TEXTILE CALCULATIONS FIBRE FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS Micronaire Value (Cotton) : The urit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram). Denier (Man-Made Fibres) : /eight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre. Micron (Wool) : Finenessis expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001 mm) Conversions: + Denier = 0.354 xMicrenaire value + Mcronaire value =2.824 xDerier YARN COUNTS Lis broadly classified into; 4. DIRECTSYSTEM 2. INDIRECTSYSTEM INDIRECT SYSTEM + English court (Ne) + French couri(Nf) + Matic count(Nm) + Worstad count Metic system: Metric court(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kiloreter(1000 meter) lengths per Kg. Nm = length inkm / weight in kg_ (01) Nm = length meter /waightin grams DIRECT SYSTEM + Texcount + DenierCONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS: ORAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delvery) DRAFT = delivery roll urface speed / feed roll surface speed Tex ‘Den ~_Grainsivd Tex | [dene ‘rye x 70.86 Ne 5314.9iden Nm x.5905 8.33 /gdyd [Den L texx9 9co0iNm ord x6377 nm [_1000nex _[_9000/de 14.1 Lata Grainsiya ‘ex/70.86 | _den/637.7 T40Nm Where, Nm— metric count, Nec ~ cotion court CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS [ Ounce Grains Grams __[_Kilograms Pounds [ounce |[ 2375 gran | 28350 grams Grains 0.03827 0.0848 grams ounces Grams [0.03827 gains | 15.482 grains 0.001 kgs } 2.2046 Kilograms | 36.274 ounces | 15432 grains | 1000 grams mol Pounds GO ounces || 7000 grains [455.50 game | O4506kgs ] CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES Yard Feet Inches | Centimeter | Meter | Yard 3 feet 36inctes | 9144cms | 09144 meter Feet 03333 yards ‘inches | 30.48cms | ©2048 meter 0254 Inches 00278 yards | 0.0833 feet 254oms | O24 Genimetr | 00109 yards | 0.0528feet [0.5057 inches (0.0 tmeter| Meter 7.0996 yards | 3.281 foot | 29.37inches | 100 ens CALCULATIONS + Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne + Grams per yard = 0.54 /Ne + Tex=denx.11 = 1000Nm=Mie25.4 + Ne = Nnv1.693, + DRAFT= [feed weight in gim) /(delvery weightingin) No of hanks delivered bymvc= (Length del vered in m/min) / 1.605BLOW ROOM % twas in cotton -% trash in tap (1) Blow-room Cleaning Efficiency% (CE) = % trash incotton (2) Lintin waste (%) = 100 -CE CARDING (1) P=(Lx 1.0936 x60 x Effy) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) P - production in kgs / hr L-delivery speed in mvin ceffy- efficiency Ne - English count (number of 840 yards in one pound) 840 -constant 2.2045- to convert from Ibs to kilograms (2) Production in Kgs/Hr=(L x Ktex x 60 x Effy) /(1000) L-delivery speed in min Ktex-siver count in Kiex (kilotex) cffy- officioncy 1000- to convert to kilograms from grams (3) Produetion In Kgs /8 Hrs = (0.2836 xL x Effy) /(Ne) L-delivery speed in nvinin ceffy- efficiency Ne - English court (4) Prodn/8 Hrs = (Hank x Nd)/( Ne x 2.2045) Hank =o of hank (840 yards)delivered bythe machine Nd =no of deliveries Ne =hank of the material (6) Total Draftin Card = (Feed Weight in g/m)/ (Sliver Weight in g/m)Wt peryard of lap fed Wt per yard of card sliver delivered (©) Actual draft Length of card slverdelivered (1) Mechanical drat = ————————_____ Length of ap fad or Draft constantof card machine Dratt change pirion (8) Actual draft is always greater than tha mecharical draft in carding because it is the carding waste% that increases the actual draft. DRAWFRAME, (1) Break