o

2 a :

by Dena Kaye

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l

Ifi kitchen, with Mandel

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 amous French chefs are very busy these days as they actly," says Fr6dy ofthis experience. "The spirit was difler-
F trafEc at home and abroad.Two examples:
I
I
ent. There, the cook was important. In Switzerland, the
Paul Bocuse leaves his restaurant near Lyons to sell cook never came into the dining room, was never in direct
I
wines worldwide and oversee two restaurants in Tokyo. touch with the clients."
His cookbook has been published in fourteen languages Girardet decided to try some of the dishes from the
and the French government has twice decorated him. Troisgros brothers on his own, but quickly stopped. "This
Michel Gu6rard has written two cookbooks devoted to visit to Troisgros made me see that a chef can have his own
the cuisines- minceur and gourmatnde-he serves at his ho- style. I decided that from then on I would make a cuisine
tel in Eug6nie-les-Bains in the Pyrenees foothills. Now that pleased me,before I served it to my clients. I had my
the nouvelle cuisine frozen foods he developed are in difficulties, because people have certain expectations and
supermarkets in France, Belgium and Switzerland. do not always appreciate how good a simple dish can be."
While these culinary luminaries diligently pursue le busi- He often uses the phrase, " c'est trop simple," to descnbe his
ness, the t:aan The lrlew York Times anointed "the world's own cooking.
greatest new chef" is committed to his kitchen. He wants He adheres to his standards. For example, a couple
to stay put in his restaurant-and cook. ordered pigeonneau (squab), w.hich he likes ro serve pink at
But then, Fr6dy Girardet of Switzerland is an anomaly it back to be cooked more. He de-
the bone. They sent
in the world of haute cuisine. He never srudied with a clined, sayrng that ifit's done at the bone,the rest ofthe bird
master chef and his entire trairung u,as in Switzerland. It will be overcooked. He offered to refund their money or
wasn't until he was in his mid-thirties rhat he gave up his make another dish, rather than offend his own taste.
interest in playing soccer and devoted himself to cooking. Ofhis independence, he says: "Young French chefs had
"Sports had always been my passion," says fairhaired Fernand Point [at La Pyramide in Vienne]. I had only my
Girardet, who could pass for a movie srar. "'W'hen I was father. Perhaps, in terms of cooking, not having had the
young, soccer was the best-known sport in Switzerland, equivalent of a 'Point' was my good luck." Fr6dy Girardet
and it was my favorite recreation." escaped raps on the knuckles and found his own way.
But Girardet did grow up in a culinary atmosphere. Blazing his own trail is also reflected in his artitude
When he was very young, his father worked long hours as toward recipes. "One has a feeling about a recipe," says
chef de cuisine in a Lausanne restaurant. '[/hen his father Girardet. "You can give the same recipe to four
diflerent
was at home, the house was filled with people talking people and each will trear it differendy."
about cooking. "My mother advised:'Fr6dy, dotr't 1...r, pr6dy Girardet's response to food is intense. As one per-
cooking-you will never have time for anything else."' I.son who watched him cook said, "When he peels a
Q o, at the age of 15, he began an apprenticeship in print- turnip, it is as ifhe were peeling it for the first or last rime."
r.J ing. It lasted only two months because he didn't like Girardet says: "One doesn't cook, one composes." At a
I
it. By this time, his father had a small cafe in rhe town hall given moment, he may have a few dozen vegetables to
of Crissier. a i,illage outside Lausanne. (Today Fr6dy choose from to accompany a main dish. Each dish has a
Girardet owns rhe tor.r,n hall that houses his restaurant.) certain form; each is a unit as perfect as he can make it. He
He began working as an apprentice in his father's cafe. "In composes for contrast: when he decides the shape and taste
apprenticeship you cook very little, you learn dexterity, of cauliflower are right, but not the white color, he simply
you chop," says Girardet. "Then, to be able to cook crea- cooks the vegetable in turmeric, water and a little ,rinegar
tively, you musr be born t'ith a special ralent. you either
]

to produce pale yellow florets. He bothers with details: i

have it or you don't." he'll blanch Chinese pea pods, split rhem, remove the peas I

V/hat he did learn from his father has remained with and arrange the halfpods on a salad platter.
him. For example, he has an almost reverent attitude Is his cooking "nouvelle"? He thinks the whole idea of
toward the raw materials he uses ir-r his cooking. "One nouvelle cuisine has become "a mountain." He says, "It's
thing is for certain," he says. "My iather never skimped, classic cuisine that's simple, lighter than before. What is
never cheated by using inferior ingredients." new is to cook food less, to preserve its natural flavor."
V/hen his father died, his morher Georgette asked him V/hat's new in the Girardet kitchen is that the saucier is
to help her run the cafe. "I gave up my soccer then, and dead: "l don't think you can have a saucier make the sauce
applied myself to cooking. I tried a dish called gratin de for a fish. The sauce has to come from the fish. The
faises that became the gratin d'oranges still on our menu. I amount ofsauce has to correspond to the size ofthe fish (or
attempted the dishes of the grands cuisiniers although I meat) so that there is harmony."
had never tasted their creations. I made a very good gratin
The harmony in the kitchen of Fr6dy Girardet can be
dauphinois without cheese or egg-just with cream." disturbed only by a lack of resources. "Today I deal with
Eventually, Fr6dy Girardet got a rasre of French haute
small growers who are true 211is2ns-y7ho grow very fine
cuisine. A friend took him to the resraurant of the green beans, little peas. But our land is in danger. It
Troisgros brothers in Roanne. "It wasn't what I ate ex- belongs to the politicians. V/hat will they do with it?"
 Recipes frorn F?6dy Girardet
by Abby Mandel
Jovan Trboyevic, of the famous Le Perroquet restaurant
in Chicago, told me in 1977 that the world's greatest new
French restaurant was in the tiny Swiss village of Crissier.
Each year I go to France to work in a great restaurant
kitchen, and in the summer of 1978I left France for a day
to have lunch at that Swiss restaurant. My first taste of
Fr6dy Girardet's cooking was a revelation. His inventive-
ness was spectacular. The lunch was a sequence ofexciting
new combinations of color, taste and texture.
I pulled every string I could for permission to work in
his kitchen. ln 1979 and again last year, I crammed 90
working hours into each week there, taking notes and try-
ing to capture the essence of his cuisine. He loves vegeta-
bles, but serves none of the purees so characteristic of the
nouvelle cuisine of France. He makes no meat plt6s or ter-
rines, no classic mousses of seafood. A vegetable is the
dominant ingredient of both the one terrine and the one
mousse on his menu. Instead ofbrown stock, the "mother
stock" of French cooking, he usually turned to a vegetable
stock which I had not seen in any other restaurant kitchen.
Since then I have seen it used elsewhere.
During both my visits Fr6dy Girardet was delightfully
eager to help mq learn al1 I could of his art and his intense
feelings about cooking. He is unlike any other great chef
under whom I have worked. He spends more time in the
kitchen cooking for his guests and less time in his dining
room acting as host than any of the three star chefs I knor,v
in France. His restaurant seats 70 guests; the kitchen crerv
numbers 17.
Because we wanted to show you exactl,v how the
finished dishes looked at Girardet's, we photographed
many of them there. (His concentration on his r.,'ork is so
great that he does not even notice when pictures are taken
in his kitchen.) As an aid to your success in preparing his
recipes, we took additional pictures as we tested them at
The Pleasures of Cooking.
Appetizers
- and
First Corrrses
ONIONTART
La Thrte aux Oignons
This light, delicately fiavored, tender-crusted tart is
customarily serued to all diners at Cirardet's restaurant when
they sit down to aperiti;fs. lt is baked twice a day, to be served
Jresh: it does not take a lot of standing. The uersion that
follows is as the dish was serued to me on my second uisit to
the restaurant; Cirardet had added tomatoes and basil to his
oiginal mixture. It is the best dish ofi* kind I haue ever
14 The Pleasures ofCooking
tasted, a perfect beginning to uirtually any menu . For a
luncheon egg dkh, I sometimes bake thefilling without the
crust, in a buttered 6 cup ouenproof dish, at the same
temperature and time as the recipe below.
PXte Bris6e (recipe follows)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2large Spanish onions (1 pound), peeled
2 ounces (about 1/z slices) bacon, cut into fine
julienne strips
6 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
% cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
% teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
lz large tomato ounces)-skin, ribs and seeds
(4
removed, flesh cut intojulienne strips
2 teaspoons fresh basiljulienne strips, or 1%
teaspoons dried basil
Make the Pite Bris6e; on a lightly floured board, roll it
out to a diameter of 13 to 14 inches. With 1 tablespoon
of butter, butter an 11-inch quiche pan with a
removable bottom. Find and set aside a bowl 1 to 2
inches smaller than the opening in the quiche pan.
Place the pastry in the pan and ease it into place
around the bottom and side without stretching it.
With kitchen shears, trim it so that an even inch
extends beyond the pan rim. Fold in this inch of
pastry to form a double thickness on the side of the
pan. Press it firmly into place, so that the pastry
extends abour-/+ inch above the rim to allow for
shrinkage during baking. Pinch the pastry to give it a
decorative edge (fig. 1, page 16). Prick all over the
bottom and side with a fork. Refrigerate for 30
minutes, or until firm.
While the pastry chills, start the onion filling. Cut
the onions into pieces that willfit the feed tube of the
processor. Sliceihem with the medium slicing disc,
using moderate pressure.
Melt the remaining butter in a large saut6 or frying
pan over moderately low heat. Add the onion slices,
cover them with waxed paper and cook for 10
minutes . Remove the waxed paper and, stirring
frequently, continue to cook for 10 to 15 minutes
more, until the onions are completely softened. They
must not brown. Remove the onions from the pan
and set them aside.
In the same pan over moderately low heat, cook the
bacon strips until they are lightly browned but not
crisp, about 6 to 8 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Set the oven rack to the middle level;preheat to400oF.
 a

