INTRODUCTION

GENERAL erates a high voltage in the secondary winding of the

coil. The distributor sends this high voltage to each
This section has the descriptions and service procedures spark plug at the correct time for combustion.
for the electrical systems of the Mazda M4–121G gaso-
When the engine is running, current flows from the bat-
line or LPG engine. This section includes the starting,
tery, through the key switch, ballast resistor*, coil and
ignition and charging systems.
distributor contacts, and returns to the battery. The bal-
last resistor* decreases the voltage to the primary wind-
DESCRIPTION
ing of the coil. The magnetic field and high voltage from
Starting System (See FIGURE 1.) the secondary winding also decreases. The higher volt-
age and hotter spark necessary to start the engine is not
The starting system includes the starter battery, key necessary to keep the engine running. The distributor
switch and neutral start switch. The starter solenoid is operates in the same way during starting or running. The
energized when current flows through the key switch, later models have electronic ignition. There are no dis-
neutral start switch and solenoid. The solenoid magneti- tributor contacts, and the ignition circuit does not re-
cally pushes the clutch out to engage the engine fly- quire a ballast resistor and relay.
wheel teeth. The solenoid also closes contacts to ener-
gize the starter motor. The operations occur at approxi- * Parts used on earlier production only.
mately the same time. The motor torque is applied just
as the teeth engage. The key switch must be in the Start
position. The neutral start switch must also be in the On
position to energize the starter. The neutral start switch
is in the On position when the transmission is in the Neu-
tral position.

On earlier production units: The Start position of the key

switch also energizes a relay. The relay contacts com-
plete the circuit for a by–pass of the ballast resistor of the
ignition circuit. A hotter spark occurs at the spark plugs
during starting.

Ignition System (See FIGURE 2.)

The ignition system generates a spark at each spark plug

to start combustion in each cylinder. The ignition sys-
tem has the following main parts: battery, key switch,
ballast resistor*, relay*, coil, distributor, spark plugs
and wires.

If the engine is starting, current flows from the battery,

through the key switch and the neutral start switch to en-
ergize the relay*. Current also flows through the key 1. BATTERY
2. KEY SWITCH
switch, relay contacts*, coil primary and distributor 3. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
contacts*. On later models, an oil pressure switch or 4. BALLAST RESISTOR RELAY *
vacuum switch may be in the ignition circuit. The dis- 5. TO IGNITION CIRCUIT
tributor contacts* open and close as the starter rotates 6. STARTER
7. “S” TERMINAL
the engine crankshaft. The opening and closing of the 8. BATTERY TERMINAL
contacts causes the primary current and magnetic field
FIGURE 1. THE STARTING CIRCUIT
in the coil to change. The changing magnetic field gen-

1
 3**

9578
* ON EARLIER PRODUCTION ONLY
1. BATTERY 5. BALLAST RESISTOR *
** ON LATER PRODUCTION ONLY
2. KEY SWITCH 6. COIL
3. NEUTRAL START SWITCH 7. DISTRIBUTOR
4. BALLAST RESISTOR RELAY * 8. TO PARKING BRAKE SWITCH **
FIGURE 2. THE IGNITION CIRCUIT

Charging System needed to charge the battery. Alternator output is di-

(See FIGURE 3. and FIGURE 4.) rectly changed by engine speed and rotor current.

The charging system includes the key switch, battery,
alternator and regulator. The key switch connects bat-
tery voltage to the regulator. The regulator controls the
alternator to charge the battery. Battery voltage de-
creases as the starting circuit and other circuits take en-
ergy from the battery. The regulator senses this decrease
in battery voltage and increases the alternator output to
charge the battery. The alternator is either on or off. The
alternator generates maximum current when it is on and
no current when it is off. The regulator switches the al-
ternator between on and off to get the average current
2
The alternator has three main parts that include the sta-
tor, the rotor and the diode assembly. Later model lift
trucks have alternators with integral voltage regulators.
Mechanical power from the engine turns the rotor inside
the stator windings. The regulator controls the flow of
battery current to the rotor brushes, slip rings and rotor
windings. A magnetic field that rotates is the result of
this current flow in the stator windings. The alternating
current (AC) generated by the alternator is changed to
direct current (DC) by the diodes to become the alterna-
tor output. The output from the alternator connects to the
positive terminal of the battery to charge the battery.
 9596
Earlier production with
separate regulator

1. ALTERNATOR 5. BATTERY
2. CONNECTOR 6. INDICATOR
3. OTHER BATTERY CIRCUITS 7. REGULATOR
4. KEY SWITCH
FIGURE 3. THE CHARGING CIRCUIT, EARLIER PRODUCTION

Later production with 9596

integral regulator

1. ALTERNATOR 4. BRUSHES 7. TO BATTERY

2. STATOR 5. RECTIFIER BRIDGE 8. TO KEY SWITCH
3. ROTOR 6. REGULATOR SECTION 9. TO BATTERY DISCHARGE INDICATOR

FIGURE 4. THE CHARGING CIRCUIT, LATER PRODUCTION

3
 REPAIR

NOTE: Use the TROUBLESHOOTING and CHECKS
AND ADJUSTMENTS sections of this SRM before
starting any repair procedures. Make sure that repair or
replacement of that part is necessary before removal,
disassembly or replacement of the part.
10. Use a small pipe or tube to slide the retainer off the
snap ring. See FIGURE 5. Remove the snap ring and re-
tainer from the armature shaft. Remove the clutch as-
sembly from the armature shaft.

STARTER

Removal And Disassembly

(See FIGURE 5. and FIGURE 6.)

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace

the part that is damaged.
1
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery. 1 4 2
3
2. Remove the plate that fastens to the engine between 4 3
the fuel pump and starter.

3. Put labels on the electrical leads to the starter for cor-

rect connection during installation. Remove all electri-
cal leads fastened to the starter.
9565
1. PIPE OR TUBE
4. Support the starter so it will not fall. Remove the two
2. SNAP RING
capscrews that fasten the starter to the flywheel housing 3. ARMATURE SHAFT
and remove the starter. 4. RETAINER

5. Put the starter on a work bench. Remove the nut, lock
washer, washer and strap from the motor terminal on the
solenoid.
6. Remove the three screws that fasten the solenoid to
the drive housing and remove the solenoid. Remove the
spring and washers.
FIGURE 5. REMOVE THE RETAINER
Assembly And Installation
1. Install the clutch assembly on the armature shaft. See
FIGURE 6. Install the retainer and snap ring to hold the
clutch assembly on the armature shaft.

