FLOW OF MANUAL CARPENTRY WORK

Preparatory work
Prepare the layout of the project using 2 masking tapes on the floor, to indicate the
boundaries of the project
Examine the Areas directly above or below the walls, before cutting into the walls
This is to be done to determine the location of water lines, ductwork and gas pipes

WALL PANELLING
List of materials required
● MDF wood panelling
● A spirit level
● No Nails Glue (or a similar brand)
● Decorators caulk
● Saw or cutter
● A notebook and pen to jot down sizes
● Paint
● Sandpaper or an electric sander
● Hammer
● Pin
● Tape measure

STEP 1: Planning
Start by having a clear idea of what your panel walls will look like by sketching it
down in a notebook. That way, you'll stay on track and know how many panels you
need to complete your project.'

STEP 2: Measure your wall

1. When panelling a wall, you need to measure how many pieces of MDF wood
you need. Once you have worked out how much you need, it's time to
measure your walls.
2. Use your tape measure to work out the full width and height of the wall you
are deciding to panel.
3. Decide how many panels you want. Some prefer panelling only half the wall,
while others love the full panelled look.
4. Remember to account for top and base panels (the frame) as well as vertical
and horizontal panels.
 5. To ensure your panels are even and give you a neat finish, write down all your
measurements clearly and carefully, down to the last millimetre
6. The sizes and widths of panels are flexible and can come in various depths,
from 6mm to 25mm. However, the width will depend on the total length of the
wall that has been measured. So, this step will help you decide on how high
you want your panelling to go and the size, width, depth and material of the
panels.

STEP 3: Cut the panels

● Using a saw and mitre box at a 90-degree angle, carefully cut the panels that
will be horizontally placed according to the measurements
● Repeat this process for all of the vertical panels, then lightly sand the ends
until smooth.'

STEP 4: Sand and smooth the walls

● can use either sandpaper or an electric sander
● Prepare walls before attaching the panels by sanding and smoothing them
down. This removes any lumps or bumps which may otherwise show through

STEP 5: Attach the panels

● Start by adding the frame. First with the base panels, followed by the top
● Place the panel onto the marked wall and use a laser level to ensure the
panel is straight. Apply strong adhesive to the back and apply to the wall – be
sure to press down firmly and leave to dry.
● Continue to add the vertical panels first, followed by the horizontal panels.

STEP 6: Fill in the gaps

● Once applied the panels to the walls, go over them with decorators caulk to
patch up any unsightly gaps, cracks or holes.
● 'Don't panic if some of the panels are a couple of millimetres short, simply fill
them with Polyfilla before sanding to create smooth, seamless joins,
● Once filled, sand this down to complete the look.

STEP 7: Finishing touch

● Priming and painting the wall.
● While the primer is drying, think of the colour scheme you want to create.
● If you’re looking to create a moody atmosphere, go with a darker colour
palette that can transform your room into a cosy cocoon. Or choose a light
shade like a pastel to create a relaxing kitchen, bedroom or bathroom
scheme.
Wardrobe
● First, cut down the plywood sheets down to a manageable size,use a circular
saw.
● Once the sheets become manageable, take them over to the table saw.
The original design did not have the rabbet joints for the drawer, stating this
because the measurements for the width of the drawer lumber (front and
back) will be slightly longer than in this cut list. Build your frame and then your
drawer last.
● It’s always a good idea to use the scrap wood to test on before making cuts to
your final project. It’s easier to use the same table saw blade rather than
changing to a dado stack.
● After the drawers are cut to the final dimension, make a slot for the drawer
bottom.
● For the middle divider, cut a dado joint. It may be more work upfront but will
save time in the end with aligning. Use a pocket hole connection jig to plug
the hole or use screws from the top and bottom shelves as well.
● For efficiency, drill all the locations for the pocket hole screws prior to
assembling
Building the Frame

● Locate the parts to build the frame. Before you do anything, make sure the
pocket holes are hidden.
● Can use wood glue as well for added strength as it begin to join the parts.
Since work alone the clamp-it corner clamps which are very helpful and will
keep things aligned as screws are added.
Add the Dividers and Back

● After putting the frame together, add the bottom shelf to the drawer enclosure.
● The distance from the base depends on how much space you need for your
shoes.
● Locate the next shelf with the drawer enclosure. This piece has the dado cut
running through it, have exactly 8 inches of spacing between the two shelves.
● Make sure that the dado joint is facing up. Use the middle divider to set the
spacing for the top shelf. Add glue to the joint, and then work the divider into
its place.
● Next, add the back. Note: I added rabbet cuts to the inside of the side panel. It
allows the back panel to sit even with the sides.
● Doing this will hide the plywood ends. Apply wood glue to the surface of
where the plywood backing is going to sit.
● Then, add brad nails to the top and bottom to hold things in place. Finally, add
clamps and weights. If you do not own a brad nailer, wood glue is strong
enough on its own
Building the Drawers

