SECOND PART SPECIAL OPERATIONS 56Lal 1 General ] The technical knowledge necessary for construction having been acquired from the reading of "General Operations", subject of the first part of the Manuel, we begin now the second part. This second part of the manuel, entitled "Special Operations" is restricted to describing: ~ The operational methods and order of execution of parts, - Their order and details of assembly, = The special techniques for the construction of certain elements. In a way, we're now beginning the construction of the CRICKET. Before starting out, don't try to learn the drawings by heart or try to understand perfectly drawings of assemblies which won't appear evident to you (stacks of sheet metal). This would be a waste of time. There is, at the bottom of each drawing, a parts list; all the parts which are listed there are detailed on this same plan. Begin by executing each of them. You will then be surprised to see grow, as their execution progresses, assemblies which might have appeared confusing to you before- hand on seeing just the drawing. ‘The operational methods indicated here have already been used and have been found satisfactory on the first planes constructed. However, it is not forbidden to prove your skill either by improving execution techniques or by adapting to various possibilities and tools, provided that the final result differs in no way from that set out in the package. Don't be surprised by a certain lack of confidence, in general, towards the beginning of construction. "Metal complex," "Precision complex" . . . 7 The Builder should be warned of this very natural phenomenon which will cause him to lose time at the beginning. ‘A certain demystification takes place later as the work advances and the rhythm improves. Accordingly, great care but no unnecessary worries. Another phenonenon should also be noted. Unlike plastic construction, large parts don't appear at the beginning. Metal construction, particularly that in which a desire for lightness is carried to the extreme, requires preparing in advance a large number of small parts and small sub-assenblies. This is the tedious part of the work; it can seem discouraging. So, the time to assemble cones later. The airplane then takes form rapidly. And then, when it's finished, it's finished. . .1.2 Warning More than anything else, this small metal airplane requires, I repeat, care and precision in order to arrive at results which its nethod of construction promise, that is to say remarkably beautiful surfaces which produce the peformance and flight qualities desicribed. ‘This result, which is well worth a special effort, is within the means of any reasonably skilled Amateur who wants to go to the trouble. This has been proved. L£ by chance you are not sure of your ability, go examine projects in progress and talk to their Builders. If necessary, give a try to a few parts and, perhaps, on a unit like the horizontal tail assembly which is a good summary of all the problems that you will have to face later on. Equipped with this new information, you will be able to decide with full knowledge of the facts. Note Although the "Special operations" are presented in an order corresponding more or less to the increasing difficulty, there doesn't seem to be any major disadvantage in following another order. However, certain operations clearly explained in the first chapters are not explained in detail when they come up again in later chapters. Tt is consequently valuable, whatever be the order of construction adopted, to read "Special Operations" in the order presented here. Good Luck. tae2 Horizontal: tail assembly 2.1 _tongeron AZ cut out spar web 30701 to its exact width, perfectly straight and without drilling. Prepare spar caps 30702, drilled to a diameter of 2 m. except at the location of reinforcenent 30703. LZ Glue the caps on the web. On a flat surface, between two perfectly straight guides, attached parallel to each other and 48 mm. apart, position the wed, then the caps secure against the guides. Drill the wed from the holes in the caps. Then, after appropriate preparations, glue the caps on the web and hold them in place with wood screws 2 am. in diameter. Disassembly will be easier if the screws are paraffined and if a sheet of plastic is placed between the web and the work surface. (77 Mter drying, remove the lengeron, clean it, ream the holes with a 2.4 om. bit and rivet. The heads of the rivets should be located on the side of the henner part, that 4s, the web side. 10 Si7n 3 = Prepare the fittings 30704 vse foe and ball joints e in place (tight fitting ADR GLO), spot stamped, with a horizontal releases. In order to better resist alter- nating stresses that they will be required to absorb, these joints should, after spot stamping, be rather 4 stiff; their movement inside the collar should be almost impossible by hand, but easier with a pin 30 mm. long. Be very careful with regard to measurement "a" (later alignment of pivots). ~ Reinforcement 30703 with holes between the locations of the two above fittings. = Place, on the forward surface of the longeron, reinforcement 30703 and fittings 30704, In order to assure a perfect later alignment of the pivot line, place a 6 om. diameter pin through the two joints. BlockZt will permit checking that the pivot line and the longeron caps are parallel. Also, in order to guarantee the correct distance between the axes, maintain the separation of fittings 30704 with a support. block between them. Make sure all is square. Drill the visible parts of the fittings. Pin. Remove the block. Drill the inside part. Disassemble, clean, glue the central reinforcement 30703 alone, and paint the longeron. Put the two 30704 fittings aside. 2_Rear ribs — cut out the rear ribs 30709, and, at the same time, the front ribs 30708. Prepare the “separating rods" (six rods should be enough). For that, make in a squared board about 1600 x 40 x 15 transverse grooves 6°x 6 (or 6 x 12) opposite each rib. Then cut in rods 4 mm. thick. These rods will be used later to keep the Klegecell ribs separated during different operations. = Attach the longeron to the work surface, rear surface upward. Insert small measured blocks (plywood for example) to keep rivet heads from resting on the work surface. = Adjust each rib in its position, per- nitting a slight play which will facil- itate its positioning and aligning the whole unit, Be sure that any rib over- hang is equally divided on both sides of the longeron. = When all the ribs have been fitted, hiold thea in place with 4 separating reds placed opposite the internal rods. = Insert internal rods 30719 (alignment pieces),balsa, poplar, or steel rod 4 mm. in diameter if you have provided for their later removal from the ends (Cf. Ch. 2.3 I2). Toternal rods = Push the ribs into place on the longeron with rubber bands stretched over the internal rods and attached on each side of the work surface. - On each side of the ribs, near the bottom and near the top, place alignment rules, 1600 mm. long, very straight, and hold them tightly in place, either with rubber bands Separeti rodsor with C clamps. These C clamps are simple C's made from piano wire or steel wire, 3 um. in diameter, made as needed according to the thickness to be clamped (illustration). ~ If everything is in place and aligned correctly, you have made a successful practice run, and, in that case, you can go on to gluing. - Remove the alignment rules, the rubber bands, and remove all at once the entire unit of ribs held in place by the separating rods and the internal rods. — Apply a generous amount of glue (illustration) to the forward edges of the ribs, except for the two central ribs, over the entire surface in contact with the longeron. ~ Replace the glued unit on che longeron along with the alignment rules and the rubber bands which push on the ribs. Check the perpendicularity of longeron-ribs. ~ At the same time glue the poplar spacers 30711 (cut with the grain only) and make sure they push against the cap. Secure them with clothespins. ~ Clean any possible crips on the outer surfaces of the contour. Every~ where else, let the glue "run"; it will form a scotia in each angle, and } strengthen the gluing. Allow to dry. 2.3 Forward ribs To glue the forward ribs, the rear part, in order to be held properly and absolutely flat, must be fitted into a flat, slitted board. This board will be called the "comb". = Prepare a board (particle board. . . etc.) 19 m. thick and about 1700 x 400 mm. Opposite each rib, mark with a sepatation rod, a slit 7 mm. x 280 mm, In order to assure its flatness, the comb should be screwed, at its base, into a well planed, heavy board. = The rear part of the tail assembly should fit with a minimum of play, but without forcing. To arrive at that, the distance "e" (illustration) between the internal rods must be equal to the thick~ ness of the comb. Consequently, don't forget this consideration when you are establishing the separation of the holes on the rib templates.2.4 - These rods should press slightly against their holes, first to assure their operation as described above, then to hold the ribs to the correct separation by friction and still be able to be removed from the ends, after gluing the skin. = Mounting the front ribs. The tail assembly in place on the comb, place the front ribs on the longeron and hold them in place with the separating rods. Insert the internal rod. = Gluing: Remove the unit in one piece, apply glue to the entire rear surface of the ribs except for the two most central Klegecell ribs, then place the unit on the top surface of the longeron. = Aligning the ribs. Maintain the front alignment of the ribs with a stiffener 12 x 12 x 1.2 (fittd) placed on the leading edge. Use rubber bands to press the ribs against the longeron. Then, check the alignment front tibvrear rib with wooden rods 6 x 3 mn. in section and 120 nm. long. After renoving any exterior drips, place these rods along the edges of the ribs, half on the front half and half on the rear (illustration) and clamp then in place with small C clamps. In this way you guarantee a continuous contour and easily check the align~ ment of the rib plane. = At the same time glue the poplar spacers 30711 just opposite the rear spacers. Same process and same precautions as for the rear. 2.4 Metal ribs and internal finishing After drying, repin the fittings 30704 in place and position the two metal ribs 30705 in alignment with the others (guides). Hold them on the fittings 30704 with small clamps. = Position the fitting 30706 and drill ribs 30705 to match. ~ Without removing the small clamps, remove the units rib 30705~ fitting 30704, Drill the ribs to match. = Final assembly. Rivet fitting 30706 to the two ribs. To provide2.5 for later drilling, glue the bottom of this fitting to the flanges of the ribs. Glue and rivet fittings 30704 to the longeron. Glue and rivet ribs co fittings 30704 still holding them in alignment with the other Klegecell ribs. Finish. gluing the other Klegecell ribs. = To produce a perfectly continuous contour, fill the notch left by the passage of the longeron by gluing a small block of Klegecell of the same thickness as the rib. Consequently, the skin will be glued along the entire length of the Klegecell ribs, but not on the longeron. - Varnish the poplar spacers 30711. = Remove with a light sandpapering (wooden block about 300 x 40 x 10, one side covered with fine Sandpaper) any irregularity which might cause a break in the flush surface. ~ If everything has received normal protection, the tail assembly is now ready for its skin. It will consequently be "wrapped up", then stored away from dust and accidental run-ins with your broom (while awaiting the first Veritas inspection visit). Important recommendation: The perfect alignment of all the ribs is imperative. They must, in every point, come in contact with a guide pushed along a generatrix. This condition is absolutely necessary in order to obtain a good gluing of the rolled metal which will not tolerate the slightest undulation. 