7. Remove the two long bolts and the two screws that
fasten the end cover of the motor. Remove the cover. Re-
move the washers from the armature shaft.
8. Lift the brush springs and remove the brushes from
the brush holders. Remove the brush holder assembly
from the field housing. Move the field housing from the
armature and drive housing.
9. Remove the springs seat, springs and washer for the
lever. Remove the armature, clutch assembly, solenoid
plunger and lever. Remove the lever from the clutch as-
sembly.
4
2. Install the lever on the clutch assembly. Install the so-
lenoid plunger on the lever. Install the armature, clutch
assembly, solenoid plunger and lever in the drive hous-
ing. Install the washer springs and spring seat for the
lever in the drive housing.
3. Install the field housing over the armature. Carefully
install the brush holder assembly in the field housing.
Make sure that the assembly is in the correct position.
Make sure that the brush leads are free.
4. Lift the brush springs and install all of the brushes. In-
stall the washers on the armature shaft. See FIGURE 6.
 9579

2. STARTER MOTOR 3. SPRING SEAT

A. BRUSHES 4. SPRINGS
B. BRUSH SPRING 5. LEVER
C. FIELD HOUSING 6. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
D. BRUSH HOLDER 7. RETAINER
E. BRUSH ASSEMBLY 8. SNAP RING
F. BUSHING 9. WASHER
1. SOLENOID ASSEMBLY G. END COVER 10. DRIVE HOUSING
A. PLUNGER H. THRUST WASHER 11. BUSHING
B. WASHERS I. INSULATION WASHER
C. SPRING J. WASHER
D. SOLENOID K. ARMATURE
FIGURE 6. PARTS OF THE STARTER

5. Install the end cover, the two long bolts and the two 7. Install the starter on the flywheel housing using the
screws that fasten the end cover. two capscrews.

8. Install all the electrical leads to the correct solenoid

6. Install the solenoid washers, spring and solenoid on
the drive housing using the three screws. Connect the
strap from the motor to the motor terminal of the sole-
noid. Install the washer, lock washer and nut on the mo-
tor terminal. Tighten the nut.
terminals as marked on the labels. Install the plate that
fastens to the engine between the fuel pump and starter.
9. Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of
the battery.

5
BALLAST RESISTOR RELAY lay terminal 1. See FIGURE 7. After all the wires are in-
(Earlier Production) (See FIGURE 7.) stalled, install the replacement relay using the capscrew,
washers and nut. Make sure to install the black wire
from the relay on the capscrew.

DISTRIBUTOR
(Earlier Production With Contact Points)

Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 8.)

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that is damaged.

1. Release the clips that fasten the distributor cap to the

distributor. Remove the cap. If the cap will be replaced,
remove the wires from the cap.

2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum control.

Remove the coil wire from the distributor. Remove the
nut and washers that fasten the clamp to the shaft hous-
ing. Remove the distributor housing. Remove the clamp
and capacitor from the distributor housing.

3. Remove the rotor and point set screws. Release the

9580 lead for the point set and remove the point set. Remove
the snap ring that fastens the arm of the vacuum control.
H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) Remove the two vacuum control screws and the vacuum
EARLIER PRODUCTION ONLY
control.
1. BATTERY CLAMP
2. BATTERY BRACKET 4. Remove the nuts, washers, insulator and screw for
3. BATTERY electrical connection to the point set. Remove the two
4. COIL screws that fasten the plate to the housing and remove
5. CAPSCREWS, NUT, WASHERS
6. RELAY the plate. Remove the large snap ring and washers from
7. BALLAST RESISTOR the bottom of the top shaft. Remove the shaft from the
8. LINK distributor housing. Remove the oil seal.
9. REGULATOR CONNECTOR
10. REGULATOR 5. Remove the screw and washer that fasten the cam to
11. RIVET the top shaft. Remove the cam and spring. Remove the
12. WHITE WIRE TO BALLAST RESISTOR
13. BLACK WIRE TO CAPSCREW snap rings and springs that fasten the weights to the top
14. RED WIRE TO COIL shaft. Remove the weights.
15. RED WIRE TO NEUTRAL START
SWITCH 6. Remove the two capscrews and lock washers that fas-
ten the shaft housing to the engine. Remove the shaft
FIGURE 7. REPLACE THE RELAY housing.

7. Use a strap wrench to hold the gear without damage.

The relay for an electrical by–pass of the ballast resistor
during starting, cannot be repaired. The bracket for the
relay is fastened to the battery bracket using the same
capscrews that fastens the coil. Remove the capscrews,
nut and washer that fasten the relay. Remove each wire
from the old relay and install it on the replacement relay.
Make sure the red wire from the coil is connected to re-
6
Remove the nut, special washer, gear and thrust washer
from bottom shaft. Do not let the key fall as the gear is
removed. Remove the bottom shaft from the shaft hous-
ing.
8. Remove the O–rings, gasket and clamp from the shaft
housing.
Earlier Production with Contact Points

9576

16. VACUUM CONTROL

17. WASHERS
18. INSULATORS
19. ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
20. BOTTOM SHAFT
1. CAP 8. SNAP RINGS 21. KEY
2. ROTOR 9. WEIGHTS 22. O–RING
3. GROUND LEAD 10. WEIGHT SPRINGS 23. CLAMP
4. POINT SET 11. TOP SHAFT 24. SHAFT HOUSING
5. PLATE 12. CAPACITOR 25. GASKET
6. CAM 13. OIL SEAL 26. THRUST WASHER
7. SPRING 14. CLIP 27. GEAR
15. DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING 28. SPECIAL WASHER
29. NUT

