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Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Food Quality and Preference


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/foodqual

Beverage perception and consumption: The influence of the container


on the perception of the contents
Charles Spence a,⇑, Xiaoang Wan b
a
Crossmodal Research Laboratory, Department of Experimental Psychology, University of Oxford, UK
b
Department of Psychology, School of Social Sciences, Tsinghua University, China

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Drinking, unlike eating, always involves direct contact with the container in which a drink happens to be
Received 16 May 2014 held. In our everyday lives, we typically consume beverages from glasses, cups, mugs, cans, bottles, and
Received in revised form 4 July 2014 via straws. In this article, we consider the impact that the physical and sensory properties of a drink’s
Accepted 7 July 2014
container can have on people’s perception of the contents. We investigate what happens to the percep-
Available online 17 July 2014
tion of a beverage when the appropriateness of the container (to the contents) is varied. Furthermore, we
also review the latest evidence showing that people’s consumption behaviours can be influenced by the
Keywords:
shape of the cup or glass. The vessel in which a drink is consumed has been shown to affect everything
Flavour
Taste
from a consumer’s hedonic response to the beverage through to how refreshing they find it. Taken
Crossmodal together, then, the available evidence currently supports the view that the vessels from which we drink
Sensation transference exert a far greater influence over our perception of the sensory and hedonic qualities of the contents, and
Hedonic on our consumption behaviours, than is often realized. Finally, some of the current marketing opportu-
Container nities in the area of branded and sensorially enhanced glassware are highlighted.
Ó 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Contents

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
On the appropriateness of the receptacle to the contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
On the shape/type of receptacle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
On the shape of the wine glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Sensation transference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
On the colour of the container . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
On the feel of the drinking vessel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Interim summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Drinking vessels and consumption behaviour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Conclusions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139

Introduction from the perceptual question, one can also ask whether people’s
consumption behaviours are influenced by the receptacle or means
Whenever we drink, our experience is always mediated by the of consumption as well. The emerging body of evidence reviewed
form of the receptacle in which that drink is contained. One might here supports the view that the vessels from which we drink exert
ask, therefore, just how much of an impact on our perception of a a much more significant effect on our perception of the sensory
beverage the glasses, cups, mugs, cans, bottles (and straws) from qualities of drinks than many people would intuitively guess. In
which we often drink actually have. Furthermore, and separate this article, we review the literature regarding how the
appropriateness of the drinking container to the contents can also
⇑ Corresponding author. Address: Department of Experimental Psychology, affect everything from how much a drink is liked through to how
University of Oxford, Oxford OX1 3UD, UK. refreshing the consumer finds it. We also look at the question of
E-mail address: charles.spence@psy.ox.ac.uk (C. Spence). whether the shape of the drinking vessel can also influence our

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2014.07.007
0950-3293/Ó 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
132 C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140

