Fine CHOCOLATES 2

GREAT GANACHE EXPERIENCE

Jean-Pierre Wybauw
PHOTOC,RAPHY FRANK CROES
 Fine CHOCOLATES 2
GREAT GANACHE EXPERIENCE

Jean-Pierre Wybauw
PHOTOGRAPHY FRANK CROES
FOREWORD

I consider this book lO be a valuable complement to my firsc book Fine chocolates - great experience. ·1he
aim of t his ed ition is to provide you wirh insight into the innovations, the issues, lhe various options
offered by rhe profession of chocolacier, and especially to learn more about the creation of new ganache
recipes. This book only deals with ganaches, since they represent the bulk of modern praline assorrmenrs.

· n1e possibilities are nearly endless and innovacion is a prerequisite, since working methods are improving
:md becoming more rational. I remember the time when ganaches had to rest for a long rime after
production unril lhey were cryscallised. Subsequendy they were put through rollers in order co make
rhe ganache somewhat flexible and malleable.

Later rollers disappeared and rhe ganaches were just left to crysrallise for one night. lhis method can still
be found in numero us professional publications today.

From a phys ical poinc of view, ganaches are very complex mixtures of suspensions (solid in liquid) and
emulsions (liquid in liquid) and compl icated incermediace forms. Thar is why ganaches arc quire sensitive
ro changes in recipes.

We used ro learn from the experience of our teachers and cechnologicaJ insight wa~ quite primitive.
But times are changi ng, raw materials are increasingly analysed and are hence more familiar,
leading co ccchnological knowledge conscantly improving, allowing us co learn more every day.
In this book I aim ro publish my knowledge of current techniques in a dear and understandable
language.

I wish you lots of success.

Jean-Pierre Wybauw
16 What is ganachc? 20 30 Emulsifying ingredients
16 Main ingredients 20 Fat 30 Fat mixtures and rhcir importance
16 High-qualiry gan;tche 21 Milk in ganache
16 There are 1001 ganachc rcdpes 21 Water 34 The precrystallising of ganache
16 Flavour, what is flavour? 21 Alcohol 35 The homogenising of ganache
17 rlavour. \'Vhich methods can he 22 Dry )Ubstances 36 Ganaches created under vacuum
used to evaluate products wirh 22 Sugars 37 Making ganaches lighter
respect to flavour? 22 Sucrose 38 'Ihe curdling of ganache
23 Corn S}'rup 40 Changes in recipes
23 Crystallised dextrose 40 The shelf life of ganaches
23 lsoglucose 44 fatbloom on che chocolate layer
24 Invert sugar 45 Preservatives
25 Sorbitol
25 Glycerol
25 Cocoa
25 Fibre
25 Spices and fruit\
28 Emulsifit'rs
49 Manual 56 Organic ganaches 71 Ganachcs wirh srimul.ning
50 Various methods to ru111 the 56 Laccose-frcc gan.tehcs properties
ganache into a slah 59 Wirhouc added sugars 87 lhe candying of ginger
52 1hc <lipping of ganachc pralin~ 59 Ganaches '' ithout added sugars
54 Flavour combinations 61 Ganaches with fermcnced alcoholic
bewragc~
66 Ganachc\ with long shelf life
67 Gia-zing g.rn.1chc\
69 Chocolate sauces
III 'Ihe caramelising of sugars 129 fruiry ganaches 180 Cuvettes (bowls)
r81 Praline in ganache cuvettes
181 Egg liqueur in ganache cuvetres
183 Caramel in ganache cu vecres
i83 Rum cream in ganache cuvenes
184 Anise cream in ganache cuvcttes
86 Layers for combined cutring 201 The flavouring of ~howlatc
praline~ 201 \faking invert sugar
86 huity layers 20T \faking almond milk
87 Caramel layers 202 Making coffee extract
87 Praline layers 203 Making substitute whipped cream
 Fine CHOCOLATES 2
GREAT GANACHE EXPERIENCE

Jean-Pierre Wybauw
PHOTOGRAPHY FRANK CROES
WHAT IS CANACHE~
In order co beccer undersrand che issues in a
maze of ganache recipes, we muse first cake a
close look at che ingrediencs in rhe recipes.
Ganache is a velvety smooch chocolace cream,
for che most pare rich in fats, varying from 24%
co 40%. A high-qualicy, creamy ganachc conrains
approximately J8% fat of which approximately
one third is fut from burcer. Ganache is an
emulsion and in fact also a suspension. An
emulsion i~ a mixcure of a liquid discributed
in very fine drops in another non-soluble liquid
(oil in wacer). A suspension is a mixture of
a liquid and extremely small solid insoluble
particles (e.g., sugar in chocolate).
MAIN INCREOIENTS
The main ingredients in a ganache are always
far, wacer, sugars and dry subscances. In a high-
qualicy ganache rhe ingredienrs muse be in
perfccr balance. "!he cype of far and irs hardness
will determine che pleasam creaminess you expect
from a ganache. The dry subsrances primarily
decermine Aavour and ensure che bonding
between fac and wacer. \Vacer will make che
ganachc less heavy.
HI C H -QUAL ITY CANAC H E
A hig h-quality ganache muse conrain che Aavour
ofirs ingredients and no single ingredienr should
overwhelm the Aavour of rhe orher ingredients.
Tf the Aavour of an ingredient pre,·ails, you no
longer caste che harmony between the various
ingredienrs.
The arr consists in combining the various
high-quality ingredienrs of which che aromas
complemenr each other.
1har is why I like simple recipes. Combining roo
many ingredients, frequencly makes che recipe
unnecessarily complex, resulting in more work
and an increased risk of error.
The rexrurc of a ganache plays an important role
in taste perception. Creaminess and melcing
behaviour determine rhe intensity of the aroma
in che mouth.
As for orher senses, caste is personal and everyone
has a different opinion when they taste a ganache.
There are, however, a number of objective criteria.
The combination of the five senses is obvious and
flavour alone i~ not sufficient ro appreciate whar
you ea sec. The eyes send signals char wi II affect
our judgement. A ga nache should look good and
under no circumsrances be grainy or curdled.
A centre chat is not at t racrive will not please us.
The same applies to the nose, which also sends
rhe requi red signals to our brain. A ganache
should have a pleasant smell.
A ganache in a smelly environmenc will rapidly
absorb chis scrange odour. 1hc cocoa bucrer in
the recipe aces as a sponge that absorbs strange
odours. 111erefore pay parricular arcencion 10
the correct scorage (see Shelf life of ganaches,
page 41).
THERE ARE 1001 CANAC HE RECI P ES
Applications can be quire diverse. There arc
ganachcs for moulded pralines, cue pralines,
co use as sandwich spread or ro fill and glaze
cakes. It is important LO creare a ganache rhac
meers expectations. There musr be harmony
between casce, odour, colour and smoorhness
in che mourh. Long shelf life is extremely
imporcant.
FLAVOUR, W H AT IS FLAVOUR~
If sciences were ro be categorised in accordance
with degree of difficulty, physics wo uld without
a doubt be the least difficu lt, w ith in second
place chemistry, followed by biology and the
lllOSl difficulr, life sciences. Sensory research is
a combination of rhe lasr rwo and is, therefore,
very difficult co implement, ' !his is undoubtedly
an explanation for the face chac only during rhe
lase few years is sensory research increasingly
being carried om. Whac is difficulc in sensory
research is the use of human beings as measuring
inscrumems. Measuring inscrumencs can be
calibraced, ISO reference merhods are available
for most inscrumems, buc man's sense of caste
cannot be calibrared. That is why sensory research
aims ro neutralise exrernal faccors co lhe cxtenc
possible in order co prevent them from affecting
lhe final judgmem of tasters. If rasters tasre
something char is nicely packaged in a properly
lit environmenc, accompanied by a good narra-
tive, few people will judge chese pralines nega-
civcly. '!he reverse is also true: no matter how
rascy the finished product, if you raste ic in a
dark, noisy environmem and packaged in plain,
white, colourless wrapping, your evaluation
wi ll be negative before you have even tasted
it. Objectivity is, the refore, che first and most
important attribute of a good cascer.
Sensory research can be divided into rwo
groups. Firsrly, objeccive, descriptive analycical
properties (e.g., che sweetness of a chocolate)
and secondly subjective or hedonistic judgements
(e.g., the pleasant Aavour of a praline). ln ana-
lytical judgments it is a macrer of relationship
with an instrument: the instrurncnc is supposed
to measure and report this measuremenc. In
hcdon is t ic tests a judgmenc is requested abour
chis perception, for example: how cascy is this
praline?
Before initiating sensory research, you have co
determine what you wish ro measure with your
panel. Since we will discuss ganaches in this
book, we will nor go into descriptive analytical
Aavour tests. We will, however, provide a
number of rips o n how co quickly, yet objectively
dete rm ine whether our newly developed produce
w ill be successful. When having new produces
evaluated, do nor be afraid co push the envelope
in new flavour combinacions. 1 he fun her you go,
the more you will learn.
F LAVOUR. WH IC H MET H O D S CAN BE USE D
TO EVALUATE P RODUCT S WITH R ESPECT TO
FL AVOUR~
Before marketing a new product, iris recom-
mended ro conduct a survey co check wherher
rhe product satisfies che caste of consumers.
The simplest reference test is co have a number of
random passers-by (cuscomers, family members,
ere.) cascc cwo samples and co ask chem ro
idenrify che best one. In this ic is important to
allow che people co choose, since ic is ext remely
difficult for many unrrained casrers co express
rheir preference. People are afraid co express
cheir opinion for fear that they will insulc you.
Count che votes afcer che sampling and you will
know a lice le more. In order co be represencacive,
one sample muse have ac lease 30-40% more
preference votes than the other.
A second test consists in having a number of
rasrers casce chree ro four differenr samples and
have chem acrribuce of score from 1 co 7, whereby
1 is ~very bad" and 7 is "very rasry". Use a score
from 1 co 7, since chis is a scale we are nor used
co applying. \Y/e are used co 1 our of 10, 1 our of
5 and 1 ouc of 100, which we associate with our
school years and tascers will unconsciously tend
co give an average score of - our of 10. In chis
session ensure that one sample is presenrcd rwice.
The goal is for casters co give rhe same score co
borh samples. Tasters who give a score of 7 co
one sample and 1 co chc ocher, are co be excluded
when processing this cesc. You can accept a
difference of lWO points, but cercainly nor more.
You will mosrly use as a blind sample. the sample
wich which you wish ro compare che other
newl} developed sample. Afrer all casccrs have
completed the casring, compute che average score
per sample. If there is a sample char is bccrcr rhan
rhe ochcrs, you will mosc of che rime notice from
che average score. However, if everyching is just
as good, you will nor be able co draw a conclusion
from rhis cesr.
The third cesc consists in having che casters rasre
chree ro four samples and categorise chem from
worst to best. Force rhe cascers to make a choice.
After everyone has rasred, you can work our per
sample what its status is (Per raster give che worst
sample a score of 1, to the second worse sample a
score of 2, etc., and rhen calculate rhe average per
sample).

By experimenting with these cechniques, you will

quickly find our which technique best suits your
produce range. Do note, however, char when you
have produced something really good, rhe word
spreads quickly. For example, rwo to chree trays
of pralines used co be placed in praline company
canteens every day.

1hc tray wich che best casting pralines was

usually emptied firsr, pralines char casced bad
were typically lefr until last.

