‘puitoina THE MYSTIQUE To make these building instructions easy to use as you build-thé kit, we recommend that you cut them from the plans. Before you begin assembling The Mystique. id through all of these instructions. Locate the parts you'll need for each step alongthe way. As you do so you will find that this kitis un- usually complete in that it includesaGcessories such as pushrods, nosegear steering arm, clevis rods and clevises, aileron,.torque rods, rudder and elevator control horns, a dural main landing gear, nose gear, and ‘engine mount, While reviewing the building instructions will seem to take up impor lilding time, we assure you that it will save you time in the long run and will help you-dvoid making mistakes along the way. THE FUSELAG} 1. Select‘the fuselage sides from the kit. Lay them side by side on your work bench so they toueli along the top straight edge. Mark the word “inside” on both fuselage sides. Get out yor inding block and presand the outside of both fuselage sides. ‘ - cate the two %" thick ply firewall pieces and glue them together. Do the same for the 10 hick ply fanding gear plate pieces. 3. A nylon nosegear block (provided in the kit) is used to mount the nosegear strut: In- stalled with the nosegear steering slot to the bottom, the block should be centered from side ‘to side on the back of the firewall and flush with the bottom edge. Drill the four holes for the * nosegear block mounting bolts. Four blind nuts are instalied on the front of the firewall. Using your engine mount as a guide, mark the firewall and drill the holes for the engine mount bolts through the firewall. When installed correctly, the engine mount will be centered from side to side on the front of the firewall. the top surface of the engine mountarms should be aligned according to the horizontal thrust line indicated on the plans in the area of the engine compartment. "T” nuts are to be installed on the back of the firewall. Before you doso, however, note that since the nosegear block is installed over the bottom blind nuts, these blind nuts will have to be countersunk into the back of the firewall. Finally, with a washer in- stalled under the bolt heads, temporarily install the engine mount, Cut off the bottom bolts flush with the “T” nuts to provide a flat mounting surface for the nosegear block. Temporarily install the nosegear block to check your work. Remove the engine mount and nosegear block from the firewall. 4, Glue the factory shaped fuel tank compartment doubler to the inside of both fuselage sides, Since the front of this doubler mates with the back of the firewall, temporarily hold the firewall in its location on the fuselage side to get the proper fore-aft location of the doubler. 5. Measure and mark the location of the front and back of the plywood landing gear plate. along the bottom edge of the fuselage sides. 6, Locate the two cabin sides in the kit. These ply pieces are cut for the wing saddle and cut to the angle of the front and back of the cabin. (The smaller pieces with the wing saddle cut-out are cabin doublers and are not used at this time.) 7. Measure and mark the location of the front of these cabin sides on both fuselage sides. With the fuselage sides resting flat on your waxed-paper covered work bench, use a thicker type cyanoacrylate or epoxy adhesive to glue the cabin sides to the fuselage sides, 8. Glue the wing saddle doubler to the inside of both fuselage sides. Make certain that the wing saddle cut-out in the doubler aligns perfectly with the wing saddle of the cabin side to which it is to be glued, Note that the gap between the back of the fuel tank compartment doubler and wing saddle doubler should just fit the width of bulkhead #2. 9. Add the tri stock to the inside of fuselage sides, Relieve the top and bottom tri stock atthe back of the fuselage sides as shown on fuselage top view so the fuselage sides will mate. Properly when glued together at the tail. o 10. By referring to the plans, measure and mark the location of the elevator pushréd exit (the upper slot shown on the fuselage side view) on the right fuselage side, Mark the location Of the rudder pushrod exit (the lower slot) on the left fuselage side. Cut the pushrod exits. 11, Working on the inside of one of the fuselage sides, glue bulkheads #2 and #3 in place. Note that bulkhead #3 has a pushrod clearance hole in it and butts up to the back of the wing ‘saddle doubler, Make certain that both of these bulkheads stand square to the fuselage side. 12. Glue the fuselage sides together. With the fuselage side to which the bulkheads have been glued laying flat on your work bench, temporarily put the second fuselage side in place to assure they will mate properly. When you feel it is OK, glue the second fuselage to bulk- heads #2 and #3. Before the adhesive seis up (a slow set-up epoxy is recommended for this installation because it will give you time to check out the alignment), use a square to align both fuselage sides at the front, along the bottom edge, back, wing saddle, and top edge behind the wing to assure that they are perfectly aligned. This alignment step is critical ifthe model is to fly well. Take your time and do this carefully. 