Design Capsule A/W 20/21: Men / Young Men

Soft Grunge

Rolling Stone @marni

As young men dig deeper into alternative 1990s archives, we deliver a nostalgic design
package for you to develop a casual capsule collection
 Action Points
Soft Grunge explores alternative mid-1990s style
through a contemporary lens, borrowing ideas from one
of the era's most pervasive subcultures and reinterpreting
it for the modern consumer.
1. Take time to explore the more obscure and rare
imagery from the 1990s and allow these throwback
references to inspire authentic fits and finishes.
2. Move fits away from the obvious, lending tops and
trousers a new context. Jeans are wider and have a
slouchier fit, while jackets are boxier and feel youthful.
3. Washes become more dirty and gritty with tinted
shades and natural wear patterns that give items a
well-loved feel.
4. Use prints and novelty washes that nod to
nostalgic 1990s cultural references as a way to embed
items with a sense of storytelling.
5. Repackage old favourites such as work jackets and
parkas, tweaking fit, detail and colour to signal the
convergence of streetwear with vintage looks.

@marni
Mood & Colour *19-4027 TCX ^120-25-21

*17-4028 TCX ^121-42-19

Soundgarden

*14-4121 TCX 117-71-18

*11-4601 TCX ^076-91-00

Gallery Dept.

Soundgarden
*16-1120 TCX ^035-62-11
Why? As #90sgrunge references continue to
trend on the Fashion Feed, this dark side of the
story feels grown-up with a nostalgic mix of
pattern clashes and sludgy colours. This is an
easy update to follow for the mass market, as
*17-1105 TCX ^027-58-04
premium menswear brands give the look an
elevated identity.
How? Opt for loose fits and faded retro mid-
tones. Make collegiate prints, embroideries and
*19-0814 TCX ^029-28-08
letterman appliqués feel new by using updated
placements and subject material.
Drop: Autumn Transitional
*19-0303 TCX ^139-18-00
@drunkkurt Marni

* Pantone / ^ Coloro
Loose Fit

@marni Loose Fit

This low slung, relaxed style offers a fashion-forward way to incorporate

oversized jeans into a collection. A square top-block with low rise allows it to
be worn high-waisted instead of off the hip. Gentle volume through the thigh
emphasises the baggy fit.
The loose, nostalgic fit calls for authentic 100% cotton in open-end weaves
for a true vintage character. Soft-focus stonewashes look best with subtle
dirtied tints, while overdye snow-wash effects add a fashion-forward feel to
this shape.

Mood Our Legacy

Grunge Jean

@undercover_lab Grunge Jean

While loose fits are a 1990s signature, this tapered jean is a good
representation of how traditionally grunge items are remixed within this
story. Give it further commercial appeal with comfort stretch denim that has
a true vintage character and allows for authentic finishes and distressing
without the ugly Spandex frays.
The fit is amended to a slimmer, tapered cut to align with current skate and
streetwear looks. Update the item with decorative details such as colourful
repairs on the distressing and released hems for contrast.

@virgilabloh @samutaro
Anti-Fit Trucker

Our Legacy Anti-Fit Trucker

The obsession with near-nostalgia vintage among designers such as Virgil

Abloh, Mike Amiri and Jerry Lorenzo gives the trusty trucker a new lease of
life. A 1990s thrift sensibility is channelled through dropped-shoulder seams
and voluminous sleeves. Draw the waist in higher and add width to the body
to give the item an anti-fit shape.
You can achieve these vintage looks through modern finishing technologies
such as laser and ozone, as proven by Levi's FLX wash programme. They will
dramatically reduce your environmental impact while appearing authentic.

Fear of God @levis

Work Jacket

Beastie Boys

Work Jacket

The Carhartt jacket was a staple for grunge

artists and skaters in the 1990s, so revive the
style for a new generation of youths.
The blouson shape has a cropped boxy fit with
zip-through closure. Simple details such as cord
colours and hip pockets keep it low-key and
functional. Use washed denim or canvas to
keep the look rugged.

John Elliott & Co River Phoenix @stussy

Parka

Raf Simons

Parka

Another staple of the 1990s, the parka is a

popular alternative outerwear piece that looks
fresh in denim constructions.
Take inspiration from the archives of designers
such as Raf Simons, who uses vintage record-
sleeve artwork as a way to embed items with an
#artinfashion sentiment. Utility detailing helps
styles hold onto their military heritage, while
upcycled patchwork extends the item outside of
its classic palette.

@drunkkurt 424 on Fairfax

Raf Simmons
 Range Plan

Work Jacket

Grunge Jean Loose Fit Parka

Anti-Fit Trucker
 Influences
3 Marni
Francesco Risso looked to neuro-
tribe movements emerging from
the streets for A/W 19/20, one of
which was Kurt Cobain-inspired
style.

2 @drunkkurt
Instagram is a hotbed of throwback
Nirvana inspiration, but this account has
rare images from the band's gigs,
photoshoots and candid photos.
1 Our Legacy
The Swedish label effortlessly imbue its
collections with subtle grunge references
that offer an elevated take on nostalgia.

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