● The shelves are only constructed of two parts, a sheet of plywood and the trim
to cover the visible plywood layers. You will also need to trim the shelf
support, this way the shelves can be pushed all the way back.
● To assemble the drawer and glue the joints, it can be challenging to keep the
drawer square. However, a band clamp is an ideal solution. Use the band
clamp to hold its shape,
● Next, check to make sure all the measurements are equal. You can add
additional clamps as well.
Add Edge Banding

● To give a finishing look, I use an iron-on edge band. Since I used birch
plywood, I also used a birch edge band. Apply the edge band to all the visible
ends. Next, I use a 3\8 dowel to plug the holes left from the pocket holes, this
improves appearance.
Sand and Apply Finish

● Sand down the entire wardrobe. After, you can determine the space for your
shelves. This is also a great time to add support for your shelves.
● Obviously, this is the look that fits our taste so go wild and make this fit yours.
I just used white gloss paint for the clothing area and the drawer front. Then, I
used a fast drying water-based polycrylic to finish it off .

MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS
PLYWOOD
Plywood is an engineered wood made by glueing together thin veneer
sheets with a resin under high pressure. Thus, creating a thick, strong
and flexible flat sheet. It is usually most preferred as it is cheaper than
wood and doesn’t get warped or shrink in the long run.

APPLICATION:
Plywood finds application in many interior elements, from furniture and
storage to floors and ceilings. The main uses have so far been to make
furniture, modular kitchen cabinets and wardrobes. However, for
decorative purposes, plywood can be used as wall cladding, false
ceiling and wooden flooring, which can all give your home a cosy feeling

THICKNESS:
The thickness of Indian plywood available in 3 to 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm,
16 mm, 19 mm, 22 mm and 25 mm.
 Plywood of 3, 4 and 6 mm thickness is usually used for furniture and
interior appliances.

Thickness ranging from 12 mm to 19 mm are usually waterproofed and

made from hardwood. Hence such plies are usually used in kitchen
furniture, especially to make modular kitchens and other furniture.

The 16 mm thickness ply is preferred for a modular kitchen because

this thickness guarantees a strong modular kitchen and also lasts for a
long time because of its strength.

Plywood with a thickness of 25 mm is also known as shuttering

plywood. This kind of ply is the most superior of all plies and is used in
shuttering activities during construction and also for other construction
purposes.

TYPE:
Commercial Ply-
In India, the term commercial ply is referred to as the ‘MR’ grade ply.
This ply is the interior grade ply and used for making indoor furniture
units.

Commercial plywood is the most commonly used interior plywood, that

is, used in homes and offices. Commercial plywood is best used in dry
rooms such as living rooms, offices, offices, etc. It is most commonly
used to make furniture, wall panels, partitions, etc.

BWP Ply-
BWP grade stands for boiling waterproof grade which means the
plywood boards with BWP mark are boiling waterproof as per standard
norms. They can withstand prolonged exposure to water and moisture.
It can be used to make furniture like lawn chairs, garden tables, outdoor
swings, patio benches, terrace and balcony, and wooden storage units
that are placed outdoors.

Marine Ply-
Used in Kitchens and wet areas.

LAMINATES DEFINITION:
The most commonly used finishing layer for MDF, plywood,
particleboard, wooden furniture, wall panels and flooring are laminates.
Essentially, a composite artificial material, they are made by pressing
together thin layers of flat paper and plastic resins. The upper layer is
printed with a decorative pattern or colour.

TYPES:
Five main types-
● Decorative laminates – These have greater aesthetic appeal in
terms of finishes and patterns. Decorative laminates can be used
for doing ornamental overlays on furniture. And there are so
 many to choose from as well! Take a look at some of the popular
decorative laminates.
● Industrial laminates – These have higher strength and are more
resistant to wear and tear. They include high-performance
laminates which are fire retardant, antibacterial and chemical
resistant for application in hospitals and other industries.
● Compact laminates – These fairly thick ones are self-supporting
and do not need to be glued to any other material.
● Post formed laminates – These flexible versions are thinner
than regular laminates. They are used to wrap around tables,
columns etc.
● High-pressure and low-pressure laminates – Differing only in
the pressure with which the laminate is applied on a substrate,
HPL is usually used with plywood while LPL finds its use with
MDF.
VENEER
A veneer is an extremely thin sheet of rich-coloured wood (such as
mahogany, ebony, or rosewood) or precious materials (such as ivory or
tortoiseshell) cut in decorative patterns and applied to the surface area
of a piece of furniture.

EDGE
BANDING The process of covering the raw edges of wood panels with a thin strip
of wood, PVC, or resinous material is called edge banding. The
thickness can vary from .018" to 5mm or even more.Commercially,
edge banding is done using industry-grade heat applicators and a hot-
melt adhesive. For modular furniture, the material used is mostly PVC
which is easy to fix and has a long life.