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Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology
Written for undergraduate students studying coastal
geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the
processes at work on our coastlines and the features
that we see in coastal systems across the world.
Accessible to students from a range of disciplines,
the quantitative approach helps to build a solid
understanding of wave and current processes that
shape coastlines globally. The resulting processes of
erosion, transport and deposition and the features
they create are clearly explained, with a strong illus-
tration and photo programme. From sandy beaches
to coral reefs, the major coastal features are related
to contemporary processes and to sea-level changes
over the past 25 000 years. Key equations that
describe or predict measurements from the instru-
ments used to map these processes are all presented
in this wide-ranging overview. Robin Davidson-
Arnott completes the teaching package with online
material that brings the subject to life, including
videos of coastal processes and virtual field trips.
R O B I N D A V I D S O N - A R N O T T completed his Ph.D. in
1975 from the Department of Geography at the
University of Toronto. He was appointed Assistant
Professor at the University of Guelph in 1976,
Associate Professor in 1980, and has served as
Professor from 1988 onwards. He has been a mem-
ber of the Task Force of the International Joint
Commission (Canada/USA) Great Lakes Water
Levels Reference Study Phase 1 (1987–89), and has
seconded as a Scientist to the Ontario Ministry of
Natural Resources Development of Ontario Shoreline
Management Policy and Technical Guideline (1992–95),
and to the International Joint Commission (Canada/
USA) Upper Great Lakes Water Level Regulation
Study (2007–11). He has worked as a consultant
for a number of studies for Ontario Conservation
Authorities and Parks, Canada, and been awarded
the R. J. Russell Award from the Coastal and Marine
Specialty Group of the Association of American
Geographers in 2000. His research interests are in
coastal geomorphology – on beach and nearshore
processes on sandy coasts, nearshore erosion of
cohesive coasts, coastal saltmarshes, aeolian sedi-
ment transport and coastal dunes – and he has
received continuous support in this from the
Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council
of Canada for over 30 years. He has authored
and co-authored many books and papers on the sub-
ject, including a contribution to Geomorphology and
Global Environmental Change (Cambridge University
Press, 2009).
An Introduction to Coastal Processes
and Geomorphology
Robin Davidson-Arnott
CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS
Cambridge, New York, Melbourne, Madrid, Cape Town, Singapore,
São Paulo, Delhi, Dubai, Tokyo

Cambridge University Press

The Edinburgh Building, Cambridge CB2 8RU, UK

Published in the United States of America by Cambridge University Press, New York

www.cambridge.org
Information on this title: www.cambridge.org/9780521874458

© R. Davidson-Arnott 2010

This publication is in copyright. Subject to statutory exception and to the

provision of relevant collective licensing agreements, no reproduction of any part
may take place without the written permission of Cambridge University Press.
First published in print format 2009

ISBN-13 978-0-511-69133-1 eBook (NetLibrary)

ISBN-13 978-0-521-87445-8 Hardback

ISBN-13 978-0-521-69671-5 Paperback

Cambridge University Press has no responsibility for the persistence or accuracy
of urls for external or third-party internet websites referred to in this publication,
and does not guarantee that any content on such websites is, or will remain,
accurate or appropriate.
 Contents

Preface page ix
Acknowledgements xi

Part I Introduction 1

1 Introduction 3

1.1 Humans and the coastal zone 3

1.2 Approaches to the study of coasts 5
1.3 Information sources 6
1.4 Approach and organisation 7
References 8

2 Coastal geomorphology 10

2.1 Definition and scope of coastal geomorphology 10

2.2 The coastal zone: definition and nomenclature 11
2.3 Factors influencing coastal morphology and processes 13
References 15

Part II Coastal Processes 17

3 Sea level fluctuations and changes 19

3.1 Synopsis 19
3.2 Mean sea level, the geoid, and changes in mean sea level 19
3.3 Changes in mean sea level 23
3.4 Astronomical tides 29
3.5 Short-term dynamic changes in sea level 38
3.6 Climate change and sea level rise 45
References 48

4 Wind-generated waves 52

4.1 Synopsis 52
4.2 Definition and characteristics of waves 52
4.3 Measurement and description of waves 56
4.4 Wave generation 65
4.5 Wave prediction 70
4.6 Wave climate 74
Further reading 76
References 76

5 Waves  wave theory and wave dynamics 78

5.1 Synopsis 78
5.2 Wave theories 78
vi CONTENTS

5.3 Wave shoaling and refraction 85

5.4 Wave breaking 92
5.5 Wave groups and low-frequency energy in the surf
and swash zones 108
Further reading 112
References 112

6 Surf zone circulation 116

6.1 Synopsis 116

6.2 Undertow 116
6.3 Rip cells 121
6.4 Longshore currents 129
6.5 Wind and tidal currents 135
Further reading 135
References 135

7 Coastal sediment transport 139

7.1 Synopsis 139

7.2 Sediment transport mechanisms, boundary layers
and bedforms 139
7.3 Onoffshore sand transport 148
7.4 Longshore sand transport 155
7.5 Littoral sediment budget and littoral drift cells 166
Further reading 176
References 176

Part III Coastal Systems 181

8 Beach and nearshore systems 183

8.1 Synopsis 183

8.2 Beach and nearshore sediments and morphology 183
8.3 Nearshore morphodynamics 202
8.4 Beach morphodynamics 215
References 222

9 Coastal sand dunes 228

9.1 Synopsis 228

9.2 Morphological components of coastal dunes
and dune fields 229
9.3 Plant communities of coastal dunes 231
9.4 Aeolian processes in coastal dunes 235
9.5 Sand deposition 256
9.6 Beach/dune interaction and foredune evolution 258
9.7 Management of coastal dunes 268
References 273
 CONTENTS vii

10 Barrier systems 280

10.1 Synopsis 280

10.2 Barrier types and morphology 280
10.3 Barrier dynamics: overwash and inlets 287
10.4 Barrier spit morphodynamics 307
10.5 Barrier islands 312
10.6 Management of barrier systems 317
References 319

11 Saltmarshes and mangroves 325

11.1 Synopsis 325

11.2 Saltmarsh and mangrove ecosystems 325
11.3 Salt marshes 328
11.4 Mangroves 354
11.5 Conservation and management of saltmarshes and
mangroves 361
Further reading 362
References 362

12 Coral reefs and atolls 369

12.1 Synopsis 369

12.2 Corals and reef formation 370
12.3 Geomorphology and sedimentology of coral reefs 375
12.4 Impacts of disturbance on coral reefs 389
Further reading 393
References 393

13 Cliffed and rocky coasts 396

13.1 Synopsis 396

13.2 Cliffed coast morphology 396
13.3 Cliffed coast erosion system 400
13.4 Cohesive bluff coasts 409
13.5 Rock coasts 424
13.6 Shore platforms 427
13.7 Management of coastal cliff shorelines 430
Further reading 434
References 434

Index 439