Tatie Soft

Toys
Amigurumi Pattern

Straight Bunny
Pattern
2 in 1

You can sell the finished toy crocheted by you, if you could mention me as the designer that would be
greatly appreciated. Please do not resell the pattern.

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: Large Bunny : 15” / 38 cm tall from feet to the tip of the ears.

Small Bunny : 9” / 22 cm tall from feet to the tip of the ears.

Yarns

Paintbox Simply Aran Paper White Paintbox Simply Aran Washed Teal

Paintbox Simply Aran Washed Teal

Supplies

Crochet hooks 3.00mm or 3.50mm Trimming scissors

Yarn needle Stitch marker
Polyester fibrefill stuffing One pair of 10 mm black safety eyes
4.50mm hook to crochet the scarves One pair of 12 mm black safety eyes

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 About the crochet terms

I use US crochet terms in my patterns. However, as you may know US crochet terms are different than UK crochet
terms. Here is a chart for you to see them both.

US Crochet Term UK Crochet Term

Chain (ch) Chain (ch)

Single Crochet (sc) Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet (dc) Treble Crochet (tr)
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Half Treble Crochet (htr)
Triple Crochet (trc) Double Treble Crochet (dtr)

Abbreviations Used

sl st = slip stitch ch = chain inc = increase

st = stitch sc = single crochet inv dec = invisible decrease
sts = stitches rep = repeat

Good to know (useful tips about crocheting amigurumi)

1: Magic ring is the best way to start crocheting your amigurumi which leaves no hole in the middle & gives you a very neat finish
that you will love and appreciate.

2: Always leave the yarn tails a bit longer to sew the parts together.

3: Any size hook with a correspondingly sized yarn can be used to crochet amigurumi. Though the most common combination is
aran / worsted yarn and 3.50mm hook.

You may now say that the label on your yarn suggests that you should you use 5.00mm hook with your aran yarn. In order to
crochet a nice and neat amigurumi you need to use at least one size smaller hook than your yarn suggests. With a smaller hook
you can crochet your amigurumi tightly, so the stuffing won’t show through. If you are crocheting way too tight I suggest that
you may use either 4.00mm or 4.25mm hook with your aran yarn instead of 5.00mm hook.

4: Although some amigurumi patterns are worked with single crochet & in joined rounds which you do not need to use a stitch
marker, most amigurumi patterns are worked with single crochet & in continuous / spiral rounds which you need to use a stitch
marker to mark the beginning of each round.

5: A small pair sharp pointed scissors is the best scissors to have when crocheting amigurumi to cut / snip the yarns and trim
the ends.

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6: You’ll need a blunt-tipped yarn needle to weave in yarn ends & stitch the parts / pieces together.

7: Pins always come in handy keeping the parts / pieces in place while you are sewing them together.

8: Acrylic is the most popular yarn to make amigurumi. Having said that if you choose the cheapest acrylic yarns they can be
very scratchy & rough to work with and the toy will not be very pleasant to touch. I prefer soft premium acrylic yarns which
are pleasure to crochet with & the finished toy turns out nice, smooth & soft. The premium acrylic yarns are inexpensive, plus
machine washable & they don’t stretch. On top of everything acrylic yarns are available in a wide variety of colours.

However, you may choose to work with wool, but I must say that wool yarns can be scratchy to work with, they may be
stretched and also expensive. Another thing with wool is that some people are allergic to it.

As for cotton, I must admit that you do get very clearly defined stitches with cotton, but be careful when you’re choosing your
cotton yarn. Lightly twisted cotton yarns with 100% combed cotton fibres are perfect to crochet pleasant to touch amigurumi
toys with, whereas the tightly twisted cotton yarns are very good to crochet durable baskets with.

9: I prefer to use super soft polyester fibrefill for my amigurumi projects, as it’s lightweight, bouncy, washable, long lasting
and it does give your amigurumi a nice & smooth finish with no lumps at all.

10: If I am not crocheting or embroidering the eyes I do prefer to use safety eyes as they lock into place with a backing
washer.

11: Invisible decrease is the best way to crochet your decreases as it leaves a less visible bump in the crocheted fabric. You
will be doing a lot of increasing & decreasing when crocheting amigurumi. I’ve done my best to explain them both below as
simple as possible.

Invisible decrease: Insert the hook into the **front loop** of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). **Do NOT yarn over**
Insert the hook into the **front loop** of the next stitch. In order to do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you
can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook)

Yarn over & draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook)

Yarn over & draw through both loops on the hook. You’ve done your invisible decrease.

