Apparel Internship

Report

Richa & Co. - Gaurav International

Submitted By:

Ankita Kumari (BFT/18/244)

Shagun Sinha (BFT/18/172)

Tanya Choudhary (BFT/18/895)

 Table of Contents
Table of Contents 1

Certificate 5

Acknowledgement 7

About the Company 8

Introduction 8
Richa Group 9
Richa Group’s Presence 9
Sales Summary 10
Mission and Vision 11
Board of Directors 11
Awards 12
Infrastructure 12
Cutting 13
Embroidery & Sequence Attachment 13
Stitching 13
Washing and Finishing 14
Final Inspection 14
Product Range 15
Woven Garments 15
Knitted Garments 16
Home Furnishing 16

Organisational Structure 20

Departmental Study 21
Fabric Store 21
Sourcing Regions 22
Textile industries from where fabric is sourced are: 22
Fabric store 23
Fabric Flow Process 25
Fabric and Cutting Storage System 26
Shrinkage Colour Code 26
Placing Order 27

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 Receiving Order 27
Further Issuing Of Fabric 30
Lead Time 30
Inspection Process 30
Inspection Report 33
Trim Store 36
Accessories Process Flow 36
Inspection of trims 37
Defect Sorting 39
Documents Used By Accessories Store 39
Embroidery Department 40
Workforce in the Embroidery Department 41
Capacity of the machine 42
Purchase Department 43
Product Development Department 46
Workforce of the PD Department 47
Merchandising Department 48
Marketing merchandising 48
Product merchandising 48
Roles & Responsibilities of Merchandiser 48
Workflow of Merchandising Department 49
List of Documents 52
Costing of Garment 53
Merchandising File Includes: 53
First of Bulk Working 54
Workforce of Merchandising Department 55
Sampling Department 56
Functions of Sampling Department 56
Working Of the Sampling Department 57
Types of Samples 58
Workforce in the Sampling Department 59
Machine Details in Sampling Department 60
Production Planning And Control 61
Functions 62
Duties of a PPC Manager: 62
Process Flow 63

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 Activities Involved 63
Capacity Calculations 65
Planning Efficiency 66
Industrial Engineering Department (IED) 67
The different functions of the IED are as follows: 67
Spreading And Cutting 68
CAD Department 69
Marker planning 70
Spreading 72
Spreading Process 72
Laying of fusing material 75
Lay Inspection 76
Cutting 78
Cutting Process flow 78
Manpower in Cutting Department 79
Cutting Equipment 80
Manual Cutting 81
Cutting by Gerber Cutter 81
Cutting Audit Report 82
Fusing 82
Machine Maintenance 83
Fusing Temperature Test Report 83
Fusible components check for pattern 84
Bundling and Ticketing 84
Sewing Department 85
Goals for Sewing Department 85
Process Flow of the Sewing Department 89
Production Monitoring 90
Inspection Procedure 91
Sewing End Line Inspection 93
Sewing Room Layout 96
Manpower in the sewing department 96
Sewing Room Equipment 97
Button Hole/Attaching 98
Maintenance Department 99
Format of the Broken Needle Control Log 100

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 Purchase Requisition 100
Manpower in the Machine Maintenance Department 100
Washing Department 101
Process Flow 101
Types of washing machines 102
Time taken for various fabrics 108
Types of Washing done in this unit: 108
Types of washing done in other units 108
Daily Capacity of Washing: 108
Chemicals used in washing 109
Washing department Hierarchy 110
Buyer Requirement Sheets & Daily Maintenance Records 110
Finishing Department 112
Quality Audit 115
Packaging Department 116
List of Defects that are checked for During Audits: 120
Process Flow OF Packaging: SOL 122
Shipping Marks and Labels 124
Quality and R&D 124
Quality Process 124
Fabric Quality Check 124
Trims 0
Cutting 125
Stitching 125
Needle Checking 126
Washing and Finishing 126
Final Quality Inspection 127
Children Safety 127
Research and Development 127
Roles and Responsibilities 127
Testing Laboratory 128
Details Of Lab 128
Testing Processes 129
Procedures 132
Shipping Department 132
Documentation 132

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 EDP Department 135
Maintaining the ERP system 135
Networking of the unit: 136
Manpower in the EDP Department 136
Corporate Social Responsibility 137

Project 137
Introduction 138
Materials and Methods 138
Problem areas 140
Solutions 142
Results & discussion 142
Conclusion 145

References 145

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 Certificate

This is to certify that this Apparel Internship Report of Gaurav International, submitted to NIFT
Kolkata, is a bonafide record of work done by Ankita Kumari, Shagun Sinha and Tanya
Choudhary under my supervision from 1/7/2021 to 14/8/2021.

Mr. Jyoti Prakash Behera

Associate Professor,

NIFT Kolkata

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 Acknowledgement

First and foremost, we would like to thank our CC (Centre Coordinator), Mr SS.Ray for guiding us
about the internship and giving us helpful advice.

Next we would like to express our sincere gratitude towards our college mentor, Mr. Jyoti
Prakash Behera, for his constant guidance through our Endeavor.

We would also like to thank our industry mentors for the valuable guidance, advice, useful
comments, remarks and engagement throughout the learning process of this project and for
sharing their precious time with us during the internship.

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 About the Company
Introduction

Established in 1977, Richa Group is a name to reckon with in the garment industry. Within a short
span of time, it has positioned itself as a global organization with a distinctive identity. TheGroup
has a remarkable presence in the readymade garments export industry including woven, knitted
and home furnishing.

Today, Richa Group is equipped with 12 fully integrated manufacturing units in Delhi, Gurgaon
and Manesar. It stands tall with 500 Cr turnover. Making use of the latest technologies through
its competent professionals, the Group is setting new benchmarks in the industry. It fosters an
organizational culture. A workforce of 15000 professionals is leading the Group to newer heights.

Richa Group aims to be a paradigm of perfection. It upholds the world-class standards in all of its
processes. The Group has left no stone unturned to achieve the best at all levels of its operations.
The aspirations of the Group attain fulfillment in its outstanding performance. It has established
strategic relations with clients from all over the world.

Richa Group has been in the forefront of the industry complying with the customer's
requirements following government laws and regulations. Today, it is seen as a customerfriendly,
eco-responsive corporate citizen that is shaping a better tomorrow for everyone.

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Richa Group

Richa Group is a group of two companies:

Richa and Co.

Richa and Company was set up in 1977. The company is operating with its four units located at
Kirti Nagar (Delhi), Mayapuri (Delhi), Mangolpuri (Delhi) and Gurugram. It specialises in the
manufacture of woven garments.

Gaurav International

Established in 1983, Gaurav International manufactures woven readymade garments of excellent

qualities. The company is operating from its unit in Gurugram.

Richa Group’s Presence

Sales: $141 Million (2018-2019)

Total Number of Employees: 15000+

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Country wise Business Allocation:

● 85% USA
● 15% EUROPE

Product Wise Business Allocation:

● 90% Women
● 8% Children
● 2% Men

Monthly Capacity: 1.5 Million Pieces Approx.

Total No. of Factories: 15

Sales Summary

2016-2017: $124 Million

Department Sales in MIllion ($)

Woven/ Knits 117

Home 7

2017-2018: $137.5 Million

Woven/ Knits 130

Home 7.5

2018-2019: $141 Million

Woven/ Knits 133

Home 8

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Mission and Vision

Mission : The mission of Richa Group to extend its spheres of activities to all segments of the
garments industry. Richa Group aspires to capture the leadership positions in all areas of its
operations.

Vision: Richa Group envisages itself as a trendsetter of the garments industry. The group has a
vision to set newer benchmarks which will redefine the term "Excellence".

Board of Directors

The highly qualified and experienced directors are leading Richa Group ahead of its competitors.
It is surging ahead creating new benchmarks in the industry. Motivation, dedication and
professionalism of the directors are working as the catalyst behind the rapid growth of the group.
The directors are committed to lead the company with newer promises and commitments in the
days ahead.

Mr. Vijay Uppal (Chairman)
Mr. Vijay Uppal is the Chairman of the Richa Group.
Guided by his rich experience and insightful vision, the
group is constantly progressing to new dimensions of
globalization. He is heading the Marketing department
and his contribution is very instrumental in the group's
success.

Mr. Vinay Uppal (Managing Director)
Mr. Vinay Uppal is the Joint Managing Director of the
group taking care of the production department.
Under his skillful guidance and a proactive
professional approach, Richa Group ensured world
class production.

Mr. Raghav Uppal Mr. Raghav Uppal is the joint Managing Director at
Gaurav International

Mr. Karan Uppal Mr. Karan Uppal is the Joint Director at Richa & Co.

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Awards

A host of awards owned by the company stands testimony to the level of experience that the
company has achieved. It encourages the company to take new initiatives to enhance its
capabilities in all aspects of operations.

International retailing giant Wal-Mart has awarded Richa Group with Wal-Mart International
Supplier of the Year Award for 2006. Rich Group has won this award for its excellent performance
in apparel supply.

Infrastructure

Richa Group is equipped with more than 12 fully integrated manufacturing units in Delhi,
Gurgaon & Manesar. The Group is all set to establish more and more manufacturing units. It will
further enhance the production capacity of the Group. A textile mill at Tiruttani near Chennai is
giving an extra dimension to the Group. Offices strategically located all over India are operating
with a commitment to excel.

The unique blend of modern technologies from all over the world has enabled Richa Group to
maximize its capability. Keeping an account of the changing needs of the customers the Group
equips itself with the latest technologies. It is determined to make use of the most modern
technologies for offering the finest product to the clients. Technological superiority plays a crucial
role in gaining an edge in today’s competitive market. It also empowers the Group to achieve the
optimum production levels. The latest highlighted-tech machinery is used at every

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stage, from - designing (CAD), Cutting (Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to
Fabric Testing (Fully Equipped Laboratory) and Fusing.

Cutting

The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber cutter that

ensures 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times
and expedites the cutting process with minimal waste and
cost. The section also has Fusing machines. Most modern
CAD systems from Gerber, Tukatech and Lectra are
employed for Computerized Precision Pattern Making,
Grading and Marking Systems.

Embroidery & Sequence Attachment

The embroidery division at Richa Group is equipped with more than 40 computerized machines
of 20 heads each, from Barudan and SWF. The facility also has 5 sampling machines with 4 heads
each. Advanced designing systems and elaborate matching processes are employed to achieve
intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration.

Stitching

With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labor capable of producing stylized
garments with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech infrastructure. The
production lines are fully integrated and operational with various types of powered sewing
machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus, Yamato & special machines like Computerized Welt

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Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop Attachment Machines, Multi Needle Kansai Special Machines &
Tunnel Cover Seaming Machines.

Washing and Finishing

Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high

quality washing and wrinkle-free finishing. The in-house
washing capacity is one million pieces per month. The laundry
division is well equipped with automatic washers, extractors,
PERK and dryers. It has ultramodern facilities like Enzyme,
Stone, Sandblasting, Pigment Dying, Over Dying and Vertical
Garment Processing with Auto Tilting etc. Various pressing
machines and heat transferring machines are also available to
ensure improvement in high functional performance of the
garment through specialty finishing.

Final Inspection

Richa Group has an efficient Final Inspection Department

equipped with the latest equipment. This section plays the
most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all the
products. It is inspected that all the features demanded by the
clients are designed or not. The experts thoroughly check all
the products to make sure that the perfect products are
delivered to the client. The products carry the brand image of

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the company. That’s why utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the
products are faultless.

Product Range

Through an exquisite range of products, Richa Group has positioned itself as a premier
manufacturer of woven, knitted, leather garments and home furnishing products. The expertise
that the Richa Group has achieved is expressed through its exclusive ranges of products. Before
manufacturing a range of products, latest fashion trends, demands in the market, and the
requirements of the clients are thoroughly analysed.

Woven Garments

The woven division of Richa Group is equipped with state-of-

the-art technology. Leveraging on its technicalsuperiority and
the expertise of the professionals, this division has achieved
an in-house annual production capacity of 15 million pieces.
A skilled workforce experienced in Computer Aided Design
and manufacturing systems is carrying out responsibilities
with dedication and cooperation. Keeping abreast of the
changes in the industry

15
it is continuously upgrading itself. Richa Group presents an exclusive range of woven garments
including shirts, pants, ladies tops, trousers, cargo pants and shorts, skirts etc.

Requirement of the clients is one of the foremost elements that determines the specifications of
the products. The preferences of the clients vary from place to place. Besides, it keeps on
changing from time to time. Keeping an account of all these aspects, the woven division of Richa
Group manufactures the products as per the market demand.

To position itself as a truly world-class manufacturer, the woven division strives to achieve global
standards in quality, cost, service and scale of operation. It is using innovative technologies to
manufacture the finest products at reasonable cost. Richa Group enjoys a technological
advantage making it the choicest destination of the clients for readymade woven garments.

Knitted Garments

Richa Group has successfully created a superior

foothold in the knit category too. The total
capacity of the Knits division is 1 million
garments per year. It specializes in a variety of
products for men, women and kids including
Polo T-shirts, Jackets, Ladies knitted tops, crew
neck t-shirts etc.

Richa Group is well accepted as a leading vendor

of knitwear by the buyers from all the major
destinations of the world. Because of the
world-class standards that it maintains while manufacturing the products, it has become a
reputed manufacturer of knitted garments in
the international arena. Many reputed brands
have enriched the clientele of the Richa Group.
It speaks volumes of the level of efficiency that
the knits division has achieved.

Home Furnishing

In order to cater to the rising demands forhome

furnishing products, Richa Group

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ventured into this sector with a commitment to excel. This division offers a new dimension to the
Richa Group to further expand its business empire. Armed with an experienced and dedicated
team of professionals, the home furnishing division is catering to the needs of clients, delivering
world-class products of the finest quality, at reasonable rates. The range of products includes
table linen, drapery, top of beds, throws, cushion covers, etc.

Clients

Through a wide range of high fashion garments for men, women and children, Richa Group has
marked a distinguished presence in over fifteen countries including USA, UK, Europe and Canada.
In the leading retail outlets around the world, the products of Richa Group are flauntingthe latest
fashions. With over two decades of presence as a major Indian Government

17
Recognized Trading House in the international fashion apparel market, Richa Group has become
a widely admired name.

The Richa Group has become a favored supplier of High fashion garments and has worked with
the leading customers across the world.

