Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1
Noma restaurant
COPENHAGEN:
Where Chefs
Go on
Vacation
2 Amagertorv Square
on the Strøget
4 Pedal Pushing
“Renting a bike is key. Every street has
a separate bike lane and everyone knows
1 The Reservation (and obeys) the laws. [See Cycle City
“René Redzepi’s Noma is one of the most sidebar.] —Frank F.
3 Coffee Collective beautifully designed restaurants in the
world. Easily one of the best meals of my
life. He makes a dish called Hen and the Egg See page 24 for the rest
4 Public transportation (pictured) that incorporates hay.” —Frank F. of the Franks’ picks
6 10 P.M. ,
Frederiksberg Garden
Danish for
design
5 Kødbyens
restaurant
Fiskebar
7
Royal
Copenhagen
porcelain
24-HOUR
PARTY
PHOTOGRAPHS: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, THOMAS BUSK/COURTESY FISKEBAR; COURTESY TRAVIS KAUFFMAN; COURTESY ROYAL COPENHAGEN; BRIGITTE LACOMBE; COURTESY STEVE
BERTRAM/ADVENTURE FOOD (STREETCUISINE.BLOGSPOT.COM); GETTY IMAGES; MARIA GOTTHARD/COURTESY SANKT ANNÆ; BROOKE WOLIN. ILLUSTRATION BY SARAH C. RUTHERFORD.
PEOPLE
Your watch isn’t broken: Yes, it’s
9 late, yes, it’s light out, and yes,
The cool everyone is at one of the city’s many
brew outdoor cafés or parks. Anders
Selmer, chef at Kødbyens Fiskebar
(see No. 5), tells you where to make
like a local—all summer night long:
TOP TREND
Chefs from Austin
C O OI ML E N T to San Francisco are
COND
THE DESTINATION DINER adding Japanese
Chefs are revolutionizing that American classic with LUCKNY shichimi togarashi
(made with seven
short-order cooking that’s long on creativity
SEVE spices) to popcorn,
Bloody Marys, french
Add the diner to the growing list of restaurants getting a full-on chef makeover (think fries, and any other
gastropubs and food trucks). Yes, eggs are still on the menu, but so is the name of the farm
dish that can benefit
they’re sourced from, and they just might be cooked sous vide. And you can pair your
line-caught tuna melt with a biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc. For a taste of the trend, we break
from its spicy-citrusy-
down the signature dish at Plow in San Francisco. —MERYL ROTHSTEIN savory hit. We love
Gion Hararyokaku
Duck Bread
brand from Kyoto.
($26; southwillard.com)
from Sonoma Artisan from Acme Bread Company
Foie Gras
Leeks
Foodist
the
from Mariquita Farm
ANATOMY
OF A HASH
ˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇ
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ZACH D E SART. FOOD STYLING BY ED GABRIELS. PROP STYLING BY THOM DRIVER. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
DEAR FOODIST:
Q I recently tried to pay a restaurant
check with a credit card but was told
they only accepted cash. And it was a nice
place. What gives? —Plastic Man
4 BITE CAFE
Chicago 5 CROSSROADS DINER
Dallas 6 24 DINER
Austin
all do: It’s money in reserve.
G I R L
I S T H E R E A N Y T H I N G G W Y N E T H P A LT R O W C A N ’ T D O ?
C A N
WE HOPPED A PLANE TO LONDON TO FIND OUT ONCE AND FOR ALL
BY ADAM RAPOPORT PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT JONES
COOK
=KJJ;H
Paltrow likes to
keep it simple in the
kitchen: “Maldon
sea salt, olive oil, <EH7IB?:;I>EME<EKH:7OM?J>
and lemon can =MOD;J>F7BJHEM"=EJE
BONAPPETIT.COM/G0/GWYNETH
=KJJ;H
GUTTER
A whole cheese adds splendor, especially when served with raisin loaf. The afternoon starts simply with radishes, butter, and salt.
says. “It’s so lovely to celebrate bones when increasingly everyone range before a blast in the oven.
else goes for fillet.” Since St. John opened in 1994, Fergus has Asked how he knows when the meat (continued on page TK)
GUTTER
If anything’s better
than butter, it’s roasted
Szoosh \jooje\ n.: fancy design
bone marrow, a formerly
forgotten dish that Fergus
“There’s no szoosh at home and no szoosh at work. I’m sans szoosh.”
