DESIGN & FASHION

STUDIES
MID TERM ASSIGNMENT

ARYA KATARE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY( 2020-24) BD/20/2550
 CONTENTS
FASHION EVOLUTION IN 20TH CENTURY

MAJOR FASHION CAPITALS

GROWTH OF RETAIL STRUCTURE OF FASHION INDUSTRY FROM 20TH TO

21ST CENTURY

ARYA KATARE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY( 2020-24) BD/20/2550
FASHION EVOLUTION
IN THE 20TH
CENTURY
 THE GIBSON
1 9 0 0 - 1 9 0 9

GIRLS
Born in 1890s, Gibson Girls became
the first 20th century standard of
EDWARDIAN female beauty and style. The Gibson
STYLE girl was the creation of American
artist Charles Dana Gibson (1867–
1944). They were fashionable
upper-middle-class society of his
time, particularly certain type of
modern young woman who were
independent, athletic, confident,
Camille Clifford was the most famous Gibson girls pretty and feminine.
model with extraordinary figure.
 EDWARDIAN THE GIBSON
STYLE
GIRL LOOK
The Gibson girl look-Edwardian Style
Gibson girl silhouette was determined
PUFFY BLOUSE WITH
by large hips and bust with impossibly
LACE COLLARS
thin waist.
This look consisted of floor length skirts,
loose puffy blouses tops with tight
HAT ORNAMENTED
WITH RIBBONS & fitting S-bent corsets to emphasize
FEATHERS waist and give an hourglass shape.
Lily Elsie Edwardian era Hats and gloves were integral part with
1900s Female Actor. hats often ornamented with ribbons,
photograph of a model posing for feathers, birds etc.
Charles Dana Gibson, ca. 1900-1905
Hair was worn in a center parting, often
looped around pads and false hair to
create a wide 'brim' of hair around the
A typical Gibson Girl hairstyle,
hairline.
1 9 0 0 - 1 9 0 9 around 1906
 TAILCOAT,VEST AND
TOP HAT
1900'S STYLE
Men had numerous outfits like women in
early 90s each for special occasion.
Upper class men wore three piece lounge
suits of different color for less formal
situation styled by bowler or cloth caps.
Frocks coats were popular among upper
class men for formal wear.
Neckties were essential and allowed for a
small pop of color.
BLACK SHOES AND
Black shoes were worn for evening wear
STRIPED PANTS
and gray, brown and tan for the day.
Hats, lace up boots were essentials.
MENS VINTAGE FASHION 1900 1910- DOUBLE BREASTED SPORTS WEAR Sportswear wasn't yet appeared and
EDWARDIAN ERA-TENNIS TENUE
FROCK COAT
instead men wore knickers, blazers of
tweeds and flannels for events.
1 9 0 0 - 1 9 0 9
 THE 1910'S
1 9 1 0 - 1 9 1 9

The S-shaped corsets were no longer

in fashion .During World War I (1914–
18), women adopted practical, working
clothes. Paul Poiret influenced half
the decade by his harem pants, hobble
skirts, striped dress, lampshade tunic
etc.

Post war barrel silhouette emerged. In

men's fashion they sported different
suits for different occasions lounge
suits to tuxedos.
 HAT ORNAMENTED WITH
1910'S STYLE
RIBBONS & FEATHERS Corsets were shaped more to natural curves
Dress lengths were just above the ankle
Striped dress were famous in 1910s
Paul Poiret's “hobble skirt” in 1911 was
STRIPED DRESS narrowed around ankle, it was difficult to
WITH FUR LINED walk in.
COAT Skirts were worn with with a tunic, jacket, or
a fur-lined coat.
During war, Women began to wear uniforms,
including overalls and trousers.
Post war, hobble skirts replaced with
Tubular long skirts worn with tunics.
Big hats with large brims and shallow
Paul Poiret fashion, 1913
HOBBLE crowns, heavily trimmed with flowers,
SKIRTS ribbons and feathers were widely popular in
this time.
Shoes had high, curved heels. boots during
the day, and court shoe in the evenings.
1 9 1 1 - 1 9 2 0
 SACK SUITS 1910'S STYLE

Sack/ Lounge suits , three-piece loose

fitting suits that consisted of a sack with a
matching waistcoat or vest were popular as
a casual alternative to formal.
Pants were ankle high and cuffed.
Evening wear was dominated by dark
tailcoats, worn with a waistcoat and
trousers.
During war the trench coat popularised as
1912 men's suiting
a functional part of uniform.
Post war younger men wore more tailored

