~ fashion flats P 1 i\\)| MENSWEARIf you are interested in ordering a hard copy version of this publication go to: http://blur.by/17YWRsl or Amazon books. Also available by the same author: Fashion Flats - Womenswear (Educational) Don't have a hernia Lavergnia (Children) First published by Merrin Cameron 2015 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in aretrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the author & illustrator Merrin Stacey Cameron. Copyright Merrin Stacey Cameron 2015,ura Introduction 4 Chapter 1 2 Chapter 2 10 Chapter 3 2 Chapter 4 6 Index 56INTRODUCTION An ability to trade sketch garment flats correctly is essential for a Fashion Design career. This book explains how garment technical drawings are a necessary process in linking apparel design, production and sales at wholesale level. Whether you are a beginner, or have fashion industry experience, | hope the information contained in the following pages will help you to improve your skills of observation, understanding of garment construction, patternmaking, design, sense of proportion & technical drawing accuracy, whether manually or electronically. After the success of my first book “Fashion Flats - Womenswear”, | have been inspired to extend further into the world of technical drawing by developing a publication dedicated to Menswear. Ihave also included detailed steps in using Adobe Illustrator to create technically accurate trade flats, as is current industry standard. Happy drawing - again!fea el Fashion flats Technical drawings, otherwise known as trade flats, flats trades, trade sketches or tech drawings are used as a way of communicating technical information for two main purposes. Flats for Design/Selling, and Flats for Production. True trade flats are dravn in black pen only (or printed in black ink), without the addition of colour, shading or pattern, so that they are clear and can be faxed or copied if necessary. Flats are a flat, » dimensional representation of a garment with all technical information inckided. Flats for Design & Sales The Designer will create rough developmental sketches to begin the design process. These sketches will develop into trade flats or technical drawings as concepts and ideas are established. Technical drawings are used at the design development stage to illustrate and communicate ideas within a design/sales team prior to sample production and the development of a complete collection. These technical drawings must convey design concepts and technical garment detail in a format that canbe easily communicated. Not only are these drawingsused during the design development process, they are also used to relay information to a patternmaker/manufacturer (production process), & for istration purposes in wholesale rangge books. Flats for Production The second purpose of technical drawings is for use in specification sheets as part of a technical pack. Technical drawings are annotated with important garment construction information to be followed by the apparel manufacturer. & technical pack or tech pack includes all the information that afactory requires for the production of sample garments and eventually production of apparel orders. Other information may include fabric suppliers, fabric requirements, testing, construction details, labelling requirements, sample garment, suppliers of notions and accessories, accessory details thread or yarn weight/gauige, stitch lengths and machines, construction methods, printing, details, packaging requirements, production and delivery dates, garment specifications (sizing measurements, garment dimensions and grade rules), tolerance, pricing, factory contact details and contracts. Drawings must be easity interpreted by the manufacturer (patternmaker, sample ‘machinist, production manager, cutter etc.)ans O) haa aleTRAILMENAUTUMN/WINTER 216 Style sPsgo7t ‘Se SFr4t00 Description: Man's took Cottonyam dyed Description : Men's 65% Woollas%Viscose lat canal ockt with m otcarg pai tmultipocketjorkat with yarn dyed pls, ‘Coloured anne lining. ‘quiltedtining,andstud front opening. TRAILMEN Sie: SFios4o89 Description: MerYs casual Anorak jacket “with hood n 78 Wool, 208 Acrylic, ‘Nylon plaid and lane ingSTYLENUMBER: SS006 STYLENAME: OliverGrey _ SEASON: Spring/Summer 16 MANUFACTURER: CP&R FABRIC : Pi tripe poly/cotton blend shirting DESIGNER: AdLPR ane) Flats vs Floats Trade flats or technical drawings are flat, 2 dimensional representations of garment designs. Garments are illustrated asif they are flat, ving on a flat surface. If you refer to the process that you would go through to create a garment pattern you should not have any problems understanding how a flat should be drawn, garment shape (sifhouette), where dart values are manipulated to and where seam lines should exist. Consider garment construction when identifying locations of topstitch