UNIT 193

● NORDSTROM- RED CAMEL

● AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS- AERI
● TOM TAYLOR
● MACY’S- CHARTER CLUB, STYLE AND CO., INC.
● BELK- CROWN AND IVY

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UNIT 236

● J CREW
● J CREW OUTLET
● MADEWELL
● REBECCA TAILOR
● CHICOS
● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
● TOGETHER LTD.
● GEORGE
● NEXT

UNIT 225

● LUCKY BRAND
● LUCKY BRAND OUTLET
● J JILL
● CLUB MONACO
● CLUB MONACO MEN’S
● TALBOTS

UNIT 389

● SEASALT
● J JILL
● AMERICAN EAGLE
● AERI
● NORDSTROM
● ANN TAYLOR
● LOFT
● LUCKY
● CHICOS
● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
● BELK

UNIT 479

● ANN TAYLOR
● LOFT

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UNIT 239

● CHICO
● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
● NORDSTROM

Organizational Structure

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Departmental Study
Fabric department

The fabric department is responsible for sourcing of fabric, its inspection and storage. The
industry indulges itself in production of both- knits and woven and thus the departments have
been segregated according to the type of fabric required by the buyer. Another important part
of the fabric department is the mill team. The mill team plays a major role in the sourcing as it
works for the garment factory by staying in the textile factory. It helps in coordination between
the mill and the store.

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Sourcing Regions

The sourcing regions are:

1. Ludhiana (for yarn dyed)

2. Salem (for yarn dyed)

3. Ludhiana (for knits)

4. China (for jacquard)

5. Amritsar (woolen, nylon)

6. Delhi (regular solid fabrics

7. Maharashtra (regular fabrics)

8. Surat (polyester)

9. Banaras (silk)

10. Panipat (home furnishing)

11. Surat (polycontent)

Textile industries from where fabric is sourced are:

1. Bombay Rayon Fashion Limited

2. Thermo Packaging pvt ltd.

3. Shaoxing Keqiao Jieda Import & Export

4. Global Creations

5. Veronica Export

6. Shivam International

7. Tex Styles International

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8. Vijay Impex

9. KG Denim

10. Shree Ramkrishna Ltd.

11. Jain Textile Industries

12. Shree Gopalkrishna

13. GG Fashions

14. Auro textiles

15. Mafatlal Industries Ltd. Gujarat

Fabric store

Standard operating procedure for the fabric store area is as follows:

1. Receive the initial lot fabric and check with the buyer color standard or approved lab dip.

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2. Cut the swatch (0.70 cm) from the initial lot and send it to the lab for internal lab test to check
shrinkage, tear and tensile strength, color fastness to washing and crocking and fabric GSM.

3. If an internal lab test report is approved, then submit to the merchandiser, and order the
concerned mill to move for the bulk production.

4. If the lab test report is not approved, then send it back to the mill for reprocessing.

5. The bulk fabric is received and the physical quantity is checked as per the challans/bills. If ok
then it moves to the inspection area otherwise it is informed to the fabric store head.

6. The fabric is checked thoroughly for the following points:

a) Approved initial lot

b) Various types of defects under the 4 point system

c) Lot segregation

d) Shrinkage checking

e) Selvedge checking in every dyed fabric

7. After checked and approved the fabric is stored according:

a. Style Wise
b. Lot Wise
c. Lot Wise
d. Shrinkage Wise

8. Issue the fabric, lot wise and shrinkage wise, as per the requirement to the cutting
department.

24
Fabric Flow Process

25
Fabric and Cutting Storage System

Shrinkage Colour Code

Colour wise Lot Stickers Colour wise Shade Stickers

26
Fabric store has various racks where they store fabrics categorizing it in three types based on
stickers:
1. Red- rejected lot
2. Green- approved lot
3. Yellow – approved but has few defects needs approval before cutting.

Material handling is done with the help of trolley and lift.

Fabrics are inspected on the inspection table.
And fabrics in thans are inspected separately.
Fabrics are segregated on the basis of lots and are further forwarded for color testing and
approval

Test Reports are of three types

1. For solid dyed- lab dip
2. For prints- strike off
3. For yarn dyed- desk loom

Placing Order

The buyer first gives his requirement for the garment to the merchant who in turn coordinates
with the merchant coordinator of the fabric store. Different quality swatches are sent to different
mills.

Many factors should be considered before placing an order. The past working records are
examined to make sure of the quality and delivery on time. A very important part is the cost of
the fabric. A few chosen qualities of the fabric are sent to the buyer for approval. Once the quality
is approved, order will be placed.

Instead of these steps, in some cases, buyers nominate the mills themselves and the merchant
co-coordinator has to do business with those mills only.

Receiving Order

When the order arrives, the details are entered into the software. First the quantity is checked
at the gate itself so that they know how much payment is to be made and to avoid any
discrepancies. Once the fabric is received, it is kept in the stock of unchecked fabric and marked
by priority. If it is a high priority, then the fabric goes under inspection within appropriate time.

27
Now, on inspection the QA discusses the problems that can be faced during any point in
production. These problems are then discussed between the merchant and the buyer.
Sometimes the call outs are ignored; sometimes an alternative is suggested and accordingly
acted upon. After inspection, the rejected fabric is either replaced or rejected.

Another important factor to consider is lotting. During inspection, different lots are divided from
A, B, C, and D. The whole fabric is then divided according to these lots and is issued in production
batch wise to avoid any shade variation in the garments.

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Storage of fabric is also necessary to be systematic to avoid confusions. After inspection fabric is
kept into racks with style wise priority. If the fabric needs to be cut shortly, it is kept in easily
accessible areas in the storage room. The receipt stuck to the rack contains the following details:

● Name of the buyer.

● Style number.
● Name of the fabric.
● Colour of the fabric.
● Count/construction of the fabric.
● Supplier’s name.

Some standard procedures to be followed are:

● All fabric received is to be checked against the purchase order and if less than 5%
quantity is received, it is to be informed to the mill.
● 10% of the fabric is to be checked within 24-48 hrs and the report of the problem found
to be made.
● Fabric received should have mill lot no. and roll no. which is noted and the company’s
own lot no. and roll no. are assigned in a register.
● For the wash program, 100% fabric checking is required and if non-wash then only 10%
is to be checked.
● Fabric is checked on a 4 point system against the approved FOB or the approved lots
received from the buyer.
● Though the lots have the mill roll no., lot no. and shades still the department has to do
shading for the same.
● If more than 4 shades are found then it is sent for approval.
● Shades approved as A, B, C and D are indicated with a sticker on roll.
● Fabric rolls checked and passed are marked with blue stickers on roll and if failed are
indicated by red stickers on rolls.
● All fabric whether washed or unwashed needs to be covered in a polybag thoroughly.
● All fabric pertaining to a style should be kept at one place with indication on board.
● Fabric should not be kept on the floor, pallets to be used, and even fabric checkers
should wear fabric slippers during checking fabric.

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Further Issuing Of Fabric

● Once closures on fabric and shades are made, fabric is then issued in cutting through
internal ‘challans’.
● Fabric is to be issued style wise, shade wise, and lot wise to the cutting department.
● Rejected rolls are to be recorded in the register mentioning the lot, shade and quantity
and to be issued last only after approval of a senior person within the facility for waste
cut.
● Style wise fabric sheets with quantity of fabric, color wise, lot wise, roll wise, shade wise
should always be available and also given to the cutting department.
● All fabric issued challans pertaining to style should be kept in separate file if any, for
smooth flow of working.

Lead Time

Lead time is the total time taken before the order actually arrives in the factory. It depends on
the fabric availability and quality of the fabric.

1. The regular qualities of voile, cambric etc. come under the category of greige fabric which
takes around 40-45 days for order. Greige fabric time: 15-20 days Processing time: 20-25 days

2. Special qualities like jacquard take around 60 days.

3. If a fabric requires embroidery, then 20 days are added to the lead time along with the
processing and greige fabric time.

4. A fabric is made by melange thread and takes almost 120 days with Processing time: 90 days
Shipping time: 30 days

Inspection Process

After receiving the fabric, it is put under inspection according to the requirement priority. The
inspection system used is a 4 point system.

Defects in both the warp/weft or coarse/wale directions will be assigned points using the
following criteria:

Length & Width Of Defects Found In Fabric Penalty Points Allotted

Upto 3” 1

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 3 - 6” 2

6 - 9” 3

More than 9” 4

For holes
Dimensions Of Hole Penalty Points Allotted

1” or less 2

Over 1” 4

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Point Calculation
The formula used to determine the point count
level a roll of fabric is as follows:
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟 𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑝𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑠× 10,000 /𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙
𝑖𝑛𝑠𝑝𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠×𝐶𝑢𝑡𝑡𝑎𝑏𝑙𝑒 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑐𝑚) = Points
per 100 square meter.
The total penalty points shall be divided by the
result of the meters inspected and multiplied by
the cuttable width in centimeter. The result
obtained shall be multiplied by 10,000 to calculate
points per 100 square meters. Acceptable Points
= Less than 40 points per roll/lot

Rejection Rate

A 100% inspection of the fabric is done in the

factory. There is always an acceptable rejection
rate which decides whether the fabric is fit for
use or it needs to be either replenished or
replaced.

For regular fabrics: if the rejection is 15-20%,

fabric is replenished but if the rejection is more than 40%, fabric is replaced completely.

For special fabrics: if the rejection is 20-30%, fabric is replenished but if rejection is more than
40%, fabric is replaced completely.

Major Defects:
1. Layer variation
2. Print variation
3. Skewing
4. Bowing
5. Holes
6. Centre to selvedge variation

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Inspection Report

An inspection report is prepared by the QC while checking the fabric. This report is to be filled
according to the defects found in the fabric, yard wise or meter wise. The system used to count
defects is the tally system. The columns are mentioned with defects named as stain, weaving, fly,
hole, patta, slub and others.

The format used for testing is as follows:

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Width Batching

The inspected width is measured for the cut width. The measurement of the result is recorded in
the inspection report. The narrowest width is considered as the cuttable width for the roll. If the
variance in the cut width is more than 1%, or the width shorter than invoiced width, it is notified
to the merchandiser for further action.

100% width checking is performed for all the consignments. If the fabric is found to be
inconsistent then it is grouped on the basis of the variable width. Total yardage of each width
with the packing list is submitted to the planning department as soon as the fabric inspection is
over. This enables the planning department to plan the marker of different widths. This
information is then forwarded to the CAD /CAM department.

Shrinkage Test

Randomly 10% of the rolls are tested from each batch or lot for shrinkage.

Other than this, the department has 6 tables for manual inspection.

Testing of Fabric

Richa & Co. doesn’t have a testing lab of its own. Thus, the internal testing is sent off to Unit 236,
Gaurav International whereas the external testing labs are generally nominated by the buyer.

The merchant coordinator is responsible for testing the fabric. The tests carried are chemical
tests such as light fastness, colour fastness, bursting/ tear strength, crocking, count/construction,
spiralty, dimensional stability and so on.

The labs for fabric testing nominated by the buyer are SGS, Intertek which are major for A&F and
Nordstrom.

34
Documentation

1. Fabric requisition worksheet

This worksheet is made by the merchant when he places the fabric order with the merchant
coordinator. This contains information like the requisition number, garment delivery date, plan
cut date, buyer and brand.

This is given to the merchant coordinator so as to give him an idea about the fabric required by
the buyer. It contains information about the fabric material required, if it should be printed or
not, the quality required, the count/ construction of the fabric. It also specifies the total quantity
required for the complete production.

2. Fabric purchase order

This document is made when the order has been placed so as to give a specific identity to the
order or fabric. It is a commercial document and first official offer issued by a seller, indicating
types, quantities, and agreed prices for products or services. It contains information like the
description of goods, print/colour process, width of the fabric, quantity, rate, value and remarks
if required to be put. To every requisition no. an order no. is assigned to mark the identity. The
delivery date window of fabric is also mentioned in the purchase order.

35
Trim Store

Accessories Process Flow

36
Dead stock registers are made for further requirements. The dead stock is used for sampling and
if a large amount of material is present it can be used for similar order.

Manpower in Accessory Store

Designation Number

Store In charge 1

Assistant 2

Computer operator 6

Checker 7

Helpers 5

Inspection of trims

When the accessory arrives, a sample of each item is given to the merchandising department
for confirmation as per the order. Once the item has been verified the merchandiser will inform
the accessory department to proceed with the appropriate testing.

All the accessories are given a 10% random inspection. Shade variation and color comparison
against the bulk thread, trim, etc. is checked in the light box.

Visual examination of the trims is performed for dye patches, stains, broken pieces, matching
thread colours, overall appearance. It is very important that the accessories conform to the buyer
requirement therefore measurement to specification, labelling accuracy i.e. code numbers,
lettering etc. are carefully examined.

37
Testing of colour fastness to washing of trims is also performed. Thread is sewed onto the fabric
and it is then washed. The colour of the thread should not get onto the fabric. Similarly colour
fastness of laces and tapes are tested.

For labelling inspection, the merchandising department will issue a label requirement sheet,
stating the correct label details for every style. During the label inspection, this sheet is used as a
guideline and all pieces checked should conform to the standard. The quality inspector performs
a random inspection of 10% random order. The maximum fault rate for the 10% inspection is 2%.
If the number of faults exceeds then another 10% inspection is performed. Both inspections are
recorded in accessory inspection reports. If still the fault exceeds the limit then the
merchandising department rejects the consignment.

Rest all tests are performed by the suppliers and the test report is given to the merchandising
dept.

Trims are inspected based on AQL 1.0

Shipment Size Lot Sample Size Pass Fail

1-90 13 0 1

91-150 50 1 2

151-280 50 1 3

281-500 80 2 3

501-1200 125 3 4

1201-3200 200 5 6

3201-10000 315 7 8

10001-35000 500 10 11

35001-150000 800 14 15

150001-500000 1250 21 22

500000-1 1250 21 22

38
Defect Sorting

From the first 10% inspection, samples of defects are collected and attached to a card. This card
is given to the QA manager who, along with fabric and trims incharge decides what is acceptable
and establishes the quality standard level. A copy of this standard report is given to
merchandising, stores, production and quality control departments.