SACK SUIT WITH colored suits

HOMBURG HATS Hair was worn parted at the side or the
middle
Felt derby and bowler hats were staples.
1 9 1 1 - 1 9 2 0
 THE ROARING
1 9 2 0 - 1 9 2 9

20'S
The classic 1920s female silhouette
reflected the era’s new sense of
freedom post world war. It was loose,
straight, and slender, with dropped
waists and shorter hemlines. Jean
Patou's flapper dress and Coco
Chanel had great influence. Men’s
wear was influenced by golf and
british tailoring and silhouettes
transitioned from slim to boxy or
baggy. 1920s were a time where
both men and women started
wearing sportswear.
 1920'S STYLE
TUNIC TOPS

Women wore silk dresses under straight

woolen clothes.
Jean Patou's Flapper dress was famous, It
was knee length, drop waisted, sleeveless &
often beaded, sequined or embroidered.
Women wore tennis dresses, knickers,
culottes and blazers to events.
SEQUINED FLAPPER Jewellery was prominent, layers of pearl
GOWN
chains, broches were worn.
Close fitting hats called cloches were
PLEATED DRESS iconic of the decade.
BROWN CREW NECK TANK JEAN PATOU'S PLEATED WITH SWEATER Bob hairstyles were popular.
DRESS, 1920 TENNIS DRESS ,1927
The most fashionable shoes were kitten
heeled t-bars strap shoes or low heeled
1 9 2 0 - 1 9 2 9 court shoes.
PINSTRIPE
THREE PIECE
SUITS SWEATER VEST 1920'S STYLE
WITH ARGYLE
PATTERN FORMAL WEAR Men's wear adopted attached soft collars and low
button and lapel stance with one or two-buttons as
the years progressed.
Waistcoats were optional.
Suits and Trousers in the early 20's transitioned from
fitted suits to boxy and bell bottomed & flared to
single pleated.
FLARED PANTS
Pinstripes were famous in suits.
ACCESSORIES Hats represented classes, from fedoras to homburgs.
Suspenders were worn with slim fit pants.
SPORTS WEAR Popularity of golf brought sportswear into fashion.
SUSPENDERS WITH
Sweaters and sweater vests, popular in Argyle
ATTACHED COLLAR
WHITE SHIRTS patterns with knickerbockers or wide-legged oxford
bag pants were famous.
FOOTWEAR Two toned oxford shoes with round tips were
popular.
Hair were trimmed from sides and sleak back with
1 9 2 0 - 1 9 2 9 TWO TONED
OXFORD SHOES oil.
1 9 3 0 - 1 9 3 9

Women's wear and Men's wear

saw a shift of focus to the movies
for fashion inspiration in the
1930s.The early thirties had a soft,
feminine silhouette. The ideal,
popular profile was tall and thin,
with strong shoulders and slim hips.

THE
Hemlines dropped to ankle length.
Men’s fashion continued to
become less formal The male
silhouette had wide, padded

1930'S
shoulders, a broad chest, defined
waist, and straight legs. The
overall trend was looser and a
little more casual.
 1930'S STYLE

STRIKING COLOR COMBINATIONS

BIAS CUT SATIN
DRESS WITH FUR

PRINTS
COAT
The exaggerated shoulder–on suits or dresses–was a
hallmark of 1930s fashion.
During the day, smart suits of wool with shoulder pads,
and fluted knee-length skirts were worn.
Printed Day dresses with defined waists, puffy sleeves;
modest necklines and mid-calf flared hemlines were
popular.
Evening wear was dominated by long satin body
skimming dresses with low backs that were biased cut.
Women wore baggier, casual lounge pants and wide
EVENING ESSEMBLE
CHARLES JAMES,1934 leg trousers for outdoor activities.
Hair was set short and often had 'finger waves' at the

DOT PRINTED hairline.

WIDE LEG SPORTS SUIT STYLED Jewelry, gloves, silk scarves, and furs and berets were
TROUSERS WITH A HAT used as accessory.
EVENING DRESS COCO Two-tone oxford shoes and strappy dress shoes were
CHANEL, 1932
1 9 3 0 - 1 9 3 9 popular.
 1930'S STYLE
ENGLISH
DRAPE SUIT Suits had high waists and slightly tapered,
creased trousers with turned-up cuffs.
Patterns like stripes, checks, and plaids were
used in suits.
Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor, was a famous
SHORT TIE 1930s fashion icon. He popularized the English
drape suit.
Knitted sweaters, soft-collared shirts, and
flannel trousers were worn for sports.
leather “Bomber” jacket also saw popularity in
the 1930s as casual outerwear.
Men wore one-piece wool swimsuits
PRINCE EDWARD
Suits were accessorized with Vest, pocket
SOFT COLLARED
handkerchief, shorter tie, fedora or bowler
SHIRT
hats
Dark or two-toned leather dress shoes were

