Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.

org

travelfish ko phi phi

November 2009
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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org

Ko Phi Phi
Ko Phi Phi, or Phi Phi Island, is one of the most talked about places in Southeast Asia, with its natural beauty and reputation for good times putting it firmly on the tourist trail. The beauty of the island is unparalleled, even in a region of the world renowned for its stunning destinations. Limestone cliffs, turquoise waters, white sand beaches and miles of trackless forest make Phi Phi a perfect tropical island. Developments over the past 20 years however have made it the subject of great controversy. Those who wanted to preserve its natural character have been pitched against those who wanted to make it a world-class holiday destination, and profit financially from the trade. To understand the dispute, imagine what the island was like more than two decades ago when it was first 'discovered' by adventurous backpackers looking for Eden on earth. They found it on Ko Phi Phi Don -- a long, wide sand bar gracefully arching between two magnificent islands, Ko Nai and Ko Nawk, creating two placid bays ideal for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving, surrounded by cliffs waiting to be climbed and forests to be explored. Back then only a scattering of bungalows dotted the island, which was populated mostly by a community of sea-faring gypsies who call themselves the Chao Ko, or Island People. There was no pier and a weekly public boat made scheduled trips to the island.

ing trips, boats for hire, places to stay and bars to drink at. Those who remember what it once was, and what it could have been, find it impossible not to shed a tear when they see the place today. It exists, after all, on what is partially national park land. Thailand might have created a wellmanaged park with walking trails, rockclimbing, caving, unspoiled diving and snorkelling sites. From that perspective, it is a paradise lost.

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The checkered history of Ko Phi Phi took a tragic turn in 2004 when the Asian tsunami lashed its shores. In the wake of the devastation, the balance of power seemed to shift as plans were revived to assert government control of the island and restore its status as a national park, allowing only careful and controlled development. But local land owners saw this as a land grab by parties within the Thai government. The government's plans were thwarted and private industry rebuilt, reinvested, and expanded the island's infrastructure. And they did so in short order, considering the enormity of the task and a lack of any government relief. Private development picked up where it left off before the tsunami and shows no intention of changing course.
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But the paradox in seeking out a hidden paradise is that it winds up on the map and others begin to seek it out, too -in ever-increasing numbers. The onceidyllic Ton Sai beach became a port, clogged with boats and debris, with a pier to accommodate the large vessels needed to bring the growing number of visitors to shore. The sandy isthmus is almost unrecognisable now, blanketed with guesthouses, luxury hotels, bars, restaurants, tailors, internet cafes, travel agents, banks, CD shops, jewellery stalls and clothing markets. Tourists are hounded by Thais and resident foreigners alike touting div-

On the bright side, the island has been cleaned up considerably from the festering sore it was a decade ago, when construction marred much of it and filth covered the beaches. Thanks to a growing awareness of green issues and the tsunami itself, today the sand and waters are fairly clean, there are no private cars or macadam roads, and no plans to introduce any. A few dozens saleangs -- motorcycles with side cars -- pick their way over sand and dirt roads, transporting passengers and their bags to their hotel when they first arrive, but they are mostly used for getting goods and equipment from here to there. Other than that, modes of transport are limited to push carts, bicycles and flip-flops. The bikes are becoming increasingly annoying on Phi Phi's narrow lanes, with many oblivious to pedestrians. Accidents are waiting to happen.

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But the blame doesn't rest solely with foreign tourists. The Western world has been paving paradise and putting up parking lots for a long time before Thailand got into the game and can hardly take the moral high ground. Whatever one may wish had been done with Ko Phi Phi, the balance of forces in Thai government and society have developed the island as a fairly affordable resort destination for holidaymakers from around the world

As before the tsunami, Ton Sai village occupies a large chunk of the isthmus, acting as an open-air shopping mall. Along Ton Sai beach, half-a-dozen bars blast pop music out over the water, serve pricey drinks and provide fire shows into the wee hours of the night. Though on average it's more expensive than many other Thai islands, it's still remarkably cheaper than similar options in other premier destinations around the world. Try finding a decent room in Hawaii or San Tropez for 10 dollars a night.
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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org Recently the beachside parties have been getting larger, with the noise pollution keeping those nearby awake until 04:00 or 05:00. This has become a serious issue for hut operations around the beach area on Ao Loh Dalam. The licensing laws governing alcohol sales simply do not apply to some bars and outfits -- those that are well connected, local advice suggests. Many travellers do end up changing accommodation or having miserable stays. Despite the touts and the crowds, Ton Sai village remains just what many vacationers are looking for in a fun, memorable holiday. And in terms of the unspoilt tropical paradise the island once was, the good news for the keepers of the flame is that it has not died out completely. Ko Phi Phi Don's sister island, Ko Phi Phi Leh remains completely untouched, being only available for daytrips by boat -- though many now complain that the inundation by daytrippers spoils the place in an only slightly less regrettable way. But there's more: between Ton Sai and Laem Thong, at the northern tip of the island, are a half-dozen beaches, many accessible only by boat, offering an escape from the maddening crowds. There you'll find accommodation ranging from dirt cheap spots through to some of the most exquisite luxury spots in Thailand. And Chao Ko still live out on Laem Thong, running local shops alongside the fancy resorts, selling food and drink at local prices. Even within walking distance of Ton Sai village, inland towards the northern part of the isthmus, are a great variety of places to stay where you can easily forget all about the mall's dubious attractions. Todays Phi Phi can be summed up as a place with plenty of choice, a vibrant nightlife and an island which still retains its natural beauty -- all at a price though. The crowds will irk some, the prices will make many cringe and the disappearance of the Thai smile may be upsetting, but overall Phi Phi remains a must-see destination.

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Ko Phi Phi & surrounds

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September and October are the wettest months, but the rains are rarely all-day torrential affairs. Instead rainy season is characterised by short but heavy downpours spread across the day. The weather is hot, humid and wet. Diving suffers with the rain and rougher seas reduce visibility. The most popular time to visit Ko Phi Phi is between November and February. This is after the end of the wet season, but before things begin to really heat up in March. Ko Phi Phis peak season is across December and January when many of the better hotels and resorts operate at capacity and even the cheap dumps fill up. While youll almost always be able to find a room somewhere, across the peak season of Christmas and New Year the island is full. Reservations, made well in advance, are the only way of guaranteeing a room. If youre thinking of showing up on New Years Eve and picking up a beachfront bungalow for under 600 baht think again!

Ko Phi Phi Hospital T: (089) 866 4733. Open 24 hours. Phuket International Hospital 2/1 Hongyok Utis Rd, Phuket Town T: 1719, (076) 254 425 F: (076) 254 597 www.phukethospital.com Bangkok Phuket Hospital 44 Chalerm Phra Kiat Ror 9 Rd Phuket Town T: (076) 249 400 F: (076) 210 936 www.phuket-international-hospital.com Police The real police are on the mainland and visit occasionally to shake up the local pot dealers and DVD pirates, but theres a blink-and-youll-miss-it police box along Ton Sai beach between Carlitos and Apache. The cops here are friendly and laid back, but limited English is spoken. Crimes against travellers are rare so you probably wont need to chat anyway.

Resources

Aside from Travelfish, a couple of other Emergency good online resources include: The staff at Ko Phi Phi Hospital seem contezzasthaiinfo.blogspot.com fident of handling any emergencies that www.phi-phi.com might come up -- very serious cases can be taken to Phuket by an emergency speedboat on 24-hour standby and then When to go Set on the southwest coast of Thailand, by ambulance to Bangkok-Phuket HospiKo Phi Phi has a predictable monsoon cli- tal in Phuket Town in two hours. mate. The northeast monsoon brings the dry in November and the southwest the wet in mid- to late April.

Common needs
Visas Causing great dismay among the many foreigners who live on Ko Phi Phi, there is no immigration office on the island, so youll need to head to Krabi or Phuket for all your visa extension needs. Banks Bank of Ayudhya has an international access ATM on the island and exchange kiosks are scattered around Ton Sai village. 3

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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org GPO The post office is located on a side street across from Mosquito Divers in Ton Sai village. Postal rates from Ko Phi Phi are no more expensive than from the mainland, but delivery may take a little longer. Books There are no book stores per se on Ko Phi Phi, but a few places in Ton Sai village offer book exchanges. Internet and telecommunications Internet joints all charge a flat rate of 2 baht per minute. WiFi hotspots can be found at Sports Bar, Carpe Diem and other areas. Theres no CAT office, but long-distance telephone services are offered throughout Ton Sai village. Krabi, Ao Nang and Ko Lanta. Both prices Joint bus/boat tickets and departure times listed below are sub- Joint boat/bus tickets can be quite a good ject to change. deal from Phi Phi. Buses wait for passengers at the pier, so dont fret if your boat is To/from Phuket late. Sample destinations include Ko The price to and from Phuket is 300 baht. Samui eight hours, Ko Pha Ngan nine Boats leave Phuket at 08:30, 13:30 and 14:30 hours, Bangkok 16 hours, Penang 11 hours, from Ratsada Pier, with the journey last- Kuala Lumpur 21 hours and Singapore 26 ing 90 minutes. In the reverse direction, hours. boats leave Phi Phi at 09:00 and 14:30. Shop around for prices, as youll encounTo/from Krabi ter quite a bit of variation between differThe price to and from Krabi is 300 baht. ent agencies. Boats leave Krabi at 10:00 and 15:00 and the journey takes 90 minutes. The ferry Getting around port is about 5km out of Krabi town so Motorcycle and car rentals most operators will collect you from your These are out of the question on this accommodation/booking office in Krabi roadless island, but you can hustle up a (usually about 45 to 60 minutes before bicycle rental for about 150 baht per day departure time). Boats leave Phi Phi at - most people dont bother. 08:00, 10:00 and 14:30, although in the low season this may be reduced to two serv- Boats ices a day. Youre on an island and its all about boats. To/from Ao Nang The price to and from Ao Nang is 400 baht. One boat a day leaves Ao Nang at 09:00 and takes 60 minutes. In the reverse, a boat leaves Ko Phi Phi at 15:30. To/from Ko Lanta The price to and from Ko Lanta is 350 baht. Boats leave Ko Lanta at 08:30 and 13:00 (high season only) and take 90 minutes. Boats leave Ko Phi Phi at 11:30, 14:00, and 15:00. Youll be solicited 100 times a day by boatmen hoping to take you here, there and anywhere. Of course, when you actually want to go somewhere, theyre never around. A longtail for a one-day charter costs about 1,800 baht, a speedboat is 7,000 baht. You can set your own itinerary, but be aware that some bays are difficult to access at certain times of day.

Arriving and departing

Air The closest airports to Ko Phi Phi are Phuket and Krabi. Both are international airports, but Phuket has a far higher frequency of both domestic and international flights. All Thai domestic carriers fly to both airports. Check their websites for detailed pricing and schedule information. If you don't want to get a ferry to Phi Phi, Destination Air uses small seaplanes to fly direct from Phuket to the island -- the flight takes about 16 minutes.
www.destinationair.com

Boat Boats to Ko Phi Phi leave from Phuket,

Manage your expectations

As you read through the travellers accommodation reviews in this Travelfish Guide, youll probably notice that a good deal of them are negative. You do not get what you pay for Ko Phi Phis accommodation is roughly double the price youll pay elsewhere for the same standard. The cheaper options, especially anything under 500 baht per Possibly more so than anywhere else night, will be pretty dire. Watch out for in Thailand, vast numbers of travellers theft, both from your room, and person. arrive on Ko Phi Phi with unrealistic Try to stay in control. Drink six buckets expectations of what the island is like. and you wont need a thief to help you lose stuff! As we mentioned in the introduction, this small island faces all the usual chal- Beachfront, seaview, garden view lenges that confront over-popularised When a resort says beachfront, they ofdestinations around the world, but no- ten just mean a room that you can see the where is this more evident than in the water from. Seaview may mean you need to stand on your toes and peer around accommodation. the corner to catch a sliver of aqua. GarKeep the following points in mind when den-view is a catch-all for near everything making up a shortlist. Hopefully theyll else -- including the bamboo shack at the help to manage your expectations and back of the resort between the toilet block and generator. If youre concerned, ask for make your stay more enjoyable. a resort map before booking. Service will not be commensurate with price Unless youre at one of the very top resorts, such as Zeavola or Phi Phi Island Village, dont expect good service just because youre paying $200 a night. This is especially the case in attached restaurants. The standard of service tends to swing between awful and appalling. Litter is a problem Litter is one of the most complained about aspects of Phi Phi. If it really bothers you, rustle up some people for a collection and do something about it. Noise is a major problem Late night parties, often running till 04:00 or 05:00 are a massive headache. If youre a light sleeper, we recommend packing earplugs and picking lodgings well away from the Ao Loh Dalam area.
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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org

Accommodation
As a general rule, the further you get away from Ton Sai pier and Ton Sai beach, the better value for money youll find. Within the village are a dozen spots that are cramped, overpriced, or both. Starting at the northernmost bay on the east coast, Laem Thong, and working from there clockwise, there are seven stunning bays, the last being Long Beach. Each offers something different, from squeaky white sand to chalet bungalows.

If that doesn't sound like your cup of tea and you're more looking for action, then the central area situated between Ton Sai and Lo Dalam offers a bit of everything. Here you'll find hotels, moderate guest houses and flop houses. Add into the mix a couple of dozen bars, hundreds of shops, and a plethora of eateries and you'll start to get the picture. Within this area, much better deals can be found along Soi Viewpoint and along the road that leads past the constructed wetlands from the Ao Lo Dalam side to the Ton Sai side.