detail, flatstitching/bluffing, blind hem, coverstitch, latlocking, ‘win needle stitch detail and overlocking. Garment floats are sightly more 3 dimensional in appearance than a garment flat, as they demonstrate a sense of movement & drape around a body. Shading, creases and drag, lines are often added to garment floats to add to the sense of a garment being alive. Fashion forecasting agencies like Stylesite use garment floats asa way of illustrating garment designs. All technical information is still included in the illustration, but the garment sihouette hangs as it would on a hanger or around a real body. Some designers wall draw floats instead of flats in their technical packs, as long as all relevant information is sill communicated accurately. See examples and note the differencesin drawing styles.ae NESFLOATSlenis wd Technique Trade flats can be drawn either by hand (manually) or electronically (CAD vector program). Most trade sketching is now created electronically asitis far more accurate and less time consuming to draw, particularly once you have created templates of basic, repeated shapes. Files can also be edited easily, emailed and imported into different programs. However itis a valuable skill to learn to hand draw manually and observe proportion. Before you start drawing using either method you must develop or find @ croqui (figure template) to use as a guide, The croqui incluxled here has been used to create the trade flats in this book, but the croqui you use must suit the product you are drawing. Remember not to take the croqui body shape too literally as you must first of all consider the garment pattern shape and construction before you start drawing. A common mistake is that tight fitting garments with some stretch are drawn around the croqui body shape adopting the curves of the elbow and knees, when in fact the garment pattern shape would be much straighter through the arms and legs. Also check that you have included all necessary seaming, front/back crutch seams in pants, armholes, zips and split into seams. Drawing with the Men’s croqui ‘When using the croqui asa guide to trade sketch mensivear you will need to treat it differently to the women’s croqui. In womenswear garments are generally more closely fitted to the body, ‘whereas menswear is generally a looser, more comfortable, casual fit. The other major difference is that pants (jeans or trousers) are not worn at a man’s natural waistline, but rather at a lower point across the hip bone or slightly above. Many women's garments are waisted, meaning that they are fitted to the natural waistline. Otherwise they are referred to as drop waisted or hipster. For more information on trade sketching by hand and the technical drawing of Womenswear refer to my previous publication “Fashion Flats ~ Womenswear” by Merrin Stacey Cameron. The design of menswear also differs vastly to womenswear. Menswear design soften about subtle changes to basic garment shapes e.g. a small change in pocket shape, a slight alteration to the collar, an extra pocket on a pant. For this reason designing menswear needs to be approached with a different attitude. Unfortunately menswear design and technical drawing is often ignored in fashion books, so Lhope that thisinformation will be of benefit to you! Computer aided illustration with Adobe Illustrator (Electronic/CAD) Adobe illustrator allows youtto draw technically accurate illustrations of garments for the purpose of apparel production, andis the most commonly used program within the fashion industry. It isa Vector based program rather than pixel based, meaning that artwork produced is clean and. precise. Vectors are created via dot points on an invisible grid system (series of algorithms). Artwork can also be enlarged without any deterioration in resolution and clarity. Adobe llustrator is a licensed product available as part of the Adobe suite (includes Photoshop, In Design, Dreamweaver etc.) The beauty of these products is that they are all compatible with each other, for example Illustrator native files or Al files can be opened directly into Photoshop and vice versa. ‘When using Illustrator you will find that there are many different paths that you can take to achieve the same end result. As you become proficient in using this valuable design tool you will find which methods work best for you.CROQUI FOR FLOATS.GARMENT DIMENSIONSCROQUI FOR FLATS See page 26 for fit of menswear in relation to the croqui.DRA\ NRT areola Ieee Adobe Illustrator workspace The Adobe ttator workspace const of 2 {Command mer that opens dop dev options cass the top of your eae Down the let side of your screen stool ba. lekingonan kon il slact ferent More tools are located under each ion Fil colour and stroke ca le be selected atthe base ofthe tol ba (nthe ight side of you sein ate the windows oF pands. These can be tem of, doced er reconfigured, Each