1 9 3 0 - 1 9 3 9 popular.
1 9 4 0 - 1 9 4 9

THE 1940'S
World War II had a huge impact on fashion ,Fashion stalled in the first half of the 1940s . During the war both
men and women wore uniforms or utility clothing ,accessories were important because of their relative
affordability. Post war ,Christian Dior launched the New Look in Paris, returning women’s fashion to an overtly
feminine silhouette, while men, women, and children’s clothing all began to lean towards the sporty, casual
American Look. The war caused greater regional variety in clothing styles.Designers in other places gained
more influence in their own countries. In several countries, laws regulated the garment industry, and
manufacturers had less ability to distribute internationally.
 BOXY SHOULDERS
1940'S STYLE
ROUNDED Female dresses had uniform like silhouettes
SHOULDERS simple and fitted, with boxy shoulders, a slim-
belted waistline, and a hemline below the knee.
Designer Claire McCardell popularized sporty,
CLOTHING COUPONS
BRITAIN 1940S comfortable dresses that were a little roomier,
like popover wrap dress using denim, seersucker
SLIM BELTED
and jersey fabrics.
BELOW THE WAISTLINE
KNEE HEMLINE Post World War II, Christian Dior launched “New
Look.” His style rounded the shoulders and
emphasized hips with a full, pleated skirt. The
hemline dropped to mid-calf or lower.
Pants were wide-legged and high-waisted, worn
with tucked-in blouses or as pantsuits with
matching tops.
Hair was worn long, with stylised waves and rolls
on top of the head.
DIOR NEW LOOK 1947
UNIFORM LIKE DRESS BROWN LEATHER Tall platform shoes, sandals, and tall flowery hats
1 9 4 0 - 1 9 4 9
OXFORD SHOES, 1945.
were fashionable.
 1940'S STYLE
BROAD
SHOULDERS WIDE LAPELS Men in civilian clothing wore lounge suits with broad
shoulders, with wide trousers belted high at the
abdomen.
Suit vests were removed as an excess use of fabric.
New suits were made with a wool-rayon blend
instead of wool and often with patterned
DOUBLE BREASTED
(especially striped) fabric.
DOUBLE STRIPED SUIT
Suits and shirts were made with fewer pockets and

TOP HAT narrower lapels.

Trousers didn't had cuffs.
The baggy, colorful “zoot suit,” popularized by jazz
culture came into fashion again by immigrants.
Post war, baggier suits and double-breasted jackets
with wider lapels became popular again.
Soldiers wore “Bold Look”; suits and ties with bolder
colors and louder patterns and sports jackets in
contrasting colors.
1 9 4 0 - 1 9 4 9 Hats were not popular, fedoras, flat hats were worn.
 THE 1950'S
1 9 5 0 - 1 9 5 9

During and after the war, designers came

to prominence from places other than Paris,
France. The iconic 1950s fashion of women
was all about Poodle skirts and ponytails,
jeans and slick-backed hair. Men's fashions
still revolved around the suit.

Men and boy’s fashion moved towards a

more casual day-to-day style, Subcultures
rised The popularity of Rock and Roll music
was a catalyst for new fashion trends
including Rockabilly, Pin Ups, Greasers,
Teddy Boys and Judies.
 SHEATH DRESS BY
GIVENCHY

WIDE
1950'S STYLE
SAUCER HAT
1950's Silhouettes evolved from cliched in
waistlines and fuller skirts to straighter cuts and
less structured fits.
CLOSED TOE
PUMPS New look, poodle skirts with tight knitted jackets in

BLOCK tweeds and woolens were popular daywear during

COLORS first half of decade.
High waisted chemise dresses by Balenciaga and
Sheath dress by Givenchy were popular in the
COCKTAIL second half of decade.
DRESS 1958 Dresses had rounded shoulders, cinched-in
CHANEL
waistlines, exaggerated hips, and full skirts.
Closed-toed pumps, stiletto heels, flats, wedges,
sandals, moccasins, in a variety of solid or print
colors were popular.
Actress Audrey Hepburn popularized a casual, chic
Suit jacket with hat look, pairing dark, slim pants with simple boat-

1 9 5 0 - 1 9 5 9 necked tops and flat pumps.