None of the accommodation choices along Ton Sai beach are particularly stellar, but the real secret to enjoying Phi Phi Island is to head even further along the coast to the bays and beaches on the far side, then round the tip of Ko Nai and up along the shore stretching northwest to Laem Thong -- along the way are some great bungalow outfits and luxury resorts. Our coverage starts at Ao Loh Dalam, followed by the Ton Sai village, Soi Viewpoint, Ton Sai Beach and out to Long Beach. It then runs up the east coast, starting at Ao Poh and finishing at Laem Thong.

Ao Loh Dalam
Ao Loh Dalam was ground zero for the tsunami on Phi Phi, with the majority of bungalows and rooms obliterated. After the tsunami, wrangling and politics slowed down redevelopment, however rebuilding did start and gathered pace until recently when things slowed a little. The majority of the western end of the beach has now been fully restored as the mighty Cabana, stretching oodles of square metres and encompassing an enormous pool. Any smaller outfits which were in this area seem to be no longer, out of cash or sold up. The central and eastern areas still have some charms on offer, a handful of places with huts ranging from 300 to 3,000 baht, allowing for a friendly cosmopolitan crowd to populate the small beach bars. Charlie's and Princess seem to have combined forces and built larger hotel style rooms rather than bungalows. They have also completed construction on a new shopping court on the Viewpoint Road. This shopping court was delayed for a few years, apparently due to planning permissions being removed because the owner didn't comply with sewage regulations. The owner was also made to downscale his building from three floors to two (in line with all plans for Phi Phi, but some are more equal than others). The newly finished building creates a whole new shopping avenue and bar district. Lo Dalam is generally quite swimmable, although at low tide you might have to wade a few hundred metres before you find water deep enough to properly swim. Unfortunately as with anywhere that's heavily populated there is an element of garbage which makes its way to the sea;

fortunately plastic bags can't sting or bite so if you see one floating around, simply scoop it out and pop it in the bins which dot the beach. We hear unconfirmed rumours that raw sewage is being pumped into the water, although with the new sewage treatment plant this will hopefully become a thing of the past.

of the day, so ensure you grab your spot early. The competent Flamingo restaurant is attached to the resort, which while not the cheapest, certainly delivers in the flavour department. A highly recommended spot for couples. One bonus is that this resort is set back from the beach a little so that evening beach party noise pollution is minimised.

A few boats zip around here with inflatable bananas, while wake boarding and A haven for singles 8/10 paragliding is on offer as well. A large area PP Casita is in a good location close to Ao Lo Dalam (the main party beach) with a great pool right at the centre of the beach has been and fantastic breakfast buffet. The bungalows are roped off for children. The sea here has well designed and comfortable, each with a cute also been cleared of any small rocks. The front balcony. The resort is huge but does not nightly waste which is dumped on the detract from the intimate bungalow atmosphere. When we were there the place was crawling with beach from revellers at Slinkies, Ibiza and gappers and singles. If possible try to bargain down Apache bars is a concern, but the authori- the hawkers on the wharf; we got a significant ties have made an effort to ensure the bars discount. 7/2009 do a little cleaning for those who get up PP Princess and Charlie Beach Resort early to enjoy the beach. A good place to stay 7/10 Ao Loh Dalam PP Casita T: (075) 601 166 F: (075) 601 167 Huge but competent 8/10 Between Ao Loh Dalam and Soi Viewpoint info@ppcharlie.com www.ppcharlie.com T: (075) 601 214 F: (075) 601 261 1,490 - 2,990B info@phiphi-hotel.com Before the tsunami, PP Charlie was a popuwww.phiphi-hotel.com lar spot with about 30 bungalows right on 1,500 - 2,700B The website and e-mail are not working the water. Of course, they were all deat present, although the staff are adamant stroyed and since then Charlie has comthat they are correct. That aside, PP Casita bined with the PP Princess to offer hotel is a maze of different types of rooms, rang- style accommodation at higher rates, with ing from small cosy bungalows to larger a longhouse set back about 100 metres chalets, along with classy rooms in a ho- from the beach that survived the cataclysm. tel-like block structure. Staff are ultra-ef- The first-floor rooms had their walls comficient, speak good English and will be pletely blown out, but the structure rehappy to show you several rooms, all of mained intact, and they've fixed up the which are particularly clean and present- rooms to create some very serviceable fan able. All are air-con, have good beds, styl- and air-con doubles offered at good prices. ish but small bathrooms, and mini decks Unlike their neighbour, Palm Resort, they with a smattering of garden surrounds. didn't rush to slap together some rickety Most of the rooms are in close vicinity to piles of bamboo as a stop-gap. The plans the swimming pool which is quite the envy to rebuild the bungalows are on hold. of the surrounding resorts with its suave Without the bungalows of pre-tsunami infinity edge and flashy sun loungers. The years, this resort has lost a little of its flapool does seem to be packed at all times vour, however it is still a good place to 5

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org stay, close to the heart of the action. The a hell of a lot. Notwithstanding, this may prices have risen sharply, but rooms are be just what you're looking for in a cheap, of a high standard. right-on-the-beach bungalow on Phi Phi -- a place to conk out after finishing up a Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort day of sunbathing and having your fill at High on the hill - great views 7/10 one of the beachside bars. The other op107 Moo 7 Ao Loh Dalam tion is the newer, concrete air-con rooms. T: (075) 622 351 F: (075) 622 351 The standard is considerably higher than info@phiphiviewpoint.com the bamboo neighbours. The air-con www.phiphiviewpoint.com rooms come with TV and new bathrooms. 900 - 3,600B The drawback of the Twin Palms is the Located at the far end of the beach, about loud music that fills the air until late at a 10 minute walk from the beach itself, night (or early morning -- maybe 5am in this resort is a little secluded but still close the high season), so don't count on getting enough to town and the action. Because to bed early. Popular with young traveller of their vantage point high on the hill, all folk who want to leave the world behind, the rooms here survived the tsunami in- but with a large group of those similarly tact and the resort reopened shortly after inclined and to a throbbing dance-music the event. Some of them are way, way high sound track. The staff are rather lazy (they up on the hill, especially the fan rooms -- really couldn't be bothered to answer our it's a long, hot walk to get to them, but the questions) and the service is a little 'reviews down and over the bay more than laxed'. Stay here only if you love the proxcompensate. The grounds are largely un- imity to the beach and the Ibiza beach party tended. The air-con bungalows closer to scene. the base of the hill have very ugly entranceways dominated by buzzing air-con units, Phi Phi Island Cabana Hotel but all the rooms here are clean, fresh and Modern luxury and a giant pool 7/10 comfy. The air-con rooms have TVs and Ao Loh Dalam, 58, Moo 7 fridges while the balconies still have great T: (075) 601 170-7 F: (075) 601 178 views. The beachside infinity-edge pool reservations@phiphi-cabana.com was built before the tsunami and also sur- www.phiphi.cabana.com vived -- it'll cost you to swim here if you 2,800 - 8,500B bring a friend or you're not a guest. Be- The Cabana certainly breaks local buildside the pool is a dive shop which can or- ing regulations because of its size, and ganise boat trips and provide snorkelling you'll either love it or hate it. On the plus info. Also here is a good bar and restau- side, it has a stunning pool which wouldn't rant run by an Irish guy. The Baileys Oreo look out of place at SeaWorld it's that big, Shakes are highly recommended. gorgeous rooms with cracking sea views, and a plethora of fine dining options culPP Twin Palm Bungalows minating with their awesome seafood resCheap and right on the beach 7/10 taurant, Maya, which while not cheap Ao Lo Dalam serves excellent fare. On the downside, it's T: (081) 423 5476, (075) 601 285 huge, garish, made from block cement, phiphitwinpalms@yahoo.com and the only hotel you can spot from the www.phiphitwinpalms.com ocean. Whereas the other accommoda500 - 1,900B tion on Phi Phi leans to the subtle, Cabana PP Twin Palms have been gradually up- is in your face and proud. Families who dating their accommodation since the usually holiday in Spain will no doubt lap rushed post-tsunami rebuild. Two types up the great service and facilities at a fracof accommodation are available. First are tion of the cost of Europe, but those more very basic wooden bungalows, which were road-weary travellers searching for quiet thrown up in a hurry, rather brazenly close culture will be best steering well clear of to the water. All have room for a bed and this behemoth. The rooms are of good a fan, and that's it. The mosquito netting size, the vast majority of them corner units is already in bad shape in some of the bun- which offer awesome views of Loh Dalam galows -- check it out carefully before you bay. Fine white linens and polished wood accept. You can't stand up in the bunga- floors are complemented by some modlows, and they are a bit tricky to get around ern Lanna fabrics and artwork. Some in, with small porches that all have ham- rooms have a Jacuzzi on the balcony. Famocks you have to climb over to get cilities include minibar, air-con, hot water through the front door. If you share one and cable TV. The restaurants and bar arwith a partner, you'd better like each other eas often have live shows or bands playing in the evenings. There are also two tennis courts. The proximity to the pier is a bonus if you are a family struggling with luggage. Ciao Bella Cute huts with panache but loud 6/10 On the beach, Ao Loh Dalam T: (081) 894 1246 raoulb80@hotmail.com 1,400 - 3,900B Central to it all, Ciao Bella sits on prime beachfront land just beside PP Twin Palms. On offer are a handful of chic hexagonal bungalows, simple yet classic in design and made from gorgeous local hardwood. Each has air-con, hot water, and comfy beds with clean and stylish linens and decor. Owned and run by an Italian chef, a first class restaurant is of course also on site, serving Thai as well as Italian cuisine. At the business end of the resort, the beach, you'll find a laid back bar run by casual local rasta with chilled music by day and funky beats by night. They serve cocktails and shakes so it's an ideal sunset spot. The massive downside to the Ciao Bella is the noise -- simply put, it is deafening. The noise wars between Apache, Ibiza and Slinky's bars really do affect the folks who stay here. Staff are very apologetic, but there is little they can do. If you are not into the party scene,you should probably avoid this place.

Buckets on Phi Phi

A bucket is a bottle of booze poured into a bucket, with mixers and ice, to be communally slurped-up with straws. Cheap Thai whiskey is the norm, but there are all sorts available. Here are some notes on bucketing Buckets from new buddies Its a judgement call, but female travellers in particular should be very cautious about accepting buckets from new friends. Druggings and assaults are a problem on Phi Phi. Dont ever bucket alone. A bucket a day... Booze filled buckets can really knock you around and you will get very very drunk very very quickly. Stay in control and dont bucket on an empty belly. Buckets and boxing Need we even say this? Drinking a bucket then getting into a boxing ring is really stupid.

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org

Ton Sai village

Located on the narrow isthmus connecting the two islands comprising Ko Phi Phi -- Ko Nai and Ko Nawk -- this whole area was hit by a double whammy on tsunami day -- waves inundated the streets from both sides, and the water level rose to about three metres. But the destruction here was superficial compared to the places that were levelled on the beach itself -- most structures were left standing, if badly water damaged and in need of extensive renovation. About 90% of businesses rose quickly to the task of rebuilding and the only striking vestige of the tsunami is the street from town to the constructed wetlands project, which is still a muddy, unpaved mess. For the sake of simplicity, we've divided this area into two sections. Ton Sai village covers everything off the beach on the isthmus from the pier east to Tara Inn. East of Tara Inn is covered in the Soi viewpoint section. Staying in the town itself brings its own unique issues. Quite simply, until at least 02:00, the town parties. There has been a recent trend to hire travellers to hand out flyers and act as touts for various businesses. The authorities would frown upon this, but some of the locally connected Thaiowned businesses are doing the same thing (often with far more foreigners). If you like a party, like late night food, don't mind touts and can handle things with good grace then Ton Sai is the place for you -- it is the beating heart of Phi Phi and everything is here. Kinnaree House Great first impressions 8/10 Ton Sai village T: (081) 899 1691 F: (075) 601 138 kinnaree1@yahoo.com 1,100 - 2,400B Located on a sidestreet as you meander down to Ao Lo Dalam beach, this is one of only a handful of places that's actually located in the streets of Ton Sai village itself. Kinnaree bills itself as a boutique guesthouse and it makes a great first impression. Ceramic frangipanis stud the reception's concrete floor, and its bluepainted wooden facade stands out from surrounding monochromatic shophouses. Rooms are painted in eye-catching (or shocking) hues of purple, turquoise, tangerine, pink and lime green. Their decor is sleek and sophisticated contemporary Thai, with paintings and wood carvings in every room. Though very clean, most rooms are smallish, some made more so by walls painted in darker shades, and none of them have views of anything but

the walls of surrounding buildings. All come with international cable TV air-con, hot water and minibar. Breakfast is also included. Kinnaree is a short walk to the beach and metres from shops and restaurants. They also have a second outfit just around the corner which has similar offerings, down the small lane directly opposite the Irish Pub. The largest beach bars on Phi Phi are just around the corner, so some rooms may get noisy at night. Staff are great. They're usually booked solid through high season.