Icon represents a tol that ‘shen eked on opens sno or panel Options ae aalble within each pane you academy ‘dose or lose 3 window reopen It by eng t0 window onyour command men a selecting the uid too Pages in lstator are referred to a Art boards an the space sureund you At booed asthe ‘amas, information stored on your canvas il borared alongwith thet boardinyour Ha. ‘As you pen each new le you wile aoe to ‘ick between the flee va the tabbed daciment Note hat shotets on Apple operating systems sae sighy diferent to. Merosott operating ‘Sytem, Shortt te exe locsted Inthe drop donm mone that feed oft the top. Command ‘Opening a new document To open a new document in Adobe Mutrator go 4+ Fe(Commandmens)> Hew > Dalogue ‘box will open ~ gv your document 2 elevate, than silact nomber of pager or arthoarde requed, thee Conkguration, and Portes ot Landscape orientation. + Spacing between atboatds and bleed for printing purposes can aso be set here + ick onAdvanced option. + Select VK (Gan, Magenta, Vllow, Keylad for eft peintng) oF RCS (Red, Green, Bike anaogve screen) fepton depending on what you are antingtoureyour artwork for sodset aster effet at 30091 (pes pinch) for ary photographic mages or sans Note that you ae aso able to access eusting templates ough tierce. Saving a document Nake 2 hab of saung regu to avd losing your ars le» Save as> sc cation and lena. ‘Also make a abi of sengyour flesInmore than tenelocationtoback them up. Tutorial 1: Bezier Pen tool The desir pentoolallous yu toda Ines withthe mouse sis & tablet Lins can be easly feshaped and edhed by manbuting hades teaches t0 the anchor ponte on curved lines “Anchor pnts canbe ade deetedorconverteéto reed to mastr to crate tecnica ecurate rade chow Straight lines (ck wth left se mouse buton to beg line path, Conte to dick points where you want your ne patho continue Tobegin anew ine path youve ned to Deeect, thetalinepathby gongctl slut + Aor eect, along commend meni and drop dawn mens ire outhe opin to Deselect, To undo your last step pres Ct + Z or Eat (commander) > unio. you continue to ess ol +2 das wilstep youbadkrardto the ast te yousaeedDRAWING with Adobe Illustrator Curved lines Tocrenea cuvedinepathyoulneedtobesin, ‘ck, hold and draggig 3¢ 2 new anchor point once aganby cng youre ile mouse baton Ineation (tae basally breaks the ine pat but oepeit ax one continous ine). Tht mood lea Move your aor tothe locaton that you wish allows youmorecontel of the caved shapes thet to add another anchor poi simply dick shold and dog, your mouse button and your Ine vl i Sanvescerdng Ik may take some practice 19 master veh arvedtnes, butyour ne pathcan be manipulated dd reshaped with the handles attaded to yout ocho ois ‘Yo move an arto poe senly dag it with he Direct salacton oo located sida toolbar). Editing your line path Use your Doct selocon too! to dag anchor Point nto new locafene when ating To reshape caved tne path stp ck onthe anchor point wth your Dect section tool and Iranbulte the hand that appear by moving them In and aut o rotating them at ferent andes Straight into curved line paths you zoom nto your anchor pont youl beable ‘Wher trade dawing you wil be required to raw to move It hy smaller increments and more sna fret shapes to Ethebodsusingauved seat de suaihtline pas. Myoudkaea staging but wantte continue the Zoom Tne pathan acurve yo can sph go fom ching ‘your staht nes to cick, hal and ang our Zoom In to see your artwork more cethy by fares but the curved Ine path wil continue the ‘electing the zoom ion then cling on Your brignalinepaty meaning that cuvedines cannot ‘rtoard 10 200m I right click mouse and slet bbe tua back on themselves. To avoid the {ozoon out Alternativ select on thebotom problem you need convert anchor pont 38 ou! ef tab of your workpace, or une Alt mone fo by ching back on thea anchor pit, thn thecalPTAA Cem NUL tae MILO tc-1eog Deleting segments of your line Copying a line segment path To copy part of a line select i by drawing a Imrqane ovr part ofthe ie wh your Det tetion ol Cals CHF (ocapy ape thetescgnentinont)>gotwseecton tulad thug sseedepted ne segment lo no marquee overapatofthelineyouswitho dale with you Dect election too to slect i Hi the eet Lutton on your hesboatd This method is pata sel wen you ae adding topstiching to 2 curved hem or other Yow will noice that whan yu fst sect hei segment, the whole but isnot although you conte to tthe Shaped are. Simpy ads the stroke valet and delete button the hole ject willbe deleted aashto yur copied ne. Deselect your abject by dlckng on the serean The eedroppar tool can als be used top up snp from the objet theatubutes of othe dashedinewerk. Deleting whole objects reshape froma Lsethe selection toate draw amarquee over part cor the whole ofthe object. This wil select the ‘whol bec. ress det. Adding, deleting and converting See anchor points To edit a line path anchr points