OGRE GUT

OLYMPICSRULES FOR GUT-BARGING & PUNT-A-RUNT

Pete Haines takes a long run
up at the topic of Ogre gut-
barging, a subject close to
any Ogre’s heart. Just below
it, in fact. Meanwhile, Jake
Thornton also looks at
another favourite of the
Ogres, but not necessarily
the Gnoblars, Punt-a-runt.
marker against a wall or a Slime marker
on any square (toss a coin for first pick).
It is up to the players which markers
they place.
The Combatants
The rules given here cover fights
between Ogre Bulls. Although Tyrants,
Bruisers and even Maneaters frequently
take part, these girthsome individuals
would have an unfair advantage so, for
the sake of an interesting game, they
have been omitted. By triumphing in
Before the fight starts, each Ogre
works himself up into a frenzy. In this
mood he feels even less pain than
normal. This makes their entry into the
trench rather uncontrolled, especially as
they must negotiate the slope. Starting
with the Ogre that was placed second,
roll a D3 and move the Ogre that
number of squares down the ramp. The
other player follows suit. Place a dice at
the end of each Ogre’s trench showing
how many squares they have moved.
This is important as it shows the speed

G
ut-barging is almost certainly one
of the most popular sports
amongst Ogres and is often used
as a way of settling disputes between
Bulls. There are many local variants,
some of which are closer to being pit-
fights, but traditional gut-barging is
instantly recognisable by the gut trench
in which it is conducted.
The Gut Trench
A gut trench is typically just wide
enough for two Ogres to pass each
other. It is normally about ten feet deep
at the centre with a sloped ramp at
either end leading down into it. The
trench is typically dug by Gnoblar slaves
and the little scamps often add a few
embellishments of their own, after all
they want to see a good show. They sort
out a variety of rusted weapons from
their scrap piles and embed them in the
trench walls, sharp side outwards, and
break up the soil on the trench floor
and soak it thoroughly to make it boggy
and slippery (sometimes they will
actually use water for this). With the
trench prepared, the edge is set with
torches and all is ready for the
combatants to enter.
the trench, however, it is possible for a
Bull to make a name for himself and
improve his abilities. The most
successful Ogres in the trench often
earn the honorific Wallcrusher, available
from the big names section of the Ogre
Kingdoms book, allowing you to field an
Ogre gut-barging expert in a
Warhammer battle. Such an individual
has a truly devastating Bull Charge…
Set-Up
The players then roll a dice to see who
places their Ogre first, the winner
choosing first or second. Each Ogre is
placed at the end of the trench with its
base touching the board, facing along it,
and aligned so that their bases line up
with a double row of squares.
Set-Up The Ogre must be placed so that he is lined up with two squares
✔ ✘
they are moving at and will affect their
options in the next turn.
Starting the Game
After this preliminary move the game is
played in turns. Each turn consists of six
separate steps. Within each step an Ogre
can perform a single action. The
number of steps an Ogre can act in is
determined by his Speed. This is shown
by a dice. An Ogre with Speed 1 can
only act in one step – the first one –
whilst an Ogre with Speed 6 can act in
all six steps. Generally, the higher your
Speed the more obvious your actions
will be. Players can adjust their Ogre’s
Speed at the start of each turn, and
combat damage can reduce their Speed
during the turn.

The Trench
Each square is 20mm across, this means
an Ogre model will always occupy four
squares at any time. The first three
squares at each end are sloped leading
down to the trench proper.
Before play starts roll 2D6 to
determine the number of little surprises
the Gnoblars have set up. Each player
then takes it in turn to place a Spike
 GUT-BARGING
BOARD AND COUNTERS
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Copyright Games Workshop Ltd 2005. Permission is granted to

photocopy this gut-barging board and counters for personal use only,
to play games of Ogre gut-barging using Warhammer miniatures.
All rights reserved.

