Cetiol-Ultimate PRES September2017

Cetiol® Ultimate
Renewable-based, fresh, dry and volatile

Contents
 Market insight
 The concept
 Product description
 Performance
 Skin sensory – pure oils & formulations
 Color stability and pigment wetting for Color cosmetics
 Synergy in clear sun care system
 New textures
 Summary
2 BASF Personal Care

Market insight
Overview
 Prestige brands account for 30% of new global product launches (1)
 60% of women worldwide say natural claims highly influence their

choice of beauty products(2 )
 Men are becoming more active consumers of facial care with a

demand for a refreshing skin feel(3)
 Skin texture improvement is one of key claims of recent launches
 There is a potential for new product development addressing new
formulation textures and lifestyle claims
Source: (1) GNPD Mintel, (2) Datamonitor, (3) Mintel - Oxygen Facial Skin Care – US & UK –May 2013

The 4 Elements of Cetiol® Ultimate
Fresh Dry
Renewable-based Volatile

Cetiol® Ultimate
Product description
 Innovative, ultra-light, non-polar and volatile
 100% renewable-based, Ecocert & Cosmos & Natrue approved
 Readily biodegradable
 Ultra-fast spreading: > 2,500 mm2/10 min
 INCI name: Undecane (and) Tridecane
 Skin sensory benefits include easy distribution, less oiliness, dryness and
smoothness
 Creates modern and elegant textures

Cetiol® Ultimate
The evolution of the skin sensation
easy
distribution
“Fresh”
fast
absorption
Volatile less oiliness
Hydrocarbon
“Natural-based” “Light”
smoothness
“Dry”

Contents
 Market insight
 The concept
 Performance
 New textures
 Summary

Skin sensory of pure oils
Cetiol® Ultimate vs. Cyclomethicone
Caucasian skin Asian skin
Spreadability more
less
Distribution easy
difficult
Absorption I (after 1min) fast
slow
Absorption II (after 3min) fast
slow
Residues/Filming less
more
more Stickiness less
more Oiliness less
more Waxy feel less
less Powdery feel more
less Velvety feel more

less Silkiness more
less Softness more
less Smoothness more
less Light feel more
less Cared-for feel more
little Acceptance much
n = 11
not significant
Each line shows a pairwise comparison in a variable (median & weighted dev.). Filled symbol: Wilcoxon test. Significance level: see legend to the right.
significance ≥ 90%
Empty symbol: lower 90%-confidence bound (l.c.b.) for zero values. Square (□): l.c.b. > 0,66667; Circle (○): l.c.b. ≤ 0,66667.
Cetiol® Ultimate is very similar to Cyclomethicone
Skin sensory of pure oils
Cetiol® Ultimate - Monadic assessment
11 Panelists tested different emollients for 2 parameters (distribution, absorption) and assessed on a scale of
1(very bad) to 7 (very good). The diagrams show mean values and standard deviations.
Distribution Absorption
7.0
7.0
6.0 6.0
5.0 5.0
4.0 4.0
3.0 3.0
2.0
2.0
1.0
Cegesoft® Myritol® 312 Eutanol® G Cetiol® CC Cetiol® 1.0
PS 6 Ultimate Cegesoft® Myritol® 312 Eutanol® G Cetiol® CC Cetiol®
PS 6 Ultimate
Cetiol® Ultimate tends to deliver highest perception on distribution and absorption of the
tested emollients

Skin sensory of lipstick
Two week use test protocol
Repeated application & subjective evaluation
 Twenty female subjects (age 27-59; average age: 42.2)
 Lipstick use profile: 20% always; 70% frequently, 10% infrequently
 The lipstick was applied twice daily over a 2 week time period
 Subjects were instructed not to use any additional topical products two day prior to and during the test
period
Evaluation of attributes
 Consumer acceptance was evaluated via questionnaire using a Likert scale (expression of agreement
(positive answer) or disagreement (negative answer) to 8 fixed statements)
 Compatibility was assessed at the end of the test period by interview and dermatological examination