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Shrimp Wrapped in Leaves with Cauiar Beune Blanc

Tart

Iayered Tmine Mixed Vegetables, Broccoli and Liuer Pittt

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Fish and Leek Mousseline with Red Wine Sauce Mussels in Their Own Sauce
 Line the chilled pastry shell with parchment paper
or aluminum foil and filIit with dried beans or rice.
Bake for 12 minutes. Remove the beans and paper
from the shell, prick the p.astry again with a fork and
bake 10 minutes more, or until the pastry is lightly
colored. Remove it from the oven and decrease the
oven temperature to 300oF.
Put the metal blade in the processor and add the
eggs, cream, milk, salt, nutmeg and black pepper to
taste. Turn the machine on and off3 times to combine
the ingredients thorougtrly. Do not overmix. Taste
for seasoning, remembering that bacon is salty.
Place the reserved onions and bacon strips in the hot
pastry crust. Carefully pour the filling mixture into
the pie crust, filling it within Vainchofthe top edge.
Evenly scatter the tomato strips and basil on top. Bake
in the 300'F. oven for 55 to 60 minutes, until browned
and puffy. Let the tart rest on a wire iack for 10
minutes. Before serving it, place the pan on the
reserved bowl and remove the outer piece ofthe pan
by pulling down.
Makes 12 first-course or 6 to 8 main-course
servings. (See photo, page 15.)
Pite Bris6e
11lz sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut
tnto 72 pieces
1 largeegg
2 tablespoons cold water
/a teaspoon salt
19l+ cups (9 ounces) unoleached all-purpose flour
Put the butter, egg, water and salt in the bowl of
a processor with the metal blade. Turn the machine
on and off 6 times and then leave the motor
running for 5 seconds to mix the ingredients. Do
not be concerned if small lumps of butter remain.
Add the flour. Process just until the dough begins
to come together. Do not overprocess.
Put the dough, including the little scraps that
remain on the bottom ofthe bowl, in a plastic bag.
Press the dough together into a ball and then flatten it
into a disc. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight
before use.
,EiSF:
ffil.'
5€:..
,:rrii$
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1. Pinchingthe edge oJthe pastry.
16 The Pleasures of Cooking
LAYERED TERRINE OF MIXED
VEGETABLES, BROCCOLI AND
LIVER PATE
La Galantine de L6gumes au Foie de Volaille
A highly original combination ofingredients, this dish most
boldly bears Girardet's signature. He prepares the dish with
foie gras; l've substituted a mousse of chkken liuers. Do not
expect the terine to slice neatly into intact portions: the uery
charm of this dish is that it is not one solid mass. You may
haue to reaffange each slice slightly on its plate be-;fore
serving. Girardet sometimes serves the tenine on its own, at
other times with gamishes such as sliced red cabbage and,
perhaps , strips of endive . He dresses his cabbage with
hazelnut oil; I haue substituted walnut oil.
Terrine
total), peeled
3 thick ends ofcarrots (5 ounces
and cut to fit the processor feed tube
2 medium turnips (4 ounces total), peeied
% pound uniform size green beans, trimmed
3/: cups broccoli florets (about 6 ounces total)
2 cups parsley leaves
7 ounces uncooked white chicken meat
/:. cttp heavy cream, chilled
1 large egg white
1/z teaspoon salt
% teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
4large chicken livers (4 ounces total)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room
temperature
1 large egg
V/alnut Vinaigrette (recrpe follows)
Garnish
/t cup walnuts
6-ounce wedge red cabbage, cored
6 small radishes, trimmed
5 tablespoons Walnut Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley, for garnish
4 Belgian endives, washed and cut intojulienne
strips (optional)
Generously butter a 1-quart terrine mold or pyrex
loafpan. Cut a piece of parchmert ,japer to fit the
bottom ofthe mold. Butter the';';iper a.d sprinkle the
sides of the mold and paper witi, ..rlt and freshly
ground black pepper. Refrigerate the mold while
preparing the terrine.
Fifteen minutes before baking, adjust the rack to the
middle ofthe oven and preheat to 250"F.
Preparing the mixed vegetables
In a 3-quart saucepan, bring 2 quarts ofwater and 1
tablespoon salt to a boil. Cook the carrots 6 minutes.
 Lift them out ofthe w2rer rrzith . .l^**^r
with a slotted spoon' rinse
them under cold ruJ,lter Cut a i.iece of oarchment-paper
ro fit the top ofthe
3* w-r;;;,#ffi.X,ffi .]l:: ::f#: mold and burter tne side. place
morsture possible. Using the
as
same p.*.du.., .ook
;:H i:, down, on rhe rerrine.
it, butered
c =;;;;;ilffi;, sidewith
the urnips 12 minures, lid or a piece offoii (frg. a
,h. g*il;;Jr'5"il.,irr,"r 5).
1 cup of the broccoli Ror.tr rrd
S *ir;;.;*.re \\,arer Cooking the terrine
Cut the carrots r"a r".rrip, Take a pan lari1e.l:ygh
irio 1_inch dice (1,ou to hold the mold and with
can use the French frv disc a n.r.."riir. .l.g.rrUt., 3 to ,t inche! and tin"e irwithl
into /+-inch s,-ips). Line.rp
31des
Heat 1 lz.to 2quarts or_rr.,
i,,J.,rl"*r.
rh. g.* il;;", a board ,o b"rir"*.'n-"ir our the
and cut thenr into %_inch oven rack parr wav and
pi.d;;;;i ,, ,n. place ,h.l;";e;n
broccoliflorets into small
Diece. w;;,1;
the pan with 1 inch ofborli;*;;;;5or'." it. Fill
,n.
vegeta bles in paper
ro *.rr'r"
R^efrigerate undi ready
lir..u :: :': jl;r*. terrine on rhe towel.
Add mE..;;iil;"#;:,
bring water tevel to within ,"
ofabout 3 cups ofvegetables.
,. ,r..-v., ,rr.;;;r". a roral
mold. Carefuily push u".r.
;;.1";f ,f;.l., .rrn.
,lr. ,i.;;il.;;i. rhc or.en
Bake t hour 1i minutes,
until firm. Chill ovc .night.
Preparing the broccoli
puree
Brinr, the reserved-war.. Preparing the garnish
,olUoit and cook the
remairu.. g t/: 2 cuos of.broccot
Chop the walnuts in the
i,1;;;;;rb. ; n r ir u res, or processor with the metal