Playing the Game
The gut-barge is played using the
following sequence:
1. Choose Speed
2. Reveal new Speed
3. Adjust Ogre’s Speed
accordingly
4. Resolve step 1 – Ogres with a
Speed of 1 or more may act
(ie, all of them)
5. Resolve step 2 – Ogres with a
Speed of 2 or more may act
6. Resolve step 3 – Ogres with a
Speed of 3 or more may act
7. Resolve step 4 – Ogres with a
Speed of 4 or more may act
8. Resolve step 5 – Ogres with a
Speed of 5 or more may act
9. Resolve step 6 – Ogres with a
Speed of 6 may act
10. Return to step 1
Choosing Speed
At the start of each turn, each player
secretly puts a D6 under their hand. The
number uppermost determines the
Speed they wish to move at, the higher
the number the faster the Ogres move.
A player cannot choose a number
more than 2 higher or lower than their
current Speed. If they are currently
facing down a slope then the number
cannot be lower than their current
Speed. If they are currently facing up a
slope then the number cannot be
higher. A prone model does not count
as facing in any direction.
Reveal New Speed/Adjust
Ogre’s Speed Accordingly
The scores are then revealed
simultaneously. Place the dice at your
end of the trench to indicate the Ogres
new Speed. An Ogre has a maximum
Speed of 6 and a minimum Speed of 1,
so you never need more than one dice.
rounds, as their speed is not high
enough.
Before starting step 1, determine
which Ogre has priority. This will be the
Ogre with the highest Speed at the start
of the turn. If this is equal then it will be
the Ogre nearest its opponent’s end of
the trench. If this is also equal then roll
a D6. The Ogre with priority goes first
at each step, provided it has the speed
to act.
COMBAT MANOEUVRES
An Ogre with a Speed dice showing 1 to
3 is adopting a cautious stance –
although he is keeping alert, he is not
expending any unnecessary energy.
The objective of a gut-barge is to
force your opponent out of the trench
or inflict so many injuries that he is no
longer able to fight.
In each step in which he can act, an
Ogre with Speed of 1-3 must choose
one of the following actions:
Get up if prone
Turn left or right
Sidestep one square
Move forward one square
Back off one square (note that if
any part of his base exits the board
the way he entered then he has
forfeited the match and will be
badly beaten or even eaten by the
crowd).
Make a normal attack. In order to
make an attack there must be an
Attacking In order to make an attack there must be an Ogre occupying one of the
squares directly in front of the front edge of his base
enemy Ogre occupying one of the
squares directly in front of the
forward edge of his base.
An Ogre with a Speed dice showing 4 to
6 is moving too determinedly forward to
make such subtle manoeuvres. He is in
fact building up to ramming speed.
In each step in which he can act, an
Ogre with a speed of 4-6 must choose
one of the following actions:
Move forward one square. If this
movement would take the Ogre
into a square occupied by another
Ogre, he must make a gut-barge
attack.
Sidestep one square. Roll a D6. If
you score equal or more than your
current Speed score then you keep
your balance and sidestep. If you
roll below your Speed score then
you are moving too fast and take a
tumble. Your Ogre is Knocked Over
in the same squares his base was
occupying at the time of the fall.
Movement
When an Ogre moves, his base is moved
forward one row of squares so that he
effectively occupies two new squares. If
either of these contain Slime or Spike
markers then he may slip or scrape
himself – take the appropriate test.
(Note that you only make these tests
during your own movement, not during
movement triggered by a combat action
such as a Drive.)

Resolve Steps 1-6

The players then alternate moving their
Ogres one Speed Point at a time. This is
done in six steps, moving all models
with Speed 1 or more, then models with
Speed 2 or more, then models with
Speed 3 or more and so on.

Example – Let’s say one Ogre is on

Speed 3 and the other on Speed 2. We
start with step 1 by activating Ogres
with Speed of 1 or more, so both Ogres
get to use one Speed Point. We then
activate Ogres with Speed of 2 or more
so once again both Ogres can act.
However, when we do the third step,
activating Ogres with Speed of 3 or
more, this time only the Ogre with 3
Speed can act. Neither of them act in
the Speed 4 or more, 5 or more and 6
✔ ✘