Tested formulation
Ingredients INCI (EU) Weight % Function
A Cirebelle 108 (Cirebelle) Synthetic Wax 10.00 Consistency agent
Multiwax W-445 (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00 Consistency agent
Performalene 655 Polyethylene 3.00 Consistency agent
Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 15.00 Emollient
Cosmedia® Gel CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate 8.00 Rheology modifier
Cegesoft® VP Olus oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Candelilla cera 5.00 Consistency agent
Cegesoft® PFO Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil 12.45 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil 12.00 Emollient
B Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol 14.75 Emollient
SunCROMA D&C Red 7 Ca Lake C19-003 CI 15850 6.00 Colorant

(Sun Chemical)
NAI-C475001-10 (Miyoshi Kasei) Titanium Dioxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 2.00 Colorant
C Covi-ox® T 70 C Tocopherol 1.30 Antioxidant
Perfume Parfum 0.50 Fragrance
Ultra Filling Spheres™ C00487 Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) 1.50 Active ingredient
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Powder
D Cloisonné® Vivid Red 450DHCB Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica 5.50 Effect pigment
Specifications
Dropping point : 78°C
Breaking point: 135 +/- 5 g
11 BASF Personal Care This formulation concerns IP rights of L'Oréal. BASF has a License Agreement with L'Oréal. Please contact us for details.
Results
Perception of lipstick properties
100
100 95 95 95
90
percentage of positive answers (n=20)
90 85 85
80
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
like color like consistency like richness like texture perceive a provides good covering can be evenly
nourishing effect sufficient properties applied
moisture to lips
8 fixed statements about lipstick properties were positively accepted by the subjects

Skin sensory evaluation of foundation
Protocol
Monadic, blind and intra-individual study
 The attributes of two foundations were assessed on a scale of 0 to 15 by 11 trained assessors at an
independent test institute; one product was tested at each session
 The statistical analysis determined the significance of the measurement variations
 Evaluation 1: Application of 64 µL of the product to the fingertip and rubbed
 Tactile assessment: Fluidity and consistency
 Evaluation 2: Application of another 64 µL of the product to area 1 of the forearm and rubbed in a circle
15 times
 Tactile assessment: Ease of spreading and powdery touch
After 5 minutes:
 Tactile assessment: Stickiness, oiliness, velvety skin-feel, powdery sensation
 Visual assessment: Covering effect (opacity), uniformity, velvety appearance, skin shine,
brightness of the color (radiance)
 Evaluation 3: Application of 64 µL of the product to area 2 by circular rubbing; after 5 minutes
 Transferability: Transferability from skin to tissue by dabbing/blotting once
Tested formulations
CC-FR-008-E13 CC-FR-008-E15
Ingredients INCI (EU) Weight % Weight %
A Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 10.00
DC 245 (Dow Corning) Cyclomethicone 10.00
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS (Dow Corning) Dimethicone 25.00 25.00
Cosmedia® Gel CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate 10.00 10.00
Ethanol 96% Alcohol 3.00 3.00
B Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 29.90 29.90
NAI-C475001-10 (Miyoshi Kasei) Titanium Dioxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 6.50 6.50
NAI-C339001-10 (Miyoshi Kasei) Iron Oxides (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 1.05 1.05
Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel fine particles (Dow Silica Silylate 0.50 0.50
Corning)
C Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica 3.00 3.00
(Dow Corning)
Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 5.00 5.00
Chione™ HD Crisp Gold S230V Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide 3.00 3.00
D Ultra Filling Spheres™ Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) 2.00 2.00
Covi-ox® T 50 C Tocopherol 0.10 0.10
Perfume Parfum 0.50 0.50
Specifications
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVT; spindle 2; 10 rpm; 20°C) 700 mPas
Tactile assessment – Initial skin sensation
Fluidity
CC-FR-008-E15
DC 245
CC-FR-008-E13
Cetiol® Ultimate
Powdery touch Consistency
Easiness of spreading
The result shows that the initial skin sensation of the two foundations was very similar