As a last tip, a number of rules of chumb for

successfu l sensory research: be objeccive, use
casccrs from your carger group. allow chem co
caste in as neucral an environment as possible in
neutral packaging, dare co experiment, do nor cell
rasters that they were wrong, since all opinions
arc important, do nor be afraid of construcli,·e
criticism, and once again, be as objecrive as
possible.
CHOCOLATES
·1he rype of chocolate in a ganache recipe nor
only provides ir wirh a pleasam chocolate flavour,
ir also determines the colour of rhe ganache.
The quamiry of cocoa burrer in the chocolate
provides ir with a sofr or firm texture.
Mose of rhe rime standard chocolates are
preferred, since rhe use of chocolares with a high
percemage of cocoa burcer allows for lower doses
and therefore provides less chocolate flavour ro
the ganache. Because white chocolate is quire
sweer, in some recipes a smaller quantity is used
in order co be able co add some extra cocoa burrer.
Standard chocolates
- Dark chocolate wirh approximately 36 co
38% cocoa burrer
- Milk chocolate wirh approximately 29.5 co
30.5% cocoa burrer and a coca! far comenr
berween 34 and 36%
- Whire chocolare wirh approximately 28 ro
29.5°/o cocoa burrer and a coca! far content
between 35.5 and 36%
FAT
Far provides a smooth, creamy rexwre. A high
soft far conrenc in the ganache provides a firm
farry texture and in many cases this helps co
extend shelf life (for example: butter has a fat
concenr of± 82% and has a shelf Iife of 2 co 3
months, if cooled). For a high-quality ganache
a coral fat content of approximately 30 co 35°/o is
recommended. That is why cream is used as a
liquid in most ganaches, bur other liquids such
as spice or plant infusions, coffees, liqueurs and
sugar syrups can also be added. ln this case rhc
far content must be complemented by adding
butcer or vegecable fac. Depending on che melcing
poinc of che fac, ic a lso dece rm ines che firmness
and stabiliry of the cream. If insufficient solid
fat is presenc with a melcing point greater than
che ambienc cemperarnre (average around 2.o"C
(68°F)), the suspension is noc scable and in very
sofc to viscous ganaches, separarion (or rendency
co separate) of che warer phase vis-a-vis rhe far
can result. This implies char during ics processing
or srorage, and especially under remperarure
Aucruacions, che emulsion can lose irs srabiliry,
res u lting in rhe separarion of moisrure and fat.
·1he melti ng poinc is also an important facror in
rhc determinacion of che smooch melcing effecc
in the mourh. The use of a number of far(s) with
a melcing point around 30°c is importanr. lr is
therefore recommended to process ac lease 18%
cocoa buccer in a ganache, complemented wirh
a number of orher facs, as needed. Correctly
tempered cocoa burrer has a melting behaviour
of approx. 36°c. Bueter, on rhe other hand, has
a n cxcensive melcing behaviour berween 10°c and
40°c (50°r - 104°F).
Vegetable fats such as coconuc oil are made up
of 100% fac.
Vegecable oils such as rapeseed, soy, sunAower,
corn and palm nur oil: IOO% far.
Margarine is a mixture of fars and, like buccer,
conrains approximately 82% far. Three categories
can be distinguished:
- Regular margarine, which is a mixcure of
vegetable and animal facs and fish oil.
- Yegcrable margarine is produced from
vegerable facs and oi ls.
- Low-far margarine only contains 40% far.
M I LK
Dairy produces concribuce co rhe creamy caste.
Fat provides a smooch, pleasant and creamy
rcxture.
- Cream ± 2.0 co 43% butter fac
- Coffee cream ± 12 to 15%
- Whole condensed milk 9.1%
- Low-fur condensed milk 0.2%
- Sweecened condensed milk :t 7%
- Whole milk :t 3.5% butter far
- Semi-skimmed milk 1.6%
- Skimmed milk 0%
- Soya milk± 2.2% soya oil
- Rice milk 0%
- Coconut milk/cream berween 5 co 60%
coconuc far
- Buner :t 82%
- Burcer concentrace 97% buccer oil
WAT ER
Wacer provides rhe lighr, smooch, creamy texture.
Jc ensures chat the fac, rogecher wirh rhe dry
subscances, is ~pread chrough a larger volume
and ic will diluce rhe emulsion.
Water can be presenc in various forms, such
as in regular milk, which on average consists
of 88-90% wacer. ·1he orher substances arc far,
lactose, proteins, minerals, several rrace elements,
vicamins and enzymes.
- Whole milk 88-90%
- Semi-skimmed milk 90%
- Skimmed milk 91%
- Cream 60-65%
- Buccer 16%
- Whole condensed milk 2.).5 %
- Low-far condensed milk 75-80 %
- Evaporared milk 67%
- Sweerened condensed milk 31 %
- Soya milk 93%
- Tea 100%
- Coffee :t 100%
~ Fruir juices have a high moisture concent,
which depends on rhe quanriry of pulp presenc.
ALCO H OL
Liqueurs concain quice a high percencage of
sugars and water.
They are infrequencly used for che creation of
ganaches, since rheir moisture conrenc makes
the ganaches coo soft, shortens their life span
and therefore makes chis wacer very expensive.
Typically liqueur conccncraccs arc used wich 54%
co app roximately 70% alcohol concenc.
In order co extend shelf life, pure ±96% alcohol,
suitable for human consumption, is used.
The alcohol does not have a flavour, bur can
enhance the aroma of specific flavours in rhc
recipe.
ORY SUBSTANCES
Ory substances have several functions:
- They extend the shelflife of rhe ganache.
They can impact che flavour.
They screngthen the composition of
rhe ganache; they have somewhat of a
chickening effecc.
111ey increase the volume.
They lower the cosc price.
The following are dry substances:
- Sugars (if not dissolved)
- Cocoa
- Fibres
SUGARS
Sugars noc only provide ganaches with sweetness,
but also play an important role in cheir shelflife
and determine, together wich che liquid present,
rheir struccure and gloss. They are "stabilisers for
the moiscure conrenr" and therefore slow down
the drying and hardening process.
The most frequently used sugars in ganaches are
the following:
- Sucrose (regular sugar)
- Corn syrup
- Crystallised glucose(= dexcrose)
- Invert sugar
- Sorbitol
- Glycerine or glycerol
- Lactose
Each of these sugars has its own function.
They all have a chickening effect in the emulsion,
thereby decreasing any risk of shifting.
Due to their water-binding properries, sugars
are especially i mponant co extend the shelf
life of the ganache. The various types of sugar,
however, each have their sweetening power.
If you wish co use higher doses in order ro extend
shelf life, iris very importanr to combine several
sugars. This is necessary in order not to make the
ganache too sweec.
Also take inro accounr rhat the type and
quancity of used sugars can also greatly affect
che ccxrure and gloss (for glazing ganaches).
The sugars will dissolve in the warer phase.
SUCROSE ( REGULAR SUGAR)
ll1is sugar is produced from sugar beers, cane
or sugar palm by means of a refining process.
In this process the sugar is dissolved from che
planr in hot water and purified by means of
crysrallisacion and filtration.
Sucrose is broken down chemically and starts to
caramelise ar 168°c (334°F). Due to its sweetening
power of 100, it can only be added co ganaches in
limited quanrities. Too great a quancity of sucrose
can cause undesirable and early crystal crcarion
in the ganache.
Sucrose is highly soluble in water. At room
temperature up co 2000 g sucrose can be
dissolved in 1000 ml water, ar che boiling point
up co 5000 g.
It is imponanc co know for the profession of
chocolacier chat during rhe cooking process, a
percentage of the sucrose is always converted into
invert sugar. 'll1is is for the most part good for
ganaches, since it counters premarure drying.
Sucrose promotes che coherent srruccure of
the ganache.
ff heated above 168°c (3J4°F) a caramel a roma is
created.
CO RN SYRUP
Corn syrup has che property of councering
the cryscallisacion of sugars. In glazing ganaches
glucose concribuces to the increased gloss of the
ganache.
Jn general too greac a quantity of glucose in a
ga nache reci pe leads to a hi ghly elastic structure.
For the best result, rhe quality of the used corn
sy rup is of the utmost imporrance. ·1he number
of 13aume (0 Be) degrees of a corn syrup is an
indication of the specific gravit)' and therefore
the dry substance concenc. The following are
used frequendy:
~ 43°13e =80% dry substance
~ 45°Bc " 85°10 dry substance
Differences in Baume therefore do nor have co
imply an acrua l difference in quality, bur simply
indicate that the wacer concem is d ifferenc.
111e "DE" or dextrose equivalenr provides the
percencage of reducing sugar, ex pressed as
glucose and calculaced on dry substances. le
is an indication of the degree of hydrolysis co
which the search has been subjected during
produc tion.
Gl ucose with a low DE concains rew reducing
sugars, bur has a high dexrrin concenc, whilst
glucose with high DE concenc contains a loc of
reducing sugars and liccle dexrrin. 1hat is why
glucose with a high DE is sweeter.
G lucose with a high DE above 45% is recommen-
ded ir you wish co make ganaches with longer
shelf life, as in this case rhe water-binding proper-
ties of the reducing sugars slow down drying.
The higher the DE, the greater the impact of
pure d extrose. Glucose with a low DE increases
viscosity.
CRYSTALL I SE D DEXTROSE
( GRAP E SUGA R O R 0 - GLUCOSE)
This type of sugar has a sweetening power of 30,
which is ideal for decreasing che sugar-retaining
effect in fillings. le is, however, relatively difficult
co dissoh-e.
Crystall ised dextrose decreases che average
crystal dimension of the added sugars and
provides the ga nache texture with a certain
amount of flexibility. -n1is type of sugar is a lso
quire hygroscopic.
Crystallised glucose or dexcrose, the pure
crysralli~ed produce, has seYeral applications
in che sugar-processing industry. lcs major
advantages, just as wich glucose syrup. are the
relatively low sweerening power and the property
co retain water.
The narural form 0-glucose is also referred co
as dextrose or grape suga r.
Glucose grearly decreases Aw and is one of rhe
preferred ways of extending che shelflifc of
ganache.
Typically up to 25% is used. Do be careful. since
with high doses there is a risk of g ranulacion.
ISOG LU COSE
( OR GLUCOSE/ FR UCTO SE SYRU I>)
Isoglucose is a gl ucose wich a high frucrosc
concentration ( High Fructose Corn Syrup o r
H FCS). lsoglucose contains 70 to 80% frucrose.
Corn syrup is created through che hydrolysis
of corn starch, wheat flour, porato search, etc.
Hydrolysis can cake place chemically (acid
hydrolysis), eh rough enzymes or a combinacion
of both (chemically/enzymatically).
Glucose-fructose sy rups will play an increasingly
important role in the food sector in the future,
due co rhe changes in che sugar regime in Europe.
Isoglucose is at lower risk for crysrallisacion
compared to higher OE syrups, which do nor
contain fructose.
In rhe case of glucose-frucrose syrup ir is not
relevant ro refer co OE, as iris primarily rhe
fructose contem and no longer che OE, which
will affect the sweetening power.
ll1e sweetening power of isoglucose depends on
the quantity of fructose present in the glucose,
bm it is in any case sweeter than regular glucose.
Frucrose is highly soluble and greatly slows down
rhe drying our of ganache.
I NVE RT SUGA R
Inverc sugar is the product, obtained by che
spliccing or inversion of sucrose by means of acids
or enzymes (inverrase). This inversion leads to the
creadon of a mixture of glucose, frucrose and a
sucrose residue in variable proportions, depending
on che inversion process. l11e proporrion is ap·
proximately 50% glucose and 50% frucrose 1• Invert
sugar is available on rhe marker under vario us
brand names. The best known name is trimol ine.
In some countries it is nor available on the marker.
In rhis case inverr sugar can be easily made (see
Making inverc sugar, page 201). Invert sugar can
aJso be replaced with honey, if necessary. Since
honey is primarily made up of invert sugar, it
has the same applications. Honey is obviously
valued for its pleasant rasre, buc is also a lot more
expensive ro buy.
Invert sugar has the property to counter the
crystallisation of sugars. This type of sugar is
highly hygroscopic, which makes ir an ideal
moisture stabiliser, which counters the prematu re
drying om of the ganache.
TI1e fruccose presenr is very scnsid vc to hear,
and above 70°c (158°F) will dissolve and rurn
yellow. This discolouratio n is acce nruared as rhe
temperature rises. This reaction of discolouration
of the inverc sugar is affected by che pH.
In order to optimally maintain the lowering effect
of the Aw value, ic is therefore recommended
nor to heat the invert sugar above 70°c (158°F).
111is applies especially to invert sugar obtained
through enzymatic hydrolysis (see seccion
Making inverc sugar, page 201).
Invert sugar has a fine crystal structure and is
therefore soft and creamy. It is sweeter than
sucrose (sweetening power of u5).
An excess of invcrc sugar can, however, lead to
stickiness and syrup separation.
SORBJTO L
Sorbirol is a hexavalenc a lcoho l, prepared through
t he hyd rogenarion of glucose and is available on
the marker in a 70% solution. It is sold under
a variety of trade names, mostl y starting with
"Sor", e.g., Sorbex, Sorbit, Sorbo, etc.
Liquid sorbitol can be added for up co 15% in a recipe.
Sorbicol also comes in powder fo rm, of which the
ave rage dose is between 5% and 10%.
Sorbitol occurs in narure in a g reat number of
ripe fruits: apples, pears, grapes, some berries and
seaweed. The sweetening power of sorbicol is half
rhac of sucrose. le is therefore extremely suitable to
partially replace high doses ofsugars with sorbitol,
which a lso has a powerful Aw-lowering effect.
Sorbicol is also a limited moisture stabiliser and
therefore prevents t he premacure drying out of
the ganache. Sorbirol does not crystallise.
GLYCEROL
Glycerol is a high-viscosity liquid. The substance
is colourless, odourless a nd has a sweet caste. Its
sweeten ing power is two thi rds chat of sucrose.
The substance is nor poisonous. In irs natural
form ir appears in rhe human body.
Glycerine or glycerol is created rhrough the
hydrolysis of vegetable or animal fat or oil.
le is a highly Aw-lowering preservative. It lowers
che Aw value twice as much as sorbitol. l e is used
in food produces since ic coumers che loss of
moiscurc, allowing the ganaches nor to dry ouc
as quickly.
The quantity is 3 co 5%. Glycerol is soluble in
water and does not crystallise.
COCOA Chocolate
FIBRE lnulin and nuts (far removed)
SPICES ANO F RUITS
111ere is an enormous variecy. The following are
some of che mosc frequendy used spices and fruits:
- Anise: spicy flavour. To be used wich modera-
tion, since ic camouflages che ocher ingredients.
- Banana: rich specific odour. A source of
porassium, vitamin C, magnesium a nd
selenium.
- Basil: never cook in your rnixcure. Finely chop
the leaves and add to rhe cooked cream ar che
lase minute.
- Bergamot: fresh, sweet, fruity and slightly
cirrusy.
- Lemongrass: has a mild, fresh, spicy lemon
Aavour. If you do not have lemongrass
available, you can more or less replace it with
lemon balm or lemon zesc.
- Verbena: shoocs smell and taste like coke.
The leaves are bicrer. The spice screngchens
che stomach and promotes digestion.
- DiU: both the flowers and seeds can be used.
The taste is similar co fennel buc with a more
subcle anise flavour.
- Cumin: warm, spicy, anise-like flavour.
- Tarragon: peppery, sour anise Savour.
 - Raspberry: rich in amioxidanrs. Low pH.
- Ginger or djahe: quice a sharp, sweet and
pungent odour and Bavour.
- Green tea: "real" tea, which has undergone
minimum fcrmencarion. The Aavour differs
grearly depending on origin. Source of
ancioxidanrs.
- Jasmine: ehc essencial oil has a warm, sweec,
exotic aroma wich a him of musk.
- Juniper berry: the berries have a spicy smell
and first taste sweerish, bur do leave a spicy,
somewhat birrer and rarr aftenastc.
- Kalamansi (or calamondin): lighr, nutmeg-like
Bavour and somewhae less sour chan lime.
- Cinnamon: warm spicy, somewhat resinous
aroma wich sweer underrone.
- Cardamom: pleasanrly warm, sweet and spicy
aroma.
- Coconut: graced and dried coconut meat is
referred co as copra. Very rich in fibre (13.6 g
in 100 g).
- Coriander seed: smooch, swecrish and aromatic
in Aavo ur.
- Cloves: serong, spicy, warm and aromatic
Aavour. Cloves are che dried buds of rhe clove
rree. These buds release rhe best flavour in a
warm environmenc.
- Caraway: ~picy, anise-like, sweet Aavour.
- Turmeric: is mildly birrer in Aavour.
- Lavender: there are ar lease 250 diffcrene
varieeies.
- Lime: in ehe kitchen limes arc nor as versatile
as lemons; limes concain more calcium,
pocassium and phosphorus rhan lemons.
They also have a high viramin C concenr.
- Mahaleb: ground powder of cherry pies.
Typical plcasanc flavour.
- Mango: sweet aromatic with a hint of peach.
Sweet aroma. "rhe Aavour depends on che
rurpenrine conrenc, which in high-quality
varieties must be low. Mango conrains
enzymes char break down proteins. That is
why ie is difficult co combine mango wieh
dairy produces. For use in dairy produces
ic is besc eo first blanch che mango, chereby
making che proteases inactive.
- Mascicha: resin from the mastic tree.
H as a typical Aavour very much appreciated
in Mediterranean councries.
- Nurmeg: is che dried seed of ehe cree,
surrounded by a hard shell. The cover of
the nuemeg is referred co as mace.
- Paprika powder: savoury, quite sweet Aavour.
- Passion fruic (or granad illa): fresh and sou r
flavour. Coma ins plemy of vicam in C.
- Pistachio: source of calcium, magnesium and
especially vicamin A. Contains an exceptional
amo unr of ascorbic acid.
- Rose: rhe rose fruit is referred ro as rose hip.
There are many varieties of roses. In che
kitchen rypically swcecbriar and wild roses
are used.
- Rosemary: pungent, spicy and slighcly
camphor-like aroma.
- Saffron: genuine saffron castes aromatic,
spicy, not sharp with a slight bitter couch
and intense smell. Warning! Very frequently
bastard saffron is offered for sale, referred to
as saAor. It only provides colour bur no flavour
co che recipes.
- ·rhyme: highly aromatic smell, use in very
small quantities. Goes with liqueur and wine
combinacions.
- Tonka bean: exrremely aromatic wich pleasant
flavour. ls banned in several counrries due to
its carcinogenic properci~. Is banned from
this book for the same reason.
- Cranberries: fruit y, tart aroma.
- Fennel: easces like anise.
fresh mine: comes in several varieeies.
Mosely has a sharp pungent odour.
- Violets: for culinary applications che sweet
violet (viola odorata) is the only fragranr
violet.
- Elderberries: high vitamin C conrenr.
"The berries must fi rsr be cooked in order
to remove rhe mild ly poisonous subsrances.
- Liquorice: concains a sweetener d1ac is 30 to
50 times stronger than sucrose. This sweetener
(glycyrrhi:z.inic acid) increases blood pressure.
Liquorice is good for the stomach and digescive
tract.
Warning! Spices arc ofren heavily bacrcriolo-
gically concaminated. Cooking chem with rhe
mixrnre is rhe message! Some spices are mildly
poisonous in large quancities. Therefore always
use moderation!
£MULS I P I £ R S

Emulsifiers are addicives chac ensure che bonding

becween rwo non-bondable subscances, which
cherefore can creace emulsions and suspensions.
In other words, they keep rhe parcicles suspended.

Emulsifiers belong co surface-active subscances,

typically wich a lipophile and hydrophile porcion.
These substances can seccle around dividing layers
between watery and farcy pares or berween liquid
and solid pans. Emulsifiers are often used in
food, for example ro keep products moist or farry,
as in pastries or bread, or co diluce fac-soluble
substances wicb water, as is che case for ganache.

For ganaches, lecithin and egg yolks are che two

most frequently used emulsifiers. They ensure
rhe proper bonding between fats and water.

' If you can process a lot of fruccosc in a ganache recipe, you

wi ll achieve a low Aw value. Thac is why che use ofisoglucose
is so attractive, as it contains between 70 and 80% fruccosc.
EMULS I FY I NG I NGREDI E NTS
If a cold liquid (cooked and cooled) is added
ro melced chocolate, the chocolare will at first
become quite thick. The ganache then finds itself
in a melted fac phase in which warer drops are
emulsified.
If more liquid is added, the mixrure will
become rhinner and at the same time, darker.
The emulsion is now reversed, in orher words,
a water phase is created in which the chocolate
(far phase) is cmulsi ficd. If you make sure
char during blending the temperature remains
under 32°c (90°F), rhe mixture will be tempered.
The chocolate is left in drop form in the watery
liquid.
If a boiling liquid is poured onto solid chocolate,
rhe larrcr will melt and will emulsify at once in
che wacery liquid. If, however, rhe remperarure
is too high, the ingredients in rhe chocolate will
also dissolve in che watery phase. 'lhe ganache
can curn quicc dark, since rhe dry, far-free
cocoa comes inro concacr wirh rhe water No
more chocolate drops will cherefore be present.
This nearly always implies chat the ganache is
no longer tempered.
If warm chocolate is mixed wich a warm liquid,
or if the chocolate is allowed to become coo
hot during processing (lefr too long in che food
processor), che chocolace will dissolve complecely
and che ganache will nor be cempered.
FAT MIXTURES ANO T H EIR IMPORTANCE
IN GANACHE
The most important facs in a traditional ganache
are cocoa bucrer and milk far. In addition, other
fars, such as oils (from nuts) and coconut fac,
can also be present.
The presence of milk far drastically lowers the
melting poinc of cocoa buccer. The more milk far
in the ganache, the lower rhe melting poinc of
rhe mixrure of cocoa burcer and milk far.
Adding coconut far also has a similar effect.
Even adding small quantities of coconur fa t
will lower rhe mclcing point of rhe fat phase.
The presence of milk fat, coconut far or palm
oil makes tempering che ganache more difficult.
In some cases che temperature can drop co 20°c
(68°1') for proper tempering.
Traditional oils such as sunAower, soya,
rapeseed, corn and nut oils, have a much less
significant effect on che melting point of cocoa
butcer. They do make che cocoa bucrer softer,
buc che oil portion in the mixture does noc
crystallise. These oils have less of an impacr on
chc cryscallisarion behaviour of the cocoa but Ler
rhan milk far or coconur. The mixture of cocoa
butter and oil primarily maintains the structure
of cocoa bu1cer and cherefore wiU stay relatively
firm.
·n1e corresponding rable and graphic (page 31)
show the connection between the quantity of
cocoa butter and rhe consistency of rhe ganache.
From rhis ir appears diat:
- che ganache will become firmer if more cocoa
buner is added;
- che ganache will become softer if more mi lk far
is added.
The following cable and graphic (page 32) show
the connection bcrwccn the quantity of milk far
and the consistency of rhe ganache.
From rhis ir appears chat:
- the far conccnc of cream vers us the cocoa butcer
content of chocolate clearly has less of an
effect on rhe consistency of che ganachc;
- che Aw value increases if more cocoa buuer
is added;
- the Aw value drops if more milk fat is added.
iooogcrcam iooogcrcam rooogcl"C'am iooogcrcam 1ooogcrcam

I 0,926 2 0,908 4 o,881 4 o,86o 6 0,838

1000 gchoc 36% 1250 gchoc 15oogchoc 1750 gchoc 20oogchoc

i ooogcream 35 % iooogcruun iooogcream rooogcream 1ooogcrcam

I 0,936 2 0,921 4 o,90s s o,88s 7 o,8so

1000 gchoc 40% 125ogchoc 1500 gchoc 1750 gchoc 2000 gchoc
1ooogcream 35 % rooogcrcam 1ooogcream 1ooogaeam 1ooogcream

2 0,940 3 0,928 4 0,909 s 0,896 7 0,864

1000 gchoc 43% 1250 gchoc 15oogchoc P5ogchoc i.ooogchoc

rooogcrcam 35 % 1ooogcream 1ooogaetm 1ooogcream 1ooogcream
curdled' curdled' curdled' curdled'

0,962 4 o,9s2 4 0,938 6 0,929 7 0,896

Very firm 7
Very firm 6
Good firm ness for piping and cuccing pralines

Good for moulded pralines 4

Soft shape 3
Very soft shape 2

Too sofc, can be placed in the mould,

but is difficult to d o5C

L8n 28% cocoa butter

8rr 36% cocoa butter

40% cocoa bucter

43% cocoa butter

1150 g choc. i 500 g choc. 1750 g choc. 2000 g choc.
 %milkfat !Balls!! Ughr grain ~]

1000 gchoc 36% 1250 gchoc 1500 gchoc 175ogchoc 2000 gchoc
rooog cream 20% rooogcream rooogcream rooogaeam rooogcream
8;n
I 0.949 2 0.941 4 0.925 4 ! o.9n 5 0.987

rooo gchoc 36% 1250 gchoc 1500 gchoc 1750 gchoc 2000 gchoc
10oogcream 35% rooogcream 1ooogcream 1ooogcream moogcream
··································• .... , ..........................
I !! 0.940 3 !! 0.922 4 0.907 4 o.886 5 0.865

1000 gchoc 36% 1250 gchoc 1500 gchoc 1750 gchoc 2000 gchoc
10oogm:am 40% rooogcream 1ooogcream iooogaeam iooogcream

jI 0.934 3 0.903 4 0.897 s 0.874 s 0.859

2 3 4 6 7

Too soft, can Very sofc shape Soft shape Good for Good firmness Quire firm Very firm
be placed in rhc moulded pralines for piping and
mould, bur is curring pralines
difficult to dose

I.OOO

0.975

0.875
L811 28% cocoa burcer
0.850
811 36% cocoa butter

40% cocoa butter

0.815
43% cocoa butter

Aw 1250 g choc. 1500 g choc. 17 50 g choc. 2000 g choc.