consumption behaviours. Given the growing realization of just with a particular drink colour. So, in a series of cross-cultural stud-
how important the container can be to determining the consumer’s ies, the same 7 drinks were presented in three different types of
perception of, and response to, the contents, marketers are increas- glass to participants from mainland China, the USA, the UK, South
ingly starting to think about the opportunities associated with the Korea, and India (see Fig. 1). The results revealed that the same
introduction of signature branded glassware that, ideally, conveys beverage colour sometimes set up distinctly different flavour
some functional and/or perceptual benefit when it comes to the expectations depending on both the type of receptacle and the cul-
consumer’s experience of the contents (e.g., Stead, Angus, tural background of the participants (see also Shankar, Levitan, &
Macdonald, & Bauld, 2014). Spence, 2010). To give an illustrative example, the Chinese partic-
ipants exhibited different colour–flavour associations for the
On the appropriateness of the receptacle to the contents green-coloured drinks presented in the water or wine glasses from
those seen in the participants from the USA, while showing similar
A number of researchers have investigated the consequences for flavour expectations when the very same green drink was pre-
the drinking experience that are associated with serving a drink from sented in the cocktail glass (Wan, Woods, Seoul, Butcher, &
a container that is appropriate versus one that is inappropriate. Nor- Spence, in press; Wan et al., 2014).
mally, what counts as ‘appropriate’ here is often determined by a rich
history of previous experience drinking particular beverages from On the shape of the wine glass
specific receptacles (see Standage, 2007). For instance, in one study,
61 participants rated hot chocolate, beer, and orange juice samples One drinking receptacle that has undoubtedly received far more
served in containers (a cup, bottle, or glass) that were either congru- research interest than any other is the wine glass (see Spence,
ent or incongruent with the participants’ everyday experience of 2011, for a review). That said, the results of the extensive body
drinking these beverages (Raudenbush, Meyer, Eppich, Corley, & of research in this area are, on the surface at least, somewhat con-
Petterson, 2002). Interestingly, the hot chocolate was rated as tasting tradictory: while a number of studies have demonstrated that the
significantly more pleasant when served in a ceramic cup (mean rat- same wine will be rated very differently when served in different
ing of 6.8 on an 11-point pleasantness scale) than when served in wine glasses (e.g., Anon, 1973; Fischer, 1996; see also Anon,
either the glass (M = 6.3) or the bottle (M = 6.4). While this change 2011c; Cloake, 2012; Gawel, 2010; McCarthy, 2006), others have
might not seem that large (0.45 point change on an 11-point scale), reported that people are unable to detect any perceptible
it is worth remembering that the participants in this study were difference between samples of the same wine when evaluated in
informed what they would be drinking at the start of each trial. It different wine glasses (e.g., Postgate, 1951). According to Spence,
would seem likely that the detrimental consequences of serving a these differing results can be made sense of if one takes into
hot beverage in a product-incongruent container might be larger account the differing conditions utilized by the researchers in the
under those conditions in which the consumer is surprised to find various studies.
that the contents do not match the expectations set by the container It would appear as though whenever a person can see and/or
(see also Cardello, Maller, Bloom-Masor, Dubose, & Edelman, 1985; physically interact with the wine glass when rating the sensory
Deliza & MacFie, 1997; Schifferstein, 2001). Generally-speaking, properties of the wine contained within, then the shape and/or size
serving a drink from the appropriate vessel may come, over time, of the glass will impact their ratings of the contents (Cliff, 2001;
to enhance the drinker’s experience of the contents by a process of Hummel, Delwiche, Schmidt, & Hüttenbrink, 2003; Russell,
associative learning (Pearce & Bouton, 2001). Note also that accord- Zivanovic, Morris, Penfield, & Weiss, 2005; Vilanova, Vidal, &
ing to the literature on the ‘mere exposure effect’ (e.g., Harrison, Cortés, 2008). Indeed, a highly profitable industry has developed
1977; Jakesch & Carbon, 2012; Pliner, 1982; Suzuki & Gyoba, 2008; around the matching of specific glass shapes to particular types
Zajonc, 1968, 1980, 2001), those stimuli or, in this case, those specific of wine or even grape varieties (Cloake, 2012; Stead et al.,
combinations of stimuli (i.e., vessel and typical contents), that a per- 2014).1 However, that said, under those strictly controlled labora-
son is exposed to on a regular basis become more familiar, and at the tory conditions in which a participant’s awareness of the glass in
same time more liked (see Gallace & Spence, 2014, for a review). which a wine is presented, or has been stored, are removed, then
We believe that there are a number of interesting cross-cultural no detectable difference in people’s ratings of the sensory properties
questions to be addressed in this area (see also Wan, Zhou, Mu, Du, of the wine is reported (see Delwiche & Pelchat, 2001; Delwiche &
& Spence, in preparation). For example, if one takes a drink such as Pelchat, 2002; Russell et al., 2005).
gin and tonic, then the appropriate glassware in the UK, not to In one of the largest laboratory studies to have been conducted
mention in many other markets is the highball or collins glass. That in this area, Hummel et al. (2003) gave nearly 200 untrained
said, the Spanish and Latin American market for this drink has been participants a red wine (a Cabernet Sauvignon) and a white wine
revolutionized in recent years in part by the introduction of the (a Chardonnay) to evaluate from one of four different glasses.
balloon copa glass (e.g., Anon, 2013). Hence people in different One wine glass had straight sides, another had a V, or tulip-like
parts of the world might have very different ideas about what shape, while the other two had a bulbous shape (somewhat wider
the most appropriate glassware for this particular drink is. Or, to at the bottom than at the top) – one small glass for the white wine
take another example, one can imagine how consumers of different and the larger one for the red wine (see Fig. 2A). Despite these dif-
age groups living in developing countries (e.g., such as China) will ferences, the glasses were all equally tall and had a comparable
likely have had different life experiences (e.g., Shu & Zhu, 2009). opening diameter. The participants first had to rate the intensity
Hence, it is quite possible that consumers from different cultures of the odour by sniffing the wine in the glass and then indicating
and/or age groups may also hold very different views about the how much they liked it. Next, they tasted the wine, and rated it
appropriateness of a given container for a particular drink (see also once again.
Barford & Rohrer, 2014).
1
‘‘Riedel initiated a new science of what you could call the interface between wine and
On the shape/type of receptacle drinker: the contact between wine glass and mouth. A different radius of curve or a
different contour of bowl, he claimed, changes the flow of liquid as it comes in contact with
your lips, gums, teeth, tongue and palate. He not only claimed but also demonstrated, with
Recent research has demonstrated that the shape/type of con- most persuasive salesmanship, that you can alter the impact, and hence the flavours, by
tainer can also influence the flavour that we happen to associate directing the wine to this part or that of the mouth.’’ (Johnson, 2005, p. 75).
C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140 133

Fig. 1. Pictures of drinks in seven different colours presented in three types of glasses in Wan et al. (2014) study to participants from three different countries. (For
interpretation of the references to colour in this figure legend, the reader is referred to the web version of this article.)

