J. J.

Pizzuto's

TENTH EDITION

Jcey/ogacricSri)a/cfes

Allen C. Cohen
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

lngrid Johnson
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to ``Mounting the
Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets."

© 2012 Fairchild Books, a division of Cond€ Nast Publications, Inc.

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

I Denim (blue) Cotton Cotton

2 Broken twill (black & grey) Wool (woolen) Wool
3 Tropical worsted (glen plaid) Wool (worsted) Wool
4 Sueded twill (black) Cashmere Cashmere/polyester (blend)
5 3D~design Mohair Mohair/wool (blend)
6 Heather effect (purple) Reprocessed wool Wool and other fibers
7 Taffeta (plaid) Cultivated silk Silk
8 Pongee (ivory) Duoppioni silk Silk

9 Pin check Tussah silk Silk

10 Linen (off+white) Flax Flax

11 Micro fiber fabric (army green) Polyester (microfilament) Polyester

12 Hampton twill (black) Lyocell Lyocell

13 Nainsook (aqua) Ramie Ramie

14 Lining (drab olive) Rayon Bemberg® rayon
15 Bridal satin (bright blue) Acetate Acetate
Also see:
25 Lame Metallic
26 Tissue taffeta Nylon
-
34 Pointed twill Spandex
-
49 Jersey knit Acrylic
-
50
64
Baby jersey
High pile knit
Organic cotton
Modacrylic -
 SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
16 Chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn CottonCottonPolyester/rayon (blend)Polyester
17 Broadcloth (taupe grey) Combed yarn
18 Linen look (boulder grey) Novelty yarn (thick and thin)
19 Spider knit (white) Textured filament
20 Novelty suiting Novelty yams (boucle, tufts,plied)

21 Bathing suit fabric (hot pink) 4 way stretch Nylon and spandexPolyesterPolyesterNylonMetallicandnylon (mixture)Nylon
22 Chiffon (pale pink) High twist filament yarn
23 Georgette (salmon) Crepe twist yarn
24 Crystal organza (white) Mono filament yarnMetallicyarn
25 Lame (gold)
2627 Tissue taffeta (pale eggplant) Filament yarn
Shaggy knit (ice blue) Textured yarn and eyelash yarn Polyester and n yAlsose :Ion

3135656678111113 Faille -
SateenTricotjerseyTricotjerseyLightweight poplinLuggagefabricBuckram
Fabric mixture
-
Corespun
-
15d.

-
40d.
Blended yarn --
High denier yarn
Filling: mono filament
 illmnEmu EHfflENlmH

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

28 Gauze (greige) Yarn distortion Cotton

29 Lawn (white) Plain weave (fine) Cotton
30 Batiste (print) Plain weave (printed) Cotton
31 Faille (ice green) Plain weave (ribbed) Warp: acetateFilling:cotton

32 Cord (mineral green) Cord effect Cotton

33 Chino (beige) Twill weave Warp: cottonFilling:cotton and spandex(corespun)

34 Pointed twill (orange crush) Broken twill weave Warp: cottonFilling:cotton and spandex(corespun)

35 Sateen (pebble) Satin weave Warp: cottonFilling:cotton and spandex(corespun)

36 Antique satin (dusty green) Satin weave (novelty yarn) Warp: acetateFilling:rayon

37 Striped lining Multiple effect Acetate

38 Pique (apple green) Pique weave Cotton
39 Terrycloth (beige) Warp pile weave (uncut) Cotton
40 Corduroy (navy) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
41 Velveteen (lagoon) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
42 Velvet (patterned) Warp pile weave (cut) Rayon
43 Upholstery velvet (brown) Warp pile weave (cut) Back: cottonPile:wool/rayon (blend)

44 Sculpted upholstery velvet(camel) Warp pile weave (cut)

45 Evening wear dobby (black) Dobby weave Acetate

46 Tie fabric Dobby weave (long floats) Polyester

47 Natte damask (white) Jacquard weave Cotton

48 Upholstery brocade (sage) Jacquard weave Warp: polyesterFilling:cotton/rayon (blend)

Also see:
5 3D~design Long floats -
9 Pin check Basket weave
110 Designer j acquard Jacquard
 n mu I ill] rm EH tl EN I ni H

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

49 Jersey knit (black) Jersey (coarse) Acrylic

50 Baby jersey (greige) Jersey (fine) Cotton (organic, combedyams)

51 Rib knit (steel grey) Rib knit (1xl) Cotton

52 Rib knit (black) Rib knit (2x2) Cotton and cotton and span~dex(corespun)

53 Interlock knit (striped) Ribbed Cotton and polyester (mixture)

54 Interlock knit (cobalt) Interlock Polyester
55 French terry (blue) Lay in yarn Ground: cottonLayin:polyester/cotton (blend)

56 Knit window pane check Knit jacquard Acrylic

57 Slinky (maroon) Supple drape Acetate, nylon, and spandex
58 Knit terry (orange) Loop-knit (uncut) Pile: cottonGround:cotton and polyester

59 Knit velour (baby blue) Loop-knit (cut) Pile: cottonGround:cotton and polyester

60 Argyle Argyle pattern White: cottonBlue:polyester

61 Thermal knit type (white) Patterning with tuck stitches Polyester and cotton (mixture)
62 Puckered jersey (celery) Crinkle effect
63 Fancy jersey Lay in yams for surface effect -
Polyester/spandex (corespun)

64 High pile knit (fake fur) High pile knit Modacrylic

65 Tricot jersey (white) Tricot (15d.) Nylon
66 Tricot jersey (black) Tricot (40d.) Nylon
67 Satin tricot (metallic print) Satin tricot Polyester
68 Sports jersey (silver) Tricot mesh Nylon
69 Tulle (red) Raschel (sheer) Nylon
Also see:

74 Raschel lace Raschel lace

84 Ponte di roma Interlock
95 Pann€ velour Crushed, flattened surface
107 Matelasse knit Quilted effect
 IINIEN nflfflEH rtyE ITunITIIdi

