Professional Documents
Culture Documents
by
Verrier Elwin
At Brunei Gallery, University of London
“Patangarh was a charming village on an abrupt hill in the midst of a wide clearing in the mountains.
On every side were the hills, piled up on one another, of the Maikal Range. In the foreground was the magnificent
symmetry of the Lingo mountain. The sacred Narbada was only half a mile away and we could see its bright waters.
A fresh wind was always blowing. Patangarh was at least five degrees cooler than Sarwachappar or Karanjia. Not
only was the village beautiful, but its inhabitants were more delightful, more amusing, more friendly than any others.
Most of our neighbours were Pardhans, the gay, romantic minstrels of the Gonds”.
“The gunia, magician or medicine-man, is in great demand in Gond villages, for sickness is nearly always ascribed to
the agency of witches or malignant spirits. The procedure is for the gunia to be called to the sick man’s house and
given his fee. Then he takes a supa, or bamboo basked used for cleaning rice, and half fills it with dry rice. A disciple
sits opposite holding a tuma or gourd. The gunia, in a low sing-song, begins to utter charms and mantras, rubbing
the rice with his hand. The disciple begins, after a little while to tremble all over and to shake the tuma violently to
and fro.”
“The founder of tribe and its great hero was Nanga Baiga. Born on the Hill of Elephants, from the womb of Mother Earth, beneath a
clump of bamboos, and nursed by the divine Bamboo Girl who gave him a golden axe to play with, Nanga Baiga appeared just when
he was wanted. The Creator had made the world, spreading it on the face of the primeval ocean like an enormous flat chapatti; he
had called the wind to harden its surface, but the wind is blind (that is why it is always knocking things over and banging against
people) and did not finish the work. He called Bhimsen to put the mountains in place but Bhimsen was always drunk and was so
heavy that he kept putting his foot through the thin surface. Nothing could make the earth firm and steady. It wobbled. It was like a
broken spider’s web. So the Creator sent for Nanga Baiga. When he came and put his foot on the edge, the world tipped up. But
Nanga Baiga soon put things right. He got four great nails and drove them into the four corners of the earth and after that it was
firm and steady. Then Nanga Baiga helped in the creation of the rest of mankind; it was through him that seen came to the world;
he instituted magic; organised the social and economic life of man; established control over the wild animals. He was the first real
man.”
“The attitude of the Gonds and Baigas to the war was interesting. An old woman put it very well.
‘This’, she said, ‘is how God equalizes things. Our sons and daughters die young, of hunger or disease or
attacks of wild beasts. The sons and daughters of the English could grow old in comfort and happiness.
But God sends madness upon them, and they destroy each other, and so in the end their great
knowledge and their religion is useless and we are all the same”.
“Some of the tribesmen, always excited by a quarrel, were anxious to help. A party of Baigas came one
day with a bundle of bows and arrows which they wanted me to forward to the Government to aid in the
war. When I told them that modern battles were no longer fought with these weapons they were much
concerned. ‘But if they use guns, people will really get killed’, they said.”
“One of my Pardhan friends said to me, ‘Why shouldn’t I welcome him to my poor hut? He
isn’t ashamed of our poverty, he doesn’t even notice it, and is happy to sit on our broken
cots or ragged mats. The people who we consider our enemies, the official and landlords,
dare not enter his house even though they may drive up in their cars. But we can walk
straight in wearing our loin-cloths and he will get up from his chair and embrace us as if we
were Rajas. That is why we open our hearts to him and tell him our secrets’”.
“It was a large mud building with a thatched roof and I loved making it, for it had some special features. It had no
outer door, though for the inner rooms I had some old carved Baiga doors that were most ornamental. Then the
entire building was a sort of museum which had things collected from all over India in cases set in the very thick
walls. And the building itself was an example of the local tribal art.”
“Long letter from Mahatma Gandhi urging me to perform daily yagna or sacrifice, of spinning…as no one here
for hundreds of miles has ever seen a spinning-wheel, decide not to, but suggest rice pounding as a daily
sacrifice instead. Village boy makes rice-pounder and installs it in the corner of the refectory. Formidable
wooden instrument, but apparently quite simple: you raise one end by treading on the other and drop it into a
hole filled with unhusked rice and then you raise it again and drop it again the husks fly off and there you are.”