Generally speaking, the bulbous glasses gave rise to the highest shape of the glass? Research by Vilanova et al. (2008) suggests that
ratings of odour intensity, both before and after tasting. There was indeed they are (or at least can be). In one study, six sweet wines
also a trend toward the wines being preferred (i.e., liked more) when from Galicia, were evaluated in nine different glasses (see
they were tasted in these glasses as well. The wines presented in the Fig. 2B). The participants who were all professional wine tasters
straight-sided glass were also rated as having a more intense sour had to rate the intensity and quality of the aroma and taste of each
taste than those evaluated in the other glasses. However, some of glass of wine on an 11-point scale. Even though the tasters were
the strongest support for the claim that the shape of the wine glass aware that they would be evaluating exactly the same wine in each
affects the perception of a wine’s aroma came from the fact that the session, their aroma ratings still varied by as much as 1.8 points on
tasters generated significantly more verbal descriptors when evalu- a 10-point rating scale as a function of the glass that the wine hap-
ating the wine served in the bulbous glasses. Such a result suggests pened to be served in. Once again, bulbous glasses gave rise to the
that the wine’s aroma was perceived as somewhat more complex. highest ratings of the wine (the winning glass in this study is
However, perhaps the most interesting result emerged when the shown third from the right in Fig. 2B). Interestingly, the glasses
participants were asked how many different wines they had tasted exerted more of an influence on the wine tasters’ aroma judgments
during the course of the experiment – most said two or three. That than on their judgments of its taste. Thus, it would appear as
is, they thought that they were judging a different wine when though social drinkers’, oenology students’, and professional wine
exactly the same wine was served in a different glass. tasters’ ratings of a wine’s aroma, flavour, and, to a lesser extent,
Meanwhile, Cliff (2001) tested eighteen students on an its taste can all be significantly influenced by the dimensions of
oenology and viticulture degree course using three glasses: a the glass in which it happens to be served.
tulip-shaped Chardonnay glass, a bowl-shaped Burgundy glass, Fischer and Loewe-Stanienda (1999) reported that the
and a standard egg-shaped international tasting glass (ISO 3591; perceived intensity of a wine’s odour increases as the ratio
as approved by the International Standards Organization). The stu- between the opening of the glass and its largest diameter
dents worked in pairs, one swirling the glass under the nose of increases. On the one hand, a larger surface area may well promote
their blindfolded accomplice. Their task was to rate the fruitiness the oxidation of the wine, while on the other, if a glass has a small
(for white) or vegetativeness (for red), volatility, and overall inten- opening, a wine taster may simply find it impossible to simulta-
sity of one red (Cabernet Franc) and one white (Riesling) wine neously sniff the odour while tasting the wine. This might well
without being able to either see or touch the glasses.2 Under such be expected to have an effect on their overall perception of a wine’s
conditions, the shape of the glass did not influence the students’ per- aroma, since one and the same odour can appear very different as a
ception of the fruitiness (white), vegetativeness (red), or volatile function of whether it happens to be experienced orthonasally (i.e.,
acidity of the wines. However, the total aroma intensity ratings for when sniffing) or retronasally (e.g., when the odour reaches the
both wines were significantly higher (by up to 10%, though from posterior nares after swallowing; Rozin, 1982; though see also
the study description itself it is a little hard to know whether the sta- Diaz, 2004; Pierce & Halpern, 1996).
tistics were corrected for multiple comparisons or not) in the red Russell et al. (2005) conducted one of the few published studies
Burgundy glass, and lowest in the Chardonnay glass. that failed to show any effect of glass shape on the perception of
Thus far, we have looked at the effect of the shape of the glass wine when all of the known psychological cues had been removed.
on the perception of social drinkers and oenology students. But Twelve participants had to try to pick out the odd one of three
would more experienced wine tasters be similarly affected by the beakers of wine in a triangle test. The wine, a Merlot, was kept in
one of three differently-shaped glasses (see Fig. 2C) for 0, 15, or
2
Note that ethyl acetate was added to some of the wines (at 200 ppm) in order to 30 min. In order to prevent any bias that might have been induced
synthetically create a defect known as volatile acidity. The wines were poured into by seeing/handling the glasses themselves, the tasters evaluated
the glasses an hour before their evaluation.
134 C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140