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

70 Inter facing Web nonwoven Polyester and rayon

71 Fusible nonwoven inter facing Fusible web nonwoven Polyester and rayon (polyesterdots)

72 Felt (navy) Felt Wool and polyester

73 Eyelet fabric (white) Embroidered fabric Polyester/cotton (blend)

74 Raschel lace (purple) Raschel lace Nylon
75 Quilted material Quilted material Shell: acetateFiller:polyesterScrim:polyester

rmp]Hrty HHtimimH

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

76 Greige goods Greige goods Cotton

77 Iridescent (magenta) Piece dyed (cross) Blue: nylonPink:polyester

78 Lightweight poplin (peacock) Piece dyed (union) Polyester/cotton (blend)

79 Madras (plaid) Yarn dyed Cotton

80 Gingham (black and white) Yarn dyed Polyester/cotton (blend)
Also see:
-
13

112
Nainsook
Market umbrella fabric
Piece dyed
Solution dyed -
 mENimuIT" EHtlmimH

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

81 Printed check (black andwhite) Printed woven design Polyester/cotton (blend)

82 Flannelette (print) Printed (napped finish) Cotton

83 Calico Blotch print Polyester/cotton (blend)
84 Ponte di roma (yellow) Overprint (pigment) Polyester
85 French pique (stripe) Heat transfer print Polyester
86 ITY (blue print) ITY fabric Polyester and spandex(corespun)

87 Burn-out batiste(white) Burn-out design (sheer effect) Cotton with polyester core

88 Burn-out velvet (black) Burn~out design (pile effect) Rayon and polyester (mixture)
Also see:
99 Liquid lame Allover metallic effect -
IIHELilINE EimuiHENHH

SwatchNumber
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content

89 Staybright" fabric* (orange) Bleach resistant color Cotton/polyester (blend)

90 Drill (olive) Suede finish Cotton
91 Brushed knit (lemon) Brushed (napped) finish Polyester
92 Paper taffeta (classic blue) Water repellent finish Nylon
93 Chintz (pink) Glazed calender finish Cotton
94 Moir€ taffeta (black) Moire finish Acetate
95 Pann€ Velour (silver grey) Crushed (flattened) surface Polyester and spandex(corespun)

96 Stretch plisse (blue and white) Pucker effect Warp: cottonFilling:cotton and spandex(corespun)

97 Seersucker (multicolor) Seersucker Cotton

98 Accordion pleat Pleating Polyester
Also see:
17 Broadcloth Mercerized and compressiveshrinkagefinish

31 Faille Moire finish

-
76
79
Greige goods
Madras
Greige goods
Fabric not mercerized -
105 Yoryu Heat set crinkle effect
113 Buckram Stiffening finish
*Courtesy of Westpoint Home
 HmEmlHIT ErHfflmimH

SwatchNumber Fiber Content

Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch

99 Liquid lame Allover metallic effect Polyester

100 Coated fabric (brown) Down proof Nylon

101 Allover flock (blue grey) Flocking Flock: nylonBack:polyester/cotton (blend)

102 Moleskin (dusty pink) Lightly sueded finish Warp: polyesterFilling:polyester and spandex(corespun)

103 Poplinette (grey gull) Supplex® nylon Supplex® nylon

104 Rip stop fabric (silver sage) Rip stop Nylon

105 Yoryu (coral) Crinkle effect Polyester

106 Fortuny satin (antique white) Fortuny effect Rayon

107 Matelasse knit (brown) Quilted effect Polyester

108 Polar fleece® type (navy) Double brushed fabric Polyester

109 Vinyl rainwear (black) Waterproof vinyl coating Face: vinylBack:polyester

110 Designer jacquard Accessory fabric Face: nylon and rayon(mixture)Back:vinyl

111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn Nylon

llZ Market umbrella fabric** Sunbrella® acrylic Acrylic

113 Buckram Stiffening finish Warp: cottonFilling:polyester monofilament

114 Placemat material Plastic coated Nylon

**Courtesy of Glen Raven

Sava/c£ Jci/
 J. J. Pizzuto's

TENTH EDITloN

Seva/c£ Jci/

Allen C. Cohen
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

lngrid Johnson
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to "Mounting the
Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets."

FAIRCHILD BOOKS
New York
 Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia
Assistant Art Director: Sarah Silberg
Production Director: Ginger Hillman
Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta
Copyeditor: Jeff Klingman
Ancillaries Editor: Noah Schwartzberg
Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter
Associate Director of sales: Melanie Sankel
Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert
Text Design and Page Layout: Tronvig Group

Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of cond6 Nast Publications.

All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be
reproduced or used in any form or by any means-graphic, electronic, or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval
systems-without written permission of the publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number:

ISBN: 978~1,60901-358-5
GST R 133004424
Printed in the United States of America
MC01, MC06
Key to Fabric Swatches Assignment 7 / Yams:
To Examine Different Yams of the Same Fiber
How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit Content
Assignments
Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets Assignment 8 / Yams:
Using the Pick Glass To Determine Yarn Structure

What's in a Fabric Name? Assignment 9 / Woven Fabrics:

To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure
Assignments
Assignment I / Fibers: Assignment 10 / Woven Fabrics:
To Relate Fiber Properties to Product Use To Create Basic Weaves

Assignment 2 / Fibers: Assignment 11 / Woven Fabrics:

To Show Variety of Types of Fabrics Made of To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave
the Same Fiber
Assignment 12 / Woven Fabrics:
Assignment 3 / Fibers: To Determine "V" and "W" Shape Cut Pile
To Evaluate Textile Absorbency lnterlacings

Assignment 4 / Fibers: Assignment 13 / Woven Fabrics:

To Identify Fibers by Solubility To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper

Assignment 5 / Fibers: Assignment 14 / Knitted Fabrics:

To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content To Determine Knitted Fabric Structure

Assignment 6 / Yams: Assignment 15 / Knitted Fabrics:

To Evaluate Yams To Determine Properties of Knitted Fabrics
Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics:
To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration
Assignment 17 / Dyed Fabrics:
To Determine Stage of Dyeing and Possible
Dye Class Used
Assignment 18 / Printed Fabrics:
To Evaluate Printed Design
Assignment 19 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Railroading of Upholstery Fabrics
Assignment 20 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interiors
Assignment 21 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Fabrics for Down+filled Cushions,
Quilts, or Pillows
Assignment 22 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Curtains
and Draperies
Assignment 23 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Interiors
Assignment 24 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Produce Fabric Patterns
Assignment 25 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Compare Covering Power
Assignment 26 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Analyze the Color Effect of a Woven
Fabric Design
Assignment 27 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Analyze a Fabric
Assignment 28 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine Tests to Perform on Fabrics for
a Specific End Product
Assignment 29 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine the Durability of the Fabrics
Assignment 30 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance
Assignment 31 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine Colorfastness Properties
of Fabrics
Assignment 32 / Textile Laws:
To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satisfy
Federal Laws
Fabric Sample Sheets
 Before removing rubberbands from
fabric swatches, refer to "Mount-
ing the Swatches on Fabric Sample
Sheets" (see page viii).