THE PRECRYSTALLISING OF GANACHE
You can ofren read in trade lirerarure rhac, as
soon as rhe ganache is prepared, ic is poured imo
frames, and lefr co crysrallise for 12 co 24 hours.
Non-precrysraliised ganaches are never as scable
and creamy in srruccure as rhose rhac underwenr
slighr precryscaliisarion in order co creare che
stable f3 seed crystals of cocoa butter. These
crystals will ensure chat che ganache will achieve
irs correct cream iness and sliceabiliry.
In addition this long waiting period - before
being able to cur che ganache - can result in
rhe pernicious side-effeccs of comamination.
The ganache is lefr unnecessarily long in an
environmem rhac is highly bacreriologically
comaminated. The air is full offungi and
bacreria. Lighr shortens rhe life span of the
ganache and a slighr cruse can appear on ics surface,
which promoces ics drying and granulacing.
Tesrs have clearly shown rhar such a precrysrallised
ganache has a longer shelflife rhan a non-
precryscallised ganache. The ganache stays more
stable in climace Aucruarions and will noc dry
our as quickly. Mose of rhe cime, precryscallised
ganache has a more pleasanr aroma and
smoothness in the mouth.
lf you wish to process chocolate inro a high-
qualiry product, ic must be precryscall ised.
In ganache this is nor only necessary for the
cocoa bucrer in rhe chocolate, bur also for all
facs present. The fat present in ganache is most
often a mixture of several fats. Cocoa burrer
can be discinguished, milk fac from cream or
bucrer, a nd sometimes also oils from nucs or
other sources.
The higher rhe number of differem fats
combined, rhe slower the crystallisation process
will be and the lower che temperacure muse be
brought in order co be able co creare rhe ~seed
crystals.
Precrysrallisacion is che preparation process
co convert chc cocoa buccer in che chocolace,
rogciher wirh rhe other facs prcscnc, into their
besc crystal form 1 .
For optimal resulcs, melted fats muse be
precrystallised. Precrystallising implies rhac
a small required quanricy of seed cryscals are
produced. As soon as chese seed crystals are
presenr, they will first slowly begin co multiply.
The more crystals are created, rhe faster rhey
grow until the entire mass is filled with crys tals.
T he ganache is then fully cryscallised and will
have achieved its opcimal qualicies.
'Jhac is why it is absolutely necessary to cemper
ganaches if you aim co achieve 1he following
optimal qualicies:
- Gloss for glazing ganaches
- C utting firmness for cuccing ganaches
- Final consistency rhac will provide rhe ganache
with beccer resiscance during scorage
- Release of aroma
- Smoother in the mouth
- Longer shelf life
If you do not precryscallise or do so poorly or
insufficiently, it could resu lt in che following
drawbacks:
- Lack of gloss
- Grey/white colouring
- Sensitive co rhe couch (melts quickly when
couched)
- Grainy structure possible (coarse far balls)
- Unstable texture rhac cou Id shorcen shelf life
- Quicker to dry our
- rinished chocolaces display fat bloom more
qui ckly
The reason why professionals prefer co allow che
ganache co resc longer rhan co have co precrystal-
lise ic, can be explained by rhe face char they can
pour the ganache more accractively and longer
inco frames a nd smooch ic our. Furthermore che
ganache Aows beccer a nd more evenly into the
choco late shells. TI1is is righc, bur you will have
che negacive consequences d escribed above.
How to precrysra llise a ganache? There are cwo
options:
- Ensure char che cocoa butter in che chocolace
is nor decrystallised. In chis case you have to
cool the liquids sufficiendy co approximacely
30°c (86°F) before folding them inro rhe
precrystallised chocolace.
- The ganache muse be precrysrallised. This
can be done by cooling the warm ganache as
quickly as possible (for example by spreading
it on a tray, covering ir wich cellophane and
leaving ic co cool uncil slight crysrallisarion
rakes place around che edges). Subsequenrly
by removing ir quickly from che rray into
a bowl, mi xi ng it quickly and processing it
immediarely.
Example:
A ganache made from 1000 g cream (40%) and
2000 g chocolate (36%) has and Aw \'alue of 0.843
if nor precrysrallised.
In a p recryscallised ganache chis number is 0.828.
In homogenised and precryscallised ganac he it is
0.820.
TH£ H OMOCEN I S I NG OF GANAC H C
Homogenising is che process of crearing as
many equal fine parcides offac and moiscure as
possible, resulting in the ganache becoming a
more homogeneous mixture of fine subsrances.
In th e dairy induscry, milk is homogenised in
order to blend the fac ingrediencs in milk (mi lk
far) and rhe watery ingredienrs inro a very fine
emulsion. This is achieved by pushing rhe milk
under high cemperatures and pressure eh rough
a sieve wich very fine holes in order co create
small far balls. This merhod does nor apply co
che creacion of ganache since, concrary ro milk,
ganache concains quire a number of dry sub-
srances and viscosi ty is high. Numerous ga nache
composicions, however, are ar rheir best if rhcy
are homogenised. In praccice, rhis implies that
when you have created a ganache, and you
blend it brieAy in rhe food processor or orh er
mixer, you will achieve a nice smooch rexture.
Many chocolaciers jusc place a ll rhe ganache
ingredienrs in che food processor and pour the
boiled cream onco ic, immediately running the
processor for a few minuces. This is perfect as
long as che final remperacure has nor melced
away all crystals. Iris possible char, as a result of
the high cream cemperarure and the high speed
of che processor, che ganache is decrysraJlised,
and ic is recommended co subsequencly slighcly
precrysrallise it.
However, chis is not possible for all recipes.
There are exceptions with which che ganache
can curdle. 'lhese will be ganaches in which the
quancicies of far, moiscure and dry subscances
are nor equally balanced, or where che pH of
one of the ingredients is quire low. Noe all food
processors are created equal eicher. The food
processor muse be ficced wirh sharp blades char
are able ro rocace ac very high speeds, such as
processors rocacing ac 3000 revolutions per
minute {see www.robor-coupe.fr).
GANACHES CREATED UN DER VACUUM
If you make ganache the traditional way, it
will always be exposed ro the surrounding air.
In order ro blend in che ingrediencs, rhey are
mixed thoroughly, allowing extra air robe
added ro rhe ganache. This will ofcen result
in minimal local foam scruccure, which has
negative consequences for shelflife.
- The air is obviously highly polluced wich
microorganisms, which come into concact
with the warm ganache. "!he high tempe-
rature will destroy che major pare of these
organisms, but germs will remain in a
larenc scare. Ou ring rhe cooling process rhe
temperacure slowly drops. As soon as rhe
cemperacure drops below 80°c (176°F), an
ideal cemperacure climate is created for che
slow developmenc of chese microorganisms.
l11ar is why ir is recommended ro always cool
ganaches as quickly as possible in order ro
avoid che warm range between 80°c (176°F)
and 20°c {68°F).
- In traditional working methods che oxygen
presenc in rhe air comes inco conracc wirh che
ganache in the same way. The unsaturated
faery acids absorb the oxygen and can speed up
oxidacion, in orher words shorten rhe shelf life
of the ganache.
In the prepararion of ganache under vacuum,
rhe air is removed before initiating rhe
blending process. This will limit the addition
of germs and oxygen ro a minimum. In some
cases air is replaced with nitrogen or carbon
dioxide. Obviously ar the end of the mixing
process, air is somerimes re-supplied . It goes
without saying char rhis air conrains just as
many microorganisms and oxygen, bur if the
prepared ganache undergoes as few manipula-
rions as possible, contamination is reduced to
a minimum. Of course, the ganache muse be
cooled jusc as quickly and procecced against ics
external enemies, i.e., air and lighr. fc is preferable
co add nitrogen and carbon dioxide, instead of
air, co the processor at che end of rhe mixing
process before opening the processor. This allows
rhe ganache to be minimally contaminated by
air. Another advancage of exrra fast processing
under vacuum is the berrer preservacion of the
aromas. Here the "robot-Coupe" with its speed
of 3000 revolutions per minuce is one of the top
processors. l11e high RPMs allow for che perfect
homogenisation of che ingredients present in
the recipe.
Since a minimum amount of air is (or can be)
presenr in ganache prepared under vacuum,
chis ganache will be more malleable. ·n1 is
malleabilicy has advamages and disadvantages
for the chocolaciers. On the one hand che
ganache has a somewhat heavier texture,
on the other hand it is easier to pipe in piping
and dosing machines.
The working method to prepare ganache under
vacuum differs slighrly from che traditiona l
method. In this mecl1od al l ingredients are placed
in the bowl, che boiled cream is added and che
machine is sealed hermetically. Subsequently the
air is removed and che processor switched on ro
high-speed unril the ganache is homogeneous.
Subsequently the ganache must be cooled as
quickly as possible before its final descinarion.
The disadvantage of this traditional method is
char cocoa burrer decryscallises as a resu lt of the
heat created by the fast-rotating blades and the
addition of the boiled liquid. 1n order to prevent
the temperacure from exceeding 30°c (86°F) after
ho moge nisarion in the processor, is is very handy
ro add the chocolate a nd as many other cooled
ingredients as possible from rhe recipe ro the
processor bowl. To th is end keep everything in
the refrigerator prior to use, allowing the ganache
t0 remain precryscallised.
MAKING GANACH£S LIGHTER
Firm, heavy ga naches are sometimes made lighter
in order ro achieve a pleasant mousse scruccure.
Since the volume is increased, costs are also
lowered. A number of negative aspects are a lso
linked co this, however. 1l1e creams do gee airier,
bur this airiness mosc often shorrens shelf life.
This implies that if there is not enough ingre-
dient stability in the recipe, the ganache will dry
out sooner, resulting in the slight collapse of the
chocolate layer. The pralines will look old and can
no longer be sold.
The airiness can be achieved in two ways:
- Whip the fully cooled ganache in che
processor. In some recipes the volume can
be increased by 50%. In order to mainrain
rhe foamy srrucrure, a sufficient number of
srabilising ingredients muse be present in rhe
recipe. The main ones are: chocolate, cocoa
butter, butter and glucose. 111e disadvantage
of this method is that it drastically shortens
shelf life, since rhe oxygen in the air results
in the faster oxidation of the facs and the
ganache will rnrn rancid. The supplied air
is bacceriologically impure.
- A somewhat becrer method is co mix the
ganache with a cream with a certain basic
srabil iry, a frappe. The quantity of frappe to be
added depends on the airiness you wish co give
 ro rhe ganache and is rherefore highly personal.
These frappes are available on rhe marker in
some countries, bur if you are unable ro find
rhem, you can simply make rhem yourself.
Recipe I
rrickle che syrup onro rhe foam. Leave rhe
mixmrc co bear a furrher IO m inutes.
If you have a facilicy to mix under vacuum,
che resulc will obviously be even better.

10 g agar agar T H .E CU RD LIN G OF GA NAC H E

500 g warer
1000 g sucrose
500 g glucose Why does ganache curdle?
150 g egg whire 2
Because fac docs not mix with water, the
Allow the agar agar co swell for one day in warer. excremely small far particles in an att ractive,
Bri ng rhe mixrure co che boil, add che sucrose smooth ganache, are surro unded by a t hin film
and concinue ro hear co 108°c (226.4°F). Remove of water. The farrier rhe ga nache, rhe t hinner the
from che hear and fold in rhe glucose. In rhe water film. Curd li ng is che mecha nical disruption
meantime, bear rhe egg whires and rrickle che of chis balance. The emulsion becween the fine
syrup on chem. far drops in a liquid (or vice versa) is d isturbed
by a change in dimension of the fat particles.
Recipe 2 The larger rhe fa r parcicles, rhe sma ller che coral
far surface, resu lting in che creation of a water
200 g water surplus, as ir were. This water results in curd ling.
roo g albumin3
2000 g sucrose In order co smooth out rhe curd led ganache, it
600 g warer is necessary to make the far particles as sma ll as
3000 g glucose possible. There are various opt ions to ach ieve chis.

Allow che albumin ro melr in rhe cold warer
before bearing ir inro foam. In rhe meantime
also cook rhe sucrose wirh che wacer co uo0 c
(230°F). Add che glucose and leave co cool co
approx imately 70°c (r58°F). Trickle onro che
foam and mix for a furcher ro minuces or so.
Recipe3
750 g water
50 g Hyfoama os 4
r250 g powdered sugar
3500 g sucrose
1250 g wacer
7000 g glucose
Mix che Hyfoama and che powdered sugar
inco che wacer. Bear inro firm foam.
Hear che sugar and warer co r r 1-1 r2°c
(231.8-233.6°F). Add rhc glucose and
Before being able to give a suitable answer, rhe
cause must fi rst be identified.
What could be the causes>
r If rhe far/moiswre concem is nicely balanced,
an incorrect mechankal movement could bring
rhe far particles rogerher and create la rger
parcicles, chereby rejeccing wate r.
2 If a cold ingredient is added to a ga nache wich
a nicely balanced far/moiscure ratio, the fac
parcicles can form groups, making them larger,
chereby rejecting waccr.
3 If rhe moisture/fa r content a nd t he dry su b-
stances are nor balanced , cu rd ling ca n ens ue. It
is possible rhac there is roo much far compa red
to waccr and furthermore there are coo few d ry
substances, which help to provide a cercain
bond between moisrure a nd fac. If there is a
 sufficienc amoum of dry subsrances, which
ensure rhe better disrribucion of moisture,
the warer is prevented from accumulating.

4 If rhe pH of rhe liquid phase is lower t han

pH 4.8 die cream will destabilise (rhe
curdling of the milk/cream rakes place wirh
a pH of 4.75).

If a ganache is nor or poorly rempered, rhe

created unsrable fat crystals can also create a
water surplus, since the larcer are larger in size
rhan rhe srable crystals and rherefore create a
smaller fac surface.

How to avoid curdling)

- Make sure rhe recipe is balanced, this means

char is at least 'h of rhe roral consists of dry
substances. The remaining 2/i are discribured
rhroughour rhe fat and moiscure.
- If die quantity of dry substances is rather
low, a small quantity of lecithin may be
required.
A ganache recipe rhar is nicely balanced,
is easiesr ro homogenise. l11is means char
wirh rapid mechanical movements, you can
make rhe far parricles as small as possible,
resul ring in rhe far being better discribured
chroughour che other ingredients present. In
practice this means char you have ro briefly
mix che ganache in a food processor or using
a hand mixer at the highest speed. Good
results are only possible by using blades in rhe
processor. The use of a palerce kn ife promotes
curdling.

What to do ifthe ganache still curdles?

First look for che possible reason from rhe

1 High·quali[y homogeneous ganache 6ve aforemencioned causes, and subsequently
2 High· quali[y homogeneous ganache gready determine which one mosr corresponds to rhe
magnified tmder a s1ereomicroscope. BROWN: possible solutions below.
dry fac-free co coa. WHITE: sugar crystals,
l, IGHT•BLUE: water Do noce chac chis aid is a possible solucion.
Curdled ganache. The ligl11-blue wa1er concencracion The reason for curdling, however, will become
is clearly visible in an environment of cocoa parricles, complex if a combinacion of rhe aforementioned
sugar cryscals and fac concentra tions. faccors is rhe cause.
r For incorrecr mechanical movemenrs,
rhe addirion of a lirrle lecichin can help.
2 If the curdling was caused by adding a cold
(or colder) ingredienr ro rhe ganache, chere
are chree oprions:
- Very slighrly hear rhe rim of rhe bowl in order
ro melr a very small quanrit)' of far particles.
Subsequently srir thoroughly using a bearer.
- For very small quanriries of ganache add a
lirde hor liquid unril rhe ganache is smooch.
Subsequently add a very small quanrity of
curdled ganache and scir unril smooch. Keep
on repeating by adding a small quanriry each
rime. Especially in rhe beginning only add
small quanriliei> of curdled ganache. As soon as
you have more volume, you can slowly increase
the remaining quanriry robe added.
- Creare a very small new ganache recipe,
subsequenrly mix in a licrle curdled ganache
and continue as described above.
3 If rhe moiscure/far and dry subsrance ratio is
nor balanced, you can:
- add a lirrle hor liquid (see poinr 2)
- slighrly hear rhe rims of rhe bowl (see poinr 2)
- add a lirrle lecithin
- use condensed miJk insread of cream
4 ff rhe p11 is coo low, add some bak ing soda,
which you should firsr dissolve in a liule liquid.
Curdling due ro incorrect stirring or stirring
wirh the incorrect rools (spoon, spatula):
- Place rhe ganache in rhe refrigeracor unril
slighc crysrnllisarion of the fars around che
edges of rhe bowl. Subsequently quickly scir
rhe ganache and process immediarely, since rhe
crysrallisacion process will quickly crysrallise
the ganache, making it difficult 10 handle.
6 Non-cempered or poorly cempered ganache:
- Place rhe ganache in rhe refrigeracor unril
slight crystallisarion of rhe fats around the
edges of rhe bowl. Subsequenrly quickly stir
che ganache and process immediarely, since
rhe crysrallisarion process will quickly
crysrallise rhe ga nache, making ic difficulc ro
handle.
C H ANCES I N RE C IP ES
You can enrich the ganache by adding, besides
chocolate and cream, all manner of other
substances. You can do so:
- co c reace a personal, exclusive or special
ganache (see Fruiry ganaches and Ganaches
wirh stimulating properties);
- 10 adjust rhe srrucrurc whether for commercial
purposes or nor (sec Making ganaches lighre r);
- co extend shelf life (see Shelf life of ga nachcs);
- co lower che cosc price;
- for specific applications, such as: cuning
ganaches, moulded pralines, for glazing
(see Glazing ganachcs), ganaches as a sandwich
spread (see Ganaches as a sandwich spread
in Fine chocolntes- grent experience Pare 1);
~ co meec cechnical requiremen ts, if the ganachc
is to be processed mechanically as in an
extruder or piping machine.
You can also replace certain ingredienrs for:
- health reasons (sec Laccose-free ganaches
and Ganaches wirhout added sugars);
- religious reasons (see Lacwse-free ga nachcs).
T H E S HELF LI FE OF CANAC H ES
'!he shel rlifc of ganachcs is always limiced.
Even under the most stringent measures with
respect co hygiene and srorage conditions mosr
ganaches cannor be kepi for momhs.
·1he processes char limit shelf life, can be
subdivided inro three caregories:
- Microbial dereriorarion
~ Chemical dererioration
- Physical deceriorarion
Ofren rhese processes occur in combination or
in successio n.
M I C RO BIAL DETER I ORATION
Microbial d ereriorarion is obviously caused by
microorganisms. These can be fungi, yeasts or
bacreria. l hey can end up in the produce eh rough
che ingredients, che environment, the machines
o r personnel.
A number of spectacu la r examples of microbial
dece ri ora rio n a re rhc following:
~ Fungal g rowth on t he concacc surface between
centre a nd chocolare shell.
~ Bursiing pralines due ro gas formation.
Osmophile yeasrs convert sugars into
co 2 gas.
~ ·1he souring of cream fill ings. Lactic acid
bacteria conven sugars into organic acids.
IL i5 imporcanr to mencion char this form of
deteriorat io n only ma kes rhe product unplea-
sant, b ur d ocs no r create a ny med ical problems.
N o foodstuffs a re free fro m m icroorganisms.
A nu mber of germs are always presenc. '!hat is
w hy ir is imponanc ro keep rhe conditions so chat
the exiscing organisms are unable to multiply
and spoil che produce. Depending on che rypes of
organisms, they require water and food produces
(sugars, facs, protein, oxygen) co develop.
Nu me rous microorgan isms do not require oxygen
in order to d evelop. Thar is why c reating cencres
und er vacuum is nor a lways sufficient ro fight
m icroorga n isms.
Temperature has a clear impact on 1he multi-
p lication speed and acriviry of microorganisms.
25°c ac 40°c (77°F at IO-l°F) is an ideal growrh
temperature for numerous microorgan isms.
Refrigerator temperatures slow down rhe growrh
of mic roorga nisms, bur only deep freeze cempe-
racures stop all microbial proces5es. Good scorage
cond irions for chocolare produces are berween 10
a nd 20°c (50°P co 68°r). They on ly somewhar slow
down, in the best of circumsrances, che growth of
microorganisms.
The quanricy of available wacer is a very
imponanr facror in microbial deterioration
and is obviously highly dependenr on moisrure
concem, but also on che narure of che ocher
subsrances.
I\ lose ganache recipes contain quice a lor of wacer
from rhe ingredients. For it is waccr chat provides
chc ganache wirh irs pleasanc, creamy, smooth
and lighc srruccure. le is rherefore correcr rhat
warer is rhc culture medium for numerous mi-
croorganisms such as fungi, yeascs and dangerous
bacteria (such as salmonella and lisreria). The
facr is that numerous ingredients - among which
cream, milk, burter, pure fruit juice or fruic pulp,
ccc. - arc mainly made up of water.
The coral moisture conrenr of a recipe only
provides limiced informarion on ics shelf life.
Shelf life acrually depends o n che quamiry of
water available co microorga nisms a nd chemica l
reactions.
\Y1tuer ncti11iry and its microbncteriologicnl impact
le is not so much the warer quanriry in a recipe
rhar shorcens shelf life, bur che acciviry of wacer
in the filling, which plays an imporranr role
in chc storage process.
lhe grcarer che water acrivicy in a centre,
rhe grcarer che odds che cenrre will conrain
microorganisms afcer a few days or weeks,
which can have very damaging resulrs for
consumers or which can affecc chc appearance
of the praline (e.g., bursting open). If you
wish to create ganachcs rhac are 100% safe for
consumption for ac lease chree weeks ro one
monrh, ir b of the utmosc imporrance co limic
warer activity. lhis is possible by dissolving
warer-soluble dry mass in che water or liqu id.
In ochcr words, rhe ingrediencs used in a recipe
all have a different capacity ro bind w irh water
unril chey are saturaced. Excess wacer is wacer
available for microbial deteriorarion.
lhe an is co use as many ingredients as possible
in a ganache recipe chac have the propcrries to
bond with wacer. The main ingredienrs char
can be used in ganaches, are the following:
all sugars, salts (sodium chloride, baking soda)
and proceins. Among sugars the preferred "wa-
rer binders" arc glucose, sorbirol and glycerol.
Since rhey have a low sweerening power and
creare a balance in rhe relarive humidiry of rhe
ganache. In this way che centre will neicher
absorb nor release moismre ro irs environment.
By saturating the liquids in rhe cenrre, a balance
in relarive humid icy is achieved. Such a ganache
will at room remperacure and in srable climate
condicions neither absorb nor release moisture
ro che cnvironmenc. In pracrice borh goals are
achieved by:
- adding 10% sorbicol to the moiscure quantity
in ganaches.
- adding 50% corn syrup co rhe moiscure
quanriry in ganaches.
Water activity in the fillings is measured by the
temperature whereby the filling is distributed and
sold (mostly :t 18°c or 64.4°F). They arc rcAecced
on a sea le from o to 1:
- whereby o means a complete dry mass or solid
ingrediems;
- whereby 1 stands for 100% wacer;
- whereby 0.5 stands for a solution, which
corresponds to che activity of 50% free water.
All gradations between o and 1 arc rhcrefore
solutions, sarurared to a greacer or lesser degree
by disso lving dry components in chem. The
greater the water acrivicy, the faster specific fungi,
yeasts and other bacceria chrive in che ganache
and over cime will harm che ganache.
If che water activity is lower than o.6 no
live organisms can thrive in the liquid and
microbacreriological growrh/dereriorarion is
excluded.
Water accivicy Microbiological presence
> 0,9 Bacteria {e.g., salmonella,
lis1eria, ere.)
> o,8 Fungi
> 0,75 Yeasts
> o,6 Osmoph ile yeasts and
fungi
Therefore you can carefully assume char if:
- rhe Aw> 0.85 rhe ganache can be kepr for a
maximum of 3 weeks;
- Aw berween 0.85 and 0.70, maximum 3
months;
- Aw becween 0.70 and 0.65, from 6 to 9
monchs;
- Aw< 0.65 rhe ganache is microbially stable.
Water activity in g111111ches
Centres of which che dissolved, fixed componencs
concenc in wacer is higher cha11 75%, fall wichin a
water accivicy of o.6 or lower and cherefore have
quire a long shetr life.
Remember, however: a sucrose/corn syrup, made
up, for example of 75% sucrose and 25% water is
NOT a good example! Sucrose/glucose ar a rem-
peracure of 20°c is on ly 66.6% soluble in water.
lbe remaining ~ucrose/glucose remains presenr
in che form of non-dissolved sugar crysrals (in
this case approx. 25'lo). ·1 herefore be careful with
ganaches: these are emulsions of water and far
(in cream or bucrer, for example), in which rhe
far does ' OT dissolve in water! Therefore fac
has no effecr on wacer acrivily! When mixing
cream and chocolate alone, a large quancily
of warer or rnoiscure remains subjecc ro water
acriviry.
Wacer activity also plays a major role in rhe
appearance and physical properties of a praline.
- The more warcr a ganache contains, the greacer
rhe chances ic will release moisture co the
environmenc. This causes drying, hardening,
possible sugars can cryscallise ... which affects