Finally in this section, it is worth describing the results of a study


conducted by Delwiche and Pelchat (2002). These researchers uti-
lized a wine tasting procedure that enabled them to focus solely
on the contents of the wine glass (see Fig. 2D). They had blind-
folded, naïve, non-expert wine-drinkers sniff a red wine (Cabernet
Sauvignon) and a white wine (Chardonnay) which were presented
in four different types of glass to evaluate the wine’s aroma, while
the distance between them and the wine was kept constant with
each participant’s head being positioned in a headrest. The results
revealed that the type of glass had no influence on most aspects
of the perceived wine aroma, though the Bordeaux glass did reduce
the perceived intensity of the wine’s aroma somewhat.
How, then, should the seeming contradiction between research
demonstrating a significant effect of glass shape/size on wine per-
ception on the one hand, and the other studies claiming to show
that people cannot tell any difference be resolved? This apparent
discrepancy can, we would argue, be sorted out by taking a closer
look at the methods used in the various studies. For it turns out
that the literature can be more or less neatly summarized by say-
ing that people find it much more difficult to distinguish between
wines served/stored in different glasses if they are not allowed to
see/touch them (Cliff, 2001; Delwiche & Pelchat, 2002; Russell
et al., 2005). By contrast, in pretty much every study in which
the participants have been allowed to hold the wine glasses, much
larger (and significant) effects of the glass on the sensory proper-
ties of the wine have typically been observed (e.g., Fischer &
Loewe-Stanienda, 1999; Vilanova, Vidal, & Cortés, 2008).
These various results are most consistent with the view that the
influence of the glass on the perception of the wine has more of a
psychological, rather than a chemical or physical, origin (Spence,
2011).3 It may be reasonable to speculate that the influence of the
glass on the subjective rating of the wine is a conscious multisensory
process that involves the direct (visual and/or haptic) perception of
the glass as well as any awareness that the participant may have
about the (meaning and associations of the) glass itself. Of course,
given that the consumer will nearly always be aware of the particular
glass from which he or she happens to be drinking wine, spending on
the ‘right’ glassware is probably going to be justified, especially when
it is realized that the differences in the rating of the aroma of the very
same wine in excess of 150% have, on occasion, been reported when
assessed in different types of wine glass (see Fischer & Loewe-
Stanienda, 1999; see also Vilanova et al., 2008). Educating the drinker
Fig. 2. (A) Four wine glasses (straight-sided, v-shaped, and bulbous, small and as to the fact that much of the effect of different glassware may be
large) used in Hummel et al.’s (2003) study; (B) the nine glasses used in Vilanova squarely in their head (i.e., psychological, rather than physic-
et al.’s (2008) study of the effect of glass shape on sweet wine; (C) the three glasses chemical, in origin) could also be a worthwhile endeavour.
(Bordeaux/Flute, Bordeaux/Martini, or Flute/Martini) in which the wine was kept
prior to testing in Russell et al.’s (2005) study; (D) the scientific approach to the
However, one question that undoubtedly deserves further
study of the impact of the wine glass on aroma perception utilized by Delwiche and research attention bears on the fact that it is currently unclear as
Pelchat (2002). The participants in this study were not allowed to see or feel the to how much of a difference there may be between wine experts
glass that they were sniffing from. The glasses were mounted on a mechanical and social drinkers in terms of the importance of the glassware
swirling device to enhance the release of volatile odour molecules. Consequently,
to the sensory experience of the wine contained within. One test-
any effects of glass shape on aroma perception could be unequivocally attributed to
the physical (rather than the psychological) effect of the glassware. able hypothesis here would be to conduct a between-participants
experiment in order to investigate whether experts’ ratings of
10-mL wine samples taken from the various glasses but served to the same set of drinks served from the same set of glasses are influ-
them in identical 50-mL beakers. The tasters swirled the wines in enced more than those of social drinkers by any variations in glass-
their mouths for at least 15 s before evaluating them, and then ware. One would presumably expect any such differences that
expectorating. While high-performance liquid chromatography were to show up to be more apparent when the drinks/glassware
revealed measurable differences between the wines that had been combinations fall within the expert groups stated area of expertise
stored in the different glasses, the participants themselves were
simply unable to pick out the odd wine out at a level that was sig- 3
Contrast this with previous suggestions that differing glass shapes may serve to
nificantly above chance. This was true even if one glass was from a distribute their contents differently over the surface of the taster’s tongue (e.g.,
newly-opened bottle, whereas the other two samples were from Peynaud, 1987). Instrumental measurements have now clearly demonstrated differ-
wines that had been stored in the glass for 30 min. That said, the ences in the volatiles in the headspace of a glass, both for still (e.g., Hirson, Heymann,
much smaller sample size of participants in this study as compared & Ebeler, 2012) and sparkling wine (Liger-Belair, Bourget, Pron, Polidori, & Cilindre,
2012). Differences, needless to say, that change as a function of the amount of time
to certain of the other studies discussed earlier might well raise the
that a given drink happens to have been sitting in a particular glass (e.g., Hirson et al.,
concern that this latter study may have simply been underpowered 2012). However, whether such differences are perceptible to the consumer is clearly a
in terms of detecting a significant effect. very different question.
C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140 135

