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  • Susan M. Watkins and Lucy E. Dunne - Functional Clothing Design - From Sportswear To Spacesuits-Bloombury (2015)

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    Susan M. Watkins and Lucy E. Dunne - Functional Clothing Design_ From Sportswear to Spacesuits-Bloombury (2015)

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    280 views444 pages

    Susan M. Watkins and Lucy E. Dunne - Functional Clothing Design - From Sportswear To Spacesuits-Bloombury (2015)

    Uploaded by

    Paul-Emmanuël Thiry

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
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    1) £o i \ eae Lucy E. Du ar 01. &, BOIED Functional Clothing Design From Sportswear to Spacesuits SUSAN M. WATKINS LUCY E. DUNNE Fairchild Books an Imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing, Inc. BLOOMSBURY [NEW YORK - LONDON + NEW DELI « SYDNEY Fairctiid Books ‘An Imprintof Btoomebury Punishing Ine 1385 Broadway ‘50 Bedford Squere New York Landon Ny 10018, weds 30P usa UK ‘wirw.bloomsbury.com FAIRCHILD BOOKS, BLOOMSBURY and the Dlana fago are trademeris of Bloomsbury Publishing Pe Copyright © Susan Watkins and Lucy Dunne 2025 Fist edition published in hardback and paperback by fowa State University Press (February 1984) ‘Second exitan published in hardback and paperback by lowa State University Press (September 1995) Tnis edition published by Falrehild Books, an Imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing, inc, 202.5 Al rights reserved. No part ofthis publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electranic or meshenical, ineliding photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing trom the pubitshers. No responsibilty for loss caused to ary individual or organization acting on or refraining from action 2s 2 result ofthe materal fn this publication can be accented by Bloomsbury Publishing, Inc. or the author, Ubraty of Congress Cataloging Publication Data ‘Watkins, Susan M., 1943- [etothing Functional clothing design : from sportswear to spacasuts / Susan M. Watkins, Lucy E. Dunne. pages.em Revised ecition of Clothing. Includes bibliogranhical references and index. ISBN 976-0-85785-467-4 (alk, poner) +L. Clothing and dress. 2, Fashion design. |. Dunne, Lucy EI Title. ‘Tre4a.wa7 2015, 748,3'2-0623 2014027463 Isan: 9780857254574 ‘Typeset by Lachina Cover Design Ranshock Design Cover Art Courtesy of NASA Printed and bound In the United Stetes of America CONTENTS Preface | xi About the Illustrations | xii Introduction | xiv B User-Centered Design | 1 2 Providing Mobility in Clothing | 31 3 Materials | 89 = Smart Clothing and Wearable Technology | 123 Thermal Protection | 159 Impact Protection | 225 a Living and Working in Hazardous Environments | 273 8 Enhancing and Augmenting Body Functions | 317 9 Commercial Product Development and Production | 351 Glossary | 397 Bibliography | 407 Index | 447 EXTENDED CONTENTS Preface | xi ‘About the Illustrations. | xi Introduction | xiv ‘L User-Centered Design | 1 What Is Design? 4. ‘The Design Process 2 Conducting Research 3 Design Strategies 1.1: Who Is the Client? & Defining the Problem 9 Design Strategies 1.2: The Imoartance of a Good Definition 16 Generating Ideas 16 Developing Designs 21 Eveluating Designs 29 Conclusion 30 2 Providing Mobility in Clothing | 31 Human Body Movement 31. 2 ‘Sensory Aspects of Movement 34 Mecnanical Aspects of Movement 34 Describing Body Movement 35 Identifying User Needs for Movernent 44 Anatomy and Design 2.1; Skeletal ‘Structure and Glove Mobility 42 Design Strategies 2.1: Paticisant Observation: the AGNES 44 Notating Movement 45 Analyzing Movement 47° Gonlometry 48 Electrogoniometry 49 ‘Motion Canture: Camera-Baced Methods 50 3D SensorBased Motion Capture 51 Analyzing how Volume and Shape ‘Affect Movement. 53 Applying Data on Body Movement to Clothing Design 54 Examining the Behevior of the ‘Skin during Movement 54 Examining the Expansion of Clothing during Movement 56 Analyzing Wrinkles 58 Inoreesed Mdbilty in Clothing 69 Febries 59 Clothing Design 64 Design Solutions 2.1: Sports Bras 63 Design Strategies 2.2: Adjusting ‘Amscye and Crotoh Curves 70 Fit and Movement 70 Sizing Systems and Fit 71. ‘Shing Standards 74 Methods of Creating Sizing Systems and Patten Grading 74 Fit Testing 77 Creation of a Sizing System 78 Design Strategies 2.3: Mass Customization and Sizing 79 Analyzing the Effects of Clothing on Movement 80 Conclusion 82 Case Study 2.1 Movernent in Pressurized and PasitivePressure