5 1966b, pp 21-24.) If units of feet subscript is omitted. (Ippen, 19660) DP A ore at eo 5.12 fF ang seconds are specified, the constant &/ ql t/sec2 7 c= BE = 5:12 T Kft/secd, ‘on (ayy and 7 L, = E— = 5127 (fr). Qn (ag) 7 is used to compute wave celerity when the relative the resulting error will be about 9 percent. 1¢ 3{°Pth : s ase ting” I€ Equation 2- is d/L = 0.25, a dent that a relative depth of 0.5 is a satisfactory boundary separa, deepwater waves from waves in water of transitional depth. If a traveling in transitional depths, Equations 2-2 and 2-3 must be rave is out simplification. Care should be exercised to use Equations aoe Yin, when necessary, that is, when the relative depth is between 1/2 and 1 ay 25 When the relative water depth becomes shallow, i.e. a/L < 1/25, Equation 2-2 can be simplified to , 0 Pal < a4 oy c= ved. This relation, attributed to Lagrange, is of importance when deali long-period waves, often referred to as long waves. Thus, when a neytith travels in shallow water, wave celerity depends only on water depth” (2-9) 2.232 The Sinusoidal Wave Profile. The equation describing the ¢; surface as a function of time t, and horizontal distance x for simple sinusoidal wave can be shown to be ate a= acos (2% - 28) amx at = SE ue | LE T 2 \T Ti)’ (2-10) where n is the elevation of the water surface relative to stillwater level, and H/2 is one-half the wave height equal to the wave amplitua a. This expression represents a periodic, sinusoidal, progressive wave. traveling in the positive x-direction. For a wave moving in the negative x-direction, one need only replace the minus sign before 2nt/T with a When (2nx/L - 2rt/T) equals 0, 1/2, m, 31/2, the corresponding plus sign. H/2, 0, - H/2,, and 0, respectively. values of n are 2.233 Some Useful Functions. It can be shown by dividing Equation 2-3 by Equation 2-6, and by dividing Equation 2-4 by Equation 2-8 that CLE an (28 r= aah (>). Gm) 2-10If both sides of Equation 2-11 are multiplied by d/L, it becomes: d 2 oe (ote (2-12) ay The term d/Lo has been tabulated as a function of d/L by Wiegel (1954), and is presented in Appendix C on Table C-1. Table C-2 includes d/L as a function of d/lp in addition to other useful functions such as 2nd/L and tanh(2nd/L). “These functions simplify the solution of wave problems described by the linear theory. An example problem illustrating the use of linear wave theory and the tables in Appendix C follows: eee He * EXAMPLE PROBLEM * tH RRA RR EE GIVEN: A Wave with a period of T = 10 seconds is propagated shoreward “over a uniformly sloping shelf from a depth of d = 600 feet to a depth of d= 10 feet. FIND: The wave celerities C and lengths. L corresponding to depths of d 600 feet and d = 10 feet. SOLUTION: Using Equation 2-8, L, = 5.12T* = 5.12(10)? = 512 feet. For d = 600 feet 4 _ 600 L, 512 1.1719. From Table C-1 it is seen that for values of 2510 i 4 - Ly therefore d = 512 feet (Hermes wave, since > > 2-11By Equation 2-1 L 512 Cag 12 c mm . 