Increase: Two single crochet into one stitch.

12: To conclude good to know section I would like to tell you how to read my patterns with a simple example.

3 sc, *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times, 3 sc

Single crochet in each of next 3 stitches, *single crochet in each of next 2 stitches, increase* repeat 6 times, single crochet
in each of next 3 stitches.

Only repeat what is written between the two stars. In this case it’s *2 sc, inc *

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 Pattern

**Important Please Read Before Start Crocheting**

Although 3.50mm hook is the most common size to be used while crocheting amigurumi with an aran / worsted weight yarn, having tried them both
3.00mm & 3.50mm I’ve decided to use 3.00mm hook in my amigurumi projects as I like the look of the stitches more. Plus I feel more comfortable
crocheting with 3.00mm than 3.50mm hook.

I suggest that you try them both 3.00mm, 3.50mm to find out which size you are most comfortable crocheting your amigurumi with. If you think
3.50mm is too small for you then try 4.00mm or 4.25 mm to see which one is best for you.

Small Straight Bunny

Legs & Body Step One

Colour: Paper White

1: Magic ring & 5 sc into the ring [5 sts]

2: Increase 5 times [10 sts]

3-12: Sc around (10 rounds in total) [10 sts]

We’ve now finished the first leg. Cut a couple of inches / 5 cm long yarn tail to fasten off and set the leg aside for now.

Crochet one more leg and once you’ve done the 12th round, do NOT cut the yarn carry on following the pattern.

13: We have now completed the second leg. We have two legs and we need to join the two legs together in order to crochet the body. Here are the
steps you need to follow. You can also see the photos below (on the page five)

Step 1: Chain 3

Step 2: Take the first leg & crochet 10 sc around it. When you crochet the first sc, place your stitch marker into the first stitch.

Step 3: Crochet 3 sc (one sc into every chain stitch / we have 3 chain stitches)

Step 4: We are now crocheting around the second leg 10 sc

Step 5: Working on the other side of the chain. Crochet 3 sc (one sc into every chain stitch / we have 3 chain stitches) [26 sts]

After the step 5 we have 26 stitches in total.

Fill the both legs with fibrefill now and carry on adding more stuffing inside the body as you crochet the other rounds.

14-21: Sc around (8 rounds in total) [26 sts]

22: 5 sc, inv dec, 11 sc, inv dec, 6 sc [24 sts]

23: Sc around [24 sts]

24: *inv dec, 6 sc* rep 3 times [21 sts]

25: Sc around [21 sts] Remember to add stuffing as you crochet.

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1st photo on the left is to show you the 3 chains once the second leg is competed.

2nd photo is to show you to insert your hook into the first sc stitch of the first leg while the loop from the last of the 3 chains is still on the hook to
crochet your first sc.

Once you’ve done the first sc to join the two legs together place your stitch marker into the first sc st as you see in the photo left above.

Once you have joined the two legs together & crocheted 26 sc stitches all around, thread the tiny yarn tail coming from the 1st leg onto a yarn needle &
weave in by going through the stitches towards the second leg and drop the yarn tail into the second leg.

Legs & body pattern is carrying on below

26: *5 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [18 sts]

27: Sc around [18 sts]

28: *inv dec, 4 sc* rep 3 times [15 sts] slip stitch to finish.

Cut a long enough yarn tail to sew head & body together. Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle & bring it out from the next stitch by inserting the
needle from back to front of the next stitch.

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 Head Step Two

Colour: Paper White

13: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [30 sts]
1: Magic ring & 6 sc into it [6 sts]
At this point insert the eyes in between 10th & 11th
2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts] rounds. Leave 7 holes between the 2 eyes.

3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts] 14: *3 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [24 sts]

4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts] 15: *2 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [18 sts]

5: *3 sc, inc* rep 6 times [30 sts} Fill the head with fibrefill.

6: *4 sc, inc* rep 6 times [36 sts] 16: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [15 sts] sl st

7-12: Sc around (6 rounds in total) [36 sts] Cut a small yarn tail to fasten off.

Eyes have been inserted as you see in the photo above. You can also count that I have left 7 holes in between two eyes.

Embroidering the mouth & the eye lashes

It’s now time to embroider the bunny’s facial parts, such as mouth & eye lashes. I am using DMC cotton perle black colour embroidery thread, shade
number: 310 and thickness number is 3. I am using this thread only because this is what I have in my craft box. You can use any kind of embroidery
thread or even floss would do the same job.