Tactile assessment after 5 min
Stickiness
CC-FR-008-E15
DC 245
CC-FR-008-E13
Cetiol® Ultimate
Transferability Oiliness
Powdery sensation Velvety skin

p < 0.05 sensation
Cetiol® Ultimate foundation was significantly more powdery

Visual assessment after 5 min
CC-FR-008-E15 Covering effect
DC 245 (opacity; p < 0.05)
CC-FR-008-E13
Cetiol® Ultimate
Brightness of Uniformity
the color
Shining effect Velvety appearance

Cetiol® Ultimate foundation gave significantly better coverage

Contents
 Market insight
 The concept
 Performance
 New textures
 Summary

Color stability of foundation
Protocol
Study protocol
 The two products were tested on two separate panels of volunteers (randomized, single blind)
 24 female subjects were recruited per group (average age: 35 + 3 years)
 Subjects were used to applying foundation
 The foundation to the whole face as a single application using a sponge
 Subjects were instructed not to use any additional topical products two day prior to and during the test
period
 Timepoints: before (T0 before), immediately after (T0 after) and 8 hours after (T8) application
 Measurement of skin color via MINOLTA CM700-d Spectrocolorimeter measurements
 Grading of photographs

Principle of the Spectrocolorimeter
measurements
Skin color is evaluated using a CM700-d L*: for clarity (from dark to light)
Spectrocolorimeter MINOLTA and the CIE L*a*b* color a*: for the green-to-red spectrum
system b*: for the blue-to-yellow spectrum
∗
E= (a∗2 + b∗2 + L∗2)
L=100
+b
-a
+a
-b
L=0
http://wiki.nuaj.net/index.php?title=File:Lab_Colorsphere.jpg
Tested formulations
CC-FR-008-E13 CC-FR-008-E15
Ingredients INCI Weight % Weight %

A Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 10.00
DC 245 (Dow Corning) Cyclomethicone 10.00
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS (Dow Corning) Dimethicone 25.00 25.00
Cosmedia® Gel CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate 10.00 10.00
Ethanol 96% Alcohol 3.00 3.00
B Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 29.90 29.90
NAI-C475001-10 (Miyoshi Kasei) Titanium Dioxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 6.50 6.50
Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel fine particles (Dow Silica Silylate 0.50 0.50
Corning)
C Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica 3.00 3.00
(Dow Corning)
Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 5.00 5.00
Chione™ HD Crisp Gold S230V Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide 3.00 3.00
D Ultra Filling Spheres™ Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) 2.00 2.00
Covi-ox® T 50 C Tocopherol 0.10 0.10
Perfume Parfum 0.50 0.50
Specifications
Results
Cetiol® Ultimate Foundation DC 245 Foundation Cetiol® Ultimate Foundation DC 245 Foundation
 Parameter a*: No significant difference  Parameter b*: Cetiol® Ultimate foundation

between the two foundations was observed exhibited significantly better color stability
after 8 hours
 Parameter L*: No significant difference between the two foundations was observed
 Parameter ΔE*: DC 245 foundation exhibited a significant decrease at t8 in comparison to the t0 after

Pigments wetting ability of pure oils
10g of each pigments were taken. The emollient was added dropwise until a paste was formed (no excess
emollient). The following calculation corresponds to the maximum percentage of pigment that could be
added to each emollient:
% of pigment = mpigment/( mpigment + memollient) x100
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
30.00% CETIOL ULTIMATE

CYCLOMETHICONE
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%
Titanium Dioxide Brown Iron Oxide DC Red 7 Ca Lake
Cetiol® Ultimate has a similar wetting ability as cyclomethicone for dispersing pigments

