Make This Powerful
PISTOL CROSSBOW
By EDWIN LOVE
by ae create quite a sensation at your
next aichery mect when you start
banging away at the target with bolts
from your own hand-crafted pistol crossbow.
In fact, everyone will want to try his skill
at shooting this rare one-of-a kind weapon.
‘This is no toy, either, and should be treated
with the same respect due any weapon. For
the wallop this baby packs makes it eapable
of driving a 6-in. bolt through a bull’s-eye at
150 ft, Its power is stored in a springsteel
how which requires a special cocking device
(“goat's foot") to provide the leverage neces-
sary to draw back the bowstring and set it
in the notched wheel of the weapon's trigger
mechanism.
Your First Step in making the crossbow is
to draw a 54% x Sin. grid of '4-in. squares on
paper. Then copy the outline of the pistol
stock (side view, Fig. 3) using the '4-in,
squares to enlarge it, Also copy the outline
of the cocking side plate and trigger guard.
Use carbon paper to transfer the pistol-stock
drawing to 1-in.thick maple or walnut)
stock. After sawing the stock to shape drill
a %-in, hole up through the center of the
pistol grip and then insert a Yg-in. dowel,
gluing it in place. This will prevent the grip
from splitting with the grain.
Make the Two Cocking Plates by first
transfering your full-size drawing of each to
¥s-in.-thick steel. A series of prick-punch
marks spaced about ¥% in. apart along the
outline will serve as a dotted guide line to
follow when cutting the steel. ‘The latter is
done by using a jigsaw or hand coping
saw fitted with a fine-tooth metal-cut-
ting blade. (In a pinch you can rough-cut
these parts to size with a cold chisel, then
file and grind them to the correct dimen-
sions.) Now clamp the two plates together
and drill the holes for the rivets—made from
the shanks of 16d (34-in.) common nails.
Countersink these holes so that the rivets set
lush.
Next rough-file down each side of the stock
grip to a thickness of 1% in, Clamp the
cocking plates to the sides of the grip so that
they are positioned as shown in Fig. 3 and
drill rivet holes through the grip. Then mark
the grip for mortising the plates into it by
tracing around the plates with a sharp pencil.
Remove the plates and cut around the mor-
tise edge with a gouge or narrow chise] mak-
ing it slightly undersize. Make several cut
lines across the grein to break up chips and
Science and Mecuawicsestablish the 14-in, depth of the mortise. Hol-
low out the mortise by hand chiseling or with
a router bit in a drill press. Replace the
plates and hammer-tap them into the mor-
tise edges so that an imprint is left; after
trimming to this imprint the plates will fit
snugly. Before replacing the plates, work the
grip down to its rounded form with chisel
anl rasp. To aid in forming it symmetrically,
make a couple of cardboard templates (Fig.
3B) to check the roundness of the grip. Fair
off the grip toward the top and round the
corners of the stock.
Mortising for the Trigger Mechanism can
be done now or after the plates are riveted
to the grip. In either case lay out the size
of the mortise on top of the stock and bore
it out, starting with the end holes and work-
ing toward the center with holes overlapping
(Fig. 3C). Set the drill-press depth gauge
to avoid boring too deeply. Chisel the sides
of the mortise smooth and square the ends.
Before attaching the cocking plates grind
them roughly to the contour of the grip. Then
force the ito th rtises, push the I |. “Goat's foot” cocks crosshow—hooks to chan-
ae es othe nee eu sides, draws back bowstring, sets it in wheel.
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