T he Fcibric Scl.encc Swcitch Kjc has been assembled

to supplement the study of textiles. The swatches
and assignments will enhance your understanding of
the principles described in the textbook. This Swatch
Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Tenth
Edition, text.
Most of the fabrics contained in the Fclb7ic Science
Swcitch Kit have been obtained from the marketplace.
They have been sold to apparel or interior furnishing
manufacturers and have eventually appeared in
stores as textile products (e.g., jackets and decorative
pillows).
The 114 fabric swatches included in the Swatch
Set represent examples of every major type of fiber,
yarn, weave, and knit as well as examples of dye,
print, and finishing applications. Examples are also
provided for more recent materials such as microde-
nier fiber,1yocell fiber, and special purpose "high-tech"
fabric such as Staybright" bleach-resistant fabric. In
addition, a fabric made of eco-friendly fibers, such as
organic cotton and reprocessed wool, have been in~
cluded.
The swatches have not been "pinked," but left
with straight edges to make it easier to remove yams
(this is necessary for fabric analysis). The rectangu-
lar form has been chosen to correspond to the fabric
length and width directions. (The long swatch direc~
tion is the fabric length.)
The swatches have been organized in approxi-
mately the order in which they will be studied: fibers,
yams, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc.
The Fctb7ic Scje7ice Swacch Kit also contains a Key
to identify the swatches by number and fabric name;
description and fiber content; Assignments; and Fabric
Sample Sheets for mounting swatches.
rE7Ess|gnanen/S
The assignments are designed to reinforce the text and
classroom lectures. They are developed to broaden your
understanding of the key concepts concerning textiles
by involving you directly in problem solving. Successful
completion of the assignments will help you develop
skills of observations, analysis, and report writing.
The assignments are straightforward and basic.
Extensive laboratory equipment is not required. Suf-
ficient information is provided for work to be indepenr
dent of a classroom environment.
For assignments that are to be completed in the
classroom, read the assignment before coming to class.
Use your textbook to review the related material prior
to the class meeting.

jlfoun/ing /£e Sava/cfes on ga6ric
Scimp[e Sfee/s
Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; dou~
ble~stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide) ; scissors
The Fclb7ic Scjenc€ swatches have been placed in
numerical order in the proper positions for mounting.
Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets.
The fabric number, name, and color listed in the
Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the
packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and
foolproof, follow these instructions:
1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets
until you actually begin mounting the swatches.
2. The swatches are packaged in two separate pack-
ets. One packet labeled "A" contains swatches
1-63; the second packet, labeled "8," 64-114;
and every 10 swatches are separated with tissue.
Packet One "A'':
Fibers (1-15)
Yams (16-27)
Woven Fabrics (28-48)
Knitted Fabrics (49-63)
Packet Two "8":
Knitted Fabrics (64-69)
Other Types of Fabrics (70-75)
Dyed Fabrics (76-80)
Printed Fabrics (81-88)
Textile Finishes (89-98)
Special Fabrics (99-114)
3. Carefully remove the rubberbands from the pack~
et labeled "A". Keep the packet upright. Mount
each swatch as you see it-face up and longer
sides vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over;
some fabrics have a face and back.)
4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using mask+
ing tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side
out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch,
with the two ends of the tape pointing downward,
about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The
tape will make it easier to remove swatches for
assignments and experiments, and to return them
to the Fabric Sample Sheets.
5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on
the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any
loose yams extending beyond the edges of the
swatches.
6. Write the fabric name, number, and fiber content
on the Fabric Sample Sheet.
As a helpful example of how the mounting boards
are usecl, see Swatch # 1 Denim below.
Swatch Number: 1
Fabric Name: Denim
Fiber Content: Cotton
Yarn Type: Spun
Weavefl(nit Type: 2/1 45° Twill Weave
Yams/Stitches per Inch: 61 x 48
Method of Coloration: Warp: Yam dyed
Filling: Not dyed
Finish: Calendered
End Use: Jeans
Notes: Not suitable for "skinny" jeans
Cllsing/£ej)ic£9[ass
The pick glass has become universal in its applications
in the field of textiles and clothing. Designers,
technicians, students, and teachers have ft)und it to be
an important tool for a better and clearer examination
of fabrics. Yam types, fabric weaves, knit stitches, and
cloth defects can be more easily identified through its
proper use. The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch
Kit) is particularly useful to determine the yams per
inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in knit
fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fabric
quality.) The pick glass (examining glass), or linen
tester, is composed of a frame, magnifying lenses,
and a measured opening in the base opposite the
lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the
measuring lines on the base are visible when looking
through the lenses.
Fabrics to be examined should be placed on
a flat, smooth surface. The surface must be well~
lighted. The open pick glass is placed on top of the
cloth and viewed through the lens section. The
user's head and not the pick glass should be raised or
lowered for better focus.
I,:dF:i':'tL`f:;!r€[t:::#)::``iab¥'['cC,::::TtTC:[sns;r':tt::):;t:[ias[SrichTs:::i:
origin and were originally produced only fr()in natural fibers.
However, as manut-actured fibers were developed (most within
the 20th century), many of these original fabrics began to be
made frtrm these new fibers. For example, taffeta was originally
made from 100°/o silk. Now taffeta is made frtrm rayon, acetate,
nylon, or polyester. All taft-eta fabrics will have similar appear/
ances, but some prt)perties will be different because itf the dif-
ferent fiber content (e.g., strength). Fabric #26 in this swatch
packet is an example of tat-feta made from nylon while fabric
#94 is made (tf acetate.
Another example of- a classic I.abric originally made i)nly
from silk is fabric #15, bridal satin. This fabric appears similar
to silk satin, but is made from acetate.
Many fabrics do not have historic names. Some of these
have names which describe the general end use. Fabric #21,
bathing-suit fabric, and fabric #111, luggage fabric, are two
such examples. Other fabrics have properties that are unique
ancl somewhat cliff-erent from any historic name fabric, or end-
use fabric. These are described by their special properties. Fab~
rics #68, sports jersey, fabric #98, accordion pleat, and fabric
#104, rip stop, are such examples. The woven fabric moire
faille, #31, is an example of a classic fabric whose name also
includes a special fabric property (i.e., moir€ design).
Look at the various namc`s of thL` fabrics in the "Key to
Fabric Swatches" to distinguish the classic name from the non-
classic ones.
 EHfflmlm Hpll]mumH HillHIImun tllll ElfflEmH Ri HHHi+ramuHnEmull n

rJo 93e[ale gi6er tjJroper/ies /o tjJroJuc/ (Ilse

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Select the following fabrics from the swatch set: 100°/o cotton,1000/o wool,100°/o silk, and 1000/o flax

Identify a different suitable end use for each fabric (e.g., shirt, dress, jacket, pants). List the major properties that
would make it appropriate for the selected end use.