Contents
 Market insight
 The concept
 Performance
 New textures
 Summary

Clear sun care system
UV filters combination: 3.5% Uvinul® T150, 3.5% Tinosorb® S, 7.5% Uvinul® A Plus
No UV filters crystals were observed Crystals of Tinosorb® S were observed

during stability tests (3 months) @ 4°C after 1 month of storage @ 4°C
10% Cetiol® Ultimate 10% Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane

UV-DE-13-156-1-1* UV-DE-13-156-1-2*”
Cetiol® Ultimate has a positive effect on performance of UV protection and

stability of sun care formulations compared to Cyclomethicone
* & **: Reference formulations are on the next slide

Clear high performing sun care SPF 30
Tested formulations
UV-DE-13-156-1-1 UV-DE-13-156-1-2
Ingredients INCI Weight % Weight %

A Cetiol® AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 20.00 20.00
Cetiol® B Dibutyl Adipate 17.00 17.00
Finsolv EB (Innospec) Ethylhexyl Benzoate 6.00 6.00
Cosmedia® DC Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/ Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer 2.00 2.00
Uvinul® A Plus Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 7.50 7.50
Tinosorb® S Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 3.50 3.50
Uvinul® T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 3.50 3.50
B Ethanol absolut pH. Eur. Alcohol 30.50 30.50
Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 10.00
Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00

Cyclohexasiloxane
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-III+; spindle LV1; 20 rpm; 25°C) 4 – 8 mPas
Contents
 Market insight
 The concept
 Performance
 Skin sensory
 New textures
 Summary

Power of new textures  Water bank
Gel cream SC-DE-13-096-003
 Magical look
Eye cream CN-CL-13090403
 Ultimate temptation
Body oil SC-DE-13-280-001
 Sweet dream
W/O lotion SC-DE-13-116-4
 Contagious joy
Body balm SC-FR-13-003-A009
 Dry touch
Sun cream SPF 50 UV-DE-13-124-2-5
 Clear protector
High performing sun oil SPF 30 UV-DE-13-156-1-1
 Absolutely light
Light foundation CC-FR-13-008-E13
 Invisible veil
Poured foundation CC-FR-13-08-C05
 Cherry blossom
Lipstick CC-FR-13-003-B11
 Urban blue
Eyeshadow CC-FR-13-003-B11
Water bank
Gel cream SC-DE-13-096-003, cold-process
Ingredients INCI Weight % Function  Easy pick-up

A Eumulgin® SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.05 Emulsifier O/W and easy
distribution
Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.00 Rheology modifier
Cetiol® LC Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.00 Emollient  Glossy texture
Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 5.00 Emollient breaks easily
and gives a
B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
water splash
Water, demin. Aqua 85.95
skin feel
C Preservative qs Preservative during
Perfume Parfum qs Fragrance application
 Fast
Specifications absorption
pH value (23°C) 6.5 and non tacky,
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 100,000 mPas matt look
Magical look
Eye cream CN-CL-13090403
Ingredients INCI (EU) Weight % Function  Easy pick-up
and easy
A Emulgade® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 1.50 Emulsion base O/W
distribution
Cutina® PES Pentaerythrityl Distearate 2.00 Consistency agent
Cetiol® SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 2.00 Emollient  A fluffy texture
delivers a soft
skin feel
Cetiol® C 5C Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 4.00 Emollient
during
DC 200 Fluid, 50cst (Dow Dimethicone 1.00 Emollient
Corning) application
Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.50 Rheology modifier
 Fast
B 1,3 Butylene glycol Butylene Glycol 6.00 Humectant absorption
Edeta® BD EDTA-2Na 0.02 Complexing agent and non tacky
Lactic Acid (10%) Lactic Acid 0.30 pH adjustment
Eumulgin® SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.20 Emulsifier O/W
Water, demin. Aqua 78.48
C Preservative qs Preservative
Perfume Parfum qs Fragrance
Specifications
pH value (23°C) 6.2
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C), mPas 125,000 mPas
Ultimate temptation
Body oil SC-DE-13-280-001, cold process
Ingredients INCI (EU) Weight % Function  Ultra-light

A Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil 10.00 Emollient body oil
Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol 25.00 Emollient
spreads easily
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 20.00 Emollient  Thin texture
Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 20.00 Emollient absorbs
Almond oil (Sigma-Aldrich) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet 10.00 Emollient quickly during
Almond) Oil application
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 6.90 Emollient
 Comfortable
Copherol® F 1300 C Tocopherol 0.50 Antioxidant
after feel
Lipofructyl™ Argan Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2.50 Active ingredient
Specifications
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle 3; 10 rpm; 23°C) 200 mPas
Sweet dream
W/O lotion SC-DE-13-116-4, cold-process
Ingredients INCI (EU) Weight % Function  Thin milky

A Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.00 Emulsifier W/O lotion glides
easily onto
Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 1.50 Emulsifier W/O
the skin
Zincum N 29 cos. Zinc Stearate 1.00 Stabilizer
(Baerlocher)  Glossy
Cetiol® LC Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 15.00 Emollient nutritious
Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 5.00 Emollient texture
Lipofructyl™ Argan Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 1.00 Active ingredient transforms to
Covi-ox® T 90 EU C Tocopherol 0.50 Active ingredient W/O skin feel
during
B Glycerin Glycerin 7.00 Humectant
application
Magnesium Sulfate Magnesium Sulfate 1.00 Stabilizer
Heptahydrate  Fast
Water, demin. Aqua 58.00 absorption
and non tacky,
C Ethanol Alcohol 7.00 Cooling agent
leaving cared-
D Preservative q.s. Preservative
for skin feel
Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Specifications
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle 5; 10 rpm; 23°C) 14 000 mPas
Contagious joy
Body balm SC-FR-13-003-A009
Ingredients INCI (EU) Weight % Function  Light
A Deionized water Aqua 77.00  Fast
Glycerine (AMI Chimie) Glycerin 5.00 Humectant absorption
Edeta® BX Powder Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Chelating Agent
 Cushiony feel
B Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.60 Thickener
C Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth- 3.00 Emulsifier O/W  Moisturized,
12 (and) Cetearyl alcohol (and) Cetyl palmitate cared-for
Cutina® PES Pentaerythrityl Distearate 1.00 Consistency agent after-feel
Cetiol® SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 2.00 Emollient
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 3.00 Emollient
KF-96A-100CS (ShinEtsu) Dimethicone 1.00 Silicone
D Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 4.00 Emollient
E Perfume Parfum 0.30 Perfume
Lipofructyl™ Argan Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2.50 Active Ingredient
F Chione® M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 0.40 Skin sensory modifier
G Preservative 0.10 Preservative
Specifications
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, Helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 100 000 mPas
pH-value 6.4
Dry touch
Sun cream gel SPF 50 UV-DE-13-124-2-5
Ingredients INCI weight % Function
A Eumulgin® B 2 Ceteareth-20 2.00 Emulsifier O/W
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 11.00 Emollient
Cetiol® B Dibutyl Adipate 8.00 Emollient
Cetiol® C5 Coco-Caprylate 8.00 Emollient
Tinosorb® S Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2.50 Broad spectrum UV filter
Uvinul® T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.00 UV-B filter
B Water, demin. Aqua 32.10
Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
Keltrol CG-RD (CP Kelco) Xanthan Gum 0.30 Stabilizer
Edeta® BD Disodium EDTA 0.20 Complexing agent
C Tinovis® ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 0.90 Rheology modifier
D Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 5.00 Emollient
E Tinosorb® M Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano) (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) 12.00 Broad spectrum UV filter
Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum
Tinosorb® A2B Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (nano) (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Disodium 8.00 UV-B / A II filter
Phosphate (and) Xanthan Gum
F Lipofructyl™ Argan LS 9779 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2.50 Active ingredient
Melhydran™ LS 4420 Honey Extract 2.50 Active ingredient
Preservative qs Preservative
Perfume Parfum qs Fragrance
Sodium Hydroxide (30% solution) Sodium Hydroxide qs pH Adjustment
Specifications
pH value (25°C) 6.00 - 6.50
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-III Ultra; spindle RV05; 10 rpm; 25°C) 27 000 – 28 000 mPas
Clear protector
High performing sun oil SPF 30 UV-DE-13-156-1-1
Ingredients INCI Weight % Function