51.2 ft/sec. 10 For d = 10 feet a 5 et = 0.0195, eee 512) Entering Table C-1 with d/Ly it is found that, a = 0.05692, L hence 10. itional depth, since <4 < 0.05692 = 176 feet (easton lepth, since 25 L 2 1 cn HH L176 fhe. T 10 j SR REE 2.234 Local Fluid Velocities and Accelerations. In wave force studies, it is often desirable to know the local fluid velocities and accelerations for various values of z and t during the passage of a wave. The horizontal component u, and the vertical component w, of the local fluid velocity are given by: gi cosh [2n(z+a/L] | (2 _ =), to-in L ~ cosh (2nd/L) Ls ug sinh 2n(2+d)/L) (= . ), ein 'L cosh (2nd/L) Lemar, These equations express the local fluid velocity components any distance (z + d) above the bottom. The velocities are harmonic in both x and t. For a given value of the phase angle 8 = (2nx/L - 2nt/T), the hyperbolic functions, cosh and sinh, as functions of z result in an approximate exponential decay of the magnitude of velocity components with increasing distance below the free surface. The maximum positive horizontal velocity 2-12 |occurs when © = 0, 2m, etc., while the maximum horizontal velocity in the negative direction occurs when 6 = 1, 3m, etc. On the other hand the maximum positive vertical velocity occurs when 6 = 1/2, S1/2, etc., and the maximum vertical velocity in the negative direction occurs when @ = 3/2, 70/2, etc. (See Figure 2-3.) The local fluid particle accelerations are obtained from Equations 2-13 and 2-14 by differentiating each equation with respect to t. Thus, gH cosh (2n(z+d)/L]} 2nx 2at e+ 2 — i —-+ — 2-1: = L coh(Qrdty “" (a 4 ee gmH_ sinh [2n(z+d)/L} nx 2at =-f -—— ta | Fanci GM dd (2-16: Oe cd = Ve Tee a Positive and negative values of the horizontal and vertical fluid accelerations for various values of 6 = 2nx/L - 2nt/T are shown in Figure 2-3. The following problem will illustrate the computations required to determine local fluid velocities and accelerations resulting from wave motions. ak eR RA RR HAH ® EXAMPLE PROBLEM * * * * HHH HR ER A wave with a period of T = 8 seconds, in a water depth of = 50 feet, and a height of H = 18 feet. GIVE! FIND: The local horizontal and vertical velocities, u and w, and accelerations a, and a, at a depth d = 15 feet below the SWL when @ = 2x/L -2nt/T = 1/3 (60 degrees). SOLUTION: Calculate Ly 0 5.12T? = 5,.12(8)? = 328 feet , so d — = 0.1526 . I, From Table C-1 in Appendix C for a value of 4 — = 0.1526 , Ly 2nd x 0.1854: cosh 4 = 1.759 , L L 2-13SUOTIeIaTIDOy PU SATITOOTOA PINTY Te9OT “E-< eINBTY uz 2/ue a 2/n 0 8 -="D!0=%D o=7p!-=%p Zp!9=*n O=70!+=% ~=%0!Q=%d © © SO uol}osajaooy O=mt+en -=Mtozn +2mtoen o=m! Ayl9018q, UoljoBodosg anom yo uoljoadig ——— Ay129189 2-14hence 50 L=——_a. dies4 = 270 feet . Evaluation of the constant terms in Equations 2-13 through 2-16 gives Bel 1 = 18.32.2)(8) _ 2L cosh @nd/L) ~ 3¢070) (1.758) ~ “8% er 1 _ 18(32.2) @) L cosh @rd/L) ~ ~(270) (0.758) ~ >8*- Substitution into Equation 2-13 gives S 2n(50 — 15)] u = 4.88 cosh [ a0 | [cos 60°] = 4.88 [cosh (0.8145)] (0.500). From Table C-1 find = 0.8145 and by interpolation cosh (0.8145) = 1.3503, and sinh (0.8145) = 0.9074. Therefore 4.88 (1.3503) (0.500) = 3.29 ft/sec, w= 4.88 (0.9074) (0.866) = 3.83 ft/sec, a, = 3.84 (1.3503) (0.866) = 4.49 ft/sec?, &, = —3.84 (0.9074) (0.500) = — 1.74 ft/sec? Figure 2-3, a sketch of the local fluid motion, indicates that the fluid under the crest moves in the direction of wave propagation and returns during passage of the trough. Linear theory does not predict any mass transport; hence the sketch shows only an oscillatory fluid motion. 