Draft= Surface Speed of 2nd Roller /Surface Speed of Back Roller (2) Main Draft = Surfaco Speed of 1st Roller / Surfaco Spood of 2" (Middle) Roller (3) Total Draft= Surface spoed of delivory roller surface of feed rollor (4) Production in Kgs /8 Hrs = (0.2836 x x Effy x Na) /(Ne) L-delivery speed in nviin cffy- efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No ofdelvieries (8) Prodn In Kgs /Hr = (FRD x Fr. rpm x 3.14 x 60 x Effy x No) | (Ne x 840 x 36 x 2.2045) FRO --frontrollerdia in inches FRrpm- frontroller pm. efly-efficiency Ne - Sliver hank Nd - number of deliveries SPEEDF RAME + RINGFRAME (1) Twist/inch (TP) = Spindle Speed /FRS FRS - font roler surface speed in inchesimin@ (3) (4) 6) (6) m (8) @) (10) (1) (12) (13) FRS =Fr. pm x 3.14 xFRD FRS - Front roller surface spoed FRO -frontroter diameter TP =TM.x Sart (Count orHank) LM. - Twist mutiplier sqft -square root Prodn in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (7.2 x SS x Effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000) SS- spindle speed Spindle Speed = M/Min x TPI x 39.37 Hank Delivered =Spindle Speed /( Tpi x 62.89) Single yarn stength (gm) RKM = ———___— Tex number of yarn Ring bobbin content = 3.1 LD? (L=Liftininch, D = ring dia in inch] Doubling bobbin content = 3.7 LD? Actual count x (1 + Present regain) Corrected count = | ———————______— 1 + Standard regain ‘Weight per yard ofroving fed Actual draftof ring frame = —————————___—___ Weight per yard of yam delivered on bobbin Surface speed of frontroller Mechanical drat of ring frame = ——— a Surface speed of back roller Draft constant Draftchange pinion Twistcontraction% = itis basicaly the percent shortaring inlength of ‘yam between the front rollor and the bobbin. The length at the frort roll is taken as 100%. For example 5% twist cortraction ears, the yarn length on the bobbin is 95% of the length at the(14) (15) (16) (17) (18 (19) (20) (21) (22) frort roll ‘Yam court at front roll - yarn count at bobbin TC% = ————— >< 100 ‘Yam court at front roll Example of twist contraction given yam: Count on bobbin = 10 ‘Twist contraction = 5% 40x 1.00, ‘Yarn count at front roll = ———— = 10.53 05% Mechanical drat is always greater than actual draftin ring spinning? Its necessary to draft the roving to a finer yam count at front roll that what is to be bobbin. Because due to twist contraction of yarn, the count of yam on bebbin becomes coarser than the count of yam at frontroller. Twist perinch (TP) \ Court (Ne) ‘Twist mutiplier or Twist factor P| = Twistmuiplier x \Count (Ne) or Twistconstart of fing frame {pgs Twist charge pinion Tums per metre (TPM) = Twist factor Nm PI = TPM x 00254 Ring Traveller Speed Ring Traveler Speed inm/Sec= (Spindle Spaed x Ring Dia in mm x3.14) (60x1000) Actual ring traveler speed ? Assume, spindle speed = 9,000 pm Ring Diameter = 57mmFront roll delivery 64 metre/min. Package circumference 102 mm (avg) Front roll delivery (rvmin) x 1000 Traveller lag (rpm) = Spindle speed — ———_____ Package circumference (mm) 44x4000, = 900 - = 8363 rpm 402 Traveller iag 900 ~8863 = 137 pm Uncorrected traveller speed (m/sec.) Spindle speed x Ring diameter (mm) xx 1000 x60 9000 x 57 x3.142 = 26.8 msec. 1000 x60 Corrected Traveller speed (misec.) ing dia (mm) xr x Trav. Lag (pm) Traveller speed (m/sec) = 60x 1000 57x3.142 137 = 26.6 -——____. = 26.39 msec. 60x 1000 (23) Weights of ring travellers No.1 and 1/0. For No. 1 = 90 grains /100 travelers For No.1/0 = 80 grains/1 00 