(e.g., wine or beer). Certainly, in previous research experts have ‘affective ventriloquism’ when referring specifically to hedonic
been shown to be more affected by various product-extrinsic cues transfer effects (see Spence & Gallace, 2011). In the sections that
than are non-experts (see, for example, Pangborn, Berg, & Hansen, follow, we review the evidence concerning the impact of varying
1963; Parr, White, & Heatherbell, 2003). different aspects of the drinking vessel on people’s perception of
The size, shape, weight, and even the colour of a wine glass (see the contents. Note that, in contrast to the studies reviewed earlier,
below) have all been shown to impact our perception of the taste where it was the appropriateness of the drinking receptacle to the
and flavour of wine. To date, the available research suggests that contents that was assessed, the studies reviewed below would
the shape and dimensions of the glass primarily affect the overall appear to be driven by a much more basic response to the sensory
intensity of the aroma, rather than necessarily enhancing or mask- attributes of the container or drinking vessel.
ing any specific aroma notes. Across a number of studies, the high-
est aroma intensities have typically been documented when the On the colour of the container
wines concerned have been served in glasses where the maximum
diameter/opening diameter ratio is highest. Put simply, a large Piqueras-Fiszman and Spence (2012a) demonstrated that peo-
diameter encourages volatilization of the odour compounds, while ple’s perception of the flavour in a hot chocolate beverage was
a narrow opening helps to retain those odour compounds in the influenced by the colour of the plastic cup (white, dark cream,
glass (Fischer & Loewe-Stanienda, 1999; Spence, 2011). orange, and red, as shown in Fig. 3) in which the drink was pre-
Finally in this section it is worth mentioning recent research on sented. Interestingly, the beverage was liked more when served
the free sorting of wine glasses that has also highlighted the impor- in the red cup than when served in the white cup, whereas the
tance of the shape of the glass (Faye, Courcoux, Giboreau, & orange cup (with a white interior) enhanced the chocolate flavour
Qannari, 2013). In this study, a total of 209 participants with varied when compared to either the red or white cup. Finally, the dark-
age, gender, profession, and normal wine consumption were classi- cream coloured cup subtly enhanced the sweetness and chocolate
fied into three groups based on their knowledge of wine, including aroma when comparing to the red cup.
connoisseurs, intermediates, and non connoisseurs. The partici- At this point, it is important to be clear on exactly what aspect
pants were shown colour photographs of 30 different wine glasses of the drinker’s response to the drinking vessel is being transferred
with varied size, volume, and design. They were then asked to freely to their ratings of the contents (or of the overall drinking experi-
sort these glasses into mutually exclusive categories and to use ence). It would seem unlikely that the participants in Piqueras-
their own language to describe the categories so formed. The results Fiszman and Spence’s study simply liked the red colour more than
revealed that the connoisseurs sorted the glasses based on their the colour scheme of any of the other three cups (though in the
usage and technical characteristics (e.g., angular or widened base), absence of empirical data on this point this possibility must at least
whereas the non connoisseurs tended to sort the glasses based remain open). Alternatively, however, it could also be argued that
mainly on more basic properties of the designs and shapes of the the colour red is the warmest of the colours, whereas the other
glasses, thus suggesting an important influence of previous knowl- three are all much colder colours (see Ho, Van Doorn, Kawabe,
edge and experience on people’s perception of the wine glass. Watanabe, & Spence, 2014). Given that people usually drink hot
Here, it is also worth bearing in mind that the glassware chocolate to keep warm, people might judge such a drink as being
impacts not only a person’s impression of whatever happens to more congruent with the red cup than with any of the others, and
be in the glass, but it can potentially also affect their whole meal hence liked more. In terms of the three kinds of transfer effect one
experience as well as their satisfaction, should they happen to be might see from container to contents, sensory, emotional, or hedo-
drinking wine with dinner, say (Billing, Öström, & Lagerbielke, nic, we would suggest that Piqueras-Fiszman and Spence’s results
2008). It is perhaps also worth noting that advertising and market- might be best explained in terms of emotional transfer.
ing likely play an important role here too. As Cliff (2001, p. 40) puts Elsewhere, Van Doorn, Wuillemin, and Spence (submitted) have
it: ‘‘In fact, the advertising/marketing of wine glasses has been so effec- demonstrated that people’s perception of a warm café latte drink
tive that most wine connoisseurs have a distinct bias towards the can also be affected by the visual appearance of the mug in which
appropriateness of a particular wine glass.’’ the drink happens to be served. These researchers reported that
people rated the intensity of the coffee’s flavour approximately
Sensation transference 2.5 units higher (on a 10-point scale) when the beverage was
served from a white porcelain mug than when exactly the same
The results of many studies now demonstrate that the con- drink was served from a clear glass mug (or from an opaque blue
sumer’s perception of, and feelings about, the sensory properties mug) instead. Now, here, it is at present unclear whether such
of the receptacle in which a drink is presented (e.g., its colour, results are best conceptualized in terms of yet another example
weight, texture etc) can influence their perception of the contents of sensation transference, or whether instead, this may reflect a
by means of what are often referred to as ‘sensation transfer’ more perceptual colour contrast effect between the colour of the
effects (Cheskin, 1957; Spence & Piqueras-Fiszman, 2012), or coffee as perceived against the background of the cup. It is
well-known that changing the colour of a beverage can change
its perceived sweetness. It is also known that colour contrast can
affect the perceived colour of a food or beverage. Distinguishing
between these alternative accounts will undoubtedly prove to be
a worthwhile challenge for future research (e.g., see Bruno,
Martani, Corsini, & Oleari, 2013; Spence, in press).
Meanwhile, Guéguen and Jacob (2012) have reported a crossmo-
dal effect of the colour of a coffee cup on the perceived warmth of
the contents (see also Favre & November, 1979; Ho et al., 2014).
Specifically, they had 120 people drink coffee from four different
coloured cups (i.e., blue, green, yellow, and red). The participants
Fig. 3. Four differently-coloured vending cups used in Piqueras-Fiszman and
Spence’s (2012b) study. Cups from the left to the right were in colour white, cream,
in this study were asked to indicate which coffee was the warmest
orange and red. (For interpretation of the references to color in this figure legend, (in terms of its temperature). Guéguen and Jacob found that 38.3%
the reader is referred to the web version of this article.) of the participants reported that the coffee served from the red cup
136 C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140