2.235 Water Particle Displacements. Another important aspect of linear wave mechanics deals with the displacements of individual water particles within the wave. Water particles generally move in elliptical paths in shallow or transitional water and in circular paths in deep water. If the 2-15oe Particle position is considered to be at the center of the ellipse ircle, then vertical particle displacement with respect to the mean peighen cannot exceed one-half the wave height. Thus, since the wave | ite mean pessumed to be small, the displacement of any fluid particle ¢, | mean position is small. Integration of Equations 2-13 and 2-14 giv" the horizontal and vertical particle displacement from the mean POsitig:® Tespectively. (See Figure 2-4.) en, Thus, | = HRT? cosh [2nd] 2 ' 4x cosh (2nd/L) en) _, Hel? sinh [2n(z+d)/L onx nt =+ ————— =- = 5 TS + GL coh@rdity °° \ ~ r) (2-18) The above equations can be simplified by using the relationship an _ dng 2nd (2) =o 2 Thus, ge — HB cosh lente + aL) an (28% _ 2a 2 2 sinh Qrd/L) LT) (2-19) 4 H sinh [mG + d)/L) 2ux _ nt pe sink rary) SVE (2-20) Writing Equations 2-19 and 2-20 in the following forms: _, (2ex _2t\ _ [g _ sink (Qrd/L) | mrt] © [a coh near’ a (2nx_2nt) _ [§ _sinh@Qnd/L) oo Nr FT a sinh [2n(z+a/L]} * and adding, gives: . poe eptypoth (2-21) in which jw H cosh (nt ait) ~ 2 sinh Qrd/L)* (2-23) H. sinh [2n(z+d)/L} BD sinh @rd/L) G25 2-16SOAeN TezeNd90q PUP TOIeY-MOTTeYS JOJ UOTITSog ULoH WOXZ sqUoWSDdeTdsyg eTOTIZeg TOIeM “y-Z oaNBTy $F BADM J8}0M~|OUO!}/SUDI] JO anom J8)0%- HOI] ONS oxn o=m g=V $1140 40]n9J1 <-iteae lon ean the equation of an ellipse with a major (horizonta) lengths of n £2, 4: and a minor (vertical) semiaxis equal to B. placements of te vate ne measures of the horizontal and vertical dis. Sean ee the water particles, Thus, the water particles are Predig to te inne s osed orbits by linear wave theory: i.e., each particle ret, ts initial position after each wave cycle. Morison and Crooke (a9s3)"8 feanared laboratory measurements of particle orbits with wave theory ang’ found, as had others, that particle orbits were not completely closed, Thy afference between linear theory and observations is due to the mass tral" Port phenomenon which is discussed in a subsequent section. 7 Examination of Equations 2-22 and 2-23 shows that for deepwater Conditions A and B are equal and particle paths are circular. The equations become di em . H A=Be- for — > 2-2 2°. for 5 > > (2-24) For shallow-water conditions, the equations become HOL Az=- =— 2 2nd tan for = < = (2-25) H oxtd a .Be> = 2 4d Thus, in deep water, the water particle orbits are circular. The more shallow the water, the flatter the ellipse. The amplitude of the water particle displacement decreases exponentially with depth and in deepwater regions becomes small relative to the wave height at a depth equal to one-half the wavelength below the free surface, i.e., when z= - ly/2. This is illustrated in Figure 2-4. For shallow regions, horizontal particle displacement near the bottom can be large. In fact, this is apparent in offshore regions seaward of the breaker zone where wave action and turbulence lift bottom sediments into suspension. The vertical displacement of water particles varies from a minimum of zero at the bottom to a maximum equal to one-half the wave height at the surface. eee bee ee eo eee meee pr Chee ene sncend PROVI ‘2n\? _ 2ag 2nd (a) =) = = tanh{(—}. | T re VT | aH cosh [2x(2+d)/L] |, (2ex _ 2at\ T. sinh 2nd/L) LT @) us 2-18SOLUTION (a) Equation 2-3, Equation 2-1, Therefore, equating 2-1 and 2-3, L_ ef 2nd T 7 2, mh o : and multiplying both sides by (2n)2/LT Qa? L _ Gn) gr (224 LD ety aT) €) (b) Equation 2-13 may be written Hence, u — 8TH cosh [2n(z+d)/L] ‘Qnx 2nt L T 2L cosh (2nd/L) _ 1 gH cosh (2n(eta/t] — (anx 2m “C2 coshQndity) “\E ” 4 since as LC Since 2 2ad) 7H 1 cosh [2n(2 4 AV/L) | (20x at) ~ "T tanh(@nd/L) cosh Qnd/L) . + 2-19