out to K A to E, back Avaist, 9 inches divide —
The measurement will show, that we have the the distance from E to B in six parts, and bring
so-called "erect" form of the human body be- one-sixth, f inch, from B to F F to H, back —
—
fore us and wdien the draft is finished it will balance, 22 inches, add one seam. Square out to
show that the length of back, from L to H, is If inch I. Bring one-fourth of A and B from D to K,
less than the regular size of breast measure —from 3f inches. Now apply one-half of arm depth
centre of back to front of arm scye If inch less measure, 16J inches, from K to 3, and make a
than the regular size of breast, or, in other —
sweep line then the same amount from H to 3, and
words, for a l)reast measure of 41 inches and — make a sweep also. Place the square on centre
consequently the distance from front of arm scye of back and draw a line from L, through sweep
to A" is just the same amount more. at to Now
bring one-third of
in front. A
3, A",

The measure we suppose as follows :

and B, from B line to A\ inches from J to C
J, —
f inch, and square up to S. Bring the ruler on
7| inches Point of shouldci' measure. crossing of B L lines let it rest on H, and mark
;

21 " Waist length •'

N— square out from P, through to draw a N M—
22 " Back balance " line from to M K— H
to I one-half of B and C
28J " Front balance " the same amount fi'om D to G square out to U —
:30 " Sleeve length —mark width of and 2. Then apply
back as 1
8;}
'
Arm depth '
waist length fnnii 11 to AV square oiit to X. —
28i " Shoulder " Finish the centre line of back from H to AA"" —
" mark width from A to 4 give f inch above I,
9 ''

"
Back waist
"
—
'f>\\ Shoulder regulaoi' for spring of back. Now commence and shape
46 "
"
Breast the back from H to I from I to 2—2 to 1, and —
50 AVaist from 1 down through 4, to bottom. Bring the
Tin: DKAIT. tape on I, and sweep out to 6. Take one-third
of B and C, J.^ inches, and. l)ring this from B to
Draw line () Id (). Squni-c out IVdui .\ to V.
R— apply
Take one-half of slioulder measure, I-lj inches.
Now front and back balance
noti(^e Here we :
Tin: SII01LI>I:K KEt^lIiATOR.
lind the back balance 1| inch less than front l^'roMi R to top of back shoulder seam at lineO,
balance, and consequently we have | inch, which (say \h\ inches), bring the amount, whatever it
we must deduct from one-half shoulder measure may l)e, on R, and then full measure, 34i inches,
PLATE, V
PLATE VI

if K
 —

THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 15

up to S, and make a sweep, as shown in Diagram. L, (as in Diagram B) to T — from T to V, 2^ inches

Now exit the back out. —square up from T to U—from to * the differ-
II

Next, finish the front shoulder as in Diagram B. ence between breast and waist measure, 2 inches,
Also draw upijerarm scye to Q, to 3. Then bring and from this point draw a line to V— U to Z,
the back on side body let line 1 meet place a
; ;
one-sixth of breast and ^ inch more — G to Z 2,
pin at this point. Now apply the shoulder mea- one-half of the amount, and draw line out by
sure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye these marks. Next api^ly the waist measiire
to 3, and then to centre line of back, (7| inches bring back waist, 9 inches, on B, and mark out
below H), full measure, 28| inches, and allowed f to Y, one-half waist, 25 inches.
inch more for seams. Then draw a line from 1 to Now commence and shape the neck gorge — then
L place the pin at L, shove the back in on bot-
;
draw a line from neck point down to V to Y, to
—
tom mark in from B, 1^ inch more than back X, as shown in Diagram. Then from bottom of
waist measure, lOJ inches, to A, and draw a line sidebody out to front, for bottom line of front
from L to bottom of back. Now finish the side part,and all the rest as shown in Diagram A and
body as shoAvn in —
Diagram B draw bottom line B, and the draft is finished.
—
from 6 to 9, also side body line through 7 from —
7 to 8, ^ inch, and draw a line from L, through 8 (Draft of Collar, see Explanation,
to bottom. Next apply the breast measure from page 18).