was the warmest, followed by yellow (28.3%), green (20.0%) and, need for touch, based on a median split of responses the autotelic
finally, blue (13.3%). Note that these differences were statistically dimension of Peck and Childers (2003) ‘‘Need for Touch’’ question-
significant. Finally, in a recent conference presentation, Risso, naire, were significantly affected in their evaluation of the drink by
Maggiono, Olivero, and Gallace (2014) have also reported a signifi- the feel (i.e., the firmness vs. flimsiness) of the cup, whereas those
cant influence of the colour of the cup on both the perception of car- participants who scored lower on the need for touch scale were
bonation in a drink (noticeably, water samples were rated as more not. The participants rated the drink approximately 8% lower when
carbonated in a red or dark blue cup as compared to white cup). they felt its flimsiness. These results clearly suggest that changes in
Changing the colour of the glass in which a beverage is con- the haptic qualities of the receptacle in which a drink is contained
sumed has also been shown to change a consumer’s perception might have different effects on different people depending on their
of the thirst-quenching properties of a drink. Guéguen (2003), for general liking for haptic input (see also Becker et al., 2011).
example, reported that people (N = 40) rated an unnamed soda Elsewhere, Schifferstein (2009) presented his participants with
drink as tasting significantly more thirst-quenching when served several cups that were made of various different materials (glass,
from a ‘‘cold coloured’’ blue glass (nearly 47.5% of the participants ceramics, opaque plastic, translucent plastic, and melamine) that
chose this as the most thirst-quenching) than when exactly same were either empty or filled with different drinks (hot tea or soda).
drink was served from a green, yellow, or red glass instead. Only They had to rate their drinking experience on the basis of a number
15% of the participants rated the drink from the ‘‘warm-coloured’’ of scales (such as good-bad, beautiful-ugly, etc). Schifferstein’s
red glass to be more thirst-quenching. results clearly demonstrated that the participants’ experience of
When it comes to wine, researchers have also demonstrated that drinking from the various cups was affected by the way in which
the colour of the glass can exert an influence over people’s percep- the participants experienced the cup. So, for example, the partici-
tion of the contents. So, for example, Ross, Bohlscheid, and Weller pants reported that they enjoyed drinking the soda from the plastic
(2008) demonstrated that a trained panel preferred two red wines cup more than from the ceramic cup. Interestingly, one of the attri-
(a Syrah and a Pinot Noir) when they were tasted from a blue wine butes was sweetness. The drinks consumed from the pinkish cups
glass as compared to when they were sampled from a more tradi- were rated as tasting significantly sweeter than when exactly the
tional clear wine glass (under normal white-light illumination). same drink was evaluated from a transparent cup instead. Such
Even trained assessors have been shown to change their sensory results suggest that the participants in this study may unconsciously
evaluations of ports and Bordeaux red wines when the drinks hap- have transferred their experience of (or expectations related to) the
pen to be served in red rather than clear glass (Williams, Langron, & pinkness of the cups (or rather, their intuitions about pink foodstuffs
Noble, 1984; Williams, Langron, Timberlake, & Bakker, 1984). being sweet) to their judgments of the drinks themselves.
According to Wansink (1996), something like 30% of all the food Given that a number of companies have recently started to give
products we eat or drink are consumed direct from the packaging. their packaging a distinctive feel (see the Heineken tactile can;
If anything, one could imagine that this figure is likely to be higher Anon, 2011a; Murray, 2011), it is of interest to consider what effect
when it comes specifically to the case of beverages. As such, one changing the surface texture of a drinking receptacle may also have
might want to know whether the colour of the can or bottle in an effect on the consumer’s perception of the contents (see Hara,
which the vast majority of our beverages are sold, and hence pre- 2004, for some intriguing examples of just what is possible in
sumably also consumed, also exerts an impact on the perception of the way of hyper-realistic drinks packaging for fruit-flavoured
the consumer. There is certainly an older literature hinting that beverages; see also Spence & Piqueras-Fiszman, 2012, for a
this might, indeed, be the case (e.g., Cheskin, 1957; Cheskin & review). While we are not aware of anyone having addressed this
Ward, 1948). It is, though, now a little more than half a century question directly in the case of the perception of drinks, related
since Louis Cheskin first reported that consumers rated 7-Up as research does indeed suggest that such textural sensation transfer
tasting more lemony/limey when drinking it from a can that hap- effects can be observed (see Piqueras-Fiszman & Spence, 2012c;
pened to be yellower than normal (see also Becker, van Rompay, Zampini, Mawhinney, & Spence, 2006).4 Of course, in many cases,
Schifferstein, & Galetzka, 2011; Hine, 1995). the consumer may drink the beverage direct from the bottle or
Recently, we were able to conduct a study in which several hun- can. Under such conditions, any branding effects associated with
dred people were invited to drink a bottle of beer and to fill out a the packaging may also be expected to play a substantial role on
questionnaire about their experience. One group of participants the perception of the contents (e.g., see Gates, Copeland,
sampled the beer from an unlabelled brown beer bottle. Another Stevenson, & Dillon, 2007). The lack of weight might be expected
group of participants sampled the same beer from a brown bottle to be particularly problematic for the wine now sold directly from
with a brown label. A third group sampled the beer from a bottle a foil-sealed plastic cup at supermarkets in the UK (Poulter, 2010),
with a label that contained both yellow and green elements as well for those companies moving toward light-weighting their
(designed to bring out the citrus notes in the beer). The results product packaging (e.g., Anon 2011b).
revealed that those who sampled the beer from the latter bottle When it comes to the weight of the drinking vessel, there has
rated the citrusy notes as significantly more intense than those been virtually no research published to date. In fact, the only
in either of the other two conditions (see Spence, Barnett, & evidence that we are aware of relevant to this point comes from
Piqueras-Fiszman, in preparation). a recent conference presentation from Maggioni, Risso, Olivero,
and Gallace (2014). These researchers had 33 participants rate
On the feel of the drinking vessel the pleasantness, freshness, lightness, and level of carbonation of
still and sparkling water samples on a series of visual analogue
Krishna and Morrin (2008) conducted an intriguing between- scales. The water samples were served from plastic cups that were
participants study in which they investigated the impact of the feel either light (2 g), medium, (11 g), or heavy (30 g). In this case,
of the container (a plastic cup) on people’s perception of a slightly
unusual soft drink (water mixed with Sprite). Their study was con-
4
ducted in a university cafeteria. 180 people evaluated the drink One might also expect the thermal properties of the drinking vessel to influence
after having tasted it via a straw. Half of them touched the flimsy people’s perception. Intriguingly, Williams and Bargh (2008) have already shown that
the warmth of a briefly held cup of hot, versus iced, coffee affected people’s
cup in which the drink was contained with their hand before judgments of a target person without their being aware of this influence. Should these
evaluating the drink, whereas the others did not. The results of this intriguing results be replicated then the implications for glassware could be
study showed that those participants who scored lower in their significant.
C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140 137

ence of the shape, weight, and colour of the tea vessel on people’s
perception, subjective rating, and consumption of tea. Such
research is most certainly warranted given tea’s role as perhaps
the world’s most popular beverage next to water (e.g.,
Macfarlane & Macfarlane, 2004).