18. Glue the ply landing gear plate in place between the fuselage sides using the locator marks you made earlier. Add the tri stock along the top sides of the landing gear plate. 14. Add the lower %" tri stock in front of bulkheads #2 and #3. Note that because of the fuel tank compartment and wing saddle doublers these lengths of tri stock will be installed in two pieces. One piece runs from the bottom edge of the fuselage side up to the top of the fuselage side, The second piece is installed on the wing saddle doubler. Do not glue the upper trigtock Piece in front of bulkhead #3 until the rear wing bolt hold-down block is installed later. 15, Locate the %" thick cabin front and rear pieces. While these parts are factory cut to the correct width, it will be necessary to cut the top and bottom fo the proper angle. Glue these pieces in place between the cabin sides. 16. Glue the fuselage sides together at the tail. Make sure that they are perfectly aligned at the back and along the top and bottom before the adhesive sets up. 5 minute epoxy is recommended. 17. Making certain that the holes drilled for the nosegear block are oriented toward the bottom of the fuselage, glue and clamp the firewall in place. Itshould be installed between the fuselage sides and butt up to the front of the fuel tank compartment doubler. Before the adhesive sets up lay the fuselage over the fuselage plans top view to assure the fuselage is straight. Remove all excess adhesive from the firewall before the adhesive sets up. 18. Add the %" tri stock along the firewall/fuselage sides. Also add a Tength of tri stock along the bottom back of the firewall. ; 19. ed the % x % balsa rear hatch hold down. This piece should glue between the fuse- lage sides, 20. Locate the two rear top block pieces. Glue them together. Glue the rear top block tothe top edge of the fuselage sides. It should also glue to the back of the cabin rear piece. 21. Locate the % balsa hatch. Glue the 1/16 ply hatch hold down plate to the bottom back of the hatch. See the plans. 22. Next you are to glue in the ply front fuselage bottom. Before you do so however, mark and drill a 4” hole in the floor for nosegear strut clearance. The hole should be aligned with the center of the firewall. 28. Using the aluminum landing gear asa spacer, add the remaining balsa fuselage bottom sheeting, cross-grain. 24, Glue the engine compartment sides and bottom in place. Add the %" tri stock along the side/bottom glue joints as shown on the plans.— 25.-Add'the % baisa piece at the top front of the engine compartment. 26, Using the fuel tank as a guide, drill the holes for the fuel feed and vent lines through the firewall. Also drill the hole for the throttle linkage. This hole should be drilled along the side of the firewall approximately aligned with the height of the throttle arm. 27. Drilla %" hole in the bottom ofthe center ofthe engine compartment floor immediately in front of the firewall for engine compartment oil drainage. 28. Add the front ply hatch hold-down plate in the fuel tank compartment. Relieve the corners as necessary for the tri stock along the sides of the firewall. Put the hatch in place and drill the pilot holes for the hatch hold-down screws. Enlarge the holes through the hatch for screw clearance. 29, Add the wing mounting bolt hold-down blocks at the front and rear of the servo com- partment. Note that the front block is square to bulkhead #2 while the two rear blocks are installed to pick up the angle of the wing saddle. Asa result, the back of these! blocks will have to be custom fitted so they mate squarely to bulkhead #3. Take your time and do this carefully because if the glue joint fails it will cost you an airplane! Remove excess adhesive from the entire glue joint on the front and rear blocks. While not shown in this manner on the plans, % tri stock should be added along the sides and front of the bottom of the block and along the front (as shown) of the topside of the front block, Similarly, tri stock should be added along the side and back of both rear blocks. Also add the short lengths of tri stock under the blocks at wing saddle doubler/bulkhead joints. 