 1950'S STYLE
BAGGY In the early 1950s, Older men wore conservatively-
HALF SUITS colored, baggy suits with narrow ties.
KNITTED Colors were the major change in men's fashion
VESTS
they came into daywear shirts and sweaters
Hawaiian-style shirts and knee-length shorts were
summer staples.
Leisure wear had lightweight sports coats and
colored shirts with trousers.
Beatnik style, consisted of slim trousers with
TEDDY BOY LOOK sweaters thick and shirts untucked.
Teenagers began to appear as a separate group
during the 1950s.
Rebellious look, jeans, a white t-shirt, and leather
jacket were famous.
WHITE
TEE Teddy boy look consisted of pointed shoes, tight
trousers and long jackets with velvet trims.
1 9 5 0 - 1 9 5 9 Tuxedo accessories added a pop of color
 1930'S STYLE

STRIKING COLOR COMBINATIONS

BIAS CUT SATIN
DRESS WITH FUR

PRINTS
COAT
The exaggerated shoulder–on suits or dresses–was a
hallmark of 1930s fashion.
During the day, smart suits of wool with shoulder pads,
and fluted knee-length skirts were worn.
Printed Day dresses with defined waists, puffy sleeves;
modest necklines and mid-calf flared hemlines were
popular.
Evening wear was dominated by long satin body
skimming dresses with low backs that were biased cut.
Women wore baggier, casual lounge pants and wide
EVENING ESSEMBLE
CHARLES JAMES,1934 leg trousers for outdoor activities.
Hair was set short and often had 'finger waves' at the

DOT PRINTED hairline.

WIDE LEG SPORTS SUIT STYLED Jewelry, gloves, silk scarves, and furs and berets were
TROUSERS WITH A HAT used as accessory.
EVENING DRESS COCO Two-tone oxford shoes and strappy dress shoes were
CHANEL, 1932
1 9 3 0 - 1 9 3 9 popular.
 SWINGING 60'S
1 9 6 0 - 1 9 6 9

The decade saw a revolution in youth culture led

by The Beatles, which culminated in the hippy
fashion of the late 60’s. The 1960’s psychedelic
movement reignited the Belle Epoch Art Nouveau
era. The decade coined the term “retro” and the
A-line shift dress echoed the simple flapper
dresses of the 1920’s.

Rock stars such as The Beatles, Jimi Hendrix, and

Mick Jagger, among others, became a primary
influence on men’s fashion. Clothing became
increasingly unisex as men and women shopped
at the same boutiques for similar items.
 Iconic Go-go boots in
1960'S STYLE
white color.
Designers like Mary Quant introduced mini skirt and
mini dresses that fell above upper thigh.

PRINTS
In 1963 Pinafores paired with sweaters, worn by
Quant's ginger group were staples.
The iconic "Mod look" consisted mini skirts and
dresses worn with boots, coloured tights, large
caps, short hair and heavy eye make-up.
Pacco Rabbane's
metallic chain dress Space-age fashion; Go-go boots in fluorescent
colors, and sequins made from PVC were staples.
Pierre Cardin’s famous space age looks had the
Classic mod look helmet, short tunics with huge cutouts and colourful
tights and goggles.
By 1969 Hippie Culture was emerging that brought
the skirt length to mid calf and also introduced full
length maxi skirt.
Hippe look, with beaded Suede, headbands, kaftans, Afghan coats, beads
neackpiece.
and were embraced during hippie movement.
1 9 6 0 - 1 9 6 9
 1960'S STYLE
SAINT LAURENT RIVE

SUSPENDERS
WIDE LEG In 1960s Brightly striped or patterned suits
GAUCHE SMOKING
EVENINGTROUSERS
SUIT were famous among young men.
By mid 1960s, Military jackets were
popularised by Rock influencers such as Mick
Jagger and Jimi Hendrix .
In 1966, men's fashion saw influence from
space like elements from Pierre Cardin'
Cosmo collection, turtle neck sweaters and
Pierre Cardin's Cosmo
zipped tunics.
collection
Men's Mod look were usually Sharp Italian
suits and pointed winkle picker shoes.
Beatnik style in typical For a more casual look they wore Parka
turtle neck
jackets with polo shirts and tailored trousers
or jeans.
In the late 1960s Tie-dye, loose-fitting shirts,
and velvet vests were staples.
Men had bowl cuts hairstyles.
1 9 6 0 - 1 9 6 9
 THE 1910'S
1 9 1 0 - 1 9 1 9

The S-shaped corsets were no longer

in fashion .During World War I (1914–
18), women adopted practical, working
clothes. Paul Poiret influenced half
the decade by his harem pants, hobble
skirts, striped dress, lampshade tunic
etc.

