Camera Stabilizer Plans An instructional manual on how to build a full stabilizer rig by Cody DeeganTable of Contents Tools Needed 5 Introduction 6 Building the Sled 8 Building the Arm 31 Building the Front-Mount Vest 48 Setting up the Stabilizer 59 Extension Spring Chart 60 How to Balance 6r Checking Z-axis tilt 65 Checking X-axis tilt 66 Building a Low-Angle Bracket 67 Building a Balancing Stand 71 Safety Tips 73 Building the Back-Mount Vest 77CII Da aa | Tools Needed Ruler with measurements in 16ths Flexible measuring tape Power hand drill Drill press* Drill press vise* Chop saw* 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2” wrenches and/or sockets allen wrenches Phillips screwdriver Centerpunch Metal file 55/64”, 27/32”, 1/2”, 5/16”, 1/4”, 3/16” drill bits 10-24 tap and matching #25 drill bit 1/4-20 tap and matching #7 drill bit 5/16-18 tap and matching 17/64” drill bit 3/8-16 tap T-handle tap wrenches 1/2” rotary file 2” x 1” 60 grit flap wheel bubble level hammer pencil C-clamps Rattail file 45-45-90 triangle Dremel tool (optional) * Alocal maul sp ean do all tb euting and ding, a well asthe 2 welds sd. Measure eve ing ot beforehand and mark ial leary, The es work sop has do,INTRODUCTION The camera stabilizer represented in these plans has been designed solely for the purpose of achieving a simple, durable, yet economical construction coupled with extreme functionality. A Canon XL-1 was used to test the rig, and performance was exceptional. Given the weight of the camera fully loaded was about 8 pounds, anyone using this design for other cameras will need to be aware that different springs will be needed — there is no spring-tension adjustment on the arm. Instructions for proper setup of differing camera/monitor/battery combinations are included. The stage can be fine tuned left —right and forward — back. The sled telescopes from 22 inches to 40 inches. The gimbal assembly utilizes six bearings for fluidity, can be fine-tuned for balance requirements, and can be 6 Camera Stabilizer Plans adjusted easily up and down the main shaft of the sled. The vest allows for adjustments in size, but the builder may need to alter the design to suit the operator’s unique build and stature. The rig is constructed almost entirely in aluminum to assure a durable and somewhat light-weight setup, but be aware that building this stabilizer is a labor-intensive project. Having a metal shop cut all the aluminum and drill all the holes is convenient, but expensive. The majority of the materials can be found at a hardware store. A few items may need to be ordered. The plans include a list of all materials needed and step-by- step instructions on how to construct the stabilizer, with clear, concise illustrations throughout.= a PADDED EEDA NOTES The Manfrotto 679 monopod can be found at many online camera shops. It is also referred to as a Bogen 3016. Metal fabrication, welding, and machine shops should have aluminum, The stabilizer represented in these plans was built with 5000 and 6000 series aluminum. For the main gimbal bearing, there are many online shops if one cannot be found locally. There is no high-speed movement involved with a stabilizer so almost any bearing will work (Obviously bearings can be extremely varied and an actual Steadicam rig would require tight tolerances on its bearings, but that subject is beyond the scope of this manual), Skateboard bearings are easily found in any skate shop. ABEC 3 or 5 are preferable. Flanged bearings are more expensive but are much easier to work with. Keep in mind this manual deals with the use of skate bearings. Cork/rubber gasket material and weatherstrip adhesive can be found at an automotive supply store. 