30. Temporarily install the fuel tank compartment hatch. Rough sand the fuselage. Temporarily install the engine mount and engine, relieving the engine compartment sides as. necessary for engine and muffier clearance. Do not, however, drill the engine mount bolt holes in the engine mount yet. ~“ 31. Glue the ply spinner ring to the nose. Temporarily install the spinner back plate onto the engine prop shaft. With the proper fore-aft location of the engine there should be about 1/16" clearance between the spinner back plate and the ply spinner ring. If you have too much clearance, some scrap balsa can be glued to the front of the ply spinner ring so youend up with a neat job. With the engine aligned with respectto the ply spinner ‘ring andin top view, drill and tap the engine mount bolt holes in the engine mount arms. 32. Finally, with the engine bolted in place and Some masking tape placed over the carburetor and exhaust port to prevent sanding dust contamination, sand the ply spinner ring and nose to pick up the contour of the spinner ring. See the plans. ‘THE TAIL SECTION 1. Pin and glue the two sections of the stab together flat'on your wax paper covered workbench. Add the stab tips. Presand the top and bottom sides of the stab. 2. Lay both elevator halves up to the back of the stab. Temporarily lay the hardwood elevator connector piece on the elevator halves and mark the area to be ‘relieved. Relieve the elevator halves for the hardwood connector. With the elevator halves aligned to the back of the stab, glue the connector in place. 8. Remove the elevator assembly from your building board and add extra adhesive tothe bottom as necessary. Presand the top and bottom of the elevator halves. 4. Using a straight edge to align the bottom of the three fin parts, glue them together. Presand both sides of the fin. ASSEMBLING THE RIGHT WING PANEL 4. Pin down thé bottom wing spar onto the wax paper covered plans, Groups of three pins, two on one side and one in-between them on the other side of the spar, may be used tocc a anchor the spar firmly to the building board. 2. For alignmient purposes, draw a centerline down the side of each of the wing ribs, from the leading to the trailing edge. Also draw a center line down the front and back of the wing leading edge, from end to end. 3. Put rib #2 In place. (Rib #1 will be glued in last since it must be installed at the dihedral angle) by looking at the wing side view on the plans, you'll note that vertical webbing is to be installed between the spars in each wing bay. Use the webbing piece for the second wing bay to square rib #2 to the bottom spar. Rib #2 should also be aligned with the plans. Use a cyanoacrylate adhesive to glue the wing rib to the spar then give the glue joint a spritz of the cyanoacrylate accelerator to assure the adhesive sets up properly. Temporarily put the webbing for bay #2 in place and install rib #3. Remove the webbing piece and glue the rib to the bottom spar. Continue in the-same manner, working toward the tip rib. Since the plans may “stretch” slightly when reproduced, don't worry if the ribs near the tip don't align perfectly with their location as indicated on the plans. The webbing pieces will assure accurate spacing between them. 4. Next, slide a length of aileron stock under the trailing edge of the ribs to support them. 5. Glue the trailing edge stock to rib #2 and to the tip rib. (Remember that the trailing edge should run from rib #1 to the tip rib,) The top edge of the trailing edge stock: should pe aligned with the top edge of the ribs. Use some scrap balsa to block up the trailing edge at 5:6 places and check with a straight edge. Glue the rest of the wing ribs to the trailing edgestock, checking the alignment of each carefully as you go. 6, Glue in the wing leading edge. Align the center line on each rib with the center line on the back of the leading edge stock. 7. Glue the webbing in place, starting at wing bay #2 to the tip. See the wing side view. 8. Add the top spar, making certain it is glued to each wing rib and to all of the webbing pieces, 9. The root rib should be installed at an angle so when the wing panels are joined ‘the wing will have the correct dihedral. Locate the two dihedral angle templates provided on the plans. One is provided for the novice pilot and another for the more experienced. pilot. Select the template you are to use and cut it from the plans. 