FIGURE 8. PARTS OF THE DISTRIBUTOR

7
Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 8.)
CAUTION
Make sure the oil grooves in both shafts are clean and
smooth. Make sure the bores for the shafts are clean.
1. Put engine oil on the bottom shaft. Install the bottom
shaft in the shaft housing. Install the thrust washer, key,
gear, special washer and nut. Use a strap wrench to hold
the gear without damage and tighten nut.
2. Make sure the weights can move easily on the pins. If
necessary, use emery cloth to polish the pins and the
holes in the weights. Remove all dust and put a very thin
layer of grease on each pin. Install the weights and
springs using the snap rings.
3. Install the spring and cam on the top shaft using the
screw and washers. Put engine oil on the top shaft and
carefully install the oil seal. Install the top shaft in the
distributor housing and install the washers and snap ring
on the shaft.
4. Install the plate in the distributor housing. Make sure
to install the ground lead. Install the vacuum control and
connect the arm to the pin using the snap ring. Install the
clamp on the distributor housing. Do not tighten the
capscrew and nut.
5. Install the point set on the plate using the screws and
washers. Make sure to install the ground lead. Install the
special screw for the electrical connection. Make sure
the insulators are correctly installed. The special screw
must not touch the distributor housing. Install the ca-
pacitor, capacitor lead and point set lead. Install the ro-
tor.
6. Put engine oil on a new O–ring for the distributor
housing. Install the distributor housing in the shaft hous-
ing using the O–ring. Make sure the top shaft aligns with
the slot in the bottom shaft. Install the nut and washers to
fasten the clamp to the shaft housing.
7. Put engine oil on a new O–ring for the shaft housing.
Install the gasket on the shaft housing. Install the dis-
tributor on the engine as described in THE MAZDA
ENGINE M4–121G (600 SRM 66). The distributor ro-
tor MUST be correctly aligned with the engine cam-
shaft. Tighten the capscrews that fasten the shaft hous-
ing to the engine.
8
8. Connect the coil wire to the distributor. Connect the
vacuum line to the vacuum control. Adjust the points
and engine timing as described in this section.
COIL REPLACEMENT (See FIGURE 7.)
1. Put labels on the wires connected to the coil for cor-
rect connection later.
2. Remove the two capscrews, nuts and washers that fas-
ten the coil and relay* to the battery bracket.
NOTE: The coil and ballast resistor* are replaced as a
single unit.
3. Remove the wires fastened to the ballast resistor* and
connect them to the same terminal on the replacement.
4. Install the coil and relay* using the capscrews, nuts
and washers. Make sure to install the black wire from
the relay* on the capscrew.
5. Connect all wires to the coil as marked on the labels.
* Parts used on earlier production only.
DISTRIBUTOR (Later Production with
Electronic Ignition System)
Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 9.)
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that is damaged.
1. Loosen the two screws that fasten the distributor cap
to the distributor. Remove the cap. If the cap will be re-
placed, remove the wires from the cap.
2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum control.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor.
3. Remove the nut and washers that fasten the flange of
the distributor housing to the engine block. Remove the
distributor housing from the engine.
4. Remove the rotor, seal ring and cover.
5. Remove the two screws that fasten the electronic
module and sensing coil assembly to the heat sink. Dis-
connect and remove the electronic module from the
sensing coil assembly. Disconnect the two electrical
leads for the electronic module. Remove the wire and
grommet assembly from the slot in the side of the dis-
tributor housing.
 Later Production 1. CAP 10. ELECTRICAL LEADS
with Electronic Ignition System 2. ROTOR ASSEMBLY 11. ELECTRONIC MODULE
3. PACKING 12. HEAT SINK
4. COVER 13. TOP SHAFT
5. ROTOR, SENSING COIL 14. SPRINGS (2)
6. SENSING COIL (PICK–UP) 15. WEIGHTS (2)
7. SNAP RING 16. BOTTOM SHAFT
8. BREAKER ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY
9. ROLL PIN 17. HOUSING
18. VACUUM CONTROL
19. DRIVE TAB

FIGURE 9. PARTS OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, HEI

6. Remove the snap ring that fastens the arm of the vac-
uum control. Remove the two screws that fasten the vac-
uum control to the distributor housing. Remove the vac-
uum control from the housing.
7. Remove the two screws on the outside of the housing
that fasten the heat sink. The heat sink is the base for the
electronic module and sensing coil assembly.
8. Remove the two screws that fasten the breaker assem-
bly to the inside of the distributor housing.
9. Put the drive tab (located on the end of the lower shaft)
into a vise with soft jaws. Remove the screw from the
bore in the end of the top shaft. Remove the shaft from
the vise.
10. Hold the distributor housing upside down and care-
fully tap the outer edges on a soft wooden block. Tap the
housing until the breaker assembly comes loose from
the housing. Remove the breaker assembly and top shaft
from the housing.
11. If the sensing coil must be replaced, remove the roll
pin that locks the rotor to the top of the shaft. Remove
the rotor and sensing coil assembly.
12. If the weights must be replaced, remove the two
springs and the snap rings from the two pin mounts. Pull
the weights from the shaft bracket.
13. To remove the bottom shaft assembly, first remove
the roll pin and drive tab from the bottom of the shaft.

9
Remove the two screws that fasten the shaft bracket in-
side the base of the distributor housing.
Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 9.)
CAUTION
Make sure both shafts are clean and smooth. Make
sure the bores for the shafts are clean.
1. Put engine oil on the bottom shaft. Install the bottom
shaft in the shaft housing and fasten with the two screws
in side the base of the distributor housing. Install the
drive tab and roll pin on the bottom of the shaft end.
2. Install the weights and springs using the snap rings.
Make sure the weights can move easily on the pins. If
necessary, use emery cloth to polish the pins and the
holes in the weights. Remove all dust and put a very thin
layer of grease on each pin.
3. Install the breaker assembly on the top shaft.
4. Put the sensing coil assembly on the top shaft with the
coil windings toward the breaker assembly. Install the
sensing coil rotor correctly on the shaft and fasten it with
the roll pin.
5. Install the top shaft assembly onto the bottom shaft.
Install this assembly into the distributor housing. Make
sure the bearing on the breaker assembly is completely
installed in the bore of the housing. Install the two
screws and fasten the breaker assembly to the inside of
the distributor housing.
6. Connect the electrical leads to the electronic module.
Make sure the leads and the grommet are in the correct
position is the slot on the side of the distributor. Install
the cover, packing and rotor.
7. Install the distributor on the engine as described in
THE MAZDA ENGINE M4–121G (600 SRM 66).
10
The distributor rotor MUST be correctly aligned with
the engine camshaft. Tighten the capscrews that fasten
the housing to the engine.
8. Connect the coil wire to the distributor. Connect the
vacuum line to the vacuum control.
ALTERNATOR (All Models)
Removal And Disassembly
(See FIGURE 10. and FIGURE 11.)
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery.
2. Put a label on the wire connected to the B terminal. Put
a label on the wire connected to the ground terminal. Re-
move the wires from the terminals and disconnect the
connector plug from the alternator.
3. Remove the capsrews, washers and nut that fasten the
alternator to the engine. Remove the alternator.
4. Remove the three bolts that fasten the end housing to-
gether.
5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, fan, collar
and end housing from the rotor.
6. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-
tainer to the end housing. Remove the bearing retainer
and ball bearing.
7. Remove the nuts that fasten the stator and diode as-
sembly to the end housing. Remove the stator and diode
assembly from the end housing.
8. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes and
connector. Use pliers as a heat sink to keep heat from the
diodes. Use a soldering iron to remove the stator leads
from the diode assembly.
 1. NUT
2. LOCKWASHER
3. FAN
4. COLLAR
5. BOLT
6. END HOUSING
7. BALL BEARINGS
8. BEARING RETAINER
9. ROTOR
10. STATOR
11. BRUSH
12. BRUSH HOLDER AND
CONNECTOR
13. POSITIVE DIODE ASSEMBLY EARLIER PRODUCTION
14. NEGATIVE DIODE ASSEMBLY
15. DIODE ASSEMBLY

FIGURE 10. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR

Assembly And Installation 5. If the ball bearing next to the slip rings was removed,
(See FIGURE 10. and FIGURE 11.) install it on the armature shaft.