THE SLEEVE SYSTEM,

Plate VI,
Before we show the draft of Sleeve, I must re- now the cori'ect point which will bring the light
mind the Cutter of these three measures which we length of sleeve head.
have taken from the j^attern of Diagram B. Now place the tape on F, make this point a
The first one is the Upper Arm Scye, as from pivot, let crayon rest on A, and make a sweep
—
N to Q, 9 inches the second one is the Lower line from A to G. Having
this, then shape the
Arm Scye, as from Q to N, 7| inches —the third front sleeve head from centre of A and B lines to
one is from K to Q, llf inches. D, striking front line one seam above B line as
Now, as these measures are directly applied to shown in Diagram.
the draft of Sleeve, it is therefore very important Next apply the measure for sleeve length,
that they should be taken Avith utmost care, and which we find in Diagram A, 31^ inches. Now
as nearly as possil)le correct. the measure we have taken from K to Q is llf
DIAGISAM E. inches. Bring the amount on line B, in front of
sleeve, and mark off \ inch more than full mea-
Draw —
a line from A to O, square out to 11.
sure to L, 31| inches. The Cutter will find that
Now take the back of Diagram A and mark the
the allowance which we have made for seams is
distance of L and P lines (3^ inches) from to A
i inch \ inchabove line B, and \ inch at L.
B. Square out from B to D. Now take the up-
l^er arm scye measure, 9 inches, and bring the
Now mark B and D bring angle
I in centre of —
of square on L, let long arm of square rest on I,
amount in a direct line from A to D, and make a
and in that position draw a line from L to M.
mark.
Place the angle of square on D, let arm of
Mark width of sleeve from L to M, according to
square rest on B, and draw a line down to L, and
fa.shion, (say 6 inches), —mark K in centre of D
we have the width of upper sleeve. Now take and L— square out to N—
draw front line of
the pattern of Diagram A, measure the distance
sleeve according to fashion. Mark width of
sleeve from front line to N, (say 9 inches, more
in front of arm scye from line L to Q, (f inch) and
or less.) Having this, then draw the back line
—
bring this from B to C draw a line from C to D.
t)f .sleeve from A through N
to M, as shown in
Divide the upper arm scye measure in three equal
Diagram E.
parts, and apply one-third, (3 inches) from B to
E. Place angle of square on E, let arm of square THE r.\»ER SIDE OF SLEEVE.
rest on C, and draw a line up to P, and we have Take the measure as above given for loAver arm
16 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.
scye, 7| inches —
bring the amount from D to H.
Make —
a mark and we will find a space between
H and A, of 1\ inch— take one-half, or | inch,
and mark this in from D to G, which we
make the point for front line of under side now
apply the measure, 7f inches, again from G to H,
and draw front and back line for undersleeve by
—
these points take the distance from B to C, de-
duct one seam, and bring the amount in front be-
low B line, and square across for bottom line of
under side. Having this, then shape from to
I, to bottom line, to G, making B line the length
of under side, as shown in Diagram
DIAGRAM F.
This Diagram sliows liow to cluingH the p^'out
seam of Sleeve.
Tlie drafting is in the same manner as in Dia-
gram E, and when drafted, then marlv out from
D, the amount which you decide uj^on the sleeve
seam shall come below Q on front part, (say l^
inch), bring the same amount out from L, and
draw a line down by these marks, as sliown in
^ few ^eii]arks
Nodoubt the majority of Cutters will agree on
one point when we say, that a good-fitting sleeve
is the ornament to a well-fitting coat. Yes, more
than this, we may say without hesitation, it is
the finishing touch of heauty and elegance to the
garment while, on the other hand, a well-fitting
;
coat body containing a bad-fitting sleeve is an
eye-sore to the intelligent Cutter.
But while the majority of Cutters agree on this
very important point, it is nevertheless a well
known fact tluit the sleeve does not receive the
attention of numy Cutters which it ought to have
and should have.
Now some may say, Why should this be so,
and what reason have you for this We answer,
'.
l^ecause it is sim])]y for this reason that some
Cutters look upon the sleeve as a matter of trifle
and insigniH(-ance. Yes, some have formcMl an
idea, tluit almost any tiling in the shape of a sleeve
will do, so long as it hiis the right length, and
widlh of arm scye.
But tiiis is the greatest en-or any Cutter can
—
ever make and no doubt some of this class of
(Jutteis have already paid very dearly for it.
well known fact, that Cutters in geneVal
It is a.
make the coat body their principal study, espe-
ciallyif they have the misfortune of using a .sys-
tem wliich gives too much cinth in one place, oi'
wiinkling to another -in all sncli cases tliev will
Diagram F. Now, whatever the amount may be
which we have marked out from D and L, bring
the same amount in from G and L, and draw your
line for underside by these points.
— But when the seam is placed outside of D and
L, be careful and have the goods stretched, on the
outside of D L, so that it will lay over smoothly
on upper sleeve.
l;;g°°The Cutter will remember, that we have
given two measurements, in the Exjilauation of
H Measurement, by wdiich we may obtain the sleeve
length. The first measure is as w^e have applied
E.
in the draft of Diagram E. The second measure,
as we have stated in the measurement of sleeve,
isfrom C3ntre of back to elbow, and then to the
hand, or full length of sleeve.
Now, those who wish adopt this plan apply
to
the measure as follows Measure the width of
:
back, from P to N, or C line bring the amount—
on A, top of sleeve; and from A, extend the tape
to N, to M, full length of measure, and allow \
inch more for seams. All tlie rest is as shown in
Diagrams E and F.
oi] Sleeve 6uttii]i>\
try very remedy the evil and avoid the
hard to
bad consequences. But very few of them will
give their study and attention to the sleeve, or
even the thought enter their mind that the
let
sleevemight have something to do with the full-
ness and wrinkling of the coat body. Neverthe-
less, it is true that in the majority of cases
where the cutter finds this trouble, the sleeve is
the very thing that produces it.
Now, to i:)rove our point and argument, we
take for instance, the cutter who has taken up
the fashion of trying on the gannent before it is
finished, (which we must pronounce a very poor
policy). He on the coat without the sleeve,
fits
then according to his theory the sleeve will fit, if
:
only the coat body will. AVe suppose now that
lie is so fortunate as to find the coat body all
- right, it fits neatly around the arm scye, side
—
body, and waist shoulders are nice and square
— and it is jiionounced perfect fitting. Thecoat
is then finished, and when tried on again, lo!
what a change there is in the coat which the ar-
tist has pronounced perfect fitting. Thesliould-
eis, which were so nice and square belVne, hang
—
down now fiat as a leaf the side body whicli
were nic(> and smooth before, has now a surplus
amount of loose cloth extending across the liack.
The arm scye in front, which was smootli before,
he finds now a big wrinkle. Now then, Mr. Ar-
PLATE, VII
 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 17

tist, what is tli3 cau?3 of all these changes ? And will show you the amount which the sleeve head
the answer will be, it is sjioiled by the journey- has to be lengthened to fit in the arm scye and —
man tailor. Now, we admit that the journejanan by so doing it will prove that the coat body is
may have done his share, in not sewing in the all right, but the sleeve is not.
sleeve asit ought to be —
but still, there must be
Now I claim tliat my Sleeve System which is
some other cause that has brought all these
herein given and explained will, produce a well
—
changes and this cause, we say is the sleeve,
fitting sleeve every time, providing the measiires
which does not fit in the arm scye. The sleeve
are taken correct, and the drafting is made ac-
head is too short, and drags the shoulder down
cording to the instruction therein given. It will
and produces the fullness and wrinkling under
fit the arm scye without dragging on the shoul-
the arm. And if the Cutter has any doubt that
der. It will produce the sleeve according to the
this be the case when caught
in this dilemma,
form or hang of arm. And furthermore, I claim
just rip out the top sleeve,from back to front
that it is the most simple and time saving sys-
seam, and this will show you that the shoulder
tem on sleeve cutting in existence; any cutter of
will raise up in the same position as they Avere
common talent can draft out a good fitting sleeve
when fitted on first, and by this, all the loose
in less than one minute.
clotli will be taken away and furthermore, it—

THE SKIRT SYSTEM,

PLATE VII.
Tlie Skirt is also a very important part of the by which, if located according to the plan as

coat, which, when

good shape and in good
in herein shown, will give in all cases, the correct
hanging position, will add beauty and elegance spring in back of plait. It is simple in the way
to the garment. It is therefore more worthy of of drafting, and reliable in all its various points
study than it generally receives. — because the most of these points are taken from
My Skirt System has the most reliable points the body and applied to the draft.