cn be added, delete, converted andimoved. Thexe options ate available though your Basie Pen tea of tool bar located under the Bein Pon comin you let side toolbar. Comers can be converted nto carves and line path reshaped for example. Copying an object Tocopyandblectdraw a marquee ove ithyour selecton tol and eters, at (command mens) > copy Eat» paste Altra ul rc > cule (copy) CHL 4C Cl oF (copy in font) (Cul +S Cul 48 (copy behind) @OO® NAW ADDN NIXPy ANAM COMUNE Co XML Ur iec-1eog Tutorial 2: Technical drawing To cree technical owing with Adobe usta ae you wil need to make yours familar with the When trade setching grments you draw one all Seer Pen Tool slecng stroke and il aeus, of he garment fst lam the catteline, and en opening and evn documents 5 wel as wong felec i If dhe gument f asymmetial simply wrth iayer fete, then marpuate and dete to eit and ‘reste your garment constrton deal Seton ond Direct sletion too te need to be en ted ding ti proces. Using he Bes Pen too han your gament hall Induding ll topstitching, design and construction step det Open your A zed cog fe “Topsite ewig toboselateaspt Dachopt, Ceeate 2 new layer and lock ayer by dleking on ent thepadockin the bye panel (coqulayer. Use the line pre drop down menu In Soke Adis the transparency (ighten) on the cro ‘window to alter ines appenrance layer required To move anchor points use the dec selection tool Note that when eure éavingauvedlines, ee es tmaniuatng the handles ance you have dh Your gement clin, ater than uring sgt Tiesto carver a thireqtes the ation ad conversion of anchor points. Rena your layers inthe layer undo by double king eacnayername eco wade fat step Select an outne eolr and NO FLL before Selecting your Bezier Pen tool oar ff your Bezier Po too at by ight ching lon theicon, or aging aro tho tool ba. Sac ine velght at pt nthe Sra panelSTAND Ke AAL ea Co)L Meralco Step step Using te section tol draw amarquee ove the tie teats Lines do not need to bejoined to weatea dosed shape forthe pupese of adding a clou fi Sept although joing bes cn aeate smoother shapes fo ceaner ines. Right clk mouse transform > teflect> vertical > eae 1 you are no planing oa nes at the centre loved dotdovetal ais) ‘ont otyour ade tet the anchor pobts must velop to 200d gaps. Anchor polis can be steps: lage into poston with the diect selection teal DonotDeseect your ebect! Topsttching ines must be ined 2t he garment Holdingyour cursor ove the reflected objects ne cette onto cane back to ate contin in path (rot themarquee) begin raging the copled Saaakanton ject across nto poston Held sit down ant ites youstartmoving the choc tokeep it aligned ‘ony anchor pent canbe ond at anyone tine, ‘withthe erga garment al by using the dct select tool to ether dr 2 marquee over bath anchor potts or Select wth ‘Alternately the keyboard fcrement can be set mouse dy than shift »movse clk elect To ln (Gil ek) witha small increment andthe copled tBanent lf can be tabbed scott poston sng the ao hes. (uo right cid mouse ln. Step Check that the proportion and deta of your sguments ae contec. If no step badhvards (Cl Conc the copied ablect sn poston ican be de- 42)t0 yourerighal gament hal ar reflect nd selected (Ct sft Ao ick ar on sceen Jom againfor accurate rests de your roby aay tom jet. {iking on the eye eon in your ayers at16 only smal changes ae required we the Keyboard Increment ta shen adisting anchor Pots so that the same atertons canbe to oth sider of the garment, or slat madtple anchor pants, drawing a marge ove hem ith the Direct selection tool and adust atthe one Whenever yu are mong anchor points and you ‘want them to remain fine the righ Poston, ld sh down to keep aligned. ‘When you have completed your garment front tool ane copy (A+ Dag) ltr your back vow by ding dling or manipulating les and anchor ow gement components can be selected and rmvored withthe garment, altho for mest ecrate rvs the mired al of the garment Should be deleted ateaions made, emirered DRAWING steps: Select and group garment front view Select and soup garment back ew Hide erg layer + by "leking on the eve lenin the aye panel ‘Diag garment rot an back vow inte poson on your pagar board step 1 you want the back view to appear smal than the font vow, selec the back ew’ tight dick mouse’ tansfom > ales ange % lect on scale sokee and ile >ok Following this process rather than dageng the garment smaller hang Shit down to keep perspective), ensures that ine rncights ore sealed dv according with the abject. Hf you vant the font view to ovelap the back front view tide or mask the back view ovap ‘See Tutor 3 toad colour ‘dd shading and cremelines to cesteamore3 ‘Gvestna station redredDRAWING with Adobe Illustrator Tutorial 3: Adding a colour fill ‘hore are several diferent options avaableto you wher ning Adobe Muntrator toad colour Method « Close line paths 1+ Draw the garment Ine work a a dosed