A Cetiol® AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 20.00 Emollient
Cetiol® B Dibutyl Adipate 17.00 Emollient
Finsolv EB (Innospec) Ethylhexyl Benzoate 6.00 Emollient
Cosmedia® DC Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/ Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer 2.00 Film forming agent
Uvinul® A Plus Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 7.50 UV-A filter
Tinosorb® S Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 3.50 Broad spectrum UV filter
Uvinul® T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 3.50 UV-B filter
B Ethanol absolut pH. Eur. Alcohol 30.50 Solvent
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-III+; spindle LV1; 20 rpm; 25°C) 4 – 8 mPas
SPF in silico (BASF Sunscreen simulator- in silico determination of the sun protection factor) 31
UVA-PF in vitro (BASF internal method Nr. 28 – determination of the UVA- PF in vitro) 14.2
Absolutely light
Light foundation CC-FR-13-008-E13 Shake before use!

A Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 10.00 Emollient
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS (Dow Corning) Dimethicone 25.00 Emollient
Ethanol 96% Alcohol 3.00 Solvent
B Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 29.90 Emollient
NAI-C475001-10 (Miyoshi Kasei) Titanium Dioxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 6.50 Colorant
NAI-C339001-10 (Miyoshi Kasei) Iron Oxides (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 1.05 Colorant
Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel fine particles (Dow Silica Silylate 0.50 Rheology modifier
Corning)
C Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica 3.00 Skin sensory modifier
(Dow Corning)
Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 5.00 Skin sensory modifier
Chione™ HD Crisp Gold S230V Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide 3.00 Effect pigment
D Ultra Filling Spheres™ Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) 2.00 Active ingredient
Covi-ox® T 50 C Tocopherol 0.10 Antioxidant
Specifications
pH value (20°C) NR
Invisible veil
Poured foundation CC-FR-13-08-C05
A Cutina® HR Powder Hydrogenated Castor Oil 5.00 Consistency agent
Multiwax ML-445 H (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00 Consistency agent
Cegesoft® SB Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 4.00 Emollient
Cosmedia® Gel CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene 12.00 Rheology modifier
Carbonate
KSG-16 (Shin Etsu Chemical) Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5.00 Skin sensory modifier
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.00 Emollient
B Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 15.00 Emollient
LTS-2 TiO2 R250 (Daito Kasei Kogyo) Titanium Dioxide (and) Hydrogenated Lecithine (and) Aluminum 7.50 Colorant
Hydroxide
LTS-2 Yellow No. 602P(Daito Kasei Kogyo) Iron Oxides (and) Hydrogenated Lecithine (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 0.80 Colorant
LTS-2 Red No. 211P (Daito Kasei Kogyo) Iron Oxides (and) Hydrogenated Lecithine (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 0.30 Colorant
LTS-2 Black No. 710P(Daito Kasei Kogyo) Iron Oxides (and) Hydrogenated Lecithine (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 0.10 Colorant
C Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 10.00 Skin sensory modifier
Talc Talc 8.00 Skin sensory modifier
Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS (Arkema) Nylon-12 5.00 Skin sensory modifier
Chione™ HD Crisp Gold S230V Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and)Titanium Dioxide 2.00 Effect pigment
D Perfume Parfum 0.20 Fragrance
Lipofructyl™ Argan Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2.00 Active ingredient
Covi-ox® T 50 C Tocopherol 0.10 Antioxidant
Cherry blossom
Lipstick CC-FR-13-003-B11