Diagram G,
SHOWING THE SKIRT FOR A DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT.
Draw a line in front, as from A to B — A to C line, as at 5, and in that i^osition draw a line from
9 inches in all cases. Square in from C to D. 6 to 10; then, whatever the space may be between
Now to locate point D : we must saj', this point 9 and (say 1^ inch in this case,) bring the a-
10,
isgoverned by the fashion, and should be made mount from dark line (or actual waist line of skirt)
accordingly, if the Skirts are worn very full, the from G to H, and make a * and we have the
;

amount must be more, and so mce versa. point which will give the correct spring in back
For a medium full skirt, we mark in from C to of skirt.
D, one inch in all sizes. Bring the angle of square on x^oint P, let arm
Bring angle of square on A, let short arm rest reston * H, and draw a line from F to K. Mark
on D, and draw a line on top, as from A to E. down from F to I, one-half breast, 18 inches in
Now measure the bottom of front, side body and this case.
lapel, add 1 inch more for fullness, and bring Now i^lace the side body in a joining position
the amount from A to F. Having this, then with top of skirt, as from F to G, and draw a
shape the top of skirt as shown by dark line, and curved line in harmony with side body from F
as near as possible to the form of front part, as —
through I to K, also draw a corresponding line
shown in Diagram A. Next measure the width for the plait.
of side body at bottom, bring the amount from F Having this, then finish the bottom line meas- —
to G— square down to H. ure from F to K, length of back skirt, and allow
Now to find * H, we must place the square on —
^ inch more in centre of skirt mark | inch more
side body, as shown in Diagram A, as follows : than back skirt, and in front as from A to B,
bring angle of square on lower point of side body length of back skirt, and finish the bottom b\'
as to 6, let arm rest on edi!,'e of side seam at A these points as shown in Diagram G.
 —— —
—

18 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

jram H.
SHOWING THE DRAFT OF SKIRT FOR A CUTAWAY FROCK COAT.
Draw line from A to B—bring the width of let arm rest on * F, and draw a line from C to D
front and side body at waist seam, from A to C bring the side body on top of skirt as before
next draw top line as shown in Diagr.or to fancy. stated, and draw a curved line from C down —also
Mark width of side body from C to E square by — draw a corresponding line for the plait. Mark
A B line from E to F, and extend the line up to length of back skirt from C to D also in front. —
top of waist line. Now bring the square on side Now bring the front part in a joining position
body as before stated, and as shown in Diagram with top of skirt, and shapa the front of skirt
A. Measure from 9 to 10, (say IJ inches in this down to Gf. Next draw the bottom line from D
case) and apply this from top line of skirt to * F. to G, and finisli the whole as shown in Diagram H,
Having this, then place the angle of square on C, and according to fancy or fashion.

Diagram I,

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A DRESS COAT SKIRT

The Dress Coat Skirt is drafted in the same whatever the amount may be, bring this out on
manner as shown in Diagram H, Avith only one bottom of skirt.
Having this jioint, then draw a gentle curved
exception, and this is, draw top line in front one-
linefrom inside line of back to mark made at
half inch below A, as shown in Diagram; all the
—
bottom also for plait of skirt and finish the —
rest is as before stated. rest according to fashion or fancy.
Now when we have all these points, then meas- TJie Draft of Collar.
ure out from C to H, | of breast, (more or less), The Collar, as shown in Diagram D, is drafted
according to fashion. Also from D to I, i of as follows Bring the ruler on front shoulder
:

breast, or fashion. Next mark width of straps point let it rest on point to which the coat shall
;

or belts, at H, (say If inches) at A, (say 1^ inch) roll in front, and draw a line from down, as
Then draw a line from H
to I. Having this, then —
shown by dotted lines then bring the width of
commence and finish the skirt by these points as back from shoulder point to 3. From O line
shown in Diagram, and according to the fashion mark down to 3, (say finch), and draw a line from
of the day. this mark to the shoulder point for crease of col-
The Draff of Baek Skirt. lar —by this line square uj) to 2, and also to 1.

The Back Skirt we draft direct to the clotii. Mark standing collar, as from 3 tol, 1\ inches
I)raw a line on edge of the cloth, full length of from 3 to 2, (say 1^ inches), or fashion, and shape
coat — —
mark off length of waist from that point the rest as shown in Diagram, and according to
mark If inches to W, (Diagr. A). Now place the the fashion of the day.
back on the cloth, let H rest on edge, and AY on If Collars which are intended for a short roll, as in
inches. Then extend bottom line of waist to the single breasted coat. Diagram C, the point —
—
the cloth let the back remain in its position, and from to 8 nuiy be made one inch, and draw line
apply the measure for length of coat (say 38 by it, But if so, then have top
for crease of collar
— —
inches square out nieasui'e out on waist line, and bottom stretched from centre seam to front
from edge of cloth t<> inside scnni of back, and of crease so it will lav over smoothly.

The Draft of Body Sack,

PLATE VIII.
Sack Coats are drafted on the same plan as parts, and apply one part (or ^th)from B to F.
frock coats. 'The measurement is the same, and The reason for doing so is simply this Sack :

all the constructicm lines also. The only change t'oats need a longer back on top, and tlie one-
wliich we must make in Sack Coats is in the di- fourth provides for this otherwise it is the same
;

\ amount from E to ]>.

ision of the as shown in Frock Coats and if the drafting is —
In Frock Coats we measure from E to B, and can-ied out according to the instructions as here-
divide the amount in six equal ])arts and apply in given, a neat-litting garment will be produced,
one pait from B to F. In Sack Coats, howevei', which will give sitisfaction to br)th customer and
we musi divide llie dislaMce, E lo T>, iu four I'ipial Cutter.
 PLATE, Vm