travellers WINDING 1. Slub catcher settings : a FixedBlade = Carded (2.0 to 2.5) xdiereter Combed - (1.5 10 20) xdiameterb. Electronic yam clearer= 3 omx3 diameter Diameterin inch = 128 x\court ) for Blended yarn = 10 to 15% more settings 2. Yam clearer efficiency = Number of objectionable thick faulls removed by slub catcher x 100 Total objectionable thick faults present in yam before winding ‘Total breaks during winding (at faults) 3. Knotfactors No. of breaks cue to objectionable yam faults Strength of spliced joint x 100 4. Retained splice strengt-=———_________— Strength of parent yam 5. Winding Tension= 0.1 x Single yamstength in grams 4500 x¥ 6. Expected efficiency E SXN(12+98) 7. Winder’s workload (0.17 mir/operaton on converiional winding mic = 2300 operations per shift of 8 hours: where, 1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation 1 doffing = 2 operations 8. Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours where, + bobbing feeding = 1 operation 1 doffing (marl) = 4.5 operation Y = LengtivBobbin (metres) B = Breaks per bobbin S = Winding speed (metrs/min) © = English count (@) _Productionin Kgs/8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy Nd)/ (Ne)L-delvery speed in mvmin ceffy- efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries (10) P=(Lx 1.0996 x 60 xEffy )/(Hank (Ne) x 96 x 840 x2.2045) P - production in kgs / hr L-delivery speed in min effy- efficiency Ne - English count (number of 840 yards in one pound) ‘840 -constant 2.2048. to convert from Ibs to kilograms WARPING Rx100 1. Machine Efficiency = R+s R= Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec) 1000 x60 Machine speed in mit/min, $= Total oftime in seconds for wich the mackine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters BXNXT! T2 13 = Rt +14 400 Lo oLxe B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters N= Number of ends Set length in 1,000 meters C= Beams per cree! Timing of activiies in seconds are 1 fo mend a break fo change @ beam fo change a creel 4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mirs,2. Productionin metres per 8 hrs. (K) 180 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs. 3. Productionin kgs. per 8 hrs. = (Kx N)/(1693 xEnglish Count) 4. Warping Tension=0.03 to 0.05 xSingle thread strength SIZING Length in metro x 1.094 x Total ends 1. Warp weight = x 100 inks.) 840 x 2.204 x Warp count Sized warp weight -Unsized warp weight 2. Size pickup page Un-sized warp weight x 100 3. Weight of size = Warp Weightx Size pick up % Sized warp length - Unsized warp length 4. Stretch %age_= x 100 Un-sized warp length Tetalends x Warp lengthin yards 8. Sized yam = count Sized warp weight (bs) x 840 Wt ofsized yam- Wt of oven dried yarn 6. Yeage Moisture x 100 ‘content Wh of s20d yarn Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading 7. age Stet = x 100 Feed counter reading £840,000 xD xc 8. Yeage Droppings=—————_ x 100 ‘on ioom, 454 YxNxP D = Dropping in gms. C=Engish Count Number of Ends 9. hnisible Loss% = Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn a x 100 Amourtof size issuedSteam, Consumption (Sizing Mic) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yam (Cocker) =0.3 kg/kg ofliquor (Sow box) = 0.2 kgikg of yam No. of Gyinder x 1,000 x English count 10. Max Speed of machine —= (retres/min) Number of ends Number of ends x 0.6 41. Wt. of warp in gmsinnie English court WEAVING 4. Reod Count: Lis calculated in stock port system, EPI Reed width= 