Excellence in Design — Development of a Sports Bra Prototype

Patternworks International Best Solution to a Patternmaking Problem, 2000

Grace Krenzer, Cathy Starr, Donna Branson

Key Words
Clothing Comfort, Design Process, Exercise, Large-busted Women, Sports Bras, Textiles

Abstract
Studies have confirmed that many women, particularly larger busted women, experience breast
discomfort while exercising, causing some to avoid exercise all together. The purpose of this study was
to use a systematic design process that incorporated conducting several research studies as input to
the development of a prototype sports bra for large-busted women. The resulting prototype sports bra,
developed by draping and flat pattern, was designed to resolve specific comfort, support, and aesthetic
issues reported by large-busted women. Fabric choices, design modifications, and fabric layering were
used to accommodate these specific issues. A performance evaluation wear study of the prototype bra
and two other sports bras was completed in July 2002.

Concept/Problem Statement review indicated that a sports bra should provide

good upward support, limit breast motion, and be

“
They can put a man on the moon, but they
can’t put a woman in a sports bra that’s very
comfortable” (Miller, 1998, p. 2). Despite
today’s technological advances, many physically
active women are still unable to acquire comfort-
able, supportive sports bras. Ramifications from
the inability to locate a good, supportive bra can
manifest itself in the refusal to exercise, breast dis-
comfort or pain during exercise, and the irrevers-
ible breakdown of breast tissue. These problems are
exacerbated for larger busted women.
Design Process
The team of Starr and Krenzer (2000) developed
a prototype sports bra using the functional design
process delineated in Watkins (1995) as a part of a
graduate course in functional design. The literature
Authors’ Address: Oklahoma State University, Department of
Design, Housing, and Merchandising, 431 Human Environ-
mental Sciences, Stillwater, OK 74078-6142.
constructed from primarily non-elastic materials
that are non-allergenic, non-abrasive, and have
good moisture management properties.
As part of the design process, a survey instrument
was developed to evaluate users’ perceptions of the
fit and performance of sports bras, determine de-
sign preferences, obtain demographic information,
and provide insight into the complex engineering
problem involved in designing bras. The method of
data collection was a self-administered question-
naire for ease of distribution and for collecting the
largest possible amount of data in the shortest time.
As random sampling would not target specific
lifestyles, a convenience sample of women who reg-
ularly exercise was obtained primarily by personal
contact, as well as via the Internet. Individuals were
approached at local health centers as well as four
individuals who were contacted by Internet, and
asked to participate in the survey. A total of 122
questionnaires were distributed, and 82, includ-
ing the four Internet surveys were returned for a
response rate of 67%. Clothing characteristics that

©2005 International Textile & Apparel Association Volume 23 #2 2005 131

 Table 1. Garment Fabrication

Exterior bra fabric Inner bra fabric

Fiber content front and straps: 68% Coolmax®/ 32% Lycra® polyester/Hydrofil® with brushed finish
back insert: 72% Coolmax®/ 28% Lycra®

Construction double filling knit (Interlock) warp knit (Tricot)

Mesh Insert mesh insert

influence active women’s satisfaction with available
sports bras, specifically fit and support, were ad-
dressed. In general, cup size was an important de-
terminant in respondents’ satisfaction with sports
bras. Large-busted respondents reported being
unable to find well-fitting, comfortable, supportive
sports bras (Starr & Krenzer, 2000).
To select fabrics for the prototype sports bra, 14
materials were evaluated on their performance. Bra

Figure 1. Front and back views of inner and exterior bra designating specific fea-
tures of bra components.

132 Clothing Textiles ©2005 International Textile & Apparel Association

 Side Front View
Figure 2. Prototype sports bra.
fabrics were selected based on the results from four
textile tests: dimensional stability (AATCC Test
Method 96-1972), pilling (ASTM D3512-97), abra-
sion resistance (ASTM D3888-809), and wicking
(Harnett and Metha, 1984). A 68% polyester and
32% Lycra CoolMaxTM fabric with two-way stretch
that performed better in the dimensional stability
and pilling tests than the other candidate fabrics
was chosen for the exterior fabric (see Table 1). A
brushed non-stretch polyester and Hydrofil® nylon
knit fabric with good wicking and dimensional
stability results was selected as the inner fabric to
form a stabilizing foundation.
Design and materials specifications as well as
design criteria were developed and ranked. The
resulting prototype sports bra resolved specific
comfort, support, and aesthetic issues reported by
large-busted women through fabric choices, design
modifications, and fabric layering.
Description of Design
Sports bras, available in encapsulation and com-
pression forms, are designed to control, support,
and contain breast tissue during strenuous exercise
while many are purported to facilitate moisture
©2005 International Textile & Apparel Association
Back View
transport as well. Compression bras do not have
cups and flatten breasts close to the body to re-
distribute their mass evenly across the chest, thus
minimizing motion. This creates an unflattering
look and is uncomfortable for many wearers. En-
capsulation bras have cups that separate the body
mass into two smaller masses to support the breast
tissue in a more feminine shape.
The prototype sports bra was designed to address
the following needs: support breast tissue, mini-
mize breast motion, provide a flattering look, facili-
tate thermal comfort, provide coverage, and offer
ease in donning and doffing. To support breast
tissue and minimize breast motion, the prototype
combined an encapsulating inner bra with a com-
pression-style outer bra: the inner bra separates
and contains each breast and the outer bra com-
presses the breasts to the chest cavity by means of a
high modulus knit fabric. Motion was also mini-
mized through the presence of wide, non-adjust-
able shoulder straps. A combination of fabrics with
good moisture management properties was used
to facilitate thermal comfort. A high neckline and
wide side bands offered greater coverage than in
typical sports bras. An adjustable back closure and
a wide underbust band made it easy to don and
doff the bra, as well as providing support, comfort,
Volume 23 #2 2005 133
 and good fit. Figure 1 illustrates front and back views
of the inner and exterior bra design. Figure 2 shows
the prototype bra on a size appropriate dress form.
Techniques and Media Employed
Draping was used in development of the non-
stretch encapsulating inner bra. Both flat pattern
and draping were used for creating a pattern for the
exterior bra.
Design Evaluation
Development of the prototype sports bra was
completed in December 1999, and the design was
evaluated using the specifications and design cri-
teria. In July 2002 Cathy Starr completed a perfor-
mance evaluation wear study on the prototype bra
and two other sports bras using subjects exercising
in a controlled environmental laboratory (Starr,
2002). The overall study used two methods to as-
sess and compare the support and thermal comfort
associated with wearing the three sports bras.
134 Clothing Textiles
References
Harnett, P. R., & Metha, P. N. (1984). A survey
and comparison of laboratory test methods for
measuring wicking. Textile Research Journal, 54,
471–478.
Hydrofil® nylon: Introducing a better way to make
nylon. (1988). New York: Allied Fibers.
Miller, M. (1998, October 5). Booster shots; that’s
non-support for you. The Los Angeles Times, p. 2.
Starr, C., & Krenzer, G. (2000). Design process:
Prototype sports bra. 2000 International Textile
and Apparel Association Proceedings. Retrieved
January 7, 2002, from http://www.itaaonline.
org/ITAAnew/Proceedings2000/fri/36.html
Starr, C. L. (2002). Biomechanical and thermal
comfort analysis of a prototype sports bra.Unpub-
lished masters thesis, Oklahoma State Univer-
sity, Stillwater.
Watkins, S. (1995). Clothing: The portable environ-
ment. Ames: Iowa State University Press.
©2005 International Textile & Apparel Association