\R
B
 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 19

The 3Iea!«iireiueiit. Now shape the back from H to I, from I to 2,

The measures which we use iu the explanation from 2 to 1, as shown in Diagram, and according
of this draft are the same as in Diagram A, with to fancy or fashion.
the exception of length of coat, as follows : Having this, then take one-third of B and C,
6^ inches Point of shoulder measure. and mark this out from B to R, and apply
30 " Length of coat.
" Back balance.
The Shoulder Megiahttor.
19i-
20| " Front balance. Measure from R, to top of shoulder seam of
3l| " Sleeve length. back at line C, bring the amount on R, and mark
26^ " Arm depth. off full measiire, 31 inches, to S, in the same
23|^ " Shoulder measure. manner as in diagram A. Sweep out from S by
7i " Back waist.
" R. Having this, then cut the back out.
31 Shoulder Regulator.
36 " Breast measure. Bring the back on top of front shoidder, and
32 " Waist measure. finish the shoulder on front part, and ujiper arm
scye as shown in Diagram B. Next, bring the
DIAGRAM J.
Drawa line from to W. Square out from A back on side seam as at 1, fasten it with a pin.
to Y. (Notice front and back balance same as in Now apply the shoulder measure from K to Q,
frock.) A
to B, one-half of shoulder measure, then around the front arm scye to centre of back,
—
llf inches square up from B B to D, front — 6i inches below H, and allow f inch for seams, as
—
balance square out from D to K to E back —A — shown in Diagram B.
waist measure. —
Then draw a line from 1 to L, mark from 5
Then measure from E to B divide this in four ;
to 6 the amount which you intend to take out
parts, and bring one part (or one-fourth) from B between back and front. Now this as the ]orac-
to F—F to H, back balance 1^^ inches, square — tical Cutter does know, depends entirely on the
—
out from H to I D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 2| shape which we like to ]produce. If the coat
inches from K to 3, one-half of arm depth 13i
;
shall fit close in back the amount must be more,
inches, make a sweep then the same amount from
;
and if it shall be more in a straight form the
H to 3, and make a sweep also. Square out from amount must be less. For a medium close fitting
L through sweep lines to front at V. Next bring body Sack, take one-fourth of E to B, in this case
one-third of A and B, from B line to J J to C, f — one inch. Having this, then shafie the lower
inche in all cases. Square up from C to S take — arm scye by the back, from 1 to 3, and draw side
one-half of B and C, add one seam, and bring this line of front from 1 through 6 to X as shown in
from H to I, 2| inches then the same amount ;
Diagram. Bat here we must caution the Cutter:
—
from D to G square out to U place the ruler on — do not bring thej)oint of side body below line 1, or
crossing of B, L, H, and mark for N square out — point of side line on back, otherwise the back will
from P through N, to M; draw aline fromM to K. be shortened on top. Always leave sjjace for one
The next point we now establish is the width seam between arm scye and side line at this j)oint.
of back, or shoulder seam, as at 2. Now here I Now as we have finished all these points, then
must say, this is a matter of fancy, where most of apply the Breast Measure, as in Diagram B, from
Cutters follow their own taste, and which the — —
L to T square up to U from T to V 2^ inches,
fashion will change also. Therefore I will give a make a mark. Next bring the Back Waist
guide only, which I find in general practice, measure 7^ inches, on B, and mark out one-half
brings this point about right. Measure the dis- of waist measure, 16 inches to Y.
tance from L to P lines, and apply one-half from Next place the ruler on U and Y and draw a
N or P line, to 2, and square out. Mark out on line to Z, which we make the point for collar.
this line pitch of back, (say f inch, more or less). Then mark from U to Z one-sixth of breast and
Having this, then apply the measure for length —
^ inch more bring one-half of the amount from
of coat, from H
square out from
to W to ;
W Gr to Z 2 and draw a line out.

front. Next decide on point 1, or in other words, Mark out from V. (say 1 inch, more or less,)
where you wish to locate the side line of —
according to the style of front then shape the
back make a mark; Also mark width of back
;
neck, and draw a line down in front according
at bottom, as from W
to X, to fancy, (say 6 to fancy or fashion, and finish all the rest as
inches) having these points, then draw a line
;
shown in Diagram.
from 1 to X, for side seam of back, according to —
Next mark Q, one-fourth of L and M measure
fancy or fashion. Mark in from to 4, hollow A upper and lower arm scye also from K to Q, as
;

of back, (say | inch, more or less), and draw shown in frock coat, and draft the sleeve by these
centre of back from P, through 4 to bottom. measures as in Diagr. E, and the draft is finished.
 — —

20 THE GUTTER AND GUIDE.

loUBLE AND |lNGLE-§REASTED |ACK

iVT ^iVER mOATS.
PI.ATE IX.

Tl]e Sack Overcoat. —

line square out from P, through to N
draw M—
Sack OverCoats, as shown in this Diagiani, are
a line from K to M—
Jf to 2, (say one-half of L and

drafted in the same manner as body saclvs, and

P), more or less —
H to I, one-half of B and C, and
as sho^ni in Diagram J, with only one exception.
—
one seam D to G, same amount square out to —
By looking over the Diagram we find all the
U—H —
to W, length of coat sqiiare out to front

points and letters as in Body Sack. But after

—A to 4, (say J inch,) —W
to X, width of back,

all, there is one point to which your attention

—
(say Q^ inches, more or less) line 1, to fashion

must be drawn, and this is from X to 7. or fancy. Now finish the back, from to I, H
In Body Sacks we draw the side line of front
from I to 2 —from 2 to 1, and from 1 through 5
part to X, or back.
to —
X then finish the centre of back as shown
in Diagram, and according to fashion.
The Over Coat, however, needs more fullness
Bring one-third of B and C, from B to R.
at bottom, and therefore we mnst change this
Then apply
point according to the length of coat, and also
according to the fullness which the fashion may The Nhouldcr Regulator.
call for. Measui'e from R to top of Back Shoulder at
In regard to the measiirenient of Sack and line C, bring the amount on R, and luark up to
Frock Over Coats The measures shonld be ta-
: S full length of measure, 32 inches, and make a
ken over the nnder or body coat, in the same sweep from S out, same as in Diagram A. Now
manner as we have explained in the measurement cut the back out. Bring the back on top of front
over the vest. By taking the measurement over shoulder and finish the same as in Diagram B,
the undercoat we will have the exact amount to draw a line for upper arm scye to Q to 3. Then
draft from, without making any allowances what- bring the back to side seam let line 1, meet, fasten
ever, exceptrin those places Avhere we allow for —
the back with a pin apply the shoulder measure
seams and making up. I find this the easiest and from K to Q, then around the arm scye to 3, then
surest way of measuring and drafting the Over to centre seam of back 6f inch below H, and allow
Coats. —
I inch for seams draw a line from 1, to line L,
The Mcjisurcment, mark from 5 to 6, (say one-fourth of E and B,
We suppose, as follows : more or less). Now mark spring at bottom, as
6| inches Point of shoulder measure. from X to 7 — (say 2^ inches). Then draw the
42 •' Length of Coat. side seam of front from 1 to L through 6 to 7 as
" Back balance.
20 shown in Diagram — shape the lower arm scye as
21 " Front balance.
" in Diagram J.
:}2 Sleeve length.
28 " Arm deptli. Next apply the breast measure, from L to T, as
24| " Shoulder measure. before shown. Square up from T to U T to V, —
2t1- inches — mark from U to Z, one-sixth of breast,
8 " Back waist measure.
"
32
38 "
Shoulder Regulator measure.
Breast measure.
—
and ^ inch more one-half the amount from G
" to Z 2. and draw line out.
33^ Waist
Next, apjjly the waist measure. Bring back
DIAGEAM K. waist on B, and mark out waist measure, and 1
Diaw a line from O to W— squai-i^ out fi'om A inch more to Y. Bring the ruler on U and Y, and
to y. (Notice front and back balance.) Now draw a which we make the point for
line to Z,
bring one-half of shoulder measure, 12f inches, collar. Now mark out from Y, for a Single-
from A to B—
square up from B—
B to D, front Breasted Coat (say 1\ inches), the same amount
— —
balance A to E, back waist^ B to F, one-fourth from Y. Having this, then shape the neck to Z
of E and B—P to H, back balance— D to K, one- from Z, shape the lapel according to the fashion
foui'th of A and 13— K
to 3, one-half arm depth, of the day, and from this point draw the front line
make a sweej) —Hto 3, same amount make a sweej) through mark at "\', and Y, to bottom. Also shape
also. Square out frcmi L, through sweep to front the bottom line, and all the rest as shown in Dia-
B line to J, one-third of A B
and — J to C, | inch. gram K..
Square up from C to S ;
mark N by 11, and L B This Diagram also shows the Double-Breasted
PLATE, IX
PLATE, X
 — —