Post war barrel silhouette emerged. In

men's fashion they sported different
suits for different occasions lounge
suits to tuxedos.
 THE 1970'S
1 9 7 0 - 1 9 7 9

Womenswear embraced elements of menswear, men’s fashion also became more gender-neutral in the
1970s. Tight t-shirts, jeans, shirts and sweaters were worn by both men and women and some skinny men
even opted to wear women’s clothing instead of men’s. In the mid-1970s, some men and women in London
began to shock with the anarchic Punk style. Women’s fashion looked back to the 1940s by day and
pumped up the glamour by night. Disco became increasingly popular, women’s evening wear became
increasingly glamorous.
 1970'S STYLE

EVENING WEAR
In the early 1970s midi length prairie dress
with flounces and delicate floral patterns,
were popularized by designers and retailers
like Gunne Sax and Bill Gibb.
women's safari jacket Daywear was mostly inspired from 40s.
Eveningwear was dominated by swirling
dresses and skirts.
1974 Wrap dresses ,with long sleeves and
mid-length paired w with strappy sandals,
jewelry and loosened hair allowed transition
from day to evening wear.
Head to toe leaopard Animal prints, fur coats were also in fashion.
printed style.
Early 70's disco look was Classy, full-length
Figure hugging
full length pants figure-huggers battled with short, sparkly
Loosened hair halter necks and hot pants.
Flared pants Strappy sandals were staples.
1 9 7 0 - 1 9 7 9
 leisure suit, 1922 Piere Cardin
1970'S STYLE

PUNK STYLE
In the early 1970s, men’s fashion tried to
emphasize a tall, lean figure with Turtlenecks,
slim-fitting shirts,
The traditional suit reflected the prevailing
styles with slim-fitting jackets and flared
trousers, often with wide lapels.

Pacco Rabbane's In summers ,the light-colored Safari suit was

metallic chain dress worn belted with large patch-pockets,
popularized by James Bond.

knitted top and flared

In the mid 1970's Anarchic punk style tight
pants
Safety pins black pants, leather jackets and Doctor
embellishments Marten boots often slashed/ripped
&embellished with safety pins, zips and studs
silver boots
had risen.
Tracksuits and running shoes were worn as
every day casual wear.
1 9 7 0 - 1 9 7 9
 THE 1980'S
1 9 8 0 - 1 9 8 9

It was a decade of big hair, padded shoulders and bold colours and patterns. There was a heavy emphasis on
expensive clothes and accessories. Designers worked with pop bands and the growth of the music video
encouraged crossovers between fashion and music. The early 80s were somewhat subdued in color, where we see
a lot browns and tans and oranges. Blocky shapes were everywhere and Athletic gear began to become everyday
attire. Dancewear became a huge fashion trend in the 1980.Velour was hot and velvet was even hotter. For both
men and women, the waistline was a little high.The 80s were a pivotal time in men’s fashion.Bright colors, bold
accessories and big hair were all the rage and created the signature 1980s.
 statement jwellery
1980'S STYLE

POWER DRESSING
Streetwear in the 80s was about colour and fun.
Nylon track suit tops were worn as jackets over
jeans.
The style of the power dress was a tailored pin-
stripe short-skirt suit, often in bold colors.
pale blue semi fitted jeans held with a decorative
belt, distressed versions were most fashionable.
Statement jewellery, particularly big earrings and

Green blouse with dramatic brooches were staples.

shoulder pads over a black Velvet taffeta party dresses, backless or sequined
1980s Daywear leotard.
till waist/hip and puffed up to bottom were
popular in evening wear.
1985, Janet
Jackson in Tight cycling shorts were worn as streetwear with
Golden taffeta dress red power square, baggy t-shirts for leisurewear.
shoulder top
tucked into Court shoes, Loafers and trainers were popular for
high- casual wear.
strappy heels
waisted
Big, chunky spectacles and sunglasses were in.
1 9 8 0 - 1 9 8 9 denim.
 1980'S STYLE

MAXIMALISM
1980s was a decade of maximalism with Large
windbreakers, oversized puffy jackets, bum bags
and chunky sneakers.
In the mid- to late-eighties, “power suit.” were
pin-striped, double breasted suits with wide
lapels.
Men wore bright colored ties and suits were
Tees with political slogans. essential for white-collar workers
The early- to mid-1980s saw the rise of goth
Overall denim casual look fashion Dr Martens boots were staples.
Leisurewear consisted of denim jacket and light
Oversized
windbreaker pants at the pub
The 80s casual look for men included sportswear,
including track suit pants and sports footwear.
Athletic shoes were becoming a fashion symbol,
with the popularity of Nike Air Jordan shoes in

1 9 8 0 - 1 9 8 9 the late 80s.

