ae ine of bape
faeterial
Tate point 205 fom trate
ea
2 barnbarner., one nore tine!
amie! along
Plank with 1/0°% appears 5/6"
Yelee HeripesSuggested sail plan for
"SUNSONG" and "LONA™
One Meter yachts
measured to edge of sail
material.
3/4"
NOTE:
Jibstay attached to
mest approximately
9” from masthead.
598.125 sa. ins.
Dotted outline
legal and
recomended.LONA"
"LONA" is an ONE METER clase model yacht. Here are a few suggestions
to help you "first time builders" get started. It's easier than you thinks
I use a “warp-free" piece of 5/e"x12"x 48" particle board shelving for « build-
ing beard. Maybe you have « better idee?
Cover the board with shelf paper or 7? Use masking tape to hold in plece.
Draw a centerline on beard.
Draw station lines at right angles to centerline, See plen for spacing.
Lightly mail small wood blecks (3/4" aq. X 1) to board at station lines, Don't
rive acils home es they will be removed later,
Se OTe ate ae le woe wok woe ante
ia
rr U
‘Trace frame patterns on 1/8" plywood er ether thin scrap stock. I use mahogany
"Qoorskin". It's relatively inexpensive. These frames (formers) will be discarded
later, Be sure you have marked the centerline on each frame. Cut out frames.
Glue (5 Minute epoxy) frames to blocks en building board.Use a smell gauge or square
to make sure the frames are perpendiculer to the bord. The centerline on frame
must line up with centerline on board. Glue the plywood stem in place, Glue former
#0 to edge of stem piece. Glue inner 1 in place. Glue outer keel in position,
Trim end teper keel et bow,
Fit and glue inner sheer clamp in place. Work on both sides of hull et the same
time. This insures « symmetrical hull. Double the clamp and hold in place with clamp
clothes pins until glue is dry.2
The bull ie planked with 1/8"x 5/16" (epprox.) X 48" belse wood strips. An inex-
pensive belee stripper ie e must! Cyeno-eerylete (instant) gep filling type
glues are greet or you can use white or cerpenter's glue (and pins), Stert plenking
et the clamps and work up to the keel. Glue the paenks to frame #€ end “10 (trene
son) end to esch adjoining plank. Do not glue to each freme. When necessary,
devel plenk edges with a sandpaper block or emall block plane to get a good fit,
When you heve plenked to the waterline (eppromimetely) you will find thet it is
difficult to bend the plenks to make e good fit. Start planking from the keel.
It's e good idee to ley e pine insert in the fin aren. Cut short pine planks the
thickness and width of the belse planking, Ghue a stub plank on either side of the
keel in the fin rea. This insures a more solid mounting for the fin, Continue with
‘the belss planking until the job is finished,
Wnen glue is dry, remove hull from building board. A longhandled screwdriver insert-
ed under the blocks will pry them up easily (?).
Glue the pine noseblock in place. Sand hull to finiehed shape. Use e sanding block
end sand across the grain et a 45 degree angle for best results. Apply e layer of
fibergless cloth ( the lighter, the better!) to hull using resin or epoxy (don't
forget to catalyse). ‘Trim excess cloth. Apply a second cost of resin and sand,
Remove frames (one et time) and install deck beams.
THERE'S YOUR HULL! BE SURE TO WATERPROOF THE INSIDE OF THE HULL, White glue is
water soluble which could be disastrous when you put your bort in the water !
The interior arrangements ( deck, rudder, redioand sail sheeting equipenent) are
up to you, Also mast, boom and sails.
Tt would be # good idea to install a 1/4" deck beam at the mast location. This
carries ell the weight (pressure) of the mast.NO
LONA
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