Repeat the procedure for four different manufactured fibers (e.g„ 100°/o nylon,1000/o polyester,100°/o acrylic,
|00°/orayon).

SwatchNumber Major F2easons

Fabric Content End Use

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENim HBII]mumH kyillHlimun ENill HITdirmH Ri HHHiramurmHmull Pl

gosfoevvarie,yopypesofga6ricsjlfaJeof,£esamec/i6er

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Select two fabrics made of the same fiber (e.g.,100°/o cotton). Compare the fabrics by touch and observation.
Complete the following information:

1. Hand (the wayitfeels)

2. Appearance (e.g., luster, surface, color, design)

3. Weight (light, medium, heavy)

4. Other characteristics

Repeat the above procedure with fabrics made of other fibers (e.g.,100°/o polyester).

Note: 1. The fabric differences are the effects of the other aspects of the fabric, such as yarn type, construction
(e.g., weave) , color, and finish. 2. Repeat this experiment at the end of the course. Notice the differences in your
use of terminology and amount of detail in describing the fabrics.

SwatchNumber Other
Fiber Content Hand Appearance Weight

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENlm Hpli]RAE E]unlpiEL ENim EitlERIH Ri Hts]HiramurmHmull q

tJOGua[ua/etJex/I[enfl6sor6ency

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, gram balance, desiccator, conventional oven or microwave, tweezers, worksheet

Select one fabric from each of the following groups: cotton or wool; glass or olefin; acetate or rayon; polyester or
nylon. Each fabric should contain a single generic fiber type. White fabrics and fabrics without a chemical finish
are preferable since moisture regain will be less affected.

A. Remove moisture from the four selected fabrics samples by one of the following methods:

1. Place in a desiccator overnight.

2. Place on a sheet of aluminum foil in a warm (200° F or = 95 C) oven for 20 minutes.

3. Place on a paper towel in a microwave oven set on high for 25 seconds.

8. At the conclusion of the drying time, use tweezers to remove samples, one at a time. (Moisture on fingers
will affect weight.) Immediately weigh sample and record weight on the worksheet. Then remove and weigh
another sample.

Note: To prevent moisture from reaching dried, unweighed samples, keep oven door or desiccator lid in place
while weighing sample just removed. Also, since small differences in weight may be observed, it is important to
use a fine and precise weighing device such as a gram balance (weigh to the nearest milligram/mg accuracy) .

C. After all four, dried samples have been weighed, leave them out overnight in a humid environment (such as
a bathroom) . The next day, weigh the samples again to determine level of moisture regain.

D. Based on differences in fabric weight [subtract dry fabric weight (DFW) from regain fabric weight (RFW)],
label each fabrics as hydrophilic (+) or hydrophilic (-).

Note: If there is little or no ciifference between the dry fabric weight and the regain fabric weight, then rate
fabric as hydrophobic (-).

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics studied.

Name: Class: Date:

 Weight AbsorbencyRating
SwatchNumber
Fabric Name Fabric Content Dry Regain Difference
(DFW) (RFW) (RFW~DFW) (+) (-)
 EHfflmim HmlHmumH HillHIImEL ENlm ElfflEENH Ri HHHirtymurmEmull ng

7o gJen/i/y gi6ers 6y So[u6i[i/y

MATERIALs: Set of swatches, acetone*, chlorine bleach**, pick glass, scissors, two glass containers (watch glass
or small beaker), thin glass rod, worksheet

Use scissors to separate fibers from the fabrics assigned by the instructor.

Place a small amount of the fiber into each of the two glass containers. Identify one glass as chlorine bleach and
the second glass as acetone. Pour fresh chlorine bleach into the glass labeled chlorine bleach until the fibers are
entirely covered. Cover the fiber in the remaining glass with acetone. Allow the specimens to stand at room
temperature for 5 minutes. Periodically move the fibers in the liquid with a thin glass rod.

After 5 minutes, inspect the glass containing acetone. On the worksheet record whether or not the fiber
dissolved.

After 20 minutes, inspect the glass containing chlorine bleach. On the worksheet record whether or not the
fiber dissolved.

Note: Students could test different fibers and then share the results.
*Nail pttlish removers composed of acetone must be used.
**Clorox`Lt or similar products in concentrated form should be used.

SwatchNumber Dissolve (Yes or No)

Fiber Content Other Observations
Acetone BIeach

Acetate

Wool

Silk

Cotton
Acrylic

Nylon

Polyester

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENim HmiErmmH HillHnmffl ENill EitlHENisi Ri HHHimmurmHmull E]

9oGa[cu[a,e93ercenfageofgf6erGonfenf

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, scissors, acetone*, small glass container (beaker) , gram balance,
worksheet

A. Select from the swatch set a fabric with a fiber content of acetate and another fiber (e.g., acetate and
rayon).

8. Cut a one~inch strip from the bottom of the swatch.

C. Using gram balance, weigh the strip as accurately as possible (to the nearest milligram/mg accuracy).

D. Place the strip in the glass container. Reduce the fabric into fiber form.

E. Pour acetone to cover the material completely.

F. Allow the specimen to stand at room temperature until the acetate yams/fibers have been dissolved.
Periodically move the fibers in the liquid.

G. Carefully pour off the acetone and air+dry the specimen.

H. Weigh the dry specimen and calculate the percent fiber content. Round off each percent as it would appear
on a label (e.g., 65°/o and not 64.90/o) .

I. Compute the percent fiber content using the following formulas and record the results:

o/o acetate = (original weight - weight of remaining fibers) x100

original weight

o/o rayon = (weight of remaining fibers)

original weight

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabric studied.
*Nail polish removers composed of acetone must be used.

Name: Class: Date:

 EHB]NIm HmiHmumE HillHldffl ENim mHmmuH Ri HHHiREmurmEmuil ng

go Goa[ua,eT) urns

MATERIALs: set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Examine both the warp (W) and the filling (F) yams of the fabrics assigned by the instructor.