1. Hold the diode assembly (later models have a rectifier
bridge) in a position to connect the stator leads. Align
the brushes and connector at the mark on the stator. Use
pliers to keep heat from the diodes. Use a soldering iron
to connect the stator leads to the diode assembly.
2. Install the ball bearing and bearing retainer on the end
housing. Use the three screws.
3. Put the rotor, with threaded end of the shaft up, in a
vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten the vise to cause
rotor distortion. Install the collar, fan, pulley, lock wash-
er and nut on the shaft. Tighten the nut using a socket
wrench.
4. Install the stator and diode assembly on the rotor and
end housing. Hold the brushes away from the slip rings
during installation. Use a pin or wire in the hole of the
brush holder.
6. Install the end housing over the diode assembly. Make
sure all the insulators for the screws are correctly in-
stalled. The positive half of the diode assembly must not
touch the end housing. The screws must not touch the
end housing and the positive half of the diode assembly.
Install the nuts and bolts that fasten the end housings.
7. Install the alternator on the engine using the
capscrews, washers and nut. Make sure to install the belt
on the pulley. Adjust the belt tension as described in the
section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE, 8000 SRM
259.
8. Connect the plug to the alternator connector. Connect
the other wires to the B and ground terminals as marked
on the labels. Connect the negative cable on the battery
terminal.

11
 LATER MODELS

11. TERMINALS
1. NUT 6. BALL BEARING 12. REGULATOR
2. PULLEY/FAN 7. BEARING RETAINER 13. BRUSH
3. COLLAR 8. ROTOR 14. SPRING
4. BOLT 9. BALL BEARING 15. RECTIFIER
5. HOUSING, FRONT 10. STATOR 16. HOUSING, REAR

FIGURE 11. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR with INTEGRAL REGULATOR

REGULATOR REPLACEMENT capscrews and nuts that fasten the coil, relay and ballast
(Earlier Production) (See FIGURE 7.) resistor.

1. Disconnect both battery cables. Remove the battery
clamp bracket and links. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the bat-
tery bracket to the hydraulic tank. Disconnect the wiring
connector at the regulator.
3. Put the battery bracket in a position to use a drill to
remove the regulator rivets. The rivets must be over the
edge of the tank to prevent drilling the tank. Use the drill
to remove the rivets and remove the regulator.
NOTE: The battery bracket can be completely removed
from the lift truck. If necessary, remove the two
12
4. Make sure the replacement regulator is in the correct
position. See FIGURE 7. Install the replacement regu-
lator on the battery bracket using rivets. Connect the
wiring connector for the replacement regulator.
5. If the coil, relay and ballast resistor were removed, in-
stall them. Make sure to install the black wire from the
relay on the capscrew. Install the battery bracket on the
hydraulic tank using the nuts and washers.
6. Install the battery, the clamp bracket and the links.
Tighten the nuts to hold the battery Clean the battery ter-
minals and the cable connectors. Install the battery ca-
bles on the battery terminals.
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

GENERAL
CAUTION
Make sure the cables to the starter and ammeter are
There are no adjustments for the starter, ballast resistor, gauge 4 (25 mm
) minimum.
relay, coil, alternator, or regulator. The distributor point
set, distributor timing and spark plug clearance must be 1. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot move.
adjusted. 2. Use a 12V battery that has a full charge. Use an amme-
ter that has a minimum capacity of 60 amperes. Connect
Clean the terminals on the battery. Inspect the insulation
the circuit shown in FIGURE 12. Attach the jumper
on the wires. Make sure all the fasteners and connec-
wire (7) to the S terminal, but do not connect the nega-
tions are clean and tight.
tive lead (2) of the battery to the starter yet.
WARNING
Put the transmission in the NEUTRAL position. Ap-
ply the parking brake.

CAUTION
Do not change the polarity of the circuits. Do not con-
nect any wires in the circuits, except as shown in
these instructions. Never connect the wire from the
terminal marked “BAT” to an open circuit.

Make sure the alternator and the battery have the same
polarity for the electrical ground. When connecting a
charger or another battery, connect the negative termi- 9568
nals to the negative terminals. Then connect the positive
terminals to the positive terminals. Problems in the
charging circuit are indicated by one or more of the fol- 1. STARTER SOLENOID
lowing: 2. NEGATIVE LEAD
(DO NOT CONNECT)
3. 12V BATTERY
a. The starter motor turns slower than the specifica- 4. AMMETER
tion. 5. STARTER
6. POSITIVE LEAD
b. The specific gravity of the electrolyte in the bat- 7. JUMPER WIRE
tery is below specification. FIGURE 12. CHECK THE STARTER

c. The battery requires more than one ounce of wa-
ter per cell per month.
STARTER
Check Operation (See FIGURE 12.)
The starter is in good condition if the results of this
check are within the specifications. If the results are
within specifications, additional checks or starter repair
is not necessary.
3. Touch the negative lead to the starter housing for only
a short time and check the indications on the meters.
Now, remove the negative lead from the starter housing.
Remove the small jumper wire from the S terminal.
4. The starter is in good condition if all of the following
items are correct:
a. Clutch assembly moves so that it can engage the
flywheel.
b. Smooth rotation occurs just after clutch move-
ment.