1+ Welt ciimp %age No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count 2. Reed Width: 100 + Weft crimp %age Reed width = Cloth wicth_ x 100 3. Crimp %age = Warp length - Cloth langth Warp Crimp %age —=————— x 100 Cloth lerath Welt lergth- Cloth iength Weft Crimp %aqe=——— x 100 Cloth length EPI 4. Warp cover factor=——— ‘Warp Count PPI 5. Weftcover factor =——— “Wet court Wp.CF. xWt CF. 6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + WLC.7. Maximum EPI for particular count a. Forplaintabrics = b. Fordiifabrics = c. Forsatinfabric = 4. Olherdesign= 14x\Count \Courtx 28 x 4/6 (Countx 28 x 5/7 28 Enderepeat x 1 / yam diameter No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat 8. Yam diameter 28x Weave Density 1 Count 1. Warp density = Ends/om x \Texx k = <250 2. Filing dersity = Picks/emx \Texx K =< 350 (Warp density- 100) xF D~ 100 3. Weave Density = §8-————— (Weft density- 100) xF.D.- 100 4. Effective weave donsity=W.D. x ofloom width xK of Design= <72 Vipieg K Looe wea K Views Date K vatan 0399 PoestwCoten 103 [100m 100 Vocose Fabment= 4.47 [19am 404 Potecior iment 422 [22am 402 75tom 108 330m 415 60cm 120 To change the count and number of threadiinch, keeping the same denseness of the fabric : 1. Tochange the EPI without altering the denseressEPlingivencloth x Y Warp countin expected cloth EPlin Ex9.Cloth = $$$ a 1 Warp count in given cloth, 2. Tochange the court withcut atering the densenass EPlinexp. dot? EPlin exp. th = ——————x Court ingen cloth EPlingWencloth Warp requirement to weave a cloth : Total ends x 1.0935 x 453.59 xcrimp% 1. Warp weightingms/mus. = x Waste 840 x Count age 2. Weftweightin gmsimtrs. RS. Ininches x 453.59 x PPI = ——____ x Grip %age x Waste %eage 840 xCount ‘Weft wt in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x0.9144 3. Clothlength in mire with = the given wert weight PPI x RS. ininches For Silk and Polyester : 1. Warp weightingms/mus. Total ends x Count (Denier) x Crimp% xWaste Yeage 9000 2. Weftweightin gmsimtrs. RS in inches x PPIx Count (Derier) = XG inp% xWaste ‘bage 9000 Allowance for countin Bleached and Dyed Fabric : + Court becomes 4% ¢ Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser FABRIC PRODUCTIONMctor puley diameter 1. Loomspeed=MotorRPM x Loom puley diameter ‘Actual production 2. Loom Efficiency %sage = ———————— x 100 Calculated production ‘Yam weight- Dryed yamweight 3. Moisture Regain %age = oe —— x 100 Dryed yam weight ‘Yarnweight - died yam weight 4. Moisture Content %age = ——————_—_— x 100 Yamweight Total ends x Tape length in metre 5. Warp weighting. 1693.6 x Warp count RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres xPPI ©. Weftweightinkg, 4301.14 x Weft count PPI ——— «258 Warp court Weft count 7. Clothweightin GSM GSM (Grams per sq, metre) 8. Oz(Ounce) per sqyard = —————— - 34 Material measurement: For calculating of length of any roled fabrics 0.0855 (D-d) (0 +d) 2 —— t Where, L = Length of material feet) {= Thickness of fabrics (Inches) D = Oitside diameter (inches) Inside diameter (inches) Weight of yarn in a cloth:‘The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yams in the werp and waft: ands/inch, picks/inchand the weight of size on the warp. ‘Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (Allinibs.) Total No, of Ends x Tape length inyds. ‘Where as Weight of warp in ibs = ——- ‘840 x Warp yarn count Aso Weigh of wett in bs. Length of doth (yds) x Picks/Inch in cloth x Reed wath (inch) 840.x Weft yam count