2.5 Forming the skin = Cut a sheet of A-U4G 0.4 nm. thick 1500 x 800 ma, Clean, scour the inside surface and protect it-according to the procedures, precautions, and the type of paint outlined in "General Operations". ~ Then go on to forming. [t is actually a simple folding in the area of the leading edge, through controlled pressing on the metal. Put the metal on a clean work surface about 1600 x 500 mm., protection upward, and-hold it in place at the edges with thin pieces of plywood screwed in place. i2.6 but can vary slightly as a function of thickness tolerances of the metal. Make a few practice tries on strips 15 to 20 m. wide with the same direction of grain. If the thickness of the guide is correct, the test piece folded in this way should fit without difficulty the front part of a rib. 2.6 Adjusting the skin ‘The tail assembly in its comb, mark the location of fittings 30704, of the screw holes 30718 and of QO the edge of the metal ribs, on a piece of preformed metal 0.3 or 0.4 mm. thick. Transfer these locations to the skin, which, after drilling, should fit without difficulty on the ribs. Hold the skin on the leading edge with a few rubber straps (strips 8 to 10 um. wide cut from a car inner tube) attached to the bottom of the comb, and check that it "lays" properly on the ribs without riding on the fittings 30704. Make sure that ho unevennes hinders veneering. Also check that che four screws 30718 screw in without problem. If necessary, slightly adjust these holes (play of 0.5 to 1 mm. around the fittings and the screws). ~ Check one last time that the application of the skin to the glued ribs can take place under the optimum conditions (sequence, adjustments. . . etc.) then, after approval from the Veritas inspector, go on to gluing the skin. 2.7 Gluing the skin, front part ‘The gluing of the skin is done in two steps: first the front, then the rear. = The tail assembly is in its comb. Apply on each surface and lengthwise a strip of adhesive 250 mm. from the leading edge in order to establish a straight gluing boundary. This is indispensable for an easy later gluing of the rear part. Apply glue to the edges of the Klegecell and A-U4G ribs after protecting the four screw holes (Cf. Ch. 23 1), Do not apply glue to the longeron. Watch out for drips of glue behind the strip. If possible, protect this area with paper, as if you were painting with a spray gun. Use several people in order to reduce the time needed to apply the glue. Work under proper light so that you can see easily spots not glued or not properly glued and remedy then. Check a final time that the glue has been properly applied, and remove the adhesive strips.— put the skin in place without wasting any time, in a single movement and without lateral sliding. In order to do this work correctly, the help of several people is indispensable: on each side one person holds the metal apart (and not with bare hands); at each end a person should guide the "descent" Hold the metal sheet, trailing edges pulled apart, directly above the ribs, and lower it straight without touching the glued parts. The metal should "arrive" in its place, the fittings in their holes. Next press it onto the structure with 5 or 6 bands of rubber attached at the base.of the comb. ‘The contact metal-rib on the leading edge must be perfect. ~ Wrap the unit ina sheet of thin plastic. Seal. the eliges with Several strips nailed to the comb or clamped against each other with Clamps or clothes pins so that a vacuum can be created in the resultant envelope. At one end insert the flexible hose of a vacuum cleaner and seal with a rubber band. At the other end insert a piece of transperent plastic tube 6 to § mm. in diameter and 1.5 m long and seal. This tube, filled with 500 mm. of red wine in its lower part, acts as @ vacuum guage and permits checking on the, vacuum inside the plastic en- velope. It is obvious that the pressure of the metal on the ribs will result from the vacuum inside the envelope, produced by the vacuum cleaner. > Plastic tube Plastic sheet Rubber straps vacuum cleaner ‘This vacuum should be such that the difference in levels of the wine in the plastic tube is abgut 300 mn., which corresponds to a pressure on the metal of 300 kg./n’. This pressure is certainly sufficient to bond the metal to the ribs; beyond that, there is danger of damage. So, in order not to exceed this vacuum it is necessary that the vacuum cleaner operate slower. Personally, I have obtained good results by caeaeec ase ay vacuum co a voltage equal to half its normal operational > voltage (110 V instead of 220 V). It is consequently necessary to provide a control of this pressure, either by controlling the incoming Voltage (transformer, theostat. . . etc.) or by controll vents made in the envelope.2.8 Another problem: make sure thet the vacuum cleaner, and especially the transformer, will run without failing for a minimum of 12 hours at an ambient temperature of 20-25° C. That should not strain a vacuum humming avay at a lower voltage. On the other hand, an insufficiently powerful transformer will heat up and burn out after a certain time. Make a preliminary try of this system, for ‘at least 30 minutes. All these operations should be practicel without glue. After gluing no break down or wrong move can be tolerated. Another precaution: provide a can of denatured alcohol or acetone, and always have a supply of clean cloths at hand. Before covering the metal with its envelope, wipe the surface with a cloth dipped in alcohol. This will remove the inevitable undetected traces of glue. Also don't forget that,.after gluing the leading edge, the tail assembly has @ permanent form, and that an accidental twist can no longer be corrected. So, make sure that the comb is perfectly flat. 2.8 Gluing the skin, rear part = With the tail assembly lying flat, keep the two trailing edges separated with small sticks. Don't couch with your fingers. Rough up the protective layer on the trailing edge with a light sandpapering. = Apply glue to the rear parts of the ribs with a 6m. spatula sharpened at the end. In order that you not break the point between the skin and the rib, the spatula should be made from a piece of pine cut with the grain. Apply the glue to the two inside surfaces of the trailing edge. One coat is enough. = Then as for the front, and with the same precautions, go on to the ‘envelope operation", vacuum cleaner and vacuum guage. But this time, since the essential point is attention to the position and angle of the trailing edge, the gluing is done on the work surface, with the trailing edge clamped between two wooden rods 25 x 10 mm. The metal skin and the plastic sheet should be sandwiched between the two rods and the entire unit clamped to the work surface (illustration). - After drying and cleaning up any runs, run an aluminum rasp (or well- sharpened wood plane) along the Plastic sheet trailing edge and other edges. 5 Rods 25510 ~ Insert the ‘security rivets on the trailing edge.2:9 9 Finishing = Adjust the bottom reinforcements 30712. From front to rear they ) must be fitted tight against the fittings 30704. Laterally, leave a few teuths of a mm. play. Play = 0.5 No play - Drill the skin and ribs 30705 to fit reinforcements 30712, making sure with the front template (Cf. Ch. 2.6 II) that the holes are going to "come through” in the middle of the rib flanges. Don't forget that you are drilling through a glued unit. ~ Rivet with blind rivets of diameter 3.2 on the bottome face and 2.4 on the top face. = Note: In order to improve the esthetics, you can avoid having rivets fon the top face by making use of the following nodification: Place between the skin and the rib flanges a piece of A-U4G 0.5 mm. thick, attached to the ribs with countersunk rivets 2.4 mm. in diameter. Gluing the skin on this.surface takes the place of riveting it onto the two ribs. Of course, the ribs should be reduced by the thickness of the A-U4G piece in order that they have the same contour as the neighboring ‘ribs. - Reassemble the two round parts of the joints. Unlike the others, these joints should not be greased, but coated with an anti-seize compound (Mastinox, for example). = Put the pushrod attach fitting 30707 in place. If necessary adjust its size so that there is no irregularity. Screw in and lock the attachment screws 30716. ~ Tip fairings 30714. To be cut from balsa of about 0.12 density. Rough the piece down to less than 1 mm. from its final form and hollow it out until you reach a ¢hickness of 5 mm. Glue with Araldite on the end of the rib. Finish shaping and making flush with a very fine pumicing. Tape the metal where it abuts the fairing in order to prevent scratching it. Coat and paint the fairing. = Your tail assenbly is finished. Its weight should be scarcely over 2 kg. During its construction you have performed operations Like 2d laying out, cutting metal, scouring, protection, folding, mechanical parts, spot stauping, Klegecell, flanges, gluing, A-U2G and blind Tiveting, This tail assembly consequently represented for you the "test" that I hope you have passed. If such is the case, you have surely been freed from a certain number of prejudices and ill-founded fears and are ready to take the "next course”.3 Vertical tail assembly rea tet 3.1 Longeron. ( Fier) = Use the same technique’as for the horizontal tail assembly longeron. Before assembling web-caps, drill the caps 30102 and their doubler caps 30103, with 6 mm. holes that will house the horizontal assembly pivot pins. These holes must be drilled exactly opposite each other. To do that drill and counter,drill these stiffeners with respect to each other using at first a2 or 3m. bit. ‘Then ream to the 6 m. diameter, holding the stiffeners clamped together. Follow measurement "h" (illustration) on the 4 pieces. = To counter drill the web, position the four caps correctly. Check the separation of the main caps at the level of the 6 um. holes by holding the horizontal assembly up to it. ‘The caps should press against the edge of the ball joints (illustration). Insert a 6 mm. pin through these axis holes. This pin should be held perfectly prependicular to the longeron in order to guarantee the proper position 6 for the horizontal assembly. (7% Giue the caps on the web in the same way as for the horizontal assembly longeron. ae drying, rivet except for the part Gaside the fuselage. It will be riveted later when ‘it is assembled with frame 12. 