Garments 83 Case Study 2.2 Movement after Injury 87 Materials | 89 Textiles 89 Fibers 89 Energy Basies 3.2: Atoms, Molecules, and Energy 93 Extended Contents Yams 98 Fabric Structures 98 Fabric Treatments, Finishes, and Composites 106 ‘Tho Structure of Other Materiats Used in Apparel 113 Films 113 Fooms 113. Rigid Materials 115 Responsive Fabries 147 Inherent Material Responses 118 Energy Basies 3.2; Conservation of Energy 119 Conclusion 121. Design Solutions 3.2: Fabric Structure ‘and Protection: Lumberjack Pants 122 4 Smart Clothing and Wearable Technology | 123 Elecireity and Electrical Systems 123, Power Sources 124 Energy Basies 4.1: Electrical Enengy 125 Bjectrical Cireuits 126 Sensors 126 Actuators 228 Processors 228 Interfaces 129 Information in Wearable Technology 429 Wearable Input 230 Body Sensing 132 Design Strategies 4.1: Emotion ‘and Intention 133 ‘Wearable Display 139 Designing Technology for the Wearable Environment 143 Garment. and Textile integration of Sensors and Electronic Components 144 Comfort and Accuracy 149 Data, Cognition, and Context Awareness 150 Smart Olothing Design 153 Conclusion 157 5 Thermal Protection | 159 Thermal Balance and the Human Body 158 Mechanisms of Heat Transfer 159 Energy Basics 5.1; Eleotromagnetic Energy: Thermal Radiation 161 Body Responses to the Thermal Environment 162 Exploring Thermal Needs in a Specific Situation 175 Materiats for Thermal Protection 176 Thermal Conductivity 176 Airas Insulation 176 Design Strategies 6.2: Principles of Thermal Protection 177 Resilience 479 Reactions to Liquids 180 Treatments for Fibers and Fabrics. 180 Clothing Systems for Thermal Protaction 184 Keeping Warm 185 Design Solutions 5.2: Inflation: Varying the Depth of the Air Layer 187 Design Solutions 6.2:A Survive ‘Sult for Pilots 189 ‘Anatomy and Design 5.1: The Vascular ‘System and Glove Design 195 Keeping Cool 197 Keeping Dry 201 Describing Thermal Insulation 202 ‘Thermal Testing of Clothing 203 Using Auxiliary Heating and, Cooling Systems 205 Case Study 5.2 Keeping Coot: Ensembles for Fitefgnting 216 Case Study 5.2 Full-Oycle Research: The Cyberia Suit 222 Conclusion 224 6 Impact Protection | 225 Impact 226 Principles Governing the Erfects of impact 227 Design Solutions 6.1: Car Seats {or Infants and Children 230 Energy Basics 6.1: Impulse and Injury 234 Energy Basies 6.2: Enorgy Exchange ‘and Impact Protection 235 Anestomy and Design 6.1: Body Segments and Whale Body impact 236 Impact Theory and Clothing Desien 236 Body Tolerance to impact 237 Impact Protective Materials 238 Foams as Impect Protectors: 239 Right Materials as impact Protectors 246 Teatiles in Ballistics Protection 248 Inpact-Sensing Materials and Methods 252 Materials with SwitenLike Properties 252 Pressure Sensitive Foarns 253 Sensing Strain, Bend, and Acceleration 253 Design of Impact Protective Clothing 254 Design Criteria for impact Protection 254 Padding for Sports and Industrial Protection. 255 Kooping Coo! in Impact- Protective Garments 286 Case Study 6.1 Protective Equipment for American Football 268 Case Study 6.2 Protective Ensembles for Ordnance Disposal 271 Conclusion 272 7 Living and Working in Hazardous Environments | 273 ‘The Nature of Hazards in the Environment 273 ‘The Mechanisms of Hazard Movement 274 Patiways into the Human Body 275 Protection from Chemical/Biological Hazards 277 Materials end Production Methods for CB Garments 277 Energy Basics 7.1: Diffusion 278 Germent Design for CB Protection 273 Fully Encapsulated CB Protection 283 Baeades Contents Protection of Workers from, Radiation Hazards 290 Radiation 204 Energy Basies 7.2: lanizing and ‘Nonionizing Rawlation 291 Energy Basles 7.3: The Results of Radinactive Decay 292 ‘The Effects of Radiation on the Human Body 294 Clothing Design for Radiation Hazards 295 Protection from Solid Particles 300 Filters 301 Protective Clothing Design for Asbestos Abatement 302 Design Strategies 7.1: Determining Filler Efficiency 303 Protective Ciothing Desien for Cleanrooms 304 Electricity 307 Electric Shocks 307 Clothing Dasign for Electrical tity Workers 308 Static Electricity 310 Clothing Design for Problems with Static Elestricity 341. Protection from Cuts and Punctures 221 Clothing Design for Flame and Molten Metal Hazards 313 Conclusion 315 Enhancing and Augmenting Body Functions | 317 Clothing for Sensory Perception 317 Visibility 318 Materials for High Visibility 322 Clothing Designed for High Visiolty 324 Camouflage 326, Design Strategies 8.1: Meeting Conflicting Criteria; Visibility for Hunters 329 ‘Clothing for Diving and Water Safety 329 The Principles of Buoyancy 329° Designing Life Preservers 330 Extended Contant Design Solutions 8.1: Children's Life Preservers 333 Buoyonoy end Diving 334 ‘Speed Enhancement 336 ‘Clothing for Physical Strength Enhancement 337 Improving Body Efficiency 338 Augmenting Body Power 338 Clothing for Fight and Outer Space 340 Weightlessness 341 Designs for Special Populations 347 Designing Clothing for People with Medical Conditions and Physical Handicaps 348 Designing Ciothing for Athictes 349 Designing Clothing for the Military 349 Conclusion 350 9 Commercial Product Development and Production | 351 Garment Production Methods 351 Stitching 351. Heat Sealing 353 Molding and Heat Shaping 363 Garment Assembly Processes 366 Cutand-Sewn Processes 366 FullFashioned Processes 367 Fastening Systems 367 Fastening System Variables 368 Fastener Options. 369 Suspension Systems 375 Location of Germent Closures for SeltDonning end Dotfing 381 Anatomy and Design 9.4: The (Carrying Angje of the Arm 382 Location of Closures for Assisted Donning and Doffing 386 Creation of Modulos 388 ‘Accommodation of Accessories and Breces 380 Fostening Systems for Fitting and Adjustment 394 Fastening Sysiams for Quick Donning and Dotting 302 Reconfiguration of Garments with Fastening Systems 394 ‘Adaptations and Combinations of Fasteners for Specific End Uses 396 Conclusion 396 Glossary | 397 Bibliography | 407 Index | 417 PREFACE ‘This book began as the third edition of Clothing The Portable Environment but has evolved into something much more than that. A colleague once deseribed his attempt to create « second edition of a text as “less like adding a ticr of seats atthe top of ‘stadium than it was like raising the entire stadium and building a:new base under it.” Our experience has been something like that. The base has changed in terms of the expansion of the Feld, the projected audience, and our approach to organizing the subject ‘matter. The original text, published by Lowa State University Press in 1984, with a second edition in 1995, was aimed at elothing design students ina ‘university setting. We hope that this edition will be useful to a much broader group, including those in a variety of clothing-related Fields and industries. We are desply indebted to Albert Podell for his generosity in providing a grant (o fund new artwork ‘or this text through the Comell Association of Professors Emeriti’s Podell Research and Scholarship Grant Program, The new arthas significantly enriched the tettand will greatly enhance anderstanding for many future students an! those ‘employed in protective clothing industries, We are also grateful to the University of Minnesota Imagine Fund for providing funds to support travel, graphic ceditiog by Katie Mueller, and illustrations by Mary Bllen Berglund. ‘We are also indebted to students in the Fall 2013 directed study group on funetional clothing design af the University of Minnesota who reviewed drafts of the text and made many exellent suggestions for improvements: Mary Ellen Berglund, Crystal ‘Compton, Kcira Erickson, Karen Fiegen, Guido Gioberto, Linsey Gordon, Harini Ramaswamy, and Jordyn Reich. We are especially grateful to Suzanne Reeps, US Navy Clothing and Textile Researoh, and Carol J. Fitegerald, US Department of the Army, for their extensive review of the entire manuscript. We are also very grateful to Stephanie Tew for her insight and suggestions for chemical/biological protective clothing and for her review of Chapter 7. ‘Many other people contributed helpful suggestions and reviewed sections of the manuscript. We would especially like to thank Susan and William McKinney, Mark Mordecai at Globe Firesuits, Dale Strauf, Ben Rich, the Snyder family and the Presque Isle Yacht Club, Dr. Claire Fraser, and Mikko Malmivaara. ‘We are extremely happy that Dr. Susan P. Ashdown at Cornell University was again willing to contribute her wealth of knowledge about sizing and fit to Chapter 2, ‘The publisher would also like to thank the reviewers for their insights and guidance: Debbie Christel, West Virginia University; Lisa Hayes, Drexel University; Su Hwang, Texas ‘Tech University; Karen L. LaBat, University of Minnesota; Amectsing Luximon, Hong Kong. Polytechnic University; Jane McCann, University of Wales; Rachel Obbard, Dertmouth University: Huiju Park, Comell University; Kelly Reddy-Best, San Etancisco State; Sandra Tullio-Pow, Ryerson Preface University; and Paola Zellner, Virginia Tech University. ‘This text begins with three chapters of