Interim summary

To summarize the studies that have been reviewed in this sec-


tion, we believe that sensation transference can be used to account
for the observed effects; be it the ‘‘cold’’ from the colour of the cup
or the ‘‘cheap’’ from the material properties of the cup. Each time,
the attribute (be it sensory, emotional, or evaluative) that people
happen to associate with the drinking vessel appears to be trans-
ferred to theirs rating of the drink (see also Spence, Harrar, &
Piqueras-Fiszman, 2012, for a review). Perhaps unsurprisingly
given what we have seen above, there is growing interest amongst
Fig. 4. (A) Contemporary example of branded beer glass. The suggestion is that the the marketing community in the opportunities associated with
weight of the glassware in this case will likely serve to enhance the drinker’s branded glassware and signature packaging for their drinks brands.
perception of the contents. (B) A much older example of branded glassware from
Babycham.
Such moves are presumably built on evidence such as that
reported by McFarland (2002) that ‘‘According to research by Inter-
participants rated the water as more carbonated when served from brew, 50 per cent of consumers prefer beer to be served in a branded
the heaviest cup, but as most pleasant when served from the light- glass and 37 per cent are prepared to pay more for it’’. Finally here it
est cup instead. Once again, then, the available evidence suggests should be noted that, at present, sensation transference is more of
the existence of a significant sensation transference effect (see a descriptive rather than an explanatory concept. In the future, it
Gatti, Spence, & Bordegoni, 2014; Piqueras-Fiszman, Harrar, would certainly be helpful to get a more mechanistic understand-
Roura, & Spence, 2011; Piqueras-Fiszman & Spence, 2012b; ing of the conditions under which sensation transfer occurs and
Spence & Piqueras-Fiszman, 2011, for related examples). how the effect occurs.
While some authors believe that serving beer in branded glass-
ware can increase sales (Foottit, 2010),5 it would appear as though Drinking vessels and consumption behaviour
the marketing opportunities that are associated with the introduction
of heavier glassware have not gone unnoticed, think here only of the Given the current obesity crisis affecting much of the developed
distinctively heavy Hoegaarden beer glass (see Fig. 4A and B for world (Finucane et al., 2011), together with the excessive (e.g.,
another classic example of branded, albeit not particularly heavy glass- binge) drinking reported in many places (see Attwood, Scott-
ware from the UK marketplace). Another example of the heavy beer Samuel, Stothart, & Munafò, 2012; Room, Babor, & Rehm, 2005), it
glass might be that the dimpled pint glass that has recently started is interesting to consider whether the physical properties of the
to regain its former popularity in British pubs, after having seemingly drinking vessels from which alcoholic drinks are consumed may
vanished from service in pubs about a decade ago (Barford & Rohrer, affect people’s consumption behaviour. Suggestive evidence in this
2014). On the other hand, it is also worth noting that the copa de balon, regard comes from the work of Wansink and Van Ittersum (2003,
the large bowled, long stemmed glass in which the Spanish like to 2005). Their research has shown how the shape of a glass can play
serve/drink gin and tonic also feels very heavy in the hand once filled a particularly dramatic role in how much people drink. In one study,
with ice. Once again, it may that the overall weight of the glass plus people were found to drink as much as 88% more when served in a
contents in hand, especially when held via the long narrow stem of short, wide glass than when the same drink was served in a tall, nar-
the glass that helps to elevate the drinker’s perception of the contents row glass instead (Wansink & Van Ittersum, 2003). This difference is
in this particular case. Others working in this space include Pastis 51 all the more surprising given that the two glasses had the same vol-
with their Piscine glass (see Chabanis, 2014). ume. In a subsequent study, these researchers showed that even
In contrast to the numerous research studies that have been experienced bartenders pour 26% more alcohol into tumblers than
published on wine glasses as well as a much smaller selection of highball glasses when measuring out shot of spirits (Wansink &
studies of coffee or hot chocolate mugs, more intensive research Van Ittersum, 2005; see also Gill & Donaghy, 2004; White, Kraus,
is undoubtedly called for to investigate the influence of container McCracken, et al., 2003). The size of the receptacle that a person
on the perception of other popular beverages around the world drinks from has also been shown to influence sip volume (Lawless,
such as tea (e.g., Varma, 2013). Multisensory research on tea is of Bender, Oman, & Pelletier, 2003).
increasing importance due to many factors such as the global pop- Other studies, meanwhile, have reported that elongated recepta-
ularity of this beverage, the health benefits associated with drink- cles were perceived to contain more of a drink than was actually the
ing tea, and the emergence of a high-end market for tea (e.g., Wan, case (Yang & Raghubir, 2005), suggesting that the height of the con-
Zhou et al., in press). Speaking of the tea vessels relevant to the tainer was used to estimate the volume of the drinks. And yet, elon-
themes of this review, the form of tea receptacle varies in shape gated receptacles also made people underestimate the volume they
(i.e. from British tea cup to Chinese tea bowl with cover), weight had consumed and therefore they ended up drinking more of the
(from very thin and light ones such as the British bone cup to thick beverage (Raghubir & Krishna, 1999). Taken together, then, these
and heavy ones such the Chinese Zisha clay cup), colour, design, results suggest that everyone (expert and novice alike) falls prey
and many other properties may all be relevant. Further studies will to the well-known vertical-horizontal illusion (Avery & Day, 1969).6
therefore be needed in order to thoroughly investigate the influ-
6
Interestingly people are able to correctly answer the question about whether the
volume of liquid remains the same regardless of whether it is in a tall and thin
5
Apparently, Carlsberg UK found that sales of beer went up by 14% and profit container or a short and fat one since middle childhood (Piaget, 1965), yet the shape
margins by 37% when sold in a branded glass. of the receptacle still influences their pouring and drinking behaviour.
138 C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140