Documents Used By Accessories Store

Sl No. Format Purpose of Use

1 Trim Testing Report for
trims like Laces, Satin Tapes,
and Metal Buttons that
require testing.
This report is prepared by the Testing Lab after
the testing of the trims like laces, twill tapes,
ribbons, metal buttons. One copy is sent to the
Accessories Store where it is maintained to
ensure that only inspected and approved
materials are issued to production.

2 Receipt Records The Following Details Are Mentioned In This

Record:
Inward Date, In Time, Transport, Supplier Name,
PO No., Invoice No., Item No., Material
Description, UOM ( Unit Of Measurement),
Invoice Qty., Physical Quantity, Sent To QC Date,
Remarks

3 Daily Inspection Records
This format has the following details. It is used by
the Quality Checker to enter the data for the
materials inspected.
Date, Invoice No., Purchase Order No., Supplier.
Name, Material Description, Size, Qty., Item No.,
Style No, Remarks.

4 Interoffice Memo This is used by the sub store to request for

materials in desired quantity from the main store.

39
Embroidery Department

The machine embroidery is outsourced from different units. There was 1 machine with 9 heads,
and the other two with 6 heads each. 1 machine had an attachment for sequin attachment.

Process Flow:

1. Design to be embroidered is received.

2. A sketch of actual size (khakha) is prepared, scanned and fed into the computer.
3. The sketch is then worked on in the software Wilcom ES- 65 designer.
4. A number of factors like colours, colour changes, stops are specified.
5. The number of stitches colour wise and thread consumption for every colour and bobbin
thread is calculated automatically by the software.
6. A sample of the embroidered fabric/garment is made and gotten approved by the buyer.
If required then changes are incorporated in it.
7. Then mass production starts.
8. To the fabrics/ garments backing paper/ water soluble paper is attached. The paper is
stitched if the embroidery is larger in size. For smaller embroidery backing paper is placed
with the garment in the frame itself.
9. Then fabrics/ garments are attached in the frame and placed on the machine.
10. Maximum of 9 colors can be used in one design.

40
 11. If backing paper was used then paper is torn and if water soluble paper was used then
garments are sent for washing.

Threads Used:

1. Bobbin: 18 tex
2. Embroidery: 27 tex

Threads which are used for embroidery can be:

● Poly cotton
● Rayon

● Polyester
● Poly spun
● Zari thread

All these threads can be used on all the fabrics depending upon the design and buyer
requirement.

Workforce in the Embroidery Department

Designation Work Profile

Manager Manage the work and coordinate with cutting

as well as production team to complete work

41
 within deadlines

Supervisor Manage the operators working in the

department and any issue occurring in
machines

Operator Manage the working of embroidery machines

Designer Sketch the design and digitise it to be fed on

the embroidery machine

Capacity of the machine

● Length – 7m 20cm; maximum allowable fabric being 7 cm

● Width – 120cm; maximum allowable fabric being 100 cm
● Distance between the two heads – 44cm
● Distance between two needles – 15cm
● The threads pass through 13 holes
● Embroidery speed – 650 rpm; maximum speed being 700 rpm
● Number of stitches: 1130000

Additional items used

Types of frames for different designs For small designs: Frames of size 18, 21, 12,
37 cm of diameter are used.
For big designs: 100*40 cm , 75*37 cm ,
43*37cm , 45*27 cm

Threads 27 Tex, 30 Tex , 40 Tex , 21 Tex, 18 Tex

Needles 16, 14, 11, 9, 6 Db

Water Soluble Paper Water soluble paper is also known as cold

water soluble non-woven fabric is used for
quality purposes. This fabric can be
completely dissolved at room temperature. In
embroidery as the fabric stretches, water
soluble paper is added to prevent slippage.
After the washing process it dissolves easily.
Some of the features of this paper are that it

42
 gives lace fabric embroidered effect, leaving
no residue and is environmentally friendly.

Random Foam This paper is used for garments which cannot

be washed. It is used for quality purposes
according to the fabric type. It is removed
once the embroidery is made

Purchase Department

The purchase department is responsible for the procurement of various raw materials needed
for production of garments.

43
This department is responsible for procuring all kinds of trims required for the execution of an
order on time so that the production is not delayed because of the non-availability of trims.

These trims are sourced from:

● Domestic or local markets

● Or trims may be imported

The different types of trims that this department procures is:

● Buttons
● Snap fasteners
● Sewing thread
● Embroidery thread
● Fusing material
● Zippers
● Shoulder tape
● Sewing tapes
● Wash care labels
● Size labels
● Brand labels
● Miscellaneous labels
● Price tags
● Size tags
● Size stickers
● Poly bags
● Collar Rib
● Fusing
● Elastic tapes

Process Flow:

1. The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill of Materials) for a particular style
to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process.

44
2. The costing of the trims as submitted to the buyer is done by the purchase department.
It includes both the cost involved in the production of the trims and also the price for a
unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its production. For
example, suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then Taxes of 2% +14% of
excise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the transportation charges and this all
together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is also taken into
consideration).

3. This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the
buyer based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

4. After the order has been confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the
other concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of
the trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the
merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally
followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.

5. Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is generated by the
purchasing department to the selected supplier who will supply the trims. Once the first
sample of the trims is sent by the supplier then the lab dips is done and is sent to the
buyer for approval. If the buyer approves then order for bulk trims is confirmed and given
to the supplier. But if the buyer rejects the trims then either the same supplier has to make
samples and those are again sent to the buyer for approval, or a new supplier is selected
and the same process of approval is followed.

6. After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of
them are not meeting this criterion. This function is basically done by the Accessory and
trims Store Department. Once the quantity and quality are checked the department
reports everything to the purchase department.

7. The Purchase department also keeps in track of all the quantities received inhouse timely.
The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according
to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and these
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is notbeing mentioned
then the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small

45
 quantities and PO’s have to be sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups
are being is given.

8. Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and
then the department also has to maintain the receipts and as well as the documents of
the inspections that are being carried out for those materials

Product Development Department

Product development department works on renewing current products or designing and creating
new products. This department is not buyer specific and works for all the buyers that company
caters to. The major role of the department is to get business for the company. Foundation of all
other departments, it assists in converting their thoughts into fact.

In this branch, new designs of garments are advanced in step with the approaching season and
topic or trend cautioned by way of the customer or based on their very own research/ creativity/
instinct. These samples are then offered to the buyer who in the end selects the designs for their
order. While designing the product developer should maintain in mind the feasibility alongside
creativity. First interaction of the customers is with the PD department, however in a few
instances PD is immediately done by way of the merchandising department.

There is a showroom for meetings as well as presentations for new improvement/line adoption
to buyers. Samples/mocks developed are just for style and design purpose and measurement do
not play a major role. If the buyer selects any of their style then further development will be

46
done by the PD department. Once order has been booked further follow up is taken and keeps

on communicating that the style will be the responsibility of the concerned merchandiser.

Samples Developed in this Stage are: *Different types of samples are used by different buyers*

● Proto Sample
● Reference sample
● Preproduction sample
● Resample
● TOP sample
● Testing sample
● Pilot run sample
● Size set sample
● Fit sample
● Salesman sample
● AD sample/photo shoot sample
● Catalogue sample
● Costing meeting sample

Workforce of the PD Department

Designation Work Profile

PD Merchant Coordinate with buyer and get orders, Get samples made within
deadlines, approvals from buyer on fabric, trims, etc. that goes the
style and prepare cost sheets

47
 Designer Study present fashion trends and develop designs and samples
and take approvals from buyers on the new designs

Helper Procure fabric, trims, etc. that goes in the sample and keep the
follow-up of samples at each stage.

Merchandising Department

A merchandiser is a key link between the company and the buyer. He/ she communicates with
the buyer and caters to its demand. He/she assures the quality of the merchandise and
efficiently takes decisions to increase profit. The merchandising department is located on the
ground floor of the company. The order from different buyers is taken care of by respective
merchandising teams. In Gaurav International they have different merchandising teams for
different buyers which are headed by the head merchants.

Two type of merchandising done in garment exports

1. Marketing merchandising.
2. Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising

Main function of marketing merchandising is

● Product Development
● Costing
● Ordering

Marketing merchandising is to bring orders and development of the product and it has direct
contact with the buyer.

Product merchandising

Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and end till shipment.

Roles & Responsibilities of Merchandiser

Chase for fabric/trims prior to PCD date

48
Size sets/PP/TOP samples-Monitoring and delivering

Coordinating buying agency QA Inspection

Order Confirmation Generation: An internal document should be generated by a concerned

merchandiser against PO within 24-48 hrs of order confirmation from the buyer. OC includes the
following information: Purchase Order (PO) Number, Delivery Date, Quantity, and Fabric with
tentative consumption, FOB.

Purchase Order: An external document which is issued by a buyer in the name of Richa and Co.
Exports; it is an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of the company. PO
includes the following information-: Delivery Date, Terms of sale, FOB, Currency, L/C (Letter of
Credit), Destination, Quantity, Ship mode.

Fabric Program: An internal document issued to the fabric department, for sourcing the
required fabric required for the style.

Internal Budget: It is the internal document of the company which is a deviation between the
actual costing given to the buyer and company‘s costing.

PCD Date Monitoring: PCD date should be followed by head right from the order confirmation,
production manager can refuse to take the file from concerned merchandiser if the PCD date
slides drastically and unit manager approach to management if concerned merchant tries to put
pressure on unit, but if a particular style has been taken over by unit head then the deliverance
of style in terms of quality/deliver date has to meet by unit head.

Costing: The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total
cost of a garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and
negotiate the cost of production with the buyer before he sends PO.

Workflow of Merchandising Department

49
The flow of work in the merchandising department is listed below:

● The buyer sends a tech pack containing all the details of the order including style, fabric,
trims etc. to the concerned merchant who handles that particular order.
● After receiving the tech pack, the merchandising department performs the most critical
job of costing.

50
In order to arrive at the final cost the merchant has to procure costing data from the following
departments:

● Fabric consumption from CAD and subsequently the fabric cost based on the
consumption is taken from the fabric sourcing department.
● Analyzing the cost of trims.

Once all the costing data has been gathered by the merchant, he/she will prepare the cost
sheet.

While the merchant is preparing the cost sheet, the sampling department simultaneously
develops the proto samples as per the tech pack received from the buyer.

As soon as the proto sample is ready, the merchant sends the proto sample along with the cost
sheet to the buyer for approval.

1. If the cost sheet and proto sample is not approved by the buyer then either the cost sheet
or sample or both may need to be reworked and sent back to the buyer for approval.
Otherwise the order is considered to be confirmed.

2. Once the order is confirmed the merchandising department performs the following
activities simultaneously. They are listed below:
- Obtain the PCD (Plan Cut Date) from the PPC (Production Planning and Control).
- Sourcing trims and fabric from the concerned departments.
- Booking, washing and other process capacity if required.

3. Execution of order by entering details in GIMS (ERP system used)

4. Prepare and forward the samples to buyers for approval.

5. Comments are received from the buyer, which are incorporated and fit samples are
reworked.

6. Once the approval is obtained from the buyer for the fit samples, a pre production
meeting is held with the concerned production unit.

7. After the Pre Production meeting the PPM report is released.

8. Execute the bulk order for production.

51
 9. A Production Sample is then sent to the buyer for approval. Once approved the merchant
then follows up with the production department to ensure the order is running on
schedule. All these details are also sent to the buyer to keep them updated.

10. The merchandisers also submit the required documents to the documentation
Department.

11. Once the bulk production is over, the merchant arranges garments for the buyer QA
inspection.

12. Once all the inspections are passed the order is ready for shipment.

13. The merchants also follow up on the payment terms for the garments

List of Documents

TNA (Time & Action) chart This is a schedule prepared by the

merchandisers with the assistance of the
buying house for any order that is received
which helps them keep a track on the whole
process.

MRL sheet/ BOM (Bill Of Materials) The list of all the materials required in making
a garment.

Purchase order Purchase order is a document that includes

specification of product, Product Price (FOB),
Total order quantity, washing instructions if
applicable, size break-up, packing instruction
and shipping address and some additional
information to make the instructions clearer.

Feedback from the buyer The feedback is given once the samples are
checked by the buyers; this feedback shows
the details of the changes required in the
sample sent.

Style track sheet This is the sheet which the merchandisers

make to keep the track of the order.

52
Costing of Garment

A cost sheet includes: ● Buyer‘s Name

● Quantity
● Style
● Budget
● Garment
● Fabric description

Total cost fabric includes: ● Greige fabric cost

● Finishing
● Job-Process
● Freight
● Cartage
● Average consumption
● Total fabric consumption

Accessories cost includes: ● Main label

● Wash care label
● Poly bags
● Stitching threads
● Tags
● Beads, sequins, elastic
● Cartoons

Total cost of a garment: Fabric cost

Fabrication
Accessories cost
Dyeing
Embroidery
CM (cost of manufacturing)
Finishing
Packaging

Merchandising File Includes:

1. Order confirmation
2. Purchase order
3. 1st lab dip/comment
4. 2nd lab dip/comment

53
 5. Approved colour standard
6. Important communications
7. Final GSS and BOM received
8. 1st approval/comments
9. Revised GSS
10. 2nd approval/comments
11. Revised GSS
12. Approved fit and comment
13. Size set samples
14. Sealer/comments
15. PP samples
16. Initial bulk against approved lab dip
17. Lot comment and approved
18. Trim
19. Approved trim card
20. Costing
21. Budget

First of Bulk Working

As soon as the order gets confirmed, order is placed to the textile mill for fabric. During the
processing of the fabric in the textile mill a roll of about 30-40 m is received in the fabric store to
check its width and other parameters such as shrinkage.

Following are the steps followed for FOB working:

2-5 meters shall be reserved for Cutting Department/CAD

2-5 meters will be reserved for Lab for FPT/GPT & shrinkage test

Rest shall be issued to merchant/sampling

As soon as the ―Thaan comes from the mill, it should be issued on same day to concerning
Merchant for sampling and approvals. Same day it shall be issued to Lab for FPT/GPT and
shrinkage testing.