Slime and Spike Markers
Slime – Roll a D6. If you score
equal or more than your Ogre’s
current Speed score then he keeps
his balance and is unaffected by the
slime. If you roll below your Ogre’s
Speed score then he is moving too
fast, slips in the mire and takes a
tumble. Your Ogre is Knocked Down
in the same squares his base was
occupying at the time of the fall.
Spikes – Roll a D6. If you score
equal or more than your Ogre’s
current Speed then he manages to
avoid the spikes and takes no
damage. If you roll below your
Ogre’s Speed score then he has
moved on to one or more spikes and
has scratched himself. It takes a lot
more than this to seriously hurt an
Ogre but he will be Bloodied (place
the Bloodied counter next to the
Ogre). This does not inhibit him but
tends to get your opponent’s taste
buds going and provides them with
some encouragement.
ATTACKS
Attacks come in two general forms –
full-blown gut-barges (only possible if
your Speed marker is showing 4, 5 or 6)
and normal attacks. Within the broad
category of normal attacks there are
several different combat manoeuvres
you can perform.
Rolling to Hit
Whichever attack form you want to try,
the mechanism is the same.
In order to hit, you must roll equal
to, or more than, the opponents’
speed. Whatever happens, a score
of 1 always misses.
Normal Attacks
Pummel. The Ogre pounds on his
opponent with arms the size of
cannons, bashing him about the head
and chest. This is unlikely to be fatal but
may stun his opponent long enough to
do some serious harm in another way.
A pummel attack may be re-rolled if
it misses (an Ogre has got two hands
after all). If you hit with a pummel
attack, the Ogres’ opponent is Winded.
Bite/Gouge/Butt. The Ogre uses the
secret underhand ‘hurting technique’
taught to him by his father (the hard
way, of course). This differs from Ogre
to Ogre but is normally guaranteed to
draw blood and really annoy your
opponent.
If you hit with a Bite/Gouge/Butt
attack, your Ogre’s opponent is Winded
and Bloodied.
Grab. The Ogre reaches out, grabs hold
of his opponent’s gut and squeezes. Throw The Ogre has thrown his
This restricts his opponent’s options opponent one square
and gives the Ogre the opportunity to backwards and one
use some additional attacks such as square right – straight
Throw, Hug and Drive. into some spikes.
An Ogre may not Grab a prone
opponent. If the Grab is successful, the
Spikes
opponent is held – place the Grab token
by his base – and he has his Speed
reduced to 3 if it is currently higher.
Moreover, whilst he is Grabbed he may
only choose to Bite/Gouge/Butt or Break
the Hold (see below). Once an Ogre has
applied a Grab he can release it at any
time. While it is applied he can perform
Bite/Gouge/Butt attacks and may
perform Throw, Hug or Drive attacks.
Breaking a Hold. This is done by
rolling to hit as normal. If the Ogre
attempting to break the hold hits, then
the hold is broken. Remove the
‘Grabbed’ counter. No other damage is
inflicted.
Throw. An Ogre may only attempt a
Throw if his opponent is Grabbed. The
Ogre bodily hauls his opponent off the Bear Hug. An Ogre may only attempt a
ground and throws him. If you hit with Bear Hug if his opponent is Grabbed.
a Throw attack, the Ogre hurls his The Ogre extends his arms around his
opponent two squares horizontally opponent’s girth and tries to squeeze
and/or vertically. This movement may the life out of him, winding him and
not pass through another model or perhaps snapping some ribs too.
move the Ogre over the sides of the If you hit with a Bear Hug attack,
trench (although you can throw him out the opponent remains Grabbed but is
of the end of the trench – a winning also Winded and Bloodied.
move very popular with gut-barge
afficionados). The hold is automatically Drive. An Ogre may only attempt a
released at this point – remove the Drive if his opponent is Grabbed. The
‘Grabbed’ counter. The hurled model is Ogre gets his body weight low and his
Knocked Over. If any of the squares he opponent’s high, pushing his opponent
is hurled through contain spikes then backward whilst maintaining the hold
he is Bloodied. and following up.
BATTLE DAMAGE
Injured. An Ogre can survive horrendous injuries but will generally be slowed
down by them. An Ogre with a single Injury may never have a Speed of 6, if he has
two or more Injuries then he may never have a Speed of 5 or 6, and so on. If an
Ogre suffers six Injuries, he passes out from the pain and is defeated. He may also
be eaten before he manages to wake up!
Bloodied. Gut-barging tends to be messy and the crowd likes to see the blood
splashing about. Fortunately Ogres can leak vital fluids all day with no real ill
effects to themselves. Nonetheless the smell of the red stuff acts as an incentive to
an opponent and allows him to add 1 to his Attack rolls (remember a roll of 1 still
always misses). If an already Bloodied model is hit by something that causes him
to be Bloodied further his opponent may make a roll to hit – if this is successful
the Bloodied model takes an Injury.
Knocked Over. When an opponent is knocked over or thrown he is placed prone
in the squares he occupied before being knocked over (or that he was thrown
into). His Speed dice is set to 1.
Winded. Some attacks will put an Ogre off his stride more than they actually hurt
him. When an Ogre is Winded, his Speed dice is immediately reduced by 1 (to a
minimum of 1). This may prevent him taking actions later in the turn.
 If an Ogre hits with a Drive attack,
his opponent remains Grabbed but you
may move your own model one square
forward, or one square to the side, or
turn to the left or the right. You then
move your opponent’s Ogre so that he
occupies the same position relative to
the front of your own Ogre as he did
before. You may not drive in such a way
that there is no room for your opponent
to be moved. If your opponent is now
in a square with spikes he is
automatically Bloodied.