Henderson helped popu-
larize on menus around
the world. It couldn’t be
simpler to make at home:
1. Cook veal or beef bones
in a hot oven just until the
fat becomes wobbly (too
liquid and you’ll lose it).
2. A humble parsley salad
provides the ideal balance,
says Fergus: “It’s green
and happy and healthy.
It works in a cheeky duo.”
3. Scooping out
the marrow is easier
with a slender marrow
spoon, available on
eBay and amazon.com.
Saturday
lunchers, from left:
Douglas Stewart,
Fergus Henderson,
Tanya Thompson,
Pauline Daly, and
Melanie Arnold.
GUTTER
GUTTER
an 8x8x2" glass baking dish. Season with sirloin or strip loin roast heat until mixture begins to boil; set aside.
salt and pepper, then drizzle with oil. Roast Gray sea salt and freshly ground black Using an electric mixer, beat egg
tomatoes until softened, about 30 minutes. pepper yolks and 7 Tbsp. sugar in another medium
(continued from page TK) is done, Fergus pushes up his round HOW TO EAT RADISHES Let cool. Transfer tomatoes to a large bowl, 2 Tbsp. olive oil bowl until very thick ribbons form, about
glasses and says, “It’s sort of Jedi Knight, cooking meat. It’s—you leaving juices behind. Pour vinaigrette 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually
Preheat oven to 425°. Season roast
AT THEIR PEAK
into baking dish and whisk into the tomato add hot milk mixture to egg yolk mixture.
FERGUS
know Star Wars, the first one? Luke Skywalker’s flying down the generously with gray sea salt and pepper.
4 SERVINGS Eating both the radishes and juices to blend. Return mixture to saucepan. Add melted
valley of the Death Star, shooting his missiles, and he hears this
Heat oil in an ovenproof skillet or a small
WORLD
their leaves is true whole-vegetable dining, Add anchovies and lettuce to bowl chocolate and whisk to blend. Stir over
voice: ‘Luke, put away your sights. Feel the Force.’ So he puts
For a slideshow says Henderson. with tomatoes. Drizzle vinaigrette over. roasting pan set over high heat. Add roast low heat until slightly thickened and
away his sights. Feels the Force. Shoots his missile and blows up
of the Hendersons’ Toss salad to coat (it’s best if you use your to skillet and brown on all sides, about 3 an instant-read thermometer registers
the Death Star. The same way when you’re cooking: You should Pile 16–20 scrubbed French breakfast
home and their hands). Season salad to taste with salt minutes per side. Transfer skillet to oven 175°, about 5 minutes. Transfer chocolate
feel the Force and be a Jedi Knight.” guide to London
radishes with pert green leaves still
and pepper. Sprinkle parsley over and serve. and roast until an instant-read thermometer custard to a large bowl and place over
As Fergus puts the Force-felt hunk of meat back onto the (where they
attached onto a plate. Set out a bowl of
inserted into center of roast registers another large bowl of ice water. Stir until
counter and tents it with foil, he says, “Now it’s resting happily, eat, drink, shop, coarse sea salt and a dish of slightly soft-
120° for medium-rare, 40–50 minutes. Tent chocolate custard is cool.
having an emotional moment.” and see art), ened best-quality butter. Pick up a radish,
PROP STYLING BY EMMA THOMAS. GROOMING BY LOUISE DARTFORD.