54
Within 2 days the sampling process should be finished and all approvals should be taken from
the buyer/buying house as soon as possible. There are fixed days for approval from the buying
house. For example, Triburg does its approval for ANN INC on Tuesday and Friday only.

Then concerning merchant should go to cutting department with all specs, ratio, pattern marker,
MI average and sit with cutting master in CAD and finalize the cutting average and then the cutting
average will be sent to the merchant for the decision whether more order has to be taken or
extra fabric order in the mill should be stopped or more fabric has to be ordered.

Whatever the final decision of the merchant is, accordingly fabric program will be prepared by
the cutting department and will be given to the fabric store, signed by the merchant, cutting
master and the respective authority

Workforce of Merchandising Department

Designation Work Profile

Senior Merchant Coordinate with buyers and take approvals

for samples

Assistant Merchant Get samples made on time, explain sampling

and pattern master about the buyer’s
requirement and coordinate with production
team as well

Helper Procure fabric, trims, etc. that goes in the

sample and keep the follow-up of samples at
each stage

55
Sampling Department

It is the aim of the sampling department to produce each garment as an exact representation of
the product design. Therefore it is important to follow the specification sheet and sketch/ sample
given by the buyer. The merchandising team for the particular buyer coordinates the sample
development process. The samples are developed on the basis of the details provided by the
merchandiser to the Head of the Sampling section. Here, the samples are developed at various
stages e.g. Fit Sample, Pre Production sample etc. according to the buyer’s requirements, the
types of samples are decided. All the buyers and all the styles do not require the same types and
same number of samples.

Functions of Sampling Department

● To ensure pattern perfection in the very first time and have minimum alterations due to
human errors.
● To make the sample garments as per the size and requirement for the approval in the
first and second time only.
● To make samples on time and meet the daily target.

56
 ● To maintain the sampling comments record and make the changes on time.

The Sampling Department had a quality department for maintaining the quality and avoiding
more no. of fits during sampling procedures. It includes:

● Line QC
● Roving QC
● Table QC
● Floor QA
● Supervisor

Sampling Departments takes number of initiatives to maintain floor safety like:

● Uses of yellow and red flags

● Proper ventilation
● Safety instructions in case of fire or man-made disaster

Working Of the Sampling Department

1. Garment specification sheet(GSS) is obtained by the merchandiser

2. The details of dimensions are studied and patterns are made accordingly by the pattern
master.

3. Marker is made for costing (for calculating fabric and trims consumption)

4. The following details are written on the Pattern: Date, Style No., Buyer

5. The proto sample is prepared by cutting the fabric as per base sample, and stitching the
garment with available fabric.

6. Proto is sent to the buyer through the merchandising department for approval.

7. It is tried on a model by the buyer and corrections and comments are sent.

8. Fit sample is made and changes asked in the proto sample are incorporated in it and
sent to the buyer.

9. 2nd fit sample is also sometimes made when asked by buyer for corrections in fitting of
the garment

57
 10. After getting approval from merchandising, a size set is prepared for all the sizes and
colours in the Tech-Pack and sent to the buyer to present grading of the garments.

11. The graded patterns are finalized on the basis of the buyer comments and then sent to
the CAD department.

12. Sampling department also makes a range of garments according to the designs prepared
by the design team for presenting it to different buyers to get orders on them.

Sample Meeting

Sample meeting is held to review all samples at the initial stage before submitting it forapproval.
Present at each meeting is the production manager, garment technician, QC executive,
merchandiser, sampling incharge. The sample is viewed for the technical feasibility, making
improvements to quality/ productivity, etc.

Types of Samples

Depending on the enquiries, the samples prepared are sent to the buyer for approval. After the
sample approval, the bulk production activity is taken.

Step No. Sample Duration Quantity Description

1. Proto Sent within 7 days 1-2 Can be made with the

sample/Dummy after the tech alternative fabric and
fit pack is received trims.

2. Fit Sample 10 days 3 Exact quality of fabric is

samples(1-buye used but trims & print
r;1- buying color can be used as
house/liaison substitute, but to be
office; mentioned on the tag.
1-counter)

3. Size Set Sample 2-3 days 1 for each size Exact fabric/trims are
used

4. PP Sample 10 days 4 Exact fabric/trims are

samples(1-buye used
r;1- buying
house/liaison
office;

58
 2-counter)

5. Re-SMS Sample 10 days Depends on A showroom sample

buyer made to increase the
demand among
customers

6. TOP Sample 6-7 days 3 Best pieces are picked

samples(1-buye from the production
r;1- buying line. This becomes the
house/liaison reference sample for
office; production and quality
1-counter) after approval

Workforce in the Sampling Department

Designation Work Profile

Sampling Head Follows up with the department regarding various samples and
looks after any requirements.

Senior Pattern Master Coordinate with merchant about styles and make base size
patterns

Assistant Pattern Master Make patterns and alterations if suggested

Helper Keep the track of requirement in sampling room and fulfill it

Sampling Tailors Making samples

Sampling QA Check the quality of the samples and crosscheck with techpack.

Sampling Pressmen Pressing the samples as per the requirement

Pattern Making During the Sampling Stage

Pattern making computerized: 4 people

Marker making: 2 people

The manual markers are further digitized and soft copy is then graded and printed.

59
Tukadesign and Tukamark are used for pattern and marker making in the sampling department.

Firstly patterns are made, they are graded and then markers are made. A number of things are
considered while making patterns:

1. Type of fabric
2. Solids, stripes or prints. The nap direction depends on the surface design and the type of
fabric.
3. If there are stripes then block cutting has to be done.
4. In checks horizontal and vertical stripes have to be matched.
5. Shrinkage of every roll is calculated and average shrinkage is added in the patterns.

Working of the QA of the Sampling Room

1. Inspection is done of the cut fabric, sewed garment and the garment after washing for
any defects by the QA.

2. Garments are checked visually for label placement, any broken, damaged or uneven
stitch, placement of all garment parts like buttons pocket flaps etc., holes, stains, balance
and overall look.

3. Measurements of the garment are also checked before and after wash to check the
difference between what was required and what has been obtained.

4. After inspecting the washed garment, a specification sheet is made having measurements
of the garment sewed as compared to the measurements which were required.

Machine Details in Sampling Department

In Gaurav International, Sewing lines are divided according to buyer-wise. On average the target
is to produce 1-2 pieces/tailor/shift. There are a total of 5 lines in the sampling department, and
on two floors.

Sl No. Machine Make Total

1. SNLS Brother 17

2. SNLS JUKI 56

60
 3. DNLS JUKI 4

4. DNLS Pegasus 3

5. 3 TH O/L Brother 3

6. 5 TH O/L JUKI 3

7. KANSAI Typical 2

8. BARTACK Peagsus 1

9. CHAIN STITCH Brother 3

10. EMBROIDERY Singer 9

Total: 92

Production Planning And Control

The basic process includes the following stages:

● Order clarity meeting with marketing team

● Receive the order

61
 ● Plan to check if there is available capacity in sewing to achieve the delivery date
required
● Plan to check the available capacity in non-sewing areas (cut, embroidery; print, wash
and pack)
● Plan to check sufficient lead time to order and receive fabric, trims, approve sample,
carry out lab tests
● Confirm delivery date to customer and reserve capacity
● Plan Cut Date (PCD) follow-up
● Communicate plan to sampling, cutting, sewing and finishing
● Monitor progress against plan and doing the follow-up

Functions

● Making a calendar of production by booking the capacity as per order quantity.

● Keeping a track on the per day production to check if it is meeting the targets or not.
● Arrange balance requirements based on thread and fabric consumption.
● Preparation of capacity statements everyday and sent to GM, VP, CEO, FM.

The PPC department is centralised for all the units and resides in unit 193. There are basically
two parts to planning- Production control and Production planning.

The major purpose of planning is to provide sufficient lead time for production processes to
execute the order with desired quality and timely delivery.

It is necessary to avoid problems such as bottlenecks, unnecessary style changes, lack of

prioritization and unclear order status which occur due to unplanned production. This results in
loss of customer confidence and future orders. The solution was to install a systematic and
detailed approach to production planning.

Duties of a PPC Manager:

1. Communicate with merchandisers to establish requirements for the current and next
season.
2. Respond when changes need to be made as a result of changes in the customer
demand.
3. Follow up with the fabric and merchandising team for better order execution.

62
 4. He is required to do an approximate long term capacity planning of up to 6 months
ahead.
5. Alongside, the short term planning needs to be very detailed.
6. Production control

Process Flow

Activities Involved

1. Job Or Task Scheduling

Preparation of time and action calendar for each order from order receiving to shipment
is the primary task to be done. This contains a list of tasks to be processed for all the
styles. Against each task the planner has to mention the starting date and deadline of the
task. Name of the person responsible for the job is also listed.

2. Material Resource Planning

Preparation of material requirement sheet according to the sample product and buyer

63
 specification sheet is the next phase. The consumption of material (fabric, trims, buttons,
and thread) is calculated and the cost is estimated.

3. Loading Production
The planner has to decide which style needs to be loaded in the production line and how
much quantity to be loaded.

4. Process Selection And Planning

The processes needed to complete an order vary from style to style. According to the
order requirement, the PPC department selects the orders. Sometimes the extra
processes are eliminated to reduce cost of production.

5. Facility Location
Since, the company has multiple factories for production, it is necessary to decide which
facility will be the most suitable for the arriving orders. Sometimes, in case of capacity
shortage the production of an order is divided into two factories.

6. Estimating Quality And Cost Of Production

Planner estimates daily production according to the styles work content. With the
estimated production figure, production runs and manpower involvement planner also
estimates production cost per piece.

7. Capacity Planning
PPC department plays a major role during order
booking. They decide how much order they should
accept according to their production capacity.
Allocation of total capacity or deciding how much
capacity to be used for an order out of total factory
capacity is necessary. It is important to be regularly
updated with the current production capacity of the
unit to avoid confusion.

8. Line Planning
A detailed line plan should be prepared with thedaily
production target for the respective line. Mostly, the
line planning is done after discussing with the
production team and industrial engineers.

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 9. Follow Up And Execution
Whatever plan is made is executed by the PPC department. It is necessary to keep a close
look whether everything is processed according to the plan. Chasing other department
heads on a daily basis to keep the plan on track is done by the planner. Theyupdate order-
wise completed tasks on the time and action calendar. If some action will be delayed, they
expedite and create an alarm to avoid the delay

Capacity Calculations

1. Working hours per day = 8 hours

2. 45 operators per line

3. Factory running time = 480 minutes per day

4. Absenteeism = 10%

5. Efficiency consideration

6. Lead time is the same taken from PCD to x-factory (shipment) date.

7. Available minutes per day per line: = (Factory running time) * (Number of operators in
the line) * (100 - Absenteeism) % * (Blocked Efficiency %)

8. Batch setting time or Change over time = 8 to 12 hours

9. Production planning starts from planning the PCD - Proposed Cut date.

10. The PCD is proposed at least 5 days before batch setting starts.

11. Generally 1 day is kept for batch setting for the style.

12. Within 4 days of introduction of a new style in particular line, the production team had
to meet the average production target.

13. Always the 5th day of production is taken as the peak production day

14. The production (sewing) should be accomplished at least 4 to 5 days before x- factory

15. Double line concept: Two lines are merged for a large order so as to reduce the number
of helpers and non-skilled operators. And thus increase productivity.

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Planning Efficiency

● The planning is done efficiently so that the PCD date is met and the shipment is done on
time. In case the production target is not being met, the following options are called for:
○ Generally the slide in covered up in the next day‘s production
○ X-factory extension is requested from the buyer.
○ Overtime or working on holidays by the operators
○ Out-sourcing from outside unit, when the slide is beyond the capacity of the unit

PPC needs to keep a check on:

1. Daily production
2. Utilization of full capacity
3. One order affecting next order
due to delay, this needs to be
highlighted

Reverse Planning is done for the

Shipment activities while forward
planning is done for the pre-production
activities.

● Pre-production Time:-7-10 days

● Trim Order Time: - 5-7 days

● Production Time: - 30 days

● Planning revision and line

planning is done every 2 months.

● Daily meeting is conducted by

the Planning Department,
Cutting Department, Production
Manager and the Finishing In-
charge

Documents

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 1. Batch plan

2. Operation bulletin- from IED for planning the target production per day

3. PO sheet- for referring to the x-factory date

4. Fabric flow (DC)

5. Trims flow (DC)

6. Daily production reports- from the sewing floor

Industrial Engineering Department (IED)

As the order is procured, the sample garment is first handed over to the IED to calculate the
thread consumption and trim consumption.

As the orders are confirmed, a copy of purchase order is sent to the IED and IED prepares an
operation bulletin. Based on the operation bulletin, the IED works out the SAM values and plans
the line on 50% efficiency. Depending on the SAM values the IED allot a number of operators to
each operation. The IED then sends the requirements of operators, machines and folders to the
PPC department that are required at 50% efficiency to produce 1000 pieces per day.

After the operation bulletin sheets are ready the IED generates a list of machines, folders and
guides required and sends it to the maintenance department. Then they prepare the line layout
in such a manner that the flow of materials in the line is unidirectional.

Besides this the IED performs the important task of maintaining the skill inventory which is
updated every month; keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the daily WIP report
and daily production report which is sent to the PPC department; takes care of the work methods
that are being used on the floor; plans and balance the line on a daily basis keeping the
absenteeism and other factors in consideration.

The different functions of the IED are as follows:

● The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the
production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and
they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning
department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or not.

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 ● The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, the productivity of the given style for
the initial costing and the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details
to the merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entire costing
criteria depends on these aspects. They give the merchants suggestions regarding the
reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the
method of doing it.

● The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which
includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment
and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that have to be
carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and
approval

● Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its
location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which
the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be
carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the
Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.

● Analyzing manpower-This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their
skill level.

Spreading And Cutting

The first stage in the manufacturing of garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary
patterns shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional
garments. Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consist
of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the
sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments are
present on a printed paper marker placed on top of the lay.There are two continuous fusing
machines.

Goals of the Department

● To ensure no cut panels are rejected by QC or Sewing section due to cutting quality.
● To strive for zero complaints from internal customers in all aspects of cutting quality.
● To ensure zero production loss in sewing due to shortage of cut material.
● To ensure on time delivery of cut parts to internal customers as per their requirement.