make us welcome. The Anderson is packed in at the end of a narrow alley in Ton Sai village, an anomalous little place that is half-hotel, half-guesthouse. Rooms are cramped, but they all have air-con, fridge, and TVs with DVD players -- as well as private baths. All rooms have optional air-con in the low season, but mandatory in the high. A lot of people seem to be willing to make the trade-off between space and extra comfort, so it's usually full. One set of rooms are located above a steakhouse, mainly serving Scandinavian crowds, and as such the rooms are often Jong Guesthouse taken by Swedes and Danes. These rooms A good guesthouse option 7/10 are accessed via a different restaurant's Just past Tara Inn cooking area which can be a worthwhile 650 - 1,200B adventure in itself. The second set of Walk along from the Tara Inn a few me- rooms, by the reception, are the newer. tres toward the beach and you will see, Watch out for the noise at night, as the tucked in to your right, the Jong Guest- Anderson is in the thick of the bar action. house. The Jong is really a cheaper end hotel but it's well designed and has an in- Price is the only plus! 5/10 viting reception. Rooms are bright, clean Prices on Ko Phi Phi are crazy! This was the cheapest we could find. We had a triple room (two and surprisingly large, all set back on the twin beds and a mattress on the floor) for 700 hill. The friendly staff speak excellent Eng- baht with air-con, but no TV nor a bar fridge. lish and the Jong experience is a good one. The girl in the reception was really nice and helpRooms have all got air-con, TV and hot ful and spoke very good English. The bathroom smelled bad. 8/2009 water. This is the place to stay if you are on a budget but are all bed-bugged out. Tara Inn Hotel H.C. Andersen Usually full 7/10 Ton Sai village T: (081) 298 2818 700 - 1,500B The reception to the Anderson is a little difficult to find, but it turns out to be the happiest reception desk in town. The staff were tripping over themselves trying to
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Friendly family-run spot 6/10 Ton Sai village T: (075) 601 021 Dorm 150B, 400 - 1,400B Tara Inn has been a big budget operation for many years. The tsunami rebuilding is complete and all things are back to business. The spacious rooms are moderate, but they're a tad dated and you kinda feel you could do better. They have good balAccommodation
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Phi Phi Island Cabana Hotel Chunut House Ciao Bella Garden Home Garden Inn Hotel H.C. Andersen JJ Bungalow JJ Guesthouse Jongs Guesthouse Kinnaree House New Wave Bungalows P.P. Valentine Bungalows PP Twin Palm Bungalows Phi Phi Hotel Phi Phi Inn Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort Phitharom PP Resort PP Casita PP Dream PP Princess and Charlie Beach Resort Tara Inn The Scenery Guest House Tropical Garden Bungalows Up Hill Bungalows

23

Soi Viewpoint
17 5 19 11 4 5 2 7

Ao Lo Dalam
C Q

3 13 P

20 I M 8 1 15 L

D9 21 10 6

12

Ton Sai village

O 14 3 N 2A H

Ton Sai Beach

F

1 4

Pier

0km 1km

Eat and meet

A B C D E F G H I Amico Pizza Apaches Bar Apache Bar (Lo Dalam side) Banana Sombrero Carlitos Carpe Diem GPPP HC Andersen Steak Hibaci J K L M N O P Q Hippies Bar Ibiza Bar Little Britain, Papaya and Reggae Bar Matt's Joint PP Bakery Sports Bar Tide & Time Slinky's Bar

Others
1 2 3 4 5 ATM Post Office 7-eleven Tourist police Water purification plant

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org

Travelfish accommodation picks

A lot of mediocre guesthouses and hotels are available on Ko Phi Phi, despite its popularity (or perhaps because of it). Booking in advance, sight-unseen, can often yield unpleasant surprises, but the alternatives aren't much more promising -- tramping around the island on your first day trying to find a decent spot, or trusting one of the touts who greets you at the pier. But never fear -- we've done the tramping for you. Garden Home has unique, creativelydesigned rooms in a small courtyard at the end of the viewpoint road. If you can live without a pool, this is an excellent option. The restaurant they run down the road also gets raves from regular customers. At the top of our list for budget spots with a pool, youll find Tropical Garden Bungalows. It's way up a hill at the end of the viewpoint road, but if you call in advance, they'll meet you at the pier and cart your stuff up for you. The bungalows here are beautifully made from natural wood, and provide a great atmosphere in a lush natural setting. The cherry on the cake is the pool at the top of the hill with a swim-up bar. The staff here get high marks, too. You'll pay more than you would at the cheapie places down at the bottom of the hill, but it's definitely worth the price. Another great bungalow outfit nearby is Chunut House -- along the road from Ao Lo Dalam to Ton Sai beach. It's on another hill, amid more lush greenery, some of which you'll find growing inside your room (on purpose, of course!) The bungalows here are even better than the ones at Tropical Garden, with day beds, good balconies and really fun jungle toilets. There is no pool, but they make up for that with their trademarked warm welcome. If youve got industrial strength earplugs and want to stay right in the asylum, theres a few well point you towards right in Ton Sai village. , The best of the slim pickings is probably Kinaree House, tucked at the end of an alley. The staff here are great and the rooms, though small, have a lot of sturdy, with lovely interiors in a nice amenities and a certain cosy charm. setting. The restaurant overlooks their private beach and is designed well for Another good option, close to the Tara just lounging about. Relax Beach can Inn is Jong Guesthouse. It certainly wont also be booked online. Thumbs up! win any design awards, but for functionality in the Village at under 1,000 baht a Finally a few very high-end places night, this is a good spot. would make it worth your while to travel to Phi Phi Island from anywhere If Ton Sai village is too far to stumble from in the world -- on your private yacht, Ao Lo Dalam, then JJ Bunaglows is the of course. best cheapie, while PP Casita is the flashpackers and gap-year travellers digs Phi Phi Island Village is the only place of choice. The latter has a swimming pool. to stay on Ao Bakao, and it's a gorBear in mind you wont be sleeping till late geous luxury resort that delivers on -- very late. what it promises. Even the standard rooms are sumptuous, with exquisite From Ton Sai village the beach runs out decor and unerring attention to detail. towards Long Beach and is dotted with a The freeform infinity pool is the larghandful of flashpacker orientated est and most beautiful on the island -outtposts. None are standouts. Chaokoh it features a huge built-in jacuzzi and a Phi Phi Lodge isnt bad, but it catches a swim up bar. fair bit of noise from the bars. Phi Phi Andaman Resort if furtehr away from the On Laem Thong beach, at the northracket and is clean, functional and very ern tip of Phi Phi, you'll find the popular. If theyre full try their similarly Zeavola. The open-plan bungalows named neighbour Phi Phi Andaman Bun- here are exceptionally luxurious, while galows. remaining well-integrated with the natural environment. The prices are Before the parties took off, Long Beach stratospheric, but it's a perfect setting was the backpackers haven. Prices have for couples or small families with lots crept up over the years, but Paradise Pear of disposable income. Bungalow remains hugely popular, while Long Beach Bungalows remains one of On the same beach is a more reasonthe cheapest options on the entire island - able mid-range place that is a great spot - though fair warning, you get what you for a family vacation: The Holiday Inn. pay for! Phi Phi The Beach and Phi Phi Yeah, that's right, the Holiday Inn. Its Hill are also worth mentioning, but they got a big pool and very decent hoteltend to get very good or very bad reviews... style bungalows that come equipped with extra beds. There's an excellent Not all that far from Long Beach, Ao Poh beach for the kids, and several other Resort proves the spirit of the budget shack resorts nearby offer a range of dining lives on -- though theyre being pretty options in the evenings. The staff here cheeky calling this joint a resort! are so relaxed and friendly, you'll completely forget you're being billeted by a Further up the east coast, Ao To Koh is a multi-billion dollar, multinational corlong-time favourite among those in the poration. The prices are reasonable for know, and it gets oodles of positive feed- what you get, and all the water sports back from Travelfish users. It's on a very and activities on offer are available free pretty private bay with really excellent to guests. snorkelling. The bungalows up on the hill are a bit boring, but the ones along the Bear in mind that if youre heading to water are definitely something to write Ko Phi Phi in peak season, reservations will be close to essential to get anything home about. even half reasonable. Our flashpacker Further along the coast again and offering choice for the entire island that can be a slightly more upscale version of the same booked online is Relax Beach Resort. experience is Relax Beach Resort on Pak Nam Beach. The bungalows here are quite Have fun!

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org conies but unfortunately there's zip shade around the area so unless you're some kind of Barry Manilow sun god the balcony is useless until after sunset. Bathrooms are fine. At the bottom of the hill they've constructed a whole row of shophouses. They have combined forces with Rock GH next door to some effect so they can offer cheap dorm rooms also. Staff are friendly and efficient. The location gives you a great feeling of being close to the beach and out of the melee in the village area. At night there is noise from the eternal beach parties and the roof-top bar at Banana Sombrero, but the noise isn't too obtrusive.
Cheap by Phi Phi standards 6/10 I stayed in a room at street level, with bathroom, cold shower, fan, throw-water-to-flush toilet, for 400 baht, which is cheap for Ko Phi Phi. 3/2009

village. The bungalows are similar to the ones at Palm, but are more spacious and well-maintained, and the quiet, low-key setting gives them a definite advantage. Another difference is the staff -- for one thing, they have them, and for another, they are quite friendly and helpful. There's a good bar and restaurant on site. Phi Phi Hotel What development on Phi Phi shouldn't be 5/10 129 Moo 7, Ton Sai village, Ko Phi Phi T: (075) 611 233 F: (075) 621 463 info@phiphi-hotel.com www.phiphi-hotel.com 1,870 - 3,000B The Phi Phi Hotel was badly damaged by the tsunami, but has rebuilt and reopened. The initial impression is that of a flash, high-class hotel, but on closer inspection - yikes! The cheaper rooms have no balconies and views of crummy alleys. The more expensive rooms have more amenities and big balconies with terracotta tile floors and great views but have absolutely no tables, chairs, sun-loungers or umbrellas, and are exposed to direct sunlight for most of the day. You could probably roast up some chapatis out there! They have a small, shabby, mouldy pool on the first floor. The building itself is completely inappropriate for the surroundings -- they recently circumvented local building ordinances forbidding high-rise development and added a fourth floor. The owner Garden Home Cream of the crop on the viewpoint Rd 8/10 Viewpoint Rd T: (081) 0894 3835 500 - 1,900B At the end of the long street leading from Ton Sai, Garden Home has hidden treasures. There's no pool, no view, and only limited rooms, but in every other way this place is the cream of the crop in terms of bungalows in the viewpoint area. Recent additional bungalows hasn't dampened the garden feel. Rooms are artistically designed and well-furnished with great attention to detail, and each one is unique. They are really quite beautiful, very clean, and have a great atmosphere (and some of the best jungle toilets we've seen, with funky open-air showers). Staff aim to please, providing fresh towels and maid service daily. It is easy to blow past this place on your way up the hill, but stop in and have a look. They also have a quaint restaurant around the corner from the huts serving excellent food, including homemade bakery products. Bagels come rec-

wanted to put a big neon sign on the top too, but they stopped short of allowing that. This place embodies much of what accommodation in general, and accommodation on Ko Phi Phi in particular, should not be. To add insult to injury, the Phi Phi Hotel has been busy raising its prices without raising its standards. Phi Phi Inn Adequate rooms 5/10 Ton Sai village T: (075) 601 186,(075) 601 184 phiphiinn@hotmail.com 1,000 - 1,800B Near to the pier and tucked down a street near the market, this place was just about wiped out by the tsunami, but it bounced back quickly and has been back to its old self for quite a while. Owned by the same family as nearby Pier Guesthouse, Phi Phi Inn is a slightly wealthier cousin, with pleasant hotel-style rooms with tiled floors, TVs, fridges, air-con and hot-water bathrooms. As with all the accommodation along Ton Sai, you're paying more for location than quality, but prices are competitive. Staff seem a bit surly but rooms are clean and well maintained. There is all sorts of information about the tsunami, its effects and ongoing efforts to help the local environment. The owners do really seem to care about the environment and community.