10. Locate the two hardwood wing bolt plates to be installed behind the ‘wing leading edge between ribs #1 & #2. On examining these blocks you will find that the bottom edge (the edge that will go toward the bottom side of the wing) has been factory cutto the rib contour. The top edge has been left flat for a good Binding surface for the wing bolt head. See the plans. ‘The root end of both of these blacks is to be cut to the angle of the root rib. The blocks will be cut different for both wing panels; there will be a right and left block when you're through. Lay both blocks side by side on your work bench with the contoured edge toward you. The 1" side (rear face of the block) should be up. Use the dihedral angle to mark the cut to be made at eta) of the right block. When properly marked the line should be the right half ofa letter “V". Turn the template over to mark the right side of the left block. When properly marked the line should be the left half of a letter “V" Mark the blocks left and right respectively and make the cut in each. 11. Using the dihedral template as a guide, cut the angle on one side of the webbing to be used in bay #1. Leave this webbing piece oversize so it can be custom fitted when itis installed. 12. Using a wing bolt plateas an alignment guide atthe leading and trailing edge of the ribto get the proper spacing and alignment of the root rib, glue the root rib in place.en 13. Custom fit and add the webbing in wing bay #1. 14. Glue the hardwood wing bolt block in place as shown on the plans. The contoured bottom edge should align with the bottom edge of the rib. 15. While not shown on the plans, some scrap balsa will have to be installed on top (flat surface) of the wing block. Another piece of % scrap should be glued to the back of the block so there is no gap between the back of the block and the top wing sheeting. Thisisnecessary ‘to prevent engine oil from getting inside the wing through the wing mounting bolt hole which is to be drilled later in the top sheeting. Glue in the filler balsa and shape to the wing rib contour. 16. As a guide for drilling the wing bolt hole later, mark the center of the wing bolt block on the side of rib #1. 17. Next the front top wing sheeting is to be installed. It butts up to the back of the wing leading edge and overlaps half of the width of the top spar. A thicker cyanoacrylate is recommended for this installation since the adhesive can be applied to all of the wing ribs and the sheeting installed before the adhesive sets up. Since the front of the sheeting bonds to the back of the leading edge, it must be beveled slightly for a good bond. Check the fit, Dampen the top surface of the sheeting with asponge so the balsa will easily bend to the rib contour. Spray the bottom and front edge of the sheet- ing with a cyanoacrylate accelerator. Apply the adhesive only to the back of the leading edge and glue the sheeting to it. Then, while bending the sheeting up, add the adhesive tothe wing ribs and down the legnth of the top spar. Press the sheeting to each of the wing ribs and to the spar to assure a good glue bond. 18. As shown on the wing side view you will note that the top trailing edge sheeting over- laps the width of the trailing edge while the bottom sheeting butts up to it. Sand the top of the trailing edge stock to the rib contour with a Jong sanding block. Glue the trailing edge sheeting in place. ‘ 19. Cut and install the 1/16 balsa center section sheeting as shown on the plans. 20. Cut and add the 1/16 balsa rib cap strips on top of ribs 4-11. Note that the cap strip on the tip rib is installed off center - so the outboard edge is flush with the outboard edge of ‘the tip rib. 23. Turn the wing over and add the bottom leading edge sheeting, trailing edge sheeting {noting that it butts up to the trailing edge stock), and the rib cap strips. 24. The length of aileron stock provided is used for both the fixed trailing edge at the ‘wing root and for the aileron. Draw a tip to tip center line down the leading edge of the aileron ‘stock. Cut the aileron and fixed trailing edge piece to size. 25. Next you are going to prepare a right and left aileron torque rod, one for each wing panel. Locate in the hardware pack two rods, each witha 90 degree bend in the threaded end, You will also find two 6" lengths of nylon tubing. Cut these pieces of nylon tubing toa length of 5-1/4" and slide the tubing onto the torque rod shaft. To assure you make a right and left aileron torque rod, lay both rods on your work bench with the 90 degree threaded ends side by side. Measure and mark the rods 5-7/8" from the ‘90 degree end. Bend the end of each of the rods up at a 90 degrees from the surface of your work bench at this mark. 26. Prepare the fixed trailing edge piece by grooving it down the center line to accept the aileron torque rod sleeve. The sleeve should fit flush into the trailing edge piece. Since the servo arm (threaded end) will hang down from the bottom of the wing, the bottom side of the trailing edge piece will have to be notched out both as clearance for the arm and to allow its backward movement. This notch should be made such that the servo arm hangs down 1/4" from the root end of the fixed trailing edge piece. 