Drive The Ogre has grabbed his

opponent and driven him
one square to the left,
onto (you guessed it)
some spikes.
Spikes

Splash. You may only attempt a Splash
if your opponent is prone. Some Ogres
content themselves with a bit of
stomping up and down on their
opponent but a true gut-barger jumps
upward and belly flops on his adversary
like a leaping whale. This can do a fair
bit of harm.
If you hit with a Splash attack your
opponent suffers a further Knocked
Down result (reducing his Speed to 1)
and is Injured.
Gut-barge attacks
Whilst all the biting, punching and
wrestling can wear an opponent down
nothing delivers the coup de grace like a
full on gut-barge attack.
When launching a gut-barge, roll to
hit as normal. If you hit then the
opponent is moved back one square
directly away from the line of the charge
for every two points of Speed (rounding
down) the attacking Ogre has. The
barger then moves directly forward one
square. Whether you hit or not, an Ogre
attempting a gut-barge reduces his
Speed by 3 (to a minimum of 1) – gut-
barging takes a lot of impetus.
An Ogre hit by a gut-barge is
Knocked Down and suffers one Injury
for every two points (rounding down)
of Speed the attacker has. A full gut-
barge from an Ogre whose speed is 6
can half an opponent’s effectiveness
with one blow!
If the opponent cannot retreat into
the appropriate place (say because they
have a wall behind them) then they will
take an additional Injured result. If any
square they enter contains Spikes then
they are Bloodied in addition to any
other damage they suffer.
Winning and Losing
An Ogre who is even partially forced
out of the gut trench loses. An Ogre
who succumbs to his injuries loses.
An Ogre whose opponent leaves the
trench at his own end loses.
GUT-BARGING VARIANTS
Best of Three. In this variant the barge
is conducted over three rounds using
the same combatants. Between bouts
each Ogre will recover D6 Injuries as
they are rubbed down with a moist
Gnoblar and given a tasty Rhinox steak
to get their strength back. The winner is
the Ogre to win two of the three
rounds.
Tag-Barging. In Tag-Barging each player
controls a team of two or three Ogres.
Only one member of a team may be in
the trench at any time. When the
current combatant is driven out of the
trench or collapses a new turn begins
and another member of his team can
enter play.
If the surviving competitor is on the
slope at his opponent’s end he is moved
outside the trench and placed at that
end of the slope as if he was starting a
new round. The new combatants’ initial
free move is always D3 squares down
the slope at the end furthest away
from the opponent’s Ogre. The turn
sequence then starts as usual.
Club Surprise. To add to the carnage a
large, gnarled club is thrown in the
trench. It will be adjacent to the centre
line. Roll a D6 to determine which side,
and then a further D6 to decide which
square on the row it lands (1 = extreme
left, 2,3 = middle left, 4,5 = middle
right, 6 = extreme right; all judged
according to the view of the Ogre whose
end of the trench the club is nearest).
Place a marker (preferably a spare club
from the Ogre Bulls frame) to show
where the club is.
In Club Surprise you may perform
the following additional actions:
Speed 1 to 3
Pick up club. If the Club marker is
under an Ogre’s base he may pick it up.
Place it on the model. He may not do
this if he is Grabbed.
Swing Club. This counts as a Pummel
attack but additionally inflicts a
Bloodied result on your opponent if it is
successful.
Throw Club. This counts as a
Bite/Gouge/Butt but can be performed
at any distance. The target must be in
the trench and at least partially in front
of your Ogre, ie, a part of his base is in
the same column of squares as his
opponent’s base. When an Ogre throws
the club you place the Club marker in
the last square it passes through before
reaching the target. If the target is
directly in front of your Ogre’s base
then you can choose which line of
squares it passes down.
Disarm. You may only perform a
Disarm if your opponent is Grabbed and
he has the club. If you hit with a normal
attack, the club is hurled into the air
and out of the arena. Roll a D6, on a 5
or 6 it hits a Gnoblar spectator, killing
him. This is not especially relevant but
is quite amusing. At the start of the next
turn the club will be thrown back into
the trench exactly as it is when the fight