the rexcure, casce and appearance of the
pralines.
- Conversely, a ganache with low water
activity, depending on its composition,
can be hygroscopic and absorb moisture
from its environmenr. This can obviously
also lead to the development of germs,
bacteria, ere.
The calculation or measuring ofthe Aw l'lllue
For simple sugar solucions you can, in theory,
calculace the Aw value. Given che complexity
of a ganache due co che difference solubilities
of che various sugars and ocher ingredienrs it
is nor possible to calculate an Aw value. If you
wish to know che Aw value of a product, you will
have to have it measured by a specialist food lab.
The purchase of an Aw meter is only justified if
you use it frequently. For furcher informacion,
see: www.decagon.com, www.aci n.nl and www.
humancorp.co.
The measuring principle is simple: ar 20°c (68°F),
for example (che Aw is cemperarure-depcndenr!)
fill a measuring cell with che produce robe
reseed. Afrer some rime has elapsed measure
che relacive humidiry in che closed headspace
of che measuring cell. The value indicated, is
rhe Aw value.
For furcher information abouc water accivicy, see
Fine chocolates - grent experience Parr 1.
How to exrmd the shelflife ofganaches?
Shelflife can be extended by:
- Councering che presence and growrh of micro-
bacreriological organisms by lowering water
aclivicy. In practice rhis is done by sacuracing
che water in the filling as much as possible with
soluble, solid subscances unril 75% is reached.
From rhen on water activicy is redu ced ro o.6
 and microbacterial concamination risks no
longer play a role. Sucrose combined with
sugar subscimtes and saturated sugar solutions,
such as corn syrup, inverc sugar, dextrose, etc.,
are ideal.
, Creating a balance in relative humidiry5
of rl1e ganache, in order for moisture not
co be withdrawn from or released co the
enviconmenc. By samracing che liquids in
the filling, a balance in relacive humidity
is reached in which a cencre ac room
cempcrarurc, and in scable climace condicions,
will nor withdraw from/release moiscure co
che environment.
ln practice borh goals arc achieved by:
, in a ganache, replacing 50% of the sugar quanciry
with corn syrup <?r glucose powder (dextrose);
adding roo/o sorbicol co the moismrc quanciry
in ganaches;
adding LO% glycerin co che moismre quantity
in ganaches;
, adding 50% corn syrup to che moisture
quanciry in ganaches.
adding 15% alcohol co che moiscure quantity
in ganaches.
CHEMLCAL DETERIORATION
The principal form of chem ical dereriora-
cion in chocolace produces is fac oxidation.
A disrinccion must be made becween
oxidative rancidity and hydrolytic rancidity
(saponificacion).
Oxidative rancidity
Conditions for oxidative rancidiry are the
presence of unsacuraced faery acids and oxygen.
This type of oxidacion is inrroduced by lighc,
crace mecal, hear and specific enzymes.
A cypical example is che oxidacion of white
chocolate under che influence of lighc. The
chocolate rums snow whice and acquires che
cypical oxidation flavour. The discolouration
is che resulc of the oxidation of che "natural"
dyes prcsenr in cocoa butcer.
The oxidacion of wh ice chocolate can be avoided
by exposing rhe produce co lighc as litrle as
possible. Finished pralines arc preferably
packaged as soon as possible.
Cocoa concains anrioxidancs by nature
(polyhydroxy phenols}, which protect cocoa
burcer against oxidation. When pressing cocoa
mass into cocoa powder and cocoa buccer che
polyhydroxy phenols remain in powdered
fraction.
Thar is why whicc chocolate is nor procecced
against oxidative rancidity, in concrasc with
milk chocolate and especially dark chocolate.
Hydrolitic rancidity(= sttponification)
The condicion for hydrolicic rancidity is indeed
rhe presence of lipases. These lipases (catalysts)
are primarily of microbial origin. They can eithe r
be prcsem as such in the ingredients or created
through microbial growth in t he chocolate
product.
A second condition is the presence of a certain
amount of moisture. A typical example is rhe
development of rhe soapy Aavou r in fi Iii ngs
wirh a relatively high moisture comem, based
on coconuc fat or milk far. More than 0 .05%
fatry acids from coconuc fac/milk far will create
an obvious soapy rasce.
Since wacer is a reaction partner in hydrolysis,
chis reaction obviously depends on che Aw value.
The higher the wacer acciviry, che higher che
reaction speed .
PHYSICAL DETERIORATLON
Here we can describe a very diverse series
of phenomena: sugarbloom, facbloom,
fac migration, absorption of strange odours,
loss of aroma.
Sugarbloom 6
Sugarbloom is [he phenomenon whereby
chocolare d isplays a grainy white surface.
le is distinguished from fatbloom due to rhe facr
that sugarbloo m does no[ disappear when touched
and feels coarse. The reason for sugarbloom is
moisture condensation on the chocolate surface.
Sugar from the chocolate dissolves in rhe
condensed moisture. When the warer evaporates,
the sugar crystallises on the chocolate surface.7
The only remedy is to avoid condensation by
keeping the moisture comem in rhe air low
or by avoiding great temperature Aucrnarions
(cooling the produces coo long - or che
refrigerator is too humid).
FATBLOOM 8 O N THE C HO C OLATE LAY£R
Facbloom is a phenomenon characterised by
a grey film of fac crystals incrusred on rhe
chocolate surface. Facbloom is created by rhe
recrysralUsacion of rhe far on the chocola[e
surface. 1he chocola[e will slowly lose irs gloss
and furrher develop inro a macce and faccy
surface. Despite rhe recent production dace,
it will look very old.
A ganache wirh a high far content (nor from cocoa
buccer) can soften rhe chocolate shell in pralines
afrer a more or less shorr period. The far presenr in
the ganache will, however, primarily affect dark
chocolate and cause fatbloom. In pralines wirh
a ganache filling rhe farbloom phenomenon will
appear later than in pralines wich nuc fillings,
such as praline-flavoured, marzipan and gianduja.
Yee a lot of actencion must be paid co the correcc
tempering and cooling of the chocolate shell.
Tescs have shown that if the chocolate shell is
insufficiendy cryscallised before piping in the
ganache, che farbloom phenomenon will occur
sooner rather chan later.
Fat migration
Fae migratio n is understood co mean che
transport of specific liquid far fractions from
rhe ganache co the chocolate layer. Fae migration
can lead co che chocolate softening and display-
ing facbloom.
potassium sorbace, only helps against fungi.
In that case che pH of the ganache muse be
under pH 5. The usual dose is 1%0 (around
pH 5 che sorbin acid only works for 6%,
ac higher pH values it becomes min imal).
~ Legal rescriccions. In Europe, for example,
sorbin acid can only be calcu lated on che
portion without chocolate!
Please consulc national legislation. Other
means co extend shelf life, can be found in Fine
chocolates - great experience Part 1.

Odour absorption

The last decerioracion category is che absorp-

tion of foreign odours by the chocolate. Some
concaminacions and flavours such as spices and
aromas seem obvious. For some flavour and
odour issues che cause is not all thac easy co
discover. [n mosc cases the cause is a specific
organic molecule, which is absorbed from the
environment eh rough direct concact (e.g., with
che packaging) or eh rough the surrounding
air. In che lase few years an increasing number
of c hemical compounds have been discovered,
which in some cases can conraminace enrire
loads of food products, resulcing in greac losses
and expenses.

P RESERVATIVES

The use of preservacives is always a stopgap

solucion. le is very imporcanc co make the ganache
in a hygienic manner, for example, by working
in a hygienic environment and where possible,
boil the ingrediencs.

The choice of possible preservarives is quire

limited for the following reasons:
~ Most preservatives only work sufficiently
with a low pH value. This low pH causes the
ganache co curdle.
~ Sorbin acid, mosdy used in che form of
1 Fatbloom crystals on chocolate (500 x magnification).
2 Derailed absorpcion of futbloom crystals (rooo x magni-
fica1 ion). Phocos: VLAZ University ofG henc (Belgium).
• '!he precryscallisation of chocolate is discussed
extensively in my first book Fine choco/aus - great experience.
• 100 g egg whire (raw) concains: 87 g water, 11.t g egg
whites, 0.2 g fats and 0.7 g carbohydraces. The rest
consists of minera ls and vitamins.
1
100 g albumin (dried egg whice) concains: 9 g water,
77.3 g egg whices, 0 .1 g fats and 8. r g carbohydrates.
TI1e rest consists of minerals and vitamins. On average
a fresh egg contains approximately 38 g egg white.
• Info Hyfoama: www.kerrygroup.com. For Belgium
and the Nerherlands: www.damco.nl. Commem:
Hyfoama l)S is not kosher. Hyfoama DSNK is kosher.
' Relative humidity: Quantity of water vapour present
in the air, ar the prevailing temperature, expressed in
percentage of the quantity chat would be present at
the same temperature ar sacurarion (100%) .
' Sugarbloom: furchcr information can be found in my
fi rst book Fine chocolates - great experience.
' C hocolate with condensation moisture, packaged
in moisture-proof packaging, can also display fungus.
' Fatbloom: Further information can be found in my
fi rst book Fine chocolates - great experima.
MANUA L
All rhe added praline recipes are brand-new.
1hey have been tested several rimes and tasccd
by a panel of tasters. ll1e recipes arc pro,ided
for documentation purpose~ and can mean a
start for you towards rhcir personalisation or
improvement. You can change rhe spices and
aromas in mosr recipes or adjust rhe quantities
ro suir your own 1ascc.
If invert sugar is mentioned in a recipe and you
arc unable co find ir, you can replace it with an
equal amount of honey. You will have ro take
into account the somecimes overwhelming honey
Aavour.
The types of fruit purees used are available in
specialry s tores in froien form (e.g., Boiron,
Cap'fruir, Ravifruit, etc.).

1 he sequence of ingrediems in a recipe is also

the sequence of processing.

In o rd er co avo id confusion, the liquids, just as

rhe orher ingredients, are expressed in grammes.

If «dark» or «mi lk» chocolacc arc mentioned,

rhis means chat the recipe is based on srandard
couvcrture: dark chocolate wirh approximately
36 co 38% cocoa bucccr, milk chocolate with
approximately 29.50 co 30.50% cocoa bucccr
and a total fat comcnt between 34 and 36%, and
white chocolate between approximarely 28 ro
29.50% cocoa buucr and coca I foe content bcrween
35.50 co 36%. In the orhcr case rhc percentage of
cocoa butrcr is rnenrioned.

The Aw value (warer acriviry) mentioned at rhe cop

of the recipe, provides informacion about chc re-
cipe's bacteriological shelf life. This does nor apply
ro porenrial orher concaminarions, such as odours,
contact with chemicals, moisture, a ir and lighc.
Further in format ion can be fo und in rhc book
Fine chocolates - great experience Parr 1.

Unless mentioned otherwise, sorbicol is under-

stood co be in powder form. If you wish co use
liquid sorbicol, use 25% more rhan rhe indicated
quantity.

If sorbitol is mentioned in the recipe and is nor

available, you can leave ir our withour affecting
the recipe. Shelf life will, however, be somewhac
shortened.
111e familiar confectioners' glucose is referred ro
as corn syrup, with an average of 43°Be. Glucose
in powder form is referred co as dextrose.
VAR I O US M ET H O D S T O TU R N T H E GANAC H E
I NTO A SL A B
1 J\ frame thac fits inro rhe size of che wires
of a wire slicer, will be most economical if
rhe recipe fills che frame. The recipe musr be
calculated in such a way chac chcrc is no loss.
Place a frame on shiny foil or fac-free paper
and pour che prccryscallised ganache inro it.
Using a palerce knife, immediately spread chc
ganachc as well as possible. Subsequendy even
ic out using a rolling pin.
3 If you do nor have access co che
aforementioned opcions, place four rods
of equal thickness in rhe shape of a
frame on shiny foil. Pour in che ganache,
immcdiacely !>pread ic ouc using a palecre k nife,
and smooch ic ouc.
4 If che ganache is coo firm co ap ply rhe
aforemcncioned methods, roll ic our becween
rwo sheers of shiny foil between wh ich you
have placed cwo parallel levelling guides.

2 If you have a recipe char is not suicable for a

frame, use a mernl sheer wich upright edge~.
You will need a rod the length or width of
the sheer in order co be able co delineate the
ganache. le is also necessary to place shinr foil
on chc sheet before pouring che ganache.
51
T H E DIPPI NG O F GANAC H E PRAL I NES
In order ro achieve optimum results, a number of
rules musr be respected.
Jiu pralines to be dipped should not be cold.
\Xl'ith great cemperarure differences between
chocolace and praline, too many unstable crystals
arc formed, resulting in the pralines losing their
gloss and even becoming duU. The chocolate
layer is consequently more prone to fatbloom (sec
more detailed information in my first book Fine
chocolates - great experience).
77Je gannche must be sufficiently crystallised.
Before dipping che pralines imo the chocolate.
che ganache muse have achieved its final firmness.
G.rnachc chat is not precrysrallised, is softer. not
~cable, melts more rapidly and has a shorrer shelf
life than a precrysrallised one (see 1be precryscal-
lising of ganachc, page 34).
'/he pralines must ha11e n chocolate base.
Pro\'iding chem wirh a firm base is absolutely
necessary in order ro prevem the ganache from
sticking ro the fork, which would make dipping
more difficulr.
When dipping mechanically, pralines without
base will mclc on the warm conveyor belc.
ll1e bouom of rhe finished pralines will stick
co the conveyor bclr and rhe melted ganache
will come inro contact with the chocolate
in che machine's receptacle, resulting in the
thickening of rhe chocolate. As a result of this
contamin:uion, rhc chocolare will rapidly acquire
a bad taste.
lhere arc a number of ways to provide the
pralines with a base.
1 Spread precryscallhcd chocolace on a rubber
sccncil with cut-out circles. Carefully remove
rhc sccncil. Leave che circles co cry~tallise
sufficiemly before piping rhe ganache.

2 Pipe large drops of precryMalliscd chocolare

onto the paper and shake che sheet in order to
allow the chocolate circles co become thinner.

3 'lhinly spread out rhe chocolare on a sheec

covered with paper. Allow ro slightly cryscallise
and cut om circles using a round cuccer. Place a 53
second sheet of paper on the circles. Carefully
heat the paper using a hear gun so char che
chocolate slightly sticks to the paper. Place a
sheet on the surface and turn upside down.
Remove rhe top sheer and the paper.

Ill

•
~ •
• ~
FLAVO U R COM BI NATIO NS - Figs + red wine
- Orange+ chili
- Lemon + lavender
Although consumers often remain loyal co - Thyme + honey
traditional Aavours, new uendsener~ are - Banana + cirrus fruits
increasingly popular. Tastes evolve. \Vie have - Banana+ anise
access ro spices from faraway countries, which - Bergamot + lavender/Bergamot +jasmine/
provide us wich new Aavours. Combinations Bergamot + lemon/Bcrgamor +j uniper berry
of fam iliar flavours wich a hinr of chesc spices - Passion fruit + fen ncl
used co be barely known. New flavour profiles - Cherries+ liquorice
are being creaced. le is imporcanr co add only a - Rosemary + aprico1
few of rhese "exclusivities" co an assonmenr of - Cardamom + port wine
pralines. ' they will ensure chac your assortment
is different from che rraditional assorrmenr A few ex11mpl~s ofwhich flavours go with which
created by the comperirion. rhocoln te?