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 ● To work towards optimizing get higher efficiency, productivity at lower cost and improve
fabric utilization.

Process Flow

Cutting department is subdivided into four sections-

● CAD
● Spreading
● Cutting
● Ticketing and Bundling

CAD Department

● The patterns are made in the sampling department’s CAD room. Here one person is in
incharge. The functions of the cutting room CAD department are:

● Receiving the patterns made by the pattern master of the PO confirmed by the
merchandiser.

● Making the Mini Markers for the patterns.

● Calculating the fabric consumption per garment according to the fabric width received
and informing the same to the sourcing department, merchandising department.

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 ● Incorporating the shrinkage allowances in the patterns or the lay length

● Adding the length wise allowance in the lay length for the losses incorporated while
trimming by the end cutter or by the scissor in case of stripes fabric. 4% wastage is added
to suffice the fabric wastage at the edges.

● Making the spreading and the cutting plan and making markers according to that.

● Printing the marker on the plotter. The fabric is layed and cut according to the plan made
and the markers printed.

● CAD markers are set as per ratio required and width attained.

● All component parts of the garment are laid parallel to the warp (length) of fabric unless
style warrants others positioning of parts.

CAD Room Equipment

Machine Brand Model Quantity

Plotter Lectra IEEE 1394 2

Marker planning

Marker planning is done by the CAD incharge. This plan is then given to the spreading and cutting
incharge. He then further plans the plan date wise program of the cutting department and gets
it by the fabric and cutting head.

MARKER PLANNER

Buyer:

Date:

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Style:

Lot no:

Fabric: Order:

Qty:

Sampling Avg: Cuttable:

Width:

Colour:

Shrinkage:

Size: XS S M L XL Total

Order Qty:

Ratio:

No. of Marker:

Lays: Ply: Metre:

Width Length:

Lay No. 1 Ratio:

Lay No. 2 Ratio:

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Spreading

The spreading was done manually. There are 7 spreading tables. There was one automatic
spreader also but it was out of service.

Manpower in Spreading Room

● Layerman: 7
● Helpers: 1

Spreading Process

The master receives a PO which has all the specifications about a particular style. These
specifications include the style number and the quantity. The master and the CAD incharge make
the cut order plan and get it approved by the higher authorities.

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The cut order plan/marker plan specifies the number of layers which have to be laid for a
particular size & colour.

From this cut order plan separate job cards are created for the workers which have the
following format:

Spreading and Cutting Report

Vendor/Factory Country of Origin

Agent/Buyer Description

Style Fabric Content

PO# Order Quantity

Fabric Swatch Color Ref. Fabric Shrinkage QC:

Diameter/
Width- Order

Fabric
Diameter/
Width- Actual

Fabric
Consumption

Cut Marker Fabric Ply Size Ratio Total

Number Length Spread Height
Length

Roll No.

Lot No.: Lay Quantity

Bundle Number: Piece

Number

Roll

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 Quantity

Actual
Fabric
Quantity
Used

Balance
Fabric
Quantity

Ply Height

Spreading Personnel Time Started Cutting Personnel who Time Started

who spread this lay spread this lay
Time Time
Finished Finished

Time Taken Time Taken

Date Spread: Date Cut:

Thus through the use of this job card all the worker’s jobs can be monitored very easily.

Spreading Procedure

The spreading was done manually. After laying a ply the fabric was torn with the hand along the
weft direction. The purpose of doing so was to avoid bowing in the fabric.

The steps of spreading were as follows:

1. The cutting masters measures the required lay length and mark it on the table

2. The workers lay down the brown paper (Gerber paper) of required length + 5 cm.

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 3. If the fabric is in the roll form then the roll is put onto the rod in front of the spreading
table. If the roll is in the flat folded (than) form then it is kept in trolleys and placed in
front of the table. Each cut piece of the fabric is then taken out and layed.

4. Then the first layer of fabric is layed. Laying of the first layer takes maximum time, further
laying is faster.

5. After every 20 plies the laying master puts a ticket on the fabric. This makes counting the
number of plies easier.

6. Fabric is torn after laying a ply.

7. Fabric is aligned from one side of the width.

8. Then the marker is placed on the top of the lay.

Laying of fusing material

One side of the last table is kept for spreading of fusing material. The lay length and height of the
fusing material is generally kept low to avoid melting and sticking of the material onto the layers.
End cutter is used for cutting the plies of fusing fabric.

Checks and stripes

For checks and stripes after laying on the top of the fabric they were putting t pins, so that the
fabric doesn’t shift while cutting. The lay length of the check fabric is not increased more than 3
mtrs. The numbers of plies are also kept below 150 plies. Block cutting is also preferred in case
of checks or stripes for greater accuracy.

Embroidered fabric

When fabric parts have to be embroidered then blocks are cut and sent for embroidery. These
blocks are then recut according to the pattern in the sewing department only. The cutting is done
single by single piece. The method they opted for included making a rough pattern on the top of
the table which they take as a reference for the block cutting.

Important Points which are followed:

● All component parts of a garment are laid in one general area and are shade controlled.
● Each layer edge is checked for unacceptable skew / torque.

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 ● All plaids, horizontal stripes and vertical stripes are matched as per the requirement of
Buyer.
● Lightweight fabrics are relaxed and made tension free to prevent problems in stitching.
● Any block or placement print is cut individually to ensure correct print appearance on
the garment.

Before the cutting starts QA makes a report which contains the following things: -

Lay Inspection

Type of Defects M/c Blade Length Height Selvedge Cut Tension Alignment

Ok/Not

Ok

Corrective

Action

As cutting master cuts the 1st pattern QA checks the quality of upper most part, middle part
and the lower part for the pattern to check the similarity of cutting if there is difference in the
cut parts then the following measures had taken place: -

● Sharpness of blade
● Proper placing of marker
● Proper placing of marker paper

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77
Cutting

Cutting Process flow

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Manpower in Cutting Department

Designation Manpower

Cutting incharge 1

Cutting Master 5

Cutting Person 4

Helpers 8

QA 1

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 QC 3
Cutting Equipment

Machine Make Model Quantity

Straight knife Eastman (8”) 5

Fusing machine Mayer RPSS A-1000 3

Automatic Cutter Gerber GT-7250 1

Band knife machine Westema TEX knife 492 2

Spreading machine Gerber SY 101 0

Spreading table 7

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Manual Cutting

There are two tables on which fabric is spread and cut manually. When orders are more and a
single Gerber cutter is not enough then only a manual cutting method is used. There are 5 straight
knives for manual cutting.

● Spreading master keeps spreading the lays at the end and shifts them towards the
centre.
● There are 5 straight knives. Four are used and one kept for reserve.
● Cutting person either cuts the complete garment parts or cuts the blocks which are
further cut on the band knife machine.
● The cut parts then move to the ticketing and bundling table.

Cutting by Gerber Cutter

● There are two tables on which a Gerber cutter can work. It is shifted between these two
tables.
● Fabric is spread at one end of the
table.
● It is pushed forward on the table and
spread until the next lay starts.
● Then it is pulled by the brown paper
near the end at which the cutter is
installed.
● Marker is pasted on the lay by tapes.

The cutting time by Gerber cutter varies

between 10-15 mins depending upon the lay
length which is generally used in the
company.

Cut Goods Inspection

To control the quality of the cut pieces for

bulk production the following inspection
systems have been installed:

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 Marker checking:

Cutting supervisor checks all the markers issued to the cutting department and if the marker is
found to have missing or incorrectly placed pieces then it is informed to the CAD incharge.

Table inspection: A table inspection is performed during the cutting process. Every cut block is
inspected with the production pattern boards. From the cut blocks the last and the middle pieces
are checked. Layers are flagged for defects and the cut panel containing those defects arethen
replaced.

Cutting Audit Report

The format of the cutting audit report is as follows:

DATE:

S. No. Style Lot Lay Cutting Size No. of Part Variation Notche Cutting Remarks
No. No. No. No. Comp. Audited with s Shape
Pattern

1 Upper

2 Middle

3 Lower

QA Head Signature QC Signature

Cutting master signature

After inspection if fusing parts are there, they are sent to the fusing machine. Fusing machine is
set as per the buyer's test report. There is a report provided by the buyer which contains test
reports and also the temperature, pressure, time is also provided for the fusing process. When
the fusing machine starts they check the quality of the fusing. For the quality purpose three times
in a day, the quality auditor checks the test sample.

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 Fusing
Machine Maintenance

The QC checks the machine twice daily. Thermos paper is used to identify the actual heat given
from the fusing press. This information is compared to the stated heat on the machine dial.
Therefore any difference between the two is noticed. Both readings are recorded in the fusing
machine test logbook for future references. If it is evident that the machine is not working
properly, then it is informed to the maintenance manager.

Fusing Temperature Test Report

Style Buyer Fusing Required Standard Check Test Value Thermo Remarks
No. Time Paper

Temp Pressure Time Temp Pressure Time

First
Half

Style Buyer Fusing Required Standard Check Test Value Thermo Remarks
No. Time Paper

Temp Pressure Time Temp Pressure Time

Second
Half

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Fusible components check for pattern

Collar Band Cuff Front Placket Fly Placket

QA Head Signature QC Signature Dept. HeadSignature

Bundling and Ticketing

The cut pieces are inspected by the QC and the QA for occurrence of any major defect. A random
inspection of pieces is done by them.

Ticketing:

As soon as the cut pieces are checked, they are numbered. Numbering is done by machine.
Numbering is done in such a manner that all pieces of one particular garment have done the
same number.

Bundling:

All the pieces cut in a lay for one pattern part are bundled as one. These are then further sorted
in the sewing department.

While ticketing and bundling any defects found are reported to the quality incharge and the piece
depending upon severity of the defect is replaced.

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Sewing Department

The sewing section receives the input from the cutting section to add value to the cut panels to
convert them to garments. This section comprises people working towards achieving the
specified quality of garments at the prescribed time and quantity.

Goals for Sewing Department

● To ensure zero complaints from customers relating to sewing quality.

● To achieve daily production as planned.

● To ensure on time dispatch of defect free goods to internal customers.

● To work towards reducing work in process stock.

● To work towards reduction in re-cut percentage due to sewing quality.

● To work towards an increase in production per associate.

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● To work towards optimizing the processes to get higher efficiency, productivity and to
meet targeted sewing cost. Sewing floor follows standard operating procedure. All the
concerned SOP’S are displayed on the start of sewing line, these SOPS are of various types:

86
 ● Production SOP
● SOP for QA Dep’t at production stage.
● SOP to check the needle point
● SOP to be followed for different
vendors.

All the necessary information is displayed on a

board in the starting of a sewing line for various
styles. These are:

● Trim card
● Operation Breakdown
● Measurement Sheet
● How to measure/Inspect guide
● P.D tech pack
● Machine aids
● Fabric details
● Sample evaluation report
● Size set comments
● List of responsible persons on sewing floor
● Top five defective operations for various styles running in a line.

List of machines and tables on the sewing floor are

● 11 pressing table

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 ● Feeding table at the start of each line
● And 48 sewing machines in each line.

Type of production system is Bundle system, each bundle consists of 25 units

Total Number of Lines -10 (48 sewing machine in each line)

Daily output per line depends on the style (400-500)

When new style is introduced line efficiency on

● Day 1- 20%
● Day 2- 30%
● Day 3- 40%
● Day 4- 55%

Operators are paid on a monthly basis.

● Sewing operator- Rs 12000

● Line QC- Rs 16,500
● Floor In charge – Rs 24,000

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Process Flow of the Sewing Department

● The production file with the sealer sample is obtained.

● Receive Cut panels from the cutting department and verify against the delivery note.
● Panels are stored style wise / colour wise /size wise with identification in production
floor fabric and accessory store.
● Trims are obtained from the accessory store and stored in production floor fabric and
accessory store.
● Entry is made in the register regarding total quantity of trims to be received, trims
received at present and the balance.
● The cut pieces and the trims received are updated in the ERP software on a daily basis.
● Pre production meeting(production head, quality incharge, floor incharge, line
supervisor, QC, QA)
● Pattern auditing
● Line plan is made by the Floor in charge and instructed to the supervisor.
● Cut panels are issued to the lines according to the Line plan.

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 ● Line is set and machines and attachments are added or removed from the line as per
requirement.
● Pilot run
● Lotting: In lotting every 10 piece lot is tied and a label is attached to the whole bundle
along with string.
● Putting the cut fabric into line.
● Garment is sewed.
● Line balancing is done regularly.
● Daily production report is generated every day.
● After sewing, garments are handed over to the finishing department.
● A log of garments issued to the finishing department is maintained.
● The Order completion report is prepared after the completion of the order.

Production Monitoring

1. The attendance is counted everyday line wise for operators and helpers and if in any line
a greater number is absent then some operators/helpers are shifted from another line to
that line.

2. Hourly production reports are maintained for every operation. Bundle wise number of
pieces made every hour is registered.

3. Notify the hourly production operation wise to the supervisor, floor incharge and
assistant production manager.

4. Daily production for every line is maintained on a board in the production department
office.

5. The report of on-date batch loading, production and balance production is maintained on
the ERP.

6. All the machines are tested every day for thread tension, oiling and its proper functioning
and are registered. The daily update sheet is hung on every machine for updates.

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In-line quality check is maintained at each level and the same are followed religiously with
regard to core aspects of stitching:

● Needles
● Threads
● Seams

Inspection Procedure

Sewing Quality Inspection

1. The Preproduction Meeting-

Before starting production, a pre-production meeting

is organized in the presence of buyer QC,
merchandiser, vendor nominated QC, vendor
merchant, production manager, factory manager, IED
executives, planning head and quality manager
regarding discussion of line planning, operational
breakdown, shipment date, style details explanation
and quality aspects for the particular style. Other
considerations like fabric inhouse, material in-house,
washing approval, packing approval (colour- wise,
ratio-wise assortment plan) and test reports are also
made.