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 21

Coat. Mark out from Y, to front, (say 3 inches,
more or less), the same amount from Y. to front,
and draw the front line by these marks. Then
measure in from Y, \ inch less than we have marked
outside, also the same amount from Y, in, and
draw a line for the Buttons.
Tl^e Brock Overcoat.
Tliisstvle of coat-; isdraftf^d in the saiu':'
as shown in Diagrams A, and B, without any
change whatever, except the measurement, wliich
should be taken over the body coat.
The one-fourth of E, and B, which we have ap-
plied inDiagram K, from B, to F, is in Sack Coats
only. Bear this in mind, and no alteration will be
manner needed.

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE IXVERXE SfS

PLATE t'APE,
X,
WITH OR WnilOlT i^IEEYES.
AND ALSO
HOW TO PRODUCE THE THREE'-QITARTER CIRCLE OR CAPE.
This style of Over Coats, known as the Inverness Now take one-fourth of A and C, or 3 inclic^
Cape, have been in demand for quite a number of —
and apply this, from O to I then from D to J
years, and although the fashion has drawn the also from D to K. Square these lines as shown in-
garment out of style, it is still worn by some, and Diagram. Then mark from J to G, one-sixth of
will be so for some time to come, because it is the breast, which is the same amount, in this case, as
most comfortable garment for traveling purposes —
from D to J, 3 inches square out to Z. Having
ever gotten up. this, then mark F, in centre of O and D —
square
Now this style of Over Coats are generally —
F line down then E. in centre of D and F, and
drafted by graduated scales, and the result, no make a mark.
doubt, some have experienced. We
find that all Now bring the tape measure on B, and mark
patterns drafted by scales will be above 38 breast, the back balance, 20 inches, uj) to 1 at F line.
'•'

a number of sizes too large for the breast for which Next apply the Arm-depth Measure take one- —
they are intended. The only way to overcome the half of the measure, 14 inches, and apply this from
difficulty is to draft out the pattern by actual K, down to centre of B and C lines, and make a
measurement, and in the same manner as we do in —
sweep then apply the same amount from * 1 at F
Fkock and Sack Coats. line to centre of B and C, and make a sweep also,
The Measureiiieiif. as shown in Frock Coat Diagram A.
This is the same as in frock and sack coats, and Now bring the square on centime line of back and
should be taken over the under coat, except breast draw a line out from L, through sweep lines to
and waist, which should be taken over the vest in —
front mark M, one-fourth of breast (or 4|- inches
this style of coats. in this case) from line L, and square in to 2.
We suppose now that the measures are as fol- Having this, then measure the space between C
lows : and P lines and mark * in centre at A line, {\\
44 Inches Length of Coat. inches from C,)^place the tape on this * and mark
20 " Back balance. up back balance, 20 inches, to H, and we have the
21 " Front "
correct length of Back.
32 " Sleeve length.
31 " Cape " Now square out from H, to I —from this line
"
28
"
Arm depth measure. mark up on I, f inch, for spring of back jilace —
24 Shoulder the ruler on mark made by | inch, and draw a line
"
31^
18 "
Shoulder Regulator measure.
Neck measure.
—
down to N then apply the measure for full length
36 " Breast
—
of coat bring the tape on H, let it run down on
33 " Waist " centre line and mark off 44 inches— from this mark
The Draft of Diagram L. up to W, one inch, and square out to X.
Draw a line in centre of back as from to W Having this, then bring the ruler on E, let it
square out from O to Y—
from O to A, front bal- rest on the crossing of C M lines, and draw a
ance, 21 inches— square out from A to front line— line down to bottom of coat, as at 5. Now bring
|^~ now from A to C, one-half of shoulder measure, the ruler on 2, let it rest on crossing of A, and E^
-: 12 inches, square C, line up to top—from C to B, lines, as at 3, and draw a line from 2, to 4. Then
one-half of A and inches— square B line up
C, six shape the back from H to I, from I to 2, as shown
to D. The distance which we now have from A, —
in Diagram place the tape on I, at top line, let it

to B, is 18 inches. run to bottom of back, and make a sweep from AY,

 ; •

22 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

to 4. Next bring the tape on D, and make a sweep Diagram N,
from 5 to X, for bottom of front. Mark in from Showtag Draft of the so-called ^•Three-
the
Q to P, li inch, make a mark—now measure from Quart er Circle or Cape.
B to C, and bring one-third of the amount, two This style of garments is worn by military
inches, from B to R, and apply men, and also by others, over Frock and Sack
The Shoulder Regulator. Coats.
Bring the tape on R, run up to P, in a
let it
straight line, bring the amount on R again, and
The Draft.
measure up to S, at E line, full measure, 31i inches Draw a line from D to B — square out
—square S line out by line B— from S to S 2, mark from D, to K, — mark
from D to K, one-
the same amount as from Q to P, li inches, and sixth of breast, 3 inches, and draw line down
square this line in. Mark up from line M to Q, i now take the pattern of the coat, for which
inch, and draw a line to P. Having this, then the Cape is intended, place the back on top line,
finish the front part, —measure out from on top as at —
K then bring the front part to back, so tliat
line,one-half of breast, 18 inches— from this point, shoulder seam of coat will rest in a closing posi-
mark out to T, one-fourth of breast, 9 inches, and tion, front shoulder point resting on K line, back
square this line down to bot tom. Now mark from —
at top line B,D, line of coat running parallel with
T to V, li inch— T to X, at bottom 2 inches in all B, D, line of cape, and in that position draw a line
cases and —place the ruler on V and X, and
sizes in centre of back by the pattern, as from K to Y 2.
di'aw a line from to bottom.
tojj Shape the neck by the pattern as from K, to Z —
Next we commence and shape the front — from and also from Z, d(jwn in front. Having this, then
S 2 at E line we draw a gentle curved line for top —
take the pattern off mark down from D to J, 3
of front shoulder to K shown in Diagram
line, as inches in all cases, and make this point a pivot.
—from crossing of J and K, draw a line for neck Next mark length of cape from K, to U, (say 31
gorge out to Z. Then shape the arm scye, from inches). Bring the tape on point J, or pivot, and
S, at E line to M, to L, and up to P. Having this, sweep from U, to Y 2, or centre of back, as shown
then mark in from front line | inch to Z, and also in Diagi'am. Now draw a corresponding line from
the same amount in from T, wliich we make the U to front, as in Inverness Cape, and cut the pat-
point for collar. Now shape the front by Z, and tern out.
all the rest as shown in Diagram L, and cut the
—
pattern out but be careful, and notch front and
Diagram 0.
back at A line as at 3, which point must meet
Showing the Draft of Collar.
when the coat is joined. Now this corai^letes the
Draw a line from 1, to 3, — square up from 1, to
coat with sleeves.
2, — mark up from 1, to O, li inche.s, and from
Diagram L 0, to 2, (say 2 inches). Now measure the neck of
Skowi/ig the same Drafl, loUliout Sleeves. coat, 9 inches —bring 9 inches from 1, to 3, —mark
Draft the pattern as before shown with sleeves, width of Collar from 3, to 4, (say 2f inches) more
and when drafted, then mark down from L line or less— mark up in centre of 1, and 3 (say 1 inch)
to 6, one-sixth of breast, 3 inches mark centre of — — then commence and shape the Collar from 1, to
B and E line, at shoulder seam, and draw a line —
mark by 1 inch, to 3 from O, to 3 and from 2 to —
down to 6, as shown by -(-lines in Diagram. All 4, as shown in Diagram.
the rest is as before stated.