starts. If an Ogre is in the square where
it lands, he will catch it and may use it
as described in this section but suffers a
Bite/Gouge/Butt attack into the bargain
– this automatically hits.
MEASURING THE STATUS
OF YOUR GUT-BARGER
To enter the trench at all an Ogre must
build up a stable of ten prize Gnoblars.
These form the stake for his gut-barging
career. These may become the property
of his opponent depending on the
result. Each competitor must stake five
Gnoblar slaves on each bout; the
number he wins or loses depends on 41+ A Rock. When he achieves this
the way the bout ends. Gnoblars won in level, an Ogre has it made.
this manner are taken from the loser’s Served the finest dainties (such as
five-Gnoblar stake and given over to the stuffed Hobgoblin or Sabretusk
winner. drumsticks) on jumbo platters by
his dedicated army of Gnoblar
The type of win determines the number servants, a Rock is the envy of all
of Gnoblars that are won or lost: the other Bulls. He may even be
able to challenge the Tyrant some
Win by throw-out (the 3 Gnoblars day. In the meantime he should
opponent is thrown be given a special Big Name to
out of the trench) reflect his triumphs in the trench.
Win by drive-out (the 2 Gnoblars
opponent is driven
out of the trench)
Win by escape (the 1 Gnoblar
winner leaves by his Another bloodsport famously used
opponents end) by the Ogres is pit-fighting – if you
Win by barge-out (the 4 Gnoblars fancy a crack at a fully-realised pit-
opponent is gut-barged fighting game, then look no further
out of the trench) than the Fanatic website.
Win by blood loss (the 5 Gnoblars www.specialist-games.com/
opponent sustains mordheim/archive.asp
six injuries)
For example, if Drogrash beats Grasgh
by barging him out of the trench,
Drogrash takes four of Grasgh’s
Gnoblars for his own. If Grasgh wants a
rematch he must stump up another four
to replenish his stake back up to five.
Players may choose to wager
additional prize-Gnoblars at their whim
and can even arrange special odds or
stipulations for these side bets. For
example, an Ogre player may bet his
opponent mid-game that he will win in
some manner, betting a further Gnoblar
or two. If this bet is accepted the results
of this bet are added to the usual spoils
of victory. Remember that there must
always be five Gnoblars from each
player as a basic bet.
The status of a gut-barger is derived
from the number of prize-Gnoblars that
he has. An Ogre with less than five
Gnoblars can no longer compete and
the player should start a new Ogre with
a starting stable of ten Gnoblars.
1-10 Likely Lad. He’s got the gut for
it but does he have the intestinal
fortitude? A Likely Lad is a typical
Bull with no particular reputation
in the trench.
11-20 Bully Boy. He’s got the scars and
a gang of prize Gnoblars. Few
other Bulls are going to argue if
he takes a bite out of their
Rhinox.
21-30 Champ. He’s talked the talk,
walked the walk and consumed
several times his own bodymass
in unfortunate adversaries.
31-40 Bruiser. Even the Tyrant pays
attention when this Ogre steps
into the trench. A legend in his
tribe and the source of much
gossip between distant bellowers.
 PUNT-A-RUNT By Jake Thornton
Overview
The game can be played over any
reasonably clear field, and is often part
of the victory celebrations after a
battle. In fact, playing over a battlefield
with its piles of dead and dying offers
an excellent opportunity to grab a
snack whilst waiting for your turn.
The game starts with the Ogres
grabbing three Gnoblars each and
lining up facing downfield. It’s a
competition to see who has the best
boot and can punt the wriggly little
fellers the furthest. But it’s not just a
one-off punt, any fool can do that, it’s a
five-punt challenge. Those of you that
can count might have noticed that you
only get three Gnoblars for your five
punts, and that is part of the cunnin’.
Each time you punt a Gnoblar you
walk to where he landed and see if
he’s good for another punt (if they’re a
bit scuffed nobody’ll mind, but punting
a dead Gnoblar just isn’t done).
Assuming either that the Gnoblar’s OK,
or you have a spare from your starting
trio, you punt again. When that lands,
you walk over to that one and so on.
In this way each punt adds to the last
and it’s the Ogre that gets the furthest
with a maximum of five punts that’s
the winner. If you run out of Gnoblars