ROAST BONE MARROW WITH with foil; let rest 15 minutes. Thinly slice Bring remaining 6 Tbsp. sugar and 2
When friends and their dogs trickle in from their respective plus a recipe for spread a bit of butter on it, sprinkle with PARSLEY SALAD roast. Arrange on a platter and sprinkle Tbsp. water to a boil in a small heavy, deep
galleries and restaurants, lunch is served family style. “We’re Margot’s Orange salt, and eat the radish. Place the leaves in
4 SERVINGS This classic St. John dish uses with additional gray sea salt. Serve with
family, after all,” says Fergus. The laughter and loud proclama- Marmalade and a bowl. Drizzle the leaves with ¼ cup Dijon saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring
St. John Bakery veal bones for a more delicate texture Spinach Gunge alongside (see recipe).
tions of deliciousness start as soon as the marrow bones hit the Vinaigrette (see recipe), season to taste until sugar dissolves. Boil, occasionally
Raisin Loaf, go to and flavor. (“They’ve got youth on their
table and are sustained through the cheese course—an entire with salt and pepper, and enjoy as a salad. swirling pan and brushing down sides
bonappetit.com side,” says Fergus.) Ask your butcher for
wheel from nearby Neal’s Yard Dairy, which lends a certain splen- with a wet pastry brush (do not stir), until
/go/hendersons center-cut bones: You don’t want the ends. SPINACH GUNGE
dor, says Margot. (The accompanying raisin bread was baked at 4 SERVINGS A misleading name for such
a dark amber color forms, about 5 minutes.
When it comes to salt, Fergus uses coarse
the new St. John Bakery, located in an interesting wholesale food
DIJON VINAIGRETTE
Gradually whisk in cream (mixture will
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP gray sea salt here because it maintains a luscious, creamy dish. This creamed
complex in Bermondsey; Saturday’s custard-doughnut sale is spinach gunges up quite nicely.
bubble vigorously). Whisk caramel into
its crunch atop the succulent marrow.
definitely worth the trip.) Dessert is a single scoop of the dense, 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice chocolate custard. Strain into a large con-
rich chocolate ice cream that St. John’s pastry chefs spent years 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 8 3"–4"-long pieces veal marrow bones ¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter tainer; cover and chill for 2 days.
perfecting. (The secret: caramel swirled into the finished base.) 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly 2 lb. fresh spinach, stemmed Process custard in an ice cream machine
By four o’clock, the ice cream has softened to a truffle-like state 1 garlic clove, finely minced chopped 1"½ cups (lightly packed) grated Pecorino, according to manufacturer’s instructions.
as a bottle of La Vieille Prune, a kicky eau-de-vie, is brought out. ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 small shallots, thinly sliced Parmesan, or Manchego cheese Transfer to another container; freeze for
“Oh, it’s the Prune!” Margot exclaims, foreshadowing the after- Sea salt and freshly ground black (about ⅓ cup) (about 3 oz.) 3 days before eating. DO AHEAD: Ice cream
noon’s segue into evening. Another Saturday lunch without fear. pepper 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup crème fraîche can be made 3 days ahead. Keep frozen.
WHEN YOU’VE GOT A BUSHEL OF SWEET CORN, A COOLER OF ICED BEER, AND A FIERY GRILL,
WHO NEEDS A KITCHEN? WE SURE DON’T. HERE ARE OUR HARDLY SCIENTIFIC, THOROUGHLY
OPINIONATED RULES FOR COOKING IN THE TASTIEST OF SEASONS
NO.
1
IT WAS A SIMPLE query posed to the these next few months are to the rules, philosophies, and, of course,
THE FIRST LAW
staff of Bon Appétit back on a snowy food-obsessed, particularly those here recipes that each illustrate one of Bon
Appétit’s central tenets of summer
OF SUMMER EATING :
February day: How do you cook in the at BA. We wait all year for summer,
summer? We were essentially asking: when the market is exploding; when cooking. Twenty-one may seem like a While we can’t drill down too
Tell me everything you believe in and… we can stand next to a hot grill, cold lot during the season when the most deep on this data-wise, it’s
wait, hello? Why do you have that drink in hand, and feel that all is right important rule should probably be hard to contest the fact that
dreamy look on your face? Because with the world. We assume you feel Relax the Rules. But we want to make food tastes better when
what March is to college hoops fans this way, too. So what follows is a sure you optimize every minute. That’s you eat it outside, preferably
and September is to the fashion crowd, summary—okay, a manifesto—of 21 what we’ll be doing, too. using your hands.
