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HATS
Brompton Military Style Hat, Chelsea Baker boy Hat and Brighton Bucket Hat.
SUMMER
BRIGHTON
HAT
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HATS | https://sewgirlblog.com/2020/10/01/brompton-military-style-hat/
WINTER
BRIGHTON
HAT
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CHELSEA
HAT
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BROMPTON
MILITARY
STYLE HAT
I really love making hats! Tweed ones or co�on prints, denim and velvet or needlecord, a hat is an all
year round wardrobe essential for any occasion and time of the year.
This blog will show you some of the step by steps to give you an idea about whats involved. To buy
any of the pa�erns, please click any of the Etsy shop links.
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(h�ps://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/SewgirlintheUK)
Sewgirl hat pa�erns are available either as a PDF digital downloads or as a paper pa�ern (link above
to my Etsy shop (h�p://www.etsy.com/shop/SewgirlintheUK)). All hats can be made in sizes small,
medium or large. To measure your head diameter, extend a tape measure around your forehead and
above your ears.
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: tailor’s ham, pinking shears, pins / quilter’s clips, stitch ripper and a
poking tool.
Insert a walking foot a�achment on your machine if you have one, which will make it easier to sew.
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A
walking
foot
makes
bulky
layers
so
much
easier
to sew.
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Winter
version
of
Brighton
Hat, for
the
rose�e
brooch
pa�ern
scroll
down
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Sew
together
the Side
band
and
Brim
outer
and
lining
pieces.
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With
the RST,
pin the
Brim
outer
and
Brim
lining
together
at the
outer
edge.
Sew.
Nick
the
outer
edge all
around.
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Turn
the
Brim
inside
out.
Press.
Pin all
around
at the
inner
edge.
Zig zag
together
the
inner
raw
edges
all
around.
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Now for the fun bit…… Stitch lines all around the brim, this helps to stiffen it and it looks good too!
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You
need
about
5
lines,
for
the
small
brim
and 7
for
the
large
brim,
1cm
apart
from
each
other.
Pin
the
Crown
to the
Side
band.
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Hand
tack
stitch.
Sew all
around.
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Nick the
seam
allowance
all
around.
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Repeat
for the
outer
fabric
and
the
lining.
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Pin or clip
the lining
cap on top
of the
brim/outer
cap piece.
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Stitch
rip a
small
opening
in the
Side
Band
seam.
Turn
inside
out
through
the
opening.
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Sew up
the
opening.
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Et Voila!
One
lovely
Brighton
Hat!
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Why
not
add a
rose�e
on the
side
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From the
left over
hat outer
fabric,
cut a
circle
approx
18cm (7″)
in
diameter.
Machine
tack
6mm
(1/4″) in
from the
outer
edge all
around
with the
longest
stitch
length
se�ing,
leaving
long
thread
ends.
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Pull the
thread
ends to
gather
up the
rose�e.
Stitch to
secure.
Sew on
a lovely
large
(vintage)
bu�on
to hide
the raw
edges.
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A�ach a
brooch
pin on the
reverse
side
positioned
centrally
with a few
hand
stitches.
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Pin to
the
side
of
your
hat
and
you
are
away!
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Join
the
Side
Front
to
the
Side
Back
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A�ach
the
Side
panel
to the
Crown
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Topstitching
heaven!
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Make a
Crown
in the
lining
fabric,
in the
same
way as
the
outer
fabric
but
leave an
opening
in the
seam
for
turning
the hat
inside
out at
the end.
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These
are the
Band
and
Band
lining
pieces
joined
together
to make
‘rings’.
Three
peaks! All
interfaced
and one is
reinforced
with
stitching
(this one is
sandwiched
inside the
peak.
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The
lines of
stitching
make
the peak
stiffer.
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Add the
reinforced
peak to
the peak
lining.
Stock with
glue or
bondaweb.
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Turn the
peak
inside
out,
pushing
out the
edges on
the
inside
with a
poking
tool.
Topstitch
around
the outer
edge.
Machine
tack the
inner
curved
raw
edges
together
with a
zig zag
stitch.
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With
the
seams
at the
centre
back,
clip (or
pin) the
peak to
the
lower
edge of
the
outer
band
and
machine
tack to
hold.
You
may
find it
helpful
to nick
the raw
inner
curved
edge of
the
peak to
ease it
in.
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With the seams matching at the back, clip (or pin) the other band lower edge to the peak aligning the
centres. Tack.
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Stitch all
around.
Flip the
bands
up.
Press.
Machine
tack the
raw
edges
together.
Try it on
at this
stage. If
you feel
it needs
some
elastic
you
could
add a
ring of
3/4″
elastic
into the
band
before
tacking
together.
Adjust
to fit.
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Heres
the outer
crown
you
made
earlier.
With the
RST,
matching
the
centre
back and
the
centre
front, pin
the band
raw edge
to the
crown
raw edge
with the
right
sides
together.
Sew.
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Pin the
lining
to the
other
side of
the
band
edge.
Hand
tack.
Sew.
Turn
the hat
inside
out
through
the
opening
in the
lining.
Push
the
lining
inside
the hat.
Give it
a good
press
using
your
trusty
tailors
ham.
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Ta
dah!
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The main difference between the two hats is the Crown. The Chelsea Hat Crown is made in segments
like a chocolate orange. (yummy!). Suitable fabrics you could consider: Tweeds, corduroy, co�on,
denim so its a hat for all seasons.
Please note that the pa�ern includes one 29mm self cover bu�on, if you need any more for making a
hat for friends and family, you I have some available in the haberdashery listing on my shop as well
as fusible interfacing by the metre.
The Crown pieces, when they are cut look like this. There are 6 of them in outer fabric and 6 in lining
fabric and they are interfaced either with medium fusible interfacing or fusible fleece wadding
(Vlieseline H640) for warmth or just some ba�ing with something like a spray textile glue or
bondaweb to fuse the interfacing to the outer fabric pieces. You also need the Band piece and the Peak
pieces.
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Join
two
pieces
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Sew two
pieces
together,
then add
the third
segment,
so you
have
three
pieces
joined at
the side
edges.
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So after you have the Crown outer and lining, you make the Peak and the Band in the same way as
with the Brompton Hat. So scroll up to see this bit.
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Hand stitch to the apex of the hat where the seams converge, this covers up any mismatches! (what
mismatches I hear you ask!)
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Copyright
Fiona
Hesford.
Please do
not copy or
repost any
images
without
prior
permission.
BLOG AT WORDPRESS.COM.
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