Determine the following:

1. Fiber type (staple, filament)

2. Yarn type (single, ply, cord, novelty)

3. Directionoftwist (S or z)

4. Level of twist-high (H), medium (M), or low (L)

5. Appropriate yarn numbering system

Record the observations on the worksheet.

Repeat the procedure for other fabrics.

After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

Twist Twist Yarn

Swatch Fabric Yarn Fiber Yarn
Direction Leyel Numbering
Number Name (W or F) Type Type
(S or Z) (H-M-L) System

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENim HmiHmumH HillHlimffl ENim flHENmuH ty HHHiBdrmEmuil ii

go &xaminerDlfferen/7)arns of ,£e same gi6er Con,en,

MATERIArs: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

A. Select two different 100% cotton fabrics and compare their yams as to the size (thick or thin), amount of
twist (high-medium-low), twist direction (S or Z), and any other yearn feature observed (e.g., fuzzy) .

Comment on how the yarn has affected the fabric appearance and hand.

Record observations on the worksheet.

8. Select two 100°/o manufactured fiber fabrics of the same fiber content (e.g., polyester), one with spun yams
and the other with filament yams. Compare their differences on the worksheet.

Comment on how the yarn has affected the fabric appearance and hand.

Record the observations on the worksheet.

After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

Yarn Size(ThickorThin) TwistDirection(SorZ)

Swatch Fabric Yarn Twist Yarn
Number Name (H-M-L) Effect

1000/oCotton 1.2.

1000/o 1.2.

Name: Class: Date ;

 HHfflrmu rs]mITrmmH HmHnmffl mulrd xpHtimuH ry HHHimmurmHmun in

`Jo(De,ermine:I)arns,rue,ure

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Examine both the warp (W) and the filling (F) yams of fabrics in the swatch set containing one type of yarn
listed on the worksheet below. Do not duplicate any fabric, if possible.

SwatchNumber
Type of Yarn Fabric Name

Spun

Filament (flat)

Filament (textured)

Single

Ply

High twist

Low twist

Carded

Combed

Woolen
Worsted

Stretch

Novelty

Thick yarn (spun)

Thin yarn (spun)

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENim rs]mlHmumE HillHnmffl mulnPl illrtynHmu EHfflmuH ry Hts]HimmurmEmun q

r]or7J]na[yzeci:7ulouenga6rics/rue/ure

MATERIALs: Set of swatches, pick glass, workshee[

Examine the fabric assigned by the instructor and determine the following:

1. Face and back sides or if the fabric is reversible. Describe the face side or write "reversible" if the fabric
appears to look the same on both sides.

2. Which rules apply for determining the warp direction.7 Write two rules of identifying the warp direction that
apply to the swatch examined.

3. Yams per inch, for both warp and filling (cloth count).
After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for each fabric studies.

Note: This assignment can be done in stages, after each topic is discussed in class.

SwatchNumber
Face Side Description Warp Yarn Rules Yams per Inch

Name: Class: Date :

 EHfflENim HmITunmE HillHnmffl thiil illmulHmu EHtlENmH ry HHHimmurmHmun FIRE

(Jo G|.ea/e j3 asic:7uleaues

MATERIALs: Colored paper (2 colors) or hand knitting yams (2 colors) scissors, ruler, tape, worksheet

Part I
A. Select a plain weave fabric from the swatch set for the reference. Use diagrams in the textbook as an
additional guide. Using strips of paper or hand knitting yams, create a plain weave.

8. Cut 12 strips of paper or lengths of hand knitting yarn of one color and 12 strips of lengths of another color
(a total of 24) . The strips or lengths should be about 4 inches (10.16 cm) long and about 1/8 inch (.32 cm)
wide.

C. Tape the ends of paper strips or yams of one color to the left side of the plain-weave box on the worksheet
so that they are side-by-side.

D. Weave the strips or yams to create a plain weave.

Part 11
Same procedure, but create a twill weave.

Part Ill
Same procedure, but create a satin weave.

Part IV
Same procedure, but create another weave (e.g., basket or rib).

Name : Class : Date :

Plain Weave Twill Weave

Satin Weave
 EHfflrmm kymITdiniE kyillHil ffl minPl illrtynHmu EHre]NImg] ry Hg]rs]mmurmEmull pp

9oS/uJyciga6I.icevi/fan(llncu/tj3i[e:7uleaue

MATERIALs: Terry cloth, pick glass, worksheet

Carefully remove several warp yams, one at a time, from the terry cloth fabric in the swatch set.

Determine how many ground warp yams there are for each set of pile warp yams.

Examine the ground warp yams and the pile warp yams.

A. Compare the length of a ground warp yarn to that of a pile warp yarn.

8. State any differences observed between ground warp and pile warp yams and indicate why the cloth was so
constructed.

Examine the terry cloth and determine the ground weave of the fabric.

After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabric
studied.

Name: Class: Date:

 EHtlENim HmiEmumH HillHldffl trylm illmillEmu EHffltliBIH Ri HHHiramurmEmuli FiPl

5orJ)elermine ":7)" and ":7al" Shape Gu/ tJJi[e gn/er[acings

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, tweezers, worksheet

Select a cut pile fabric from the swatch set (e.g., velvet, velveteen, or corduroy). Using a tweezer (or fingernails),
firmly pull a small amount of the pile surface from the swatch.

Examine the removed piece of cut pile yarn with a pick glass to determine if the fabric was made with "V" or
"W" interlacings.

Repeat the procedure with other cut pile fabrics in the swatch set.

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for each fabric studied.

Note: The pile construction affects the fabric wearability. The short length of cut pile yarn may have a "V"
shape or a "W" shape. The "W" shape pile is more firmly held in place and will better prevent a bald spot from
developing.

Swatch Type Interlacing

Fabric Name
Number (V or W)

Name : Class: Date :

 EHtlENird HmITmmE HillHidun nyITI illmnHmu EHfflfflimH Ri HHHIRErmrmEmuil nq

go93eproJuceciga6ric:7uleaueontj)esigntj3aper

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, point paper (graph paper)

Using the point paper show the weaves of those fabrics assigned by the instructor. Indicate two repeats vertically
and two repeats horizontally.

After the weaves have been checked, show one repeat of the weave on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
examined.

