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Culture Documents
A decade after the launch of Rookie Mag, Tavi Gevinson’s cult online
zine, a handful of writers and readers speak to its lasting impact on
culture today.
October 7, 2021
Over the next seven years, Rookie became a refuge for teens who felt
alienated in their suburban hometowns and by high school cliques. It
was made for teenagers who hated being teenagers, but through the
romantic haze of a Petra Collins photo series or a peek into the
confessional pages of another teen’s journals, being a teen suddenly
seemed aspirational rather than an awkward phase spent waiting for
real life to begin. The online zine folded in 2018, but the archive
remains online for old fans to revisit and new readers to discover —
and the site still averages 220K views per month.
Rookie approached topics from politics and mental health to sex and
drugs through an intimate, educational lens for teens, with most of its
content created by teens. Essentially grown out of Tavi’s bedroom, a
progression from her diary-like fashion blog Style Rookie, Rookie was
inspired by riot grrrl-era fanzines and 90s teen magazine Sassy.
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Writer Stephanie Kuehnert had been in high school in the ‘90s and
always dreamed of making a zine with her friends. When she heard
what Tavi was doing, she reached out. Kuehnert went on to write for
Rookie from its launch up until its final month in November 2018. “We
had a Facebook group for staff and it was like a big slumber party,”
she recalls. “I remember the day it launched, I was at a wedding and I
sat in the bathroom of the motel refreshing the website and waiting
for it to go live.”
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With no official office space and many of its contributors still in high
school, the Rookie staff interacted digitally via email or Facebook
groups, occasionally meeting up for events like Rookie Prom or the
Rookie Road Trip. “The Rookie Prom was one of the best parties I’ve
ever been to,” says writer Arabelle Sicardi, another member of the
original Rookie staff. “It was a basement party at a hotel in New York.
We did readings [from the site] and everyone was dancing. When all
the staff met up in person for the first time it was like a family reunion,
but when you grow up on the internet, meeting a person is not a
definitive aspect of your relationship.”
When Olivia Rodrigo borrowed from Hole’s Live Through This cover art
to promote SOUR Prom, Courtney Love accused her of plagiarism —
but for Rookie fans, Olivia Rodrigo and Courtney Love were already
part of the same visual world. This is largely thanks to Olivia’s ongoing
collaboration with Rookie photographer Petra Collins, one of the
leading creatives still propelling Rookie’s girlhood aesthetic into the
mainstream. (Both Collins and Gevinson declined to comment for this
story.) From the stickers on her face on the cover of SOUR to the
cheerleader outfit in the “brutal” music video, Olivia could have
stepped straight out of a Rookie photo series.
“The people that have created the Rookie ecosystem are also creating
culture,” adds Sicardi. “That's how it's living on. Olivia Rodrigo, the
number one pop star in the world, owes her aesthetic to Petra Collins
and the Rookie ecosystem. Pop culture is Rookie. It's all still there. It
just doesn't need to be on that particular website anymore. We've
grown out of that particular space.”
For writer Ogechi Egonu, Rookie was what gave her the confidence to
pursue writing professionally. In middle school, when Egonu had a
style blog with her twin sister, the two of them would rush home to
read Rookie every day. A few weeks after attending a Rookie event,
Egonu received a DM from one of the editors asking if she would like
to contribute some writing on the Black teen experience. “I was a fan
of Rookie before I became a writer for Rookie and I was still a fan
when I was writing for them,” she says. “My first piece was about how
lipstick helped me love my lips. Growing up I’d been bullied about
them a lot because they’re really big, so I wrote about that along with
a lipstick how-to.” Egonu continued writing for Rookie up until its fold,
contributing DIY fashion and makeup guides, self-care and thrifting
tips, and writing for Rookie’s Black hair column.
The Legacy of Rookie Mag Ten Years Later
Rookie received some criticism in its early days for how heavily it
focused on the white, slender, American teen experience, with readers
speaking up in the comments section about the lack of representation
for other ethnicities and body types. But over the years, it diversified
its content and contributors — one benefit of the zine existing digitally
was that it could welcome creatives from all around the world. South
African writer Lebohang Masango saw Rookie as a chance to learn
about another culture while sharing her own.
In 2013, Petra Collins gifted Tavi a book titled “Nothing Lasts Forever,”
which contained photos of them growing up together. In her
December editor’s letter from that year, Tavi describes “forever” as
“the state, exclusive to those between the ages of 13 and 17, in which
one feels both eternally invincible and permanently trapped.” Rookie
fostered a great awareness of the passing of time. It encouraged
fevered documentation of every moment whether in journals or
collages or film photographs. However, documenting it all will never
stop time from passing.
Our teenage years don’t last forever, and Rookie Mag didn’t either. But
like a memory of a first drive or a first kiss, Rookie lingers on. It’s still
there, in the art and friendships it helped bring into existence, and the
importance it put on being a teenage girl.