shape shows with 3 coloured then 344 In spiment deta + Archer points must be joined to create osed shapes anduse ths method. + Theproblen withusing hismethodis hateadh area that equres a diferent alow al must be edkawnsta dored shape and he ante gate tine conning, ne problemith:hsmethodithat when ouspph thee aint > ae atin anne work wher line roils have been changed, will ever back to he orga! ine type. To vid hi py make another copy of our stration or Coeppbingyeurlive ait Thi copied version becomes you line work, whist the cial amir canbe colored The ‘coloured version mist beseectduith the selctin tol and Stroke selected ar nae. Une work slecad > rit clck mouse > orange >big to fort > dae enene Ine werk Int postion ver celaured germart (20m infor accuracy in Placement). Coup each version before you degitino place ‘otha ether version con be erly moved inte positon te Command mena > abjet > rou. Method Pathfinder The 5+ option ft ue the Pathfinder took. ‘We nother method that kolaes areas rated with aine + Draw overlapping shapes with the shape tea or Bezier pen Yoo, Use the selection too to 2 Method: Live paint *+ By use the pale bucket toch areas of a + Goto Window (command mens) > Pater» tsarrent divided or cored of by ave are seen Panel open’ Select Patsinder > Divide. 2 isolated areas for the purpose of dropping + Using Direct selection tool dick on tine of 2 colour fbwth your paint bucket. designated shape > dck onto activate > + Draw garment and detatsvithout afl Select colour fom swatch panel (shape wl + Une work doesnot need tobe oied but must with chosen eaour). reetop or avelp tobereadasasepatatestes + Repeat fr ster sections you shape + Select the abject then goto command men > ject > ive pant > make + By electing calor from your snatch mam, select your pat bucket tool located andr the Shape bur far onthe vig sie toolbar of your workapace,andhover bucket over the area yous of + Thesseced are willbe hicighted with red coutine. + Mouse do dropin colo ‘Select other colours and go trough the same proces to fillobjectoth multe lots.Tutorial 4: Creating Symbols Mary ymbolearesvaableintheAdsbetlrtrator symballbrary,o olin for dawnload to be ined in your tecieal drawings, but they are ao ‘lative easy to ceateyoursele, Symbols are generally components of 2 garment that are often repeated in dferent desis, for example buttons, ppl, toga Asyoupreduce moreartwod inthetrator youl velop 2 bray of styles and cemponens that yo can refer to, copy and alter hen produc ew techs drvins Smbols can be saved in eymbel flder and accessed ough the symbols pand in any document Follow these steps Draw your prment componen/acestry Scale some dferent common op tons. ‘tc Symbo eon davis toolbar o pen symbopand Separately dag each object eo your symbol panel ‘ihen an objects dragged to the symbol pane 2 Aalogue box wil appear. Name your ymbal and sweltaragophic ‘Once all symbols have been dragged into the defaut symbol lay, save your Wary t= ‘esgnated flder by dking on symbols Mary ‘ment (bottom lft comer of panel winds) ad ‘lectng Save symbols. Decors you symbol Hbeay trough OhorKbary ude! the symbols rary menu. Simbolscan then bedaged out rom your Wary for ure. Symbol are automatically syouped 38 bets ‘Any inported symbol an be saved and accessed ‘rough Othe ay. AccensAdabe iatator symbol rain though the drop down meander symbols Kray mens vain with Adobe Illustrator Examples of some gaimant acessories that coud be raved araymboefyouhave applied patter oe gasont lor tet lyon sjoet you wllosed to go to Objects expandbetore sang sem When eating texte designs components of you desig can aobesared as symbols [dragged backinto your arta often "ave diferent verslons of the one component iD alleen ser onl ier! colours Qo- Qo-‘The Adobe thsratorswatchbrary has selection cof colour schemes avaiable forse, a well 36 vector pattem graphics. These designs an be ‘hopped into your dhtraton wih the pant bucket fol (refer to Tul 3). The pattern fle that appears in the brary wil repeat when you op tnt alge en To rate abasic ro at pattern youre you too need to wt fom this principle of eating « patter le Follow thes steps ‘eect on the rectangle shape tol icon, (ic oncoon your screen aed doe bos vl Typeln the dimensions ofthe ethat youvant te ‘eat eg jomm x3omm Selec a clour il rom your swatches or colour picker plete Select stroke as none Drag in the symbol that you have crested for repeat nd place over the corner of your the so thatthe centre ofthe smb matdes the commer cof your square te. As you hover ove the camer {your aso vl un wate to inate thatthe Symbols placed nthe conect postin, Sot hoyhoard mczoment (Cll +K) at 30 mm (ot same dimension a tle) Use Alt hey and dectional avons to dibieopy symbol onto ead comme of your te Set keyboard incement at hal te dimension (sn) Tab ass and up with aro tocar of the to py Desdec. Use the selection tol to lk