A Cirebelle 108 (Cirebelle) Synthetic Wax 10.00 Consistency agent
Multiwax W-445(Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00 Consistency agent
Performalene 655 Polyethylene 3.00 Consistency agent
Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and)Tridecane 15.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® VP Olus oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Candelilla cera 5.00 Consistency agent
Cegesoft® PFO Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil 12.45 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil 12.00 Emollient
B Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol 14.75 Emollient
SunCROMA D&C Red 7 Ca Lake CI 15850 6.00 Colorant

C19-003(Sun Chemical)
NAI-C475001-10(Miyoshi Kasei) Titanium Dioxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide 2.00 Colorant
C Covi-ox® T 70 C Tocopherol 1.30 Antioxidant
Ultra Filling Spheres™ C00487 Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate, 1.50 Active ingredient
D Cloisonné® Vivid Red 450DHCB Mica, Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica 5.50 Effect pigment
Urban blue
Eyeshadow CC-FR-13-003-B11
Ingredients INCI Weight % Function
A Cutina® HR Powder Hydrogenated Castor Oil 5.00 Consistency agent
Multiwax W-445(Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00 Consistency agent
KSG-16 (Shin Etsu Chemical) Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 8.00 Skin feel modifier
Cegesoft® VP Olus oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Candelilla cera [EU], Vegetable 6.00 Consistency agent
Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
B SunCROMA FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake C39-4433 CI 42090 0.40 Colorant

(Sun Chemical)
SunPURO Titanium Dioxide C47-5001 CI 77891 1.00 Colorant

(Sun Chemical)
SunCROMA D&C Yellow 10 Al Lake C71-5171 CI 47005 0.10 Colorant

(Sun Chemical)
Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 7.00 Emollient
Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 7.00 Emollient
C Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 5.00 Skin feel modifier
Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS (Arkema) Nylon-12 4.00 Skin feel modifier
Talc Talc 8.00 Skin feel modifier
D Reflecks™ Truly Turquoise G736L Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Ferric Ferrocyanide 5.00 Effect pigment
Flamenco® Summit Turquoise T30D Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica 5.00 Effect pigment
Duocrome® BG 826C Mica, Titanium Dioxide (and) Ferric Ferrocyanide 8.00 Effect pigment
E Covi-ox® T 70 C Tocopherol 1.30 Antioxidant
F Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and)Tridecane 15.00 Emollient
Skin tolerance under dermatological control
Formulations
5% Cetiol Ultimate in „Water bank“ (SC-DE-13-096-003), after 4 weeks of regular use (twice daily)
 Test area: inner sides of forearms
 No visible signs of skin irritation
 No statistically signficant changes in skin barrier function compared to the untreated area (transepidermal water loss; TEWL)
10% Cetiol Ultimate in „Absolutely light“ (CC-FR-008-E13), after 4 weeks of regular use (twice daily)
 Test area: inner sides of forearms
 No visible signs of skin irritation
 No statistically signficant changes in skin barrier function compared to the untreated area (transepidermal water loss; TEWL)
15% Cetiol Ultimate in „Cherry blossom“ (CC-FR-13-003-B-11), after two weeks of regular use (twice daily)
 Test area: lips
 No reports of discomfort
 No incompatibility observed by any volunteer
 Test product showed a good skin compatibility
15% Cetiol Ultimate in „Urban blue“ (CC-FR-13-018-A08), after two weeks of regular use (minimum once daily)
 Test area: eyelids / under the eyebrows
 No reports of discomfort
 No incompatibility observed by any volunteer
 Test product is classified as „harmless“ as regards the possibility of eye or eyelid irritation and is suitable for use by contact lense
wearers
Patch test should be conducted under semi-occlusive conditions as irritation under occlusion occurs