1050 Denier Cordura can be difficult to locate and expensive. Please note that virtually any medium to heavy-weight fabric will work fine. Foam padding can be found at fabric stores and is easily cut with scissors or a knife. Most of the sewing can be done with a sewing machine, but expect to do some by hand as well. All nuts and bolts are coarse thread — not fine. They are considered a UNC type. Stop nuts are also called lock nuts with nylon inserts. If holes are not lining up precisely when assembling, hold the pieces together and use a power hand drill to run a bit through the parts in question. Please ensure everything is tightened down securely before use. Camera Stabilizer Plans can assume no responsibility for damage to equipment due to poor craftsmanship or misuse. Camera Stabilizer Plans 7Building the Sled k Quantity qd) qd) qd) qd) a (2) (3) (3) (a a) Q) a) (2) a) 8 Camera Stab Size Manfrotto 679 us” x 13” x 13” ua” x 1 12” x 10” 18” x 1” x 30” wa” x 212” rx 1” ie” x 1” op x 2:12” ine” x 3/4” x 25 1/8" 1 us” x 2 12” x 58” 5/16” ID X 7/8” OD 10-24 x 1/2” 10-24 x 1/2” 10-24 10-24 14-20 X 5” 4-20 x 1” 4-20 X 3/4” a” 14-20 14-20 14-20. 4” 5/16-18 X 2 1/2” 5/16-18 X 1 12” 516-18 sil6-18 3a” x 8” ID 134” x 6 34” small tube individual P ier Plans Description three-section monopod flat aluminum: flat aluminum aluminum angle aluminum pipe aluminum pipe (optional) aluminum square tube pan ball bearing skateboard wheel bearings socket head set screw machine screws washers hex nuts hex bolts hex bolt allen socket screws washers wing nuts nuts set screws (allen) hex bolt (full thread) hex bolts stop nut hex nuts galvanized bushing 90-degree EMT elbow (std rad) cork/rubber gasket material 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive bubble levels shaft collar (optional) PAP AP RAPP HRAWVU TA ea aaa aaa The base, camera plate, battery plates, x-axis plate, and z-axis plate can all be cut from the 1/8” x 13” x 13” flat aluminum. Carefully measure and layout all cut lines. Allow at least 1/16” space for each cut.LY = 5/16" hole @> = Whole 12" }—}— base ‘The shape of the base is not necessary - I had originally modeled my design after the Glidecam and later realized the shape serves no purpose. 10. Camera Stabler Planety = 3/16" hole 4@-=1/4 hole After all the pieces are cut out, ensure all edges are smoothed down. Layout measurements for the holes and the slots as shown. Use a centerpunch to mark the center of each hole. It is recommended to have a metal shop cut the long, rectangular slots. A less efficient method would be to drill two adjacent holes at the start of each slot to allow a reciprocating saw blade access. Use a dremel tool after the cuts to smooth out the slot. Camera Stabilizer Plans 11+ cur” 5 Li <— cut 5” { <— cut = pole A pole B pole G 9 discard > @ Dismantle the monopod completely. Cut a 5” section fron Pole A - this will be the gimbal slide. Cut a 2” section from Pole B - this will be a reducer for the gimbal handle. Remove the top stoppers from Pole B and Pole C.-_ A = BUVG GET Polle B needs to be welded to the center of the x-axis plate. Palle C needs to be welded to the center of the base plate. Leave these xt 5/16" @® =v" hte \ a ti Pole B Pole C Aer dling shrough. widen these holes 1/2" From the 1/16” x 3/4” x 25 1/8” aluminum square tube, cut two 12 1/2” pieces. Drill two 3/16” holes in each as shown above using the holes in the base as a guide. Widen one side to 1/2”. Insert four 10-24 x 1/2” screws with washers into the wid- ened holes using a magnetized screwdriver, Attach to the sled base with four 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 13Cut a slit on three sides of the gimbal slide about an inch long (a jigsaw works well for this). The main bearing needs to fit into the 2 1/2” ID x 1” aluminum pipe. Use a 60-grit flap wheel mounted to a hand drill to sand down the inside of the pipe until the bearing fits snugly inside. Let the pipe cool down after sanding before trying to insert the bearing. If not, the aluminum will contract and the bearing will be extremely difficult to remove. 