il',,j.' :l,rT:T il1 "-t

*n ;
;; J,.^;;ri'u n'i" g
r blade, turning the machin.;;.iJ;rr;
Ttunly slice the cabbage o., ,,,rr..
and radishes-i;; ;",
,,d.q ;;;. ;;l ;; H:i thin sticing disc. ptaciig us rhe
#Ji",,,.T ;:ijn:,o*!r, rh".;#;,]ll,ljr,r,,, ,,
Place rhe 2 cups
in the boiling ,o-are."rprrrt.y
ir; ;;#; ;_merse it fe fega tube and rhe.riirf,.,
Combine all ingredien"
*,r;ilffi
f in, fr.g;_iJ"u
;;o,;il';: [,ii.::;:::i{;il: repea, rh e Prepare the vinaisrt O.*,
wtrn rhe
metal blade, process 3 ounces
*i,n,'u",,'s;Jii#-j::[;l$:T:*?:nishi,ix,ure
chicken for 10 seconds, ofthe
stopping,h. _rlhlr.
scrape down the side ortr,. uo*lt. once ro Serving the Terrine
alJii.
parslel.and process fo. ju
.."r.a With a flexi ble kniG or small
_OJ::-,iand
the machine runnins.
..""r0r. With separate the terrine
spatuJ t. carefull
v
drizzterfr....r_ ,fr-u*n from the sides of ;ne
mold.
th" onto a platter and slice In vert
th.."gg white, 1 reaspool rnto B S .1ngs Garni
,T:.**:L1,
reaspoon of nutmeg, cf sati % platter or individual servlng sh the
s piares w1 th the prepared
seconfl
$;;;;
assemble the terrine.
;:ff,r. xffi ;:: :;. .::;;"t cab bage mtxture, chopt.,i,
Makes 8 servlngs See
parsley and B elgian endi
photo, p age 15.
ve
(continued)

Making the liver

-or'rjru
With the metal blarie,,iu:*
rhe remaining chicken
tiu"',' o;* .**,
nH::f:ilfl: ;f 't'i't" nutmeg and some
pepper. Process 1,r r..:ltfoon ma chine
once ro scrape r. *, fJ:';.':?{[:.f, li
,
Assembling the terrine
Use the back ofa:
pfi ;* .-*;lffi:
the broccoti puree(fio.
ilil'lt;i::l ilL.,,. ?
lki"c the mold with brorcoli pufee 3. Dieed
broccoli wirh rhe mii.a
2). Combi;;;;__ri"fi;, with puree

ofthis mixrure in themoldl"a

;.*.";;;;i;gl:i. prr.. r,,rr
place with the back
,p..)a"i, d.mly into
I ,h.;;;",T.*;i'.*t
coating "f to not
of broccoli. Sp.eal all
*:,:::..".
pate umformly over of the liver
remaining vegetable
thi.s layer
tng. +f . alall.
mrxture, using the back
ofthe
i'*r*:.:m:',[:il:#t;:il,fii:;i#xl:H:.
l^aymng phtt ouef uepetables <
 Walnut Vinaigrette Put the oil in a large saut6 or frying pan placed over
high heat. Cook the shrimp in their shells, turning
2 tablespoons walnut oil them frequently until theyjust begin to look opaque:
3/+ cup plus 2 tablespoons safflower oil, or 1 cup of you want them slightly undercooked so that they will
any preferred oil combination
be perfectly cooked after reheating. Remove each
/z cup minus 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
shrimp as it is cooked. Let the shrimp cool; then shell
1 teaspoon salt
them and devein them.
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Bring2 quarts ofwater to a boil with 1 tablespoon
Freskrly ground black pepper
salt. Have a bowl ofice water ready beside the stove.
Put all the ingredients in a processor with the metal Boil4 cabbage leaves at a time until tender but not
blade. Process 2 seconds to mix. soft, about 8 minutes. Remove them with a slotted
Makes about 1/z cups. spoon to the ice water. Y/hen all the leaves are cooked
and cooled, drain them and blot dry with paper
SHRIMP WRAPPED IN CABBAGE towels. Cut out any tough core parts.
LEAVES WITH CAVIAR BEURRE Arrange all the leaves on a board, outer sides down.
BLANC Season lightly with salt and pepper. Divide the shrinrp
Les Feuilles de Chou Farcies de Crevettes au into 8 equal portions. Place a portion in the middle of
Beurre de Beluga a ieaf. Fold in the bottom, then the sides and top to

A dish ofaustere beauty, this recipe is understandably one of
the creations that haue broughtfame to Girardet. Many cheJs
both in the lJnited States and in Europe haue since come up
with their own versions.
lf you cannot get jumbo shrimp (fi7. 6), buy the largest
you can-enough to total just ouer a pound. The dish is
exquisite enough to merit the purchase of a small jar of the
finest mviarfor the sauce; the cauiar adds a necessary delicate
salty accent. But if you do not want to buy caviar, do not be
put offrom making the dish: you will also get good resuhs
withlumpfishroe.
The shrimp packets canbe assembled in aduance and
cook ed j ust
b efor e s eru ing.
2 tablespoons oil
1 pound 2 ounces very large shrimp in the shell
(16jumbo shrimp)
8 lirge outside loose leaves of cabbage (to get
enough attractive, dark green leaves you wili
probably need 2 cabbages)
Salt and frestrly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter, at
room temperature
Caviar Beurre Blanc (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons finely diced pimiento
make a neat packet. Repeat with the remaining leaves
and shnmp. Butter an B-inch baking dish with 1
teaspoon butter. Place the packets folded sides down
in the dish. Dot them with the remaining butter. The
packets can be prepared in advance to this point,
covered airtight and refrigerated. (Let them come to
room temperature before baking.)
Preheat the oven to 475"F. Cover the baking dish
lighdy with foil. Bake for 8 minutes, until thoroughly
heated. Arrange on a serving platter or place 2 packets
on each individual serving p1ate. Spoon 1 tablespoon
of the Caviar Beurre Blanc over each packet. Garnish
with the pimiento.
Makes 8 servings. (See photo, page 15.)
Caviar Beurre Blanc
1 ounce shallots (1 large or 2 medium), peeled
3 tablespoons whire wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fish stock or clam broth
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut
into 15 pieces
I tablespoon black caviar
Pinch ofcayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To mince the shallot, put the metal blade in the

processor, turn it on and drop the shailot through the
feed tube.
Put the minced shallot, vinegar and fish stock or
clam broth in a 1-quart saucepan. Cook over
moderately high heat until the liquid has reduced by
? !- half. Strain out the shallots, return the liquid to the
pan and reduce to 1 tablespoon. Still over moderately
high heat, add 3 butter pieces at a time and whisk
continuously until the butter is absorbed before
adding more butter. When all the butter has melted,
6. Main ingredienufor Shimp Wrapped in Cabbage Leaues