Diagram M. Draftiiig- the Sleeve.

Showing How Drc{ft the Cape for the Inver-
to —
Measure the arm scye ^bring | inch more than
ness Cape Coat. ^ of arm scye measure from S, E, line down below
Place the front part of coat on tlie i)attern paper, M, and make this the point for front sleeve seam,
and draw neck and front by the coat. Bring the (as at Q, Diagram A). Also measure from K, to
ruler on crossing of J, K, lines, let it rest in centre this mark, same as in frock or sack note the —
of S, S 2, and draw a line to Y. Next,
at C line, measures down, and draft the Sleeve in the same
bring the tape on K, measure down to U, full manner as in frock or feack coats, as shown in Dia-
length of Cape, 31 inches —now place the tape gram E, with only one exception, and this is :—
measure on J, make this point a pivot, and sweep Measure the distance from M, to point of front
from U to Y, and draw a corresponding line from Sleeve seam, on front part, and whatever the
U, to front, by a curved ruler, and finish all tlie amount may be, apply this in the di-aft of Sleeve,
rest as shov/n in Diagram. as from A, to B, Diagram E.
 — —

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 23

THE PATTERN SYSTEM.

The System, as herein laid down, will be found "Cutting- Table of Proportions"
the most simple and reliable method of drafting
Avillbe found the principal measures for each size
patterns for the Ready-made Trade ever gotten up
of breast, which we have to apply for the various
and jjresented to the trade. The difficulty gene- points of Diagrams. The arrangement of figures
rally experienced by the Breast Measure System, in this Table are very simple, so that any Cutter
whereby all sizes above 38 breast will be too large, can use it at once. The first line of figures give
and below 35 too small for the intended breast, is the breast from 24 to 48 the second line of figures
;

herein overcome. the distance from A

B the third line the dis-
to ;
.

The principle on which the pattern system is tance from B to D

the fourth line of figures the
;

based as laid down in the Actual Measurement, distance from D to L, or bottom of arm scye the ;

and the drafting is also illustrated by the same fifth and sixth lines, the length of sleeve for each
Diagrams as therein given and explained. size of breast; and will l)e fully illustrated in the
In the annexed next draft.

Diagram A.
SHOWING DRAFT OF A 36 SIZE FROCK PATTERN.
Draw from
line O to O —square from A to Y. of breast, and bring point S so much farther down
Now apply the measures as given in the Cutting —and so nice versa. Next bring the tape on
Table, ojiposite figure 18, or Breast measure, as point 1, and sweep from bottom line of back out
follows A
From to B, 12 inches, square up to
: D —
to 6 apply i inch less than one- fourth of A and
—B to D, 20J inches, and square out to K —D to B, (2f inches), from 4 to 5— mark | inch in
L (or bottom of arm scye), 12^ inches —
square from all sizes between back and side body, at line L.
L, through mai'k to V, in front, and we have the Having this, then cut the back out and finish
principal lines for the pattern. the side body by these points, 5 and f inches, in
Now mark from D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 3 the same manner as shown in actual measurement,
inches— measure from B toK, 20| inches, and bring Diagram B. Then draw a line for width of side
this from B to H, for length of Back. Mark from body, as from line L, to 7 to 9,—mark ^ inch in
B line to J, one-third of A and B, 4 inches J to — all sizes from 7 to 8, and shape side line of front,

C, f inch in all sizes —

square up from C to g through 8 to bottom. Now finish the bottom line
applj^ one-half of B and C (2f inches), from H to of side body as shown in actual measurement,
I, also from D to G, and squaie out to U place — also the front shoulder and arm scye, as before
the ruler on crossing of L and B lines, let it rest shown in Diagram B. Mark Q one-fourth of L
on H, and mark for N. Square out from P, tlirougli and P, from line L, up—apply the breast measure
—
N to M draw a line from M to K mark width of — from L to T— square up to U— T to V, 2i inches in
back as from 1 and 2— from A to AV, one-eighth of A all sizes —square down from V to bottom mark —
and H (more or less, according to fashion) square — ^ inch out from this line to Y—
U to Z, one- sixth
out from W —
to X mark width of back from A to of breast and | inch more— G to Z 2 one-half the
4 —bring f inch above I, for spring of back. Now amount. Having this, tlien finisli the whole as
shape the back, from H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to shown in actual measurement in Diagrams A and
1, and from 1 through 4, to bottom, according to B.
fashion or fancy. Having this, then mark up from Then measure upper and lower arm scye as
L on C line, one-fourth of breast {A^ inches), and before shown, and draft the sleeve by these mea-
from that point one-eighth of breast to S bring — sures as in Diagrs. E andF. Apply the measures
the tape on M, and sweep out from S. as given in the "Cutting Table," from centre of
Now, here I must say, that wdienever the shoul- back to elbow, 20 inches, to O, or full length of
der seam of back is drawn higher up than ilh of sleeve, 32^ inches— allow \ inch for seams ;'
and
breast at line C, then deduct the Jimount from ^ square by L and I foi- bottom.
 : —

24 THE GUTTER AND GUIDE.

Diagram J.
SHOWING THE DRAFT OF SACK- COAT FATTERNS.
In giving the necessary instruction for the draft —
pitch of back (say f inch) also mark f inch for
of sack coats,we will take the 40-inch breast, and spring of back above I. Now shape the back, from
by so doing we show the working of the Catting H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to 1. Next mark full
Table more fully. length of coat from H
to W, (say 82 inches), square