1M Camera Stabilier Plans PRO AUAEAHAHRHAHHMA HPP RPP RRRLay the bearing on a smooth, hard surface. Position the slitted-end of the slide into the bearing. Rest a block of wood on top of the tube and gently pound with a ham- mer until the slide is completely inserted (fig. 1). Using a rotary file attached to a hand drill, file down the raised guides in- side the tube at the bearing end (fig.2). File about an inch down the length of the guides to allow the tube to slide freely on the | main shaft. Use a right angle to ensure the slide is perpendicular to the bearing (fig.3). Use the hammer to adjust the slide if needed. Next, insert the bearing (with slide at- tached) into the aluminum pipe collar. If the bearing will not go in, take a larger pipe and place it onto the bearing. Using the block of wood, gently hammer the bearing into the collar. Camera Stabilizer Plans 15, VETAttach the fastener to the end of the tube. _ Slide the gimbal assembly onto Pole B. | Ff Put a fastener on Pole C and then insert Pole C into Pole B. Attach the fastener to the end of Polls B. POOR OPTRA nnnnnanAaA aaaAUT With the sled flat on the floor, tape a pencil securely to a door frame at gimbal height. Use a level against the main shaft to assure it is perfectly vertical. Wedge washers underneath the base to adjust if nec- essary. Set the middle of the collar against the pencil and slowly rotate the bearing until a line has been drawn completely around the collar. Remove the bearing from the collar. Using a cloth measuring tape, VERY CAREFULLY mark out two points equal distance from each other along the pencil line (one method is to measure completely around the collar and then divide by two). Choose a mark, - measure out 1/4” on both sides of it, and plot two more points. Secure the collar in a vise and mark all four points with a centerpunch. Drill the three grouped points with a 5/16” drill bit, and the point on the opposite side with a 17/64” drill bit. Thread the 17/64” hole with a 5/16-18 tap. Camera Stabilizer Plane 17At the points where the three holes intersect, the drill bit can be used again to remove the tips of metal. A dremel tool will easily smooth out the slot. w/6t" Layout four marks equidistant from each other on the pencil line (measure around the — *. pipe and divide the measurement by four). A 17/64” hole that was just drilled should lay halfway between two of the marks. Centerpunch and drill with a #7 bit. Thread all four holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Cut a 1/8” x 5/8” x 1” piece of aluminum angle and set it on the collar overlapping the slot. Use a pencil to mark the slot opening onto the angle piece. Ce SS Also mark where the inside edge of the collar meets the angle. HUAAKTHARAHHAPRAnaneaneaa ee. 18 Camera Stabler Planscur The idea here is to place a 17/64” hole * in the angle bracket that lines up with the slot in the collar, and also to place a #25 hole in the bracket that will allow a set screw to pass through and rest against the inside of the collar. Remove the excess metal from the top of the angle piece with a grinder. 8 Set the angle piece in a vise with the slot marks facing up and mount to the drill press. Use the pencil marks as a guide to line up a 17/64” drill bit in the center of the angle bracket. Drill the hole and then thread it with a 5/16-18 tap. 17164" dil bit Adjust the aluminum angle in the vise so the other side is facing up. Use the pencil mark to line up a #25 drill bit in the center of the angle. Drill the hole and thread with a 10-24 tap. 25 drill bit Aaa Camera Stabilizer Plans 19Reinsert the bearing into the collar, then screw in four 1/4-20 x 1/4” set screws to hold the bearing in place. 35/16” From the 1/4” x 1 1/2” x 10” flat aluminum, aes layout measurements and cut the metal into (mssiewsifrss) three pieces. Grind all the edges smooth. 33/8" | =i (opace allowed for cut) Bua” 35/16" If you are using a chop saw to cut the metal, you can use the side of the saw blade as a grinder to smooth out the edges after a cut. 20° Camers Stabilier Plane ARARARARAARATDTHAHRRARKAnnnannannaee.Weld the three pieces together into a U-shape. Maintain a 3 3/8” distance. between the vertical pieces. the lead. To accurately find the center point for the 17/64” hole, tape a bubble level LENGTHWISE on top of the U-joint, hold a pencil vertically with the tip up and balance the U-joint on 3378" WELD WELD Measure and mark the location for a 27/32” hole on one of the vertical pieces. Set the entire U- joint on the edge of a table to centerpunch the mark. r= Adjust the U-joint on the pencil until it is bal- anced. Mark the balancing point. Reposition the U-joint on the pencil and lay the bubble level CROSSWISE. Adjust the U-joint until it is balanced. Mark the spot. Cen- terpunch where the pencil marks intersect. Camera