18 The Pleasures of Cooking

 add th_e caviar and cayenne, and salt and pepper to
taste. Set the sauce aside on a warm ,to,r. oi1., , p"r,
ofwarm water. Ifyou must reheat it, do it over low
heat, whisking constantly.
FISH AND LEEK MOUSSELINE WITH
RED U/INE SAUCE
La Poisson et de Poireau au
Vin Rouge, de Leurs Filets
A red wine sauce with jsh may seem utrusudl. But the taste
combination is delicious and the color contrast uiuidly
beautiJul.
Ifyou wish to serue this dkh as an appetizer rather than
as a main course, prepare the mousselines on their own.
you do , you will need 2 ounces ofish jllet trimmings to
make the mousselines.
Howeuer you serue this recipe, the mousselines may be
prepared and cooked in aduance. Refigerate them unmolded
on a platter lined with paper or oiled aluminum
foil . Before
serving, warm them briejy in Wgetable Stock
irecipe in
page 20).
11l+ pounds fish fillets (sea bass, grouper, red
snapper, wall-eyedpike or halibut), trimmed
into
18 or24 tapercd strips depending on size
and shape
1 small leek (about 4 ounces), including greens
lz stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut
into 4 pieces
2 largeeggs
Generous pinch ofcayenne pepper
.
% teaspoon salt
i/+ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
% cup heavy cream
2 gups Vegetable Stock (recipe on page 20)
Red Wine Sauce (recipe follows)
1 small scallion, thinly sliced and rings separated
Trim the fish fillets first and reserve
2 ounces
trimmings for the mousseline.
Cut the leek in half lengthwise and wash it
thoroughly. In 2 quarts ofboiling water with 1
teaspoon of salt, cook the leek until tender and soft,
about B to 10 minutes. Rinse it immediately under
cold running water until it is cold to rhe rouch.
Wrap it in paper towels and remove as rnuch moisture
as possible.
Generously butter six/z-cttp timbale molds or
custard cups. Line a pan large enough to hold the
timbale molds with a folded kitchen rowel. Fill with
hot_water to a depth of 1 inch. place the prepared
"bain marie" over moderately high heat. pr'eheat
the
oven at 375"F. and ser the rack in the middle of the
oven. Bring 2 quarts ofwater to a simmer in a tea
kettle.
Process 2 ounces ofthe fish and cooked leek wirh
the metal blade until pureed, stopping the machine
once ro scrape down the side of the bowl. Add the
butter, eggs and seasonings. process about 2 minutes,
until the mixrure is fluffy and uniformly mixed,
stopping the machine once ro scrape down the side of
the bowl. With an electric mixer, whip the cream until
it is soft but not firm. Fold this whipped cream inro
the fish mixrure.
Divide the mousseline equally among the molds.
Knock each on the counter to settle the mixture. place
the molds in the bain marie. Bring it to a boil and
carefully rransGr it to the oven rack. Slorvly pour
lf water from the tea kettle to within 1 inch oithe top of
the molds. Poach rhe remaining fiilets in three batches
in simmering Vegetable Srock while the mousselines
bake. Lift out the fillets with a slotted spoon after
about 1 minute, when opaque. Keep them warm until
serving time.
Bake the mousselines for 20 to 22 minutes, until
they are lightlv coiored and feel firm, but not hard, to
the rouch. Remove rhe pan from the oven and take
the moids out of rhe pan. Let them rest 5 minutes on
the counter; then invert each one onto a plate. Arrange
the poached fish filiets around them. Serve
immediately with Red Wine Sauce, garnished
sparingly with scallions.
Makes 6 servings. (See photo, page 15.)
Red Vine Sauce
/+ cup dry red wine
lz cup fish stock or clamjuice
* gO Vegetable Stock (recipe on page 20)
1 large shallot (1 ounce), minced
5 tablespoons unsaired butter, chilled and cut into
5 pieces
/s teaspoon sugar
ofthe
Pinch ofcayenne pepper
Pinch of salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a heavy 2-quart, srainless steel saucepan, boil the
red wine, fish stock, Vegetabie Stock and rhe minced
shallot until the liquid is reduced to abour /z cop.
Strain out rhe shallot. Return the liquid to the
saucepan and cook until it measures 3 tablespoons.
fle s-auce can be prepared in advance to this point.
V/hisk in the pieces ofbutter one by one untiithey are
melted. Add rhe seasonings. Keep the sauce over
w_arm rvater if you are not serving it immediately.
The warm sauce can be gently re-heated over
direct heat.
19
 BROILED SCALLOPS ON SHELLS
Coquilles St. Jacques Grill6es
This is o* of Girardet's very simplest recipes-yet it
indcscribably delicious. The scallops can be prepared in
aduance, arranged in their shells with the sauce, ready
cooking. Keep them refigerated and , just before seruing,
broil then as instructed.
1 cup Vegetable Stock (recipe follows)
14 ounces large sea scallops
lltll 1 % cups heavy cream
lz tetspoondried thyme
Freshly ground white pepper to tastc
Lightly butter 6large scallop shells or 4-itrch wide :
gratin dishes.
In an S-inch skillet bring the Vegetable Stock to a
boil. Reduce the heat so that the liquid simmers.
Poach half the scallops for abour 35 seconds. orjust
until they turn opaque at the edges. Immediately
remove them with a slotted spoon and drain on paper
towels. Repeat with the remaining scallops'
Reduce the liquid over high heat to 1 tablespoon'
Add the cream and reduce over moderately high heat
to /+ cup. Add the thyme, taste and season with salt
and pepper.
Cut the scallops in halfhorizontally. Divide into 6
equal portions. Arrange each portion on a shell.
Spoon 2 tablespoons ofthe sauce over each shell.
Just before serving, set a broiler rack 6 inches belot'
the preheated broiling element. Place the sheils on a
mdtal baking sheet and broil for 4 to 5 minutes, until
the tops are lightly browned. Serve immediatelv.
' Makes 6 servings. (See photo, page 15.)
-MUSSELS IN THEIR OWN SAUCE
Moules i la Nage
The delicacy o;f Cirarde|s touch is especially evidenr
appetizer. The potatoes, processed with the brttth tlnr
moistens each serving, are uirtually undetectable, IentlinQ tlrc
liquid a light, velu ety srnoothness.
64 mussels
2 tablespoons salt
3 small new potatoes (about /: pound), unpeeled
4 cups Vegetable Stock (recipe follows) or 2 cups
bottled clam juice and 2 cuPs water
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cur
into 8 pieces
Salt and lrestrly ground black pepper to taste
lzlarge (5-ounce)leek, including the green
top-split lengthwise, washed and thinly sliced
(about % cup)
Wash the mussels under cold running water. Discard
any with shells that open. Cover the mussels with
n The Pleasures of Cooking
cold water, add the 2 tablespoons of salt and let them
sit for % hour.
is While the mussels are soaking, cook the potatoes in
water to cover for 20 to25 minutes, or until soft.
for Drain the mussels and scrub them clean. Remove
the "beards" by rubbing one mussel against another,
or m them off rvith a Small sharo knife.
ln .4.-quart pot bring the v.g.'tfrto.k to a boil
der'a tely high heat. Add the m ussels cover
and steam for 3 to 5 minutes, until all the shells
.ve
opened Discard an v m ussels that remaln closed.
,lmove the mussels wl rh a slotted spoon Boil the
r"rid 1n the pot until 1t 1S reduced to 3 3/+ cups
Peel the warm, cooked potatoes. Use the shredding
disc rvith light pressure to process the potatoes. Insert
the metal blade. Add lz cup of the mussel cooking
liquid to the potatoes. Process for about 30 seconds,
until the mixture is completely smooth.
Stir this potato mixture into the remaining liquid in
the pot. Cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes.
Whisk in the butter, 1 piece at a time, adding each
piecejust as the previous one melts. Adjust the
seasoning and add the mussels in their shells to the
broth. Cook over moderate heat for 3 minutes. Serve
immediately, garnished with the sliced leek.
Makes B servings. (See photo, page 15.)
VEGETABLE STOCK
Fond de L6gumes
,''.1he extensive use of uegetable stock-for ooking is a Cirardet
- innovation. This mild-fauored stock is extremely versatile.
Watever dish it is used in, it adds a subtle backdrop of
fiauor.
4 large leeks (about 114 pounds), cleaned
4 carrots (about 12 ounces)
4 celery ribs (about 12 ounces)
in rltis
2 tomatoes (about 12 ounces), halveci and seeded
2 large bunches parsley
3 garlic cloves, peeled
2 bay leaves
6 black peppercorns
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
4 quarts water
Put all the ingredients in an 8- to 1U-quart stockpot.
Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer,
uncovered, for 1'h hours.
Strain the stock and press out as much moisture as
possible from the vegetables. Discard the vegetables.
The stock may be stored in the refrigerator, covered,
for a week to 10 days; in plastic containers in the
freezer, it will keep indefinitely.
Makes about 5 quarts.