3.2_Rear ribs (Fim) = Same technique as for the horizontal assembly. Follow closely the positioning dimensions of the ribs, and the regularity of their spacing vhich accounts for the production of the trapezoids. Don't forget the poplar spacers 10305. = Make the false fin spar 30210 on the form make.sure you don't stretch the flanges. After scouring the surfaces to be glued and protection procedures, glue the fin spar on the rear ribs, holding it'in place with rubber straps.3.2 Make sure of its correct position with regard to the height and its flush fit with the edge of ‘the ribs. 3.3 front ribs! Fin) = Place the resulting unit, false fin spar down- ward, on the edge of a thick wooden board and glue the front ribs. Don't forget the holes for the connecting rods. For their alignment, take the pre- cautions previously discussed (leading edge stiffener, aligning guides, separating rods. . . etc. (Cf. Ch. 2.2 II) ‘The edges of the ribs can be left perpendicular, although the skin is not applied at exactly this angle. The difference is minimal and will be filled in by the glue. Because it's slightly out of square, the pressure of the skin will exert 2 force perpendicular to the plane of the ribs. To prevent their slipping, the front balsa rod should be glued as if permanent. on the ribs NS and NB, glue on each side of the connecting rod hole tuo small blocks of foam rubber which will squeeze slightly against the connecting rod. The light friction produced will be enough to dampen a possible vibration of this rod. 3d Foam rubber 3.4 Metal ribs (Fi, } - Prepare all the metal parts of the upper fin: ribs 30203 and 30204, doublers 30201. . . etc. . ~ Position the doublers 30201 on opposite sides of the upper part of the longeron, guaranteeing their proper operation with a 6 mm. pin inserted through. At the same time insert the two L pieces 30211. = Position the front and rear metal ribs making them flush with the lower edge of the doublers 30201. The rear rib should be able to fit flat under the two L pieces 30211. Check for the correct angle forned by the longeron and the doublers 30201, that is 62.1°. Drill and pin.~ Hold the fittihg 30202, upper support of the rudder, in place with its rudder pivot pin and check its proper position by holding the rudder in place. If everything is correct, it should be perfectly centered and the clearance between its leading edge and the false spar should be 2.1 m. Attach the fitting in the position so determined and drill the three fastening holes to fit. - Disassemble and rivet the riveted nuts corresponding to these three holes. = Reassemble and rivet the upper ribs. Also glue the front of the front rib onto the Klegeceil rib. ‘The triangle thus formed and the gluing of the front balsa rod will assure the stability of all the front ribs while gluing the skin. 3.5 Skin (Fim) ~ Cut out the skif 30001 to the exact measurements indicated; clean, scour, apply protection. = Fold the leading edge in the same way as the skin Flan Of the horizontal tail assenbly, noticing, however, tet flenge that in this case the radius of the leading edge is not constant. The thickness of the calibrated guide will vary in a linear fashion, from mm. for the bottom of the fin, to mm. for the top. As I said, the least thickness at the bottom of the fin. N = Then go on to the execution of the inner flange. Clamp the skin between tuo wooden crosspieces, Jetting the edge overhang 12 mm. (the same-way on both left aid right sides) and fold it back towards the outside. It is not necessary, in this case, to take any particular precautions, since the flange will have to be stretched to fit the curve of the fin base contour. Put this flange on a clean, smooth stake and, in order to stretch it, hammer it with the planishing hammer (Cf. Ch. 8.7 1). Work with care so that you don't exceed the correct curve, which should be checked frequently against a template. If, however, the curve is exceeded, you will have to make use of the reducing clamp, but avoid this.3.4 3.6 Adjusting the skin (Frm) Hold the skin up against the internal structure, placing it in its proper position and “holding it in place with rubber strips stretched parallel to the ribs (illustration). = Mark the 6 mm. diameter holes corresponding to the horizontal assembly, according to those of the stiffeners. Disassemble and drill. ~ Put the skin back in place, but this time pinning it with the stiffeners, using 6 m. diameter pin. Insert on both sides the doublers 30201 and attach them with clamps opposite the flanges of the top rib. Mark where to shorten the skin; it coincides with the edge of the doubler. This shortening of the upper part of the skin should be done before gluing. At the same time mark the location of the false fin spar flange (to facilitate applying glue). = For gluing, prepare two small boards which will clanp the ckin flat against the flanges of the false fin spar (illustration). - Pit a faleo rib of plywood between the two lover edges of the fin. It will serve to maintain the separation during the gluing of the skin in a — When all the elements are in place, clamped, the fin perfectly smoothed, drill some holes 2.4 in diameter where there are to be rivet holes, on the flanges of the ribs and the false fin spar. Make sure that gluing cen take place under the best conditions: successful rehearsal, varnished poplar blocks, spar-rib intersections filled and flush, no unevenness, approved Veritas inspection. . . ete. 3.7 Gluing the skin (Fiw) ‘The gluing will be done, here, in 2 single operation. ~ Apply glue to, the edges of the Klegecell ribs, the flanges of the petal riba and the falce fin spar, but not the longeron. Also apply glue to areas of the skin in contact with the flanges of the metal ribs and the false fin spar.2.5 = After having positioned the glued structure, false fin spar sult Jeainst its wooden board, put the skin in place with the same precautions as for the horizontal assembly skin (Cf. Ch. 2.7 II). Dut the evo small clamping boards in place on each side, with- out tightening then. Stretch the rubber strips, pin (paraffined 6 mm. diameter pin), check one last time the perfect flatness of the surface and put a few 2.4 mm. diameter rivets in place for pinning. Clamp the two small boards properly. = Put the bottom plywood rib in place, which will maintain the separation of the edges. = Then, as for the horizontal tail assembly and with the same Precautions, go on to the "envelope" operation with the vacuum cleaner and the vacuum guage (Cf. Ch. 2.7 11). = After drying, assemble and rivet the two doublers 30201, and put the skin-false fin spar security rivets in place. ~ Assemble the horizontal tail assembly and check its displace- ment, as well as the connecting rod passage. = Make the fin tip fairing 30301. It will be attached during final asseubly with a few drips of glue. = Prepare the bearing plates 30215 and 30216, and their pivot pins 30207 r) and the fitting 30214. = Prepare the Klegecell ribs. Make sure that the diameter of the rounded front is exactly the same as that of the plates. = Cut the skin from a sheet of A-U4G 0.4 mm thick. Scour and D = 6 protect. = Fold the leading edge to its correct radius. For that, mark the two tangent lines indicated on the drawing. Put the skin on a work surface, inside surface upward, then above it, exactly on the tangent line, a 32m. tube or round bar. Support this bar to prevent it from rolling and clamp it at each end. It should press correctly along the entire length of the skin. To achieve this, place a shim under the bar outside the clamps; this shim should be slightly thicker than the skin. Then, with a flat board, raise the metal, making it roll onto the bar along its entire length at the same time. Start the fold as close as possible to the bar, perhaps beveling the edge of the board. It is necessary to pull3.6 at the same time the free end of the metal in order to make it press properly against the bar. Then turn che metal around and repeat the operation on the other tangent line. After having been rolled in this manner, the metal should fit correctly on the front of the ribs. Before performing this work, it is recommended that you practice a few times on strips 20 mm. wide, taken from the same metal and in the sane direction. If the fit on the contour is not satisfactory, change the diameter of the bar. Don't try to correct the curve by "abusing" it afterwards; it will become uneven and will fit poorly. - Then break" the trailing vdge eight millimeters from its extremity. Proceed as indicated in Ch. 7.5 , but with a oe wooden or PVC crosspiece planed to the desired angle plus 2). | tube. = Place the unit on a corresponding comb. = Glue the skin in place on the front half of the ribs. For this rudder, the "vacuum cleaner technique” is not necessary. Press the metal onto the leading edge with rubber strips placed over each Tobe rib. Then press into place the part located behind the tangent lines with two small, thin boards (particle board or plywood) Rib positioned over the rubber strips with C clamps or overhang clamps tightened on each side of the comb under the skin. (That implies that all of the rubber strips are of equal thickness.) Make sure that the tightening is, adequate end that the metal presses on the ribs, even behind the end of the glued area. Don't forget to make a "diy run" beforehand. ‘As on the horizontal tail assembly and for the same reasons preventing adjustment afcer drying, make sure that, while gluing, the ribs are perfectly aligned and without eny warping. Also make sure you don't drop any glue on the support tube. - After drying, remove the support tube and pin the trailing edge while waiting for the Veritas inspector. = Cut out the upper forward part of the rudder according to the plans.3.7 w-Adjust, glue, and rivet the upper and lower bearing plates, checking their separation (654 m.). The lower bearing plate should have its pivot pin 30207 and fitting 30214 permanently attached and locked. _ After the Veritas inspection, glue the rear part of the skin with the same small boards and clamps as for the front, and at the same time clamp the trailing edge between two perfectly straight rods. - Finish by gluing the two Klegecell end ribs and by the security riveting on the trailing edge.4a 4 Flying surface] - WING - 4.1 Introduction The flying surface is composed of two removable wings, the left, with a "forked" longeron extension, and the right, with a "tongued" longeron extension. These two parts fit together inside the fuselage and are held together by two primary pins and four secondary pins. Each wing is itself composed of the actual wing, with a laminar contour, and a JUNKERS type aileron-flap, split and occupying the entire span. Besides its simplicity of construction, this type of