Alchough rhe qucsc for originaliry should noc Dark Milk White
become eccenrric, spices and aromas must be chocolate chocolate chocolate
combined wirh che necessary subrlery and they coffee coffee coffee
may under no circumstances damage the quality mint coconut raspberries
of the products and the technical options. orange orange saffron
pistachio pistachio pisrachio
There are no rules for rhe combinacion of rum rum rum
Aavours. Yee there can be a geographical dif- vanilla van illa ca rdam om
ference in favourite taste paccerns, which ofren banana banana
depends on local availabiliries. In regions where ginger caramel
a specific fruit or spice is culth·ated abundantly, mace cinnamon
these ingredients will be eagerly used. rose cloves
violet nucmeg
A Je1v examples offavourite combinntiom saffron

- Rose+ hint of anise

- Lavender+ anise
- Pine + anise
- Raspberry + saffron/Raspberry +
caramel/Raspberry + fresh mint
- Pear + saffron
- Apple + honey + saffron
- Strawberry + balsamic
- Lime+ fresh mint/Lime+ pistachio/ Lime+
rosemary/Lime+ mango
- Lime zest+ vodka+ laurel/Lime zest+ ginger
- Pineapple+ fennel
- Apricors + curmeric + paprika
- Apricots + rosemary
- Coconut+ coriander/Coconur + rum I
Coconur + vanilla
- Biccer chocolate + olive oil
- Fennel
- Masticha + mahaleb/Masticha + caramel
ORGA N IC GANAC HES
Organic food is a colleccive noun for foodsruffs
char sarisfy specific requirements wirh respecr
ro environment, nacure and landscape, che
well-bei ng of an imals and produccion mechods.
In order ro be able co use che designarion
"organ ic", a guaranteed inspeccion of all rhe
ingred iencs used from culrivacion co end produce.
A cerrificace of auchencicicy is required for all
ingrediencs used in organic culrivarion.
The purchase of organic ingredients is ofren
considerably more expensive rhan non-organic
inspecred ingrediencs. The sales price of rhe end
produce muse be rhoroughly adjusted.
Research has shown char organic food is in any
case healrhier. Organically inspecced food is
rich in foodscuffs char prorecc against cancer.
These foodsruffs are primarily salvesuols and
antioxidants. The salvesrrols are narurally creared
by fruic, vegecables and spices ro procecc againsc
fungi. ff, however, as is cypically rhe case, chey
are rreared wich chemicals co prevenc fungi,
rhey do nor creace salvescrols. Organic food is
nor chemically rreared and is rherefore full of
"essential" substances chat are said co procecc
against cancer.
The following are ingredienrs containing a lot of
salvestrols:
Fruit:
- Raspberries
- Blackberries
- Mulberries
- Apples
- Scrawberries
- Whicecurranr
- C ranberries
- Pears
- Plums
- Grapes
- Mirabelles
- Figs
Spices:
- Basil
- Rosemary
- Thyme
- Sage
- Mint
Tea:
- Verbena
- Rooibos {redbush)
- Dandelion
- Chamomile
- Rose hip
Among antioxidants, primarily polyphenols
protect the body againsr free radicals.
L ACTOSE- FREE GANACHES
These ga naches a re recommended for chose
suffering from lacrose incolerance. These people
can possibly colerace lacrose craces, bur nor great
quancicies.
This does allow rhe use of butter oil (water- free
milk fac 1), si nce in che worse-case scenario this
only concains traces of lactose, bur no milk
ingrediencs.
ff desired, 100% lactose-free ganaches can of
course be created as described below.
111e cream, milk and burrer in rhese recipes
muse be replaced with lactose-free vegerable facs.
Lactose-free vegetable cream, which you can
use for chis purpose, is available on rhe market.
You will scill have co ensure thac the ganache
has enough fat in order co achieve its creamy
properties and texture.
The sofmess or hardness of rhe fats is decisive
for rhe soft, creamy texture and the possible
ease-of-cutting you wish ro g ive ro rhe
ganache.
Ganachc, however, does have co contain a
minimum a mount of cocoa bucrcr and a
minimum amount of soft far. ' I he creamy texture
is determined by rhe combination of cocoa bucrer
(hard fat) and a soft fat or oil (liquid fat).
Since cocoa burcer has a pleasanc melting
behaviour and and rhe imporram properry of
recaining a romas, it is essenria l in a high-quality
ga nache recipe. le is therefore noc recommended
co replace the cocoa burccr with another far.
O n average a high-qual ity ganache contains from
JO lO 40% fac, of which approximately 21.l cocoa
butter and 113 oil. If a sofr fat, such as untempered
coconut for, is used instead of oil, rhe percentage
of cocoa buccer muse be slightly reduced.
In order co approximate the softness ofbuccerfar,
mix 50% cocoa burcer wirh 50% oil.
The water in the cream, milk or butter removed
from rhe recipe, can be replaced with soya milk
(contai ns o n average 2.2% far), rice milk (0% far)
or coconut milk (far percentage can greatly vary),
a lmond milk 2, rea, coffee, fruit juices, liqueurs,
sugar syrup or water.
C11/c11/ntio11 to rep/nee the cream:
If, for example, rhe original recipe requires 1000 g
35% cream, add 350 g: 2 = 175 g cocoa butter +
r75 g oil to replace the burcer far in the cream.
' I he remain ing 65% water is to be replaced with
an above-mentioned liquid.
Your new recipe will be:
- 175 g cocoa butter
- 175 g oil
- 650 g soya milk, rice milk, coconut milk or
almond milk, etc.
As in a traditional ganachc the liquid will firsr be
brought co a boi l a nd subsequently poured onco
che c hocolate.
In a separate conraincr, blend rhe melted cocoa
butler wich rhc oil, and fold rhis fac mixture
inro rhe ganache until a homogeneous cream
is achieved. 'I he lecithin in rhe chocolate will
provide che emulsifying effect.
All recipes from this book can be convened in
the same way.
If you can use butter oil, replace the oil
complccely with burrer or oil in rhe above recipes,
in the combination of 50% cocoa burcer + 50%
soft far, in order co achieve the far ratio from a
traditional ganachc. This combination is similar
co che original cream-based recipes.
As an alternative for the use of milk chocolate
nor a loc is available on rhe market. Callcbaur
developed pleasanr milk chocolate on rhe ba~is
oflacrose-frec rice milk, buc when chis book went
co press this chocolate had not yet been marketed.
Below arc a few ideas for recipes.
Recipe 1
200 g dark chocolate (70%)
65 g cocoa butter
65 goil
150 g soya milk, rice milk or almond milk
10 g glucose
Melt rhe chocolate and cocoa butter. Add oil
to rhe chocolate mixture. Bring rhe liquid and
rhe glucose co rhe boil. Pour onro rhc chocolate
mixture. Allow co cool completely co room tem-
perature. In rhc meamimc pour praline mou lds
wit h dark chocolate. Pipe rhe ganache into chc
moulds and allow co slightly crysrallise before
closing che moulds wich a layer of dark c hocolate.
Recipe 2
600 g dark chocolate
70 g cocoa butter
7ogoil
260 g soya milk, rice milk or almond milk
15 g graced ginger
zest of 12 lemon
50 g inverc sugar
Meir rhe chocolace and cocoa buuer. Add oil co Moehn gnnnche AIU 0.786
che chocolace mixcure. Bring che liquid, cogecher
with the grared ginger and zesc co che boil. 1200 g dark chocolate
Pour the mixture chrough a strainer onco che 90 g cocoa burrer
chocolate and add che inverc sugar. Allow co cool 90 goil
complecely co room temperature and proceed as 430 g soya milk, rice milk or almond milk
described above. 50 g glucose
40 g ground coffee
Recipe J 60 g invert sugar

100 g cocoa hurter Melt the chocolate and cocoa buccer. Add oil
600 g raspberry puree co the chocolate mixture. Bring rhe liquid
110 g soya milk, rice milk or almond milk cogccher wich rhc glucose and coffee co rhe
i6o g sucrose boil. Pour onto che chocolare mixcure. Add rhe
1000 g dark chocolare invert sugar. Allow ro cool completely co room
t50 g invert sugar remperature and proceed as described above.
80 g raspberry liqueur 'I his recipe must be homogenised in a food
processor.
Meir the cocoa buccer. Hear the puree. Bring
the liquid and sucrose co che boil. Add puree Nore: In order co maintain rhe grain of che
and quickly boil again. Pour onco che chocolare coffee, the boiling liquid is noc poured chrough
drops. Add invert sugar and liqueur. Allow co a scrainer.
cool complecely co room temperature and proceed
as described above.
W IT H OUT A D D ED SUGA R S
Since there are sti ll many question marks about
che concept "sugar-free'', and therefore also a lack
of knowledge, I found ic necessary co provide
some information. If dairy ingrcdicncs are
processed, che sugar-free concept can certainly
not be used, since dairy ingredicncs concain
lactose.
Si nce scienciscs and legislators still have different
o pinions on the subject, I w ill limit myself co chac
w hi ch is cur rently accep ted as true.
How can our food produces be sweetened and yec
be sugar-free? The answer is malticol and sorbicol.
Some countries only accept produces as
"completely safe" if chey arc prepared with
oligofructose. Oligofrucrose muse be excracced
from che plane roots (e.g., from chicory or
beetroot). h is resorbed even more slowly by
che body and is t herefore even less dangerous
w ich respect ro glycaemia (blood sugar level).
O ligofructose concains fewer calories chan
fructose, i.e., 1.5 kcal/g compared co 4 kcal/
g for frucrose. The sweetness of fructose is
approximately q rimes scronger. This results in
less fructose being used for rhe same sweetness
level.
Maltiro l is a sugar produced by the hydrolysis and
hydrogenation of search. 1l1is sweetener has the
fo llowing propercies:
~ Sweetness chat can be compared ro thar of
sucrose for 90%
~ Cheaper chan oligofrucrose (fibres)
~ Does not need insulin to convert in the body
~ Has an energy value of 2.8 kcal/g.
The major disadvancage of malritol is chat this
produce has a laxative effect when used frequently.
Fru ctose works as a sugar for diabetics! It is
slower to m etabolise in che body or to be broken
down tha n orher sugars. This resu lcs in chc face
that fructose scays longer in che stomach and
in che rest of the digestive cracc and therefore is
heavier on rhe stomach. le is generally accepted
char people at risk may ingests a maximum of 15 g
fructose per day wichouc any danger co che body.
GANAC ll ES W I T ll OUT A DD E D SUGARS
Tastes e\'olve and forcunately chere is an increa-
sing rrend co sweecen creams and ganaches less
and less. Bue rhe gap between sweetening less and
not adding any sugars ac all is scill quire big.
Wich rhe sugar-free ingrediems currently
available on rhe market, quite a number of recipes
can be created with jusr a licde creach•ity. lherc
are chocolaccs with malcicol (dark, milk as well
as white chocolace), praline-flavoured produces
wich malricol and long shelflife fillings with
malcitol (Callcbaut is rhe market leader in chi~
area). Even ~ugar-frec marzipan and fondant
are available. If you can combine rhesc wirh
cream and burcer, you have a whole array of
recipes.
Below you will ~nd a few examples calculated on
che basis of mahitol produces from Callebauc:
C1uri11g chorolnus
500 g Malpra (= praline wich malcirol)
250 g Malchoc D (=dark chocolare wirh malcirol)
or:
500 g Malpra
300 g Malchoc M (=milk chocolate wich
mahirol)
or:
500 g Malpra
350 g Malchoc \YI(= whice chocolate with
malrirol)
500 g Pure nut paste (roasced and finely crushed
hazclnucs)
250 g Malchoc D
or:
500 g Pure nut pascc
300 g Malchoc M
or:
500 g Pure nut pasce
350 g Malchoc \YI

To chis you can add, for example, approximacely
100 g of roasced and broken hazelnuts, almonds,
pine nucs, piscachios, peanuts, ecc.
Mix che precrysrallised chocolare wich rhe praline
and immediately pour inco a frame. Leave to
crysrallise sufficiencly before covering with a
chin layer of malcirol chocolace. This layer will
be used as a base afcer unmoulding. Turn the
slab wich che chocolace facing down and apply
chocolare decoration to the surface. As soon as
che chocolare scares cryscallising and is no longer
scicky, cue it co che desired size with the help of
che wire curter.
Butter ganache with sajfi'on Aw 0.870
200 g cream
160 g bucter
1 g saffron
300 g Malchoc M
Pour a praline mould with dark maltitol
chocolare. Bring cream, butter and saffron
to che boil. Leave co infuse until the cream
is fully cooled. Pour eh rough a strainer onto
rhe precrystallised chocolate. Pipe the ga nache
inco the chocolate shells and allow to crystallise
sufficiently before sealing the moulds with
chocolace.
Ganache with vodka Aw 0.870
250 g cream
50 g cocoa bucrer
7 50 g Malchoc M
50 g vodka
Bring che cream and cocoa butter to the boil.
Pour onro the finely chopped chocolate. Allow
the ganache to cool completely and add the
vodka. Leave co cool unril slight crysrallisation
rakes place around the rims of the bowl. Stir
thoroughly and immediately pipe strips wich a
smooch rip with a diameter of approximacely
15 mm. Leave to crystallise sufficiently before
spliccing up the strips. Dip inro dark chocolate
and place on a square-meshed grate. As soon as
the chocolate scares chicken ing, roll che cylinders
from che grace on a sheer of paper.

Mint g111111che Aw 0.898
250 g cream
30 g fresh mint
350 g Malchoc D
Bring che cream and finely shredded mine leaves
co che boil. Leave co infuse uncil rhe cream is
fully cooled. Pour t hrough a strainer onro rhe
precrysrallised chocolace. Pipe imo previously
poured mo ulds. Leave to crystallise sufficiemly
before closing chc mo ulds.
GANA C tl l!S W I TH F E RME N T ED A L C O H OLI C
B EVE RA GES
Ch11mp11g11e g111111che
l-ligh-qualicy Champagne ganaches are requcsced
on a regular basis. A ganache recipe wich
genuine Champagne does not have a pronounced
Champagne flavou r, since the bitter cocoa
in che recipe prevails over che Champagne
Aavour. Thac is why mare de Champagne is
mosc often used. For che same reason wh ite
chocolate is ofren used and sometimes milk
chocolate, when making Champagne ganache.
The champagne must be brought co che boil
in order co desrroy rhe yeasts, otherwise the
ganache cannot be kept. As a result the alcohol
also evaporares and approximately 13% alcohol
muse subsequencly be added co che ganache. Thac
is why a Champagne ganache using genuine
Champagne is very expensive. Cheaper sparkling
\Vines can be used, but in chat case you may
no longer use the Champagne designation.
If you srill wish tO use genuine Champagne,
enhance rhe Aavour by adding Sauternes a nd
a him of orange. If you wane co imitate t he
sparkle of che Champagne, add popping candy
dusr (see Popping feeling, page 198; for further
information visir www.1,eiacspacial.com).
Beer g111111che
Here coo firsc descroy chc yeasts, by bringing
rhe beer co che boil. Subsequemly add the beer
co the chocolare and any ocher ingrediems.
Ofcen rhe Aavour of beer can be somewhat
enhanced by adding spices. The type of spices
depends on chc Aavour of che beer used.
Buner oil is clarified butter. Clarifying means cbe removal
of water, proteins, casein and sahs from the huttcr. By leaving
che buner for a few hour\ at a tempera1urc above 40°c, a
sediment is created containing the casein and the \ahs. If
you slowlr heat the bmter, •I thin layer of foam is created ar
rhe rop. This foam contains rhe proceins. Remove the foam
firsc and and subscqucndy carefully pour the clarified buncr
into a container in order to \Cparatc the ~dimc111. In Eascern
countries, clarified buner is known by the name ghi or ghee.
' Almond milk i~ not alway~ caS)' 10 find, but it is ca'y to
make. See Making almond milk, pa~e 101.
 C H AMPAG N E TRUFFLES

Recipe I Aw 0.887

uoo g <:ream Bring rhe cream, the glucose and the sorbirol ro the boil and pour onro
290 g glucose the chocolace drops. Allow ro cool ro approximately 25°c (77°F) before
40 g sorbicol folding in the mare de champagne. Blend the melted cocoa burrer
rooo g milk chocohue wirh rhe popping candy and add ro the ganache. Pipe into chocolare
woo g white chocolate trufHe balls and leave ro slighrly cryscallise before sealing rhe shells
120 g mare Jc champagne 60% with chocolate. Apply decoration around rhe rruffles.

Altcmtlti t•ely
30 g cocoa butter
20 g popping candy <lust

900g1.:rcam Recipe 2 Aw 0.880

270 g glucose
30 g 'orbicol Mechod: See above.
800 g white chocolate
600 g milk chocolace
105 g mare de champagne

A!ten11ufrely
30 g 1:ocoa buccer
20 g popping candy dusc

800 g bucccr Recipe 3 Aw o.8J'J

600 g fon<lanr sugar
350 g glucose Blend rhe room remperacure bucrer wirh rhe fondant sugar. Successively
SfO g mare de champagne fold in the glucose, mare de champagne and rhe chocolate. Lasrly, the
1600 g <lark chocolate popping candy can be added.

Alr<.:rnarivcly
20 g popping candy <lmc
 BEER TRUFFLES

Awo.880

JOO g brt·r Bring rhe warer ro rhc boil. Add the ~orbirnl and cominue to boil for a
dioiu: of 'PiC<.:.'> with shore time. Pour this mixture onto rhc chocolacc drops. Allow co cool
ginkgo hiloba powdcr 1 co approximately 25°c (77°F) before folding in chc room-temperacure
80 g lk1uid ~orbitol butcer. Pipe imo chocolate truffic balls and leave co slightly crystallise
~oo g milk <.hocol.m: before sealing the shells with chocolate. Apply dccorarion around che
100 g buuer truffles.

• Ginkgo biloba powder i, ,Jighdy bi11cr Jnd qui1c 'ui1Jhlc for a beer ganache.
The powder is quite expemhe .ind ditlicuh 10 find on 1hc marker, bur iris easy co
make without co,t. In the 'Pring hJl'nl 1hc young lca\c> of the Japanese temple rree
(ginkgo biloba). Spread the leave' on <heel\ in ord<r co dry chem quickly. When they
are pcrJ"C,,:tl) dry. rhcy un be ground imo po"dcr in a food processor. If you place the
powder in <c:ilcd jar- in a dark p!J<c. you <an c:1,ily keep 1hcm for one year. The powder
can be used perfectly in the kitchen 10 Aavour do<hn.
GANACH.ES WITH LONG S HELF LIFE Recipe 2 - Groseille Aw OJ87

300 g sucrose
In ganaches wirh long shelf life the J\w value 50 g glucose
muse be near o.6 or less. Ganaches with long shelf 200 gcream
l ife are for the mosr parr heavier and sweerer than 150 g redcurranr puree
rradirional rypes prepared wirh cream and burrer. 170 g milk chocolare
Adding a certain quancit y of soft fats can slighdy
lighre n the texrure. Caramelise the sucrose and glucose umil chcy
acquire a nice golden brown colour. Carefully
Recipe 1 Aw 0.691 cool the mixture with small quanriries of cream.
Add che puree and leave to boil to approximately
0
740 g sweeccned condensed milk uo c (230°F) . Leave to cool completely before
roo g butter concentrate folding in the precrysrallised chocolate. Nore:
60 g inverr sugar several rypes of fruit puree can be used .
roo g glycerol
380 g chocolace (70%) Recipe 3 Aw 0.549