I have taken step by step photos to show you how to finish the bunny’s face neatly. You will need 50 cm / 20 inches long thread to embroider the
whole facial parts.

Thread the your embroidery floss / thread on a yarn needle & we are ready to go 

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Follow the photos from left to right. Head is done & filled. I’ve put 7 pins to mark the places that will be used to embroider the bunny’s facial parts.

Insert your needle from the open bottom of the head. Leave a 5 cm / 2” long tail dangling out. Bring your needle out from the hole numbered as 1.
Insert the needle into hole numbered as 2 & come out from number 1. Go in & out number 1 & 2 three times.

Your needle is now coming out of the hole numbered as 1. Insert it into the hole numbered as 2, but bring it out from the middle hole in between
number 1 & 2. Insert the needle down into the third hole to create straight / vertical bar. Then bring the needle out from the hole numbered 4.

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Insert the needle into the hole numbered as 5 & bring it out from the hole numbered as 6. Insert the needle into the hole numbered as 7 and bring it
out from the open bottom of the head.

2 cotton thread tails are coming out and I’m holding the tread tails to show you the finished
face.

Make a couple of tight knots to secure the facial parts. Cut the excessive thread tails. All done  Ready to sew head & body together 

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Sewing head & body together
In order to be able to sew head & body together nice & steady / wobble free; first put a little bit more stuffing inside the head. Start sewing the head
and body together and stop half way to add as much stuffing as necessary without putting too much or too less. Then you are good to go. Finish
sewing and then fasten off.

Ears Step Three

Colour: Paper White / Make Two

1: Magic ring & 5 sc into it [5 sts]

2: *inc* rep 5 times [10 sts]

3: *sc, inc* rep 5 times [15 sts]

4-7: Sc around (4 rounds in total) [15 sts]

8: *3 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [12 sts]

9: Sc around [12 sts]

10: *inv dec, 4 sc* rep twice [10 sts]

11: Sc around [10 sts]

12: *inv dec, 3 sc* rep twice [8 sts]

13: Sc around [8 sts]

We now need to flatten the ear and to do that; crochet just one
slip stitch. Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing. Thread the
yarn onto a yarn needle; insert the needle inside the next hole
Sew the ears in between the 3rd & 7th rounds; counting from the top / first
from inside out to bring the yarn tail out for sewing. Press &
round / 6 sc in the magic ring.
shape the ear with your fingers.

No need to put any stuffing inside the ears.

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 Arms Step Four

Colour: Paper White / Make Two

1: Magic ring & 6 sc into it [6 sts]

2-16: Sc around (15 rounds in total) [6 sts]

No need to fill the arms with fibrefill.

17: We will now flatten the arm; and to do that, simply push the top (open end) flat. We now have 3 stitches on each side. Just crochet 3 sc over the
both sides of the flatten piece.

When you need to crochet over the both sides of a flatten piece, insert your hook under both sc sts you have on the both sides of the piece as you see
in the photo below. Then carry on crocheting normal single crochet stitches. Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.

I’ve sewn the arms in between the last two rounds of the body and
I’ve used 4 holes to sew each arm to the body.

Tail Step Five Scarf Step Six

Colour: Paper White Colour: Washed Teal
1: Magic ring & 6 sc into it [6 sts] Crocheting with 4.50mm hook
2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts] Make a slip knot & crochet 50 chain stitches. Turn the back side of the
3: *3 sc, inc* rep 3 times [15 sts] chain where you will see horizontal stitches look like the runner stitches
as you see in the photo below. Needle is to show you both horizontal stitch
4: Sc around [15 sts] and the 4th st, and then half double crochet into the 4th horizontal stitch to
create a button hole.
5: *sc, inv dec* rep 5 times [10 sts] sl st
Carry on crocheting half double crochet until the end of the chain. Cut a
Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing. Put a tiny bit
tiny yarn tail to sew the button on the edge of the scarf. I used a 1.50 cm
stuffing inside the tail. Bring the yarn tail out from
plastic button, but you can use any button you have in your button jar.
the next stitch.
Wrap the scarf twice around the bunny’s neck and button it up.

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First photo on the left above is to show you the back side of the chains and also to show you the 4 th stitch to make the first half double crochet stitch.

Second photo is to show you the tail of the bunny.

You can see bunny’s tail from the side in the photo left above. All done now you have finished your baby bunny. Congratulations.

Let’s crochet the large bunny now, shall we 

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 Large Straight Bunny

Legs & Body Step One

Colour: Paper White

Same as the small bunny, we will start crocheting the big bunny from the legs and then join the legs together, then carry on crocheting the body.

