Focus and Recompose Technique

When photographing with a digital camera, it might sometimes be impossible to focus on the
edges of the frame due to the limitations of the camera. To be able to get around the problem,
photographers can use a technique called “focus and recompose”. In this article, I will go over
the focus and recompose technique, which can be quite useful when photographing in various
environments – whether shooting in low-light situations or composing your shots with the
subject in the corner of the frame.

Image captured with the Focus and Recompose technique

NIKON D700 + 50mm f/1.4 @ 50mm, ISO 200, 1/320, f/1.8

I personally use this technique quite a bit when doing event and wildlife photography. It saved
me a number of times when the light conditions were extremely poor and my camera could not
properly focus. It also works really well in situations where my camera’s focus points are only
concentrated in the middle of the frame.
Table of Contents

 What Recomposing Means

 Why the Need to Recompose?
 Focusing and Recomposing Methods
o Single Servo Focus Method
o Autofocus Lock Method
o AF-ON / Back Button Method
 Potential Focus Issues

What Recomposing Means

Before I talk about this technique, let me first explain what the word “recompose” stands for in
photography. When you take a picture, you carefully frame your shot and place your subject
somewhere in the frame before you take a picture. In other words, you compose the shot.
Recomposing simply means framing your shot first (for example to acquire focus), then moving
your camera to reposition your subject somewhere else in the frame.

For example, let’s say you started off by placing the subject in the center of the frame and
focusing on the subject’s eyes. Instead of having a boring shot with your subject in the dead
center, you could place the subject a little to the side and end up with a much better composition.
In other words, you are recomposing your shot.
NIKON D800E + 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 90mm, ISO 200, 1/250, f/8.0

Why the Need to Recompose?

Normally, most people do not bother with recomposing their shots when using modern digital
cameras. Many DSLR cameras, even the most basic entry-level models come with a bunch of
focus points, which are scattered across the viewfinder, as seen in the below image:
When composing a shot, the easiest thing to do is typically to move the focus point to the desired
area of the viewfinder (where the subject is placed), acquire focus and then take a picture. But
therein lies a typical problem – the focus point is often too small to cover the area of interest or it
might not be where you want it. Take another look at the above viewfinder – you are forced to
place your subject where the pre-defined 11 focus points are.

But what if you wanted more flexibility and if you wanted to move your subject freely anywhere
in the frame? Sure, higher-end cameras have a lot more focus points to work with in situations
like this, but they rarely cover the entire frame, because of the limits of the camera’s phase-
detection system. Sometimes having too many focus points might slow you down as well when
recomposing your shots, since you have to move the focus points so much.

In addition to this, the center focus point is always the most accurate in all DSLRs, as I pointed
out in my article on taking sharp photos. This means that when light conditions are poor, your
only choice to get acceptably sharp images might be to use the center focus point. If you have
done some low-light photography, you will relate to this, as I am sure you can remember how the
lens goes back and forth “hunting” for focus when using corner focus points. Here is an image,
which was shot in an extremely dark environment:

NIKON D800E + 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 24mm, ISO 400, 1/100, f/5.6

The subject is tack sharp. I had to manually pre-focus on my subject with the center focus point
with the help of the camera’s AF assist beam (no other focus point could get accurate focus),
then I fired a flash behind the subject with a blue gel to get the above effect.
So for these kinds of situations, being able to first focus and then recompose your shots can make
a huge difference. If the technique is done right, you do not have to worry about too much post-
processing and cropping just to get a better composition – you can do it right using your camera
and this technique.

Focusing and Recomposing Methods

There are several ways to focus and recompose your shots. Let’s go over each method and look
at its advantages and disadvantages. Please keep in mind that I am assuming that your camera
and lens are set to autofocus. The below instructions will not work in manual focus mode.

Single Servo Focus Method

The first, and the easiest way, is to set your camera to Single Servo or “AF-S” autofocus mode.
When your camera is set to Single Servo mode, it will only acquire focus once when you half-
press the shutter button. While leaving the focus point in the center, point your camera at your
subject, lock focus by half-pressing the shutter release button, and wait for the camera to confirm
it (either with a beep or with an in-focus indicator), then recompose and take a picture. If your
camera refuses to take a picture, it means that it is set to “Focus” release mode. Just go to the
camera menu and set it to “Release” in AF-S / Single Servo mode and it should be able to fire no
matter where you point it.