27. Tack glue the nylon sleeve into the stot, remembering thatthe servo arm should hangdown from the wing and the aileron arm extends rearward. Hold the trailing edge piece up to the wing. Mark and notch the bottom of the wing trailing edge to permit the forward movement of the aileron torque rod servo arm. 28, Glue the fixed trailing edge/aileron torque rod assembly to the wing. When properly installed it should align with the wing contour and the torque rod shaft should align with the wing rib center line. Apply the adhesive sparingly in the area of the notch and at the aileron end so excess glue doesn’t find its way to the torque rod to bind its operation. 29, The wing tip piece has been factory cut to shape in top view. itwill have to be shaped to the wing airfoil. To do so, temporarily hold (or tack glue) the tip to the wing and trace around the tip rib. Rough cut the tip fo shape. Glue the tip to the wing and finish sand it to the rib contour. 30. With the wing leading edge centerline for reference, shape the wing leading edge as shown on the wing side view. 31. Holding the aileron to the wing, mark and drill the hole for the aileron torque rod into the aileron leading edge. We recommend drilling this hole a bit oversize to permit alignment of the torque rod when it is installed. The aileron will be glued to the torque rod arm when it is hinged. Also cut a slot into the aileron leading edge inboard of the hole to accept the aileron torque rod shaft. 82. Using the center line on the front of the aileron and back of the wing leading edge for reference, cut the aileron hinge slots. We recommend that 4 hinges be used, with onelocated in bay #4, #6, #8, and #10. 88. Tack glue the aileron to the wing. Use a sanding block to finish sand the entire wing structure. 84. Break the aileron free from the wing and shape the leading edge as indicated for the elevator. See the elevator side view on the plans. THAT COMPLETES THE RIGHT WING PANEL. BUILDING THE LEFT WING PANEL $ The left wing panel is built over the plans just as was done to build the right wing panel, but with the followi xceptions. Remember that when the right wing panel was built the top side of the wing was up. When building the left wing panel you must keep in mind that the bottom side of this wing panel is up. This means that (1) when therroot rib is installed the edge of the rib that's touching the work bench will be angled toward the wing tip — rather than the top of the rib as was done with the right wing panel, and (2) the first trailing edge ‘sheet you install during construction should butt up to the trailing edge stock rather than overlap if. The second trailing edge sheet installed after the wing is turned over should overlap the wing trailing edge stock. Got that? Think about these points carefully, perhaps even making notes on your plans so you won't end up with two right wing panels when you're through! JOINING THE WING PANELS. 1. Earlier you marked the side of the root rib to indicate the location of the center of the wing bolt block. Transfer the mark (on both wing panels) to the top wing sheeting. 2, Rest the left wing panei on your work bench with some wax paper under the root end. Pin it down and block up the trailing and leading edge as necessary so it won't move. Block up the tip of the right wing panel such that the root ribs mate properly. The wings must be carefully aligned at the leading and trailing edge. Work quickly and apply a coat of 5 minute epoxy to both root ribs. Join the wing panels. Clamp the root ribs togethre to assure they will mate properly. Remove all excess adhesiveee that squeezes out of the glue joint. 3. Apply glass cloth to the wing center section, The glass cloth should be applied in one piece on the top and one piece on the bottom. It should be wide enough to run from rib #3 on one wing panel to the same rib on the other wing panel. Either resin or the thin version cyano- acrylate adhesive may be used to apply the glass cloth. Ifthe cyanoacrylate adhesiveis used, a light coat of 3M #77 spray contact cement may be applied to the glass cloth so when it is laid in place on the wing it stays where you put itwhile the adhesive is: added. Whether resin or a cyanoacrylate is used, keep it clear of the aileron torque rod servo arm hanging from the bottom side of the wing. 4. Add the ply wing hold down support at the wing trailing edge using 5 minute epoxy. See the plans. COMPLETING THE MODEL 4. Draw an end-to-end center line down the stab trailing edge and elevator leading edge. Mark and cut the elevator hinge slots in the elevator and stab on these center lines. Three | hinges should be used on each elevator half. Temporarily hinge the elevator to check your | work. Do not glue the hinges in place at this time. Shape the elevator leading edge as shown on the plans. Also sand the top and bottom of the elevator as shown. 