 THE 1990'S
1 9 9 0 - 1 9 9 9

The 1990s in popular culture is typically referred to as the decade of "anti-fashion". In reality, anti-fashion was only
one of many trends in fashion in the 1990s; however the fashion of the 1990s was characterized by a rejection of
the fashion of the 1980s. The fashion of the 1990s was also characterized by many overlapping, often contradictory
trends. The most significant event in 1990s fashion was the rise of grunge fashion in 1992. In the late 1990s there
was a move away from grunge. Retro clothing inspired by the 1960s and 1970s was popular for much of the
1990s.Style in the early 1990s was decidedly low maintenance. . Ralph Lauren’s Polo line, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin
Klein provided the “Designer” version of sportswear in particularly desirable names
 1990'S STYLE
statement jwellery

NIRVANA
In the early 1990 Tom Ford's sexy and sleek gowns were
famous
Grunge came into fashion in 1993, and consisted of
thrifted vintage flannel shirts/cardigans over any tshirt of
decade, styled up with jeans and boots.
In mid 90s slip dresses over white tshirt and silk dressses
wear worn in formalwear.
Heroin chic girls, tall thin and fragile sick girl's thin
minimal grunge makeup
sihouette was the major influence.
The sexy schoolgirl look was obtained by knee high socks
and baby doll tshirts.
Tommy hilfiger crop top Gap's cargos and sweatshirts were a popular everyday
and overalls.
Bohemian Style wear.
Slip dress paired Tommy Hilfiger's branded parkas, and combat trousers
with kitten heels were opted for outdoor activities.
In the late 90s bohemian style came low slung jeans and
Dr marten's crop top in various textures.
boots
1 9 9 0 - 1 9 9 9 Long loose hair, grunge girl's hair clips were popular
accessories.
 1990'S STYLE

GRUNGE LOOK
Early 90s were influenced by grunge bands
like Nirvana oversized flannel shirts,
untucked shirts, sweaters and converse

Baseball caps shoes were popular in style.

with Mid 90s were majorly influenced by Hip
basketball
shorts and hop and rap culture by baseball caps and
sneakers. jackets, basketball shorts, tracksuits, and
Leather jackets and hoodies.
baseball caps. Friday dressing came into fashion.
Formal wear consisted of Jeans and tshirt.
Khaki/ jeans were also styled for an formal
cardigan and graphic
tshirt. informal look.
Graphic tee with overshirt, Preppy style look khaki pants, navy blazers
jeans and loosen hair
and Oxford shirts was popular throughout
the decade.

1 9 9 0 - 1 9 9 9
MAJOR FASHION
CAPITALS
MAJOR FASHION CENTERS ;
P A R I S
N E W Y O R K
L O N D O N
M I L A N
S H A N G H A I

PARIS
 PARIS AS A FASHION
CENTER?
The Paris Fashion Week is the finale of the big four
fashion weeks – the others being Milan Fashion Week,
London Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week.
Held predominantly in the Paris, Its fashion week helps
dictate what the world will be wearing next season.
It has been considered the style and fashion capital of
the world since the 16th century, and it has been
influential in the fashion world ever since.
The fashion industry is one of the most grossing
industries in France and therefore, an integral part of
its economy.
Notable French designers became household names in
Paris and changed fashion forever. Two of them are
Coco Chanel and Saint Lauren.
HOW PARIS EMERGED AS A
FASHION CENTER?
Earlier fashion was dispersed in different cities in the world.
France emerged by the end of war and under the reign of Louis
XIV.
Louis XIV placed a large number of artistic industries, under the
control of the court, which became the world's arbiter of style
and elegance.
Charles Frederick Worth was the first to open a fashion house
hence starting houte couture.
As the haute couture industry developed in the late 19th century,
seamstresses and tailors started settling in France.
Within a short time, Paris became the thriving hub of the fashion
world.
Paris was the home of fashion shows and all the fashion
magazines were either based in or looked to Paris for their
information. For women throughout the Western world, Paris was
the be all and end all of clothes.
NEW YORK
NEW YORK AS A FASHION
CENTER
New York City is the center of fashion, and offers creative
talent, retail space in highly-populated locations,
NYC is also home to more headquarters of fashion designers
and fashion retailers than any other city in the United States.
Some of the most famous fashion designers in the world were
born or had ties with new york. Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan,
Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, , Carolina Herrera, Jason Wu, Tory
Burch, Anna Sui, Bill Blass, Isaac Mizrahi, Geoffrey Beene, and
Narcisco Rodriguez
The biannual New York Fashion Week attracts thousands of
fashion industry personnel from around the world..
It was the first city to host the fashion week, and as such,
made history.
They made history by kick-starting the largest and the most
important event in the industry that occurs each year.
HOW NEW YORK EMERGED
AS A FASHION CENTER
Designers based in New York challenged Parisian
couture by introducing sportswear in the high fashion
world back in the 1940s and 1950s.
In just a few years, department stores like Macy’s and
Lord & Taylor opened their doors to high-class
shoppers, New York became synonymous with a
luxurious lifestyle, hustle culture, and big brands.
By the 1920s, “The Tenderloin” on Seventh Avenue, “the
seediest area of Manhattan” became the new hot spot
for the garment industry, as 130 garment factories
opened in just 10 years.
Icons like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein began on
Seventh Avenue in the 1960s, and soon enough Seventh
Avenue became “ synonymous
Fashion is an integral part of life for people living in
New York.
MILAN
MILAN AS A FASHION
CENTER