Blend che condensed milk and rhe burrer 500 g sucrose

concenrrare. Add rhe inverr sugar and glycerol 500 g hazelnuts
and lasrly, rhe chocolare. Homogenise in a food 250 g burrer
processor. 250 g dark chocolare
Mele che sucrose unc il complerely liquid. Blend
che hazelnuts in to che caramel and cominue co
heat u nril rhe nurs srnrr roasring. You should
be ab le to hear che nms roasc. Pour rhe m ixrnre
on :i Si lpar mar a nd leave m fully cool. Break
the caramel inro pieces and furcher mix in che
food processor inco a liquid cream. Blend in che
buccer :ind rhen che precrysrallised c hocolate inro
the praline. If you do noc own a food processor,
repl:ice rhe sucrose and nurs wich 1000 g
prali ne.
Recipe 4 - Basic syrup Aw 0.7 14
100 g wme r
200 g sucrose
250 g glucose wich h igh DE
20 g sorbitol
20 g glycerol
150 g buccer
100 gcream
Bri ng water, sucrose, glucose, sorbicol
a nd glyce rol co che boil. Add the burrer and
subsequcmly rhe crea m and continue to cook co
76°Bx (Brix). Allow to cool complecely to room
tcmperacure. Add 200 g chocolarc ro rhe 300 g
basic syrup.
GLAZ I N G C ANAC H .ES
G:1nachcs used ro cover cares muse have an
att ractive g loss and keep rhis gloss as long
as possible. If che glazed cares arc frozen, che
ganache should display rhe same glo~~ after
thawing.
In order co meec all these requirements, a number
of criteria musr be rcspecred. Ale hough speci fic
ingred ients contribme co increasing rhe gloss,
such as glucose, gelatine, pccci n or a peccin jelly,
a nd in parcicular subsrirnrc chocolate or a hard
foe, other factors can play a n impon:rnc role in
d etermining gloss:
~ 'the temperature of the ganachc compared
co the temperature of rhe pasrry ro be
coated.
~ Most glazing ganaches arc bes1 more or
less precrys1allised, with the exception of
ganachcs made with subscirurc chocolare
and/or hard far. 1hac is why ic is some1imes
good co leave rhe ganachc to rest afrer
preparation uncil ir scares crystallising.
Subsequently che ganache can be carefully
and slightly reheated.
~ Ganaches concaining subsrirure chocolate or
hard fats, are best quickly homogenised using
a hand mixer. ·n1e gloss can be improved by
making rhe far parrides as fine as possible.
Make sure noc to add air co che ganache.
Turn che hand mixer on and off whi le iris
still immersed in the mixture.
A FEW RECIPES WITH GELATINE
Dark glnzmg gn11ache
300 g warer
165 g cream (40%)
500 g sucrose
160 g cocoa powder
70 g chocola1e
30 g gelatine
Soak the gelatine. Bring waccr, cream, sucrose
and cocoa powder to the boil. In che meancime
remove 1he excess wacer from rhe gelatine
and carefull)' meh. Pour rhc mixrure onco che
chocolare drops and add the gelatine. Blend well.
Strain. Bring che g:inachc co approximacely 30°c
- 35°c (86°F - 95°1:) before covering che cakes.
Dark glazing ga1111che
240 g cream (40%)
290 g warer
360 g sucrose
120 g cocoa powder
12 g gelaline
Ler rhc gelatine soak in cold water. Boi l the
cream, che water and the sucrose for five minuces.
Add che cocoa powder. Use a hand mixer for at
lease one minute at its highest speed. Add the
wrung-our gelatine, mix choroughl)' and scrain
the ganache. Bring the ganache co approximately
30°c - 35°c (86°r - 95°r) before covering che cakes.
Glnzi11ggn11nche with milk chocolate

250 g whole milk
wo g glucose
300 g milk chocolate
12 g gelatine
300 g hard milk substitute
Let the gelatine soak in cold warer. Bring
the milk and glucose to the boil. Pour onto
the chocolate drops. Add the wrung-our gelatine,
mix thoroughly and strain. Bring the ganache
ro approximately 30°c - 35°c (86°F - 95°F) before
covering the cakes.
Glazing ganache with milk chocolate
250 g milk
100 g glucose
8 g gelatine
300 g milk chocolate
300 g hard milk substitute
Soak rhe gelatine. Bring the milk and glucose
co che boil. In che meantime remove che excess
warer from che gelatine and add ic co rhe boiled
milk. Pour the milk onro the chocolate mixture
and strain che ganache. Use a hand mixer for
one minute ar a high speed. Bring rhe ganache
to approximacely 30°c - 35°c (86°F - 95°F) before
covering che cakes.
Glazing galltlche with white chocolate
250 g milk
50 g glucose
8 gelacine leaves
400 g white chocolare
200 g hard white substitute chocolate
Soak the gelarine. Bring rhe milk and glucose
to the boil. Add the wrung-our gelatine and
subsequently pour it on the melted chocolate
and substirute chocolate. Strain. Bring the
ganache to approximately 30°c - 35°c (86°F - 95°F)
before covering the cakes.
A FEW RECIPES WITH HARD SUBSTITUTE C HOCOLATE SAUCES
(OR HARDENE D FAT)

Dark glazing ganache These sauces are intended to be used to pour

onto ice cream, for example.
250 g milk
125g glucose Freeze-resistant chocolate sauce
200 g dark chocolate
250 g ha rd substitute This chocolate sauce remains soft to -25°c (-r3°F).

Bring the milk a nd glucose ro the boil. 600 g invert sugar

In the meantime mix the substitute and the
chocolate. Pour onro the chocolate mixture.
Use a hand mixer for one minute at high speed.
Bring che ganache co approximately 30°c - 35°c
(86°F - 95°1') before covering the cakes.
roo g cocoa powder ro/12
300 g water
Bring the water and the cocoa powder to rhe
boil. After cooling, mix with the invert sugar.

Dark glazing ganache Long shelflife chocolate sance Aw O.J4I

120 g syrup 30°Be 1 300 g water

125 g cream (40%) 400 g sucrose
30 g glucose 100 g invert sugar
60 g dark chocolate 100 g isoglucose
250 g dark ha rd substirn(e 1 g potassium sorbace
I g tartaric acid
Bring the syrup, cream and glucose m the boil. 50 g liquid sorbicol
Add chocolate a nd substitute. Use a hand m ixer 50 g glycerol
for one minu te ac high speed. Bring che ganache 250 g cocoa mass
to approximately 30°c - 35°c (86°F - 95°F) before
covering the cakes. Bring the water and cbe sucrose, che inven sugar,
isoglucose, potassium sorbare and tartaric acid to
Dark glazing grmache rhe boil. Add rhe sorbitol and glycerol. Pour t he
mixrure onto rhe warm, melted cocoa mass. Pour
500 g cream (40%) into boccies. Cool as soon as possible.
JOO g glucose
400 g syrup at 30°Be
200 g chocolate
rooo g hard substirnte A syrup of 30°Be is obcained h)' boiling 1 kg sugar
wich 300 gsucrose co 102°c - 103°c (215.6°r - 21;.4°F). This is
55 Brix wich che refracromecer.
Bring the cream, gl ucose and syrup co the boil.
In the meantime mix che substirnte and the
chocolate. Pour onto t he chocolate mixture.
Use a hand mixer for one m inuce ac a high speed.
Bring the ganache to approximately 30°c - 35°c
(86°r - 95°F) before covering the cakes.
GANACHES WITH STIMULATING PROPERTIES Rich in fibre

Low-caloric. Cleanses the intestines (e.g., grated

Many spices, planes and crops have a specific coconm).
property and can, under cerrain circumstances,
have a more or less stimulating effect on our way Essential citrus fruit oils
of life. The quantity is obviously important.
The benefits differ from fruit co fruit.
In their advertising, marketers like ro make use
of all that can possibly improve the well-being
of consumers, even if the acmal impact on health
is minimal.

Below you will find a number of examples of

pralines made from recipes based on a myriad
of stimulating ingredients.

Coffee

Contains caffeine, antioxidants, minerals

(potassium-magnesium, manganese).

Green tea

Contains powerful antioxidancs and caffeine.

Wine

Source of antioxidants.

Mint

Has a refreshing effect. Promotes digestion.

Ginger

Appetite booster, improves digestion, warming

effect.

T'lums

Laxative, rich in antioxidants, calcium,

magnesium, iron and copper.

Anise

Rich in essential oils responsible for the pleasant

odour and aromatic sweet flavour.
 COFF.E.E CANACHE

400 g cream Bring cream, coffee, glucose and bucrer to the boil. Pour rhrough a
40 g finely ground coffee fine pointed strainer onco rhe chocolace drops and blend into a smooth
50 g glucose mass. Add the invert sugar and allow co fully cool. In rhe meamime
200 g buccer create half sphere-shaped chocolate moulds and roll out rhe marzipan
800 g milk chocolace into a 3-mm layer. Cur our circles of the same d iamecer as rhe chocolate
JOO g inven sugar shells. As soon as slight crysrallisarion rakes place around rhe edges
of the ganache, spread rhe latter in rhe chocolate shells using a palene
knife. Place a marzipan circle on each praline and leave ro crystallise
before unmoulding the pralines. Dip imo dark chocolate. Garn ish with
decorarion.
 ES P RESSO

Aw 0.803

400 g cream Bring the cream, glucose, sorbicol and coffee co a boil. Pour mixture
70 g glucose through srrainer onto chocolate drops, leave co cool co below 30°c
50 g sorbicol (86°F) and blend into a homogeneous cream. Cool as quickly as possible
8 g ground coffee co below 30°c (86°1') before folding in the room-temperature butter.
600 g chocolate (70%) Pipe inco the chocolate shells and allow to slighcly crystall ise before
50 g buner closing rhe moulds.
 ORIE NT

Aw 0.769

')O g \\Jeer Bring the water co a boil. Allow the tea co brew for five minuccs.
15 g jasminc-Aavour~·d green cc,1 Add the cream and the sorbicol co che infusion and bring co the boil.
wo g uc.un Pour rhe boiling mixture through a srrainer onco the chocolate drops
)0 g sorbirol and blend inro a smooth mass. Allow rhe mixrure to cool as quickly as
')OO g milk d10eolace possible co below J0°c (86°F) before folding in che room-rem perature
80 i; bucter burrer. lmmcdiacelr pipe imo the chocolate shells. Allow che ganache
ro crystallise slightly before closing che moulds.
 W I NE CREAM

Aw 0.880

_ioo ~ n.:d c.1hk· wine Bring chc wine and spices, rhe sorbirol and glucose co chc boil. Pour
4 dove~ rhe mixcure through a scrainer omo rhe chocolate drops and cocoa
8 g dnnJmon buccer. Allow co cool co approximately 30°c (86°r) before folding in the
O.\ g black pcppt·r (=pinch) room-remperarure butter. Pipe rhe ganache into the chocolate shells and
JO g sorbitol allow co crystallise sufficiently before sealing rhe mould~ with chocolate.
100 g gluw~c
600 g milk cho~ol.ue
~o g c1>1.o.1 huua
150 g hmter
 AL VINO

Aw 0.82

_lOO g cream Bring the cream and sorbitol to the boil. Whip rhe egg yol ks wit h the
20 g ~orbicol sucrose. Pour rhis barrer onro rhe cream and conrinue to heac o n low
6 egg yolks 1 hear while srirring to approximately 85°c (185°F) . Add the wine and
JOO g SUGO~e bring to che boil while srirring. Strain the batter and pouc onro the milk
250 g red wine chocolace drops and leave to cool to approximately 30°c (86°F). Add de
700 g milk cho..:olate cocoa bucrer to rhe white chocolare and remper before blending with
150 g cocoa hurter the ganache. Pour inro a frame approximately I cm high and leave co
400 g \\hice ..:howlace crystallise. Spread a thin layer of milk chocolace on the surface co create
che base. Turn over afrer chocolare has hardened and cut using the
wire slicer. Dip inro milk chocolate. Decorare wirh rel ief foi l on liquid
chocolate. Leave the foil at least a few hours on the chocolate before
removing ir.

An average egg yolk weighs 18 g. If you were co use egg yolk powder, you wi ll have ro
make a small conversion:

100 g egg yolk powder comains: 100 g raw egg yolk comains:
3 g warer 50 g water
) t.- g egg whites 16 g egg whites
59-J g fats 33 g fats
1.1 g carbohydra1es o.o g carbohydrates
The remainder consists of llie remainder consists of
minerals and vi1amins. minerals and viramins.
 FRES H Y W ITH MINT

Aw 0.825

175 g cream Bring rhc cream, mint leaves and glucose to 1hc boil. Add a few drops
10g frt's h mi111 bwcs oflime juice. Cover ro prevent loss of moisrure during cooling. Leave ro
7'i g gllh..O\e fully cool. Pour the cream rhrough a strainer onro rhe precrysrallised
lime juice chocolace. Blend the room-remperature butrer inro the ganache. C reate
500 g milk cho~obtc round bases in dark chocolate using a stencil (PRO 6A van PCB). Pipe inro
300 g butter half-sphere shapes with the help of a smooch rip. Leave to cryscallise
sufficiently before dipping them inro dark chocolate. Garnish with
slightly chickened milk chocolate.
 M I NTY

Aw 0.881

500 g cream Bring the cream, glucose, sorbitol, buner and mint puree to rhc
so. g glucose boil. Pour the cream onro the chocolate drops. Allow the ganache
30 g ~orhicol to fully cool unril slight solidification takes place around the edges.
120 g buner Mix thoroughly and immediately pipe inro chocolate shells. Leave to
roo g mint purec (Boiron) crystallise sufficienrly before sealing the moulds with chocolate.
350 g dark chocolate (60%)
-100 g milk chocolare
GINGER
Awo.890
250 g cream
·iesLof Y2 lime
20 g graced ginger
350 g dark chocolate
50 g butter
Bring the cream, zest and graced ginger co rhe
boil. Pour che mixture through a strainer onro
the chocolate and mix thoroughly. Allow co cool
co approximately 25°c (77 °F) before folding in rhe
room-temperature butter. Pour into a frame and
allow ro sufficiently crystallise before spreading
a chin layer of milk chocolace on ir co create rhe
base. After complete crystallisation, rum che
slab upside down and cur the ganache using a
wire slicer. If you wish ro use a round or oval
curter instead of a wire slicer, you only have to
add the base after cucring, as you can roll our rhe
excess between rwo Silpar mats and rwo levelling
guides. Dip the ganache inco rhe milk chocolare
and garnish with a small piece of candied ginger.
Candied ginger is readily available on che marker.
Below is a recipe just in case you arc unable co
find candied ginger.
THE CANDY I NG OF GINGER
Candying is a process whereby the fruics are
saturated with sugar syrup. The sugar replaces
the juice and provides rhe fruits wirh a sofr and
firm structure and an intensely sweet Aavour.
The fruirs muse stay immersed for rwo days in
a chin sugar syrup. Subsequendy rhe syrup's
sugar concemrarion is increased and rhe fruits
again immersed for rwo days. This procedure
is a repeared several rimes and lases rwo weeks
(for further explanations see my book Perfect
Praline Pan r). ff the fruits were co be immersed
too quickly in coo high a concencrarion of sugar
syrup, rhey would shrivel up and nor keep.
If rhc candying is done correctly, the fruits can
easily be kept for one year.
Method:
Peel the ginger and cur into equal slices. Poach
rhe ginger by boiling ir in water for approximately
15 minmes. Srrain rhe ginger and use rhe cooking
juices ro create a sugar syrup.
Take 1 kg sucrose and 300 g cooking juices and
boil ro ro4°c (219°F) or 20° Baume (36° Brix).
Immerse che drained ginger in rhe hot syrup and
allow co rest for 24 hours.
- 2nd day: Quickly drain rhe fruits, add 100 g
sugar to rhe remaining syrup and heat ro 22°
Baume (40° Brix). Pour the syrup over rhe
fruits and allow ro rest another 24 hours.
3rd day: Drain rhe fruits, add another 100 g
sugar co che syrup and hear co 24° Baume
(44° Brix).
4rh day: See 3rd day.
5ch day: See above bur hear co 26° Baumc
(47° Brix).
6rh day: See 5rh day.
7 th day: See above but heat ro 28° Baume
(51° Brix).
8rh day: See 7 rh day.
9rh day: See above bur hear co 30° Baume
(54° Brix).
rorh day: See 9th day.
11rh day: See above bur heat co 32° Baume
(58° Brix).
12th day: See above, bur add 200 g glucose and
hear the syrup ro 34° Baume (62° Brix).
Leave rhe fruics co marinate for four days in
this syrup. Drain che fruics and package rhem
carefully in order ro prevent chem drying our.
Gra1ed ginger: Rinse the ginger root in water. Use a peeler
or paring knife in order io remo"e rhe peel. Grate the root
and use both juice and pulp.
 AFRICA

Awo.879

lSO g Lrc.1111 Grace chc ginger. Bring rhe cream, cinnamon srick, C hinese anise,
1 dnnamon ~1kk ginger, glucose a nd sorbirol co rhe boil. Cover and leave 10 infuse umil
1 Chim·,t· ani't' rhe cream is fully cooled. Pour rhe mixmre through a ~trainer onco rhc
l ~ gingc:r precrysrallised chocolare and mix choroughly. !=ill the chocolarc shells.
40 g glut me Allow rhe ganachc ro crysrallisc sufficienrly before sca ling the mou lds
~o g sorbiiol wirh a layer of chocolace.
500 g dark c.hocol:ue (60%)
 PLUM GANACH I:.

Awo.805

200 g pru nes Pour boiling water on che plums and leave rhc laucr 10 swell for at least
100 g \\.ttcr an hour. Purce rhc plums in a blender or food processor. Mcie rhe burter.
4 g dnnamon powJer Add the honey until light brown. Add che plum puree and allow ro
Xo g hum·r chicken ro approximaccly 105°c (221°F). Pour onto 1he chocolate drops
100 g honey and mix well. Allow ro cool sufficicnrly before folding in the porr wi ne.
300 g white c.:hocolare In the meantime pour praline moulds wirh dark chocolate. Allow chc
IOO g pori wine ganache ro fully cool until slight solidificacion rakes place around rhe
edges. Mix thoroughly and immediately pipe in10 chocolate shells.
Leave ro crysrallise sufficicncly before sealing rhe moulds with chocolate.
 T R UFFLES WITH ANISE

Aw 0.861

310 g cream Bring rhe cream, anise, invert sugar and butter to rhe boil. Leave
) g dried anise seeds co infuse unril rhe cream is fully cooled. Srrain rhe cream and pour
130 g butter onro rhe precrysrallised chocolate ar approximarely 30°c (86°F), mix
80 g invcrc sugar thoroughly and pipe rhe ganache inro long srrips wirh rhe help of a
)OO g dark dlocolate smoorh rip. Leave to crysrallise sufficienrly before d ipping rhe srri ps
into dark chocolate. To finish roll chem in granulared sugar.
 H ELLAS

Aw 0.800

150 g sucrose Create round chocolate bases wich che help of a stencil. Caramellise
240 g cream che sucrose uncil golden brown. Carefu lly q uench the caramel with
1'2 van iIla pod the cream, add che vanilla pod and hear co 102°c (215°F). Strain the
2.00 g dark chocola[e syrup, pour onco the chocolate, mix choroughly and cool to 25°c (77°F).
300 g m ilk chocolate Finally fold in the liqueur and che room-remperarure buccer. Pipe
25 g ouzo or other an ise liqueur cencres onco chocolate bases in che shape of rosecces, using a scar cip.
150 g bucter Leave co cryscallise sufficiencly before dipping che pralines inro chin,
liquid dark chocolace.