J.J. Bungalows and J.J. Guesthouse A good budget option 6/10 Ton Sai Village T: (075) 601 090-2 F: (075) 601 090 info@jjbungalow.com www.jjbungalow.com 400 - 1,200B Set back from Ao Lo Dalam a bit closer to the village, and tucked away at the end of a sidestreet, the guesthouse here survived the tsunami and was repaired. They added some thatch bungalows in a small yard out the back of the restaurant. The guesthouse has cheap, serviceable rooms with shared bathrooms -- probably one of the best options for a budget room in Ton Sai

Soi Viewpoint
These places are in the middle of the isthmus, but closer to Ao Lo Dalam than Ao Ton Sai. The area and the road aren't known by any specific name, but keep asking where the view point is and you'll be headed in the right direction. We call it Soi Viewpoint here, but we just made that up. On the way there from Ton Sai village you'll pass a triangular spot that's home to the wetlands area by the water treatment facility. Take the road to the left of the triangle. There are a gaggle of slap-dash, budget haunts in the area, most of which we can't recommend unless everything else is full. They all offer cramped doubles and some triples at competitive prices (around 300600 baht depending on the season), but you'll get no views, no pool and the atmosphere will range from charmingly eccentric to just plain seedy. All these places will typically knock 100 baht off the price when business is slow.

ommended. High season prices are reasonable, but this place does fill up quickly.
Recommended! 9/10 This place is 100% recommended. There are more bungalows now - fan or air-con and all are beautifully decorated to make it home away from home. We stayed here for around 15 days in total. A family run place, theyre ready to help, always kind and friendly. We were so glad we checked this place out on our way to Uphill! Just a three minute walk from Lo Dalam. Excellent. 5/2009

Tropical Garden Bungalows A great spot 8/10 Up the hill at the end of the viewpoint road T: (081) 968 1436,(089) 729 1436 tropicalgarden@phiphitravel.com www.thailandphiphitravel.com 700 - 1,500B Tropical Garden Bungalows are a great option for the Viewpoint area, getting the aesthetics of their teak bungalows just right. They're rustic without being too shabby, spacious and full of that 'bungalow in the jungle' atmosphere. The cheaper rooms have mattresses on the floor without bedframes, with very good mosquito netting 9

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org and bathrooms of the sunken-stonework variety. Some are rather high up on stilts, providing views of the small valley below from the balconies, which have hammocks. The more expensive rooms are at the top of the hill, right near the pool. They're nicely done, though the floors are quite bouncy and bendy. Prices aren't exactly cheap but it's a unique atmosphere. Only breakfast is served on premises, but the main attraction is the swim-up bar at the small pool, right behind the reception desk; unfortunately it is often empty due to island water shortages. There's also two baht-per-minute internet available. Staff get high marks from Travelfish users. Recommended.
Not bad, great pool 6/10 When I was there the pool was full and considering the heat, it was very nice. Some concerns: 1. The walls have small holes where mosquitos can get in. We stayed in two different bungalows and both mosquito nets were ripped. 2. The bathrooms are tiny and you have to sit sideways on the toilets. 3. There is no hot water in the bungalows and the water pressure is poor. 4. 1,000 baht a night is pretty steep for this place. 5. There was a beach party every night and the bass was pounding so loud you could hear everything, even at this location, until about 3am. Some good things:1. The pool was awesome. 2. I didn't see one person under 18. 3. The staff were friendly and cooperative. Not a bad place if you can handle the concerns. 2/2009

Chunut House A good spot 8/10 Ao Lo Dalam Ton Sai Road T: (081) 894 1026 chunuthouse@hotmail.com 700 - 2,300B The location isn't the greatest, but the welcome is warm and the manager is one of the most helpful people we ran into in this part of Phi Phi. Chunut's collection of wooden bungalows, located among stonework steps on the hillside, is just the kind of thing Ton Sai village needs but never seems to provide. The bungalows have beautiful interiors with lots of creative touches such as green things growing from sconces on the walls and raised platforms that are half-day bed for lounging, half mattress for sleeping. There are good jungle toilets as well. Some new air-con bungalows add value to their basic fan operations. The air-con bungalows come with TV and hot water. It's a pity they don't have a pool, but otherwise this place runs a close second to Tropical Garden, visible from here across the valley on the opposite hill. It's one of the few places on Phi Phi with a true guesthouse feel to it. All repairs and upgrades have been completed in the post-tsunami years and this place has become a Viewpoint favourite. Tucked away to the right side of the valley and up

on the side of the hill, it's about 10 min- development going on above it at the time utes' walk from the centre of Ton Sai and of writing in 2009) Scenery does offer a the beach. view, but the standard of accommodation is not the greatest on Phi Phi. The next Phitarom PP Resort place up the hill from Lux, it's a definite Stunningly secluded views 7/10 step up with clean, bright and spacious Ao Lo Dalam, Moo 7 rooms, featuring tiled floors and a bit of a T: (075) 601 121 F: (075) 601 123 better view, although most views are parphitharom@gmail.com tially obscured by trees. All rooms have www.phiphiresortphitharom.com fan and private bath but no hot water. Fine 1,900 - 4,600B if you're fit and healthy but if you plan on It's a long climb up a lot of steps to the hitting the bars, a place a little closer to the villas here and the views are great. The ground may suit you as the steps are steep! rooms have hardwood floors, fridges, satellite TV, safes and air-con, with reason- Garden Inn ably-sized balconies that offer little pri- Decent bungalows in a garden setting 6/10 vacy. Rooms are sizeable, with huge comfy Near the end of the Viewpoint Road beds and a pleasant bathroom, which in T: (089) 651 7194,(081) 787 4351 the luxury suites is larger than the average 650 - 2,200B backpacker bungalow alone. The staff are Located near the end of the viewpoint quite friendly and welcoming and the on- road at the base of the hill, this place is a site restaurant serves authentic Thai food. vast improvement over what you'll find A small pool is located at the heart of the on your way up the road. Garden Inn has resort. Phitarom is worth the money if you quite decent bungalows in a sort of a garare looking for that cool, traditional de- den spot. They have hardwood floors and sign feel. You can find good online deals to stay cool during the day. All have safes save a few bucks. Although it's not that and private baths. Some of the doubles cheap, the location is great and if you're have optional air-con. A few bungalows up for a splurge you could do far worse. have been added in recent years, and at The Super Deluxe rooms are higher up, the top end the bungalows are quite so therefore a slight workout as far as the smart. However, prices charged here are steps are concerned, but well worth the a tad high. Low season rates for the fan extra money as their balconies are far bungalows are reasonable, but prices rise more private. disproportionately for the higher bungalows and for the high season. Your stay Up Hill Bungalows will be in comfort and the staff are superSpacious and scenic 7/10 friendly, but you can get more bang for Up the hill at the end of the viewpoint road your buck elsewhere. T: (075) 601 1124 F: (086) 553 2316 uphillcottage@yahoo.com PP Valentine Bungalows 600 - 1,500B Good deal for the price 6/10 Though it's on the same hill as Tropical The Ao Lo Dalam Ton Sai Road Garden Bungalows, rooms at Up Hill have T: (081) 797 0201 less of a jungle feel, with white tiled floors 300 - 500B and more modern construction, but they PP Valentine is located in a fertile valley are a lot cooler during the day and quite that was once perfect for cultivating rice tastefully done. Their 29 good-quality units and has now been given over to harvestare spread out over a sizeable patch of the ing a bumper crop of tourist dollars. The hillsidet in various scenic spots. Many have 'courtyard' grounds have been given a large balconies with views. The air-con make-over and are quite pleasant to look rooms look rather uninspiring as you en- at nowadays (in the past they were wild). ter, but inside the rooms are spacious, with The rooms around the courtyard are spaThai-style touches and high ceilings. All cious and quite cool temperature wise, but rooms have private bath and hot water somewhat spare. A two-storey building showers. The huts are easy to find: take a offering more rooms is located at one end right as the path divides and walk to the of the courtyard and they also have top of the hill. cheaper, smaller huts with steamy interiors fronting the road. Don't expect proThe Scenery Guest House fessional service or amenities if you stay A bit of a step up 6/10 here, as the staff are far too interested in On the steps to the viewpoint day-time soaps and sleeping, but it's still a T: (086) 627 1147 good deal for the price. All rooms are fan 300 - 800B At the top of the steep steps (but with new
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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org only with private, cold-water bath. J. J. Bungalow Reasonable value 6/10 The Ao Lo DalamTon Sai Road T: (075) 601 090-2 F: (075) 601 090 info@jjbungalow.com www.jjbungalow.com 800 - 1,940B There are two outfits named JJ Bungalows -- the other offers bamboo bungalows and is next to JJ Guesthouse in Ton Sai village, run by the same owner. The bungalows are concrete resort-style affairs set on a very steep hillside with views of the valley and the viewpoint hill on the other side. Interiors are spacious and clean, though the mismatched furnishings could be improved. Rooms all have tall sliding glass doors that give on to pleasant balconies, and come with private bath with hot water shower, air-con, fridge, and TV with international cable. It's a better room than you'll get on Ton Sai Beach for the same price, but then if you hunt around there are better locations to be had, particularly if you like a view of the ocean. A small community village is expanding on the hillside here, which may add a little noise to the equation. PP Dream Basic budget rooms in a long-house 6/10 Soi Viewpoint T: (081) 170 8937,(081) 704 0533 www.phiphidream@hotmail.com 300 - 1,000B As you walk along the soi towards the viewpoint, PP Dream is the large longhouse just past the water treatment park. It's a blend of rustic bamboo thatched-wall rooms and a handful of cement air-con numbers. The bamboo rooms offer budget fare for the backpacker crowd, with some of the cheapest prices on the island. The toilets however are minuscule -- even by Thai standards these are ridiculous. The same goes for the air-con rooms -- barely large enough for a bed let alone the attached bathroom, but you do only come with huge wooden posts everywhere carved into colourfully painted totem-like heads. The bungalows are standard bamboo thatch, but a lot of care has been taken to furnish and decorate the interiors, and they all have great mosquito nets and balconies. Unfortunately, most rooms have share bathrooms, and the cheaper units have the lesser views and fewer furnishings. Bathrooms border on exquisite and are a good example of what you can do with a little creativity. There's a beautiful bay with a private beach and not-so-many longtails as elsewhere -- it's quiet at night as well. They have a huge, rather impressive reception area for such a small outfit, with a restaurant on premises serving mostly Thai food and water sports equipment available for rent. This place is an up-and-comer among bungalow outfits along the coast, and they're getting off to a great start. We've had some reports of them not answering emails so be patient.
Quirky but romantic 7/10 Along its stretch of beach, Viking is really unique. It has way more personality and feels less overdeveloped than its neighbours, even though it is sandwiched between other busier areas. The beach is really pretty and the bungalows are cute -- ours was up on stilts overlooking the ocean. It kind of feels like luxury camping -- there were no glass or screens on the windows, and we had to kind of walk out and around to get to the bathroom (though it was private). The mosquito netting and open-air arrangement is really fun and adventurous-feeling. Our only real complaint was that it was loud -- with long-boats going past and the staff blaring music late into the night. Itwas tough to sleep, but, if you're a sound sleeper and enjoy feeling like you're in Robinson Crusoe, this place can be awesome. 11/2008

here if you want to save cash and spend your savings on beer in the bars. The staff are relaxed and helpful, and run a basic minimart downstairs. An internet cafe is on site and a small bar occasionally sells French food. The drains in the area do have a special aroma which lingers at times, particularly in the drier months. New Wave Bungalows Best of the worst 4/10 Soi Viewpoint 300 - 700B The best of the worst on Soi Viewpoint -the rooms aren't great, but they are located along a funky stone-work garden path that climbs up an alley on the hill. Popular with local Thais and some long termers. There's also one room which fronts directly onto the street; great if you're a social animal but good luck sleeping past 8am! The tiny restaurant besides it does great sandwiches and pancakes, and at a good price too.

Ton Sai Beach

There's no accommodation along the beach road heading east until you reach the headland upon which sits PP Don Chukit Restaurant, half a kilometre down. Thereafter, the resorts are packed together in a row, and it's hard to tell one from the next. Most of Ton Sai beach offers really lousy swimming -- the bay is a parking lot for longtails extruding petrol and debris into the water -- though it gets a little nicer as you approach the BayviewArayaburi resorts at the very end of the beach. For better swimming, head further east to one of the other beaches along the southern and eastern stretches of Ko Nai, or to the other side of the isthmus to Ao Lo Dalam. Viking Place Resort Beautiful bamboo bungalows 8/10 Between Ton Sai and Long Beach T: (081) 930 8866,(075) 819 399 www.vikingnaturesresort.com 700 - 2,500B Actually past the end of Tonsai Beach, heading towards Long Beach, this is a merger of Viking and Maprao Resorts. The management has fixed up some old bungalows and have added great new ones. It's inevitable that in the future the whole hillside will be developed here as the new owners paid top dollar for the land (we heard 300m baht for 60 rai). For now it still maintains its original style and beauty. Despite the name, the decorative theme here is not so much Viking as Tikki,

Bad service, not worth the money! 5/10 We booked the bungalow by e-mail, then we called them in a day before we arrive, but nobody met us on the pier. When we came to the place, we found out that they do not have the bungalow we booked! And the last one with the sea view was very pricey. The beach near the resort is tiny, though clean. After a quick discussion, we moved to the neighbouring beach and found wonderful bungalows with balcony and sea view at cheaper rates. 3/2009

Chaokoh Phi Phi Lodge Spacious and tidy 7/10 157 Moo 7, Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 601 083 F: (075) 601 084 info@chaokohphiphi.com www.chaokohphiphi.com 1,000 - 2,700B Prices have been rising steadily at this resort after the post-tsunami rebuilding was completed. Rather than rebuild on the old site, which was all but destroyed by the tsunami, they decided to build a new place further up the beach. The rooms are enormous and tidy, and come with TV, minibar, safe and hot-water bathroom. It's what you would expect in the price range, in a fine setting with a particularly pleasant pool and a notch up in terms of quality relative to its neighbours. It's a bit of a hike to the town centre now, but the plus side is it's only about a 15-minute walk from Long Beach. A terrific seafood restaurant is attached and on the beach side there's Carlitos Bar, which is one of the in spots for evening drinks, particularly during the fire show. This resort does still offer value for money, despite the price rises, but if the trend continues it will soon price itself out of the market. 11