Stabilzer Plans 21Don’t forget to drill the 17/64” hole in the center of the U-joint. Use a 5/16-18 tap to thread the hole. Set the U-joint on a piece of wood and clamp to the drill press table. Line up a 27/32” drill bit with the centerpunched mark on the U-joint and drill through both vertical pieces. Next, use a 55/64” drill bit and pass it through the top hole. Then flip the U- joint over and pass the 55/64” drill bit through the other hole. What this does is to widen the 27/32” holes just slightly 55/64" drill bie enough to allow the skateboard bearings to fit. AARARARAARRARRRR. Lay the U-joint over the edge of a sturdy table. Place a bearing on the hole just drilled, set a piece of wood over the bearing, then use a hammer to pound the bearing tightly into the U- joint. Make sure the bearing is flush. Put another bearing into the other side. 22 Camera Stabler Pane oe we adie lie ial RillCut the ends off the EMT pipe as 15/32" Shown. Insert the 2” piece of pipe cut from the monopod into the straighter end of the curved pipe by placing a piece of wood over it and pounding with a hammer. The smaller pipe acts as a reducer to create a tighter fit for the bearings which will be added in a later step. 5/16” hex nuts i> iP 5/16” x2 1/2" full chread hex bole PIIB atop mire Insert a 5/16-18 x 2 1/2” full thread hex bolt through the U-joint and add (3) bearings, (3) 5/16-18 hex nuts, and a 5/16-18 stop nut, 3/4" x 1/8" bushing Pound a bushing into the end of the EMT pipe with a hammer, then drill a #7 hole through the pipe and the bushing. The hole does not need to go completely through - just drill to the center of the bushing. Camera Stabilizer Plans 23 GsTo accurately find the hole placements for the gimbal handle, line up the end of the EMT pipe with the center of the first nut on the U-joint bearing assembly. The space between the bearings should be about 1/4”, just enough room to insert two 1/4-20 set screws. Mark four lines on the EMT pipe that coincide with these spaces and centerpunch two points directly in the center of the lines. Drill two #7 holes through one side of the pipe only. | wpriew ©) Mark a point on the other side of the EMT pipe that coincides with the center of the first bearing. Centerpunch and drill through one side only with a #7 drill bit. 24 Camera Stabilizer Plans Now mark a point on the top of the EMT pipe that coincides with the center of the first bearing (make sure the front of the pipe is still lined up with the center of the first nut). Centerpunch the point and drill through one side only with a #7 drill bit. PRORRAHREHRAAATARTAHHHAnHnnnnnnnnyDUPRE aaa aaa Thread all five holes in the EMT pipe with a 1/4-20 tap. Jem Insert the U-joint bearing assembly into the pipe. First, screw in two 1/4-20 x 1/4” set screws into the “spacer” holes. These keep the assembly from falling out of the pipe. If you tighten them too much, they will contact the nuts and the assembly will not turn. Next, insert two set screws onto the first bearing. These keep the assembly from wobbling around inside the pipe. If you tighten them too much, the bearing will distort and not turn freely. Spin the U- joint to make sure it rotates freely, then jiggle it to make sure it does not wobble around. Adjust the set screws if necessary. When satisfied, a bit of J-B weld can be used on each set screw to hold it in place. This step is optional due to its permanency. Use a 1/4-20 x 3/4” socket head screw for the hole at the bottom of the pipe. This is used to lock the pipe to the arm, which eliminates any jolts that can occur while running with the rig. Camera Stabler Plans 25Take two 5/16-18 x 1 1/2” full thread hex bolts and mount a 5/16-18 stop nut on each. Insert the bolts through the bearing holes in the U-joint. Thread one directly into the main collar. Thread the other one through the right angle bracket and into the slot in the collar until it seats against the main bearing. Insert a 10-24 x 1/2” socket head screw down through the bracket until it seats firmly against the bearing. This completes the assembly of the gimbal mechanism. Instructions for how to adjust the gimbal to achieve a dynamic balance are explained at the end of the