13
 c. Ammeter must indicate 53 ampere or less.
d. Clutch assembly moves so that it can disengage
the flywheel after jumper wire is removed from S
terminal.
Check Brush Length (See FIGURE 13.)
To check the length of the brushes, disassemble the mo-
tor. Measure from end–to–end of each brush. The mini-
mum length is 7.5 mm (0.3 in).
9567
7.5 mm (0.3 in)
MINIMUM
FIGURE 13. CHECK THE BRUSH LENGTH
Check Brush Holder (See FIGURE 13.)
Remove the brush holder from the motor housing. Re-
move the brushes from the brush holder. Connect an
ohmmeter between each bracket that holds each brush
and the mount plate for the brackets. The indications for
the two positive brackets must be infinity. The indica-
tions for the two other brackets must be zero ohms.
Armature (See FIGURE 14.)
Remove the armature. Use an ohmmeter to check for an
infinity indication between any commutator bar and the
armature shaft. Check for continuity (zero ohms) be-
tween any two commutator bars. If either check shows
no continuity, replace the armature.
14
4 9566
3 2
1
1. ARMATURE 3. COMMUTATOR BARS
2. OHMMETER 4. SHAFT
FIGURE 14. CHECK THE ARMATURE
Field Windings
Remove the motor, brush holder and armature. Use
ohmmeter to check for continuity between positive
brush and electrical lead of the motor. Check for a indi-
cation of infinity between a positive brush and the motor
housing. If the indication is not infinity, check that the
brush lead connections are not touching the housing. If
either check shows a wrong condition, replace the com-
plete motor housing.
Clutch And Bearing
Check the teeth of the gear. If the teeth are worn or dam-
aged, replace the clutch assembly. Check the teeth of the
ring gear on the flywheel. If the teeth are worn or dam-
aged, replace the ring gear. Check that the clutch bearing
rotates freely and smoothly. The bearing must not be
loose.
BALLAST RESISTOR RELAY
(Earlier Production)
To check the relay after all wires are removed, use an
ohmmeter. Check for continuity between relay termi-
nals 2 and 4. Check that there is continuity between ter-
minals 1 and 3.
The relay can be checked for normal operation without
disconnecting the wires at the relay terminals.
1. Remove the capscrews, nut and washers that fasten
the relay. See FIGURE 7.
2. Remove the two wires from the positive terminal of
the coil. Make sure these wires do not touch any other
parts.
3. Make sure the transmission is in neutral.
4. Check for battery voltage at relay terminals 1, 2 and 3
WARNING
when the key switch is in the START position.
Make sure the timing light, and your hands and arms
5. Set the key switch to the ON position. check for bat- stay clear of the fan blade area. The rotating blades
tery voltage at relay terminal 3 and NO battery voltage at of the fan can cause damage or injury.
terminals 1, 2 and 4.

6. If any of the indications of steps 4 and 5 are wrong, the

relay is damaged

7. Set the key switch to the OFF position. Connect the

coil wires and install the capscrew, nut and washers to
fasten the relay. Make sure to install the black wire from
the relay on the capscrew.

DISTRIBUTOR (See FIGURE 15.)

9569

Distributor Contact Clearance 1. TDC

2. INDICATOR
MAZDA engines in lift trucks with serial codes B/C177 3. 13° BTDC 0.40 to 50 mm
4. CRANKSHAFT (0.016 to 0.020 in)
and B187 have electronic ignition and do not have con-
PULLEY CONTACT POINT
tact points.
DISTRIBUTOR
A177 [H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL)] &
A187 [S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL)]:
0.4 to 0.5 mm (0.016 to 0.020 in)

Check the point set for burning or transfer of metal from

one contact to the other contact. If the point set is in bad
condition, replace the set as described in REPAIRS of
this section.

Check the clearance of the contacts of the point set. See

FIGURE 15. The engine cam shaft must be rotated so
that the distributor cam opens the contacts for the maxi- 9569
mum clearance. Check that the clearance is 0.40 to 0.50 1. TDC
2. INDICATOR
mm (0.016 to 0.020 in). Use a spacer gauge to check the
3. 9° BTDC
clearance. The gauge that is the same thickness as the 4. 13° BTDC
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
clearance will not move or separate the contacts. The 5. 18° BTDC
SYSTEM
gauge will feel like the contacts are magnetic as it is
pulled from between the contacts. If the clearance is FIGURE 15. CHECK THE DISTRIBUTOR
wrong, adjust the point set as described in Adjustments
of this section. When checking the timing disconnect the vacuum ad-
vance line that is between the carburetor and the dis-
Check for a dwell of 55 to 61°. Connect the positive lead
tributor.
of a dwell meter to the negative terminal of the coil. The
negative terminal connects to the distributor point set. Check that the distributor timing is the correct degree
Connect the other lead of the dwell meter to the engine mark indicated in FIGURE 15. before BTDC. Connect
or a good ground. Operate the engine at idle speed (625 a timing light to the number one spark plug wire. Oper-
rpm). If the dwell is wrong, adjust the point set as de- ate the engine at idle speed (625 rpm). The correct de-
scribed in Adjustments of this section. gree mark on the pulley must be aligned with the indica-