Cetiol® Ultimate
INCI: Undecane (and) Tridecane
 The ultimate sensory Appearance: Clear colorless liquid
Ultra-fast spreading: > 2,500 mm2/10 min
benefits: easy
Rec. dosage: 2-15%
distribution, less oiliness, Flash point: 81 ºC
dryness and smoothness
Performance
 The ultimate formulation
benefits:
 Dry smooth textures for Sensory  Very similar skin feel to
face creams / body Cyclomethicone
creams and oils / sun  No crystallization of UV
creams/ foundations filters in clear sun care
 Create ultra thin W/O system
emulsions with a very  Good pigment wetting
good stability  Improved coverage and
 Improved skin feel with powdery sensation in liquid
natural cosmetics foundation
 Easy preparation of color  Improved color shade
cosmetics consistency of liquid
foundation
 Perceivable effects in
Bridging the gap to the ultimate sensory lipstick
experience - naturally!
The 4 Elements of Cetiol® Ultimate
Fresh Dry
Renewable-based Volatile
DISCLAIMER
While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good faith and
believed to be accurate, it is provided gratis and for your guidance only. Because many factors may affect
processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a product for
your particular purpose prior to use. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE
MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, OR THAT DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE
USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE
SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART
OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE.
For more information visit us at www.personal-care.basf.com or www.carecreations.basf.com

Cetiol-Ultimate PRES September2017

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Cetiol-Ultimate PRES September2017

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Cetiol® Ultimate

Renewable-based, fresh, dry and volatile

2 BASF Personal Care

 60% of women worldwide say natural claims highly influence their

 Men are becoming more active consumers of facial care with a

3 BASF Personal Care

4 BASF Personal Care

5 BASF Personal Care

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more Oiliness less

more Waxy feel less

less Powdery feel more

less Velvety feel more

less Smoothness more

less Light feel more

less Cared-for feel more

little Acceptance much

9 BASF Personal Care

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Multiwax W-445 (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00 Consistency agent

Performalene 655 Polyethylene 3.00 Consistency agent

Cetiol® Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane 15.00 Emollient

Cegesoft® PFO Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil 12.45 Emollient

Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil 12.00 Emollient

B Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol 14.75 Emollient

SunCROMA D&C Red 7 Ca Lake C19-003 CI 15850 6.00 Colorant

C Covi-ox® T 70 C Tocopherol 1.30 Antioxidant

Perfume Parfum 0.50 Fragrance

12 BASF Personal Care

DC 245 (Dow Corning) Cyclomethicone 10.00

Ethanol 96% Alcohol 3.00 3.00

B Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 29.90 29.90

Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 5.00 5.00

Covi-ox® T 50 C Tocopherol 0.10 0.10

Perfume Parfum 0.50 0.50

Powdery touch Consistency

15 BASF Personal Care

Powdery sensation Velvety skin

Cetiol® Ultimate foundation was significantly more powdery

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Shining effect Velvety appearance

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Ingredients INCI Weight % Weight %

DC 245 (Dow Corning) Cyclomethicone 10.00

Ethanol 96% Alcohol 3.00 3.00

B Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 29.90 29.90

Chione™ M SVA Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine 5.00 5.00

Covi-ox® T 50 C Tocopherol 0.10 0.10

Perfume Parfum 0.50 0.50

 Parameter a*: No significant difference  Parameter b*: Cetiol® Ultimate foundation

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30.00% CETIOL ULTIMATE

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No UV filters crystals were observed Crystals of Tinosorb® S were observed

10% Cetiol® Ultimate 10% Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane

Cetiol® Ultimate has a positive effect on performance of UV protection and

* & **: Reference formulations are on the next slide

Ingredients INCI Weight % Weight %

Cetiol® B Dibutyl Adipate 17.00 17.00

 Parameter a: No significant difference  Parameter b: Cetiol® Ultimate foundation