om te ony (oot symbol) ctl +C> Cul +B select flax none ‘Open swatch paetteby selecting oncom 3 ght side toolbar, Draw marquee over thao object and dag your svatchpaete To test that youhave followed each step correct raw alae ectangle andsdetts is the nen patter that you have created Theater should repeat without any whitespace. Fit does not repeat success repeat theprocess. Sveyour swatches unde the swateh iby con toa designate oie Editing swatches Adobe tactratorsvatclrves cn be acessed via the avatch brary con bottom let of swatch ‘indonipanel, Under patems there ate svatches avaable with transparent or coloured backgounds. Those swatches th transparent backgrounds can be topped in over ther sod colous. Coloured seatches can be ete by dropping the nto an abject, selecting, the object > ait (Command tana} > Et colowrs, elect new colers and app Tosi theartworkretedfor one ofthese Adobe swatches sinply dag the svate out fom the ctv sath pand onto your Aboard atthe ‘le by adding or deleting parts of te desig, ot cei the colori the Hopton. Use the rect Selection tol to drai'a marquee over your eed dead dagit back ho the swatch panel Youhave created srw swatch dai Photograpic mages cv alse be placed no yout Artboardand ragged int thesiatch palette to gente repeating pattern tle The Clpping mask hath ool that canbe used tedhop aphotogaphicimageint 2 garment ‘Simpy place the photograpn into your antboard, rag your ted avingove thephetogaph by arangig it to the font Select bath bjects together nth Une selection tool > Object (Commande) » Clipping ask Make‘Tutorial 6: Creating Brushes Creating Ba Adobe tstator enables you tap a rash pattern to any Ie path nthe ‘ample belo have aeatedabindng bh 3 Staidt design, saved it and then appt it 2 fauved line path. The brush design remains Craistent witout any dterdon to te brush ‘design. The method Is fr more accurte thn tng. 10 achieve consistency manual with separate in paths, party around carves, eating simple brush bind Use the Best pan tool 0 dra a stag section of you brushhonzental(ptstroke wiht). Select» Cul +> CaF > St drag copied ne ‘por doomint positon, Sect >» Cis €> Ci +F > St dag ine up or dwn git to este optic ne Select Ine weight a 025 fom Stoke menu, 2pt dhs and sp (Open Brush paetewindow via the icon, eft ide toolbar Sect entre artwork and agit nv your active bre indo Dialogue box wil appeat > Select_pattan brushe Patten Bush options (tame your pate Select ip alone, approximate path and ck) Draw anew line with your Besir pen tol, and we stl sect don thebush thtyoubave Fist cated that appeats in the Brush active nde, Hs py the bush 0 your ne ne path Save your brushes ing the same method sce to save patterns and symbol, but ‘Geoughyour brah brary retina compen bash (rey + Using the Reser pan tool create 2 hoiental stat line pt ine weigh). 4+ brae 9 agit curved line banesth the straight ne enn thatthe anchor pont arlied to the prevousline rm endo end + Add anchor points to your anved linea regular + Usingthe Direct selectontoot dckonone ofthese ‘ew anchor ois to select then manipulate the andes rtatingina docks poston. + Gotothenest anchor pon, selectandrotateinan alouise direction to create rule fet + Continweatong the ine path + Addi dag ne 2¢ chown i the ecampl, to inate the folding and gathering ot fabric + Appl difeeatlne (stoke) pote 2s regres + Use a Wacom tablet and sts to daw ethers ‘sth our perc tooo draw marly ith the mouse. Copy and pst,reflect nd stort the, father than drain mulipe tines. + Onceyouhave completed yourrufle design select, the whee objec, right eck mouse > wanstum > refer > horzomtally > copy’> drag. had shit to thragcopled section of fe ino poston, : Tht 1+ To check continuity of devi sect whole desi >rightdid mouse > transform > reel >vestcaly > copy» dag shit coped rule ass laving small go. + Select and oinines. Manipulate necessary + Select entre ator and save asa Patten brash 235 per sinplebrush Note: Always hep the artwork you have designed to create your brush simbolor attr es roumny wish og backandedititoruse itera barefora new dersBXG Co) TMU teh cole spring 2016 Mans Grandpa syle ude nth Wing ‘ntastkni datl $59 ‘ratablein bite neo. 2. Mltipocket ity short Sith fy ent deta #89 ‘valabein mortar, ng, 2: Anchor pit lang leeved “hath te plce cll, patchpecket andor baton deta 3 ‘alae indigo of mustardpit h Adobe Illustrato! NG Seon ppatchpocer COLOUR PALETTE deta 9 Colours order: Inigo Tangerine Nat Dvalablet mustrdindieo 5. Sty lagretro pant incottonélartane crt fy font andvatstband etal 09, ‘valabein maroon, ideo Sine on late alounay Acre Colouay 8: Manta EE je LDRAWING DETAIL Illustrating Details (Flats for Production) When creating garment flats to be used in a technical pack, garment details may need to be redrawn larger scale to communicate exact and precise information to garment manufacturers. Internal structures of garments may