E
for 12 minutes. While they are cooking, melt 2
tablespoons ofthe butter in an 8-inch skillet. Add the
mushrooms and saut6 them over moderate heat,
stirring, until they are soft, about 5 minutes' Remove
from the heat.
Cut the carrot pieces into /c-tnchdice. Add them to
the mushrooms. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of
butter and toss to mix well.
When the lima beans are done, drain them itrto a
colander and iinie under cold running water' Remove
the skin from each bean b1' gelltly squeezing the outer
edge with the thumb and lorefinger until the skin slips
offand the tender bean pops ol1t. Add the iima beans
to the mushrooms and carrots and toss to coat them
with butter. Season u-ith sa1t. pepper and nutmeg'
The onion cups and vegetable filling can be prepared
in advance up to this Point.
To finish the dish. season the insides of the onions
with salt and pepper. Fiil each cup generously with the
buttered vegetable mi srure.
Arrange the stutled onions in an 8-inch skillet with
a lid. Add 1:tnchof rvater to the pan. Bring to a boil,
cover and cook over moderate heat until the ouions
are tender and the vegetables are heated throught
about6to8nrinutes.
Makes 8 servirrgs.
SAUTEED PARSLEY
La R6duction de Persil
I had neuer seen parsley cooked
Before my uisits to Cirardet,
this way. lt was a reuelarion' TheJlavor is diuine: parsley
has neuer tasted so good,
3t
3 quarts water
2 teaspoons salt
2/+ pounds parsley (about 10 bunches), stems
trimmed
B medium shallots (about 3 ounces total), peeled
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups heavy cream
Freshly ground black pePPer
In large pot, bring the water with the salt to a boil.
a RED PEPPER AND PARSLEY
Add the parsley leaves. When the boil resumes, adjust
jt
the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered for 5
I minutes, stirring the parsley a few times rvith a
wooden spoon. Drain immediately and rinse the
il parsley under cold running water until it is completely
G
cool. Wrap it in a towel and squeeze out as much
moisture as possible.
Fit a processor with the metal blade and turn on the
machine. Drop the shallots through the feed tube to
mince them.
In a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, melt the
butteg. Add the shallots and cook 10 minutes, until
I
they are softened. Add the parsley and mix
thoroughly. Cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally'
Addlhe cream and cook over moderately low heat,
stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has
evaporated. Reduce the heat to low and continue to
cook, stirring, until all excess liquid has evaporated'
Adjust the seasoning and serve. For pur6ed parsley,
pro..r, the completed mixture for 5 seconds with the
metal blade.
Makes about 8 servings. (See photo, page 25')
CARROTS FOR GARNISH
Carottes pour Garniture
By this culinary sleight of hand, Girardet transJonns
ordinary, sttfuby carrots ittto perJect, beautiful garnishes'
21 large carrots with greens
Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Frestrly ground black PePPer
Trim offall but 1 inch of the greens on each carrot'
Cut offthe tapered end of each carrot, leaving the
carrot 2 inches long'
With sharp paring knife, shape each 2-inch carrot
a
piece with greens into a miniature carrot: hold the
ia.rot up.ight and pare it towards its lower end,
rotating the carrot as you work, to taper it to a
uniform point.
Bring 2 quarts of water and 1 teaspoon of salt to a
boil. Cook the carrots for about 6 minutes, until
tender but still slightly crisp. Drain them in a
colander; rinse under cold running water until the
carrots are completely cold. Set them aside.
At serving time, melt the butter in an B-inch skillet
over high heat. Add the carrots and cook for about 4
minutes, shaking the pan to avoid burning, until the
carrots are heated. Season with salt and pepper'
Makes 6 to B servings as a garnish. (See photo,
page24.)
BROILED FISH WITH PIMIENTO,
Le Poisson Grill6 au Piments et au Persil
Cirardet loues this dkh. On my first visit to his restaurant,
he prepared euery portion of it himself. And no wonder:
uiuid
it's a
uisual
combination offauors, with startlingly
-faiulius
appeal. At Cirardet's, the dish is prepared on a grill (fiq' 13);
Ihaue adapted the recipe for the home broiler.
Get yourfish shop to bone the two wholefishfor you'
And do try to find the optional pink peppercoms ' Relative
newcomers to the seasoning scene these dry, slightly sweet
'
and crunchy berries add unmistakable character to tlrc dish'
Many gourmetfood shops now carry them.
(continued)
23

Two 3-pound whole red snappers, trout or sea bass
with head and tail attached, boned
Vegetable oil
Coarse salt
Frestrly ground black pepper
4 shallots, peeled and cut in half
4 tablespoons (% stick) unsalted butter
2 jarc (4 ounces each) pimientos
/+ cup Vegetable Stock (recipe on page 20)
% teaspoon salt
1 small red bell pepper (about 3 ounces), peeled
with a vegetable peeler and cut into /+-inch dice
1 tablespoon pink peppercorns, crushed
(optional)
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives or parsley
V/ash the fish and pat dry with paper towels. Oil the
entire surface of each. Sprinkle one side with coarse
salt and pepper.
Line a broiler pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil
or a double thickness of regular. Place the pan 6 inch-es
'!7hen
from the heat and preheat the broiler. the pan is
hot, carefirlly remove it and oil the foil generously.
Sprinkle it with coarse salt. Put the fish seasoned side
down on the foil. Sprinkle the tops with coarse salt
and pepper.
Return the pan to the broiler and broil for 5 to 10
minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, until
the top side is firm but not hard. Turn the fish gently
by rolling it over with the aid of the foil. Broil for 3 to
5 minutes longer, until the second side is firm but not
hard. Transfer to a warm serving platter and cover
with aluminum foil while you prepare the sauce'
Insert the metal blade in your processor. Turn on
the machine and drop the shallots through the feed
tube. Process until minced, scraping down the side of
the bowl as necessary.
In a 7-inch skillet, melt 2 tablesp-oons of the butter
over moderately high heat. Add the shallots and cook,
stirring, for 3 minutes until soft but not brown.
Use the metal blade to process the pimientos with
their liquid until smooth, about 30 seconds. Add the
Vegetable Stock and process for 5 seconds. Heat this
pimiento mixture in the skillet with the shallots.
13. at Cirardet\
26 The Pleasures of Cookins
with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to keep I
Season
the mixture warm.
In another small skillet, melt the remaining
2 tablespoons ofbutter over moderately high heat.
I
Add the diced red pepper and the crushed pink I
peppercorns. Cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes. just j
until warm.
Sprinkle the red peppers and pink peppercorns over I
the fish. Spoon the warm pimiento sauce around the
fish. Sprinkle with chives and garnish the platter with
Buttered Whole Scallions (recipe follows).
Makes 6 servings. (See photo, pages24-25.)
BUTTERED WHOLE SCALLIONS
Ciboules au Beurre
Akhough popular in the 18th century, the smllion has been
out in European cookery for almost a hundred
ffishion
years. Cirardet has been instrumental in its reuiual in
French cookery.
To achieue the almost Oriental beauty of this
presentation, and to ensure euen cooking, it is important tltat
the scallions all be of the same size: you lnay haue to buy
more than the required quantity to get three dozen unifonn
scallions.
36large (/z-ounce each) scallions
2 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and frestrly ground black pepper to season
Leave the roots on each scallion, and trim offall but 2
inches of the green. With kitchen string, tie the
scallions into bunches of6.
Put the water and salt in a 4-quart saucepan. Bring
to a boil over high heat. Add the scallion bunches and
cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the white ends arejust
tender. Drain. Rinse the scallions under cold running
water until they are cold. Wrap them in paper towels.
'When
you are ready to serve them, melt the butter
in an 11-inch skillet over high heat. Cut the strings
from the scallion bunches and add the scallions to the
skillet. Cook quickly, shaking the pan to avoid
burning, until the scallions are hot and evenly
coated-about 4 to 5 minutes. Season.
Makes 6 servings. (See photo, page24.)
GRATIN OF POTATOES AND TURNIPS
Gratin de Pommes de Terre et de Navets
Since Cirardet popularized this con$itrution, many
restaurants that once prided themselues on their straight
potato dishes now serue grdtirrs sitnilar to this. The e-ffect is
subtle, the turnips adding a mild backgrotrnd sweetness to the
potato's fiavor without really announcing their presenrc.
The gratin is excellent with beef, lamh or chicken.
 Accompany w,ith the Lime Sauce. Garnish each fillet with a lime slice. place the fillets
Makes B servings. (See photo, page25.) on a serving platter. Spoon the Lime Sauce sparingly
over them.
GingerMixture Makes 8 servings. (See photo, page25.)
1 piece fresh ginger (1/: ounces), peeled
1 teaspoon lime zest, removed with a zester Ginger Butter Mixture
t 2 largeshallots (1 /: ounces total), peeled 1 piece fresh ginger (1% ounces), peeled
% teaspoon salt
t 1 teaspoon lime zest, removed with a zester
1 teaspoon fresh limejuice 2 largeshallors (1 /z ounces total), peeled
Lay the ginger horizontallv in the Ged tube of a /z stickunsalted burter (2 ounces), at room
processor with the shredding disc. Shred, using light temperature
pressure. Remove the shredder and insert the metal % teaspoon salt
blade. Add the lime zesr ro the bowl. Turn rhe I teaspoon fresh limejuice
machine on and drop rhe shallots through the feed Follow the above recipe for the Ginger Mixture,
tube. Add the sait and limejuice and process until the adding the butter to the processor at rhe same rime as
mixture is finel,v chopped. Transfer the mixture to a the salt and limejuice. Process until the mixrure is
small bowl. smooth. Transfer the mixture to a small skillet and
cook over low heat for 5 minutes. This can be done in
Lime Sauce advance.
2 tablespoons fresh limejuice
/+ cup plus 3 tablespoons white port
1/z sticks (6 ounces) unsalted buter, chilled and cut
into tablespoon-size pieces
In a l-quart saucepan, cook the limejuice and port
over moderately high heat until the liquid.is reduced
to 1 tablespoon. Add the butter, piece by piece,
shaking the pan and stirring until each piece melts
before adding the next. The sauce can be kept warm
for 1 to 2 hours in a container set in warm water.