OT
ES
AN ER
IF
G MM
IN SU
M
OK A
CO
IT’S IMPORTANT TO EMBRACE LAZINESS. When it comes to the behemoths of the summer market (corn,
tomatoes, peaches, watermelon), we encourage you to do nothing. Don’t go drizzling an aged balsamic vinegar over your THE ONLY THING
NO. heirloom Mr. Stripey. A ripe tomato doesn’t need anything but salt and extra-virgin olive oil. (And it might not even need the A GRILLED BURGER
2
NO.
oil.) Don’t shave watermelon into see-through slivers and toss it with feta and basil. (Just cut it into a giant wedge and eat
it.) Save those sous vide short ribs for parka weather, when you’re down to root vegetables and your dinner needs a little
5 NEEDS IS AMERICAN
CHEESE.PERIOD.*
more human intervention. The goal right now is to be as low-key as possible.
DRY RUB
MAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP
no piece of meat—except for a big, fat, ingredients and pulse until finely
expensive rib eye or porterhouse—that ground. Combine ingredients in
cannot be improved by a good dry rub. Store in an airtight container a medium bowl and
It’s quick to assemble yet will pay you for up to 3 months. For the serve with burgers. Earn
back in smoky dividends all summer Memphis-style ribs recipe, go to bonus points by bringing
long. Here’s our go-to: bonappetit.com/ribs. a jar to the next cookout.
ȓJEC7JEI7D:M?9>Ȕ$P79>:;I7HJ<EH8ED7FFxJ?Jȓ9EHD"H?8I"HK8"7D:I7K9;Ȕ1<EE:IJOB?D=8OIKI?;J>;E:EHEK$
3 SPEAKING OF LAZY: DON’T EVEN BOTHER COOKING THAT CORN. If it’s sweet enough, all you have to do
is shuck it, cut the kernels off the cob, toss with lime juice, olive oil, cilantro, and salt and pepper. (No one’s going to
complain if you throw in cherry tomatoes or avocado.)
PHOTOGRAPHS (LEFT PAGE): CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, MAREN CARUSO/ © 2009 REPRINTED FROM PINTXOS BY GERALD HIRIGOYEN (TEN SPEED); I STOCK PHOTO; CONDÉ NAST DIGITAL STUDIO (4); GETTY IMAGES; CONDÉ NAST DIGITAL STUDIO. PHOTOGRAPHS (RIGHT
NO.
NO DISH YOU MAKE BETWEEN JUNE AND SEPTEMBER SHOULD NEED TO BE SERVED “PIPING HOT.” 14
NO.
8
PAGE): GAMMA-KEYSTONE/ GETTY IMAGES (ST. TROPEZ; GETTY IMAGES (FIRE AND NEWSPAPER); COURTESY CHEFTOOLS.COM (CHIMNEY); COURTSEY COWBOY CHARCOAL. ZACH DESART FOR BON APPÉTIT (FISH); FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.
BUY A
CHARCOAL GRILL.
GRILLED BRANZINO
WITH LADOLEMONO
2–4 SERVINGS
2 whole bone-in branzino, cleaned There’s nothing wrong with that 42,000-
11 SUCCUMB TO THE GREEK BTU rotisserie-smoker-grill, but you
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
MARRIAGE OF OLIVE OIL AND should know that when you use it, you’re
Kosher salt and freshly
LEMON JUICE. Ladolemono, whisked not grilling. You’re cooking outside. If you
ground black pepper
together with its one-to-one want that authentic smokiness or a crispy
½ cup ladolemono (see recipe)
acid-to-oil ratio (as opposed to the char on your aged strip steak, you’re go-
1 Tbsp. dried oregano, preferably ing to need to build a fire. All you’ll need
usual one-to-three), is a classic Greek
Greek to get it started are…
vinaigrette that gives a flash of
brightness to grilled octopus, shrimp, Prepare a grill to medium-high heat.