15
tor on the engine. If the mark is not aligned, adjust the
timing as described in Adjustments of this section.
Timing for contact point distributor (early units):
A177 [H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL)] and
A187 [S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL)]:
13° BTDC @ 625 RPM
Timing for H.E.I. distributor (later units):
B/C177 [H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL)] and
B187 [S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL)]:
There are four timing marks on the pulley for
Mazda engines. The timing marks are at the fol-
lowing BTDC positions: 0°, 9°, 13°, and 18°.
The Mazda engines used for gasoline and LPG
operation have an electronic ignition system:
MAZDA (gasoline) = 9° BTDC @ 625 RPM
MAZDA (LPG) = 18° BTDC @ 625 RPM
SPARK PLUGS
Remove each spark plug wire by twisting and carefully
pulling the boot off the spark plug. Use a spark plug
socket to remove each spark plug. Check the spark plugs
for burned electrodes and oil or other deposits. Clean or
replace the spark plugs. Adjust each spark plug gap to
the correct clearance.
Spark Plug Clearance
0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 in).
COIL AND BALLAST RESISTOR
(Earlier Production)(See FIGURE 2.)
CAUTION
Disconnect all wire leads from the coil and ballast re-
sistor before making checks.
Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the
coil primary positive and negative terminals. Check for
continuity between the positive terminal and the center
or high voltage socket. There must be continuity for
both checks or the coil is damaged Check for continuity
between the terminals of the ballast resistor. If there is
no continuity, the ballast resistor is damaged.
16
ALTERNATOR
Some alternators, on the later models, have integral reg-
ulators.
Always check the general condition of the complete
charging system before doing a complete check on each
part. Check the general condition of the following parts:
(1) battery, (2) battery cables and connections and (3) al-
ternator and regulator wires and connectors. Also check
the condition and tension of the drive belt for the alterna-
tor.
NOTE: These alternator checks are done when the al-
ternator is removed from the engine. Do not disassem-
ble the alternator for the first two check procedures.
CAUTION
NEVER operate the engine if the alternator output
“B” terminal is not connected to the battery.
Do not short–circuit or connect jumper wires to any
of the alternator terminals unless instructed to by
this section of the manual.
Make sure polarity is correct before connecting a
battery charger or another battery.
The two problems of the charging circuit are low output
and high output. Low output causes a low battery and
difficult starting. A high output causes heating of the
battery and evaporation of water from the electrolyte.
The following two checks will determine if the alterna-
tor, regulator or wiring has the charging fault. The two
checks will also determine if the charging system has a
correct output. Do the following two checks before re-
moval, disassembly or replacement of alternator or
regulator.
Check For Low Output
(Alternator With Separate Regulator)
(See FIGURE 16.)
CAUTION
Make sure tips on meter leads touch only the points
or terminals to be checked. Accidental electrical con-
tact can damage the alternator or regulator.
Make sure the tips are small enough to touch the ter-
minals in the connectors. The tip must touch the ter-
minal. It must not touch just the wire insulation. The
tip must not damage the connector, terminal or wire.
 2. If one or more checks of Step 1 have no indication on
the voltmeter, check for an open circuit between each
terminal and the battery. If there are indications on the
voltmeter for all three checks of Step 1, turn the key
switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the cable from
the negative terminal of the battery.
3. Disconnect the wire from the battery terminal of the
alternator. This wire also connects to the battery termi-
nal of the starter. Connect an ammeter as shown in
FIGURE 16. The ammeter must have a capacity of 50
amperes. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal of
the battery.
4. Get a special resistor made for connecting to the bat-
tery to check charging systems. This resistor is made of
carbon for high currents. Adjust the resistor for maxi-
mum resistance and connect it to the battery terminals.
See FIGURE 16.

WARNING
During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-
leys, fans or belts in the engine area. Contact with
these parts can cause an injury.
5. Start the engine and operate it at the speed set by the
governor. Adjust the resistor for a maximum indication
on the ammeter.

1. ALTERNATOR 9. WHITE WIRE WITH S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL): 2700 to 2800 rpm

2. BATTERY TERMINAL RED STRIPE
3. AMMETER 10. JUMPER WIRE H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL): 2800 to 3000 rpm.
4. RED WIRE TO 11. REGULATOR
BATTERY TERMINAL 12. BROWN WIRE 6. Check for an ammeter indication within the values
5. BATTERY 13. ALTERNATOR WIRE shown below:
6. SPECIAL RESISTOR CONNECTOR
7. TO REGULATOR 14. GREEN WIRE a. S/H2.00–3.00XL (S/H40–60XL)
8. REGULATOR BLACK 15. ORANGE WIRE Cold Alternator, 36 – 44 Amps
WIRE 16. BLACK WIRE
Hot Alternator, 31.5 – 38.5 Amps

FIGURE 16. CHECK THE OUTPUT b. S/H1.25–1.75XL (S/H25–35XL)

OF THE ALTERNATOR
1. Turn the key switch to the ON position. The battery
discharge indicator must be illuminated. Check for bat-
tery positive between the following points and the en-
gine:
a. Battery terminal of the alternator
Cold Alternator, 35 Amps
Hot Alternator, 40 Amps
Stop the engine. If the indication is within specifica-
tions, the charging system does NOT have a low output.
Do not do the other steps of this procedure.
7. If the indication is not within specifications, discon-
nect the regulator from the alternator. Separate the wire
connectors at the regulator connector.

b. “IG” terminal of the regulator connector 8. A jumper wire must be connected between the alter-
nator F and B terminals. Make the connections at the al-
c. “A” terminal of the regulator connector ternator B terminal and the F terminal of the engine wir-

17
ing harness. See FIGURE 16. Make sure the jumper 3. If there are no indications on the voltmeter during
wire is connected to the F terminal and only the F termi- steps 1 and 2, check for an open circuit between each ter-
nal. minal and the battery.

CAUTION 4. If there are indications on the voltmeter during steps 1

Do NOT connect the jumper wire to the B terminal
yet. Do NOT disconnect the ammeter from the alter-
nator B terminal or red wire.
9. Temporarily disconnect the resistor from the battery.
Start the engine and operate it at idle speed. Reconnect
the resistor to the battery terminals.
and 2, disconnect the cable for the electrical ground on
the battery.
5. Connect an ammeter into the circuit at the battery ter-
minal B. See FIGURE 17.
6. Connect the cable for the electrical ground on the bat-
tery.

10. Carefully touch and hold the jumper wire on the al-
ALTERNATOR WITH
ternator B terminal. Check the ammeter for an alternator INTERNAL REGULATOR
output and that the current increases as the engine speed
SLOWLY increases. Remove the jumper wire from the
B terminal and stop the engine.

11. If there was no output in step 6 and there was an out-

put in Step 10, check the following parts: (1) the wiring
and wiring connectors between the alternator and (2) the
regulator.

12. If there was no output at step 6 or step 10, check the

alternator plug and the alternator.

13. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of

the battery. Remove the resistor from the battery termi-
nals. Disconnect and remove the ammeter. After repairs
are complete, connect all wires and connectors. Recon- 5139
nect the cable to the negative terminals of the battery.

Check For Low Output

(Alternator With Integral Regulator) 1. RESISTOR (CARBON PILE)
(See FIGURE 17.) 2. BATTERY
3. VOLTMETER
WARNING 4. STARTER
5. ALTERNATOR
Do not connect the wire from the “BAT” terminal to 6. BATTERY TERMINAL (B)
the electrical ground. A short–circuit will occur and 7. FIELD TERMINAL (L)
make sparks, which can cause injury. 8. REGULATOR TERMINAL (R)
9. AMMETER

NOTE: Make sure the wire from the voltmeter makes FIGURE 17. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
contact with each terminal on the alternator.

