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Make This Powerful PISTOL CROSSBOW By EDWIN LOVE by ae create quite a sensation at your next aichery mect when you start banging away at the target with bolts from your own hand-crafted pistol crossbow. In fact, everyone will want to try his skill at shooting this rare one-of-a kind weapon. ‘This is no toy, either, and should be treated with the same respect due any weapon. For the wallop this baby packs makes it eapable of driving a 6-in. bolt through a bull’s-eye at 150 ft, Its power is stored in a springsteel how which requires a special cocking device (“goat's foot") to provide the leverage neces- sary to draw back the bowstring and set it in the notched wheel of the weapon's trigger mechanism. Your First Step in making the crossbow is to draw a 54% x Sin. grid of '4-in. squares on paper. Then copy the outline of the pistol stock (side view, Fig. 3) using the '4-in, squares to enlarge it, Also copy the outline of the cocking side plate and trigger guard. Use carbon paper to transfer the pistol-stock drawing to 1-in.thick maple or walnut) stock. After sawing the stock to shape drill a %-in, hole up through the center of the pistol grip and then insert a Yg-in. dowel, gluing it in place. This will prevent the grip from splitting with the grain. Make the Two Cocking Plates by first transfering your full-size drawing of each to ¥s-in.-thick steel. A series of prick-punch marks spaced about ¥% in. apart along the outline will serve as a dotted guide line to follow when cutting the steel. ‘The latter is done by using a jigsaw or hand coping saw fitted with a fine-tooth metal-cut- ting blade. (In a pinch you can rough-cut these parts to size with a cold chisel, then file and grind them to the correct dimen- sions.) Now clamp the two plates together and drill the holes for the rivets—made from the shanks of 16d (34-in.) common nails. Countersink these holes so that the rivets set lush. Next rough-file down each side of the stock grip to a thickness of 1% in, Clamp the cocking plates to the sides of the grip so that they are positioned as shown in Fig. 3 and drill rivet holes through the grip. Then mark the grip for mortising the plates into it by tracing around the plates with a sharp pencil. Remove the plates and cut around the mor- tise edge with a gouge or narrow chise] mak- ing it slightly undersize. Make several cut lines across the grein to break up chips and Science and Mecuawics establish the 14-in, depth of the mortise. Hol- low out the mortise by hand chiseling or with a router bit in a drill press. Replace the plates and hammer-tap them into the mor- tise edges so that an imprint is left; after trimming to this imprint the plates will fit snugly. Before replacing the plates, work the grip down to its rounded form with chisel anl rasp. To aid in forming it symmetrically, make a couple of cardboard templates (Fig. 3B) to check the roundness of the grip. Fair off the grip toward the top and round the corners of the stock. Mortising for the Trigger Mechanism can be done now or after the plates are riveted to the grip. In either case lay out the size of the mortise on top of the stock and bore it out, starting with the end holes and work- ing toward the center with holes overlapping (Fig. 3C). Set the drill-press depth gauge to avoid boring too deeply. Chisel the sides of the mortise smooth and square the ends. Before attaching the cocking plates grind them roughly to the contour of the grip. Then force the ito th rtises, push the I |. “Goat's foot” cocks crosshow—hooks to chan- ae es othe nee eu sides, draws back bowstring, sets it in wheel. Shorty chance Hees! STEEL — » aexie RH WoonscREW. fs x1 LG ly, LG HEX FH. MACHINE SCREW WASHERS HG x12 MACHINE SCREWS ANGLE FA PISTOL AsSemBLy apie # DOWEL ‘Marcu, 1963 * MEANS 3 SECOND ‘STATIONT piso amie sr0cx }—STATION

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