flap leveled on the entire-span is characterized by a low Cx in an ascent configuration and, used as an aileron, by a great piloting precision, Moreover, moderate positive or negative deflections modify the adaptation Cz of tie contour and enlarge the range of speeds based on the laminar operation of the contour. The contour of the ving possesses a transition point very far back (602) and in order to take advantage of all the laminar qualities which it has, it requires a careful precision of execution. Of course, the low Reynolus number, the great relative thickness of the contour, the “tautness of the surface” due to the means of construction, the aerodynamic smoothness of the metal are anong the elements which encourage a very stable laminar flow. However, don't think that because of this you can be less careful in the execution of the contour. You can, if necessary, xiv yourself a few tenths of a millimeter on the thickness of the contour. But above all no, undulation! First of all, the sheet metal would not easily "follow" it, and also the qualities that one should expect from such a contour might be changed. Consequently, take care! 4.2 Longerons (Wing Spars) = Cut out the webs 10003, the web doublers 10004, and the web ends 10005 to the exact width and perfectly square. = Assemble the webs and the ends so that you maintain perfect straight- ness. To do that, place these two pieces end to end on a work surface, keeping their edges up against a guide. Hold them in this position with clamps and glue the web splice plate 10304. After drying, drill and rivet the plate. bs560.3 o = With a measuring rod 560 mn. long, locate the position of the holes for the main attach- ment pins on the webs and doublers. Warning: from the left side, considering the angle of S10 r the fork, the true measurement to transfer -onto the web is 560.3,m., the first hole being marked at 14 mm, from the end. Drill to a diameter of 2 mm = Scour and glue the web doubler of the right longeron only. Hold the two parts together with two wood screws 2 mm, in diameter through the pin holes, which will prevent slipping. Clamp between two flat boards. Don't forget to insert plastic sheets to facilitate disassembly. = Do not glue the doubler on the left web, but drill and temporarily assemble where these two parts converge with 22 nm. diameter screw. For that, use the cap eee holes. ~ Cut the longeron caps to the indicated dimensions, smooth round edges. ‘The carpenter's plane can be profitably used to reduce the vertical parts of the caps to their coistant width of 15 mm. (Cf. Ch. 6.5 I). Warning: these A-UdG1 caps 3.2 um. thick are dimensioned to resist {0 G to breaking. Sut in FRANCE the 3.2 thickness seems difficult to find. You can replace it with 3 mm. thick caps. In this case, remember that the resistance is now only 9 G, everything else being the same. If the caps are 3 mm., also replace the 3.2 fittings with 3 m, and keep that in ming on assembly dimensions. = Bend the caps at the spots established for the dihedron and for the fork of the left longeron. Watch out that, after bending the dihedron, that the inside surfaces of the caps fit properly against each other (Cé. Ch. 11.2 1). ~ Determine the location of web-cap rivet noles. For this, mark on the web the center line passing through the attachnent pin holes ‘A and B and transfer onto this Line on each side of pin B the drilling @imensions. For each resulting point, draw a perpendicular to the edge of the web. Put the upper and lower rear caps in their respective positions on the web and transfer above the position of the holes to the middle of the width of the cap, except for the last tuo holes on the inside surface of the left longeron, which will be drilled to match the plates 10403. = Tap with a punch end drill to a 3 mm. diametér, except for the holes corresponding to the43 wedges 10406, which should be érilled only to a diameter of 2.4 um. for now. = Drill to march the web and the front caps of the right longeron. For this operation, position the caps so that their external surfaces and the edge of the web are exactly on che same level (illustration). Then pin the unit every 100 to 150 mm. and check, with a U template, that the width of the longeron does not exceed 102 mm. If” this condition is fulfilled, rean the holes with a 3.2 mm. bit; and do this perpendicu- larly to assure an easy riveting later. x the left longeron, counter érill first the external parti then the internal part, taking care to avoid any longitudinal Slipping of the parts against cach other. To do that, put 2 or 3 tightened screws at the level of the bending and nove them one by one until the Zront and rear surfaces of the internal part are in contact. Pin, check the width and ream with a 3.2 mm. bit, except for the holes which will hold dimpled rivets. These holes, in the caps, should be countersunk and reaned after disassembly. The web holes will be enlarged by the dimpling (Cf. Ch. 21.7 1). @ “Disassemble and scour the webs and the inside surfaces of the caps on which the ribs will be glued. = Paint the webs and the caps (Cf. Ch. 15.1 1). ~ Reassemble the right longeron with 3.2 diameter clips (or 3 mm. Clips if you put neighboring rivets in place in order to guarantee correct centering of the unit). Hold the rivets in place with adhesive tape and rivet while checking the width with the U template. The use of 2G rivets is inperativ ~ Reassemble the left longeron, separately assembling the i web with the front caps and the web doubler with the rear caps. This separate assembly is only for the "fork" part . up to the level of the wedges 10406. All the locations of countersunk rivets should have been previously dimpled on the webs (Cf. Ch. 21.7 I). Warning: riveting the web on a ‘Surface of the cap causes a slight bending of the latter. You should correct it with the planishing hammer, working cautiously on the free edge of the cap, placed on @ smooth stake with rounded edges.4h Work cautiously and progressively so that you don't mark these parts or bend in the opposite direction. Check with a straight edge. = Before joining the front and rear parts, assemble the plates 10103. These plates adsorb the compression force coming from the caps. They, must consequently be fitted with precision: a very slight "tightness" qe correct. However, make sure, with the template, that they don't cause a warping of the caps. Position them correctly with respect to the attachment pin hole B. Drill hole B of the plate to fit the web and pin it; then drill the rivet holes on the web to fit the plate. Dimple the web. Countersink, scour, glue, and rivet the plate (gluing in prepar- ation for later drilling of 16 m. dianeter pin hole, Cf. Ch. 19.9 I). e = In the same way, fit, drill, scour, glue, and rivet the end plates 10403 and 10101. ~ Rivet the stiffeners between axes A and B. Warning, one of the stiffeners is attached with countersunk head rivets. — Later, finish making the countersunk rivet heads flush so that sliding against the right longeron and frame 4 takes place without Catching. Touch up the protection of the inside surfaces of the fork, if necessary. = Now assemble the front and rear parts of the left longeron. If the execution has been performed properly, the dihedrons of the front and rear surfaces should be the same. But to prevent any later mistakes, these parts should be, for their final pinning before riveting, fastened to an assembly which will prevent any slippage or incorrect dihedron (illustration). ~ Rivet the outside parts with 3.2 diameter A-U2G rivets. ee = Put the wedges 10406 in place and hold them by clamping the caps. Adjust their shape and position so that the end of the fork has the proper separation (illustration). Mark the position — of the wedges. —=45 = Glue the wedge'on the webs and the webs on. the caps in the corresponding area, to provide for later drilling. - After drying, drill to a diameter of 3.2 mm. the holes previously limited in this area to'a diameter of 2.4 mm. and rivet. = Plates 10101 and 10103 of the right longeron to be fitted, drilled, scoured, glued, and riveted. Same precautions as for the left longeron. = Stiffeners. Their role is to prevent warping of the web under shearing stress. They are also used to position and glue the ribs. Cut out these stiffeners and fold to right angles. = To drill them, don't deal with each part individually. Prepare a steel template 2 or 3 mm. thick. This template, 72 mm. wide, should be drilled 4.5 mm, from the edge with 5 2.4 mm. diameter holes corresponding to the river holes. This same template can be used for drilling stiffeners and webs, making it fit between the ewo caps (illustration). As a precaution, mark the direction of the template, since its drilling may not be perfectly symmetrical. - Rivet the stiffeners, the head of the rivet on the stiffener side (thinner side). Cut the rivets’a bit short, about one time the overhang diameter and flatten moderately until the "sink" appears (Cf. Ch. 21.9 1). = Wooden spacers 10405 and 10108, ‘Their function is to guide the principal attachment pins and, as for the plates 10103, to absorb the compression stress coming from the caps. For the same reasons, they should befitted with precision between the caps, without bending them. check with the C template. These spacers are poplar or (okoume). Their presence makes the riveting of root ribs difficult; they should not be permanently until after this operation. In the meantime, hold them in place with two 4 mm. screws with countersunk heads and nuts, located in the glued 4.6 {____— center of thé four rivets which will hold the plates | (illustration). These screws go through the right Jongeron plates on both sides. In the left longeron, you mist thread the hole drilled to 3.5 mm. and stop the screw flush with the inside surface-of the web. 4.3 Assembling right and left longerons (Spars) ‘The two longerons are ready. Ream the pin holes Y 2 tempora holding gerews 0 to a diameter of 4 mm., through the wooden wedges, plates and «bs. They should fit together without difficulty so that the pin holes are opposite each other. If necessary, slightly adjust the edges of the caps with an aluminum rasp. The assembly will be easier if you paraffin the contact surfaces. = Pin the two longerons with 4 mm. pins. If the holes are not perfectly opposite each other, position the longerons as best you can, making sure that the upper and lover surfaces are flush by clamping them between two blocks, for example (llustracion). Then use the square (Cf. Ch. 19.14 IT and finish with a bit or reaner. = Before going on with the construction of the wing, it is wise to prepare frame 4. (Cf. Ch. - Il). This frame is tunnel-shaped and the two longerons fit together inside it. Two 16 mn. pins hold the unit together. However, it is difficult, to drill and xeam this unit when frame 4 has been integrated into the fuselage. You must, consequently, assemble the two longerons and frame 4 now. = The front and rear surfaces of frame 4 are ready. Hold them up to their places on each side and in contact with the assembled longerons. These