squid, or the smoky, crispy skin of a Brush fish with oil and season skin and
whole branzino. TO MAKE: Whisk cavity with salt and pepper. Grill fish,
together ¼ cup fresh lemon juice and turning once, until cooked through,
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil. Whisk in about 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter,
kosher salt and freshly ground black drizzle with ladolemono, crumble
pepper to taste. MAKES ½ CUP. oregano over, and serve.
1 bag of 1 charcoal 2 sheets of
hardwood chimney (the newspaper
charcoal one at your to start that
NO. A FEW THINGS TO AVOID WHEN ENTERTAINING IN THE local hardware chimney
1 classic Weber
kettle grill
(a 22.5" will
comfortably
grill for a family
of four)
F>EJE=H7F>I0:?JJ;?I7=;HȓI7BI7L;H:;Ȕ1FB7C;DF;JAELȓIJ;7AȔ$P79>:;I7HJ<EH8ED7FFxJ?JȓI?CFB;IOHKFȔ1<EE:IJOB?D=8OIKI?;J>;E:EHEK$
PORTOBELLO To 2.0 it, bring to a simmer with grated peeled
MUSHROOMS fresh ginger, basil leaves (yes, we used purple
AGAIN. basil here), lavender, or mint and let steep for
30 minutes. Strain before pouring into a jar. Add
16 YOU SHOULD NEVER BE WITHOUT A to Gin and Tonics, iced tea, lemonade, or sorbet
JAR OF SALSA VERDE. It’s the ketchup of SERVE THIS
and granita bases.
summer. Spoon it on grilled lamb or pork While we’re banning
F>EJE=H7F>I09BE9AM?I;<HECJEF"@ED7J>7DA7DJEHș9D:?=?J7B7H9>?L;19EKHJ;IO@7H:?D79ECCKD?97J?EDI19EKHJ;IOENE?DJ;HD7J?ED7B19EKHJ;IO9EB;C7D9ECF7DO19EKHJ;IO<KB>7C=HEKF
chops, grilled eggplant or swordfish. things, how about we all A mix of ice creams
and sorbets will
agree to leave the
satisfy everyone’s
following Sunday-BBQ
craving (and diet).
SALSA VERDE standards in the last
MAKES 1½ CUPS century: cold fusilli salad
with grilled vegetables;
1 garlic clove, chopped plain grilled chicken
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped breasts; cheese platters
(optional) going soft in the sun;
1½ Tbsp. capers, rinsed and chopped crudités and dip. And no
1 Fresno chile or red jalapeño, more skewers threaded
stemmed, seeded, minced with different ingredients
4 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf requiring different
parsley leaves, finely chopped cooking times. Those
2 cups loosely packed fresh mint kebabs are always
leaves, finely chopped disasters. Always.
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro
leaves, finely chopped
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt (optional)
Combine garlic, anchovies, capers, and chile NO.
in a mortar or food processor. Pound with a
pestle or process until a chunky paste forms.
19
COLD FUSILLI
Add herbs and stir to combine. Remove SALAD
pestle or transfer paste to a bowl. Using a
WHEN IT COMES TO MEAT, COOK
fork, slowly whisk in oil to make sauce.
MORE THAN YOU NEED.
M7DJCEH;E<
Season to taste with salt, if desired. Let stand Nobody ever regretted having four too many EKH;:?JEHI¿
steaks, BBQ chicken legs, lamb burgers, or pork J?FIEDIKCC;H
at room temperature for 30 minutes while 9EEA?D=5=EJE
flavors meld. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made bellies left over from a Sunday barbecue. This BONAPPETIT
.COM/GO/
1 week ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room rule does not apply to fish: no one’s gonna SUMMERCOOKING
temperature and stir before serving. PORTOBELLO touch a day-old piece of mackerel.