or rupture something in your effort to
make a big kick, then you have to stop.
You can still win if you’ve gone the
furthest, but you can’t carry on.
Starting Out
Each player takes an Ogre model and
three Gnoblars and sets them up at
one end of the table, facing down its
length. All the Ogres should be in a
line (having them start at the table
edge is the simplest way to do this).
The player who looks the most like an
Ogre goes first, and play proceeds
clockwise around the table. If you can’t
agree who’s impression is best, roll a
dice to decide who starts.
Players take turns to boot a
Gnoblar. When it’s your turn, you take
your next Gnoblar and decide how
hard you’re going to kick it. Of course,
if you’ve got no Gnoblars left you can’t
do another kick. Assuming you have a
Gnoblar to hand, choose one type of
kick (which can be different each time)
from the following table:
Kick the Gnoblar Distance
Really Hard 2D6"
Harder Than That 3D6"
So Hard You Might Do 4D6"
Yourself A Mischief
Once you’ve chosen your kick, roll the
number of dice indicated. Doubles and
triples indicate something bad has
happened (see below). The total is the
distance that the Gnoblar travels. Put
him that far down the table and move
the Ogre up to meet him.
A double. The Gnoblar being punted
ruptures something important and
dies. He can no longer be used, but
leave him lying where he fell anyway
(as decoration). The Ogre is
momentarily confused as he didn’t
realise that Gnoblars contained
anything important.
Two doubles. Not only does the
Gnoblar being punted rupture
something, but his mates are so upset
by the sickening crunching sound your
boot made when it impacted his frail
torso that one of the them absconds
too. The Gnoblar being punted is
dead, so lie him down. If you had any
other Gnoblars spare remove one of
them.
Triples. You put so much enthusiasm
into your booting of the Gnoblar that
you strain something you shouldn’t.
Sadly, it’s not the Gnoblar you’ve
broken this time and you need to sit
down. This Ogre can’t punt any more
Gnoblars today and once he’s
staggered over to where the last one
landed he sits down to watch the
others. He can still win if he’s gone the
furthest. And that’s pretty much it for
the ‘classic’ Punt-a-Runt. Of course,
what with modern youth being the
disrespectful scallywags they are, they
couldn’t leave such a classic pastime
alone and have developed all manner
of variations on this age-old theme.
The most popular of these are the
‘unlimited punts’ version and games
played around obstacles.
Unlimited Punts
This is exactly the same as the normal
game and you still only get three
Gnoblars, but you get to punt them
about until you break them all. There
is no five punt limit. Other than that
it’s the same as described above.
Furthest travelled in total wins.
Obstacles
This sprang up when Ogres tried
playing in areas where there simply
wasn’t enough space in a straight line.
It took a bit of working out, but after
the first few Ogres fell off the cliff
whilst watching their Gnoblars soaring
through the clouds, the rest saw that
putting a few bends in the course
might not be such a bad idea. It is
played in a couple of sub-variants, but
the basic idea is the same: to punt
some runts around a winding obstacle
course. If you want to use obstacles,
simply take it in turns placing a piece
of terrain to form a course.
The distance you move is dictated,
as usual, by how far you punt the
Gnoblar, but this time you’ve got to get
round corners and between obstacles
too. This makes judging your kick
accurately more important than sheer
range. It also means that the direction
of your kick is important. To avoid
debate, turn your Ogre on the spot to
face the direction he’s going to kick
before you roll your dice, and place a
marker (coin, spare dice, etc) a foot or
two away in the exact direction as an
aim point. The distance kicked is
measured between the Ogre and the
aim point.
If a Gnoblar hits an obstacle then
there’s a nasty/entertaining “splat!”,
and he falls to the base of the
offending obstruction, dead.
One variant uses a three Gnoblar
limit, just like the normal game. The
other allows an unlimited number of
Gnoblars, instead counting the number
of punts required to complete the
course. This is the newest (and least
accepted) of the variants, which makes
it the most popular among rebellious
young Ogres.