book. 26 Camera Stabilizer Plans RAAOTDDAHRALTFAAAAAAAAAHHAHAAHHHHnonanne.Wr = 3/16" hole ———— ee @ -#7 hole 5/16" Four pieces need to be cut from the aluminum angle: two 8” parts and two 5” parts. The 8” pieces need slots cut. Drill all holes as shown using the camera plate holes as a guide for the 8” pieces and the z-axis plate holes as a guide for the 5” pieces. Tap the #7 holes with a 1/4-20 tap. eas es Attach the slot- ted 8” aluminum angle pieces to the camen plate using four 10-24 x 1/2” screws, four 10-24. washers, and four 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 27Use a 1/4-20 tap to thread the #7 holes in the z-axis plate. Use four 10-24 x 1/2” screws, four 10-24 washers, and four 10-24 nuts to attach the 5” alu- minum angle pieces to the z-axis plate. 28 Camera Stabllzer Plans Put the camera plate as- sembly onto the z-axis plate assembly. AAARAARRAAARATAAARHAAHAHAATAHHHHHHaae.QUT G ERT Mount the entire stage assembly onto the x-axis plate. Secure it with four 1/4” washers and four 1/4-20 x 3/4” allen socket screws going up through the slots. Insert four 1/4” x 3/4” allen socket screws with washers through the sides of the stage assembly. Put a 1/4” wingnut backwards on a 1/4” x 1” hex bolt. Insert the bolt up through a hole in the feamerayplatcy Insert two 1/4” x 5” bolts with two 1/4” washers through the holes in the battery plate. Run the bolt ends through the slot in the sled base. Add the other battery pilatte, two 1/4” washers, and secure with two 1/4” nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 29Using weatherstrip adhe- sive, attach cork gasket ma- terial to the camera pllate. If more weight is needed on the base: Slide a 1” od x 2 1/2” pipe over the lower shaft. Add dumbbell weights to the pipe (see page 59 for proper amount of weight to use). A 1” shaft collar can be mounted above the weights to hold in place. Put the gimbal assembly onto the upper shaft. Reassemble the sled and lock down the fasteners. Bubble levels can be attached with weatherstrip adhesive, one lengthwise and one crosswise. They can be placed on the camera stage or on the base to assist in balancing the sled. 30° Camera Stabilizer Plans POUR annnnnnnnnannnnnannnngannagr.Quantity (1) (1) (4) (1) (24) (22) (31) (21) (23) (8) (8) (8) (11) (22) (11) (1) (4) Size ve”x 1 1/4" x 40” 14” x 1” x 76” 1a" x 2 172" x 2 12! va” x 3" x 14” 5/16” ID x 7/8”0D 5/6” 10-24 x 2” 10-24 10-24 1/4-20 x 2” a” 1/4-20 5/16-18 x 4” 5/16-18 5/16-18 3/8-16 x 1 1/4” 15” K 4.5" x Description aluminum square tube aluminum square tube flat aluminum steel angle ABEC 3 skateboard wheel bearings washers machine screws washers hex nuts bolts (grade 8) washers stop nuts hex bolts (full thread) hex nuts stop nuts hex bolt (full thread-grade 8) extension springs (see chart p.60) Camera Stabllzer Plans 31 Building the Armad @ BONES pe" te 2 uw @ av8 tee ~f- rise tote Eight “bones” need to be cut from the 1/8” x 1” x 76” aluminum square tube. Each bone is 9” in length. Measure and cut one at a time. Grind or file the edges after each cut. ruler pencil Take a bone and measure in from the edge 1/2” on both ends as shown. Mark the spots with a pencil. : Now lay the ruler so that both marks rest on its edge and connect them with a pencil line. 82 Camera Stabilizer PlansVUUVWURT UU make a pencil mark. Set a centerpunch at each mark and give it a good tap with a hammer. On the side of the bone, measure across 7/8” from one end, 1/2” up from the edge, and mark with a pencil. This is where a 1/4” hole will be drilled. Centerpunch. 64” drill bit drill bit 1/4" drill bit ‘T-handle tap wrench 3/8-16 tap 5/16-18 tap Set the marked tube onto another tube and clamp them both to the drill press table. Make sure the bones are flush with each other. Drill a 17/64” hole at each cen- terpunched mark completely through both bones. Camera Stabilizer Plans 3Take one of the bones just drilled and use it as a template: set it onto one of the undrilled tubes. Use the holes as a guide to line up the drill bit and bore through both bones. Repeat this process for all the remaining bones so that they all have the exact same hole place- ments. Remember the mark you made for the 1/4” hole on the side of the first tube? Set this bone on top of another and drill the hole through both tubes. 