four elements must be able to be pinned together in the correct configuration assuring: = A square tunnel J T = The proper lateral position of the front part with respect to,the rear part. = An upper and lower projection of the frame with respect to the longeron, equal to 0.6 mm.rf these conditions are not met, adjust the respective positions of these elements and try the squaring operations again. Pin with a pin of dismeter equal to the last diameter reached (6 mm. for example). _ Normally, all the parts are positioned correctly, and the tunnel can be closed.” Beforehand, glue on the edge of the outside longeron caps a strip of adhesive paper. Its later removal will guarantee the necessary play inside the tunnel. = Moderately tighten the pinned unit, only to eliminate the play between Frame and longeron. ‘The adhesive strips have been sandwiched between the two. While maintaining the tightness, fit and attach in their repective positions the upper surfaces 20205 , lateral surfaces 20210 and lover Porface 20206 of the tunnel. Drill to fit. The upper surface can be tiveted permanently as well as the lateral surfaces. The lower surface Should be glued since its drilling can be done only at the time of assembly of the base of the fuselage. Watch out for drips of glue and paraffin the edges of the tunnel and the longeron. When the tunnel is closed, and dry, unpin and disassemble the unit This first disassembly may be a bit stiff. But removing the adhesive strips should make later operations easier. Warning: one of the functions of the tunnel is to prevent @ general Hrontorear buckling of the part of the longeron which crosses it. You must consequently avoid too much play. Maximum tolerance 0.5 mm. 4.4 -Reaming pin holes thé veaning of pin holes, now 6 mm., must be continued to a diameter of 16 um., at the same tine maintaining perfect concentricity with the firet poles. You can do this several ways, either with a sountersink that has a 6 mm. centering stud (CE. °Ch. 19.16 1) and set at 15.7 mm., or by drilling py the small hole method (Cf. Ch. 19.12 and Ch. 5.10 1) a hole of the proper diameter. In the latter case, you can assure4.8 the concentricity by drawing a 15.7 mm. circle, with a piece of proper radius, turning on a 6 mm. pin, itself fitted’into the 6 mm. hole (illustration). + Drill now only the holes of a single side; the right one for example. = Reassemble the longeron and frame unit and pin through the left hole, still at a diameter of 6 om. ~ Use a 16 mm. reaner in the right hole. Ream progressively until the principal wing pin, greased, goes in (which means that, greased, it should enter with reasonable thumb pressure and without any play). = Then the same operation for the left hole, which should be reamed in its turn while keeping the unit pinned by the right 16 ma. pin. ~ Disassemble and put aside, until their final gluing, the frame, the pins, and the wooden wedges. Later, when the fuselage is finished, the wings and pins should be put together with the same ease as now. = I repeat a final time that, before final assembly of the two surfaces of the frame, their mutual position must be carefully checked. The perfect continuity of the fuselage skins depends on it. Preparing the ribs = Prepare the rear Klegecell ribs 10604 and at the same time the front ribs 10603. = Prepare the A-UG flanged root ribs, 10602 and 10601. Rivet the stiffeners 10504. = Prepare the 1.6 mm, A-U4G internal fittings 10802. The shapes of these pieces and the location of pin holes should be determined from the same rib template in order to guarantee pefectly identical locations. Pinned together, the edges of the fitting and the rib should be flush (illustration). Also make sure that the flanges are square. The skin must fit perfectly flat if undulations are to be prevented. = Put the two riveted nuts in position. In order to assure their correct position, the holes should be drilled from a template which is also pinned onto the fitting (illustration). = Glue the fitting in place on the Klegecell rib, outside side first, pins in place and paraffined. Cheek thi ‘At the same time glue the 5 x 1.6 mm Klegecell "uate tully spacers 10809. After drying, glue the other Klegecell rib on the inside of the fitting, after —_ having ry = =4.9 aiter having cut it to fit. The small point hanging out in back, useless, should be cut off flush with the fitting. Finally, you have eight double ribs, four on the right, four on the left, with the fitting and the 1.6 ma. spacers sandwiched between them. 6 Gluing the rear ribs In general, the technique used is the same as for the hoirzontal assembly. = Put the longeron on a work surface, rear surface upward, and support so that the web sits perfectly flat. = Glue the Klegecell ribs, in the corner of the stiffeners or in the spaces, flat against the ueb. Use the separating rods, dlignnent rules atc., as for the tail assenbly, and don't forget to glue at the Jane time the poplar spacers 10305. The end of these spacers should be glued carefully and in contact with the longeron, = Make sure of correct positioning, that is, the proper separation of the double ribs supporting fitting 10802'so that you aren't unpleasantly surprised when you mount the flaps. - - = Also make sure to divide equally the excess rib height (about 1 mm.) on both sides of the longeron width. , ~ After drying, put the A-U4G root rib equipped with its stiffener in place, still using the alignment rules. The rolled metal can be glued only on perfectly leveled supports. Also check the position of the rear flange which influences that of the rear attachement fitting. Drill the rib to fit the stiffener 10302 and rivet it. = Adjust the rear attachement fitting 10606, with the fitting 10503, cutting the tails of the first three Klegecell ribs as needed. Always Check that the flanges are flush with the edges of the appropriate tibs. Also check the position of the secondary attachient pin hole. Warning: Do not drill this hole to its final diameter of 6 mm. Drill it to 2 or 3mm. only. Later, during the wing-fuselage assembly, it Should be drilled and reamed ,to match frame 5 in which the fitting is positioned. = Counter drill and rivet the rib. Glue on the Klegecell ribs. Finish gluing in place the rib tips and the block of Klegecell behind the fitting. Note: The root rib is not perpendicular to the longeron, but parallel to the side of the fuselage, so that its rear portion is offset 3 mm. toward it.4.10 parallel to the side of the fuselage, so that its rear position is offset 3 mm. toward it. Moreover, in order to stabilize the longeron— rib perpendicularity one can place a layer of 6 mm, Klegecell fitted between the first 2 ribs. The internal rods will then hold the correct spacing of the other ribs until the skin is glued. This remark is also applicable to the front part. 4.7 Gluing the front ribs - As for the horizontal tail assembly, make a "comb" on which the rear part fits without difficulty, the internal rods in contact with each surface. = Gluing the front Klegecell ribs is then done by applying the same techniques and by taking the same precautions as for the tail assembly (Cf. Ch. 2.3 II). = Put in place and assemblg the A-U4G root rib as well as the forward attachment fitting 10605. The same for the rear part; see the preceding paragraph. Ktegeert® ‘Shim = Then make sure of the continuity of each rib by gluing a small shim on the longeron ‘and smoothing it to the contour. = Fit, glue and contour the A-UsG spacers 10201 and 10202. - Varnish the poplar spacers 10305. - Make sure finally that no irregularity will disturb the pefect application of the skin onto the ribs. Note: Up to this point there is no need to worry ‘about twisting, and the comb is held flat. 4.8 Forming the skin ~ Get a piece of A-U4G sheet metal of standard 1m. x 2m. size. Straighten one edge if necessary and recut the other perfectly parallel. Tf the dimension slightly exceeds 1000 mm., don't worry about it. Tt is preferable to have a little excess for finishing. The dimension of the wing is such that this sheet, after being rolled, will form the correct size skin. — then, after cleaning, scouring and adquate protection (Cf. Ch. 15-1 1) go on to the forming of the skin. Here again, the technique used is the4d same as for the horizontal tail assembly, except for three details: = The inequality of the top and bottom lengths due to the dissymetry of the cohtour. ~ The break in the bottom face of the trailing edge. = The precamber of the bottom face along the trailing edge. = attache the metal to the work surface, then bring the free edge not to the level of the other but 15 ma, further, Check that the metal rolled in this manner is not out of skew and then only press with a wooden board until it hits the neasurenent guide placed against the leading edge. The thickness of this guide is 29 mm. in the case of 0.5 mm. thick A-U4G. The flattening of this metal sheet necessiates the presence of two or three persons to push on the board. The final contact against the guide can be held with clamps. Still don’t worry about twisting at this stage. The guide aust touch the rolled edge. = Then break the trailing edge, bottom side, by 21 degrees at 10 am., proceeding in the sane fashion as for the rudder (Cf. Ch. 3.8 It). If the fideh of the metal isa bit too great, say for example 1000 + n (n being the excess) split QS this excess and break the trailing edge at 10+ fmm. metal with broken trailing edge - Precamber the bottom of the trailing edge on a wooden board 2.300 m. long, contoured appropriately. The contour used, shown opposite on a sacle of 1, can vary a bit from one series of sheet metal to another. Here again, practice a few times on strips 10 to 20 mm. wide, keeping the same direction of rolling as on the netal to be bent. Hold the board solidly at each end, attach the metal along its trailing edge (drawing) and have several people push all together along the entire length, until you reach thé desired curve. Check that the resulting skin fits perfectly on all the ribs and that the two trailing edges, top and bottom, meet. Warning: Before beginning the forming of the actual skin it is wise to make several preliminary tries tightening block contoured boardon 20 x 1000 strips and check that everything works properly. If necessary, adjust the process slightly. 