also need to be illustrated if they are unusual or particularly complicated. If you are not sending a sample garment or pattern to your manufacturer you will need to provide them with as much drawn detail as possible, clearly labelled and instructed. ‘Some garments may also need to be drawn asif they are hanging and as they look totally flat so that a patternmaker is able to understand the pattern shape required to achieve the relevant ‘outcome. See example of a circle skirt. Garment Descriptions & Annotations When describing @ garment for the purposes of a specification sheet or range book, keep information clear, concise, relevant and accurate. Annotating illustrations with garment construction information in technical packs requires the same level of detail. Al ofthis information is included in your technical pack, the template of which youwoukl have created in Microsoft Excel, as this allows you to addin formulas for calculating grade rules etc. Illustrations above showing placement of garment technical drawings in relation to the croqui.Angled wide welt breast pocket s6cm x 3c, 2cmangle. Topstitch detail 2mm stitch length, Seam shaping to semi fit jacket Ll 23mm buttonat CF Jet pocket detail cm long x 7mm (2) Dart shaping to jet pocketLayout (Flats for Design/Selling) When creating a range board or range book it is important to plan the arrangement of the information required on each page. This is called your page layout design & itis integral that it remains consistent throughout your document. Consider the design elements (line, colour, texture, scale, shape) and principles of balance, harmony, repetition, focal point, dominance/subordinance, unity, positive/negative space and movement (how the eye reads the page) when designing your page layout. Rate information (graphic and written) in terms of its importance to work out page structures & where the most important information should be placed. Avoid overcrowding your pages with too much information. Draw a rough plan initially to brainstorm different page arrangements, and to compare their viability. Once a layout design is selected set up a system of columns, grids & guidelines (template) to simplify this process for you, and to keep design components within a designated space. When arranging garment front and back views in a document your front view may overlap your back view only when design and construction details on the back view are still clearly visible. Aiternatively front and back views can be kept completely separate, the front being arranged in the primary position, or sleeves can be folded back to minimise use of space. If technical drawings are quite complex, germent internals can be greyed out to differentiate between the garment front andl back. When developing a Wholesale Range Book in hard copy format consider paper types, weights, transparencies and binding options, to produce @ document that reflects the brands aesthetic. Keep type size other than headings 10 or 11 pts in size and choose fonts carefully. Simpler fonts tend to work more successfully when a lot of written information is required. To retain the reader's attention a range book should demonstrate flow, consistency and interest. Fashion illustrations or photographic images may be used to reinforce the mood of a particular collection, o to separate capsule ranges within a collection. Fashion Ilustrations are generally hight stylised, evocative representations of garments on figures. Fabric swatches may be included in your range book, or on a separate header so that they can be felt easily (either way they must be cut and presented neatly - try using tape on the reverse side of your fabric and pinking shears to cut them a consistent size.) Range books should also include all relevant technical information relating to your garment designs.(o}¥) 4 4 ems Variation in garment layout for trade flat illustra’ 1. Garment front & back views are shown totally separately so that all detailis easily visible 2. Garment front view overlaps back view. Allessential detailis stllvisible on one side of the back view. 3. To reduce the size of the technical drawing further the back view scale may be reduced. adopting this technique make sure that all your front and back views are a consistent size. See following pages for examples of page layout & trade flats fora Wholesale Range Book. Whichever method you use make sure that you apply it consistently in relation to scale and spacing. Take into consideration negative space to allow your layout design to breathe.LAYOUT1. Say DueNIte 2. Avocado 2 Lemarcnavoal mare Cotaneiastae cawal mers Tan wth angle path paket deal nya rezk and cortras ror yoke Front views can be stacked together when showing different colourways available in a particular styl,PACKAGING DESIGN Hintod—When designing packaging ensure that your designs show a sense of consistency in