2. Prepare to glue in the stab by drawing a leading to trailing edge center line on the top side, Temporarily put the stab in place to check its alignment. The stab should be centered on the fuselage in top view, square to the fuselage in top view, and aligned to it in front view. | Draw an alignment reference mark on the bottom of the stab along the fuselage sides. Use 6 minute epoxy to glue the stab in place, | 8. Use a sanding block to shape the leading edge and stab tips as shown on the plans. 4. Draw an end-to-end center line down the trailing edge of the fin and down the leading edge of the rudder. Mark and cut three rudder hinge slots in the fin and rudder aligned with the center line. A hinge should also be added at the bottom of the rudder with the hinge slot + cut into the back of the fuselage, If you don't have a dremel moto-tool saw blade to cut this hinge slot, heat up an X-Acto blade and use it to cut the slotinto the epoxy joint. Temporarily hinge the rudder to check your work. Shape the rudder leading edge as you did with the elevator. By checking the plans you'll find that the rudder leading edge will have to be relieved for the elevator connector clearance. Relieve the rudder leading edge. 5. Temporarily pin the fin in place. Hold the rudder up to the back of the fuselage and aligned with the fin. If the fin trailing edge does not align properly with the fin, use a sanding block to sand the bottom of the fin as necessary. 6. Use 5 minute epoxy to glue the fin in place. It should be square to the stab and aligned with the fuselage top view center line. Remove all excess adhesive. 7. Gut and presand the 1/4 trl stock pieces to be added to both sides of the fin. Glue them in place. 8. Drill the holes in the landing gear and fuselage landing gear plate and add the “T” nuts to the inside of the plate. Note that the straight edge of the aluminum landing gear is to be oriented toward the tail of the plane. 9. Temporarily put the wing in place onto the fuselage. Making sure that the wing mates properly with the wing saddle (the top of bulkhead #2 may have to be custom fitto the wing leading edge), center and square the wing to the fuselage. Also check the front view align- ment with the stab. Sand or shim the wing saddle as necessary. Tape the wing to the fuselage to assure it won't move as you work. | 10, Using the wing block centerline mark made earlier on the top wing sheeting and thea os plans for reference, drill a very smail pilot hole through the wing and into the fuselage wing bolt hold down blocks at the location of all four bolts. The rear bolts are installed at an angle such that the bolt heads will rest flat on the wing. 11. Remove the wing from the fuselage and check to assure that the holes are properly aligned on the blocks inside the fuselage. Ifall is OK, put the wing back in placeand accurate- ly realign it. (This may be done by inserting the drill bit into each of the pilot holes.) Retapeit in place. Use a drill for a 1/4 x 20 tap to drill the holes through’ the wing and fuselage hold down blocks, Remove the wing and tap the fuselage hold down blocks for 1/4 x 20 threads. Enlarge the holes in the wing for bolt clearance. 12. Relieve the balsa filler on the top of the wing mounting bolt block so the head of the bolt will rest directly on the hardwood block. See the plans. Seal the exposed balsa and hardwood with a thin instant glue to prevent oil soaking of the wood. If you wish to do so, the threads in the fuselage hold-down blocks can be reinforced by applying some instant glue down into the block. Then, after the adhesive has set up, retap the bolt holes. 48. Mount the wing to the fuselage to check your work. 44. Cut the aileron servo well onthe bottom side of the wing. A portion of the center rib will have to be relieved. Using your aileron servo as a guide, add the ply servo mounting rails to the wing. 5 minute epoxy is recommended. INSTALLING THE PUSHRODS, HORNS AND R/C EQUIPMENT ‘ 1. To prepare the rudder and elevator pushrods you will need the two hardwood dowels, two clevis rods (long wire rods threaded on one end) and two lengths of piano wire provided in the kit. Refer to the plans and cut the hardwood dowels to length. Cut 1-8/4" offofthe un- threaded end of both clevis rods. Make a 90 degree bend in the last 1/4” of both clevis rods. Drill a hole the size of the clevis rod through the dowel 1” from the end. Also cutasmall notch in the dowel from the hole to the end to accept the clevis rod. Thoroughly sand the end of the clevis rod and glue it into the hole and slot in the dowel. Finally, wrap the end of the dowel/clevis rod with some thread and coat the area with 5 minute epoxy. The length of piano wire is to be attached to the other end of the dowel pushrods in the same manner. 