BROILED FISHFILLETS U/ITH GINGER

AND LIME SAUCE ouer to

Les Filets de Poisson Grill6s, Sauce au

Gingembre et au Citron Vert
The-presentation "en papillote" described aboue is highly
professional, beauti;ful and worthy of a dktinguished
restaurant. But you can achieye all the taste and texture of
thk recipe without the papillote, and you'll saue time and
ffirt. The only diference in ingredients is the butter added to
the Cinger Mixture.
Make the Ginger Butter Mixture as described in the
recipe that follows. Make the Lime Sauce (see recipe 15. InJlating a papillote at Cirardet's
above).
Preheat the broiler. Wash the fish fillets and pat
them dry with paper towels. Rub them with oI and
season generously with salt and pepper. put the fillets
I- on a greased broiler rack, skin side up, and broil g
inches from the heat for 3 minutes. Turn the fillets and
brush them with the Ginger Butter Mixture. Broil
about 5 minutes, or until the fish is firm to the touch
but not yet flaky.

16. Individual baking

29

Desserts
FRUITS IN SYRUP
Girardet's genius for gettirry spectacular resultsfom the
simplest of combinations is clearly evidenthere. Although
I prepared with the same base synry , each of tlte -fruit dishes
tastes remarkably dffirent j'om the other. Witlr the exception
n
oJthe bananas, they all keep uer), u,ell, too. (See
opposite .)
DATES IN RUM SYRUP
Dattes au Sirop
Do not use packaged dates; the1, are too s1L)eet
-for this recipe
Use fesh dates, sold loose in nnny g7hv1i5 markets,
1 pound2 ounces dates (about3% cups)
|Vz cups Vanilla Sugar Sr-rup (recipe follows)
Vz cup dark rum
Bring all ingredients to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan.
Simmer for 2 mrnutes. uncovered. Transfer the
contents to a bow1. Let cool to room temperature.
Cover the bowl airtight and refrigerate the dates at
least 2 days before serving. They will keep at least
2 weeks.
Makes6to8servings.
l,
PRUNES IN WINE SYRUP
Pruneaux au Sirop
{
You can use pitted or unpitted prLnrcs ) ds you pre;fcr.
1 pound 2 ounces prunes (about 3% cups)
1 cup Vanilla Sugar Svrup (recipe follorvs)
/z cup drr.red u'ine
/z cttp rubv port
Zest oi l orange. removed u,ith a zester
Follow the above recipe for rhe dates. The prunes may
be served as soorl as thev are co1d.
Makes6to8servings.
SLICED BANANAS IN SYRUP
Bananes Etninc6es au Sirop
4 frm but ripe large bananas (6 ounces
peeled and cut into 2-inch lengths
3 tablespoons fresh lemonjuice
( Place the 8 pineapple segments side by side in a
1 cup Vanilla Sugar Syrup (recipe follows)
Zests of /zlitl;.e, /zlemon andVz orange,
removed in long strips with a zester
r container airtight and refrigerate at least 3 hours. The
Place the bananas vertically in the Ged tube of a
processor fitted with the medium slicing disc. Slice
the fruit using light pressure. Transfer the slices to a
bowl. Add the lemonjuice, syrup and zest. Mix
gently but thorougtrly. Cover the bowl airtight and
refrigerate for several hours. The bananas will not
discolor if they are covered by the liquid. Serve with
several strips of the zest affatTged over the bananas.
Makes6to8servings.
ORANGE SEGMENTS IN SYRUP
Tranches d'Orange au Sirop
Crenadine can be purchased fon wine or liquor shops ,
plnto, 6 largenavel oranges
/: cup ltresh orangejuice
/+ cup Vanilla Sugar Syrup (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons grenadine syrup
1 tablespoon fresh lemonjuice
With a zester, remove the zest of 2 of the oranges in
long strips. Reserve the zest.
Cut the ends of al1of the oranges flat. Set each
orange on a flat end on a cutting board. With a sharp
knife, slice off the peel and pith in strips. Make sure all
the pith is removed. Then, holding the orange in your
hand, remove the segments by cutting along the
membranes with a sharp knife.
In a bowl, gently mix the segments, the reserved
zest and all the remaining ingredients. Cover tightly
and refrigerate for 3 hours before serving.
Makes6to8servings.
SLICED PINEAPPLE IN THE SHELL
IiAnanas Eminc6 dans son Ecorce
For theJullest blending ofJlauors between the pineapple and
the syrup, use the smallest dish that will accommodate all the
pineapple shells.
1 large ripe pineapple (about 4 pounds), leaves and
skin thorougtrly washed
2 tablespoons fresh lemonjuice
1 cup Vanilla Sugar Syrup (recipe follows)
Zests of /zlime, /zlemon and/zorange,
removed in long strips with. a zester
Cut offthe green top of the pineapple, reserving 6
long leaves. Cut the pineapple in quarters lengthwise;
then cut each quarter in half to get 8 segments.
Using a sharp knife, cut the pineapple flesh in a
single piece from each shell. Reserve the B shells. Cut
each),
each pineapple wedge into /:-inch-thick slices.
Reassemble the slices and replace them on the shells.
shallow container. Mix the remaining ingredients
together and pour them over the pineapple. Cover the
pineapple will keep in the refrigerator at least 3 days.
At serving time, place the wedges and syrup in a
large serving bowl and garnish with the reserved
pineapple leaves.
Makes 6 to 8 servings. (rcntinued)
3i
---
:

VANILLA SUGAR SYRUP Cirardet prepares a single large soffib to serve two. I'ue
adapted the recipeJor indiuidual soufi\s.
2% cups sugar
I asked Girardet and his staf to suggest substitutes for
2 quarts water
passionfruit. The mixture ofkiwi andlime juice here giues
12 inches vanilla bean, split and scraped
the soffi6 afabulous taste. You could also use lime juice
Put all the ingredients in al o ne, I emon j u i ce o r-my
a saucepan. Bring to a boil Jau o ri te-orange j u i c e
and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the syrup from concentrate. Instructions for all these uariations follow the t
the heat and let it cool to room temperature; then main recipe.
refrigerate it. Before use, strain out the vanilla bean
% cup plus 2 tablespoons pureed kiwi fruit,
through a double thickness of wet cheesecloth.
strained of all seeds (3 kiwi fruits weighing
Makes 5/zcups.
about 9 ounces total)
KIWIFRUIT SOUFFLE 1 tablespoon fresh limejuice
Souffl6 au Kiwi 2 large egg yolks
Cirardet uses the following method to make a soufi| 5 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
delicately flavored with passionJruit. It elicits extraordinary 4 large egg whites, at room temperature
raues. The soffit's very sofi texture is the resub of starting 2 teaspoons confectioner's sugar
i* cooking uery gently on the stouetop; to get the desired Set the oven rack in the lowbr third ofthe oven. place
results, you should be extremely carefil the cooking
to follow a cookie sheet on the rack. Preheat the oven to 4fi)'F.
instructions to" the letter. Prepare a bain-marie large enough to hold four or
five/z cup souffl6 dishes. Line the bomom ofthe pan
with a folded dish towel to cushion the souffl6 dishes.
Pour in /+inchofwarer. Place the pan bver a
i
moderately low heat: the water should be simmering
when the souffl6s are placed in it. Bring 2 quarts of
water to a simmer in a tea kettle.
Generously butter the insides and rims of the
souffl6 dishes.
In a small nonaluminum skillet over medium heat,
cook 2 tablespoons ofthe kiwi pur6e until it reduces to
1 tablespoon. Remove it from the heat and add the

sugar with eg yolk mixture into limejuice.

In a 1-quart mixing bowl, use a whisk to beat.
the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon
of,the granulated sugar u11il they are thick and
,light-colored. Whisk in lilablespoon of the kiwi and
lime mixture. Set it aside.
Put the egg whites with 2 tablespoons pf,rs 1 tea-
spoon ofthe granulated sugar into another 1-quart
bowl (fig. t7). Beat with a hand-held elecric mixer
until they form soft mounds-neither stiffpeaks nor
foamy and runny. Carefully beat in the remaining
kiwi and lime mixture. Gently but thoroughly fold a
19. Folding in remaining yolks 20. Simmering Kiwi Fruit Soffits quarter of the yolk mixture into the whites (fig.1g);
then fold in the remainder (fig. 19).
Working quickly, fill the souil6 dishes ro rhe top.
With the straight edge of a knife, smoorh the surface
ofeach dish. Rirn a finger around rhe inside ofthe rim
to form a channel about/+inch deep.
Place the souffl6 dishes in the simmering
bain-marie: the water should come halfway up the
sides of the dishes. Ifit doesn't, add more from the
kettle. Simmer on top ofthe stove for 5 minutes: the
sou{fl6s will look poached and slightly pufty (fig. 20).
21. Shaking sugar ouer cooked soufibs V/ith a wide metal sparula, quickly transfer the
32 The Pleasures of Cooking
 dishes to the cookie sheet in the preheated oven. Bake
for about 5 minutes, until the souffl6s are risen and a
light golden brown.
While the soufH6s bake, make the kiwi sauce by
stirring together the remaining1% cup ofkiwi pur6e
with the remaining tablespoon of sugar until the sugar
dissolves.
Open the oven and puli out the cookie sheetjust far
enough so you can shake the confectioner's sugar over
each souffl6 (fig. 21). Bake for 1 minute longer, until
the edges of the soufI6s are dark brown.
Serve the souffl6s immediately, with a tablespoon
ofthe sauce spooned into the center ofeach.
Makes 4 or 5 sen'ings. (See photo, page 30.)
Variations:
LIME SOUFFLE
In the souffl6 mixture, substitute 1 tablespoon offresh
limejuice for the reduced kiwi puree. Serve with a
Lime Butter Sauce.
LimeButter Sauce
3 tablespoons fresh limejuice
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut
into 4 pieces
T In small nonaluminum skillet over medium heat,
a all over again with a fork and bake t0 minutes longer,
reduce the limejuice to 1 tablespoon. Stir in the sugar
until it dissolves. The sauce can be prepared in
advance up to this point. When the sauce is hot, stir in
the pieces ofbutter one by one until they melt. Serve
immediately.
LEMON SOUFFLE
Substitute 2 tabiespoons fresh lemonjuice for the
mixture ofkiwi and limejuice. Serve with Lemon
Butter Sauce.
Lemon Buf$er Sauce
3 talqJespoons fresh lemonjuice
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut
into 4 pieces
the procfrure is the same as for Lime Butter Sauce.
I
ORANGE SOUFFLE
I Makes 8 servings. (See photo, page 30.)
Substitutg 2 tablespoons thawed frozen orange juice
concentrate and 1 tablespoon lemonjuice for the kiwi
and lime mixture. Mix thejuices together; do not
cook them. This souffl6 is so well flavored that it does
not need a sauce.
LEMON CUSTARD TART
Thrte au Citron
This k a signature of Girardet's restaurant. With its tender,
short crust, its sofi, intensely yet subtlyfiauoredflling and
its cracl<lycaramelized surface, this tart has time and again
been declared one of the bestlemon tarts ever by friends and
students l've made itfor. Ahhough the assembled tart cannot
be cooked in aduance, thefilling and pastry canbe prepared
separately a day ahead.
Rich Pastry Shell (recipe follows)
4 large eggs
tlz cups (101/z ounces) sugar
or
Zestof /zlarge orange, removed with a zester
grater
Vz cup fresh lemonjuice
Vz cup fresh orangejuice
V+ anp heavy cream
7 Vz tablesp oons confectioners' sugar
1 lemon, rind and membrane removed, flesh cut
into segments
Make the pastry shell first. Set the rack in the middle
ofthe oven and preheat to 400'F.
Place the tart pan containing the Rich Pastry Shell
on a cookie sheet. Line the shell with parchment paper
and fill it with dried beans or rice. Bake for 12
minutes. Remove the beans and paper, prick the crust
or until lightly colored. Remove from the oven.
While the crust bakes, prepare the filling. Process
the eggs, sugar and zest with the metal blade for about
1 mirrrte, until the mixture is light yel8w and fluffy.
Pour thejuices and cream through the feed tube with
the machine still running.
Reduce the oven temperature to 375'F. Pour the
filling into the crust. Bake for 10 minutes; then reduce
the temperatureto 350'F. and bake 72to 14 minutes
longer. Ifthe crust edges darken too quickly, cover.
them with foil. When the filling is browned and
moves only slightly when the pan is shaken, remove
the tart from the oven.
Preheat the broiler and adjust the rack 4 inches from
the heat. Sprinkle confectioners'sugar through a sieve
uniformly over the tart's surface. Arrange the lemon
segments on top in a circular pattern. Place the tart
under the broiler. Check every few seconds, turning
the tart so it browns evenly. When the entire surface is
browned, after about 1to 1/z minutes, remove the
tart. Let it cool to room temPerature before serving.
(continued)
:
I
33
 Rich Pastry Shell (Crofite de Tarte)
Use a tart pan with a removable bottom. Reserue the dough
timmings and use them to patch any cracks that develop in
the shell afier its initial baking and before you add
the patches will be uirtually undetectable.
1 stick plus 3 tablespoons (5% ounces) unsalted
butter, chilled and cut into 12 pieces
1 large egg
Vz large egg yolk
1 tablespoon water
/z ctrp (3 ounces) confectioners' sugar
Pinch ofsalt
Wz ctrps plus 2 tablespoons (8/z ounces) unbleached
all-purpose flour
Put all the ingredients except the flour in a processor
with the metal blade; then follow the recipe for Pite
Bris6e (page 16). Prepare the tart shell following the
instructions in the first paragraph ofthe Onion Tart
recipe (page 14).
SWEET CREAM TART
Thrte Vaudoise
It's hard to belieye that such a simple recipe can make such a
deep impression on all who taste it. The dough, very like a
baking powder biscuit, is made in an instant. The
very shallow, more like a thin custard coating. This tart
makes an excellent accompaniment to freshJruit, especially
strawberries, or any of Cirardet'sJruits in syrup.
3/c stick (3 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut
into 4 pieces
V+ cup plus 2 tablespoonsmilk
/+ cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
/: teasooon salt
l'4%"piplus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose
1/z teaspoons baking powder
1 cup heavy cream
Cinnamon
Lightly grease a 9-inch quiche pan with a removable
bottom. Preheat the oven to 425"F. Adjust the rack to
the middle of the oven.
Put the butter, milk, 3 tablespoons ofthe sugar and
the salt in a food processor with the metal blade.
Process 10 seconds. In a small bowl, mix the flour and
baking powdeq and add the mixture to the food
processor. Process only until the dough forms several
lumps. Do not overprocess.
With floured hands, shape the dough into a disc.
On a well floured board, roll the dough into a 13-inch
circle, about lqinchthick. Place the dough in the
prepared pan and gently press it in. Trim the dough
Yzinchbeyond the edge of the pan; fold the lzinchof
dough into the pan and press the 2layers of dough
together against the side, keeping the crust even with
the rim of the pan. Pinch a decorative edge.
thefilling; Put the remaining 3/+ cup of sugar inside the crust
and shake the pan to distribute it evenly. Pour the
cream carefully over the sugar. Sprinkle cinnamon
evenly over the surface.
Bake the tart for 10 minutes; then decrease the oven
temperature to 400"F. and bake 12 minutes more, or
until the cream moves only slighdy when the pan is
shaken. The darkly colored surface will have large
bubbles.
Allow the tart to cool an hour or a little longer
before serving. Ifthe tart has been made several hours
in advance, I put it in a cold oven and then set the oven
to 400oF. and warm the tart for 5 minutes.
Makes 6 servings. (See photo, page 30.)
LEMON TARTLETS
Thrtelettes au Citron
Eueqt one o;f my students has been utterly delighted with this
dessert. Theflling is like a light lemon curd. The
caratnelized glaze on the tartlet shells giues them an extra
hint of runchiness. And this is an outstanding recipe.for
aduance preparation: both the _filling and the shells can be
is made well ahead of time.
filling
Sugar Glazed Tartlet Shells (recipe follows)
2 large eggs
lz crtp plus 2 tablespoons (4/z ounces) sugar
Zest of I lemon, removed with a zester or grater
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, at room
temperature
V+ cup fresh lemonjuice
I/a
teaspoon salt
Prepare the Sugar GlazedTartlet Shells first.
In a processor with the metal blade, process the
eggs, the sugar and the lemon zest for 1 minute. Add
the butter and process 1 minute more. Add the lemon
juice and salt, and process 10 seconds.
Put the mixture in a heavy 2-quartnonaluminum
saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring
constantly with a wooden spoon, just until the
mixture starts to boil and coats the spoon.
Remove the pan from the heat. Let the mixture
cool to room temperature; then cover it airtight and
refrigerate it.
Spoon 2 teaspoons offilling into each cooled shell.
If desired, pipe a rosette ofwhipped cream on top.
Makes 8 servings of2 tartlets each. (See photo,
page 30.)