Milan city is considered one of the leading

fashion centers in the world.
There are over 12,000 companies, 800
showrooms, and 6,000 sales outlets of different
fashion brands. These include the world’s most
famous Prada, Versace, Armani, Dolce &
Gabbana, Valentino, and Luxottica. Milan is the
perfect place for fashionistas and industry
specialists as it showcases a perfect blend of
luxury, art, and culture.
It is a host to The Milan Fashion Week since 1958.
It was the year the first fashion week was held in
Milan.
HOW MILAN EMERGED AS A
FASHION CENTER
In 15th century Women in Italy wore elaborate
clothing, jewelry, makeup, and other accessories while
men wore pigmented colors and intricate
embroideries on their tunics
During this time, cities such as Florence, Venice, Milan,
Naples, and Rome produced their own textiles and
fabrics like wool, silk, and velvet.
By the latter half of the 20th century, Milan was a
prominent industrial city with good manufacturing
connections.
Designers turned to Milan for its trend-setting status,
especially after 1961 when it was the headquarters of
Vogue Italia.
Milan-based pioneers in fashion, Giorgio Armani and
Gianni Versace, also had a huge hand in solidifying
the city’s name even further after their designs
became very popular.
LONDON
LONDON AS A FASHION
CENTER
London's fashion has a diverse array of style and design
which has been influencing trends around the world for many
decades.
One of the world’s most creative cities, the streets of London
are lined with quirky boutiques, thriving markets and high-end
shops offering collections of sought after items alongside
unique, one-off designs.
Moreover, London is populated with people from all walks of
life, and this multicultural aspect is what made designers who
are based in London stand out.
Jimmy Choo, Stella McCartney, and Vivienne Westwood all
operate out of England and are known worldwide
London Fashion Week was born in 1984 and has seen an
amazing evolution. Early years attracted industry boffins and
the fashion trade and now it is the fixture on many fashionistas
and celebrities calendars.
Now it hosts fashion week twice a year.
HOW LONDON EMERGED AS
A FASHION CENTER