After this meeting one report is generated called PP

Meeting comments. This report consists of following
details: -

● Fabric
○ Shade wise checking
○ Percentage of shrinkage testing before
bulk production
○ Cutting according to shade approval,
and same should be followed till packaging
○ Fabric inspection parameters

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 ● Pattern
○ Patterns to be issued shrinkage wise
○ Shrinkage grouping based on shrinkage percentage (+1 to -1 cm)
● Cutting
○ Notch details
○ Pattern approval and inspection before bulk cutting
○ Avoiding of strike through and gum marks
○ Shrinkage wise colour stickers
○ Auditing as per 1.5 AQL
○ Light colours to be moved in poly bags to avoid stains
● Trims
○ Main label attachment and checking
○ Wash care label position
● Machine settings
○ Needle specification and size
○ Changing time for needle, O/L blades, attachments to be made and other
machine details
● Stitching
○ Top and bottom SPI
○ O/L specifications
○ Heming specifications
○ Other particular stitches to be considered separately
● Critical check point
● Washing
○ Washing approval

2. Cut Panel Inspection- When the cut blocks are ready for production then again they are
inspected. A QC is responsible for inspecting 5% of the consignment covering all sizes and
colour. The inspection is carried out to compare all the cut panels with the pattern boards.

Discrepancies if any are identified before production. The rejections are determined by
the QA manager after reviewing the cut panel inspection report. All panels above

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 tolerance are highlighted and the total rejection percentage can be calculated. If the
rejection is more than 3% then the QA manager decides if 100% inspection is necessary.

3. In Line Quality Control System- All the inline QC’s are trained to carry out in line
inspection in their respective lines on a continuous basis with an aim of identifying quality
problems at source and rectifying them. The QA manager will define the quality
requirement of each style and each operation at the pre production sample stage. A
sample piece made by the operator which is approved by the QA manager is displayed at
each machine for continuous reference.

The actual sealed sample given from the production R&D room is displayed at the front
of the line for reference purpose. Once the standard has been set all in line QC’s will follow
the same inspection rules.

QC performs 100% inspection. Small defects are corrected by the respective operator who has
performed the operation. The type defects occurring are noted in a report and the number of
pieces having the similar defects is also mentioned in the report. Thus the type of defect
occurring maximum in the garments gets highlighted. This helps the QC to focus more on the
operations that cause problems on the recurring basis. At the end of the day comparison is made
on in line defect percentage from operator to operator.

Sewing End Line Inspection

For end line inspection there are 2 QC on every line.

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 ● 1st QC inspects all the aspects of all garments, colour matching, conformity to shape,
workmanship, any damages, broken or uneven stitches etc.

● 2nd QC measures the garments and checks according to the size specification.

Garments found with damages are recorded in the end-line inspection report and it is given to
the operator who had stitched the damaged part of the garment for alteration. The operations
or operators which are found to be giving maximum damaged garments are noted down and
solutions are found out specific to that problem. The production assistant and the quality
assistant monitor the garments being produced and track the problems in the line for faster
production as per the required quality.

For every style five critical defects are identified for end line inspection.

Richa and co. follows AQL level 2.5 for all the orders.

Inspection is carried out in three stages:

● In line
● Mid line
● End line

At the end line 4 garments per hr are inspected on a dummy randomly.

And 4 garments are measured randomly per hour and records are maintained in the
measurement report.

Different types of reports are maintained manually for each line these are:

● Dummy check Report

● Needle Report
● Before Wash and after Wash Report
● Measurement report
● Quality control and inspection report

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Defects to be Checked

95
Sewing Room Layout

There are 10 lines in the production department: 5 lines on 2rd floor and 5 lines on 3th floor. 6
lines have 48 machines on an average and 4 lines have 45 machines.

The sewing area of the floor is divided amongst the sewing operators sitting back to back in the
conventional way. There is a centre table and two operators sit on either side of it. Next two sit
facing their back to the previous operator.

Manpower in the sewing department

Designation Strength

Production Manager - Mr. Rajesh Choudhary 1

Industrial engineer (Mr. Manoj) 1

2nd Floor Sewing

Floor manager 1

Supervisor (1 for each line) 5

QC (1 for each line) 5

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 Quality checkpoints (2 for each line) 10

Record keeper 6

Tailors 240

Floor QA 5

Helpers 40

3rd Floor Sewing

Floor manager 1

Supervisor (1 for each line) 5

QC (1 for each line) 5

Quality checkpoints (2 for each line) 10

Record keeper 6

Tailors 220

Floor QA 5

Helpers 40

Sewing Room Equipment

SEWING M/C Stitch type Model No.of M/C Make / Model No.of M/C
JUKI -
SNLS Ordinary 301 DDL-5530 190 Brother 88
JUKI -
SNLS With UBT 301 DDL-9004-5 135 Brother 90
JUKI-
DNLS Ordinary 316 LH-3168 35 Brother 3
DNLS UBT 316 Juki 22

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 JUKI -
ZIGZAG 304 and 404 LZ2290ASS-7 36
JUKI -
SNCS 401 MH-380 4

DNCS 406 Juki 3

JUKI - F/A
Feed Off the Arm MS 1261 22
301
SN Edge Cutter Lockstitch Juki 54 Brother 1
SIRUBA -
3Th. O/l 504 KM-757 9 Brother 30
PEGASUS -
5TH. O/L 516 M732-3 42 Brother 21
YAMATO -
VG3511156s
Flat Lock 407 18f 6

Button Hole/Attaching

A separate area is earmarked for button holing, button attaching, eyelet making and bartacking.
After getting sewed according to the requirement, buttons are attached either before or after
washing. There is an incharge of this department who translates the requirements of bartacks or
buttons as given in the PO to the operators, keeping a log of pieces received, finished and
dispatched. He also is responsible for quality issues and giving solutions to problems being faced.

Machines in buttonholing/attaching department

Machine Make Model Quantity

Button attaching Brother BE 438 D 4

Eyelet Reece S100 4

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 Bartacking m/c Brother KE 430 D 1

Bartacking m/c Juki LK 1900 ASS 4

Button holing m/c Brother HE 800A 2 8

Button attaching Juki LK 1093 ASS 5

Maintenance Department

This department is responsible for the following:

● The R&D, IED and maintenance department work together for deciding the machinery,
type of pressure foot and attachments that will be used for new order in the line.

● Maintain machines throughout by carrying out Preventive Maintenance and scheduled

maintenance.

● Reducing of machine down time to meet timely shipment

● Maintenance of all the machines and machine parts.

● Buying of new needles, machine parts, attachments, pressure foot.

● Maintaining broken needle control log

● Registers are maintained for broken needles and new needles are issued only after
returning all the pieces of the broken needle. If the small pieces are not found then the
garments being run on that machine are passed through a needle detecting machine.

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Format of the Broken Needle Control Log

Purchase Requisition

For machine parts purchase requisition is given to the main store department.

Quality Log Sheet

The sewing machines are checked every morning for certain parameters and a log of it is
maintained. The log is placed on every machine itself.

Manpower in the Machine Maintenance Department

Assistant M/C Mechanic: 3

Mechanic: 4

Record Keeper: 2

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 Sr. Technical Manager: 2

Technical Manager: 1
Washing Department

Process Flow

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Types of washing machines

1. Production Garment Washing m/c (Vertostar Ramsons RVW-200 Steam)

a. Use - Washing the garments manufactured as per the buyer requirements

b. Capacity - 200 kg

c. No of m/c – 2

d. No of inlet pipes:

i. Air

ii. Hot water

iii. Cold water

iv. Steam

e. Air Pressure: 4-8 bar

f. Steam Pressure: 5-7 bar

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 g. Motor: 960 rpm

h. 15 HP (double that of RVW100)

i. Types of washes done : Normal wash, Softener wash

2. Production Garment Washing m/c (Vertostar Ramsons RVW-100 Steam)

a. Use - Washing the garments manufactured as per the buyer requirements

b. Capacity - 100 kg

c. No of m/c – 1

d. No of inlet pipes:

i. Air

ii. Hot water

iii. Cold water

iv. Steam

e. Air Pressure: 4-8 bar

f. Steam Pressure: 5-7 bar

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 g. Motor: 960 rpm

h. 7.5 HP (half of RVW200)

i. Types of washes done : Normal wash, Softener wash

3. Sample Garment Washing m/c (Vertostar Ramsons RHW-15)

a. Use - Washing the Sampling garments as per the buyer requirements

b. Capacity - 15 kg

c. No of m/c – 1

d. Machine volume: lbh (1120X1200x1050)

e. Machine weight: 300 kg

f. Type of heating: Dual

g. Types of washes done : Normal wash, Softener wash

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4. Hydro machine (Vertostar Ramsons Hydro machine RH-50)

a. Use - After washing the garments as per the buyer requirements, water is
soaked using this machine

b. Capacity - 50 kg

c. No of m/c – 2

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5. Tumble Dryer Machine (Vertostar Ramsons RTD150)

a. Use - After water is soaked using the hydro machine, it is tumble dried

b. Capacity - 150 kg

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 c. No of m/c – 4

d. Motor: 960 rpm; 5 HP

6. Dry cleaning machine (Renzacci Progress 65)

a. The machine is imported from Italy

b. Use- Dry Cleaning

c. Capacity- 25kg

d. No of m/c- 2

e. It is also called Perk machine

f. Perchloroethylene is used

g. Average time taken for dry cleaning- 45 mins

h. Motor: 400 rpm

i. Max Power: 9 kW

j. Max Current: 20 Ampere

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 k. Steam Pressure: 3-4.5 bar

l. Water Pressure: 1.5-5 bar

m. Compressed Air Pressure: 6-8 bar

Time taken for various fabrics

1. Cotton
● 10 mins
● 2 rinse
● 5 mins normal wash with surf
● 5 mins softener wash
2. Rayon, Chiffon, Georgette
● 5-10 mins
● 2 rinse
● Softener wash is only done if required by the buyer
● 6.5-7 pH water is recommended

Types of Washing done in this unit:

1. Normal washing
2. Softener washing
3. Enzyme Wash
4. Ozone Treatment

Types of washing done in other units

1. Stone washing
2. Enzyme washing
3. Denim washing

Daily Capacity of Washing:

1. Washing, Hydro & Tumble Drying – 3500-5000 pcs

2. Dry cleaning (Renzacci) – 1200-1500 pcs
3. Sample garment washing (RHW15)

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Chemicals used in washing

Inspections are only done by the buyers once an order is placed. Buyers basically check whether
all the chemicals used are MSDS available. Here, 20 chemicals are used, all of which are MSDS
approved.

List of chemicals used:

1. Clax 100
2. Clax rinse
3. Resi wet eco
4. Liq soap
5. Acetone
6. Green abs
7. Soda Ash
8. Ezyfeel soft
9. Black stain remover
10. Reflax
11. Perk (perchloroethylene)
12. Hexane
13. Invatex eac
14. Citric acid
15. Resiperk soft
16. Tfa ultra
17. Tfa asny
18. Ranipal 2b
19. Naina c
20. Ultrafab msd

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Washing department Hierarchy

Buyer Requirement Sheets & Daily Maintenance

Records

Buyer Requirement sheets show the washing

instruction and the washing recipe. The supervisor
maintains the record. While giving garments in the
washing department, a register is maintained,
which shows whether it's for the sampling or
production department, the number of pieces and
the washing requirement, if it is normal dipping,
softener wash etc.

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111
Finishing Department

There are 13 lines for checking and finishing the garment. The process flow of these thirteen
lines is as follows:

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 1. Thread Cutting:

This involves the removal of the extra threads from the

garment at the stitched areas. In trimming, loose threads
are cut with the help of a trimmer. Inside and outside
trimming is done on the garment while taking care that it
should not affect the stitches in the garment. This is done
with the help of small scissors or trimmers. It is very
important to the final look of the garment that no
unwanted thread hangs from any part.

2. Initial Checking

After trimming the garment goes for initial checking. This

is basically done to check the overall quality of seams and
to ensure that any part didn’t get cut during trimming. The
checkers check for the defects and if any defect is
encountered the garment goes for rectification of that
particular defect. After checking the garments are divided
into the following categories:

Pass Pieces: Pieces which are OK and do not have any

defects.

Pressing Alteration: The garments whose defects can be rectified by being sent to pressing.

Minor Alteration: The garments that require any minor alteration to rectify the defect. Under
this process, the menders raffu the defects, remove pulled yarns and trapped threads inside the
seams and edges, stretch yarns through a metallic comb, etc.

Stain: The garments that have stains present on them. A spotting gun is used which is filled with
½ litre white petrol solvent to remove the stains and bundle ticket sticker gum. For removing
stains, first the solvent is sprayed through a gun and if the stain still remains then chemicals are
used based on the type of the stain present and then rubbed gently by brush. A spotting machine
(Ramsons, model no. - CL7) is also used when fabric gets wrinkled during stain removal (especially
for knitted and hosiery fabric.) The other chemicals used are as follows:

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 CHEMICAL TYPE OF STAIN

Soap and detergent Black stains

Acetone Pen and ink stains

Naina Rust satin

Anupum (dimethyl formamide) Color stain

Reflex White pcs stains

3. Measurement Checking:

The entire garment is checked for all the measurements

according to the final specification sheet.

4. Visual/Final Checking:

The garments are checked for defects again.

5. Pressing:

Each line has 3 ironing tables assigned to it. The various

pressing instructions followed are as follows:

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 ● Garments must lie flat, not crumpled prior to pressing.
● Ensure no crease marks on the body and sleeves.
● Ensure no dirt marks or stains.
● No loose threads.
● No dirt marks.
● No shine marks should appear on the garment.

Random Audit: Line QC randomly pulls out 5-7 pcs and checks for any defect.

Quality Audit

A quality audit is done after the garment is finished. This is one of the most important steps. AQL
of 2.5 is followed most commonly. The AQL level followed depends on the specifications provided
by the buyer. According to the 2.5 AQL audit system:

Lot Size Sample Size Accept Reject

2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 3 0 1

16 to 25 5 0 1

26 to 50 8 0 1

51 to 90 13 1 2

91 to 150 20 1 2

151 to 280 32 2 3

281 to 500 50 3 4

501 to 1200 80 5 6

1201 to 3200 125 7 8

3201 to 10,000 200 10 11

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The document prepared by the Q.A. is an hourly finishing audit report. The format is such which
gives the rejects in visual audit and measurement audit along with the reason for rejection. Per
hour, we can know the number of failed and passed garments.