Numbers are of course different as this bunny is bigger, but the methods are the same. So, let’s get started, shall we 

1: Magic ring and 6 sc into it [6 sts]

2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts]

3-20: Sc around (18 rounds in total) [12 sts] Once you’ve crocheted 10 rounds, stop & put some fibrefill into the leg. Crochet the next 8 rounds and put
some more fibrefill into the leg.

Cut a small yarn tail for fastening off. Set the first leg aside for now and make another leg.

21: Second leg is done now. We’ll join the legs just like we did with the small bunny.

Chain 6

12 sc around the first leg (remember to place your stitch mark once you’ve done the first sc)

6 sc (sc into every chain)

12 sc around the second leg

6 sc (sc into every chain)

Once we’ve joined the legs we should have 36 sts in total [36 sts]

Weave the tiny yarn coming from the first leg tail inside stitches & drop it into the second leg, same as we did with the small bunny.

22-35: Sc around (14 rounds in total) [36 sts] Start filling the body and keep adding more stuffing as you crochet the other rounds.

36: *10 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [33 sts]

37: Sc around [33 sts]

38: *9 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [30 sts]

39: Sc around [30 sts]

40: *8 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [27 sts]

41: Sc around [27 sts]

42: *7 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [24 sts]

43: Sc around [24 sts]

44: *6 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [21 sts]

45: *5 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [18 sts] sl st

Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing head & body together. Bring the yarn tail out from the next stitch.
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 Head Step Two

Colour: Paper White Insert the eyes in between 14th & 15th rounds; start counting from the
1: Magic ring & 6 sc into it [6 sts] top / beginning.

2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts] Leave 11 holes in between two eyes.

3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts] 19: *6 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [42 sts]

4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts] 20: *5 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [36 sts]

5: *3 sc, inc* rep 6 times [30 sts] 21: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [30 sts]

6: *4 sc, inc* rep 6 times [36 sts] Start filling the head with fibrefill.

7: *5 sc, inc* rep 6 times [42 sts] 22: *3 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [24 sts]

8: *6 sc, inc* rep 6 times [48 sts] 23: *2 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [18 sts]

9-18: Sc around (10 rounds in total) [48 sts] Sl st, cut a little yarn tail to fasten off. Add a bit more stuffing.

Eyes are inserted as you can see in the 1st photo on the left above.

As for the second photo, facial part are marked with the yellow
pins.

You’ll need to use 5 holes for the nose and then come down into
the 4th hole to create the mouth.

As for the eyebrows; they are embroidered in between the 7 th &

12th rounds (counting from the top) You’ll need to leave 3 holes in
between the two eyebrows.

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 Arms Step Three Tail Step Four

Colour: Paper White, Make Two Colour: Paper White

1: Magic ring & 8 sc into it [8 sts] 1: Magic ring & 6 sc into it [6 sts]

2-23: Sc around (22 rounds in total) [8 sts] 2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts]

After the 10th round is done put a little bit of stuffing 3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts]
into the tip of the arm / hand. After that no more
4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts]
stuffing is needed.
5-6: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [24 sts]
24: Push the open end together and crochet 4 sc
over the single crochet stitches you have on the 7: *inv dec* rep 12 times [12 sts] sl st
both sides. [4 sts]
Put some stuffing into the tail.
Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.
Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.

Ears Step Five

Colour: Paper White, Make Two

12: *5 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [18 sts]
1: Magic ring & 6 sc into it [6 sts]
13: Sc around [18 sts]
2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts]
14: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [15 sts]
3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts]
15-16: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [15 sts]
4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts]
17: *3 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [12 sts]
5-9: Sc around (5 rounds in total) [24 sts]
18-19: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [12 sts]
10: *6 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [21 sts]
Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.
11: Sc around [21 sts]

Ears Step Five

Colour: Washed Teal

With 4.50 mm hook, chain 4, turn back and crochet 3 sc, turn back again 3 sc...Carry on like this until your scarf is 25” / 64 cm long. Wrap it around
bunny’s neck twice and tie it on the front, or shape it however you wish  All done now 

Assembling the large bunny

Step 1: Sew head & body together.

Step 2: Sew the ears on bunny’s head in between the 3rd & 9th rounds.

Step 3: Sew the arms on each side of the bunny in between the last two rounds on the body by using 5 holes.

Step 4: Find the best place for the tail and sew it on the bottom of the bunny’s body.

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Congratulations  you’ve now finished your small & large bunnies  Hope you’ve enjoyed crocheting them.

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