Sundress

PATTERN
№ 217
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Love, Olga Grasser
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STEP 1. GARMENT DESCRIPTION

A-line sundress with shoulder straps hits above knees.

Front part has bust darts. Upper edge is finished with
The pattern is ideal f
facing. There are slits in the side seams.
or newbies.

We have made a free tutorial for this pattern.

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STEP 2. WEARING EASE OF A GARMENT,

SEAM ALLOWANCES AND THE MAIN
ALTERATIONS OF THE PATTERN
Wearing ease of a garment, cm
Measuring sector The amount of ease

Bust-line 2,2
Waist-line 32,2
Hips-line 12,5

Garment Length Measurements, sm

Garment sector 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
The distance from 7th cervical 17,7- 17,9- 18,1- 18,3- 18,5- 18,7- 18,9- 19,1- 19,3-
vertebra to the back detail 18,2 19,3 19,5 19,7 19,9 20,1 20,3 20,5 20,7
(aproximatelly)
Finished back length along the 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6-
center back 72,1 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2

For personal taste, you may want to make alterations to adjust the length and
volume of the pieces before cutting.

Garment seam allowances, mm

Stitching seam allowances 10

Vari-overlock stitch or the serger stitch seam allowances 7,5
Garment hem seam allowances 30
Vent seam allowances 30

If you are not happy with our given seam allowances, please add your own while
cutting the pattern pieces.

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STEP 3. WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Tools and Equipment

If you do not have an overlock:

Straight stitch sewing machine;
1. use regular machine’s vari-overlock
3 thread overlock machine;
stitch that mimics a serger’s stitch. Steam iron;
2. Finish raw edges with bias tape. Ironing board.

Supplies

Fabric suggestions: If you are not going to create

a stiff A-line silhouette, you
For sewing this garment we recommend natural
can choose a flowing and fluid
lightweight non-stretch fabrics with tight weaving.
Such fabrics will hold shape well, remove moisture in fabric. It can be viscose or silk.
the heat and dry quickly. Linen or cotton is perfect. There is more detailed
Fabric can be with or without pattern. information on fabric choice in
the tutorial. Part 1.
Interfacing materials:
For better quality of sewing, we recommend to use
the interfacing material. For example, the interfacing
material with the density of 20/30 g/m2 and with the You can purchase
width of 150 cm will be a good choice. The density of interfacing in our
store.
the interfacing material depends on the main fabric
density.

Threads:
Choose thread accordingly to the thickness of your
fabric. We recommend using threads from №45 till
№65. Numbering depends on the producer. You will
need 1 bobbin for sewing machine and 3 bobbins for
serger.

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Amount of Fabrics (in metres)

Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

Main fabric, wide 140 cm 1,00- 1,05- 1,05- 1,25- 1,25- 1,55- 1,55- 1,65- 1,65-
1,05 1,10 1,10 1,35 1,35 1,70 1,70 1,80 1,80

Interfacing, 150 cm wide 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30

Edge fusible tape 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55

Bias fusible tape 1,10 1,14 1,18 1,22 1,26 1,30 1,34 1,38 1,42

The usage of all needed materials is calculated as the average, according

to 4 main height types. Also, a little extra fabric (compulsory!) is included in case
of fabric shrinkage (10-15 cm).

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STEP 4. GARMENT DETAILS AND

CUTTING.
Main fabric details

Pattern pieces layout of the main fabric

List of the main fabric pieces

1 Back – 1 detail;
2 Front – 1 detail;
3 Back facing – 1 detail;
4 Front facing – 1 detail;
5 Shoulder strap – 2 details.
When cutting pattern pieces
of the main fabric, place
them on a single fabric layer,
with right side facing down.

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Interfacing material layout

- Interfacing
Fold the fabric double with
- Edge fusible tape the right side facing in, when
- Bias fusible tape cutting pattern pieces for
interfacing.
Recommended pattern pieces for interfacing:
Interfacing:
- Facing of front;
- Facing of back;
- Slit seam allowances.

Edge fusible tape:

- Areas of fold of seam allowances on the slits.

Fusible bias tape:

- Neckline and armscye seam allowances of front;
- Neckline and armscye seam allowances of back.

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STEP 5. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

You can find a very detailed video master class for this pattern which
explain a sewing process. Watch it before you start sewing or during
the process. It has three parts for your convenient: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.