4.9 Titting the skin From this point of, we must concern ourselves with the twisting of the wing. = The comb should be twisted 1.5°. To do that, with the possibility of adjustment, place under the stationary base of the comb a second board of the same size (or any other element sufficiently rigid under twisting). Place between the two, and on a diagonal two shims a few millimeters thick, then, in the two opposite corners, a tighten-— ing system, such as threaded pins or clamps. The act of tightening this system warps the bese and the comb attached to it. Provide shims and pressure washers adequate to prevent any creeping under pressure; the twisting angle must be held constant at least long enough for gluing the skin. Ato Plumb ine. The twisting should be checked either with an artillery level, placed against the comb at each end, or with a plumb line hung from the top. This twisting nust be measured between two points 2 m. apart. The twisting angle of 1.5° corresponds to a slope of 26 mm. per meter. Warning: Twist the comb in the correct direction, so that the trailing edge, tip side, is higher than the trailing edge, root side. Then, for reasons of symmetry, twist the comb in the opposite direction for the other ving; consequently, reverse shins and prescure. - Put the wing back on the now twisted comb. Recheck the twisting (template). - Put the skin over, letting the tip end hand over at least 1 am. with respect to the last rib. Hold it in place with strips of rubber. On the fuselage side, the skin should hang over the reot rib about 10 mm. This nargin‘will later allow its fitting with the fuselage. - If everything fits well, the skin can be glued, providing however that the Veritas inspector has given a favorable report. 4.10 Gluing the front part of the skin This operation is exactly the same as that for the horizontal tail assembly (Cf. Ch. 2.7 II) with one exception however; there are more ribs to be glued and it is just about necessary to divide this work among at least four persons, in order to minimize the time for applying glue. . .(Cf. Ch. 17.3 I). Don't change the twisting of the comb for the monent. It will serve as a twisted surface for gluing the rear part (Cf. Ch. 4.11). W4.2 on 20 x 1000 strips and check that everything works properly. If necessary, adjust the process slightly. Fitting the skin From this point oni, we must concern ourselves with the twisting of the wing. = The comb should be twisted 1.5°. To do that, with the possibility of adjustment, place under the stationary base of the comb a second board of 3 the same size (or any other element ~ sufficiently rigid under twisting). Place between the two, and on a diagonal two shims a few millimeters thick, then, in the two opposite corners, a tighten-" ing system, such as threaded pins or clamps. The act of tightening this system warps the base and the comb attached to it. Provide shims and pressure washers adequate to prevent any creeping under pressure; the twisting angle must be held constant at least long enough for gluing the skin. The twisting should be checked either with an artillery level, placed against the comb at each end, or with a plumb line hung from the top. This twisting must be measured between two points 2 m. apart. The twisting angle of 1.5° corresponds to a slope of 26 um. per neter. Warning: ‘Twist the comb in the correct direction, so that the trailing edge, tip side, is higher than the trailing edge, root side. Then, for reasons of symmetry, twist the comb in the opposite direction for the other wing; consequently, reverse shims and pressure. = Put the wing back on the now twisted comb. Recheck the twisting (template). Put the skin over, letting the tip end hand over at least 1 mm. with respect to the last rib. Hold it in place with strips of rubber. On the fuselage side, the skin should hang over the root rib about 10 mm. This margin will later allow its fitting with the fuselage. = If everything fits well, the skin can be glued, providing however that the Veritas inspector has given a favorable report. 4.10 Gluing the front part of the skin This operation is exactly the same as that for the horizontal’ tail assembly (Cf. Ch. 2.7 11) with one exception however; there are more ribs to be glued and it is just about necessary to divide this work among at least four persons, in order to minimize the time for applying glue. . . (Cf. ch. 17.3 1). Don't change the twisting of the comb for the moment. It will serve as a twisted surface for gluing the rear part (Cf. Ch. 4.11). W4.43 4.11 Gluing the rear part of the skin Before going on to this gluing, it is necessary to mark and drill the bottom face screw holes (fittings 10802) and to mark the position of the “upper face” flanges of the same firtings. To mark and drill the screw holes, nake a tool in the form of a clamp. This tool, about 120 nm. long, is made from a flat piece of steel of A-USG 2 or 3 mm. thick and 20 to 30 mm. wide. Stud gu \ tele ot Bring the two ends in contact with each other and drill there a hole 2 mm. in diameter which goes through both sides. Ream the hole of the convex side to a diameter of 3.5 mm. Thread it and screw into the threading 4mm, diameter stud with a rounded head. Make the inside flush. Fork this tool over the lower surface of the metal and insert the stud in a screw hole. Push on the outside part in order to bring it in vontact with the skin which can thus be counter drilled just opposite the screw hole. After gluing the skin, this hole should be Feamed with a 4.5 mm. bit. You should limit its depth to 2.5 mm. so that you don't reach the threads, placing a wooden crosspiece on the bit which will act as a stop. = With an almost identical tool whose edges are superposed, mark the position of all metal parts to be drilled aid riveted after gluing. = Then glue the rear skin in the same way as for the horizontal tail assembly. Here, however, this operation should be done on fa surface 1.5° out of true (in the same direction as the wing, of course). The upper face contour is linear for the last 120 um. You can take advantage of this characteristic in order to glue the trailing edge as shown opposite.ale 4.12 Finishing the wing = Smooth and make flush together, at the correct width of 480 m., the two sheets of the trailing edge. Also even out the tip side. = Later, when the fuselage is completed, the wing will be put in place so that the skin abuts the side of the fuselage. The distance "d" that remains to fit into the fuselage will be subtracted from the relative position of the 16 m. diameter pin holes (illustration). Than, after checking the proper position of the wing, you should mark along the entire edge of the skin a cutting line at a distance of d +1 um. from the side of the fuselage. This line should be drawn with a pencil and a block d +1 thick that you slide between the edge of the fuselage and the pencil lead. 1 cuttin line 2 r 1 = Cut the skin along the line. With the wing pinned, there should still be a play of 1 mm. all along it. Warning: When cutting, make sure you don't markthe longeron. To prevent that, slide a small protective sheet 0} ‘Solidly between the skin and the longeron. In no case should the longeron receive a transverse ‘scratch, since at this stage, it would be impossible to work on it in the lengthwise direction. If cutting in a single operation makes you fearful about running into Gifficulties, it would be better to do it in two stages, removing for example 4-2 um. on the first cut, then after reassenbling and checking the proper position, the rest. = Drill and rivet the skin on the Jongeron ‘at the position of the two spacers 10201 and 10202: two rivets on the top face and twenty rivets on the bottom. In order to assure the proper position of these rivets in the longeron, | Oritting you should have, before gluing the | Template skin, nade a small template of the width of the longeron. This template drilled in the correct spots, should be placed on the skin, guided by the longeron overhang. The holes should be drilled to match, taking the usual precautions. = Make and glue the wing tip as for the horizontal tail assembly. “I4.15 4.13 Final'drilling of secondary pin holes ‘This operation consists of counter drilling frames 3 and 5 J (not yet equipped with safety leadins 21407) to match pin holes of the front 10605 and rear 10606 fittings. These fittings are located inside the frames and, consequently, are not visible. In order for this operation to work, it is necessary to use an assembly which rests in a stable manner on the wing. This assembly, made from several pieces of wood, includes a jointed arm whose upper part passes above the edge of the fuselage and whose lower part, metal, has been drilled with a small hole of the same diameter as that (temporary) of the fitting. - Fasten this assembly on the top surface of the detached wing and mark its position. = Pin the adjustable arm to the wing fitting and attach it to the assenbly. - Puc the wings in place in the fuselage using the two principal pins 16 mm, in diameter. = Put the assembly back inthe previously marked position on the wing. The arm should fit right against one of the surfaces of frame 3 (or 5) and its hole opposite the hole of the fitting. Counter drill according to the reference angle. = Then ream to the final dimension. 4.14 Flap support fittings = Cut the fittings 10803, leaving a little excess around the housing for the sockets (illustration). = Fold (unless these fittings were cut from an adequate section). ~ Drill the two holes to a diameter of 4 mm., using a template in the same way as for the internal fittings 10802 (Cf. Ch. 4.5 II). ~ Temporarily screw each fitting into its place on che wing.4.16 = Cut out a template supporting two points under the contour, one under the trailing edge and the other toward the longeron (illustration) and on which you have transferred, witk the necessary care, the exact position Reference tine — - Template. of the flaps' center of rotation. This position is in relation to the trailing edge which must not be adjusted any further from this point on. = Hold this template up to each fitting and transfer onto them the position of the pin hole. (For example counter drill with a 2 mm. bit.) - Mark the fittings, disassemble them, -frim them according to the predetermined pin hole, smooth them, spot stamp the joints, and put them aside until the flaps are assembled. 4.15 Frequent acrobatic use With A-U4G1 longeron stiffeners 3 mm. thick the calculated static breaking stress,is 9 "g" and conforms to FAR norm 23 for an airplane intended for acrobatic manoeuvers. However, one must take into account, particularly fn the case of metal construction, fatigue phenomena resulting from repeated shifts in stress. An estimate of the life (see Flight Manuel) shows that the MC 12 can withstand these manoeuvers without difficulty, provided one limits their number. If, on the other hand, an MC 12 is intended for frequent acrobatic manoeuvers, it becomes necessary to reinforce the lower caps of the Jongerons with "optional reinforcers" cut from scraps from the stiffeners. (See Drawings 101-104.) ‘These reinforcers should be of a constant 3 mm, thickness along the 40 mm. situated beyond the abscissa of the flying surface pin hole. Then on both ends they should be thinned down lineally to a negligiblethickness along a length of 350 to 400 mm. = 350 = 400 Firenne aide, waathese spacers should be as wide as possible, that is to say they should fill the total remaining width between the rivet heads and the edge of the cap. ‘They should be simply but carefully glued on these caps (Cf. Ch. 14 and 17 1) at a temperature around 60 to 80° C. ‘The offset of the socket ribs as well as the cutting of the Klegecell ribs should be, of course, adjusted. The later drilling of rivet holes in the lower caps will be done with the usual precautions. The corresponding blind rivets, normally AVEX, should be replaced by longer ones (FERRO for example). ‘Thus reinforced, the lifespan of the longeron is multiplied by 10, or even a bit more, in relation to that of the non-reinforced version. 