Noce: See page 50 and 51 for ocher merhods co create bases if you do
noc have a stencil available.
 ANTA LYA

.>50 g cream Break rhe mahaleb cherry seeds and rhe Chinese anise inro chunks in
60 g glucose order for chem co release as much aroma as possible. Bring rhe cream,
20 g sorbiwl glucose, sorbirol, buner, Chinese anise and mahaleb cherries to rhe
co g mahaleb see<l.s 1 2 boil. Allow co infuse co approximately 70°c (158 °F) before fo lding in rhe
J C hi nese <111ise honey. Leave co fully cool and srrain onro rhe precrysrallised chocolace.
30 g bmrer Pour chocolare shells. Fill rhe shells wirh rhe ganachc a nd leave co
50 g honey slightly crysrallise before sealing rhe moulds wirh chocolate.
500 g dark chocolace
• Mahaleb is rhe seed in de pip of wild cherries from rhe mahaleb chcrr)' rrcc.
'rhis tree originates in the Middle East, central and souchern Europe. llie seeds
have a slighr biner and fragrant caste. It is mainly used in bread, cheese and biscuits.
The cherry pips are sold bo1h in solid and ground form.
' When using ground mahaleb only rake Yi of the aforementioned quantiries.
 COCONUT

500 g coconut milk Bring the coconut milk, invert sugar and cue vanilla pod co the
)O g invc:rt '11g:1r boil. Pour rhrough a strainer onco the chocolace drops. Blend the
1 vanilla pod coconuc Rakes inco rhe ganache and add che melred cocoa burrer ac
1500 g whice c.:ho~olace approximarely 30°c (86°F). Pour inco a frame approximacely 10 mm
400 g coc.:onuc Ila kc~ high. Allow co cryscallise sufficiently before covering wirh a chin layer or
50 g c.:ocoa butter chocolate co create che base. Cuc into squares in chc desired dime nsions.
Since che coconut fat, when coaced wich dark chocolate, can cause
facbloom within a relacively shore period, iris recommended to coac
chis filling wich milk chocolacc.
 TOSCA NA

Aw 0.890

150 g cream Bring the cream, zesc and vanilla ro che boil. Fold in rhe honey.
5 g orange 1.esc Allow co simmer until rhe cream is cooled. Pour eh rough a strainer
(= approximatdy 1 orange)' 2 onco die melced chocolate. Add rhe cognac and blend inco a smooth
5 g lime zest cream. Allow ro cool to below 30°c (86°F). Pour chocolare shells. Pipe
(-= approximately r lime) die ganache into rhe chocolare shells and allow to crysrnllise sufficicndy
1,2 \'anilla pod before sealing rhe moulds wich chocolate.
20 g honer
300 g milk chocolate • Cicrus fruits must be rinsed under \varm water, since they are cccated with t he pre~cr­
\•acive chiabendazol. ]he wax layer cnw rcs tha1 d1e)' will not dry ou1 as qu ickly.
50 g rngn;K ~ Zesc is obtained by gracing che peel of che fruit. Make sure no white p..-r is g rated,
as it has a bitter caste.
 L I ME AND PfSTAC HI O CANAC H E

Awo.806

)00 g Lrc:am Bring rhe cream and zesr to lhe boil. Pour through a srrainer onco the
JC:)l of I orange peel chocolate drops. Add rhe invert sugar and piscachio paste. Leave to
500 g milk chocobtc cook ro below 30°c (86°1') before piping imo chocolarc shells. Allow
500 g Jark chocolarc: (60%) rhe ganache ro cryscallise sufficienrly before closing rhe moulds.
160 g inn:n \ug.tr
20 g pure piscachio pa\lt'
 LIM E \VITI-I VODKA

400 g cream Bring rhe cream, zest, juice and laurel leaf to rhe boil and leave to set
3 g lime zesc unril che cream is fully cooled. Add rhe orher ingredienrs ro the food
40 g lime juice processor and pour rhe cooled cream onto rhe mixture through a
1 laurel lc,1f strainer. Allow ro homogenise brieAy. Pour inro a frame and leave to
1 g pink berry pepper sufficiently crystallise before covering with a rhin layer of chocolate,
'iO g invert ~ugar which will later be used as the base. After full crystallisation, tum
300 g milk d10colace rhe ganache slab upside down before cuning it using a wire slicer.
300 g dark chocoLue Dip imo 7 0 % chocolate.
JO g \'Odka
80 g buccer
 MYSTERE

Aw 0.878

500 g LrC.l lll Bring rhe cream, vanilla pod, zest, glucose and burrer ro the boil.
1vanill.l poJ Allow to cool ro approximarely 25°c (77°F) before pouring the mixcure
.w g orange zc,t through a strainer over the tempered chocolate. Pour into a frame and
(= ± 2 oranges) leave ro suffidencly cryscallise before spreading a chin layer of chocolate
i.o g lemon zest on the surface, which will larer be used as rhe base. Cur che ganache
(= ± 2 lemom) wirh che chocolate layer facing down lO the desired size using a wire
100 g glt1CO\l' slicer. Dip imo milk chocolate. Garnish.
100 g butter
700 g dark cho..:oLn~·
 EQUA DOR

Awo.828

<;oo g cream Bring the cream, zesc and chili to the boil. Allow ro sim mer for a
g orange It'\!
10 approximately 5 minutes. Pour the cream 1hrough a ~tra iner omo the
dash of eh iii pt:ppt'r chocolate drops. Bring the orange juice ro che boil and pour onto the
1000 g milk d1ou1l.1tt' ganache. Leave the ganache to cool to 3o•c (86°F) before homogenising
50 g orangl' juict• the mix1urc in the food processor. Immediately pour into a frame.
If you cm the pralines using a wire slicer, first spread a chin layer of
chocolate on the ga nache surface. This layer will be used lacer as the
base. If you wish to use a round or oval currer, create the base afrer
curcing. You can roll our the excess berween rwo Si lpat macs and
cwo levelling guides. Dip che pralines imo milk chocola1e. Garnish.
THE CARAM£LISING O f SUGARS
Due to their pleasant, sweet taste caramel and
caramel syrups are often used in the production
of pralines. They are also quite frequently used as
the basis for a cream or ganache. There is a wide
array of possibilities to Savour them.
The correct melting of the sugar is a major facror.
The caramel must be free from lumps, no sugar
crystals may be left and a colour determines rhe
typical caramel Aavour. A golden brown colour
indicates a sl ight caramel Aavour, whilst a dark
brown colour makes the caramel bitter.
The main sugars used for caramellisarion are
sucrose, glucose and invert sugar. Each of these
has a different Aavour and discolouration factor.
Non-industrial chocolatiers tend to primarily
work with sucrose, some add a lirrle glucose co
the sucrose and others blend some inverr sugar
imo the sucrose. The latter has the advantage
that sucrose docs not become lumpy during the
melting process. This happens primarily if they
wam to melt the full sucrose quamiry in one go.
It is very important for the sucrose not ro lump
during the melting process. These lumps are
d ifficulc to melc away, whilst
in the meantime the melted sugar scares co
discolour. The risk is that discolouration is coo
intense, while Lhere are still unmclted chunks.
There are a number of working methods to
avoid this, each with its pluses and minuses.
- The easiest method is adding a few drops of
citric or ta rtaric acid before melting, or co just
add lemon juice. By doing so you will create
an inversion.
- Another method consists in mixing a pan of
glucose to rhe sucrose (approx. !0%).
- You can also add approximately 5% invert
sugar to the sucrose.
- Or a pat of butter (approx. 2 to 3%).
- Some professionals prefer co melt the sucrose
in small quantities. As soon as che quanciry is
melted, they add a little fresh sucrose, liccle by
little, uncil everything is melced.
~ A less frequently used method is co just bring
the sucrose to che boil wirh a minimum
amoum of water and co concinue to boil the
liquid while stirring umil the sucrose begins co
discolour.
As soon as the sucrose is melted, it must be
quenched wirh a warm liquid. This liquid can
be water, milk, cream, coconut milk or rice milk.
Jn order co achieve rhe most pleasant possible
caramel flavour, however, dairy components
must be present, which affect texture, colour and
flavour (toffee flavour).
During the producrion process the reducing
sugars (fructose and maltose) will create complex
componencs with the milk proteins. This change
is referred to as the Maillard Reaccion. These
created components provide the colour and the
pleasant coffee flavour.
This Maillard Reaction is optimal if the
combination of sugars, milk proteins and hear
is kepr above 40°c (104°P) for a minimum of
20-25 minutes. The longer the syrup is kept above
this temperature, the stronger the reaction.
The ideal caramel flavour is achieved around a
pH value of 6.5.
If you wish co create a caramel mixture with
other liquids, which do not contain milk
proteins, the caramel aroma will be clearly
different from che coffee aroma.
Adding buHer, results in a creamy structure,
decreases sweetness and makes the caramel
more pleasant in the mourh.
In order to furrhcr mask the sweet flavour of
caramel, add a licrle baking soda co rhe liquid
used.
 FRUITY CARAMEL CANACHE

Aw o.7r3

500 g su~ rose Hear che cream. Jn che meancime, caramelise rhe sucrose and glucose
so g glurnse uncil they acquire an attraccive golden brown colour. Carefully quench
500 guc.1111 rhe caramel with che cream and add rhe purcc. Allow 10 cool ro
100 g pl\~ion fruit purce approximarcly 30°c (86 °F) before folding in the tempered chocolace.
IOOO g milk d1ocol:uc Place the ganache in the refrigeracor until slight c rystallisation occurs.
Spread the ganache in a frame or berween two levelling guides, cover
wirh shiny foil and roll che dough inco an even slab with rhe help of a
rolling pin. Allow co sufficiently cryscallise before spreading a thin layer
of chocolate on the surface, which will be used as rhe base. Turn over
rhe slab and cut using a wire slicer. Dip inco chocolare. Garnish.
 CA RAM EL WITH COC O NUT

Aw 0.719

250 g sucrose Caramelise rhe sucrose and glucose unril rhey acqui re an arrraccive
50 g glucose golden brown colour. Carefully quench rhe caramel wirh rhe coconut
i.oo g coconut milk milk and rhe sodium bicarbonate. Add the butter and make sure the
3 g sodium bicarhonace sugars are fully melted before pouring che caramel syrup onro rhe
100 g buner chocolare drops. Lasrly, add the liqueur. Leave to cool umil slight
300 g milk chocolate crystallisation takes place around the edges. Mix thoroughly and
200 g dark chocolate immediately pipe into chocolate shells. Leave to crystallise slightly
so g hacida tie coco or other coconm before closing rhe moulds.
liqueur
 MASTIC H A 1

Aw 014

100 g sucrose Caramelise the sucrose and glucose until they turn into an attractive
JO g glucose golden brown colour. lmmediacely melr che masrkha grains inco
6 g masricha rhe caramel (the grains will melt quire slowly). Slowly and carefully
220 g cream quench rhe caramel wirh the cream. Srir thoroughly and ensure rhar
70 g dark chocolace everyching is melced before scraining rhe syrup onro rhc chocolace
80 g milk chocolate drops. Leave co cool uncil slighc crysrallisarion cakes place around
rhe edges. Mix choroughly and pipe the ganache inro chocolare shells.
Leave to cryscallise sufficiencly before sealing che mou lds wirh chocolate.

' Masticha: resin from che mastic rrce char grows on chc Greek island of Chios.
Can mosrly be found in the form of dear, orangey-yellow drops. ll1e melting point
is becween 6o0 c (140°F) and 110°c (230°F). ·this mastic rree is very much appre.ciared
in rhe .\ledirerranean area and in rhe Arab world. Masricha has multiple applicat ions:
in food: liqueurs, ice cream, chewing gum, bread and Turkish delight: in pharmacemicals:
medical creams, toothpaste, sore medication; in the paim indusrry.
 CARAMEL TR UFFLES

\00 g sucrme Caramelise the sucrose and glucose umil chey cum inco an accraccive
100 g gl11COS\.' golden brown colour. Slowly and carefully quench chc caramel with
400 g ucam che cream. Allow to cool to approximately 25°c (77°P) before folding in
100 g buccer che room-tcmperacurc buccer. Pour che caramel onro the precryscallised
300 g milk d10wLicc chocolacc and navour with coffee excract. Allow the ganache co slightly
\.otli:c exir.1u crystallise and stir until smooth before piping into balls. Leave ro
crystallise sufficiently before dipping the truffles into dark chocolace.
Immediacely roll inro dark chocolare flakes.
 ORANGE BLOSSOM

Aw O.Jl5

JOOO g \ l11.rose Bring cream, buner and sodium bicarbonate LO rhe boil. In the
IOO g gluco\e meanrime, caramelise the sucrose and glucose umil they acquire an
100 g bmter amacrive golden brown colour. Slowly and carefully quench the caramel
1000 g 1,;ream (40%) wirh rhe cream. Allow to cool to approximarcly 30°c (86°F) before
2 g ~odium hirnrhon.ue folding in the tempered chocolate. Stir in orange blossom warer and
40 g orange hlo,sorn \\.ncr 1 alcohol. Pour rhe ganache into a frame and smooth ouc. As soon as
12 g pure .1kohol (90°) the ganache is sufficiently crystallised, spread a chin layer of chocolate
2000 g milk chm:ob.tc on che surface. After stiffening turn the slab upside down and cur the
chocolate using a wire slicer. Dip inco milk chocolate.

' Orange blossom wa1cr i~ dis1illcd from orange blossom leaves. l'ypica l for pastries and
dc-sscrts from 1he Middle East. lhe best orange blo>\Om wa1cr comes from the Dades
Valley in Morocco. h is a,·ailablc in specialist s1ores or in bcucr supermarkets. rf you are
unable to find orange blossom water, ir can be replaced wilh rose wa1er. It is somewhat
similar m ro>e blo\\Om \\,uer, which also provides pas1rics and all kinds of dishes wirh
~ perfume-like aroma.
 S PR ING

:wo g sucrose Caramelise che sucrose and glucose unril chey acquire an actractive
50 g glucose golden brown colour. Carefully quench the caramel wit h bot h purees,
200 g apricoc purec the bucter and rosemary. Stir thoroughly before stra ining onco t he
i.oo g pear purcc chocolate drops. Lastly, fold in the kirsch. Cool as quickly as possible
100 g buncr uncil slight crystallisation takes place around the edges. Pipe the
2 g rosemary ganache inro the chocolate moulds. Leave co crystallise slighdy before
700 g whice chocolace closing the moulds.
200 g milk chocolace
60 g kirsch (48%)
 CHER RY

Awo.766

100 b \llUOSC Caramelise the sucrose and glucose unril they acquire an atrractive
20 g glu1.:o~c golden brown colour. Slowly and carefully quench the caramel with 1he
200 g chcny puree puree. Pour the caramel cream through a strainer onto the chocolate
250 g 111 ilk d10rnl.ue drops, add the cognac and leave to cool to below 25°c (77°F) before
30 g cognal. piping the ganache into the chocolate shells. Leave to crystallise
sufficiently before sealing the moulds with chocolate.
 PINEAPPLE

Awo.669

200 g sucro~e Caramelise che sucrose and glucose uncil they acquire an attractive
150 g glucose golden brown colour. Carefully quench rhe caramel with small
300 g cream quanriries of cream and lastly, the butter. Conrinuc co heat brieAy.
65 g huner Carefully add the pineapple puree and re-heat co approximately
160 g pineapple puree 112°c (234°F). Leave co cool.
 -~-- --- ---

- ---
F R U IT Y GANACHES

With fruit pttree

Take into account the high moisrure concenc of

t he puree, which considerably decreases shelf life.
The puree must a lways be rhorough ly heated in
order ro prevent bacteriological concaminacion
of the fruit. Some purees contain quire a lor of
sugar. In order nor to make too sweet a ganache,
it is recommended co add less or no sucrose and
inve rt sugar co the recipe.

With freeze-dried fruit chunks

Freeze-drying or lyophilising is a process whereby

the foods tuffs are qu ickly frozen and placed in
a vacuum. By means of sublimation' che created
ice is converted inco vapour, which is rapidly
vacuumed.

After lyophilisarion, foodstuffs can be stored

safely and moistu re-free and will reacquire rheir
earl ier properties by adding wacer. A well-known
application is instanc coffee and in pharmaceuti-
cals, blood plasma and a number of antibiotics.

In che moist envi ronmenr of the ganache, the

Freeze-dried fruir chunks slowly absorb moisture
until samrated. Th is can be accompanied by the
partial drying of the ganache. That is why it is
recommended ro soften the fruic for one night
in a 30° Baume sugar syrup. Adding invcrc sugar
a nd/or glyceri ne also partially prevents che drying
ouc process.

With freeze-dried fruit crystals

D ue to cheir delicacy, freeze-dried fru it

crysta ls can be used co provide chocolate with
a fru ity flavour. White chocolate can furcher-
morc acqui re a speckled or marbled colour.
For further information and production:
www.mastercasre.com

' Sublimation means che direcc conversion of solid in co

gaseous state 0 1· vice versa.
 FRUTTY

Aw 0.751

300 g ~unose Caramelise rhe sucrose and glucose unril rhey acqui re an anraccive
150 g gluw~l· golden brown colour. Quench che caramel by carefully adding the
-too gcn:am cream in smalJ quancicies. Conrinue ro cook. In the meantime bring
300 ~banana purec the banana and passion fruit puree ro the boil and add ir co che cream
100 g passio n fruir puree mixrure. Continue ro heat co ro5°c (221°F). Leave rhe mixture ro cool
150 g huucr unril lukewarm before foldin g in rhe room-remperarurc bUlter and
100 g white chocolare the prccrystallised white chocolate. Pour moulds wirh dark chocolare.
AJlow the chocolare ro harden sufficiencly before filling che moulds wich
rhe fruic ganache. Leave to crystallise slightly before sealing the moulds.
 RH U BA RB

ISt layer: Kr1/.nmansi jam 1

250 g kabmansi pun:c (Boiron)
12 g pectin (yellQ\\ band)
350 g sucrose
150 g g lucose
J g rarcaric acid
Heat the puree. In rhe meanrime blend the pectin with the sucrose and
add co the fruit. Bring co che boil and add rhe glucose. Continue to heat
co 107°c (225°F). Blend the tartaric acid d issolved in a li tcle water imo the
fruit dough and immediately pour the dough inro a 5-mm hig h frame.

wd layer: Rhubarb ganache Aiv 0.855

80 g cream
roo g glucose Bring the cream, glucose, sorbirol, buner, and pu ree to the boil.
30 g sorbiwl Pour the mixrure onro the chocolate drops. Leave to fu lly cool until
200 g rhubarb puret> slight crystallisation rakes place around the edges. Beac the ganache
300 g da rk chocolact> unril smooch before spreading it evenly on the jam in a second 5-mm
300 g milk chocolact> high frame. Leave to crystallise sufliciencly before spreading a t hin layer
juice of 1,~ lime of chocolate on the ganache. Turn over the slab a nd cut using a wire
i.oo g butter slicer. Dip into dark chocolate and garnish.

• Tue kalamansi (or calamans) has a light , nutmeg-like flavour and is somewhat less sour
chan lime. Its chin peel is smooth and green. Very ripe specimens arc someti mes yel low.
They originate from the Philippines and are often used in Malaysia, Singapore and
Thailand.
 RASPBERRY GANAC HE WITH SAFFRON

Awo.687

130 gcream Hear rhe cream, saffron and sorbirol, add the raspberry puree and
0.3 g saffron bring ro che boil. Pour the cream mixcure through a suainer omo rhe
20 g sorbicol chocolate drops. Stir into a smooth cream. Cool as quickly as possible to
130 g raspberry purce below 30°c (86°F) before piping inco chocolate shells. Allow the ganache
600 g m ilk chocolate to crystallise sufficiently before sealing the moulds with chocolarc.
 CU RRA NT CANAC H E

Base

.+OOg gi.mduj.i Spread a chin layer of precrystallised chocolarc on a Sil pat mat or acccace
so-g pr.1 li11e foil. Immediately place a 4-mm high frame on 1hc srill liquid chocolace.
70 g Paillctc h:ulklin.: Mix the precrysralliscd gianduja with the pral ine and Paillcre Feullerine
and pour the mixcure into che frame.