Packaging Department

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The Packaging Department deals with the packing of the garments into cartons. The
garments in the sealed poly bags are packed into the carton. The specifications for the folding
method, pre pack and final packing are given by the buyer. The packing criteria followed in
each carton box are done in different ways which is as follows:

● Ratio Packing: In this method the carton box includes garments of the same colour
but of different sizes according to the ratio. For example, S: M: L: XL = 5: 7: 7: 5. This
ratio is provided by the buyer.

● Bulk Packing: In this method the carton box includes garments the same size and
same color and each pack of carton has 36 pieces.

After packing in cartons, the garments are again taken out for the quality audit in the quality
department. Here a trained checker will do a thorough inspection of all the selected garments.
The number of cartons to be selected for checking is based on the AQL Chart. And the whether
the lot will be passed or failed is also determined by the AQL Chart. The AQL whether it will be
0.65 or 1.5 or 2.5 will be dependent on the buyer specifications. If the checking does not meet
the required AQL then the entire lot is rejected.

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● Once the quality audit is done and the lots are passed, the garments that were checked
are sent for repacking.

● After these the cartons are sent for Final Statistical audit (FSA), where a quality audit
team will randomly select 10% of the order quantity and do a quality audit.

● Once the FSA is passed the final inspection will be done by the buyer nominated QA. If
the QA approves the garments then only the shipment is ready or else the entire order
will be rejected.

● Once the buyer QA approves, the checked pieces are repacked and all the cartons are
finally sealed with the buyer tapes and are ready for shipment.

● The cartons are stored in the packing section till dispatch.

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● Washing inspection:
○ Shade after and before washing
○ Desired hand feel
○ Stitch/seam defects after washing
● Finishing inspection:
○ Uncut thread are trimmed and inspected for the same

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 ● Inside checking- garment checked from inside for:
○ Seaming defects
○ Overlock defects
○ Labels and their placements
● Outside checking- also called presentation checking, garment checked from outside for:
○ Top stitch
○ Parts and panels put correctly
● Mock needs to be displayed at the ironing tables displaying the desired look of the
ironed part
● Ironing defects checked for
○ Shining marks
○ Steam marks
○ Salt marks
○ Crease marks
○ Garment contour
● Presentation defects checked for:
○ Loose threads
○ Stains
○ Missing parts
○ Construction defects
○ Iron fold marks
● Packaging checked for:
○ 100% carton marking
○ 10% barcode checking
● FSA- Final Statistical Audit
○ Checking done like a buyer QA would do
○ AQL-2.5 followed for sampling 90
○ All the above parameters are checked
○ Garment compared with the sealer sample

List of Defects that are checked for During Audits:

● Brand, care or size label missing.

● Shading
● Wrong color
● Fabric flaw defect

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● Hole in fabric
● Damage
● Conspicuous repair
● Poor construction
● Conspicuous abrasion marks from wash process
● High/ low pockets
● Exposed zipper tape
● Buttons, snap defect
● Button hole raveling, incomplete, not cut properly/ miss aligned
● Sizing problem
● Poorly trimmed garment threads
● Broken stitches
● Skipped stitches
● Open seam
● Conspicuous puckering of seam
● Conspicuous wavy stitching
● Fleeing or raveling of material
● Raw edge
● Uneven seam
● Sleeve length uneven
● Sleeves reversed
● Defect sticker all should be removed
● Pressing wrinkle appearance

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Process Flow OF Packaging: SOL

1. Tagging: Once the garments are done with the inspection and complete pressing then
They are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
Miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Tagging is done with the help of a
tagging gun. The garments may either be tagged after they are folded or before they are
folded depending on the buyer specifications.

2. Folding: The garments are folded according to the instructions given by the buyer.

3. Poly Packaging: Poly bag packing is the next step after the garments have been tagged
and folded. After that the operator packs the garments into poly bags. This will also

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 depend on the buyer specifications. The buyer may ask to pack one garment in a single
poly bag or many garments in one poly bag. The bags may be of small size or large size.

4. Presentation Checking: After folding the garment goes for presentation checking. Here
all the garments are checked for the correct placement of various size labels, tags and
collar line ,matching, whether the folding has been done properly or not and no crease
formation is there anywhere in the garment in order to ensure that the garment meets
all the presentable requirements. This checking is done only to make sure that the
garment looks exactly how the buyer specified.

5. Sealing: After checking sealing is done in which poly bags are sealed through taps and
pasting a sticker on the corner of the poly bag which contains the information about the
style that is provided by the buyer and the placement of the sticker is also decided by the
buyer.

6. Size Sorting: Size sorting is done after presentation check and sealing here the operator
segregates the garments according to the different sizes and piles them size wise.

7. Packaging: After sizing packaging is done, it could be ratio or bulk, it depends upon the
buyer specifications.

8. Lotting: Under this lots are made of same shade garments if there shade variation occurs
and pack. And it is not done for ever style; it depends upon the shade of the garment

9. Solid Packing: After lotting, the lots or size set of garment pieces are moved for carton
packing and no. of pieces for one carton is given by the buyer. Carton sizes must fall
between minimum and maximum measurements as listed below:

Carton construction must adhere to either of the following standards:

1. Cartons must be certified single wall corrugated fibreboard, 250 lbs per square inch
bursting test and 111 lbs per square foot minimum combined weight of facings or 44 lbs
per inch minimum edge crush test.

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 2. Cartons must be certified double wall corrugated fibreboard, 200 lbs per square inch
bursting test and 92 lbs per square foot minimum combined weight of facings or 48 lbs
per inch minimum edge crush test.

Shipping Marks and Labels

Shipping marks are to be placed on only one side of the carton. On the long side of the carton
Purchase Order Information and Bar code Label is given. Main Marks are placed on the short
side.

Information to be given on each type of box: -

● PO
● AT MADE IN “name of place”
● DEPT
● STYLE
● COLOR
● SHADE LOT
● SIZE
● QTY

Quality and R&D

Quality Process

The quality control practices that we are following in our factory are given below:

Fabric Quality Check

Fabric is checked 100% for various All the fabric is checked in laboratory for:
defects like:

Weaving Defects Holes Count/ Shrinkage Tear Strength

Construction

Printing/Dyeing Water/Crease Crocking Appearance after Tensile

Defects marks (Dry/Wet) wash (Garment Strength
45 min. Cycle
machine wash)

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 Width wise Skew/Torque CF to washing CF to light Seam
segregation slippage

Color Variation

Trims

● All trims are checked for durability and performance and are ensured for compliance
with care instructions.
● All trims are attached correctly using proper attachment methods.
● Trim materials are checked to perform consistently with the base fabric performance
with no differential shrinkage.
● Join seams are kept neat and raw edges are removed.
● Ribbon ends are heat-sealed
● Lace panels are paired / matched.
● Pre-shrunk elastic is always used for respective styles.

Cutting

● CAD markers are set as per ratio required and width attained.
● Layering is done on the basis of fabric weight / GSM and size / ratio.
● Dye lot numbers are given on each layer cut, to keep track of lots cut at the packing
stage, if needed.
● Each dyelot is to be cut in ratio to maintain color consistency, when the goods finally
reach the rack.
● Each layer cut is checked for cutting consistency and records are maintained.
● All component parts of the garment are laid parallel to the warp (length) of fabric unless
style warrants others positioning of parts
● All component parts of a garment are laid in one general area and are shade controlled.
● Each layer edge is checked for unacceptable skew / torque.
● All plaids, horizontal stripes and vertical stripes are matched as per the requirement of
Buyer
● Lightweight fabrics or off grain fabric use to relax & make it tension free to prevent
problems in stitching
● Any block or placement print is cut individually to ensure correct print appearance on
the garment

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Stitching

● Time and motion study is done before any style commencement.

● R&D department does product engineering to increase productivity using folders &
attachment also do all necessary requirement to maintain quality standard
● In-line quality check are maintained at each level and the same are followed religiously
with regard to core aspects of stitching:
○ Needles
○ Threads
○ Seams

Needle Checking

● We follow the broken needle policy with utmost importance in the zero tolerance zone.
All records are maintained for the same
● Needles are checked and replaced regularly in order to avoid needle damage and
overheating
● Needles are compatible with the fabric and thread to avoid seam quality problems
● We ensure that compatible constructed fabrics are made with corresponding ball
point/sharp point needles.

Washing and Finishing

● Three garments of each size and of each dyelot of a particular color are run through a 45
min. machine wash cycle and thereafter checked for any washing discrepancy
● Each dyelot is run through a 15 min. washing cycle under supervision of a washing
technician.
● All the garments are given sufficient time to relax and dry thoroughly prior to packing.
● Thread cutting, ironing, spotting and other finishing processes are done under strict
quality control measures.
● Each finishing process is done under the supervision of a senior Q.A. and all the
garments go through 100% quality check
● All the garments are passed through a metal detecting machine
● 100% garments are checked for:
○ Correct labeling, hang tag positioning and carton marking.
○ Off specs garments are corrected or removed.
○ Correct ratio packing.
○ Same dye lots within the carton.

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 ○ Quantity check in each carton as per the packing instruction

Final Quality Inspection

● All the packed garments are inspected for a 2.5AQL quality audit before forwarding
goods to the buyer's Q.A. team
● Records are maintained for all these internal inspections.

Children Safety

● Small parts/choking hazards: For children age 3 and under, anything which can pass
through a choke tube is strictly avoided.
● Garments with small embellishments as sequins, beads etc. are labeled with
"WARNING...CHOKING HAZARD".
● Accessory items with sharp points and edges are not used on children garments
● Garments are ensured to be free from all residual skin irritants using a pH controlled
soap wash
● Lead and formaldehyde contents are regularly checked through nominated labs
● Contentious checking of Button pulling strength, sequence as per the buyer's
requirement

Research and Development

Innovations lead ahead a leader to remain at its position tackling all the challenges. At Richa
Group, utmost importance is given to Research & Development and all efforts are made to
make it one of the best in the world. It is involved in the entire process of garment
manufacturing from pre-production sampling to packing stage. It looks into Industrial
engineering, process feasibility and other technical aspects.

Roles and Responsibilities

Sampling Stage (Product Pre Production Stage Production Stage

development) (Planning) (Implementation and
Feedback)

● Product Engineering ● Layout and M/C ● Work Aids

Engineering

● Pattern Engineering ● Operator’s Training ● Time and Motion

Study

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 ● Operation Research ● Operator’s Skill ● Material Flow
Analysis

● Project Report

R&D prepares a blueprint for every style which starts from Policy deployment to
Continuous improvement and finally to full proofing.

Testing Laboratory

Richa Group is equipped with the most modern testing machines on AATCC/ASTM standards to
maintain the stringent quality of all the products. The sophistication of the testing machinery
ensures that the products are delivered to the clients ensuring the utmost perfection. Fitness
for use is the most widely used concept of quality and it is determined by those features of a
product that a user can recognize as beneficial. At Richa Group, fitness for use is judged from the
consumer's point of view.

Details Of Lab

Their in-house lab is equipped with the latest instruments procured from ISO 9001 certified
organisations. These are the list of instruments which we have in our laboratory.

Conditioning This chamber is used for maintaining standard atmosphere i.e. 65%
chamber Relative humidity.

Crock Meter This instrument is used for determining the color fastness property
due to rubbing action

Laundero meter This instrument is used for determining the color fastness property
due to washing

Light fastness tester This instrument is used for determining the color fastness property
due to action of sunlight

Perspirometer This instrument is used for determining the color fastness property

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 due to the action of water and perspiration

Top loading washing Used for determining the dimensional stability and appearance tests
machine after washing of fabrics and garments

Front loading tumble Used for drying of fabrics and garments

dryer

Elements tear tester Used for determining the tearing strength of woven fabrics

Tensile tester Used for determining the tensile strength of woven fabrics, seam
strength and slippage of woven garments

Beesley balance Used for finding out the yarn count of woven and knitted fabrics

Digital thread Used for finding out the thread construction of woven and knitted
counter fabrics

Binocular microscope Used for fibre analysis of textile materials

PTT meter Used to determine the PTT Value of woven and knitted fabrics

Hot Air oven A chamber used for maintaining a certain preset temperature with or
without hot air facility. Used in tests like fiber analysis, color fastness
to water, perspiration etc.

Macbeth spectralight Color evaluation being carried out in this color matching cabinet
III for color matching which has lig
cabinet

Testing Processes

COMPOSITION AND ANALYTICAL TESTS TEST METHOD

Fibre Analysis / Composition / Content AATCC20A / ISO 1833

Formaldehyde JIS L 1041 / BS 6806

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Dye Identification IS

Anti Rust Test AGEING METHOD

Nickel Free Test 94/27/EEC

pH Value AATCC 81 / ISO 3071

CONSTRUCTION ANALYSIS TEST METHOD

Yarn Counts ASTM D 1059

Fabric Weight (GSM) ASTM D 3776

Construction ASTM D 3775

Type of Weave

Skewness and Bowing ASTM D 3882

Type of Yarn / whether carded or combed

COLOUR FASTNESS TESTS TEST METHOD

Washing AATCC 61 / ISO 105 CO6

Dry Cleaning AATCC 132

Crocking / Rubbing AATCC 8 / ISO 105 X 12

Light AATCC 16E / ISO B02

Water AATCC / ISO105 EO1

Sea Water AATCC 106

Perspiration AATCC 15 / ISO 105 EO4

Chlorine Bleach AATCC 61 5A

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Non Chlorine Bleach Chlorox-2 method

Water Spotting AATCC 104

Actual Laundering AATCC 135 / ISO 5077

Hot Pressing AATCC 133

STRENGTH / DURABILITY TESTS TEST METHOD

Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034

Seam Slippage / Strength ASTM D 1683/434

Tear Strength ASTM D 1424/ 2261

Stretch and Recovery of Narrow Elastics LE- method

Button / Snap Pull Strength In- house method

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE TESTS TEST METHOD

Dimensional Stability to Washing AATCC 135/150 / ISO 5077/6330

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning AATCC 158

Dimensional Stability to Steam Press BS 4323 / ISO 3005

Spirality / Skewing / Torque AATCC 179

Appearance after Washing AATCC 135 / 150

Appearance after Dry Cleaning AATCC 158

Durable Press Rating AATCC 124 / 143

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Procedures

Testing is conducted at all the crucial phases of the production process so that the finest products
are manufactured. In all the procedures, the most modern equipment is used to ensure utmost
perfection.

