PATTERN MAGIC Making a pattern Clothes are a way of expressing oneself, T'm often inspired by fashions of the past. I try drafting the patterns myself, and sometimes come up with designs that are entirely my own. ont nmenit contrast ereated by light and shade. Make an easy-to-drafe lat pattern for a draped design that is usually produced by pinning and three-dimensional cutting of fabric. A right and left intersecting whislpool drape has been inserted into the stoper bodice. Haas He 250m © insert wat drs so that the bodice fed inthe waist aren. The @ Divide AB the ads ofthe cic, nt four equal sections and feciee font darts ae dosed when cling and opening out the daped insert he eating ae opening out nes. Dv the patie above and rea Thecente ofthe raped areal expresed on the dasing by below Geto pands @) and respective, aie, comideng the bulk crete by he ayers of fabri. The ne oonectng (BG) the design ie for making the ol aSimple draped design (without twisting the fabric) Intersect the left and right bodice panels through the hole and create the draped design. The larger the more relaxed the design will be, and conversely, the smaller the circle, the sharper the design, (© cioe dusts on ath pare @ and and cat ar open out tthe stance bebvcen and becomes zm nthe ce. Align pane @ Tomste te hole decide where te smiled anda 1B) ‘ise seam © Sew togetner the ates beeen to B on one Boe pane © rset the otter bicep! inate ole you have mde ad sew ‘Se the centre otra the endo the seam to the hem, 6ng ofthe left and right bodice panels is the same as on the simple draped design bodice, the adding of one twist keeps the fabric in place, thereby showing the modulations in the design. Remember that the underside of the fabric will appear at the front. The ba plterm ithe same a forthe simple draped cain bodice Divide the atte above and bow @~E int panels © and © respectively. Reyes pana to ad oe st. The unde | sie ofthe fabri apps on the ace side | ‘Change the postion where panes @ and © Inet as shown nthe eng Amhoeline © cose tie ats on bath parts @ and @ and cut and open out the area between pons and (em in ths cs. ‘gn points and adda smoot, corincus ins the hol docie whee the sear il end nd cal a{© wher the pate hs en revered © Revere one half the bode and sew between © and BD. (© tat the thera ofthe bose into the hale and ist. 0 Sew tom © to\B on the thera fthe bode. Sethe centre front and ror he eam end to he hem, Bcave ofthe Buk ofthe fabric mak the ole omeuha! age and adit ate asembling 6‘A dress made from silk crépe for more formal occasions. The draped design around the chest is created with a technique that does not involve twisting and maximizes the soft, bilowy fabric.Forte bade back ons 1 axcx| Endl it » V crerrsiiee sem sem! ‘som | fit. + End of. ee He 20m’ a : | 65cm | pack FRONT , os © Bex the neces wie, move the shoulder drs tothe Dirge the aus ofthe oc forthe ape on te bode panel Forte skit pattern, daw ustone cating and opening ine facing the ond ofthe das © on tne bose tot, he sd of BC) into the dat andopen out. Then ‘ove te dats on and open ou the centre ont with and as shown Sear mG upto the end ofthe seam cross de and sew th a romp to he end ‘ent andtheeore not au the opening ots you, seit own athe back acwist a fabric s narrower and shorter, and when you release it, it returns to normal Ina different way from a garment that has a furrowed drape produced by techniques such as changing the position of the left and right sleeves, this patter has been manipulated so tha the fabric is twisted round and round like a spiral, Theoretically speaking, when ‘ais twisted, measurement « becomes shorter. However, as the fabric in realty, be even shorter. will ook ike that inthe drawing on the right, the measurement wi ‘As the fabric will attempt to release the twist, reduce the ease in the hips to fit precisely. {A design that incorporates elastic tape or a band to keep the hemline in position and prevent the fabric from returning to normal, is best. As twisting makes the waist narrower, be careful not to reduce too much at the waist. As nejiris not a natural form of the fabric, it will be easier if you use a fabric that has high stretchabiity rote, 202 | Astoisting makes the gament shorter, ems Been add to the length “he wat has buen tte ht cyThree nejiri patterns {As twisting the fabric changes the shape of the neckline and the armhole in a complex way, here the fabric has been twisted only around the waist. Twist horizontally = ‘ae tem = aa ieem a= ion © Weve to cerve by a measrerenteqalt inthe oppose deco ofthe twist you want orate nthe fbi {© wove bath side seam nes Notzontly a shown he dawn nhs case Oem), (© esr ne te sear ines o connect he comer the moe ana the wet an ni Twist perpendicularly (© Maripuote te centre font and centre bck onthe pate bya messteent equ ta hs ease sem) ina verte dreton oppo otha ofthe twit you want to create nthe fa €@ fast the ines forthe eckine athe ee °Twist both horizontally and perp Making the fabric tt hozontaly and perpen athe same tin ci, So manip the horse patter ving the ptt tht ha aad Bsn manpusted vey Rear you ve a versely manutd pater n whch the hemline as notyet been adsted. Adjust the ern athe ed 7