Preparation before sewing .

1. Before cutting the details from the targeted fabric, we recommend
sewing a mock-up and doing a fitting.
2. For sewing mock-up, you can use any inexpensive fabric with similar
characteristics to the targeted fabric.
3. It is not necessary to cut facings and shoulder straps for fitting.
4. Baste details together. To avoid stretching upper edge, baste mock-up
fabric selvedge on it. Instead of shoulder straps you can use fabric selvedge
or any tape.

Fitting.
1. Put garment on.
2. Correct garment’s balance. Side seams must be vertical.
3. If necessary, correct volume on side seams.
4. Do it symmetrically from both sides in order not to narrow the garment
and avoid sagging.
5. Pay attention to correctness of bust dart volume. If necessary, correct
volume.
6. If necessary, correct shoulder straps length.
7. If necessary, correct depth of neckline.
8. If necessary, correct garment length and slits length.
9. Transfer all changes to paper pattern.

Cutting fabric and preparation for cutting.

1. Preshrink all fabric (steam press).
2. Fold fabric face to face, connecting edges.

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3. Put pattern details on fabric according to the scheme.

4. Pin together fabric layers.
5. Cut.

Preparation of parts before sewing.

1. Transfer all contour lines, control lines, and notches to paired parts.
2. Fuse parts according to given scheme.
3. Baste garment and do fitting with your primary fabric. Despite initial
fitting, second fitting is necessary, because you can see garment volume
nuances that were not visible on the mock-up.

Sewing.

1. Stitch bust darts.

2. Press bust darts toward upper edge. Steam press dart centre.

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3. Cover side edges on your serger or stitch on oblique edging before

stitching.
4. Place back and front parts face to face. Superpose front and back parts
along side edges, connecting notches.
5. Stitch side edges from armholes to slits.
6. Baste slits with a running stitch.
7. Press seam allowances and slits opened.

8. Stitch together side seams of facings. Press seam allowances opened.

Cover lower edge of facing on serger or stitch on oblique edging.
9. Fold shoulder straps (face inside) and stitch 0,5-0,7 cm from edge. It is
possible to cut seam allowance, but not necessary. It depends on your fab-
ric and the final look you want it to have. If your fabric is lightweight, and
you need a filled-in strap, it is not necessary to trim off seam allowance. If
the fabric is heavyweight, and you do not need a filled-in strap, cut seam
allowance to 0,3-0,5 cm.
10. Turn shoulder straps on its outside. You can use a special threader for
this. We used a simple needle for basting.

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11. Press shoulder straps.

12. Stitch shoulder straps to front part of garment.

13. Do one more fitting, regulate shoulder straps length. Stitch shoulder
straps to back parts of garment.

14. Place face of facing to face of garment along neckline, armscyes and
back. Align edges. Stitch facing without stretching edges. Control stitching
of parts in the area of back and front centre, as well as in the area of side
seams. Shoulder straps stay between garment and facing in the area of
armscye.

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15. Stitch facing to upper edge of garment. Stitch on fusible tape side.

16. Cut seam allowances to 0,5-0,7 cm. Clip seam allowance along the
edges of armscye, back and and front centre. This is necessary for better
look of right side.
17. First, press seam allowances, then press them toward facing.
18. Turn garment and facing to different sides. Direct seam allowances
to facing. Make four functional stitches on face of facing 0,1 cm from
connecting stitch, securing seam allowances. Each stitch does not reach
shoulder strap corner at 2-3 cm. Pay attention to symmetrical distance for
each strap.

19. Turn garment neckline to face, straighten garment on this area.

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20. Press neckline and armscye making sure you can see a tiny bit of right
side of garment from facing.

21. Secure facing in side seams to prevent it from turning inside out.

22. Put garment on to regulate its length. If you decide to change garment’s
length, it is now time to do it.

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23. Remove basting thread from slits.

25. Finish hem.
26. Press hem.
27. Finish corners of slits as shown in the tutorial.

28. Mark the line of finishing stitch, which will secure seam allowances of
hem and slits.

29. Stitch hem and slits.

30. Steam press the garment.
The sundress is ready.

You should not be lazy while tailoring. Iron all

parts you are working on. Tailoring will be easier
and garment will look better.

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