Testing of raw material is very crucial as it is the base of a product. It consists of the fabrics and
all garment accessories. Before commencing production, all raw materials whether it is fabric or
accessories are tested and ensured whether the same conforms to specifications or not. After
ensuring the raw material quality parameters, prototype samples are made and then the overall
quality parameters are checked in our in-house lab. If the sample conforms to buyers
specifications then again samples are prepared and tested from commercial certified labs for
buyer 's approval. After approval from the buyer, the actual production process starts.

Beside production sample testing, sampling samples are also tested. During the sampling process
any fabric swatch recommended from buyers end and any other trims or accessories to be used
are analysed under close investigation to face any unforeseen problems.

Shipping Department

When the shipment is sent through sea by FOB a consolidator is responsible to handle cargo
and documents on the behalf of the buyer. This consolidator is generally nominated by the buyer.
The payment is to be done within 45 hrs after shipment.

Mode of payment is LC, i.e. letter of credit which is given by the buyer to the bank. As soon as
the buyer receives shipment, the LC is opened but before payment the bank requires all the
documents of shipment which are given by the company’s bank. FCR (first cargo received) is also
submitted along with the documents.

The custom duty in case of the buyer A&F is FCA. For Nordstrom and Chico’s, it is FOB but in
case of late shipment it becomes FCR. In the case of Monoprix the custom duty is FOB.

Working Procedure of the Shipping Department

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Documentation

1. Invoice

It is prepared by the exporter and sent to the importer for necessary acceptance. When
the buyer is ready for the order, he requests an invoice. There are 2 types of invoice-
commercial invoice and consular invoice.

Commercial invoice is a fundamental document for primary acceptance. It contains the

name of the exporter, importer and the consignee along with description of goods.

2. Packing List

It shows the details of goods in each shipment and is more detailed than a standard
domestic packing list. It itemizes the material in each individual package and indicates the
type of package, such as carton.

3. Certificate of Origin

Importers in several countries require a certificate of origin without which clearance to

import is refused. This certificate states that the goods exported are actually
manufactured in the country which has been mentioned.

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4. Shipping Bill

Shipping bill is the main customs document, required by the customs authorities for
granting permission for the shipment of goods. Shipping bill is normally prepared in 5
copies: customs copy, drawback copy, export promotion copy, port trust copy, and
exporter’s copy.

5. Airway Bill

AWB refers to a receipt issued by an international airline for goods and an evidence of
the contract of carriage, but it is not a document of title to the goods. Hence, the airway

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 bill is non-negotiable. It is the most important document issued by a carrier either directly
or through its authorized agent. It covers transport of cargo from airport to airport.

6. Bill of Lading

This is the key document used in transporting goods and an important financial
instrument. It is generated by the shipper, detailing the shipment of merchandise, giving
title to the goods and requiring the carrier to release the merchandise to a named party
at the destination.

EDP Department

This department is responsible for:

● Maintaining the ERP system

● Maintaining the network in the unit

Maintaining the ERP system

● Richa & Co. works on a single ERP system, which unifies all the departments working. This
gives them the superiority of efficient functioning.

● This synchronizes the company’s business activities like sales, manufacturing, delivery,
billing, production, inventory management, quality management, and human resources
management.

● The ERP system being used is GIMS (Gaurav International Management System). This
system is being used throughout all the units which means the details of the activities
for any Unit under the banner of Richa & Co. is just a click away for any person authorized
for access to the details.

● GIMS package provides capability to enter the details of the activities it is designed for
thereby eliminating the need for keeping records on different computers and browsing
through many files when needed. It is a multi-purpose package where the details can be
easily accessed whenever needed through a simple login ID and password. The login ID
and password is provided to employees in various departments.

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 ● The search in the system is uncomplicated and time saving as compared to searching for
different files in some employees’ computers.

Networking of the unit:

1. The main server is maintained in the head unit of Richa group Gurgaon that is
2. Richa & Co. unit 193. There are 6 servers:
3. Terminal server: for GIMS package
4. Mail server
5. Proxy server : for internet
6. Novell server: for personnel department (fox pro)
7. Backup server
8. Domain server: all the computers in the company are controlled through this.

Manpower in the EDP Department

Designation Strength

Assistant Network Engineer 2

Data Entry Operator 3

E.D.P Executive 1

E.R.P coordinator 1

E.R.P trainer 1

Network Administrator 1

Software Engineer 1

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Corporate Social Responsibility

● Richa Group is one of the partners of IPS foundation:

http://ipsfoundation.org/
● IPS Foundation is a non-profit entity of promising and
environmentally conscious youth from versatile business fields.
The mutual vision to protect and support ecologically
progressive endeavour's has brought them together.
● Dangerously high levels of particulate matter with rising
pollution particularly in winters pressed the team to take immediate action. The chief
cause of these high pollution levels was the burning of stubble and crop residue,
practiced post-harvest of paddy and before wheat is sowed for the subsequent year. This
exercise is majorly executed in areas of Punjab, Haryana and Uttar Pradesh.

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 Project
Project: Elimination of Non-Value Added Activities in the Cutting Section of Gaurav
International, Gurugram.

Introduction

Generally in an industry more focus is given on profit. Though there are different costs involved
in cost reduction internally spent by an industry through finding wastages, preventing and
correcting defective work would result in huge savings.Value added activities focus on any
activity that customer is willing to pay for. Non value added activities describe what the customer
does not consider as adding value to his product (for example, waiting time,inspectiontime, zigzag
movement due to improper layout, no proper planning, improper machine use, sharing of
working instruments, absence of operators, worker’s fatigue etc.) .One of the ways to reduce
wastages can be elimination of non-value added activities that can result in reduction in time,
cost, and lead time. Lead time means duration /time required between first receipt of a customer
order and customer receipt of the product or service. It varies with the purpose of analysis .As it
is known that time is money, if more time is required in a product or service more money is
involved. By reacting quicker to make a product as per customer demand, the company can invest
less money and more savings. Therefore we carried a study at Gaurav International at the cutting
section about the process flow to identify non-value added activitiesso as to eliminate them for
saving time, cost and improve internal throughput time.

Materials and Methods

Brief Description of the cutting Room

The cutting department where we conducted this project at Gaurav International, is a manually
operated cutting unit. It uses manual spreading technique and cutting. Cutting department has
straight knife and band knife. Band knife is used to cut small components. The capacity of the
cutting department is around 6000-7500 pieces per day. The cutting department is divided into
two parts one for spreading and cutting of solids and other for stripes. For stripes and solids, both
spreading and cutting is done manually. The fabric that has to go for washing is spread manually
and cut into panels. Around 40-45 workers are engaged for the whole cutting floor consisting of
thirteen cutting tables. The hierarchy of the cutting floor is as follows:

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Material selection and process flow

Fabric consisting of six different styles to produce garments having length x width of 10 m x 1.45
m to produce 700 nos. of garments in each style were considered. Stop watch method was used
to study the time required in each step of the process involved in cutting and also initial and final
time was noted. Total time required for the process is the sum of differences between initial and
final time of each step involved. The steps considered in the process are as follows:

1. Fabric Received in Cutting Section from store Dept

2. Fabric Spreading

3. Marker Sheet Spreading

4. Cutting

5. Numbering of cut panel

6. Shade and Panel Checking

7. Auditing

8. Bundling

9. Delivery

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Problem areas

1- Measuring lay length of lays with longer lengths (lay length > 4mtr).

The cutting operators measure the lay length of lays whose lengths are more than 4 meters after
setting it under the blade, which results in a wastage of approximately 40 – 50 seconds each
time.It has been observed that almost 18 – 20 lays are cut in a day whose length is greaterthan 4
meters. Hence, approximately 30mins of production time is wasted daily in both cutters.

2- Lay changing time.

At an average each time a new lay is brought, approximately 1 - 1:30 min is wasted in bringing
the new lay into the cutter since it is spread on the table of a diff row. This results in a loss of
almost 2 hours of production time daily.

3- Cut panels picking.

Once the lay is cut bit after bit the operators pick the cut panels and place it on the dividing table.
Average time taken in picking all the pieces by two operators was noted to be 1:30 – 2 mins.
Ideally it should be 45 seconds to 1min. This is resulting in a loss of almost 30 – 45 mins including
both the cutters daily.

4- Record maintenance.

There is no hourly production sheet for the cutting department apart from the Pinning section
(not maintained regularly) due to which it is very difficult to gather any data regarding hourly
output of each operator.

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 Problems Time wasted

Measuring lay length 1 - 1:30 mins

Unwinding 1:30 - 2 mins

Cut File unavailability 2 mins

Software issues 2:30 - 3 mins

Picking up cut panels slowly 1:30 - 2 mins

Marker checking 2 mins

Lay changing time 1 - 1:30 mins

Average total (in mins) 11:30 mins

Measuring lay length Lay changing time

Sr. No. Time taken to Sr. No. Time taken to

Resolve (in min) Resolve (in min)

1 25 1 110.87

2 26.9 2 140

3 33.4 3 121.28

4 28 4 134.68

5 21.01 5 102.32

6 27.33 6 137.52

7 0 7 0

8 32.11 8 123.11

9 35.37 9 135.72

10 28.92 10 129.3

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 11 26.58 11 124.76

12 23 12 117.59

13 21.87 13 98.64

14 0 14 0

15 24.39 15 101.71

TOTAL TIME (in min) 353.88 TOTAL TIME (in min) 1577.5

Solutions

1- Measuring lay length after bringing the lay under the blade: There are 3 operators assigned
to each cutter. It is the duty of either of the extra operators, to measure the lay length of the next
lay before bringing it under the cutter so that cross checking lay length with the length of the
marker is done by the time cutting starts. This has to be checked by the Supervisors regularly as
it would take some time for the operators to get accustomed to the new step. This would help in
saving a lot of time, wasted during measuring the lay length i.e. 30 min daily.

2- Lay changing time: With the help of a small Kaizen solution, this problem was eliminated. As
soon as the last bite of a lay is about to be cut, the operators have to pull the next lay just behind
it so that once the last bite is cut completely, the next lay is put under the blade.

3- Cut panels picking: This has to be done faster as there are two operators assigned to do this
job and it has to be monitored by the supervisor as well as the operator controlling the computer.
It would result in saving at least 15 – 20 mins daily, and in that time at least two morelays can be
cut.

4- Machine problems: The machine components have to be checked thoroughly and old parts
have to be repaired or replaced.

Results & discussion

The table shows the total time taken for each garment to complete the process of operation from
fabric received in cutting till delivery and the same table shows segregation of value addedand
non-value added activities.

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Value added and non-value added activities time in cutting section
Style No Time (min) Time (min) VA Time (min) NVA
activities activities

7HP7195 710 545 165

7WP7193 580 475 105

7WD71046 670 485 185

7QD60547 695 533 162

7WD61341 655 549 106

7WP7199 734 585 149

TOTAL 4044 3172 872

Factors causing delay and increase time of non value added activities in the cutting
department

Some factors causing delay and increasing the time of non value added activities in the cutting
department are like-

● Waiting time
● Negligence of operators
● Splicing, paper work
● Measuring length and width of ply
● Roll changing
● No proper identification
● Zigzag movement due to improper lay out
● No proper planning
● Improper machine use
● Defect marks
● Sharing of working instruments
● Absence of operators
● Worker’s fatigue
● Less experienced workers
● Poor machine performance due to excess humidity and temperature
● Fabric is not segregated according to width or gsm of fabric

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 ● No accountability in the department
● No proper relaxation machine
● There is more relaxation allowances for worker which decreases overall on standard
time
● No standard operation followed by operator, etc

Probable cost savings after elimination of non-value added activities

The Table below shows the style-wise costs of value added and non-value added activities in the
cutting section. As per the factory information, the unit cost in the cutting section was taken into
consideration to calculate the overall value added and non-value added activities cost and
consequent cost savings in ultimate factory expenditure. During the experimental observation,
total value added and non-value added time were identified separately and costs related to each
time also calculated. Finally, cost savings for non-value added activities time in terms of total
time (both value added and non-value added time) required to finish the job were calculated.

Style No. Total Cost Per Style Total Cost per Time (min) NVA Total Cost per style for
style for VA activities NVA activities
activities

7HP7195 17750 13625 165 4125

7WP7193 14500 11875 105 2625

7WD71046 16750 12125 185 4625

7QD60547 17375 13325 162 4050

7WD61341 16375 13725 106 2650

7WP7199 18350 14625 149 3725

TOTAL 101100 79300 872 21800

In Gaurav International per day (8 hr shift) average costs in cutting section is $ 150 i.e. Rs 12,000.
The above table indicates that due to non value added activities about 872 min extra time is
required which could be saved from a total 4044 min time for which equivalent cost is
approximately Rs. 21800. So, from the above table data we can calculate the average cost savings
for the industry.So, if this figure is considered in terms of total factory economy then a

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huge amount of factory could be saved easily that may have an important impact on overall
factory economy.

➢ The average cost savings/min is Rs. 21800/ 4044 = Rs. 5.40

➢ The average cost savings/hour is Rs.5.40 x 60 = Rs. 324.00
➢ The average cost savings/day is Rs. 5.40 x 60 x 8 = Rs. 2592.00
➢ The average cost savings/month is Rs. 5.40 x 60 x 8 x 26 = Rs. 67392.00
➢ The average cost savings/year is Rs. 5.40 x 60 x 8 x 26 x 12 = Rs. 8, 08,704.00

Recommendations for eliminating the non value added activities

Some of the recommendations suggested to eliminate non value added time are:

● Proper production planning, minimum waiting time

● Proper allocation of manpower is necessary
● Effective application of industrial engineering
● Well trained operator
● Proper layout plan
● Minimum rework
● Smooth running of cutting machine

Conclusion

It was observed that time was saved and cost related to time was utilized properly (reduced by
eliminating non-value added activities).The study clearly indicates that by eliminating non-value
added activities in the cutting section time as well as cost are saved and also improves internal
throughput time. So, wholehearted efforts from root level to top level personnel are highly
expected to reduce non value added activities in the cutting section.

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References
http://www.richagroup.com/

https://www.richaglobal.com/

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Thank You!

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