London dominated the field in the export of unfinished

products and materials such as wool and silk, while also
importing high-end luxury items such as embroideries and
fur.
London became the place that the richest and most
influential of people flocked . The palaces of royalty such
as Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, all resided in London, and this
drove the influence of luxury fashion and true English style.
18th Century fashion saw beautiful silk embroidery,
eelaborate full dresses etc. London’s fashion scene
blossomed during this period, as they excelled in sharp
tailoring, fitted gowns and silhouette-enhancing
ensembles, much like the influences from English royalty.
In 19th century,London’s clothing industry rapidly
expanded and the West End earned its reputation for
producing and selling high-end, up market luxuries
SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI AS AN
EMERGING FASHION
CENTER
Shanghai consistently ranks as one of the most stylish fashion
capitals in Asia, having previously placed in the Global
Language Monitor’s top 10 most fashionable cities in the
world.
Native designers such as Helen Lee, Christine Lau and Masha
Ma, it’s not hard to understand why. From its thriving design
industry to the city’s unique architectural aesthetics, Shanghai
is tough competition for the title of Asia’s most fashionable
city.
Luxury fashion is alive in Shanghai, but with some of the most
adventurous streetwear and funky reimaginings of prep
couture, this city is arguably the heart and home of innovation
among the fashion capitals of the world.
Since 2003, Shanghai Fashion Week has been showcasing
these new talents
HOW SHANGHAI IS AN
EMERGING FASHION
CENTER
Shanghai was the “Paris of the East” and “Pearl of the Orient”
in the early 20th century.
At that time, the most visible aspects of Shanghai fashion were
the dazzling clothes that cinema stars wore during social
events or in ballrooms.
Between the 1950s and 1960s, Shanghai became China’s
industrial center in the textile field. This is where all the trends
were born.
In the 1990s, Shanghai emerged as a global financial center,
a transportation hub and a design and high-tech innovation
center.
The city is home to famous fashion brands such as Icicle and
Shanghai Vive. These are fashion leaders in China and are
now expanding their brands overseas.
Since 2003, Shanghai Fashion Week has been showcasing
these new talents and attracting designers.
GROWTH OF RETAIL STRUCTURE
OF FASHION INDUSTRY FROM
20TH TO 21ST CENTURY
 GROWTH OF RETAIL STRUCTURE
OF 20TH CENTURY
The fashion industry encompasses the design, manufacturing, distribution, marketing,
retailing, advertising and promotion of all types of apparel (men’s, women’s and
children’s).
In the early decades of the 20th century, as women’s dresses became mass-produced
commodities, yardage decreased, and simpler styles began to appear.
United Parcel Service was founded in 1907. It made ready to wear available, and the
mail-order catalogs from Montgomery Ward and Sears, Roebuck & Company, among
others arrived.
By 1915 ready-to-wear had become regular features in these departmental stores.
Later department stores began to feature knock-offs.
The American advertising industry was born in the 1920s , and it played a critical role
in developing the fantasy of ready-to-wear
Near the end of the Great Depression the Roosevelt Administration created a project
to standardize women's measurements. From July 1939 - June 1940 American women
were measured in order to formulate average sizing. This would save on alterations
and cut down on store returns increasing the sales of ready-to-wear apparel.
The first shopping mall was opened in 1956 in Edina, Minnesota. Malls were often
anchored by a large department store with a cluster of other stores around it.
By 1960, there were more than 4,500 malls accounting for 14% of all retail sales.
In 1962 the first Walmart opened its doors in Rogers, Arkansas. Target and Kmart
also opened their first stores that same year.
Retail stores once introduced new lines four times a year (for each season) many
chains now bring in new designs every two weeks.
In 1963, Carrefour opened the first hypermarket in St Genevieve-de-Bois, near
Paris, France.
The US, particularly New York City, was a hub of garment manufacturing and
distribution. In 1965, 95% of American's clothing was made in the the US.
Apparel was produced by small, independent firms. As late as 1990 the United
States was home to over 12,000 independent clothing manufacturers. In 1996,
the US textile industry employed 624,000 people.
By the end of the twentieth century, stores were using labels such as "mega-
stores" and "warehouse" stores to reflect their growing size.
Outlet stores generated total sales of $14.3 billion in 1999.
GROWTH OF RETAIL STRUCTURE
OF 21ST CENTURY

In the 21st century, globalization became a driving force for

both domestic and international supply chains.
The world's 200 largest retailers generated $2.14 trillion in
sales during 2002 and captured 30 percent of worldwide
sales.
However, the top nine largest retailers are discount stores or
category killers, indicating a consumer trend to demand low
prices.
With increasing globalization, 56 percent of the top 200
retailers operated in more than one country.
Wal-Mart was the world's largest retailer in terms of sales
and number of stores in the world. It was more than three
times the size of the second largest retailer, France's
Carrefour.
In the early twenty-first century, the largest department stores in
the United States in terms of sales include Sears , JCPenny,
Federated Department Stores, which owns Macy's and
Bloomingdale's among others.
In 2007,Facebook, the most successful social media platform ever,
has over 60 million active business pages on it.
By 2011, Facebook rolled out sponsored stories as a form of early
advertising. Marketers could capitalize on the huge amount of
data people provide Facebook to target very specific customers.
In 2018 ,The growth of sales in physical stores was merely 3.7%.
Meanwhile, ecommerce sales saw a 15% jump. In a decade,
ecommerce sales have grown from 5% of the retail market share
to nearly 15%.
Covid imapcted retailers, A record 9,500 stores went out of
business in 2019 in the United States, but as many as 25,000 could
shut down permanently in 2020, mostly in malls

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