6 Replacing the skin tm case of replacement, the removal of the skin in place is done in the following manner, without any great difficulty. — Remove the safety rivets on the trailing edge as well as all those that penetrate the skin. = Unglue the trailing edge by passing a blade between the two surfaces and by heating if necessary. = Using double cutting shears cut the skin along the cord after every second or third rib. Be careful of the longeron. ~ Peel off the strips thus formed, lifting first from the trailing edge while heating with a blowtorch, along the ungluing line which advances as the work progresses. In this way the ribs are not harmed and appear with a smooth glue-covered edge. - Sandpaper these edges to roughen them up. The wing is then ready to be recovered. (1) The area located 300 mm. from the root bears the greatest stress Before gluing the ribs, choose the heaviest ones (which are the strongest) and position them around this area. 7aSul The flaps are divided into four 1 meter sections, each articulated in two places. They are made up of a metal sheet rolled and glued on a Klegecell leading edge filer and glued at the trailing edge. Four metal ribs maintain the shape and absorb localized stresses they 5.1 Ribs and small fittings - Prepare 16 ribs, 8 for the right, 8 for the left. On the cut out template locate the four 3.2 diameter holes (drilled to a diameter of 3 for the moment). They will be used for pinning and will appear in their proper location later. If possible also locate on this template the six holes on the bottom face flange (two for 4 dianeter screws and the others for rivets) érilled to a diameter of 2 mm. That requires ‘a few tries but once located properly, these holes will facilitate assembling the fitting 10704 Having flanged the edges, the rib will appear slightly bent; 1 ma. bend is normal. Make sure the flanges are perfectly perpendicular because the 0.4 mm. skin will reveal all defects. = Prepare the small internal fittings 10704, Drill the four holes of the template to match those of the rib template. Here again try to locate the six holes of the lower edge from the template so that they coincide with those of the rib during assembly. Flange. the edge, paying attention to its perpendicularity. . = Try the fitting 10704 in its place in the rib. Clamp the caps securely together. The four 3 mm. diameter holes should coincide. Ream them together to 3.2 and pin them. Then ream the cap holes to 2.4 and 4mm. Disassemble, slightly bevel the four rivet holes under the rib cap, smooth and protect. Reassemble, assemble with the four 3.2 mm. rivets and put in place the two riveted nuts. You can rivet them with aluminum rivets 2.4 mm. in diameter. 745.2 407 - Prepare in the same manner the external fitting 10705. But, here, do not yet drill the articulation pin hole and leave a slight margin all around (illustration). d ‘The hole and the final cutting will be done, as for the Eiteing 1070S, with an exterior template supporting the contour (CE. Ch. 5.7). 5.2 Skin ~ Take out a sheet of A-U4G 0.4 mm. thick, 0.800 by 2m. Cut it in four parts 0.342 x 1 m. Scour and protect the inside surface. Sie aces) to} at 44 99 40 = Fold the leading edge: Since the contour of the leading edge is so a unsymmetrical, the folding of che metal si cannot be done by the flattening method previously used. You should proceed as follows: The metal is placed between a sheet of plywood shaped as shown opposite and a wooden board (19 mm.) held together with 6 mm. bolts located 167 mm. from the leading edge and about 80 um. apart. ‘The metal is inserted up against the bolts and tightened in place. You then raise the front board, which is held in place against the unit by elastic cords or stretched strips of rubber (illustration). The metal is consequently rolled onto the ply wood form and will come out in the shape of a V with unsymmetrical radius (illustration). Warning: this is difficult to raise and the assenbly must be solidly attached to a sturdy support. The space separating the attachment points of the rubber strips should be about 100 mm. and the initial tension about 15 kg. per 10 cm. width. Skin after Fobding~ Break the bottom face of the trailing edge as indicated opposite. ‘The edge of the punch (18°) of dense hard wood (grain marks on the metal) should be positioned (a guide at each end) exactly in the middle of the 4 x 4 groove, at 157 um, from the edge of the board. Place the metal snug against the board, bottom face toward the punch, and press. If everything is correct, the four sheets should come out with a clean break of 15° at the correct distance from the leading edge. 5.3 Klegecell leading edge ‘These sections are made on a molding machine from a sheet of Klegecell 75. Keep the sheet at its full width; it's easier to keep it flat on the table and your’ fingers are in less danger. Then cut on a circular saw, with a guide, to a width of 35 mm., the sheet still flat on the table. Here again, watch out for your fingers. The molding machine iron, of course, should be made from a rib template, reducing 0.4 um. for the thickness of the sheet netal. This iron need not be made from steel as hard as that for wood. Personally, I've used an iron of. . . A-U4G. The condition of the surface of shaped Klegecell is not perfect. You will see how to fix it later on. 5:4 Assembly mold For its assembly this flap requires a mold which will contain the leading edge Gllustration). ‘This mold can be made from a piece of wood cut with the grain and warping little (sipo for example), 1.300 m. long with a section 45 x 60 um. Shape the form of the leading edge with an iron made from the rib template and sandpaper in order to eliminate any internal roughness. At each end attach a small cross piece below this mold in order to facilitate its twisting of 1.5° in either direction (illustration).5.6 Let's come back a minute to the Klegecell leading edge, still a pit rough. Since the mold is a bit long, cut from it a 20 cm. piece J inside of which you can glue abrasive paper 0.4 om. thick. The resulting tool will allow an impeccable smoothing of the leading edges and at their inside measurement. 3.5 Gluing the front part ~ Fit together the four ribs and the three blocks of Klegecell. ‘They must be fitted so that gluing on the ends can take place over the entire surface (illustration). — Attach the assembly mold to a plane surface, shimming it so that it is twisted by 1.5°. This twist should be checked with two guides applied at each end to the surface which served as a support during shaping. - Grease lightly, paraffin, or insert a thin sheet of pro- tection inside thé mold‘ (glue runs). Put the skin in place, then the ribs, to which glue has been applied over 45 m., and the blocks of Klegecell, glued especially on the ends. Warning: don't forget to keep glue out of the threads of the riveted nuts (Cf. Ch. 23 1). = Then with 12 mm. plywood blocks, push the Klegecell blocks down against the skin, forcefully enough so that they go into position, but without crushing them; a few light hammer taps on the blocks will help the skin and the Klegecell move into place. ~ These blocks need to be parallel, overhanging the metal 2 or 3 cm., and of a length so that the four ribs are sand- wiched exactly in their proper place (illustration). This implies that they have been filed with precision to the width dimension (10 mm.) and that the ends of the mold are closed (illustration). To tighten,’ the blocks should be covered with a grooved rule which will guarantee the correct alignment of the trailing edges and an even distri~ bution of the pressure. Take Peywood Ruler blocks 4 O3\0 \O\_25.5 the necessary precautions in order to prevent accidental gluing of these blocks onto the Klegecell. Make sure with a measuring rod resting on the edge of the mold that the ribs are at the correct depth. To this end, the tails of the ribs should have been cut with precision. Then with two flat guides, apply the metal to the ribs a bit above the mold and let dry. Thick A-ULG After drying, disassemble the: tightening system drilling temple and while the flap is still in place: in the mold, drill the four screw holes for the fittings 10705. This drilling, or more pre~ cisely marking of holes, should be done with a 2mm. bit. So that these holes coincide with the center of the interior riveted nuts, the mold should have been equipped with two templates, of thick A-U4G for example, which will guide the bit to the correct spot. These templates should be positioned in relation to the bottom of the mold and in the transverse location of the the ribs, established by the 12 mm. plywood blocks. Leave the flap in place in the mold for the moment. Gluing the rear part ~ On the edges of the mold, mark the exact location of the four ribs on the top and bottom faces. = Check that the twist of the mold is still correct. = While slightly separating the metal, glue -the rear of the ribs and the parts of the skin which come in contact with them. Don't forget the trailing edge. - Then with two flat and sandpapered strips of plywood, 3 mm. thick and 1m. long, grain running lengthwise, press the skin against the four ribs. Tightening should be done with C clamps placed opposite the marks, that is along the axis of each rib (4llustration). - Clamp the trailing edge between two perfectly straight guides (illustration). The top surface side, wider, is intended to assure the correct alignment of the trailing edge. - After drying, remove the clamping apparatus, drill the 2.4 mm. rivet holes opposite the markings using a small template (illustra- - tion). Debur and rivet. %5.6 ~ Take the flap out of its mold. It should be twisted 1.5° and have a perfectly rectilinmr trailing edge. = don't forget to change the direction of twisting of the mold after the first two flaps. Another possibility: Drill the rivet holes before gluing, debur, get rid of shavings, apply glue and insert rivets which directly guarantee the skin-rib pressure. Still clamp the trailing edge between the two guides. This somewhat simpler porcess can produce some mini-undulations opposite riveting, especially if the rib underneath is not perfect. 