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org Phi Phi Andaman Resort Improving with time 7/10 1 Moo 7, Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 601 111 F: (075) 601 113 www.phiphiandamanresort.com 1,000 - 2,900B It is easy to mix up this place with PP Andaman Bungalows, as they're right next to one another. Renovated after the tsunami, the rooms here are clean and offer a certain sense of design. They are tastefully done with white walls and traditional wood style decor. air-con, TV, fridge and hot water come as standard, and rates include breakfast. The beds are comfy and make use of stylish linens, and there are nice touches like silk pillows and wood carving decorations. Balconies are furnished with a couple of chairs and enjoy the view of the resort gardens, which are quite pleasant, scattered with palms and frangipani. The resort has started offering its basic rooms at lower rates. Arayaburi Resort & Bay View Resort Spectacular views 7/10 Ton Sai Beach T: (076) 281 360-4 F: (076) 281 365 info@phiphibayview.com www.phiphibayview.com 1,700 - 4,500B This resort is slightly hidden away from the main beach area. To get here on foot from the pier, you have to continue up Ton Sai beach to where the path ends and walk along the beach past the school. Some people take a longtail, which isn't totally necessary, but more convenient if you have a lot of bags. All the rooms are private bungalows, some of which are quite a long haul from reception up a steep hill, but the views from the very comfortable and spacious verandas are brilliant. Rooms are fully equipped with air-con, TV, hot showers, mini-bars and safe -- they vary a little in quality but overall are not too bad, and definitely a step up from most of the places you'll find along the way. It's an amalgamation of two resorts -- the Arayaburi has slightly more upscale offerings to the left and in back of reception, and the Bayview accommodation is up on the hill to the right. The resort mainly goes by the Bay View name now. They have a private beach in a cove just past a rocky outcrop that marks the end of Ton Sai beach -- it's a little small but you're only a 10-minute walk from Long Beach. A few Travelfish users have complained about the service here, though when we checked it out the staff catered to us in a professional and courteous manner. Phi Phi Villa Resort Efficient and well run 710 1 Moo 7, Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 610 100-2 F: (075) 601 102 info@phiphivillaresort.com www.phiphivillaresort.com 500 - 4,800B Quite a few additions and a lot of maintenance has greatly improved this resort in the last few years. There are a nice selection of well-furnished rooms with tile floors, decent bathrooms, and nice views of the garden. The resort is run in a professional manner and staff are friendly and helpful. The pool is good, and overall Phi Phi Villa is probably a better option than other places in the vicinity. The new beachfront bungalows (luxury deluxe seaviews) are by far the best option and are well worth the extra money if this is the place you decide on. All rooms come with air-con and satellite TV. Phi Phi Don Chukit Resort Aging and no great shakes 6/10 1 Moo 7, Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 618 126 F: (075) 618 126 700 - 4,000B
Accommodation
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This place was clearly built during Ko Phi Phi's more humble early years of development. Signs of ageing are everywhere. Some of the rooms are getting a little musty, the grounds are no great shakes, and it won't be winning any design awards. No structural or cosmetic improvements have occurred for many years. With 110 rooms, they try to be all things to all travellers, offering a range of budget and 'luxury' accommodation. Small, decent fan rooms are out back, but you'll have to deal with the constant noise of the resort's generator, buzzing away night and day. The pricey seaview rooms along the beach have marble floors and tile walls -- cool temperature-wise, but a bit reminiscent of a mausoleum. The bathrooms throughout leave a lot to be desired as well -- the saving grace is that you're on a relatively sleepy stretch of beach so you can spend most of your time there and not cooped up in the room. Prices vary drastically during high and low season, which makes this a good option for some low season deals.

Laem Thong

Andaman Beach Resort Ao Poh Resort Ao Toh Ko Bungalows Arayaburi Bay View Resort g Chaokoh Phi Phi Lodge on 15 Th Long Beach Bungalows m e PP Erawan Palms Dive Resort La 7 Paradise Pearl Bungalow 25 Paradise Resort 24 Phi Phi Andaman Bungalows Phi Phi Andaman Resort Phi Phi Don Chukit Resort Phi Phi Hill o Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort ka Ao Nui Ba Phi Phi Natural Resort Lo Phi Phi The Beach Resort h Ao ac Phi Phi Villa Resort Be m PP Blue Sky Resort a kN 14 PP Rimlay Pa 23 Rantee Beach e Rantee Hut te an Rantee Garden/Remember 22 oR A Relax Beach Resort Ao Yong Kasem The Holiday Inn Ao Lo 20 The Zeavola Dalam 21 Viking Place Resort

Kata Yai Beach

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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org Phi Phi Andaman Bungalows Squeaky clean 6/10 1 Moo 7, Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 601 106-8 F: (075) 601 107 info@phiphiandamanlegacy.com www.phiphiandamanlegacy.com 850 - 2,990B Following a trend in this area, Phi Phi Andaman have reduced their prices, especially for the low season. Competition is big around here so don't be afraid of flexing your bargaining powers and getting good deals. Phi Phi Andaman Bungalows is set around a pool and large grounds. The accommodation is fairly bright and clean, but on the whole, the quality is so-so. Rooms are reasonably large, but the design is bland. One of the best points is being close to the pool -- the other is the staff who seem unnervingly kind and helpful, even for cynical travel writers. This is a good mid-range option, but don't expect the kitchen sink. Andaman Beach Resort Clean huts, crowded pool 6/10 Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 621 427 F: (075) 621 427 rooms@andamanbeachresort.com www.andamanbeachresort.com 1,500 - 4,850B This resort has a holiday camp feel to it. It is beautifully designed and well maintained, and the staff wandering around in bright shirts with 'can do' attitudes certainly adds to the overall impression. The smallish rooms feel a bit like a travel lodge, but they're more than adequate. The bungalows are clean throughout with a choice of fan or air-con. While certainly not the most stylish imaginative offerings on the block, they're more than adequate. PP Rimlay Pleasant huts in spacious garden 6/10 Ton Sai Beach T: (075) 601 104 1,000 - 1,500B This small outfit only has six bungalows but they're decent enough. They come with air-con, clean interiors, spacious enough bathrooms and large porch areas. The rooms all front onto a huge expanse of grass area which is as yet undeveloped, bar some light foliage and small trees. It's a tranquil area at first glance but bear in mind that this place backs onto the mosque so the silence is broken five times a day -- but that can sometimes add to the charm. The staff here could definitely do with a customer service refresher course. The responses to polite questions ranged from indifference to open hostility. They were slow or unforthcoming with requests in the restaurant as well.

Ko Phi Phi on a budget

A lot of people show up on Phi Phi Island ready to spend like drunken sailors and the prices have been rigged accordingly. One way for budget travellers to save money is to simply not go there! But it's definitely worth seeing, so we've come up with some ways to visit without emptying the bank account. Getting to Phi Phi can be expensive depending on where you depart from. If you're being asked to pay more than 400 baht, you're getting ripped off. Try showing up at the pier and talking directly to one of the boatmen. They will sometimes let you on for as little as 350 baht, but you have to be a bit persuasive, very discreet, and speaking a little Thai will go a long way. Once you get to the Island, the biggest bite will be accommodation. There are two dubious places you might try: Long Beach Bungalows -- they ain't much, but they're cheap. Rantee Beach offers 400B bungalows in low season. Be warned: you'll have to take a vigorous hike to get to both these places if you don't want to spring 100B for a longtail. Internet is 2B per minute no matter where you go. Sports Bar and Carpe Diem have free WiFi, which is handy if you're a budget traveller with a computer. Otherwise, you'll have to make really good friends with someone who runs a dive shop or do all your e-mailing before and after your stay. To save money on food, eat where the Thais eat -- just turn down the alley alongside Barracuda Divers, and, voila! No more steak and pizza, lots of rice and noodles at cheap prices. While you're in Ton Sai village, don't blow past Phi Phi Bakery thinking it's out of your price range -- surprisingly reasonable prices are to be found there.

Since you don't want to live like a monk, you may want to have a beer at some point. Phi Phi has a 7-eleven, and prices there are only a few baht more than on the mainland -- to the extent you imbibe, buy your booze here. Also, local shops sometimes offer even better deals on bottles of Chang -- keep your eyes peeled for signs. If you're looking to meet some fellow travellers while you tipple, steer clear of the bars It's more realistic to plan on spending along Ton Sai Beach, to be sure, and 400B a night in low season, 600 to 800B head out to the viewpoint road. in high season. Your choices multiply, and we feel more confident steering you For a low-cost activity, consider hiking over the viewpoint to one of three bays to the places below. on the other side, if you haven't already Viking Place has bungalows for 700B holed up there -- Rantee, Ao Toh Koh, in low season. The Paradise Pearl, the and Pak Nam beach. All of them are first one along on Long Beach, offers much better beaches than the ones 'in 400B bungalows in low season, but they town' and they all have affordable restaurants to grab lunch at. Be sure to jump in high season. plan your return before sundown to Ao Toh Koh is reachable by an hour's avoid having to take a longtail back. hike over the viewpoint, and their rates have crept up a bit -- expect to be pay- The most affordable evening of fun ing at least 600B -- call ahead to make with friends can be found at Reggae Bar which offers Thai boxing nightly sure they have a bed for you! - if you don the gloves and get in the There are a quite a few places in the ring -- and win -- your table gets two Ton Sai village area that charge around free buckets. 400B in the low season and 600B in the high season: JJ Bungalow and Guest- Being a budget traveller in Phi Phi house, Harmony House, New Wave doesn't mean you have to miss out on Bungalows, PP Valentine Bungalows the fun. In fact, by seeking out its cheap and others. All these rooms are dou- little corners, you'll probably meet bles, and not that you don't already more interesting people, learn more know this, but even if you're travelling about the island and have a much betalone, you can save a ton by grabbing ter time than all those suckers lining another backpacker in the same straits up for drinks at Apache Bar. and splitting the cost. 13

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Long Beach (Haad Yao)

This gorgeous stretch of brilliantly-white sand is only a 10-minute walk from the Arayaburi and Bay View resorts on the easternmost stretch of Ton Sai, just past Viking. It hosts six resorts offering a very wide range of accommodation, and some of the best deals on Phi Phi. This beach is sometimes congested with longtails, but when the waves are too rough for the boats, most operators won't venture here and instead drop off and pick up at Ao Poh, a seven-minute walk to the east over the headland. The going rate is 200 baht per person each way. If you book more than three days, some spots will throw in free transport -- though you're usually on your own getting back. Paradise Pearl Bungalow Long a backpacker favourite 8/10 138, Moo 7, Long Beach T: (075) 618 050 F: (075) 622 100 booking@paradise-pearl.com www.paradise-pearl.com 400 - 2,500B This is the first place along the beach as you arrive and is a long-time backpacker favourite with a lot of character and a refreshingly no-nonsense attitude about the art of hospitality. It gets a steady yearround trade, which makes it a great place to meet other travellers who have checked themselves out of the Ton Sai madhouse. The popularity of the place keeps the staff hopping, but they do try hard to attend to the needs of their guests. They have a wide range of good bungalows, with a lot of choices in the mid-to-budget range -- nothing too swank, but generally spacious and comfortable with private bathrooms and big porches that are a good deal for the price. Advanced booking, especially in high season, is highly recommended. The restaurant at the front is part of the resort and one of Long Beach's favourites. Service is a little sluggish due to demand, but don't let that put you off.

tour groups scampering around in flipflops under the supervision of a talkative guide. It was erected post-tsunami, and the energetic, ambitious owner seems determined to put the place on the map. There couldn't be a starker contrast between this place and neighbouring Long Beach. Staff here are well-dressed, courteous and attentive. The on-site restaurant serves international fare designed to comfort the palates of guests wherever they hail from in the world, which seems to attract a lot of patrons staying elsewhere on the beach. The gorgeous pool sits beside the restaurant and has a classy bar nearby. The 40 bungalows are stunning, perched high up on the hillside with breathtaking views. They are solid teak and have spacious private balconies. All rooms have air-con and private bath. They get booked up quickly, especially in high season, so get in early. Recent price increases have done little to dampen enthusiasm for one of Phi Phi's gems.
Awful experience 4/10 Arrived to a rinky dink restaurant and bar area and a tiny, lacklustre pool. With such beautiful natural surroundings, you would think theyd try a bit harder to design the hotel grounds. Our bungalow had no view, an old, tiny and very grungy bathroom, and about a hundred mosquitos festering outside of our front door. We asked the front desk to see a different room, letting them know that US$89 a night (in the low season) renders nicer accommodations.Rude and unhelpful staff. We got a refund and left. 8/2009

other side of the hill once you walk down the path. Stairs up the hill were definately annoying, spent most of the day time out so we walked up at night when it was cooler! Room wasnt cleaned once while we were there. Overall this is a nice enough place but unless you really like views Im sure you could find somewhere better. 2/2009 A great disappointment 3/10 We stayed in a double fan bedroom with an extra ''bed''(the bed was just a mattress lying on the floor.) The staff were very unfriendly and seemed to be bored. We stayed there for seven nights because there was no cheaper place available on the beach. They only cleaned our room when we asked for it. The ''garden'' around the bungalows is totally dried up. Compared to three years ago the beach has changed considerably and the many boats passing by are really loud. In the afternoon the water gets messy with seaweed. We were really sad and disappointed that this idyllic place has become a victim of mass tourism. 3/2009 Don't do it 4/10 We chose a sunset bungalow with fan and were very disappointed. I was okay walking up the never ending stairs and was impressed with the view but our bungalow was not worth the 1,200 baht. It had not been cleaned properly for a long time. Our toilet dripped into a pile of scum underneath the tank. Yuk. The deck of our bungalow was in great need of repair with broken, unsafe boards and I didn't dare sit back on my broken deck chair. Thinking I was paying extra for a sunset view was a joke. If I stood on my tiptoes and lead over the porch I got a slight view. 3/2009