1. Connect a voltmeter between the battery terminal B
and the electrical ground. Turn the key switch to the ON
position and check the indication.
2. Connect a voltmeter to the Field terminal L and the
Regulator terminal R. Follow the procedure in step 1
and check the indication.
18
7. Connect a resistor (carbon pile) across the terminals
of the battery.
WARNING
During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-
leys, fans or belts in the engine area. Contact with
these parts can cause personal injury.
8. Start and run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm. Adjust
the resistor until the maximum charging rate is reached.
9. Read the maximum charging rate on the alternator
frame. Read the ammeter. The indication on the amme-
ter must be within 10% of the amount shown on the
frame.
10. If the amount shown is within 10%, the alternator is
in good condition. Check the starter or wires for the
problems.
Check For High Output
(Alternator With Separate Regulator)
Check For High Output
(Alternator With Integral Regulator)
(See FIGURE 17.)
1. Connect a voltmeter from the regulator terminal to the
electrical ground. Check the indication on the voltmeter.
2. If there are no indications, check for an open circuit
between the regulator terminal and the battery.
3. If there is an indication, connect a voltmeter between
the “BAT” terminal and the electrical ground.
4. Increase the engine speed until the maximum voltage
indication is reached.

CAUTION 5. If the voltage shown is more than 15.5 volts, disas-

Make sure tips on meter leads touch only the points semble the alternator and do the remainder of the
or terminals to be checked. Accidental electrical con- checks.
tact can damage the alternator or regulator. Rotor Resistance
Make sure the tips are small enough to touch the ter- (Alternator with Separate Regulator)
(See FIGURE 18.)
minals in the connectors. The tip must touch the ter-
minal. It must not touch just the wire insulation. The
tip must not damage the connector, terminal or wire.

1. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage at the al-

ternator B terminal Check for battery voltage at the A
terminal of the regulator connector. See FIGURE 16.
Do NOT disconnect the connector.

2. If battery voltage is not at both points, check wiring

and connectors between regulator, alternator and bat-
tery.

3. If voltage is at both points, connect the voltmeter be-

tween the battery terminals.

WARNING
During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-
leys, fans or belts in the engine area. Contact with 9570
these parts can cause personal injury.
FIGURE 18. RESISTANCE CHECKS
4. Start the engine and set speed for a maximum indica-
tion on voltmeter. Stop the engine. 1. Use an ohmmeter to check for 5 to 6 ohms between the
alternator F and E terminals.
5. If indication in step 4 is more than 14 to 15 volts, the
regulator is good. If the indication is less than 14 or 2. If the resistance is zero, the terminals, brushes or slip
greater than 15 volts, check all wires and connectors to rings have a short circuit. An indication of infinity
the regulator. shows that the rotor circuit is not complete.

6. If wiring and connectors are good, replace the regula- 3. A high resistance indication shows bad brush contact
tor. or dirty slip rings.

19
Diodes Circuit
(Alternator with Separate Regulator)
(See FIGURE 18.)

1. Use an ohmmeter to check the positive and negative

diode sets. Connect the ohmmeter between the alterna-
tor N and B terminals. Make opposite connections to the
same two terminals. The meter must indicate continuity
for only one of the two checks.

2. Use the same method to check the negative diodes.

Make the meter connections between alternator termi- POSITIVE DIODE ASSEMBLY
nals N and E.

3. If the meter indicates continuity for both checks of

Step 1, the positive diode set is damaged. If the meter in-
dicates continuity for both checks of step 2, the negative
diode set is damaged. Replace the diode assembly.

4. If there is no continuity indication for step 1 or for step

2, check connections in the alternator.

NOTE: These checks do not indicate a diode in the set

9573
that will not let current flow in either direction. NEGATIVE DIODE ASSEMBLY
FIGURE 19. DIODE ASSEMBLY
Diode Assembly
(Alternator With Separate Regulator)
(See FIGURE 19.) 4. Connect an ohmmeter lead to the negative diode as-
sembly. Check for continuity at each of the three diode
NOTE: Stator leads must not be connected to diode as- leads. See FIGURE 19. Reverse the meter leads and re-
sembly for this check. peat the check.

5. There must be continuity at all three points for only

1. Connect an ohmmeter lead to the positive diode as-
sembly. Check for continuity at each of the three diode
leads. See FIGURE 19. Reverse the meter leads and re-
peat the check.
2. There must be continuity at all three points for only
one of the two checks. There must also be no continuity
at all three points for the opposite check.
3. If any of the three points show continuity for both
checks, replace the diode assembly. If any of the three
points show no continuity for both checks, replace the
diode assembly.
20
one of the two checks. There must also be no continuity
at all three points for the opposite check.
6. If any of the three points show continuity for both
checks, replace the diode assembly. If any of the three
points show no continuity for both checks, replace the
diode assembly.
Check The Diodes, Diode Trio
(Alternator with Integral Regulator)
(See FIGURE 20.)
Use an ohmmeter with a 1.5 volt cell. (Use the lowest
range scale.) Connect one meter lead to one connector,
and the other meter lead to one of the three connectors.
Make the test, then reverse the leads on the same con-
nectors. If both indications are the same, replace the
diodes. A good diode will show one high indication, and
show one low indication. Repeat this test by connecting
the wire between one connector and each of the other
two connectors.
1. OHMMETER
2. DIODE CONNECTIONS, TOP
3. DIODE CONNECTIONS, BOTTOM
COMMON TO THE “L” CONNECTOR
FIGURE 20. CHECK THE DIODES
Check The Rectifier Bridge
(Alternator with Integral Regulator)
(See FIGURE 21.)
Check the rectifier bridge (six diodes). Connect the
ohmmeter to the heat sink and one of the connectors.
Check the indications, then connect the wires in the re-
verse direction. If both indications are the same, replace
the rectifier. Repeat the test connecting the wires be-
tween the same heat sink and the two other connectors.
Repeat the test by connecting the wires between the oth-
er heat sink and the three other connectors.
1. HEAT SINK WITH INSULATOR
2. HEAT SINK TO GROUND
3. OHMMETER
FIGURE 21. CHECK THE RECTIFIER BRIDGE
Check Field Winding For The Rotor
(All Alternators) (See FIGURE 22.)
1. Connect an ohmmeter to each slip ring and check for
open circuits. If the indication is high (infinity), the
winding has an open circuit. To check the resistance of
the field, connect the ohmmeter to the two slip rings.
The correct indication is 4.0 to 4.5 ohms. If the indica-
tion is less than the specification, there is a short circuit
in the windings. If the indication is greater than specifi-
cation, there is additional resistance in the windings.
2. To check the electrical ground, connect the ohmmeter
between either slip ring and the electrical ground as
shown in FIGURE 22. Replace the rotor if the indica-
tion is less than infinity.
NOTE: Make sure the needle in the ohmmeter always
returns to zero correctly. The indications will change
when the temperature of the winding changes.
21
 1 1

5607

7015

1 2
3
2
1. OHMMETER – CHECK FOR
OPEN CIRCUIT
1. OHMMETER – CHECK FOR 2. OHMMETER – CHECK FOR
ELECTRICAL GROUND ELECTRICAL GROUNDS
2. OHMMETER – CHECK FOR OPEN
CIRCUITS OR SHORT–CIRCUITS FIGURE 23. CHECK THE STATOR
3. SLIP RINGS WINDINGS

FIGURE 22. CHECK THE ROTOR

Brushes And Bearings

1. Check each brush for a minimum brush length on the

shortest side of 7 mm (0.3 in).