2. Temporarily install the pushrods such that the threaded end extends out of the pushrod exits in the fuselage side. Screw the nylon clevis (provided in the kit) onto the threaded end of the clevis rod. It should be screwed on far enough so the threads show on the inside of the clevis. Using the clevis as a guide, locate and install the rudder and elevator control horns - to which the clevises will attach. In installing the contro! horns it is important to note that the clevis rod should follow as straight a path as possible to the control horns. When the control horns are installed the row of clevis holes should align with the control surface hinge line. Drill the holes for the contro! horn mounting screws. Temporarily install the control horns to check your work. The screws should be inserted through the control horn base, through the control surface, and into the nut plate. If the clevis rods bind on the pushrod exits, the exits may be enlarged as necessary. At the servo end, the piano wire shoutd be bent up at 90 degrees. The wire is installed up through the servo output wheel or arm, then the wheel or arm is installed into the servo. A plastic keeper is installed onto the pushrod wire to keep it from sliding down and jamming against the servo. Bend the servo end of the pushrod wire after the servos are installed. 3. servos are to be installed on servo mounting rails provided in the kit. If your R/C systerf includes a tray to which the servos are installed, the tray will be mounied to the railsindicated on the plans. ‘Use the pushrods as a guide to determine the height of the servos inside the fuselage. Note, however, that the servos must be low enough to clear the aileron servo when the wing is in- stalled. Add the servo mounting rails. Remove all excess adhesive from around the servo rail/fuselage side glue joint. Add some scrap 1/4 tri stock around all four sides of each fuselage/servo rail joints. This will assure the rails won't break loose during a hard landing. 4. Temporarily install the servos and mark and bend the servo end of the pushrod wires. 5. Tube-in-a-guide-tube pushrods are provided for the throttle and nosegear steering linkage. The throttle linkage should run down the inside of the fuselage side in the fuel tank compartment, through bulkhead #2 and to the throttle servo. To make this linkage adjustable at the throttle, a 2-56 machine screw with the head cut off is installed at the throttle end of the inner tube. A clevis is then attached to the threaded rod. At the servo end a short rod, threaded on one end, is used. A.90 degree bend (with plastic keeper) is used to connect the rod to the servo output. The outer tubing should be glued to the firewall arid to bulkhead #2. 6. For the nasegear linkage 2-56 machine screw with the clevis cut off and clevis are used to attach the linkage to the rudder servo because not enough space is available between the firewall and nosegear steering arm. The short rod with a 90 degree bend and keeper is used to connect the linkage to the outer hole in the nosegear steering arm. When properly installed, the nosegear steering arm should be oriented atabout 15 degrees to the firewall (with the nosegear wheel straight). This is necessary to allow the forward movement of the steering arm when the nosegear is turned to the right. 7. Toattach the aileron linkage, two clevis rods are used. A screw-on aileron clevis attach fitting is added to each of the aileron torque rod servo arms. A 90 degree bend and keeper is ued to attach both clevis rods to the aileron servo. It is critical that both of the aileron attach fittings are exactly the same distance from the wing so both ailerons have the same amount of movement. ft is also important to point out that when the transmitter aileron contro! stick is moved to the right, the right aileron should go up and the left down. And vice-versa. 8, The fuel tank, battery, and receiver should be installed in a nest of loose fitting foam rubber in their respective compartments. The receiver antenna wire should be routed out of the fuselage as close to the receiver as possible — and separated from the battery and servo wires as much as possible with pieces of foam rubber. A grommet or piece of fuel tubing should be installed in the antenna exit hole in the fuselage side to prevent chaffing of the wire. At the rear the antenna wire is attached to a pin instalied in the fin tip with a small elastic band, do not, under any circumstances, cut the receiver wire or loop it back on itself. Either of these procedures will shorten the range of your R/C system. If the antenna pas eee beyond the length of the fuselage, just let it hang free to trail the plane while in flight. 9. The receiver switch and battery charging jack ate installed in the fuselage side oppo- site the muffler. This will minimize fuel contamination of the switch. 