5.7_Finishing = Vita a marking guage, mark the width of the flap (165 mm.) and remove the excess with a plane. If everything goes well, the glued strip of the trailing edge should be 8 mm, wide. {£ such is not the case, first follow this measurement although it might ;roduce a bit wider flap. = Also plane the ends in order to arrive at the correct dimension and a square surface. ~ Finish drilling the four screw holes of fittings 10705 with a 4.5 mn. bit equipped with a wooden lug (Cf. Ch. 4.11 II). Normally this hole must be centered over the one below. ff such is not the case, “pull” the hole a bit until the screw catches in’ the riveted nut. template for center or rotation ~ Put the fittings 10705 in place with temporary short screws so that you don't damage the locking. Then with a template supporting the contour and on which you have marked the position of the center of rotation of the p> flap, as indicated opposite, counter drill the rotation centers at a diameter of 2 am. Genter of rotation Warning: ‘The locations of these centers of rotation, as well as those of the wing fittings 10803 (Cé. Ch, 4.13 11) should be positioned with’ a maximum of pre- cision, so that, aimed at 30°, the flap has the gap and overlap indicated on drawing 100 F2. Respect these figures, mentioned above, and on their regularity will depend the degree of lift increase and the symmetry of take off.5.7 - Mark the fittings, remove them, trim them concentrically to the pin hole and put them aside until final assembly. ~ Assemble the fittings 10707, put the flaps in the extensions and drill the two 3 mm. assembly holes to fit. = Assemble the ball joint 10711 on the fitting 10706 with a shallow nut without washer. Cut the screw off flush and lock it with three blows of a center punch (Cf. Ch. 24 I). Warning: The ball joint unit (10711) is intended to be assembled and disassenbled often. Make sure it is in pefect condition and functions properly. Do not use under any circumstances hollow spherical tips of aluminum alloy on the rudder lever. . . They wear out and in time may come out of joint. - Assemble and glue the fitting 10706 ready for use. +.6.1 @ facie J 6.1 Introduction the fuselage is a "casing" of rectangular section perfectly symmetrical on both planes. It is composed of two parts - the front and the rear - which do not exceed 1.85 m, in length. This characteristic allows the fuselage to be constructed in a confined space. Its technique of construction viffers from those that one normally encounters. It is indeed nore normal to attach the different frames, correctly aligned in mountings and then to cover them than to do the reverse. In our case, 3 or « sides are first assembled together in order to form the "casing" waich, then only, is supplied with its frames and stiffeners. This means of proceeding leads to the desired continuity of surfaces and the use of a sinimum of mountings: two saw horses and a few boards are all that is needed. 6.2 Preparation of external sheets ~ Drawing 201, Cut out all the external sheets to the measurements indicated on the drawing; these are the measurements of the unfolded sheets of correct size. It is desirable to make templates or half-templates Jd first, from particle board for example, with hole, pin, and reference marks, etc. Not only will they permit marking the sheet metal in a minimum of steps, but they may also be lent to friends. At the risk of repeating myself, 1 recommend to you again to be as precise as possible. Here not so much for aerodynamic reasons, but because you will save time and gain satisfaction when you assenble the various elements. ~ upper front sheet 20101: cut out and fold the "windshield flange" fon form. Two sheets of plywood will work (Cf. Ch. 8.6 I). ~ Upper rear sheet 20102: to be cut out, including the rear holes for the fin (drawing 305). —— = Lower sheets 20105, 20106, and 20107 tobe cut out. ~ Front side sheets 20103: to be cut out without drilling the holes for the minute. The sheets should be of the same size. It is easier to clamp them together in order to finish the edges. Rear side sheets 20104; leave a margin of 15 to 20 mm. on each end. Fold the edges to 89°. A precise folder with a stop is required to produce 2 pieces that coincide exactly.6.2 Then, on a board about 2m. x 0.5 m., nail 2 strips corresponding to the exterior width of the sheets so folded. ‘ark the spots waere the interior measurements are 305.8 and 29 mm, These measurements correspond to the location LS of frame 7 and to the rear; if the coincidence is correct, these marks should be 1855.5 mm. apart. This mounting is meant to eliminate uncertainty about the width of flanges. Gently slide the sheets up against these two rods and mark the length limits to be cut, as well as the frame marks and the locations of angles 20709 (drawing 207 and 208). Warning: Transfer to these sheets the dimensions and angles at true size (drawing 208) which differ from the dimensions and angles projected on the symmetry drawing (drawing 205). Glue and rivet in place the two reinforcing angles 20709, taking care to fit them securely into the angle of the flange. 6.3 Assembling the rear part Put the right side together with the top on one side, and the bottom, on the other. Pro~ ceed as shown opposite, on the edge of a straight plank or board. Position, drill, and assemble with 2.4 mm. clips. - Proceed in the same way for the third corner but not for the fourth. Indeed, if there were some slight longitudinal displacement on one of the corners, the final assembly would lead to a twisted fuselage. To drill the fourth corner, it is consequently necessary to place the fuselage on two smooth saw horses, while the first three corners are held with clips (illustration). = Disassemble, clean, debur, trim the edges of the upper and lower sheets (illustration), scour, and protect. ili of the Bm ongy6.3 PEREBE We 2k Macweon che rivets the 0.3 fetal should not "cushion Jz up". Also, don't forget to clean up all glue drips. The riveting should érame 7 which guarantee centering and tighthess for now will be removed later to permit drilling toa diameter of 3-27 = Put in place and pin frame 11-12-13. Check that the fin fits properly: the longeron should fit snugly without effort against frane 12 and the two brackets 20701 of frame ll against the skin of the fin. These brackets sh ced before riveting then on the frane; Ta fase of adjustment after riveting, tightly clanp a wide crosspiece between the two reinforcing anglcs at the location of the rudder lever pin. If everything is corrct, assemble permanently frames 11, 12, and 13. = Put in place the three bottom pieces 20106, 20107, and 20108. Drill to fit all riveted nuts of the inspection port 20107. = Put the riveted nuts in place. Note that those of frame 11 can be set after gluing the bottom by using the string technique (CE. Ch. 23 I). = Don't worry about the present lack of rigidity. Once closed and stiffened, these types of casings take on an entirely different character. . - Prepare the Klegecell stiffeners, longitudinal and transversal (drawing no. 206 and Ch. 18.7 1). 2 ~ Then glue them in the following order:, side, opposite side, top. - For the first side, place the fuselage on its side, on a flat work surface. Apply glue to the stiffeners, put them in place, end put weights on top of them (tools, sandbags, etc.). The longitudinal stiffener must be glued on its end against frame 11, and at the inter~ Sections with the transverse stiffeners. These last itens are not glued on their ends. On the contrary, leave a play of 1 m. = Same operation for the opposite side. Stiffeners bonding on fivst side= Gace the tuo sides have been stiff- blocks ned, turn the fuselage upside down ang glue the other stiffeners in the same way. ere, however, the transverse pieces siould be glued flac against those of the sice. Fegore clamping, put the bottom in place with a few clips and make sure that the unit is perpendicular, especially at the level of frame 7, for it will stay exactly the way you glue it. = Glue and river the bottom 20106 the same way as the top. *t the level of frame 11, you should support the metal with a block or use the riveted nuts in place for tightening. Watch out for drips of glue (use greased screws and blocks). Turn the fuselage back over and glue the bottom stiffeners the same way and with the same precautions as on the opposite surface. Here, however, the operation is a bit nore delicate: you must work in an awkward spot, but you can manage. - Put the fin in place and even the horizontal tail assembly. Make sure that the unit is perfectly horizontal. Drill frame 12 to fit the’longeron - and érill all the rivet holes on the flange of the fin root. - Pin the fin in place. Try the rudder also in order to correctly position its lower support fitting 30213. Drill and rivet this fitting except under the rear false fin spar (for now). = Do not permanently assemble the fin now. It would get in the way during + the manipulations to follow. - Frame 7. Attach the tvo uprights and the two crosspieces in their places against the skin. Put 20.5 mm. shim under ‘the lower flange in place of the front skin, After checking perpendicularity, rivet the four corners and the two tie straps 21206. Leave frame 7 pinned to the rear part. 6.6 Preparation of the nain frames Frame 4 is the strong frame which supports the seat, the controls, and im which the longerons fit. It will serve as a support for assembling the front part. - Prepare the front and rear surfaces. To assemble them, it is recommended that, you use a mounting made of strips attached with precision to a board (illustration). Place each element against the strips6.5 and hold them in place while gluing the corners. Then rivet, not forgetting the reinforcement pieces. Pay attention to the corners of the flanges and to the difference in width between the front and rear parts. The flanges should be made only on a folder since rhe straightness of the angles. particulacly for this frame, is inperative for reasons of resistance. = Mark the position of pin holes with the same measuring rod as for the longerons. — Then assemble the front and rear parts around the assembled longerons as indicated in the wing chapter (Cf. Ch. 4.3 II). Warming: don't cut coverings 20205, 20210, and 20206 to their exact size before assenbling the front and rear surfaces; it may be that the longeron cap-web unit may produce a total thickness (paint + tolerances) a bit greater thac the theoretical dimension of 47.5 mm. In this case, you will have to enlarge the coverings sy that such so that they are flush with the edges. = Frame 1: to be prepared and assenbled temporarily. Now that you have frames 1, +, ané 7, it is possible to undertake the assembly of the front. 6 Assembling the principal elements ofthe front part Whereas the rear part can be acconmodated on a flat work surface, the front part, on the other hand, requires a cradle, designed to hold it while resting on its side. This cradle will consequently have the same width and the same curve as the side of the front fuselage. It should be made froma sheet of plywood 5 to 6 mm. thick, cut out like sheet 20103, nailed to two boards cut to the fuselage contour (top view, drawing no. 200). 7 | | | | | | cut the plywood lengthwise. It will bend more easily. Extend the cradle a few centimeters beyond the ends of frame 1 and 7 in order to provide for a continuous curve at those points. Mark, with precision, the location of all the frames. = corner stiffeners: Cut four A-U4G stiffeners 12 x 12 x 1.2 a bit longer than the dimension provided. With the drawplate (Cf. Ch. 11.1 1) bend these stiffeners, checking their curve on the edges of the cradle. Warning: behind frame 7 these stiffeners mist fit inside the flanges