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENin HmITmDH ElillHilmffl nyim ENmuillllErm HHfflmimH ty HHHiramurmEmull iiq

go(De/ermine Jcni//eJ Cfa61.ic S/I.uC/ul.e

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Examine each of the fabrics assigned by the instructor and determine the following:

1. Knit type: warp or weft knit. How did you identify?

2. Stitch type: plain, purl, miss, tuck

3. Stitches per inch: wales and courses per inch

4. Most stretch direction: lengthwise or widthwise

5. Enduse

MostStretchDirection
Swatch Fabric Stitches
Wa`IPIWoft Stitch Type End Use
Number Name per Inch

Name: Class: Date :

 EHtirmim HmiEmumH HillHIDiffl nITI ENmulllllErm EHfflENimH Ri HHHimmurmEmull nE]

gorDe,ermine`j3roper,iesofJcni,,eJga6rics

MAIERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

For each of the fabrics assigned by the instructor determine the following:

1. Method of construction: warp or weft knit

2. Degree of curling: Lay fabric flat on a smooth surface and observe if the fabric edges roll or curl.

3. Ease of stretch: Pull fabric in lengthwise and crosswise directions to determine if it stretches easily.

4. Degree of cover: Examine size of loop holes and construction openings between loops to determine covering
Power.
5. Degree of snagging: Drag a needle or sharp object across fabric surface to determine ease of snagging.

6. Ease of raveling: For ease of raveling, pull out yarn at one corner of fabric.

Record the observations on the worksheet.

After the observations have been checked, record the information in the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

Swatch Fabric Degree of Ease of Degree of Degree of Ease of

Number Name Curling Stretch Coyer Snagging Rayeling

Name: Class: Date :

 EHB]NIm HmlHmumE HillHimEL nylll rmflErm EHfflENIDiH ty HHHiREmurmHmull iiM

gorDe,ermine,£e(DegreeofrDye`j?ene,ra,ion

MATERIALs: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Examine the denim fabric and at least two other dark colored spun yarn fabrics.

Remove one of the dark colored yams. Untwist it and observe the color uniformity of the fibers within. Indicate
if any white fibers or much lighter colored fibers are present-High, Medium, Low. (High indicates poor dye
penetration.)

What unfavorable characteristics or properties occur when a fabric has poor dye penetration?

Record the observations on the worksheet.

After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

Swatch Amount of Amount of Light Color

Fabric Name
Number White Fibers (H-M-L) Fibers (H-M-L)

Unfavorable characteristics or properties of poor dye penetration:

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENlm HmlEmumE HillHlmffl tllll rmHHrm EHfflmimH Ri illHHiBElrmEmun Plii

t]orDe,ermjnesfageoftDyefnganftj2ossfc[erj]yeG[asst,%sef

MATERIALs: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

For each of the dyed fabrics assigned by the instructor choose the least expensive stage of dyeing that could have
been used (stock, yarn, or piece) for that fabric.

Also select a dye class that could have been used for the dyeing process. (If a blend or mixture, two dyes might
be required to produce the color effect.)

Record the information on the worksheet.

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics studied.

Swatch Fiber(s) Probable Stage Possible

Fabric Name
Number Contents of Dyeing Dye Class

Name: Class: Date :

 HHfflENim HmiHmumE HillHIImffl nyim mmimuITan EHB]NImH ry HHHimmurmHmuil iiB]

9oGoa[ua/eJ3rin/eJ©esign

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

For each printed fabric in the swatch set determine the following:

1. Name of the print: e.g., direct or blotch

2. Print type: wet print (dye) or dry print (pigment)

3. Number of rollers or screens required: one for each color applied

4. Possible printing machine used: roller, flat bed, rotary

Record the observations on the worksheet. After the observations have been checked, record the information
on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics studies.

No. ofRollers/Screens PossiblePrintingMachine

Swatch Fabric Print Type
Print Name
Number Name (Wet or Dry)

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENlm HmlEmumH HillHnmffl mlm ildiilITdi Emm imuITdilmmH q HHHirtymurmrelun np

tJoC)xalr2ine93al[roaJlngof(11pfo[s/erygcl6rics

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

lt is sometimes desirable for the fabric to be placed on the upholstered furniture piece so that the length of the
fabric is side+to-side and not from toprto+bottom (or front-to+back on a cushion). At times, "railroading" of
fabrics on furniture is a cost-saving process since less fabric may be required. Patterned fabrics, such as striped,
jacquard design, or printed, sometimes can be railroaded while other times they cannot because of one-
directional patterns (e.g., trees or bottles).

Review the swatch set and identify those fabrics with stripes, woven designs, ribs, or printed designs.

A. Determine which of the fabrics may be railroaded.

8. For each identified fabric, determine whether or not it would be appropriate to use the fabric for upholstery.
Consider the appearance and durability in making your decision. Explain your response.

Record the information on the worksheet.

After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

May Be Appropriate
SwatchNumber
Fabric Name Railroaded as Upholstery F}eason
(Yes/No) Fabric (Yes/No)

Name : Class : Date:

 EHfflrmim HmITmb]H HillHID-ffl ENill ildiilINdi EmEN imullErfuimmH ty HHHimmurmEmull Plqu

(Jo &xamine ginisfes on`Jex,i[es for gn,eriors

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

Each fabric in the swatch set designated as a drapery and/or upholstery fabric has been treated with either an
aesthetic or functional finish.

Examine the swatches and list the finish as aesthetic or functional, and suitable end use (drapery or upholstery).
Identify the properties contributed by the finish.

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for each fabric studied.

Fabric Use Finish Properties

SwatchNumber
Fabric Name (Drapery/ (Aesthetic/ Contributed by the
Upholstery) Functional) Finish

Name: Class: Date :

 EHfflENim HmiHmumH kyillHldffl thill IIRIIIITI]H EmEN ITNIdiipEENH Ri HB]HiBEmurmHmuli PIPl

go &xamine 5/a6rics for (Doevn,I/i[[eJ Gusfions,

Qui[,s, ol. gJi[[oevs

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

Down-filled articles require fabrics with tight constructions and sometimes special functional finishes to prevent
loss of down through the fabric interlinings.

Select ten fabrics from the swatch set suitable for use as down-filled coverings. Identify the fabric property and
functional finishes required for use in a down-filled covering.

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for each fabric studied.