10, Seal the engine compartment, fuel tank compartment, hatch bottom, and fuselage bottom in the area of the landing gear with resin to prevent fuel contamination. 11. You are now ready to cover the model. We recommend the use of one of the iron-on plastic film covering materials because they are easily and quickly applied, provide a high luster, fuel-proof finish, and allow you to remove warps easily. Before you begin covering the model, however, it is important to think about hinging the control surfaces. The entire model, including the control surfaces may be covered first, then hinged. Or, a small strip of covering material may be applied along the leading edge of the control surfaces and along the trailing edge of the flying surfaces (the wing, stab, and fin). a etan Then these control surfaces are hinged. Oncé hinged, a hole the size of a round toothpick is drilled through each hinge leaf and a piece of toothpick is glued in each hole. The ends of the toothpick are then sanded flush with the balsa and the covering is completed. This procedure will assure that the hinges will not pull out under heavy air loading. On the other hand, if the control surfaces are completely covered before they are hinged, we recommend installing a cut-off straight pin into each hinge leaf. The pin is inserted from the bottom of the control surface and glued in place with an instant glue so it won't show. To glue the hinges in place first lightly sand the hinges to roughen them a bit. Fold each hinge about 5 times to get them working freely. Next, drill a small hole at both ends of each hinge slot. Slide the hinge in place, aligned to its flying surface with as small a hinge gap as necessary for free movement of the control surface. Add a thin instant glue along both sides of the hinge. Also add a few drops into the hole at either end of the hinge. Remember than when the aileron hinges are installed the aileron torque rod is alsd glued into the aileron. 5 minute epoxy should be used. It is also important that the aileron torque rod servo arms are aligned to each other with both ailerons aligned to the wing contour. 12. With the model complete, add the foam wing seating tape to the fuselage wing saddle. Check the operation of the control surfaces to assure there is no binding and that they operate properly. Apply right rudder stick and the rudder and nosegear should move to the fight. Push the elevator control stick forward and the elevator should go down. Push the aileron control stick to the right and the right aileron should go up and the left should go down. Push the throttle control stick forward and the throttle should open. When the throttle -- control stick is pulled all of the way back, the engine should idle. (It may be necessary to experiment by using different holes in the throttle servo arm orthrattie arm togettheghrottle throw set up properly.) Finally, when the throttle contro! stick is set at an idle and the throttle trim is pulled full back, the engine should quit. 13, Check the C.G. or center of gravity of the model. This is shown on the plansasasymbol located under the wing spar. Mount the wing onto the fuselage and with the model complete, including wheels, muffler, and fuel tank, lift it by placing a finger under the wing close to the fuselage sidés at the spar. The model should balance level or very slightly nose down. If it balances tail down try moving the battery pack forward — into the bottom of the fuel tank compartment. (If mounted in this location the battery pack should be wrapped ina plastic bag to prevent possible fuel contamination in the event of a leaking fuel line or fuel tank. If moving the battery isn’t adequate some stick-on weight (available at your: hobby shop) will have tobe added ee nose. If the model balances nose down, some weight will have to be added to the tail. 14, While on the subject of balancing the model, remove the wing and support it at the center of the leading and trailing edge. If one wing tip is heavy add some nails to the light wing tip. The prop should also be balanced to minimize engine vibrations. if this is your first R/C model, we urge you to take it back to the hobby shop where it was purchased to have your construction and radio installation checkéd out before you attempt to fly. It is also critical that you find an experienced R/C pilot to help you out on your first flights. He of she will completely check out your model and perform the in-flight trim during its first flight to get it flying as it should. This Is the best flight insurance available. And, above all, make absolutely certain that your frequency is clear before you turn your R/C equipment on at the field. Fly safely and have fun.