1/4” drill " against the posts as shown and mark the’ hole placements. Centerpunch and drill with a 3/16” drill bit. post B and post D 55/64” drill bit ” drill bit C-clamp Set post D onto post C and clamp to the drill press table. Use a 27/32” drill bit to bore completely through both posts at the crosshairs on post D. Then remove the posts from the drill press and clamp post A onto post B. Also drill two 27/32” holes VUDU UU through both pieces. Camera Stabilizer Plans 3955/64” drill bit hammer block of wood Place a skateboard bearing onto one of the holes of post D. Set a piece of wood on top of the bearing, then pound gently until the bearing is seated flush inside the post. Set three more bearings into the post. It may be necessary to file the inside edges of the 55/64” holes slightly with a round file or rotary file to allow insertion of the bear- ings, Next, use a 55/64” drill bit and pass it through all four holes in each post one-by-one. The pur- pose for this step is as follows: when drilling completely through the posts with the 27/32” drill bit, the top hole may widen slightly as the bottom holes are being bored. To bring all the holes back to the same size, it is necessary to drill each one individually with a slightly bigger bit. Repeat this process for the remaining three posts. 40 Camera Stabilizer PlansPhillips screwdriver 3/8” wrench or socket Attach two of the steel angle pieces to post B and post D as shown with six 10-24 x 2” screw, six 10-24 washers, and six 10-24 nuts. Attach the two more steel angle pieces to post C with six 10-24 x 2” screws, six washers, and six nuts. Attach the angle piece to post A as shown. (3) 10-24 x 2” machine screws (3) 10-24 washers (3) 10-24 hex nuts Mark a hole placement on the bottom of the steel angles on both arm segments. This part is a little tricky: Set each bracket assembly on a piece of wood and clamp to the drill press table. Make sure the clamp is not in the path of the drill bit. Drill 5/16” hole through both angle pieces in one pass. If the bit will not reach the bottom angle, stop the drill and raise the table with the bit still inside the first hole, then proceed. Camera Stabilizer Plans 41 AQVQU URI Ga aaa aaa1/2” wrench or socket two 7/16” wrenches or sockets (8) 5/16” washers (4) 5/16-18 x 4” full thread hex bolts Pay careful attention to how the posts and bones are oriented when assembling: the BOTTOM of post Ais situated near the 1/4” hole in one of the bones, and the TOP of post B is situated near the 1/4” hole in the other bone. Thread each of the bolts partially up through the bones and the bearings in the posts. Add two 5/16” hex nuts and spin them up the shaft with your fingers. STOP thread- ing the bolts just as the end passes through the top washer on the post. 42 Camera Stabilizer Plans ‘STOP the bolts hereSAA Set tube A and B in place as shown so the i holes line up with the bolts. Again, make sure they are oriented correctly by noting where the 1/4” holes are at. Place clamps lightly on the bones as shown to hold them in place while the bolts are completely thread- ed in. Secure the bolts with stop nuts. 2 (4) 5/16-18 stop nuts 4 Insert four of the 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts into the 1/4” holes on the bones as shown. Add a washer and a stop nut to each bolt, but only thread the stop nut far enough to keep it on the end of the bolt. (4) 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts — (4) 1/4” washers (4) 1/4-20 stop nuts Camera Stabilzer Plans 43(8) 5/16” washers (4) 5/16-18 x 4” full thread hex bolts The assembly process for the second arm segment is identical to the first. Pay careful attention to how all the bones are oriented. 