2. Check the brush springs. Replace spring, if spring is

Check Windings In The Stator
broken or has rust or distortion. If brushes have changed
(All Alternators) (See FIGURE 23.)
color from heat or they are weak, replace them.

1. Disconnect the soldered terminals (3) of the stator
lead wires with a solder iron. Separate the stator and rec-
tifier.
2. To check the stator windings for electrical ground,
connect an ohmmeter as shown in FIGURE 23. There
must be no continuity between any of the stator termi-
nals and the metal frame.
3. To check the stator for open circuits, connect the ohm-
meter or test lamp between each pair of wires to the sta-
tor, as shown in FIGURE 23. If the test lamp does not
illuminate or the meter indication is high, the windings
have an open circuit.
22
3. Check brush holder for cracks or damage.
4. Check armature bearings for smooth operation. Bear-
ings must not be loose or have seal leaks.
Check The Voltage Regulator
(Alternator with Separate Regulator)
(See FIGURE 24.)
1. Disconnect regulator connector. Use an ohmmeter to
check for continuity between terminals of the regulator
connector.
2. Replace the regulator if there is no continuity between
the terminals in the table.
 gap between the center and ground electrodes is 0.7 to
0.8 mm (0.027 to 0.031 in).

NOTE: The distributor cam can be aligned manually on

some engines. Remove the spark plugs, hold the fan belt
tight on the fan pulley and turn the fan.

On distributors in earlier production lift trucks, adjust

the distributor point set. First remove the distributor cap
and rotor. Use a key switch to engage the starter to turn
the distributor cam. The distributor cam must be aligned
TERMINALS CORRECT INDICATION for maximum gap of the contacts of the point set. See
FIGURE 15. Loosen the two screws indicated by the ar-
A–E NO CONTINUITY
rows. Do not loosen the screws so that the stationary
F–E NO CONTINUITY contact will move easily. It must be loose enough to
IG – E NO CONTINUITY move and tight enough to stay in place during adjust-
ment. Put the blade of a screwdriver at the adjustment
L–E CONTINUITY
point to move the stationary contact. Adjust the clear-
N–E CONTINUITY ance for 0.4 to 0.5 mm (0.016 to 0.020 in) using a spacer
F – IG CONTINUITY gauge. Tighten the screws and check the clearance. The
dwell will be correct if the clearance is correct. Install
FIGURE 24. REGULATOR CONTINUITY the distributor rotor and cap.

Check The Voltage Regulator WARNING

(Alternator with Integral Regulator)
Use a voltage regulator test device. Do not use an ohm-
meter. If the voltage regulator is damaged, replace the
voltage regulator.
ADJUSTMENTS
There are no adjustments for the starter, ballast resistor,
relay, coil, alternator, or regulator. The distributor point
set, distributor timing and spark plug clearance must be
adjusted. If these adjustments are wrong, the engine will
not operate smoothly.
Adjust the spark plug clearance using a wire spacer
gauge. Use notch on the spacer gauge or small pliers to
carefully bend the ground electrode. Do NOT damage
the insulator around the center electrode. The correct
Make sure the timing light, and your hands and arms
stay clear of the fan blade area. The rotating blades
of the fan can cause damage or injury.
Make sure all the spark plugs are installed and that the
distributor point set is adjusted. Make sure the distribu-
tor rotor and cap are installed. Install the timing light at
the number one spark plug wire. Make sure the spark
plug wires are in the correct order at the distributor. The
firing order is 1–3–4–2. Loosen the clamp on the dis-
tributor. Operate the engine at idle speed (625 rev/min).
Carefully hold the timing light in a position to illuminate
the indicator. Move the distributor to align the 13 degree
mark and the indicator. See FIGURE 15. Tighten the
distributor clamp. Carefully remove the timing light,
stop the engine and disconnect the timing light.

23
 TROUBLESHOOTING

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE

Starter does not run or has low Loose wiring connections or broken wires.
speed.
Key switch is damaged.

Solenoid coil or switch contacts are damaged.

Weak brush springs in starter.

Brush leads are broken or have a short–circuit.

Commutator in starter is dirty or worn.

Armature winding in starter is damaged.

Field windings in starter are damaged.

Worn or damaged starter gears.

Bearings in starter are worn or damaged.

Starter operates, but engine crankshaft Wiring connections are broken, loose or have
does not rotate. corrosion.
Starter clutch assembly is damaged.

Solenoid is damaged and will not keep the clutch

assembly engaged.

Starter clutch assembly will not slide easily.

Gear teeth on starter clutch assembly are damaged.

Gear teeth on ring gear are damaged.

Starter continues to run. Contacts of solenoid are welded together.
Solenoid coil has a short–circuit.
Spring that disengages the starter clutch is broken.

Key switch is damaged.

Engine will not start – no spark or weak Distributor points are not adjusted correctly.*
spark.
Distributor points are damaged.*

Coil is damaged.
Key switch is damaged.

Ballast resistor relay is damaged.*

Distributor points are burned.* Oil or grease is on the contacts. *

Ballast resistor relay is damaged.*

Distributor capacitor is damaged. *

Distributor points are not adjusted correctly.*

*On earlier production only

24
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM
Starter will crank engine. Engine will not run.
Battery does not stay charged.
Battery is charged more than necessary.
*On earlier production, or diesel models only
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Ballast resistor is damaged.
Electronic module or sensing coil is damaged.
(Units with electronic ignition distributor)
Battery terminals have corrosion.
Battery has internal damage.
Regulator coil is damaged.
Fan belt is loose.
Wiring connections are broken, loose or have
corrosion.
Short–circuit between wiring connector(s).
Alternator brushes are worn.
Alternator brushes have weak springs.
Alternator has dirty slip rings.
Stator coil of alternator has a short–circuit.
Regulator contacts are welded together.
Regulator coil is damaged.
Wiring connections are broken, loose or have
corrosion.
Short–circuit between wiring connector(s).
Field coil in alternator is damaged.
Regulator coil is damaged.
Regulator contacts are welded together.*
25