Fig. 5. Straight-sided (A) and curved, (B) 12 fl oz glasses used in the study by Attwood et al. (2012).

least in part, by the weight or volume of that foodstuff, as best that


the consumer can determine it. Now, if the consumer transfers
some of their feelings about the weight of the container to their
judgment of the weight of the contents (because they do a poor
job of separating one from the other) then this is likely to make
a drink consumed from a heavier receptacle, if anything, be judged
as potentially more filling/satiating.

Conclusions

Taken together, the results of the various studies that have been
summarized here clearly demonstrate the profound impact that
the drinking vessel, or receptacle, has on our perception of wide
variety of beverages, from wine through to coffee, and from hot
chocolate through soda and beer. On the one hand, the drinking
vessel impacts both the sensory-discriminative and hedonic
response of consumers (or participants) to the contents. On the
other, the dimensions of the drinking vessel also exert an influence
on how much we pour through to how much we eventually con-
sume. While the majority of the research published to date has
tended to focus on the physical properties of the drink itself,
and/or on labelling, branding, and/or pricing (e.g., Gates et al.,
Fig. 6. One of the heavy-bottomed glasses in which beer is served at The Quilon 2007; Spence & Piqueras-Fiszman, 2012), the research that has
restaurant in central London (http://www.quilon.co.uk/). Note that whenever one been summarized here argues that sensory scientists and compa-
tilts this glass to one’s lips one has to lift all of the weight at the bottom end of the
nies alike should really be thinking much more carefully about
solid glass. The results of the research outlined here would suggest that this design,
and the perceived weight that it gives rise to, will likely enhance the consumer’s
optimizing the sensory and conceptual properties of the drinking
experience of the contents. Colouring the bottom of the glass red is also a good idea vessel so as to enhance the experience of the consumer, since it
given that red is generally perceived to be one of the heavier colours. [Figure is such an intrinsic part of the overall multisensory experience of
courtesy of Sriram Ayer.] a drink. That said, it would appear that some have now started
to realize the marketing opportunities that are associated with
glassware (Stead et al., 2014; see also D’Costa, 2011).7 Certainly,
Recently, Attwood et al. (2012) conducted a between-
there is growing interest online from those who are curious to know
participants laboratory-based study in the UK in which they dem-
just how much of an influence the glassware really makes to the
onstrated that social drinkers consumed a drink of lager 60% more
consumer’s experience of the contents (e.g., see D’Costa, 2011;
slowly from a filled 12 fl oz straight-sided glass than from a flute
Reis, 2012).
glass of the same volume that had curved sides (see Fig. 5). Inter-
Finally, the size and sensory properties of the straw is also an
estingly, no such effect was observed in those participants who
area where researchers are now starting to pay more attention
consumed a carbonated soft drink (7-Up) from the same pair of
(e.g., Lawless et al., 2003; Lin, Lo, & Liao, 2013; see also
glasses instead, which suggested a rather more complex interac-
Hashimoto, Inami, & Kajimoto, 2008; Hashimoto et al., 2007).
tion between the glassware and the contents. What is more, the
participants in this study were found to underestimate the true
7
half-way point of the curved glass to a greater extent than when Indeed, as noted by Attwood et al. (2012), the last few years have seen an increase
in the range of branded drinking glasses that are available (at least in the United
drinking from the straight glass. Finally, one might also expect
Kingdom). It is interesting to note how many of these glasses include shape as a
the weight of the glassware/cup to influence expected satiety fol- distinguishing feature: Think only of chalice glasses, curved beer flutes, tulip glasses,
lowing the consumption of the contents (cf. Piqueras-Fiszman & tankard, and novel curved beer glasses, now used by a number of alcohol brands (Bob
Spence, 2012b). One interesting glass in this regard is shown in the Brit, 2010; Reis, 2012). In the UK, we have also seen the return of the dimpled pint
Fig. 6. The logic here being that people’s belief about the weight glass (Barford & Rohrer, 2014). In contrast to this ‘male’ glassware, part of the push
toward novel glass designs in recent years has been toward the ‘girl glass’ (e.g., see
and how filling a given food or beverage will be is determined, at Black, 2010; Hook, 2009).
C. Spence, X. Wan / Food Quality and Preference 39 (2015) 131–140 139

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