Phi Phi Hill Great views 7/10 Long Beach T: (075) 618 203 F: (075) 618 203 www.phiphihill.com 400 - 1,500B The fan bungalows at Phi Phi Hill are large and comfortable, some with great views, some with tree-obstructed views. But even if you get stuck in one of the latter, there are really great views also from the hillside restaurant, although the feedback we've received indicated that the food and service leave a lot to be desired. The aircon bungalows have the best views, but all are well-kitted out and spacious for the Phi Phi The Beach Resort price range. The cheapie bungalows have A beautiful addition to the island 8/10 no porches and shared bathrooms, but Long Beach yet again -- great views. Located on a steep T: (075) 618 267-8 F: (075) 618 267 slope with lots of stairs, it can be a bit of a resvn@phiphithebeach.com work out to get around, but luckily they www.phiphithebeach.com have some sort of funicular contraption 2,640 - 6,900B to pull your bags up to the top upon arYou've seen the movie, now experience the rival! If you book in advance, they'll throw resort. Actually, this place had nothing in a free boat ride out there. whatsoever to do with the movie and we doubt highly that Leonardo DiCaprio has Average 6/10 ever stayed here, but who's watching? Stayed here for three nights in a 750 baht fan What you will find in residence are large room. It was very basic, but large. We stayed on
the sunrise side so you really feel like youre on the

Paradise Resort Popular with families 6/10 Long Beach T: (081) 968 3982 F: (076) 610 099 info@paradiesresort.co.th www.paradiseresort.co.th 1,000 - 2,700B Located in the middle of the beach, this place is sometimes referred to as Paradise Family because it specialises in rooms that sleep three or four people. The resort has been built with a subtle eye. The rooms we saw were spacious, clean and well-furnished, and the staff were extremely efficient and friendly. It's popular, and not a bad choice for families looking to stay on Long Beach. When we passed by in low season it was already full so be sure to book in advance. Possibly the best location, smack in the centre of Long Beach, however it isn't the best value in the area. Long Beach Bungalows Cheapest on Phi Phi 6/10 Long Beach, Ko Phi Phi T: (084) 390 3190 F: (076) 232 096 300 - 1,000B Long Beach is the budget option on Long Beach, and it's not a bad deal for the money. The grounds and bungalows are rundown, but here's its saving grace: it's by far the cheapest place to stay in this part of Phi Phi and it's on a great beach with access to restaurants and facilities at resorts nearby. The fan-only rooms are fairly
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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org crappy, and the cheaper ones have squat toilets, but the bedding is clean and you should get a good night's sleep. The service is more relaxed than at the other higher-end resorts on Long Beach, but it isn't bad. Budgeteers, heed the call! PP Blue Sky Resort Scary colour scheme 6/10 Long Beach T: (089) 881 7929 ppblueskyresort@hotmail.com www.phiphibluesky.com 1,500B - 3,600B Whomever chose the external colour scheme at Blue Sky has some kind of issue. The colours really jar, especially within the context of Phi Phi and Long Beach. The sky blue (hence the name) colours just don't fit, but it is a theme. Having said that, the interior of the bungalows are excellent and relatively new. They come with all mod cons, TV, fridge, air-con and hot water. The bathrooms are excellent and the rooms themselves are spacious. The welcome at the sky blue reception is warm and genuine. Staff speak excellent English and the location, close to the centre of the beach and with the bungalows facing the sea, make this a good mid-range option.

Ao Poh
This small, picturesque and often overlooked bay is home to a single bungalow outfit. It's a seven-minute walk over the headland from the easternmost point on Long Beach (the road goes up the hill behind Phi Phi The Beach Resort). It's a good half-hour hike from start to finish from the Ton Sai pier -- but if you love to hike, it's quite an enjoyable trek. If you continue on 15 minutes or so, you'll pass the new gypsy village, and another beautiful, asyet-undeveloped bay, Lo Moo Dee. The walkability makes it a good compromise if you want peace and quiet during the day yet want to party hard at night in the main

town. The beaches further north which require a boat journey can cost as much as 800 baht to reach by longtail boat at night. One thing to bear in mind here is that we've had mixed reports about the ocean -- apparently it's full of nettles and urchins. Ao Poh Resort A great getaway spot 9/10 Ao Poh T: (086) 690 5086 500 - 1,000B This is the one of those places you'll find along the coast where the old spirit of Phi Phi lives on. At present there are 12 bun-

galows, with no plans for expansion as they want to keep the place relaxed and low key. The bungalows have a great atmosphere, with stonework jungle toilets, porches with hammocks and a setting that's perfectly tranquil. A restaurant on site serves reasonable Thai food. The staff are polite but shy. A great getaway spot.
Away from it all! 7/10 It is still there, the Ao Poh resort, and it is great! Highly recommended. Very relaxed at a nice, small beach. To get there, take a long tail boat from Ton Sai. You can walk, but it is a long, hot way with a backpack. In high season, expect to pay 700 baht for a bungalow with a bathroom, 300 baht for a simple bamboo hut right on the beach -- just a room with a view! 2/2009

Ao Toh Ko
Like Ao Poh, this great little bay is one of Ko Phi Phi's undiscovered little gems. There's a single resort here, with great swimming and a beach that is deserted most of the time. You can get here on foot by taking the path to the view point and continuing on down the other side -- takes an hour, and it's a good stiff hike, especially with a pack on your back. Couch potatoes among us will definitely opt for the 100 baht boat taxi from Ton Sai pier - but you may have to wait until there's a few people wanting to go. Ao Toh Ko Bungalows Top spot 9/10 Ao Toh Ko T: (081) 537 0528; (081) 678 9609 tohkobeachp@gmail.com 600 - 1,800B Rarely does a bungalow operation stir so much positive feedback on Travelfish as Ao Toh Ko. There is very good reason for this, as this exceptional little secluded spot is a great hideaway from the rest of the island and has a collection of 32 well-designed, basic bungalows, some set back, others on the beach front. The friendly owner is very approachable as are the staff in general. Almost every room here is different, varying from wood to bamboo to cement construction. Some have particu-

larly good views over the beach and out to sea and while they are very no-frills offerings, they are comfortable and all have reasonably sized balconies -- check out our favourite huts, 'The Beach' and 'The View'. If you are looking for peace and quiet then this is the location for you. The snorkelling here is simply outstanding. A small on-site restaurant gets rave reviews from Travelfish users, as does La Buena Suerte, their hillside bar with great views. We suggest you call before arriving on Ko Phi Phi to check bungalow availability. In the past, we've had repeated complaints about reservations not being honoured. We have spoken to them and even tried the booking procedure ourselves and everything seemed fine, though they do ask that you call a week beforehand to reconfirm due to no-shows. However, things do get pretty busy here in high season and sometimes mistakes occur. The staff were extremely friendly and helpful to us. The longtail ride from Ton Sai should cost about 400/500 baht depending on your negotiation skills.
Hmmm....mixed bag 5/10 Well....it certainly is a quirky place! The bad bits first ... Booking via email was a bit hit and miss. The owner seemed confused about our booking but after some discussion sent us to a room on the top level (1,500B). The room was very basic (which is fine and as I expected). However, there was no hammock as advertised, no hot water at any point

during our stay and a slightly grubby feel to the place -- holes in the mosquito nets, windows missing glass, grimy louvre windows. The worst thing though was the litter. From our balcony you could see dozens of empty lager bottles, drink cans, plastic bottles etc. The service at meal times is sloppy at best. The food -- when it arrived, was really good though. There were positives. There is a nice feel to the place and residents would often chat over dinner or a drink in the bar. We also went on a faultless trip to Phi Phi Leh. 1/2009 Our fave 7/10 If you want a chilled spot with a good vibe and awesome snorkelling - this is it! We found the staff incredibly friendly and helpful.The cheap bungalows are small and basic, but still comfortable and more than adequate. Had our own bathroom and mosquito net with no holes in it. A nice beach with stunning snorkelling. The swimming's not great at low-tide but still fine to snorkel. Loved the restuarant, vibe and had really good food and service -- and a couple of winning cocktails. Only two negatives, the litter, which is a problem; and the longboat traffic -- which carries on all day and does detract from the peacefulness. Besides the two major negatives, it was our favourite spot and we'll definately be back. 2/2009 Paradise away from the crowd 8/10 We were picked up at the pier as agreed by phone just a day in advance, stayed for three nights, and had a perfect time. Friendly people, excellent food and a stunning location. Hiking to Phi Phi 'town' is about 45 minutes. 10/2009

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Rantee Beach
Rantee beach was for a long time one of Ko Phi Phi's great hideaways -- nowadays it's being outclassed by newer bungalow outfits on Pak Nam Bay and Ao Poh, where much of what you're looking for here is in more abundant supply. Rantee is still a laid back affair, with only three (and one of those is only open in the high season) hut operations on the beach. The beach has its own private generator, with electricity available from 18:00 to 24:00, so take that into consideration before paying more for a room with a fan. Air-con is entirely out of the question. Be sure to bring along a torch and plenty of mosquito repellent.

a ride to or from Ton Sai. There is a path to Ton Sai village, however this really does give you a considerable workout and shouldn't be relied on as an efficient mode of transport. Rantee Hut Well spaced-out huts 7/10 Rantee Beach T: (089) 741 4846 400 - 1,000B At the south end of Rantee beach lies this simple but charming little place, with a restaurant in a pleasant setting and slightly larger bungalows well spaced out at the base of the hillside. They are quaint bamboo and thatch huts up on stilts with hammocks hanging on the front porches. The food at the restaurant is a little bland, but for the beach it is the best option. The English-speaking staff are welcoming and there's a relaxing atmosphere in the restaurant. Staff are very knowledgeable about Phi Phi and its surrounding islands. Tours and trips can be booked here.

they are made from cement and bricks. Small cosy balconies face the ocean, and there's a beach bar named Tune-In directly next door. These huts are at the most expensive end of the accommodation prices on Rantee, but are still very competitive compared to other beaches. This spot is for those who want a relaxed and laidback holiday in isolation. Rantee Beach Unimpressive but friendly 5/10 32 Moo 7, Rantee Beach T: (086) 746 3297 ranteebeach@hotmail.com 400 - 800B Rantee Beach Huts is located at the centre of the beach and has a cluster of huts perched mainly on the hillside to the rear. It's a laid back, if unimpressive spot that also runs a dinky restaurant with a very limited menu. They offer small, basic thatch bungalows with wooden floors -the cheapest bungalows come without a fan, which makes sense since you'll only have electricity six hours a day in the evenings anyway. All the huts are looking worn and tatty. The bathrooms are quite frankly grotesque -- when we visited the white paint was barely visible due to mould on the walls. If the other two places are full, then this will do, but barely. Owners are friendly, but there is only so far that friendly can go. In high season, the 800 baht price tag seems like daylight robbery.

There are a few chilled out bars, and a later night venue named Tune-In, so it's not always peace and quiet during the evenings. The main highlight of Rantee is the abundance of stunning hard and soft corals which lie directly off the beach. It's arguably the finest snorkelling spot on all of Phi Phi, and you don't need a boat to get to it. Try spotting the rays, reef sharks and Rantee Garden/Remember Laid back and friendly 7/10 puffer fish. Rantee Beach Rantee may not always be the quiet back- 500 - 1,200B water it is today, with signs of redevelop- This place is only open during high season ment, but its location means that it will and, as explained by the guys lurking around when we passed through, it has never be one of Phi Phi's busier haunts. two names: Gardens or Remember. Four At the moment, boat access is the most peachy coloured huts sitting directly on efficient means of arrival and departure, the sand offer a slight step up from the with a price tag of 400 baht per person for budget accommodation on the beach as

Pak Nam Beach

Another beautiful, overlooked beach, Pak Nam has only a single accommodation option, proving that Ko Phi Phi has not yet died the death of a thousand dive shops. As with all such beaches along the coast on the way to Laem Thong, there's great snorkelling, tons of peace and quiet and limited access to electricity. The beach is slightly more rocky than others, so perhaps not ideal for children or paddlers. Be prepared to pay 300 baht for a longtail taxi to Ton Sai. Phi Phi Relax Beach Resort Very pretty setting 8/10 Pak Nam Beach T: (081) 083 0194 suteejansom@yahoo.com www.phiphirelaxresort.com 900 - 1,900B Relax have been spending a few years hon-

ing their brand of welcome and relaxation through discreet service. The staff are great, providing the right combination of leaving you be and being attentive. The isolation may make some feel out of touch, but for others it will be heaven on earth. Relax Beach Resort has well-designed and well-maintained bungalows in a very pretty setting along the beach. They don't exactly charge backpacker prices, but this is a great little place to stay if you're looking for an out-of-the-way bungalow experience with a bit more polish and comfort. All the bungalows are sturdy, with hardwood floors and good attention to detail -- each with a very decent attached private bathroom. Cute little day beds are attached to the front of the hut, great for lounging in the breeze during the hot day. The barrestaurant has a very pleasant character, with a raised platform full of mats and cushions for chilling. While all

the rooms have a fan, bear in mind that the electricity only gets switched on at 18:00. If you occupy yourself at the bar past the witching hour, they mercifully keep it running for a couple hours after people go to bed -- usually until about 03:00.