34 The Pleasures of Cooking

Sugar-Glazed Tartlet Shells
(Crcfites ile Tartelette Bronz|:es au Surre)

lc stick (3 ounces) unsalted burter, chilled and cut

nto 12 pieces
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon ice water .;

/z c'tp plus 2 tablespoons confectioners'sugar

llz cu;ps plus 3 tablespoons (8% ounces) unbleached 22. Do"S,h ingredients exceptJorflour, assembled tn Processor,
all-purpose flour
In a processor with the metal blade, put the butter, \
F*,
egg, egg yolk, ice water and all but 1 tablespoon ofthe L

sugar (fig. 22). Turn the machine on and off6 times to

mix; then process 8 seconds. Do not be concerned if '], .{*.
there are lumps of butter.
Add the flour and process unril the doughjust
begins to mass together (fig. 23). Do not allow the *
I t'i
dough to form aball. Put all the dough into a plastic *#
bag. Press the dough in the bag into a ball; then flatten
2j. hocessing dough just until it begins to ffidss together.
it into a disc. Refrigerate overnighr.
Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Keep them
refrigerated until ready to use. On a floured board,
roll out one piece ofdough into a rough square
9 inches on a side. It does not matter ifthe corners are
rounded. Adjust the rack to the middle ofthe oven
and preheat the oven to 375'F. Butter four 3-inch
tartlet pans and arrange them in a square with their
rims touching.Ley the rolled out dough very loosely
over the pans. LIse another piece ofdough to push it
gently down into each pan. Roll the rolling pin across 24. conJectionul sugar ouer baked shells.
the dough-covered pans to cut out the shells. Press
each piece of dough firmly into its pan. Repeat the
procedure with the other three pieces ofdough to
make 16 shells in all. Refrigerate the cut-our shells for
30 minutes. Ifyou have fewer than 16 rardet pans, cut
out and bake the shells in several batches.
Put the tartler pans on an aluminum baking sheet.
Line the shells with parchment paper or foil and
weigh them with dried beans or pie weights. Bake for
8 minutes. Remove the paper and weights, and prick
the shells again. Bake about 4 minutes more, until 25. Gldzed tartlet shells.
they are lightly browned. Remove them from the oven.
Piture.credits for_"Recipes from Fridy Cirardet." Page 15-By Marcel
Preheat the broiler and place the rack 6 inches from lmsand: Shrimp Wrapped in Cabbage Leaues, Fish aid Leek Mousseline ,
the heat. Shake the remaining tablespoon of l-ayEJed Tedne. By Jefrey Weir: Onion Tart, Broiled Scallops, Mussels
in.The.ir-Own.Sauce. Pqgu 1617-All by Jrfrry Weir. Pige 18-By
confectioners'sugar over the shells (fig. 24) and broil Marcel lmsand. Pages 21-22-All bv lef iv-Wiir. papes 2+-ZS-A'I
them for 2 to 3 minutes, watching them carefully, Marcel Imsand: Cinos Jor Gamkh,' Butrcrea Whole Scallions, Roait
Capo.n, Broiled lish with Pimiento, Indiuidual Portion oJ Poached
until bronzed (fig. 25). -Weir:
Chicken Breasts, Roast Lamb with Garlic Saure. By Jrfrry Fish
Leave the tartlet shells to cool slightly. Then Fillets on_Sauteeil Fennel, Gratin of Potatoes and-firmips, Poached
remove them from their pans and place them on a C-hicfen Breasts, Fish Fillets en Papi[lote, Broiled Fish Fillits. Pages 2d
€t 29-All by Marcel Imsand. Page 30-All by Marcel Imsand'ixcept
wire rack to cool to room temperature. Lemon Tartlet by Jefrey Weir. Pages j2 & j|-All by Jeffey Weir.

35