The Di'aft.
out from W —
to front mark width of back from W
to X, (say 6| inches). Having this, then shape the
Draw line from O to W— square out from A to side seam of back, from 1 to X, to fancy or fashion.
Y—from A to B, 13|- inches— square up to D—from Next bring one-fourth of breast (5 inches) from
B to D, 21| inches— from D to L, Vd\ inches- —
L up on line C from this point one-eighth of
square out from L, through mark to V in fronts breast {2^ inches), to S.
D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 3^ inches. Now Now, whatever the shoulder seam of back may
measure from B to K, (22 inches), add f inch in be above the mark of ^ the breast, deduct the
dll sizes of Sack coats, and bring the full amount
amount from S, and bring this point so much
(22f inches in this case), from B to square out H— lower down. Sweep out from S, by M. Apply
to I—from B to J, one-third of A and B, (4| inches). the breast measure from L to T, square up to U
J to C, I inch— square up from C to 8. Then take —
T to V, 2^ inches square from to draw a V Y—
one-half of B and C (2J- inches), add one seam and line by U and Y, to Z —
U to Z one-sixth of breast
apply this from H to I, also from D to G, and —
and I inch more G to Z 2, one-half the amount.
square out to U. Now mark N, by H and cross- Now finish the front shoulder, arm scye, and neck,
ing of L and B—
square out from P, through N to as shown in actual measurement then shape the —
M— draw a line from to K. M
Next mark width front to fashion or fancy. Next mark from /)
of back or shoulder drop. (See explanation of to 6 (say 1\ inch), (see actual measurement), and
actual measurement). Take one-half of L and P, shape the side of front part from 1 through 6, to
(more or less), from N to 2— mark out from 2, for X, and all the rest as before shown in Diagram J.

Diagram K.
THE DRAFT OF OVER-COATS.
The Drafting in thisDiagram is the same as in bottom, therefore we must make the allowance as
Diagram J, or l)ody sack, and does not need any shown in actual measurement, from X to 7.
further explanation. Third: By drafting an Over Coat by the same
The only instructions whicli are needed we find breast as in Diagram J, 4() inches, \ve will have a
in the following points pattei-n which will Jit a man of 38 breast.
Fir at: The Over Coat does need a longer back
This shows that tlie Over Coat does need two
on top, as from L to H, than the Body Sack. The
extra allowance which we make in under sack is inches more in width than the under coat, to tit
|
inch in over sack we make the allowance, above
;
the same person. All the rest of drafting is as
B and K, ^ inch. shown in Diagram J, and as explained in actual
Second: The Over Coat needs more fullness on measurement.

Diagram L-
THE DRAFT OF 1N\KHNESS CAPE OVERCOAT.
Draw a line IVc.in () \V -sqiiaiv out from O
to mark M, one-fourth of breast from L square in —
to V— now mark (for a lu-eastj from O to A, 2(H
3(; to 2. Now mark
one-third of C and B, (2 inches)
inches. Square out from A to front—A to C, 12 from C, out, and niak(> a mark from this point —
inches, square u]) to top lino— C to B, one-half of measui'e up to Iv, (21f inches), and bring the
A and C, (\ inches, square up to D to L, |- inch D— amount from mark to H, length of back— square
more in all sizes than the amount given in the out, mark | inch al)ove this line for spring of
"Cutting Table," 13 incln\s. Now take one-fourth back— from G to S 2, one-third of G, and D.
of A and C (3 inches), and 'n-ing this from O to I, Having all these points, tlien hnish the draft liy
also from I) to ,), and liom to G, also from
,1 1) to these i)oints, as shown in actual measurement.
K — square all lliese lines— mark F, in centre of O The Cape is drafted in the same nr.umer as be
and D— E, in centre of F and I) 1) lo T, one lialf fore shown, also the Sleeve and Collai'. aii'l does
breast (!) inches) T to \'. II inch in all sizes not nciMJ (uilliei- ex[ilanaf ion.
 THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 25

fuTTING f ABLE OF f ROPORTIONS

Drafting Coat and Vest Patterns
FOE THE
READY-MADE TRADE.

Meas-

Breast

ure.

One-half
 PLATE, XI

V K
 — —

THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 27

THE VEST SYSTE

The System as herein given, is on the same plan
and will provide for all the
as the Coat System,
'oarious forms of tlie Tiuman body which the
Cutter may be called on to measure and draft for.
The Measurement is the same as exjilained in
the measurement of Coats^except that we must
add length of Collar, full length of Vest in
front, and also full length at hip —
which will he
fully shown in the measurement below, and also
in the draft of Diagram P.
Now, with these few lines of introduction and
explanation of measurement, the Author advises
all those who intend to study and practice the
neAv principles, to follow out the instructions as
herein given, and if you thus do, a trial will be
sufficient to show that the System will do all which
we liave above stated, and you will become a
hearty indorser of this valuable System.

PLATE XI,
The Measiireiiieiit. from line C, to M, —
and square up diaw a line
The measures, as we have before stated, are from L and C to K. Now, having established all
taken in the same manner as in Coats, and sup- these points, we go on and apply
pose that they are as follows for a single-breasted "The Hhonlder Regulator."
Vest : 19^ inches Back Balance. Place the tape on G, let it run up in a direct line
20i " Front Balance. —
to R, top of back shoulder seam bring the a-
20i " Armdepth. mount on B, and then up in a direct line to S,
23^ '' Shoulder measure. full length of measure, 31 inches, and make a
7|- " Back Waist measure. mark—place the rule on S, let it rest on crossing
31 " Shoulder Regulator. of J K and draw a line oiit.
lines,
14 " Length of Collar. Having all these points and lines, we then com-
26* " Full length of Vest. mence and finish the Back. Draw a line from H
231 " Full length at hip. to L, through F, to bottom, for centre of hack —
36 " Breast. then from 11 to I, or mark for spring of liack
31 " AVaist. finish the shoulder seam to R—
then from R, tin-
ish the arm scye to P, or side line of back
DIAGRAM P. and front, wliich line may be drawn to
fancy (say centre of Mand C)—mark out from G,
The Draft of a Siiigle-Breasted Test.
11 inch for seams and ease. Now commence, and
—
Draw line O, to O square out from A, to Y draw side line from P, through mark at waist, to
now notice front and back balance, same as in Z, at bottom —as shown in Diagram.
Coat. (See Explanation of Shoulder Measiire, Next Front
linish the Bring one-half of
:

page 11). Now take one-half of shoulder measure
(llf inches) and Itring this from A, to B from B,
—
to C, one inch in all sizes square up from C to D
— apply front balance from C, to D (20* inches),
and square out to U. Now apply back waist
—
measure from A to E then measure from E to B,
divide this in foiir parts, and bi-ingone part froniA
to F, (one inch). Nowapjily l)ack waist measure
again from F to (I, and make a mark. Bring the
tape measure on G, and apply back lialance 19^
inches, with \ inch added for seams, from G to H
— square out to I. Having this, then take the
distance from A to B, divide the amount in four
equal parts, and apply one part, {21 inches,) from
— —
H to I then from 1) to J also from D to K.
Now apply the arm depth measure, take one-half
(13:^ inches) and l)ring this from K to P, make a
—
sweep line then from H to P, and make a sweep
line also. Bring the square on centre line of
back, and draw a line from L through sweep at
P, to V, in the same manner as Coat Diagram A.
Having this line, then mark up from line L to N,
—
one-fourth of A and B mark | inch up from I,
breast measure from L to T—
from T to V, 2
— —
inches in all cases square up from T to U, from
U draw a line to V, by which line we form the
front line cf vests which shall button up very
high. Having this, then apply the waist measure
—bring tlie Inick waist measure on B, mark out
to Y, one-half of waist, IS^ inches, and allow for
one seam in front.
Then apply the measure for length of vest :—
take the tape, measure from D to J— place the
amount on front shoulder point, and measure to
V, length of collar, 14 inches— then to W, full
length of vest, 26* inches, and allow for seams-
then to X, lengtlfof hip, 23^ inches, and allow
for seams also" Having all these points, then
shape the front— draw a line from V, through Y,
to bottom, also a corresponding line for lap of
button side— shape the point for collar, and draw
a line for neck, from K line to V. Next draw a
a line from P, through B, to X—
also from X to
"\Y— then shape bottom line of back, and cut the
back out. Bi-ing the back on top of front shoul-
der let point I rest on K J line, and in that po-
;

—
for spring of back place the ruler on this mark, sition, the front arm scye, by the
finish
and point N, and draw shoulder line of back. back— then shape the front shoulder from arm
The next line we must hud is line Isi Take : scye to K line,— and all the rest as shown in Dia-
one-half of A and B, (5^ inches), and apiily this uraiii P, and according to the fashion of the day.
 —— —

28 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE.

PLATE XII.
DIAGRAM Q.
in Diagram P. Mark in from front line at Z, to
point of collar (say f inch) and the draft is fin-
Showing' the different ««tyle!^ of Test. ished.
In this Diai^Tam we show the di'aft of the dif-
ferent styles of Vests, —
the Single Breasted, to DIAGRAM S.
—
button close np to the neck, the Double Breast- S/ion-iiif/ (Itc Diajt of I lie Double Breasted Vest, to

—
ed to button way np, and also the Double button close vp to the neck.
Breasted with long rolling collar. This style of ^"est is drafted as shown in Dia-
Diagram Q is drafted in the same manner as gram R. Draw front line, from Z to W. Now
shown in Diagram P and whatever the style
; draft the Lapel. Mark on top, (say 2 inches),
may which the Cutter may wish to draft, the
be, — at Vline (say 2^ inches) at line (say 2 — Y
change must be in front, as from V, Y and W. —
inches, more or less) and shape the Lapel, as
We will show these changes by three Diagrams: shown in Diagram, according to fashion or fancy.

DIAGRAM P. DIAGRAM T.
Single Breasted Vest, to button dose np to neck. Shoicliirj (he Draft of the Double Breasted Vest, with
long rolling Collar.
We suppose now, that we have made the
draft
as in Diagram P, with the exception that the Mark length of Collar to measure or fancy
front line, from V to W,
has to be drawn. mai'k out from Y
(say 2i inches) at liottom (say —
Now commence and mark, from D to Q, one- —
If inch, more or less) and draw a line liy these
—
third of breast, 6 inches square out to Z. Hav- —
marks then draw a line doAvn for neck finish —
ing this, then shape the neck to front line at Z the bottom to fashion.
from this point draw front line to V, to Y, to
and we have the side for tlie button holes then
W Next draw a line for Buttons, ^ inch less than
we have marked outside of Y
and W, and finish
;

draw a line outside for the button side, or lap, as the rest as shown in Diagram.

The Pattern System,

DIAGRAM P.
SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A 36-SIZE A^EST PATTERN.
—
Draw line O to O square out from A to Y. (See one-sixth, or 3 inches, from B to X, and draw the
Cutting jTable of Proportions, page 25). Mark bottom line by these ixdnts —
mai'k out from B,
—
from A to B 12 inches B to C, one inch in all ^ inch less than one-half breast, (8^ inches).
sizes — —
square up to D fnmi B to D '20\ inches Having now all these points, then commence
—
square out to U D to L, 12^ inches square out — and finish the draft Sliape centre of back from
from L, through mark to V apply one-half of— H to L, tluough F to bottom. Then from R to P
A and B, from line C, to M—
square iip from M. — from P, through G, to Z. Now cut the back
Now mark at waist, from A to F, i inch from F. — out and bring it on top of front shoulder, and
to G, or side line of Back, one-half breast, 9 finish as before stated in actual measurement.
inches. From C, measure up to D, (20A- inches), —
Draw arm scye to P from P, finish side line to
and bring tlie amount from G to H, allow one B, to X. Then draw line for bottom of back as
seam above H, and square out to I' Then take shown in the Diagram. Next finish the neck,
one-fourth of A and B, 3 inches, and apply this from J K lines to point of collar, then from A',
from H —
to I from to D K —D
to J also from — through Y, to \V —
and all the rest as shown in
line L, to N. Mark ux> from I, | inches for actual measurement.
spring of back
draw
— place the ruler on this mark, and
In regard to the draft of the diftVrent styles of
N, and line for shoulder s(»am of back.
Vests, as in Diagrams Q, R, S and T, this is done
Now take oue-lialf of line jj, and D. ((!J- inches),
in the same manner as liefore stated, and does
add \ inch in all cases to this ^, and bring it from
not need furtlier exi)lanation.
M to S— place the ruler on L and K, and draw a
line np, also from S to K, J, line. Having shown this draft of a 30 size, we will
say that, ]»r()viding tlie Cutter will use " Tlw
Nowa^iply the breast measure from L to T
Cutting Table of Proportions,''^ and follow the
from T to \\ 2 inches. Square up from T to I'
instruction as heiein given, he will produce a set
from U diaw a line to V. IMark lengtli of front.
of Patterns whicli are equal to any tiiat he may
This of course is i-eguhited by fasiiioii, and must
f)rder from pattern (>stablishments.
be made accordingly. For a guide, we will say,
bring ^d of breast (6 inches), from Y to and W— And i>\- lliis the N'est S\stem is ended.
PLATE, XII
MJ3iMil-^-.«~, ^.^..-,^»;:,«^^^i''
IBRftRY OF CONGRESS

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