Money on Ko Phi Phi

Thailand's national currency is the baht. You will be expected to use baht for all your cash transactions. There are international ATMs on Ko Phi Phi and also exchange facilities. You will be able to get a cash advance on the island and Western Union is available. Count your baht AUD: 31.15 CDN: 31.91 EUR: 49.95 GBP: 55.27 JPY: 0.37 NZD: 24.72 SGD: 24.03 USD: 33.28
The $ in this Travelfish guide means US$. Exchange rates for Thai baht (THB) Source www.xe.com 12 November 2009

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Ao Lo Bakao
Home to a single resort, Phi Phi Island Village, Ao Lo Bakao is one of Ko Phi Phi's more stunning stretches of sand. Quiet most of the time, Ao Lo Bakao is great for swimming and other water sports. The water is very shallow indeed and when the tide is out you will have to wade for about 100 metres until you reach the beach as long tail taxi boats cannot get in any closer. Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort & Spa Style, style, style! 9/10 Ao Lo Bakao T: (076) 222 784 F: (076) 214 918 reservation@ppisland.com www.ppisland.com 4,900 - 25,200B

If you're going to pay ransom money to enjoy a four-star luxury resort, you'd better be sure your kidnappers will put you up in high style. With that in mind, don't hesitate to surrender to Phi Phi Island Village and leave all future negotiations on your release in the hands of your credit card company. The rooms here are exquisite, and the staff and facilities first class. It's an idyllic, romantic spot popular with honeymooners, particularly Australians. Even the standard rooms (that is to say, Superior Bungalows) are superb. The more expensive rooms have separate living room salas, and the pieces des resistances are the pool villas, offering privacy, luxury and a private splash pool high up in the hills. A full range of services are, of course, available -- a spa, water sports,

tennis courts, golf-cart chauffeurs, three restaurants and a huge, free-form infinity pool with a swim-up bar and jacuzzi. Ah, if only we could land our private jet here. Be aware that this place is often full, even during low season, so be sure to book in advance. Check online rates, which staff kindly informed us may be lower than that cited here.
Beautiful Place 910 We stayed here for two nights and got a last minute rate of 3,300 baht a night. I cannot tell you how nice it is. The rooms are beautiful. Also the beach and pool are fantastic. The dinner buffets are expensive but great. Do yourself a favour, splurge a little and stay here. Recommended 8/2009

Laem Thong
Haad Laem Thong (Palm Beach) is the most remote of the remote beaches, but also one of the most developed, with several large resorts filling the surrounding hills. At the same time, a small community of Chao Ko still live here and run shops and food stalls that charge Thai prices right alongside the overpriced resorts. A school is located here right smack in the middle of the Natural Resort, so there's still lots of local life going on. The beach is one of the islands best. Its great at high tide and big enough to accommodate large numbers of people in high season without too much crowding. The 600 baht one-way price tag on a long tail transfer puts off most people from a casual visit, but this is one of the beaches to head to if you have a desire to be far from the maddening crowd. Zeavola Hotel Recommended, if you can afford it! 9/10 11 Moo 8, Laem Thong T: (075) 627 000 F: (075) 627 025 info@zeavola.com www.zeavola.com 6,900-26,000B The Zeavola could be the poster child for ecologically-friendly luxury development on Phi Phi. Accommodation is so discreetly situated you don't even know it's there when passing by on the beach. All you see is a small sign and beautiful reception area with welcoming staff. The bungalows that appear as you turn each corner are absolutely magnificent, boasting dark wood, open-plan units, rich, colourful decorations and sumptuous attention to detail. The rooms are enclosed in glass to allow for air-con, but they don't lack that bright,

airy feeling the best fan rooms have to offer, and you can always open everything up and switch off the air. The beds have milky-white mosquito netting for sleeping in the night-time breeze. The bathrooms are situated for most rooms across a teakwood breezeway that doubles as a lounge area. An antique writing desk has been converted into a vanity-cum-sinktrestle just outside the door of the stonework bathrooms with large showers. Rolldown bamboo screening can be employed to afford more privacy without reducing airflow. The pool is another hidden joy, though some villas have private splash pools. The resort has a fabulous massage facility, but you may be happy just lounging around on the beach, taking in the sounds of your surroundings. It would be hard to find a place that better combines the joys of nature with the pleasures of wealth. The warm welcome, natural beauty and elegant design combine to make this the best resort on Phi Phi -- if not all of Thailand. Recommended, if you can afford it! Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island A good family vacation spot 8/10 Moo 8, Laem Thong T: (075) 627 300 F: (075) 627 397 reserve@phiphi-palmbeach.com www.phiphi-palmbeach.com 3,000 - 9,000B We know what you're thinking. There's a Holiday Inn a couple miles from where you live, out on the highway. You never stay there, why would you stay here? Well, because this one really is quite attractive. There's a great pool, the staff are attentive, and it's got all the facilities and activities you need for a family holiday: kayaks

and snorkelling gear, a gym, tennis court, game room, and a video theatre with a DVD library. Rooms are very decent -clean, colourful, well-stocked with amenities. They may be a tad reminiscent of the ones out on the highway, but you're on Ko Phi Phi in Thailand, where there are no roads, and Laem Thong has a worldclass beach. All rooms come with a kingsized and single bed, though you pay more if you bring along a guest to sleep in the extra bed. Of course you have your choice of bars and restaurants, and more are available along the beach. The exterior design is traditional Thai. This Holiday Inn has to number among the best that this chain has to offer and is definitely not to be overlooked. PP Erawan Palms Dive Resort Perhaps a good deal for a long stay 6/10 Moo 8, Laem Thong T: (076) 957 246 F: (076) 236 355 info@pperawanpalms.com www.pperawanpalms.com 2,600 - 8,700B A poorer relation to the nearby Holiday Inn, the Erawan offers 26 spacious, decent rooms with TVs, mini bars, and so-so bathrooms, with good porches attached. A pool, spa and a dive shop are also on offer. Staff are friendly, if a little laidback, but service is slick and the resort is of a high standard. It doesn't add up to good value when you factor in the price and local competition, but is acceptable if you can get a good deal on a longer stay. Its location in the middle of the beach is a plus and the resort does offer everything you'd expect from a place in this price range, but it suffers from its proximity to other high-end resorts. There are deals to 17

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org be had, such as pay three nights, stay four. forces of nature are at work here as well Check their website for further details on - the natural tendency for things to despecials. grade and fall apart and for staff to give up doing much about it. Accommodation Phi Phi Natural Resort ranges from townhouse type villas to priFriendly but aging 5/10 vate detached seafront bungalows. The Moo 8 Laem Thong latter were once decent, but they're startT: (075) 613 010-1 F: (075) 613 000 ing to look like low-rent rooms with rusty info@phiphinatural.com fridges and scummy bathrooms. That www.phiphinatural.com said, many have splendid water views and the resort has its own private beach. There 2,100 - 8,250B Natural Resort, which surrounds the local is a tiny but well-placed pool overlooking primary school, is in a decidedly natural if the water, but it's arguable whether you'd somewhat overgrown setting. Other want to use it as it was pretty iffy during our visit. A huge restaurant on site serves grand buffet spreads and has plenty of good tables with sea views. Overall, Natural isn't worthy of its current price tag and the resort is decaying -- the local competition really knocks spots off it. It seems that Phi Phi Natural is focusing its attention on the Russia and Eastern Europe markets, perhaps trying to take advantage of their infancy. With a little work this resort could reclaim its past glory, as the staff are extremely helpful.

Ko Phi Phi diving guide

Both in terms of variety and quality of dive sites, the offerings around Phi Phi Island are excellent. You'll find a diverse range of topography under the water - wall diving, pinnacle diving, swim throughs, beautiful hard and soft coral formations -- and a wider array of aquatic wildlife is on display than anywhere else in Thailand. Visibility is good even in low season, at about 10 to 15 metres, and excellent at high season, at 15 to 25 metres. There are only about three or four days every year where adverse weather prevents the boats from going out. The established rate on Phi Phi for a two-dive day trip is 2,200 baht per diver. It's generally up to the operator to pick the sites based on weather conditions and which sites are the least crowded on a given day, but definitely consult with your guide if there are particular sites you want to see. Hin Daeng and Hin Muang An hour from Ko Phi Phi by speedboat, these two five-star dive sites are actually two undersea mountains standing side by side -- Hin Daeng just breaks the surface and Hin Muang peaks 15 metres below it. The names mean 'red rock' and 'purple rock,' and that's not just hyperbole -- they're covered with brilliant, vividly-coloured soft coral formations from which they get their names. On any given day, majestic manta rays are bound to be swirling around the area. Strong currents can be a bit of a problem here, so it's not recommended for absolute beginners. The water is too choppy to get out here in low season, so you can only visit from May to November. It's the furthest off

of the local sites, and it's the most expen- crashed into before it sank. It's another sive at 5,500 baht per diver. great, easy dive for beginners, where you'll get a gander at anemones, huge Bida Nai and Bida Nok morays, travellies, rainbow runners, This is a superb dive site, accessible year- angel fish, bat fish, barracudas -- a bufround, with gentle currents -- suitable for fet for lovers of aquatic nature. divers at all levels of experience. The islands are surrounded by a rich variety of Phi Phi Leh hard and soft corals, attracting a broad There are several dive sites on the west range of sea creatures: leopard sharks, side of Phi Phi Leh only available in high hawksbill turtles, moray eels, black-tipped season. Maya Corner, near Maya Bay, reef sharks, blue spotted sting rays, sea offers turtles, soft and hard coral, many horses, trumpet fish. Huge gorgonian fan swim throughs, and the opportunity to corals are also on display. There's one swim be surrounded by clouds of tiny glass through, and you make your way along a fish. There's also Palong Wall, somesandy-bottom among large boulders to times called Whale Shark Wall -- there's get from one island to the other. This site no guarantee you'll see whale sharks, counts as two dives on the 2,200 baht day but there's a better chance here than trip. anywhere else. Phileh Wall on the east side of Phi Phi Leh offers something a Phi Phi Shark Point bit different -- a slow-drift dive, movDiving is only available here during slack ing along the wall with currents. If tide and flat water. It's the garden spot for you've got an under-water camera, this shark-lovers, and while there's never any is the best place to take pictures. Nearby guarantee, the site is typically visited by is Table Coral City -- it's one of the few large numbers of leopard sharks. The cut- sites affected by the tsunami. A lot of tlefish on view here are especially good. the table corals were snapped off the There's more hard coral in these waters pinnacle they attached to, and it's worth than soft. It counts as one site on a two- a look just to survey the damage. Fisite day trip. nally, there's Mushroom Rock on the northwest end of Phi Phi Leh, another The King Cruiser Wreck site rich in soft corals and underwater This ship wreck has admittedly been col- life. lapsing a bit in recent years, becoming a little less interesting to look at. It's a popu- Cave diving and night diving lar site, though, so local operators are Cave diving is usually technical diving working on the idea of sinking another ship. reserved for very experienced divers, We look forward to seeing how that goes. but there's a cavern in Wang Long Bay The King Cruiser costs a little more to see in the shape of a horseshoe that's wide than other sites in the two-site daytrip roll enough for any diver to get through call -- it's 3,900 baht as part of a three-site safely with a torch. Other more difficult dive trip and 3,200 baht as part of a two- cave dives are available in Maya Bay and site excursion. at Bida Nok -- ask your guide for prices and info. Night dives leave at 18:00 and Anemone Reef mostly go to Phi Phi Leh or Ton Sai wall This is what the King Cruiser actually -- it's a one-site dive, 800B.

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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org

Eat and meet

The first thing many people do when they get to Phi Phi is take a walk around Ton Sai village and see what there is to see. It's a good idea to familiarise yourself with the area on your first day, since none of the streets have names, and everyone navigates relative to landmarks and the more conspicuous establishments. Phi Phi is known for its nightlife, attracting a mostly young crowd. The bars lining Ton Sai beach are the most notorious hot spots.