44 Camera Stabilizer Plans pose C Serre ita ae CAEL sate nike Goa Wee Oe Be(AAA aaa Insert four of the 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts into the 1/4” holes on the bones as shown. Add a washer and a stop nut to each bolt, but only thread the stop nut far enough to keep it on the end of the bolt. (4) 1/4-20 x 2” hex bolts (4) 1/4” washers (4) 1/4-20 stop nuts Insert a 3/8” x 1 1/4” full-thread grade 8 hex bolt up through the angle piece. Get it nice and tight. T used a hand grinder to shave off the threads of the bolt @ after it was tightened into the an- gle piece so that it would fit snug into the bushing on the gimbal handle. Another option is to use a 3/8” x 3 1/2” grade 8 bolt, use a 3/8-16 die and stock to cut threads down to 1/2” from the Q hex cap, then have a metal shop remove the last 2 3/4” of threads. This will improve stability. Camera Stabilizer Plas 45Attaching the elbow is very tricky. A 5/16” washer needs to be placed atop each bearing and the entire assmbly fitted into the steel angles. The bearings can be pushed up or down slightly with a wrench to adjust the fit, which should be snug. Insert a 5/16” x 4” bolt down through the assembly. Slip on two 5/16” nuts as the bolt progresses. You should be able to use your fingers to spin them into the proper position above each bearing. Screwdrivers can also be used to wedge the nuts still as you wrench the bolt down. 5/16” stop nuts can be added to the ends. When complete, you'll have excess bolt hanging out which you can cut off if you want. 46 Camera Stabler Plans PARAKRARARARAAAARARARARARARARARRRPS .MUU Attach the shoulder joint assembly to the post D brackets in the same manner as the elbow joint using a 5/16” x 4” full thread bolt, two 5/16 nuts, and two 5/16” washers if needed. Put a 5/16” stop nut on the end of the bolt. Attach the four springs and the arm is complete. Camera Stabilizer Plans 47Quantity (a Q) qd) (14) (4) (4) @5) (22) qd) qd) (2) (2) (2) (6) ql) ay 16D) qd) Size 14” x 2 3/4” x 13” 38” x 4" x 17” us” x 7” x 10” 10-24 x 1” 10-24 x 34” 10-24 x 12” 10-24 10-24 5/16-18 x 4” 5/16” ua”? X 3/4” ua) ua” 150” 30” x 70” 10” x 25” va” x 30” x 45” 48 Camera Stabler Plans Description flat aluminum flat aluminum flat aluminum machine screws machine screws machine screws washers nuts hex bolt (grade 8) wingnut hex bolts washers knobs (female) buckles strap material 1050 denier cordura (or medium to heavyweight material) 1050 denier cordura foam pad Building the Front-Mount Vest AHAARARAKRANDARARARAAAHRAARAAARAARARAREe wire hanger Layout measurements for the waist plate on the 3/8” x 4” x 17” flat aluminum. Drill all holes accordingly. The aluminum needs to be bent in four places. To do so, make a guide with a wire clothes hanger by bending at the measured points. Fit the hanger to your hips and adjust the bends. Use the wire guide to tell how much the aluminum needs to be bent. Camera Stabler Plans 49@ =1/4" hole 2122" 21/2" @ = 3/16" hole oO 312° a0 3472" Use the 1/3” x 7” x 10” piece of flat aluminum to make the chest plate. Drill holes, cut out the shape, then bend the extended sides slightly. 50 Camera Stabler PlansHTATDAIDTATATTTPADTATAA Aaa aaa aaa 3/8" Use the 1/4” x 2 3/4” x 13” flat aluminum to build the vertical brace. All holes are 3/16”. The bottom four can be traced from the waist plate for better alignment. Cut two vertical 1/4” slots as shown using the 1/4” holes from the chest plate as a guide. Using the steel angle left over from the arm materials, cut two 1 1/4” pieces. Drill three 3/16” holes all the way through. 13" 19/16" 3/16" holes aie (2) is very sharp. ha¥ Be sure to grind all the edges with the side of the chop saw or a grinder - steel Camera Stabllzer Plans 5110-24x1/2" G 10-24 x1" Set the angle pieces against the waist plate and trace the holes. Centerpunch and drill with a 3/16” bit. 52 Camera Stabilizer Plans ARAKRKRARKRANARAARAARAKRAAARAARARARRARKR.UDP DAR TTD Attach the last buckle to the left side of the waist plate with two 10-24 x 3/4” machine screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts. Line up the steel angle pieces with the holes in the waist plate. Insert six 10-24 x 1” machine screws with six 10-24 washers. Tf the screws do not push easily through both components, run a 3/16” drill bit through the waist plate and steel angle holes with a power drill. Tighten everything together with six 10-24 nuts. Run a 5/16” drill bit down through the steel pieces. Attach a buckle to the right side of the waist plate with two 10-24 x 3/4” machine screws, four 10-24 washers, and two 10-24 nuts. Camera Stabilizer Plans 53