The tribal wedding was carried over four full days. On the second morning the bride and groom were separately
anointed, with oil and turmeric, then bathed and dressed – in his case, a yellow dhoti, a long cassock-like upper
garment and a crown of coloured paper. Finally in the evening Verrier and Kosi were taken three times around the
wedding pole in the ceremony that confirmed their union.”
“On the third day Verrier carried Kosi off in triumph to his home village. This as they both lived in Patangarh
was deemed to be Sarwachappar, the hamlet ten miles distant where the Bumijan Seva Mandal still
maintained a home for lepers. At Sarwachappar they went thrice more around a pole and then settled down
to the marriage sermon”. The Gond pujari tailored his talk to the extraordinary circumstance of a tribal girl
marrying an Englishman. “Listen brother, when she is foolish, do not despise her thinking her a mere daughter
of the forest. Never find fault with her or grumble at her. And you girl, never say he is bad he forgets me, he
does not love me, and so leave him. He is English. He has come from another land to love us.”
“We often gave parties, which usually ended in a dance, and what was more important we were given parties in return. In
the Mandla villages these were quite elaborate affairs – our hosts would clean their houses and spend all day preparing
food, which was generally very tasty. When the time for supper came, a number of people would arrive to escort us. The
strongest youth present would hoist me on his back, another would pick up Shamrao, and then proceeded by women
singing songs of welcome we would be carried to our host’s house.”
“To accept tribal hospitality (provided it is not overdone) is a very good thing. It breaks the one-sided patronage
of charity, the condescension of benevolence. When you reach a point that people want to do things for you
and are proud to do so rather than always being on the receiving end, you have made a big step forward.”
“Once I was off the main road and away from the
few administrative centres, I hardly ever saw an
official. The people lived their own life,
unhampered if unimproved, and they lived it well.”
“This mud hut philosophy bids us not to demand too much from life, not to set too much store on things, not
even to expect too much from the immortal gods, but to love most where love will be returned, in the charmed
family circle, in the friends who will stand by you till death. A gay freedom of spirit is the most precious of
possessions, and simplicity of hear the greatest treasure man or woman knows.”
“The ghotul was the central focus of Muria life, coming down to modern times from Lingo, the heroic ancestor of
the tribe, who founded it. It was natural that the ghotul should foster every kind of art, for here the boys and girls
were all the time on their toes to attract one another and to make life what they believed it should be, beautiful,
lively and interesting. And so the boys made and decorated charming little combs for their girls, and elaborate
tobacco-boxes for themselves; the girls made necklaces, pendants and belts of beads and cowries. The boys
carved the pillars and doors of their ghotul building, which was often the finest house in the village. They made
exciting toys and masks. And above all they danced”.
“Now in relation to India I remembered how my family had made its money, such as it was, out of India,
and my countrymen had gone to India to exploit it, and to rule. I thought, therefore, that I might go to
India as an act of reparation, from my family somebody should go to give instead of to get, to serve with
the poorest people instead of ruling them, to become one with the country that we had helped to
dominate and subdue. This idea became sufficiently important to break up my Oxford career and was
the driving force that carried me through many difficult years in India”.
“One of Verrier’s most useful qualities as an anthropologist is his power to put himself out of the picture, to fade
into the background and remain as an observer”.
“One of her sayings was that ‘art unites where politics divide’. Marguerite who was a most engaging person but of
enormous size, along with her cases of cement and clay, was altogether too much for our old car and as we were
passing through Kanker everything fell out through the bottom and we had to send to Jagdalpur to be rescued”.
“As Hinduism spreads in a tribal area, the tribes tend to sink down to the bottom of the social scale”.
“In all the tribes, some of the boys and girls stood out from the rest through their beauty, their intelligence or wit,
their aptitude for games or dances. Some of the older people were distinguished by their appearance, their
knowledge and willingness to share it, or by what they did for me. But generally speaking, though I have many
names in my mind, they were all my friends - and this is the unique and rather wonderful thing about tribal life:
you escape from the normal individualism, the possessiveness and jealousies of sophisticated friendships into
something broader and more universal.”