The first one along is Carlitos, with its tables on the beach. This is where the recovery centre was set up right after the For a slightly quieter time, head to the tsunami. They play the music loud here to Ibiza Bar, just next to Apache Bar. This make up for the lack of atmosphere. shuts slightly earlier and has a more relaxed, 'sit and enjoy the music and stars' Next one along is Apache Bar, a concrete, kind of feel. All the bars here do the ubiqbeer-soaked monstrosity with a huge uitous fire shows nightly. The fire shows wooden phallus guarding the door. (It's a are strictly for the early bird crowd as the fertility symbol, pre-dating Buddhism, parties don't really crank up on this beach that many establishments in Thailand dis- until midnight. play, generally on a smaller scale, to ensure 'productivity' in business). The Apache In Ton Sai village proper, Sports Bar is an Bar is crass and butt ugly, but they put on aptly named place with three big screen weekly 'lady boy' shows, they have a dance TVs ensuring that everyone in the joint floor and it's usually packed to the gills. gets a good view of the football match or Further up is the slightly more mellow Hippies Bar and Restaurant. The restaurant portion is still a good family option before things get rolling at 21:00 or so. Nightly fire dancing shows are always on the menu -- locally it's called 'poi' and involves swinging bits of burning rope around in circles. Even further up is a better option for an enjoyable night out, Carpe Diem. They play a good mix of music that won't numb the mind, and the atmosphere is just right -- Indian-style seating at low tables, some of which is found inside an old longtail and they lay mats with pillows on the beach in the evenings, surrounded by tea candles, to create an intimate ambience. However, the party has moved in recent years to Ao Lo Dalam. Here you will find the crowds and the party-til-dawn set. The music is loud, the beach is crowded and the people are all in it for the party. Buckets (a bucket, for those not in the know, is a bottle of booze poured into, well, a bucket, with mixers and ice, to be communally slurped-up with straws -- you can buy them cheaper on your way to the beach), cheap Thai whiskey and any other concoction you can think of are the drinks

of choice, all set to a theme of thumping them quite mediocre, and you can miss dance music. out on a lot of good meals going by trial and error. For breakfast, head to the PP There are three main bars which hold Bakery just down from Barracuda Diving sway on the beach, to the left as you ap- as you walk away from the pier, for very proach the beach is Slinky's Bar. There is reasonable prices, Western-style pastries a stage set up every night for your dancing and really awful service -- the TV is alpleasure and the bar closes at about 3am, ways on and the staff never take their eyes but can go on much later in the high sea- off it. son. For a hearty and delicious English breakThe other main bars on the beach are fast, Little Britain, which has recently Apache Bar (yes, the same brand as the moved from Reggae Bar to Soi Viewpoint, one on Ton Sai), which competes on an is your best bet -- it's named after the inequal footing with Slinky's. The same type famous British comedy series, but the food of stage, the same drinks and the same is no joke -- they go all out to deliver an music. authentic taste of home to expats. For dinner you may be tempted by the seafood places along Ton Sai beach, most of which are associated with particular resorts. The food is generally quite good, sometimes a little pricey, but worth a try. In terms of Thai food, locals swear by Papaya, which is right near Reggae Bar -great food and generous portions at a good price. In the same general area you'll find Cosmic Pizza -- all pizzas are currently 130 baht, there's a lot of variety, they are quite big and quite good. Pastas here are only 120 baht.

the Formula One race with an audible English commentary. Also, Hibachi is hard to miss and a great deal, with its all-you-can-eat 222 baht JapaA bit deeper into the village is Reggae Bar, nese buffet, including meat kebabs, salwhich doesn't necessarily play reggae mu- ads, and an endless supply of tuna sushi. sic, but they do have a muay Thai boxing ring with regular exhibition events and There is also a great little place called GP occasional real fights -- on any given night PP which serves a selection of Western tourists are invited to get in the ring and food at reasonable prices. The ambience fight for the grand prize of two free buck- (relaxed) and fare (the chips are fantastic) ets for his or her table. For those who really make this a standout option. fancy their chances in the ring, bear in mind that getting into any boxing ring Up past the wetlands project, along the when drunk is very very very stupid. Also road towards the viewpoint, Garden be aware that medical facilities on Ko Phi Home serves up wholesome and delicious Phi are basic at the best of times. food that regular patrons rave about. The bagels with cream cheese get a big thumbs Don't over look Tide and Time a mellow, up. friendly place along the road to Palm Bungalows where you can actually have a con- In the same area, just by Tara Inn, you will versation with all those cool people you find the Banana Sombrero which is a great just met. The undiscovered gem of the bar choice for Mexican food. scene, in our book, is the bar with no name on the road to the viewpoint, below the If you're looking for an eating frenzy to Phi Phi Dreams guesthouse. It's run by a recoup that energy you burned off diving, French expat who serves drinks at bar- or to soak up last night's beers, head to gain prices and cooks up tasty Gallic fare Matt's Joint in the centre of town. It's an whenever the mood strikes him. It's usu- eat all you can BBQ place with chicken filally open, but sometimes he and his Thai lets, burgers, sausages, salmon steaks, kewife close the place up. Ah, l'amour. babs, baked potatoes, pasta and salad. Stuff your face for 250 baht boys, 220 baht There are a lot of places to eat, many of girls. 19

Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org Down at the main pier, Amico Resto weighs in as a heavyweight of Italian cuisine. With flavours you'd expect to find in Rome they serve up excellent pasta with friendly service. There's also pizza on the menu. Scandinavians or meatball lovers might like to head to HC Andersen where steaks, Swedish specials and draught beer keep the tables full. Most eateries close up around 22:00 but then the street carts come out in force. If you find yourself peckish during the wee hours then head towards the 7-eleven in the middle of Ton Sai town and you'll see a myriad of offerings from pancakes to hotdogs to things you'll have never seen have food in pots which can be easily identified and pointed at, but otherwise you'll before. be presented with a sanitised English-lanSurprisingly, there is also some great, au- guage menu designed for the occasional thentic Thai food on Phi Phi. Because the tourist wandering in, listing only noodles tourist industry attracts Thai workers from and fried rice dishes. all over the country, food stalls and markets cater to a wide variety of regional Off menu recommended dishes include tastes, cooked by locals who hail from that nua yang, (sauteed, barbecue beef) or particular neck of the woods. It helps if gaeng keh ( a meat stew with some very you have some Thai language skills, but curious vegetables) and, for the very daryou may just find the exotic, Thai-food ing, laab nua deep (raw beef in a vinaigrette experience you've been looking for here. sauce.) If you've been pouring through a Thai culinary phrase book and dreaming Turn down the road alongside Barracuda of trying something, this is the place to ask Divers into the part of the village where for it. you don't think you're supposed to be, and that's where you want to be. Some places

Sights and attractions

overloaded longtails. Often snorkelling pull in customers, aggressively hawking for and lunch (supplied in a foam container - business every time you walk within 50 Ko Phi Phi Leh - best cast into the dunes of Maya Beach metres of their shop. If you've read The Beach, then Maya Bay many seem to think) are part of the deal. on Ko Phi Phi Leh is the place where some Everyone finds it annoying. It's up to you, of the more spectacular beach scenes of These organised trip are a very affordable but you might send them a message visthe movie were filmed. way to visit Phi Phi Leh, but the downside a-vis their sales techniques by taking your is you'll be on the beach exactly when eve- business elsewhere. The 1999 filming was not without controryone else is, and in high season that can versy with the film company concerned be loads and loads and loads of people ... The best dive shops survive just fine on being accused of damaging the environand we mean loads. Expect to pay around the basis of good service and good wordment during the filming. To many, the shrill 500 baht depending on the boat size. of-mouth, so take your time, ask around calls of Ko Phi Phi hoteliers that foreignand don't go for the first operator that ers were destroying Thailand's beautiful A far better way to visit is to roll your own pulls you off the street. environment seemed more than a touch tour, rustle up a few like-minded souls and hypocritical considering the debased state privately organise your own longtail to get All shops offer three-day PADI courses of Ko Phi Phi at the time -- yes it used to out there -- expect to pay 1,000-1,500 baht for 13,400 baht (set rate throughout the be in a worse state than it is now! for the entire longtail depending on your island), two-dive day trips for 2,500 baht, bargaining ability and number of people. three dives for 3,100 baht. You'll pay an Perhaps that Phi Phi Leh was closed to the Be sure to leave Ko Phi Phi Don as early extra 1,000 baht if you want to see the King normal tourist trade during the filming, as possible so that you can dodge the Cruiser shipwreck as one of your dives thus depriving businesses on Phi Phi Don hordes. and going out to Hing Daeng and Hin of a slice of their income, had something Muang costs 4,800 baht. to do with it ... surely not! Scuba diving The scuba-diving around Phi Phi is For those looking to further their qualifiAnyway, that's all ancient history now, and worldclass. It's easy enough to find a dive cations, you can take advanced courses -Phi Phi Leh is open to all but it can only be shop on Phi Phi -- the question is, which Emergency First response for 4,500 baht, visited on a day trip -- there are no overone to choose? Every dive shop on the and Rescue Diver 12,100 baht. night facilities. Maya Beach is indeed stunisland offers the same services at a fixed ning, but the volume of day trippers, esprice established by mutual agreement, so It can be hard to decide what dive shop to pecially in high season, and the rubbish don't bother trying to haggle. They did this go with, especially in places such as Phi Phi they leave behind is a chronic issue which to avoid price wars which only force op- where there are so many choices. Our the tourist business continues to ignore. erators to overcrowd their boats and re- advice is to wander around town and chat duce the quality of service. to the various shops. Aside from Maya Beach, there's the Viking Cave, which has absolutely nothing As a result, you'll get a much better expe- Everyone offers a variation of the same what so ever to do with Vikings, but does rience across the board on Phi Phi than trip, so don't be sold on any secret locahave some scratchings of Chinese trading you might in a place like Ko Tao. Just re- tion tales. Find a shop where you undervessels and stacks of birds nests. The bird member the mantra: oil cartel bad, scuba stand the staff, and where you feel theyre nests are harvested to make, you guessed cartel good. mature enough and experienced enough it, birds nest soup. to know what they are talking about. No new visitor to Phi Phi can fail to notice The vast bulk of people visit on organised though that certain dive shops have re- On one trip we chatted to one extremely daytrips out of Ko Phi Phi Don -- either sorted to acts of desperation in order to young instructor who spoke for ages about on large pleasure cruisers or packed into
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Ko Phi Phi Travelfish Guide - www.travelfish.org how Phi Phi was so much better than Ko Tao, only to reveal he had done each and every one of his dives in Phi Phi and had never even been to Ko Tao. Bottom line, these guys work on commission and therefore want to sell to you. So by all means have a chat but don't opt for the first place just because it sounds good. Shop around and you can always head back after you've checked the competition. Ask who will be accompanying you (ie dive master or instructor), what kind of boat they have and whether they have toilet facilities, for example. Diving is a fun and safe sport, IF done under the correct conditions and supervised by experienced professionals. In our opinion a 22-year-old who's gone from student graduate to dive instructor in five months may well be qualified, but a 32year-old with 10 years' experience is a far safer bet. Diveshops on Ko Phi Phi include:
Aquanauts Scuba Diving Center (PADISSI) Ton Sai Village www.aquanauts-scuba.com Barakuda Diving Centre (PADI 5*) Ton Sai Village. T:(075) 601 006. www.phiphibarakuda.com Harlequin (PADISSI) (NITROX) Ton Sai Village. T:(075) 601 074. www.harlequinscuba.com Moskito Diving (PADI 5*) Ton Sai Village. T:(075) 601 154. www.moskitodiving.com Phi Phi Scuba Diving Center (PADI) Ton Sai Village. T:(075) 612 665 086 282 4421. www.ppscuba.com P.P. Seafrog Diving Center (PADI) Ton Sai Village and Opposite Carpe Diem Bar. T:(075) 601 073 www.ppseafrog.com Viking Divers (PADISSI) Ton Sai Village. T:(075) 601 110. www.vikingdiversthailand.com Visa Diving Ton Sai Village. T: (075) 601 157. www.visadiving.com

Boat cruises & tours A one-day cruise around the island and the islets off the coast will cost you 650 baht by speed boat or large boat (containing kayaks etc), 600 baht by longtail. There's also a shorter Sunset Cruise (15:30; 19:45 including dinner) available for 500 baht. All trips offer the opportunity to snorkel, but you can also just enjoy the cruise and the views if you like -- though that won't get you a break on the price. Snorkelling equipment and snacks are provided as part of the package and you can book a tour practically anywhere in Ton Sai village or at one of the resorts. A Shark Watch tour is available for 550 baht and they promise you're absolutely guaranteed to see a shark or you'll get your money back. Yeah, right. Maybe it's a stuffed shark? You also can roll-your-own snorkeling trip and set your own itinerary by getting a group of friends together and renting a longtail for the day -- 1,800 baht, or around 1,000 baht for a half day (3-4 hours).
Blue Skies One Day Cruise T: (084) 627 5812,(081) 893 8901. Runs from 09:00 to 15:30 Daily Snorkel & Sunset Trip T: (086) 276 3154,(084) 851 2104. Runs from 09:00 to 16:00 and 11:00 to 18:30 (sunset) Legacy Sunset Tour T: (075) 601 298,(075) 601 108; F: (075) 601 298. Runs from 14:30 to 19:00 P.P Sunset Trip T: (084) 690 8149,(089) 6450752; F: (075) 601 278. Runs from 15:30 to 19:45

equipment can just stop in and ask where the best routes are. One note of caution: the equipment here denigrates quicker due to the salty air. It isn't unknown for climbing shops to give you equipment which may be unsafe. Whenever you are loaned equipment check it thoroughly. Check for any breaks, abrasions and signs of wear and tear. DO NOT ACCEPT ANY SUSPECT EQUIPMENT. The Adventure Club, located in Ton Sai village, offers a couple of unique tours: The Quest includes jungle walking, climbing, caving with optional snorkelling and abseiling (800 baht base price, four to seven hours) Our favourite, The 007 Tour is advertised as a 'mission to an undisclosed destination.' To qualify as a participant you need to be able to do a bit of simple climbing, have no fear of heights, and the ability to keep a secret! (Costs 1,500 baht. Additional information is classified.) There are some hikes you can venture on alone -- heading east along Ton Sai, you can keep going over hillside trails or along the beach at low tide to Lo Moo Dee. This takes about an hour. On the other side of the viewpoint there are three paths leading to bays on the other side. The centre path takes you to Rantee Beach, about a 20-minute hike, and the paths to the left and right wind their way towards Pak Nam Beach and Ao Toh Koh respectively -- both about 45 minutes from the top of the viewpoint. They're hardly nature trails -- just paths used by locals avoiding the cost of a longtail to and from Ton Sai. There are some tricky bits, but nothing that requires climbing expertise.
The Adventure Club Ton Sai Village. Tel: (01) 895 1334. www.phi-phi-adventure.com

Climbing, leaping, walking For gravity fans, Phi Phi offers some cliffs that are ripe for the jumping, with adrenaline-filled plunges from 6 to 18 metres (into the water, of course) -- trips take three hours, cost 600 baht and also include snorkelling. For those seeking vertical trips in the opposite direction, Phi Phi Climbers on Ton Sai Beach Rd offers a range of courses from half-day introductions for 800 baht to three-day advanced courses for 6,000 baht. Experienced climbers with their own

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