SwatchNumber Functional Finish

Fabric Name Fabric Property

Name: Class: Date :

 EillfflENim HmITunmE HillHiimffl ENIII IIdiilITdi Emm imullEENimmts] ty HHHiBtlAlinEmuil PIPl

tJo cjxamine ga6rics sui/ci6[e for GUT/Gins anJtDraperies

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

1. List the fabrics in the swatch set that would be suitable for use as drapery lining. (Assume all possessed
suitable lightfastness.) Briefly indicate why fabric was selected.

SwatchNumber
Fabric Name F}eason

2. List the fabrics in the swatch set that would be suitable for use as curtains. (Assume all possessed suitable
light fastness and laundry fastness.) Briefly indicate why fabric was selected.

SwatchNumber Reason
Fabric Name

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENm HmITqumE HillHnmffl ENlrd ITunITIIdi Emrm lmuildilmrmH ry Hrs]rs]mmurmHmun Plq

(Jo CJxamine gacI.ics Sui/a6[e I/ol. gn/el.iors

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

For each of the interiors' fabrics in the swatch set, identify which are in the following categories:

jacquard weave:

dobby weave:

solution dyed:

yarn dyed:

piece dyed:

printed:

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENlm HmlEmupiE HillHIImffl rmird HmuHITHHIH mE HHfflrmimH ty HHB]mRlinEmull PIPg

9o jJI.oJuce gall.ic tj3a//eI.ns

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

There are various ways a fabric pattern can be produced. These methods include the following:

A. Weaving
8. Knitting
C. Varying surface heights on materials, such as ribbed or sculptured effects

D. Printing
E. Finishing, such as embossing

F. Grouping ofcolored yams, such as plaids or stripes

From the swatch set select at least one example for each method indicated above. Also include any other
methods, if observed.

SwatchNumber
Method of Producing Patterns

Name: Class: Date:

 EHtiENim HmiEmubiE HillHldffl nylm HmuHquRIHiH mH EHfflrmiBIH Ri HHHirtymurmEmull Plj]

r]oGompareGooering9)ouner

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Select two woven fabrics from the swatch set, one with good cover and one with poor cover. For each fabric
state the factors that affect fabric cover and discuss their effect on the fabric chosen.

Some of these factors are fiber content, yarn type, yarn size, fabric count (yams per inch or stitches per inch),
weave or knit, and finish.

Repeat the procedure with different swatches.

Swatch Degree of Cover

Comments
Number (Good or Poor)

Name: Class : Date:

 HHfflmim ts]mITmlyE HillHnmffl nyinF HmuHITqurs]Es] mE EHfflENmH ry HHHirtymurmHmun PIE]

gonJfna[yze,£eGo[orGffec,ofa:7alooenga6ric(Design

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Select a woven plaid or striped fabric from the swatch set. Analyze the fabric for color effect and show the
colored pattern on design paper. Use colored pencils to show the color at each interlacing. Show at least two
vertical and two horizontal repeats of the color pattern.

Optional: Examine other woven plaid or striped fabrics and repeat the assignment.

Name: Class: Date:

 EHfflENim HmITmmE HillHidffl nyITI HmuHITflHiH mE EHB]NIpiH ty HHHiBEiRlfflHmull Plii

r]or7Jfna[yzeaga6ric

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, pick glass, worksheet

Select a fabric and complete the following information:

A. Fabric name and number

8. Fiber content
C. Type of yarn (spun, filament, or novelty)
D. Twist direction in yam (S or Z)
E. Number of filaments in the yams, if a filament yarn (use pick glass)
F. Yams per inch or stitches per inch in length and width direction (average of 5 measurements each)

G. Type of weave, or if a knit fabric, type of stitches in cloth

H. Fabric weight (ounces per square yard)

I. Method of dyeing (e.g., yarn dye) or type of print (e.g., blotch print)

J. Type offinishes
K. Any other information that can be learned about the fabric (e.g., degree of cover)
L. Write a paragraph or several sentences about a possible end use for this fabric and why you feel that this
fabric would be satisfactory for this end use (based upon your analysis).

Name : Class: Date :

 HHfflffllm HmITrmmE HillHlmffl tllm EHfflmlm mEENEpdENrmHmupiH ITdiilITRE Ri HHHiREmurmEmull PIB]

`Jo(De,ermine`Jes,s ,o `J?er form on ga6rics for a

Specific 8nJ JJroJucl

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

Select a fabric from the swatch set. Choose an end use (e.g„ shirt) for which the fabric could be used.

Indicate two colorfastness tests and two physical tests you think would be important to determine if the fabric
would be satisfactory for the specific end use selected. Briefly explain (one sentence) why you think each test
should be performed.

Repeat the procedure for other fabrics.

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics studied.

SwatchNumber
End Use Tests and Reasons

Name: Class: Date:

 HHfflENim Hpli]muBIH kyillHnmun nyill EHfflENlm fflHmEmmrmHmumE nE illnra Ri HHHiramurmEmull Pang

go(De,ermine ,£erj)ura6i[i,y of ,£e ga6rics

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

List the names of the first pair of fabrics assigned by the instructor on the worksheet. Indicate which of the two
fabrics is probably stronger and more abrasion resistant. Under the "Comments" include the factors that have
influenced your decision, such as:

A. Fiber content
8. Yarn type, size and amount of twist
C. Weave orknit
D. Closeness ofyarns or stitches
E. Finish applied

Continue with the other pairs of fabrics assigned by instructor.

SwatchNumber
More Durable Fabric Comments

Name: Class: Date :

 H=HtlENu HmITqumH HillHnmffl nyim EHfflrmm ENEmEmrfurmHmumH ilqkylllnrty ry Hp]pimmurmEmuil i]E

tJotDe/eI.mines/a6I`ic:7alrin£[e93esis/Once

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

Place the swatch assigned by the instructor in your hand. Crumple the swatch by clinching your fist (i.e., closing
your fingers over the swatch) . Hold the position for one minute.

Open your hand to release the swatch, shake it several times, and then hold it up by one edge for 30 seconds.

Place the test fabric on a flat surface. Evaluate fabric wrinkle resistance using the following scale:

High-Heavily wrinkled
Medium-Some evidence of wrinkling
Low-Little to no apparent wrinkling

Record your observations on the worksheet. Also state major fabric factors contributing towards your evaluation
(e.g., fiber content, crepe yarn, finish).

Repeat the procedure for other assigned fabrics.

After the observations have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheet for the fabrics
studied.