foundation material with which some members of our interdisciptinary audience may have extensive background. We believe that design methodology, mobility, and textiles are critical ‘eas for a designer to understand in order to design finictional clothing. However, we recognize that those who have extensive background in textile science, for example, may not want or need to study the information in Chapter 3. Atthe same time, individuals with n0 background in this area may need a primer on this topic before attempting to read the material in succeeding chapters, Thus, \we have pulled basic information about the first three topics out of the rest of the chapters s0 it could be studied as needed. We have alsa created a glossary for all chapters, with glossary words in boldface at the fime of first use. s0 that there is a reference for terminology in succeeding chapters. In addition, we ereated sidebars in each of the chapters that pull specific cancepts out of the main text, Some of these expand on specialized areas of kmowledge, such es basic physics principles, and some highlight innovative designs. Others show the critical interaction between anatomy and physiology and clothing design or demonstrate ways desien methodology can be applied. In the years since the last edition was published, there have been huge strides made in the development of technology. The addition of a coauthor whose ficld of expertise is wearable technology has added an even greater technology dimension to the text. Both old and new technology ate represented by the designs presented throughout the text, Some of the designs illustrated are no longer produced but are included bectuse they provide seeds of a design idea that can be used as inspiration for new designs. Even when the technology and materials may be old, itis often the approach to a problem that leads a designer to new ideas, Both authors are extremely grateful to colleagues and students past and present, who have enriched our lives and added greatly to our knowledge in this field. As always, we are grateful to have had the support and good humor (and the comic relief!) of our families and friends as we worked on this text, ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATIONS Held! Specht has provided the vast majority of the illustrations for this text, Many of these ‘were produced for the 1984 edition of Clothing: The Portable Environment, when she was an undergraduate student at Cornell University. She contributed additional illustrations to a 1995 edition of that text, and we are grateful to her for continuing (o create ant for this text while in a demanding position as Marketing Director for West Virginia Healthcare Frances Faweett is a scientific illustrator and painter. We are delighted with her venture into the field of functional clothing, She contributed Figures 2.1, 2.4, 2.6, Anatomy and Design 2.1 Figure A, 4.11,4.20, 5.1, Anatomy and Design 5.1 Figure A, 8.5, 8.9, 8.15, and 9.28, Mary Ellen Berglund was an undergraduate student at the University of Minnesota taking a ‘course in functional clothing us the text was being developed. She contributed Figures 1.12, 2.23, 226, 4.7, 4.8, 4.12, 4.16, Anatomy and Design 9.1 Figures A-£, 9.24, 9,38, 9.39, and 9.46, Globe Firesuits® permitted us to use their illustrations for Case Study 5.1 Figures A-H. Except for Figure 1.2 and 1.12, the authors created all ofthe figures for Chapter 1. Dr, Dunne ereated all ofthe illustrations featured in Chapter 4 with the exception of thase listed above and Figures 4.19 and 4.21 (drawn by Heidi Specht). She also created Figures 2.2, 2.48, Energy Basics 3.1 Figure A, 3.2, 3.3, 3.11, 3.18, 5.20, 3.24, 6.1, 6.17, 736, 81,83, and 9.37. iy INTRODUCTION This is a book about bow und why clothing works. Its purpose is lo introduce some new ways to Look at the buman body, the environment, and clothing and to explore the relationships among them. Clothing ‘can form a barrier between the body and the environment, it can mediate the interaction between the body and the environment, and it can increase the ability of the body to function ina variety of environments. Although all clothing is fumetional, the functional clothing design approach focuses on ‘what clothing does before considering how it looks. Functional clothing design is, above all, an interdisciplinary endeavor. Renbourn's description of what he called “the science of clothing” could also serve as an excellent description of the field of functional clothing:

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