This method works great on most cameras, but it requires to have your camera set to the Single
Servo / AF-S mode. If you shoot with an entry-level Nikon DSLR, then the default AF-A mode
should also work great, as long as your subject is not moving. If you want to be able to lock
focus in any autofocus mode, see the next method.
 NIKON D3S + 50mm f/1.8
@ 50mm, ISO 250, 1/500, f/2.8

Autofocus Lock Method

Almost every modern interchangeable lens digital camera, including entry-level models, comes
with a button on the back of the camera that is dedicated to locking the camera exposure and
autofocus. On Nikon cameras, this button is called “AE-L / AF-L” and you will find it on
practically every camera model. By default, the button is programmed to lock both exposure and
focus, which would work great for the focus and recompose technique.
Without worrying about which autofocus mode your camera is in, you simply focus on your
subject by half-pressing the shutter button, then after focus is confirmed, you press and hold the
AE-L / AF-L button on the back of the camera while continuing to half-press the shutter. Then
you recompose your shot and take a picture (continue to hold both buttons). Doing this will
achieve two things – your exposure will get locked and will not change (which can be very
useful when photographing people in challenging light) and your focus will stay on the subject.

NIKON D700 + 50mm f/1.4 @ 50mm, ISO 1600, 1/640, f/2.0

The only thing you have to make sure is that this button is actually programmed to lock exposure
and focus. On some camera models, it might not be able to do both. On all Nikon DSLRs, the
AE-L / AF-L is set to do this by default. However, if the above method does not work for you,
you might have to look at the menu settings. See my “Nikon AE-L/AF-L button” article for more
information on this.

AF-ON / Back Button Method

The last method, which I personally prefer over the first two, is to program a button on the back
of the camera to acquire focus – a technique known as “Back-Button Focus“. By moving the
focusing function of the camera to this button, you eliminate the need to half-press the shutter
button when acquiring focus – the shutter button is only used to actually take pictures.

This works great for me because I do not have to constantly think about pressing the Autofocus
lock button or being in Single Servo mode. On top of that, I do not have to keep half-pressing the
shutter button, which I might accidentally trigger. And it works great for focusing and
recomposing your shots.

NIKON D700 + 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 @ 24mm, ISO 800, 1/50, f/5.6

Again, all modern DSLRs and mirrorless cameras can do this. If you have a high-end digital
camera, you might have an “AF-ON” button on its rear where your thumb can reach it. The “AF-
ON” button can be configured in the camera menu to move the focus function to it.

First, make sure that you are in a single AF mode – you should be able to move the focus points
in your viewfinder. Next, go to the “Custom Setting Menu” -> “Autofocus”, then find the menu
item “AF Activation”. Change it to “AF-ON only”. Once set, try half-pressing the shutter button
– it will do nothing. But as soon as you press the AF-ON button with your thumb, the camera
will start acquiring focus.

If you have an entry-level Nikon camera, it might not have a dedicated AF-ON button. However,
don’t be disappointed, because the same “AE-L / AF-L” button I talked about before can be
configured to do the same thing:
The setting is located in a different menu location. Go to the “Custom Setting Menu” ->
“Controls” -> “Assign AE-L/AF-L button” or to “Setup Menu” -> “Buttons” and you will see an
option that says “AF-ON”. Just choose that option and press OK. Once done, test by half-
pressing the shutter button first – it should not attempt to acquire focus. Next, press the
AE-L/AF-L button and the camera should start autofocusing.

We go through many other camera brands in our back-button focusing article, so make sure to
check it out.

Once you move the focus function to this back button, here is how to use it:

1. Use the focus point selector and place the desired focus point on your subject
2. Press the AF-ON / Back button with your thumb to acquire focus
3. Release the AF-ON / Back button to keep and lock focus where it is
4. Recompose your shot and take a picture

Potential Focus Issues

One thing you always have to keep in mind when using this technique is that you mind end up
with badly focused images when recomposing aggressively, shooting at very large apertures and
close distances. Remember, your focus plane shifts when you recompose, so if you have a very
shallow depth of field and you are standing too close to your subject, recomposing too much
could result in a soft-looking / defocused subject.

If you cannot get a sharp image, try to keep the focus point as close to the subject as possible and
then recompose a little. Less shift means less change in the focus plane. If you shoot with long-
lenses over long distances, you do not have to worry about this as much. Here is an example of
the technique, where I used the center focus point to focus on my subjects on the right (using the
AF-ON button), after which I recomposed the image to include the two models on the left:
NIKON D3S + 300mm f/4 @ 300mm, ISO 400, 1/640, f/4.0