Swatch Wrinkle Resistance

Fabric Name Comments
Number Evaluation (H-M-L)

Name: Class : Date:

 EHtimu HmITrmmH HillHnmffl nylil EHtltlm mEmmmrmHmumE IIdilnmum ni HHrs]mmurmEmun qn

(Jo(De,ermineGo[orfas,ness`J?roper,iesofga6rics

MATERIALs: Set of swatches, pick glass, teaspoon, scissors, white cotton cloth at least 12" x 12" (30.5 cm x
30.5 cm), worksheet (additional materials are also listed with some sections of this assignment)

This experiment is to be performed by a team of four students. Each student will use the same swatch from their
set. After each student performs his or her part of the experiment, the observations should be exchanged and
recorded on the worksheet.

Dark colored fabrics will probably show color change faster than light colored fabrics. Also, fabrics with poor dye
penetration, such as denim, should show color change quicker (refer to Fabric Science Swatch Kit Assignment
16royed Fabrics) .

The following colorfastness tests will be performed on the assigned fabrics by three of the students on the team.
The fourth student's sample will be used as the original for comparison purposes. The fabric should be rated as
good, fair, or poor.
• Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry)

• Colorfastness to perspiration

• Colorfastness to washing (hot water)

The students who are part of this experiment for one fabric can also be part of another team's evaluation of
another fabric. (Each student should perform a test that is different from the one performed by the first team.)

After the results have been checked, record the information on the Fabric Sample Sheets for the fabrics studied.

Colorfastness to Crocking (wet and dry)

A. Using a 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) piece of dry, white cotton cloth, cover the end of an unsharpened pencil,
an eraser, or a pen with a flat-top. Hold the cloth on the pen or pencil and rub ten times forward and back
in the diagonal direction over a two/inch distance. Use the same motion and pressure that would be used to
erase a pencil mark from a piece of paper.

8. Examine the small rubbed area of the white cotton. Rate the colorfastness to dry crocking as either good
(none or slight color on the white cloth), fair (noticeable color) , or poor (pronounced color) .

C. Repeat the procedure using another 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) piece of the same white cotton cloth. This
4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) piece, however, should be saturated with water and then squeezed out. Rub in a
different area on the colored fabric. Rate the colorfastness to wet crocking as good, fair, or poor.

The same 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) fabric can be used with several fabrics, but be sure to change the position
of the fabric on the pen or pencil so that a clean portion of the cloth is on the flat rubbing end.
 Colorfastness to Perspiration
Additional Materials: White vinegar, salt, wax paper, one glass container

Freshly secreted perspiration is acidic in nature. Gradually it becomes strongly alkaline. Perspiration usually has
its major effect on dyes when it is acidic. Therefore, only this effect will be tested.

A. To make the acid preparation test solution, pour one cup of lukewarm water into a beaker or other glass
container. Add one teaspoon of white vinegar and a half a teaspoon of salt.

8. Put a piece of white cotton cloth equal in size to the colored swatch. Wet both the colored swatch and the
white cloth with the acid perspiration test solution. Squeeze out the two pieces and roll them together with
the white fabric on the inside. Wrap wax paper around the roll of fabric. Twist the ends of the paper to hold
it together.

C. Allow the roll to remain overnight at room temperature. Then open up the roll and allow the samples to dry
completely. Compare the colored test swatch with an original (untested) swatch. Rate the colored swatch
for colorfastness to perspiration and the white fabric for colorfastness to staining from perspiration as either
good (none or slight color change) , fair (noticeable color change) , or poor (pronounced color change) .

The white cloth can be mounted next to the test specimen on the Fabric Sample Sheet and labeled.

Colorfastness to Washing
Additional Materials: Detergent, pint-sized jar or glass container

A. Cut a piece of white cotton cloth equal in size to the colored swatch. In the pint-sized jar, place a metal
spoon, a half teaspoon of detergent, and the colored swatch with the white sample attached (staple ends
together) . Pour one-quarter jar of the hottest water from the faucet into the jar. Stir the solution for 2
minutes. Wait 5 minutes and stir for 2 minutes again. Repeat for 2 more cycles.

8. Pour out the wash water, noting its color, to observe if any bleeding of the color occurred. Rinse the dyed
sample in cold water and dry. Rate the colored swatch for color fastness to washing (hot water) and the
white fabric for colorfastness to staining from washing as either good (none or slight color change) , fair
(noticeable color change) , or poor (pronounced color change) .

The white cloth can be mounted next to the test specimen on the Fabric Sample Sheet and labeled.
 Eillfflrmim HmITanmE HillHilmun nylm rmre]NIm mEmmrfurmHmumE E ITinrty ni illg]g]mmurmEmull E]Pl

CF to Crocking Perspiration Washing

SwatchNumber
Fabric Name (G-F-P) (G-F-P) (G-F-P)
Dry Wet CF Staining CF Staining Bleeding

Name: Class: Date :

 iillHHm[IIdim[iHunri=|rJIIIEIIIIIImm[sT+Im=ilL[I=mlLIIEZ=

tJorj)eue[opnJfppropria/efia6e[s/osci/is/ygeJera[8aevs

MATERIALS: Set of swatches, worksheet

Federal regulations require that a pemanent label be attached to apparel showing correct procedures for
cleaning a garment. The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TFPIA) requires that a permanent label
containing information about fiber content and country of origin also be attached.

Select a fabric from the swatch set that would be appropriate for an item of apparel. Identify an appropriate end
use for the selected fabric.

Write care label information (i.e., instructions of care and maintenance of fabric) for this fabric. Include all the
information that must be included under the TFPIA. Assume a company name/RN number and country of
Origin.

If the fabric is a blend, assume an appropriate percent fabric content.

Repeat the procedure for other fabrics.

Swatch TFPIA Care Label

Fiber Content End Use
Number Information Instructions

Name: Class: Date:

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Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number

Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content

Yam Type Yarn Type YarnType

WeaveKnitType Weavefl(nit Type WeaveKnitType

Yams/Stitches per Inch Yams/Stitches per Inch Yams/Stitches per Inch

Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloratic)n

Finish Finish Finish

End Use End Use End Use

Swatch Swatch Swatch

© Fairchild Books, a division of cond6 Nast Publications, Inc.

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Swatch Swatch Swatch

Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number

Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content

Yarn Type Yam Type Yarn Type

WeaveKnitType Weavefl(nit Type Weaveffnit Type

Yams/Stitches per Inch Yams/Stitches per Inch Yams/Stitches per Inch

Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloratic>n

Finish Finish Finish

End Use End Use End Use

© Fairchild Books, a division of conde Nast Publications, Inc.