applying the elements ‘of design - colour, line, scale, shape & texture ot pattern Designs must relate to each other, as ‘well as working asa successful branding tool. Also consider how much your design pops (what information ismost dominant) and what kind of feeting evokes, Does it reflect your product range. SEW IN LABELS SWING TAG DESIGN °CHAPTER 3 Garment components This chapter gives examples of common garment components, drawn as trade flats. Garment components may be called different names depending on the country that you workin, Many components also have multiple names (| have included some examples.) Check with the company that you work for what namesilanguage they use to avoid issues with communication. Communication with your manufacturer is the key. Garment samples will generally need to be provided to your manufacturer, as well asa full technical pack. Technical packs willinclude base size measurements, grade rules and graded measurements for each size, notions/accessories required, trade flat technical draw black and white only, fabric codes, care instructions, production schedule, construction dotails, delivery dates etc. In many cases CAD pattern files will also be emailed to the ‘manufacturer. STITCH DETAILSTI LATED MACHINE SEA WITH OESLOCK Ger) SAY STEHED nt) MHA OR WELTEDILATSELEDLIEANS)hoe C) one 58 |Ae) eiZIP DETAIL. JEANSWEAR/HARDWARE ww e = ||O°/o ‘comm f(eal aa es Technical drawing This chapter includes examples of full garments drawn as Trade Flats, relating to different garment categories. | have inchucled garment descriptions and fabric swatches to introduce the industry language used in a wholesale range book. Use this as a reference guide as you build up your own design library of shapes and styles. ‘When designing refer to actual garments, previous designs and garment construction methods to illustrate garments correctly as technical drawings for sampling and production. When referring to a colour to be used to print or dye a textile use the internationally recognised Pantone” Colour Matching system. TPX code refers to textiles. ean {Ribbit cottn singe with atlocked hale andnecine, lind sth en Mhle’s hove shot wid elortckod ‘rae and front Phinveaveo kt ferey thease band,eaekt ffi? Biber? EESSE gibaeSAMs“uth kangaroo pocket » screen printed ‘oversized tt vith set in sleve and ‘htm, 2. Multpocet boadsort ith apsttch deta ‘ndeordtetrent opering,ACTIVEWEARBaasJEANSWEAR+. Wool mein european style bomber jacket th concealed 2 opening, ‘ante ron duble pocket sane sted suds and ling, 2: Ragan slaee cntanlaetane shit ith b neck nd edocve bind 3, Sandashedcoton mul pocket chin pant.Short sleeved casual shi ith double button detaing on path pockets. cotton ym dj chek. 2. Sandwashed amie pocket short vith belt ops, 4) font and double pleat etal at ait. 2: Wonlpeljeste wadding! cotton jase, eversble paler vest ts conte ont exposed ip deta igh stand calor and wal std pockets. rs)«ned, ly fachoned tt sweater nfine gage mena wool 2. Reto sylemens button ont catdganin woolaaryicblend ithe kati ahem, ‘aif ad front neck opening“Pole neck stestrin fe gage angors wool with: tim at cand he. "Cable kat cow nec sweater nah agli sleeve120) ValaWORKWEARINDEX OF GARMENT CATEGORIES activewear 45 ‘Sweat pants, cycling jersey, running shorts, sleeveless vest ‘casual day wear 48.49 Bomber jacket, raglan Tshirt chino pant, shit, puffer vest, shorts Fally fashioned ks sweater, cardigan, cable knit jumper, poto Jeanswear Denim jacket, jeans, biker jacket, western shirt Sleepwear a Pylamas Sportswear 3 Polo Tshirt, giletjvest, multi pocket pant 5435 Blazer, tailored jacket, slim it shir, pant sSurfwear 443 Hoodie, printed Tshirt, boardshorts, wetsult ‘Swimwear ns Bathers, ashe vest, Tshirt, boardshorts Workwear 53 Safety shirt, short, fong sleeved shirt underwear 40 Singlet, Boxer shorts, -front jocksMerrin Stacey Cameron graduated from RMIT with p Bachelor of ‘Arts (Fashion) in 1991, & since then has worked extensively within the Melbourne Fashion Industry as Designer, jPatternmaker Textile/Graphic Designer and Product Developer (Menswear, } Womenswear and Homewares). She has seen the Fashion industry evolve from atime when all trade sketching was created manually ‘and specification sheets faxed to factories in China, toatime When | industry standards require that trades be created electyOnically and communicated via email, | / \ ' Mettin also halls 4 Gtaduatel Diplomd af Edbcatfon (llRourie \ University) & in 2010 began lecturing at TAFE SA inboth Design and, Patternmaking as part of the Applied Fashion Design and \ ology qualifications available (Diploma, Advanged Diploma, |) Bachelor with Flinders Universit). Her teaching experience has allowed her insight into the way students learn anid this is the reasoning behind producing “Fashion Flats”, to provide relevant, | accurate and current technical drawing information. |