300 g curram puree Ganache Aw 0.884

30 g sorbi to!
670 g milk d10cobce Bring the currant puree and sorbitol to the boil. Pour the puree onto
60 g inn-n sugar the chocolate drops. add the invert sugar and lastly, the Cointreau.
100 g Cointrc.rn Allow to cool to approximately i.5°c (77 °F) before folding in the
100 g huttcr room-temperarnre butter. Place a second frame on the base and fill
with the ganache. Leave to cryscallise. Unmou ld and cu1 to che desired
dimensions using a wire slicer. Dip inro dark chocolate and garnish.
 PASSION

Aw 0.663

1)0 g bu ucr Bring che bucrcr to room 1emperacure and add che honey. Subsequently
wo g honey add rhc praline and passion fruit purcc. Lasdy, fold in the tempered
200 g pr.ilim: )O/)o milk chocolate. Pour inco a 10-mm high frame and allow ro fully
50 g pa,~ion fru i1 pu rcc crystallise before co,·ering wirh a chin layer of tempered dark chocolate
IOOO g milk diocnlate co create rhe base. Turn over rhe slab and cul 10 rhe desired dimensions,
using a wire slicer. Dip inco dark chocolate. Garnish.
 GANAC H E MET RA I S I NS

Aw 0.849

')O g raisins Soak the raisins in the cognac for one nighr. Puree rhe raisins in a
60 g cognac (60°) blender. Bring rhe cream to the boil. Pour the cream onco the chocolate
350 g cream drops and add lhe puree. Allow co cool to approximately 25°c (77°F),
650 g milk chocolate briefly srir che ganache before pouring the mixture into a frame.
Leave co crystallise sufficiently before covering with a thin layer of
dark chocolate co create rhe base. Allow to fully crystallise before
turning over the slab and curcing it using a wire slicer. Dip into dark
chocolace. Garnish.
 BANA NA

Awo.813

400 g cream Bring rhe cream and cur vanilla pod to the boil. Add the gl ucose,
r vanilla pod sorbirol, banana puree and butter and rerurn ro a boil. Pour the boi ling
80 g glucose mixrnre through a strainer omo the chocolate drops and blend into a
60 g sorbicol smooth mass. Add lemon juice ac the end. Cool the mixture as quickly
200 g banana puree as possible unril slight crystallisation cakes place arou nd t he edges.
r70 g hurter Immediately pipe into the chocolate shells. Allow the ganachc co
400 g white chocolare crystallise slightly before closing the moulds.
600 g milk chocolarc
20 g lemon juice
 MANGO WITll SAFrRON

llO g UC.Im Bring che cream, saffron and sorbicol co che boil, add the mango puree
20g sorhitol and recurn co a boil. Pour che mixcure chrough a scrainer onto che
130 g mango purcc chocolace drops. Blend into a smooch cream. Cool as quickly as possible
0.5 g ,,1ffro11 co below 30°c (86°F) before piping inro a frame. Apply a chin layer
600 g milk ~hornl;uc of dark chocolace co che surface as soon as che ganache is sufficiendy
cryscallised. Remove the ganache slab from chc frame and turn over
before curring using a wire slicer. Dip che pralines imo dark chocolace
and garnish.
 FOR EST

Aiu 0.795

g cream
100 Bring the cream, Aeur de sel and puree to rhe boil. Allow co cool to
1g Aeur de sel1 below 70°c (158 "p) before folding in rhe honey. Leave to fully cool
90 g billhcrry purec before adding the tempered chocolate. Pour inro a 10-111111 high frame
30 g honey and allow to fully crysrallise before covering with a rhin layer of dark
450 g milk chocolare chocolate ro create the base. Turn over rhe slab and cur to the d esired
dimensions, using a wire slicer. Dip inro dark chocolare and ga rnish.

' Fleur de scl. \'Vith its line structure and specia l aroma, th is salr is considered ro
be the besr kitchen salr in culinary circles. 11 is harvested in evaporation basins along
the Mcdi1crrant"3n Sea and Atlantic Ocean. A chin film is creared on the water.
This film is rhe Aeur de sel. 11 is extremely carefully scooped from the warer and
collected. Flcur de sel is not cheap, since only a small quanriry is produced by hand.
Only 1 kg of salr is produced for each JS m'.
 C H ES T NUT LOG

Aw 0.830

400 g cream Bring che cream, che chescnuc puree and rhe cinnamon ro rhe boil.
150 g chestnut puree (sugar-free) Pour rhe mixrure into rhe food processor on the dark chocolate d rops
2 g dnnamon and add the honey and rum. Beat the ganache briefly ar high speed.
500 g dark chocolate Allow co cool ro approximarely 25°c (77°F).
250 g honey
40 g rum Blend in rhe precrystallised milk chocolate. Pipe rhe ganache inro dark
500 g milk chocolace chocolate shells. Leave co crysrallise slightly before dosing the mo ulds.
 L AVENDER

Awo...20

no g cream Bring the cream and the lavender co che boil and allow lO infuse
1 g dried lavender for approximarcly 30 minuces. Scrain the cream. Caramelise che sucrose
100 g ~llCfO\C and glucose until chey acquire an arcracrive golden brown colour.
10 g glurnsc Carefully quench rhe caramel wirh rhc cream and add che butcer and
50 g hu11er lime juice. Scir choroughly uncil che mixcure has melccd and pour
1og limc juill' rhe caramel onco the chocolare drops. Leave co fully cool until slighr
70 g d.irk cho~olall' solidification rakes place around che bowl's rim. Blend thoro ughly a nd
100 g milk cho.:ol.ue immediacely pipe che ganache inro chocolace sheik Leave co crysrallisc
sufficiently before sealing the moulds with chocolace.
 PACIF I C

Aw 0.790

350 g cream Break the Chinese anise and cinnamon imo smaller chunb in order to
fO g gluco5e release as much aroma as possible. Bring cream, glucose, sorbi1ol and
JO g sorhirol spices ro the boil. Leave ro infuse unril rhc cream reaches approximarely
2 g cinnamon(= ~4 pod) 30°c (86°F). Strain rhc mixture omo che precrysrallised chocolate and
l. Chinese anise fold in che room-rcmperarure butter. Pour into a frame and leave co
4 g ginger sufficiendy crystallise before covering wirh a thin layer of chocolarc,
.l50 Jark dwcof;1te (60%) which will lacer be used as the base. Turn over che slab and cue ro
500 g milk chocolate rhe desired dimensions, using a wire slicer. Dip imo dark chocolate.
30 g huncr Garnish with decoration.
 COCNAC GANAC H E

Awo.837

100 gcream Bring the cream, zesc and bucrcr to che boil, ad<l thc honey and allow w
zcsc of 1 orange peel infuse until it reaches room ccmperature. Pour through a scrainer onto
20 g b1111cr the precrystallised chocolate. Add the cognac and blend inro a smooch
50 g honey cream. Pour chocolacc shells. Pipe che ganache imo che chocolate shell~
300 g mil k chocolart• and allow co crysrallise sufficiencly before scaling chc moulds wirh
so g wgnac (60%) chocolace.
 HO N E Y G ANAC H E W ITll C I NN AMO N

Aw 0.-60

1000 g cream Bring rhe cream and cinnamon co rhe boil, strain the mixture onco
.lg cinnamon powder rhe honey and subsequently onro rhe chocolate drops. Leave co cool
'oo g honey co below 30°c (86°F). Pipe the ganache imo milk chocolate shel ls.
IOOO g 111 ii k chorn Li w Leave ro crystallise slightly before scaling rhe moulds with chocolate.
rooo g dark chornlarc:
 RIO

Aw 01 80

400 gneam Bring the syrup, saffron and burrer co rhe boil. Allow to cool to
0.5g saffron below 70°c (158°F) and add chc honey. Leave co cool and srrain onro
60 g burrer rhe rempered chocolare. Pour inro a 10-mm high frame and allow co
too g honey fully crysrallise before covering wirh a rhin layer of tempered milk
1000 g milk chocolate chocolare co creare rhe base. Turn over the slab and cue co the desired
dimensions, using a wire slicer. Dip inro dark chocolate. Garnish.
 SUNNY

Aw 0.825

100 g Crl..".1111 Bring rhe cream , glucose, dried lavender and burcer co the boil.
80 g glt11.1l\I: Leave to fully cool and strain onro che tempered chocolate.
s g dried lavender Lasrly fold in chc liqueur. Pour inco a 10-mm high frame a nd allow
120 g butter co fully cryscallise before covering with a chin layer of rempered dark
500 g <lark cl10col.w.: chocolare ro create che base. Turn over che slab and cut to the desired
50 g .111isc liqueur (e.g., uurn) dimensions, using a wire slicer. Dip inco dark chocolate. Garnish.
 PALET o'o R WIT H SA F FRON

Aw 0.824

600 g U"l',l lll Bring rhe cream, buuer, sorbitol and saffron threads ro che boil.
1 :!5 g bmtcr Leave ro cool co below 30°c (86°F), blend in che inven sugar and strain
JS g snrhitol or glycerol rhe mixture onro rhe rempered chocolate. In che meancime stencil
0 .5 g ,affron thin, round slices with the help of a rubber stenci l (PCB Rl:.f. PR06A).
75 g in\'crc 'ugar Using an smooch cip of approximately 8 mm diamercr, pipe even bal ls
850 g dark c hocol.m· onro the chocolare bases. Place a 1-cm slat on eicher side of rhe piped
sheer. Place a silicone sheet on the piped balls and cover with a slab.
Press rhe slab against both le,·elling guides, in order ro create balls char
are of 1he same height.

Remove rhe slab, and allow the pralines to thoroughly crystallise in

rhe refrigerator before removing che silicone sheec. In 1he meantime cu1
long strips of clear aceta te sheer (PCB REF. OF016) or another shiny foil or
Plexiglas. Allow the pralines ro reach room temperature before dipping
chem inro dark chocolate. Immediately press che shiny foil evenly on rhe
still liquid c hocolace. In order co maximise shine, ic is best to wait abour
ren hours before removing the foil. Garnish in che middle wirh some
gold leaf.

PA L ET o ' OR WITH LAVEN D ER

)OO g<.ream Proceed as described abo\'e.

•I g <lrkd Ja,cnJ er
lO g 'orhitol or glyu!rnl Comparative shelf life between the use of sorbirol or glycerol:
650 g d a rk chornlatl' Aw 0.855 for sorbirol and Aw 0.818 for glycerol.
 AMARETT O

soo g gi:rnduja Firsc make the gianduja bases. Mix rhe tempered gianduja wirh rhe
100 g f>a illete Feuilletindhrokcn) paiUere feuillerine. Roll into a 3-mm layer. Cut our round bases of
approx. 20 mm diamecer and the same number of caps.

Ganacht

lOO g cream Boil rhe cream with rhe glucose and pour over rhe chocolate drops.
150 g glucose Leave co cool co approximately 30°C (86°F). Sofcen the butter and
1ooo g Ill ii k c. ho..:olare fold inco che mixwre. Add rhe amarerro. Allow the ganache ro slighcly
ioo g hucrcr crystallise before piping ir into balls on the gianduja bases. Place a cap
qo g .11nan:cw on chem and allow co sufficiencly crystallise before dipping rhe ganachc
into dark chocolare.
 CRISPY

Awo.810

1000 g cream Bring the cream, coffee and haielnuc pasrc co che boil. Pour onco che
80 g findy ground rnfft:c chocolare drops and leave co cool co below 30°c (86°P). Add the room-
150 g pure hazelnut r.i~tc temperacure butter and immediately pour che mixture inro a frame
moo g dark choc.:olatl' approx. 10 mm high. Allow co sufficiently crystallise before spreading
1500 g milk c.: hocolatc a chin layer of dark chocolate on che surface, which will become the
150 g bucr1:r base. Turn over and cover with a thin layer of chocolate. Immediately
sprinkle Rice Krispies generously on the scill liquid chocolate and press
in place. Cuc co che desired dimensions using a wire slicer. Dip inco dark
chocolace.
 CARDAMOM

Awo.803

700 g cream G rind or crush the cardamom as finely as possible. Bring the cream,
3 g cardamom cardamom and coffee ro rhe boil. Leave to simmer for 15 minmes
10 g coffee before pouring rhe cream rhrough a strainer onto the melred chocolace.
r700 g m ilk chocolace Add rhe invert sugar. Allow ro cool to approxi mately 30°c (86°P) before
70 g invcrr sugar folding in the room-temperature butrer. Briefly emulsify rhe ganache
150 g butter in rhe food processor and immediately pour inro a frame. Allow to
sufficiently crysrallise before spreading a thin layer of chocolate on
the surface, which will become the base. After sufficieru hardening,
tu rn over the ganache slab and cue using wire slicer. Dip rhe pralines
inro milk chocolace.
 P I S T ACHIO GANAC H E

Awo.760

350 g cream Bring che cream ro che boil and pour omo chocolace drops. Add invert
700 g whire chocolace sugar and puree. Allow ro cool co approximacely 28°c (82.4°F) before
45 g inverr sugar folding in che room-cemperacure bucter. Spread rhe ganache in a
130 g pistachio puree (100%) frame approx. 10 mm high and allow ro sufficiently crysrallise before
150 g bucter spreading a chin layer of chocolare on che surface, co be used as rhe base.
Afrer hardening, mrn over che slab and cue co the desired dimensions,
using a wire slicer. Dip into dark chocolace.

Nore: If you have no pistachio puree available, crush fresh pisrachios in

rhe food processor imo puree.
 MARZIPAN GANACHE

Awo.850

400 g cream Place che marzipan in rhe food processor. Bring rhe cream to the boil.
1000 g marzipan 50/50 Pour che cream onto the marzipan. Beat brieAy into homogeneous
750 g milk chocolau:: dough. Fold in the chocolate and subsequenrly rhe liqueur ro taste.
160 g amaretm liqueur (60%)
Fill praline moulds with chocolare and leave them co crysrallise before
piping the ganache into the chocolate shells to 2 mm from the rim.
Leave che ganache to crystallise sufficiently before sealing the moulds
with a layer of chocolate.
 SER EH

Awo.778

2+0 g cream Cur or chop rhe sereh as finely as possible and add ro che cream.
+o g glucose Bring the cream, sereh and glucose to che boil.
40 g screh (lemongrass)
70 g piscachio purce Allow to simmer until the cream mixrure reaches a temperature
500 g chocolate of approximately 30°c (86°F). Subsequently strain the mixrure onto
So g huccer rhe melted cbocolarc with a similar temperarure. Fold in che puree.
If you do not have piscachio puree available, grind pistachio nurs in
a food processor into a paste. Blend the room-temperature butter into
rhe ganache. Pipe inco rhe chocolate shells and allow to c ryscallise
sufficiently before sealing che moulds with chocolate.
 ORA NGIN A

Awo.759

600 g cream Bring rhe cream, glucose, zesr, cinnamon powder, va nilla pod and
70 g glucose cloves ro rhe boil. Cover and leave ro si mmer unci l rhe infusion reaches
JO g orange zest approximately 25°c (77°F), blend in rhe honey and srrain the mixture
10 g cinn:unon powder omo rhe precrystallised chocolate.
4 cloves
111 vanilla pod Pour che ganache imo a frame approximately 10 mm high. Leave to
)O g honey cryscallise sufficiently before spreadi ng a chin layer of chocolate on the
1450 g choLolate surface. Turn rhe chocolare slab upside down and cur using a wi re sl icer.
Dip inco milk chocolate.
 CREAM WITH RUM

Aw 0 . .,52

.~oo g cream Create round chocolate bases wirh the help of a stencil (rcB PR06A) .
0.2 g c.1ycnnl' pl·ppcr
40 g 'orhiwl or glylcrol Bring che cream, cayenne pepper and sorbiiol (or glycerol) ro rhe boil
r200 g milk chocolate and leave co cool to approxima1e room remper:uure. Add the orher
50 g im·er1 sugar ingredienrs 10 1he food processor and pour 1hc cooled cream onro rhe
150 g buuer mixrure. Bear brieAy inro a smooch ganachc. Pipe oval rosettes onro rhe
Rog rum (60°) chocolate bases, using a special rip for rose leaves. Leave to crystallise
sufficienrly before dipping inro chin, liquid dark chocolate(± 70%).
CUVETTES (BOWLS)
Cuvecces are prcshapcd chocolare cups, which are
subsequendy filled.
lhe advanrages of rhis merhod are:
- The cups can be made during calmer periods
and srored in boxes. ff an order comes in,
the cups can be filled quire quickly.
- le gives rhe pralines a more home-made and
personalised appearance. Moulded chocolates
are considered robe more of a manufactured
product by our customers, since these moulds
can also be seen ar rhe competition. In addition,
there is nor much creativity in the finish of dipped
chocolates.
- More liquid centres can be piped into these
rhan into traditional moulded chocolates.
- You do not need as many moulds, since
rhe shells can quire easily be unmoulded.
- Several shapes are suitable for making cuvecces.
The bottom of the praline must be quite even
and ir has co have uprighc sides.
Although cuverces are also creaced in moulds,
rhe merhod used is different rhan for rrad icional
moulded chocolates. In d1e unmoulded cups rhe
rop is now rhe bocrom. Th is means rhac rhe rim
of the cup must be even and glossy.
Method:
The mould is filled wirh chocolate in accordance
with the craditional method and vibrated.
When leaving the excess chocolate to run over,
rhe mould must be kept horizontally with the
opening facing rhe bonom. The mou ld is quickly
rurned, while che excess chocolate runs over.
The mould surface muse be evened out using a
palette knife before carefully being put to rhe side
to allow the chocolate to crystallise. Place in the
cooler. Do nor remove the moulds in the traditional
way, bur manually cake our che chocolate shells
and arrange chem on sheers or trays.
PRALINE JN GANACHE CUVETTES EGG LIQU EUR I N GA N ACHE CUVETTES

Pipe praline inco che chocolare shells up ro one Pipe praline inco rhe chocolace shells up ro one
third of cheir height. Pipe•,, cream over the third of their height. Slighdy hear a litde butter
praline. cream umil it has che same consistency as the egg
liqueur. Carefully pipe this thick liquid c ream for
Finishing couch: Blend 2.00 g cream with 200 g another chird over che liqueur. Place che bowl in
bitter chocolate (70'!0) (Aw 0.811). Using a fluced the cooler until the buuer cream has sufficiently
tip, pipe a rosette in order to seal the cuvettes. solidi fled.
Make sure the rim of the cuvette is still visible. To
garnish sprinkle some crushed nucs on the rosettes. To garnish, pipe ganache in the shape of a rosette,
as described above.
Burrer cream Aw o.8I2
F.gg liqumr
500 g butter
500 g fondant sugar 8 egg yolks
200 g condensed milk (or cream) JOO g sucrose
seeds of 1 vanilla pod
Bear the burcer in the processor uncil foamy. 400 g condensed milk
Add che fondanc sugar lictlc by lirrle while 200 g cognac
scirring thoroughly. Add che condensed milk 50 g alcohol (90°)
and blend inco an arcractive smooth cream.
Place rhe yolks, sucrose and vanilla seeds into
a blender. Blend briefly unril rhe yolks wrn
lighrer in colour. Slowly rrickle rhe milk onto
the mixture, wirh the blender ar irs highest speed.
Lastly, add rhe cognac and alcohol. Blend ac least
one more minure ar rhe highesc speed. Score rhe
egg liqueur in glass bocrlcs in a dark place. This
liqueur can be easily kept for one year. If you do
nor have 90° alcohol available, replace rhe 200 g
cognac and 50 g alcohol with 200 g 60° liqueur.
R UM CREAM I N GANACHE CUVETTES
Flavour the burrer cream (see recipe page 182)
wirh rum. Pipe rhis cream inro rhe chocolace
shells to a height of2A of che shell. Add 100 g
chocolate to roo g butter cream and pipe with
che help of a smooch rip in ball shapes into che
cuvetces. Garnish.

CAR AM EL IN GANACHE CUVETTES

Pipe caramel imo chocolate shells to half rheir

height (for caramel recipe see The caramellising
of sugars, page. u 1). flavollr che burcer cream
with coffee (see page i82 on how to make coffee
flavouring). Pipe~ coffee butter cream inro
the shells. Di lure milk chocolate wicb a licrle
cocoa buccer in order to be able co seal che shells.
Garnish wirh gold leaf
AN ISE CR EAM IN GANAC H E CUVETT ES

Pipe anise cream co a heighr of 3A inco rhe

shells and leave co sciffen slightly in rhe cooler.
Bring back co room rcmperamre before sealing
rhe shells wirh dark chocolare. Garnish by piping
a decorarive lerrer A.

Anise cream Aw 0.861

i500 g fondanc sugar

150 g anise liqueur (ouzo, raki or orher)
100 g alcohol (90°)
lo egg yolks
125 g bucrcr

Slowly hear rhe fondanr sugar unril lukewarm.

Add rhe alcohol and anise liqueur in small
quanciries, rhen rhe egg yolks one by one and
lasdy, rhe burrer ar room remperarure.
LA Y E R S FOR C OMBI NED CU TTI NG
PRALIN ES
A combinarion of rwo separace Aavours can
Jdd ,·alue co che praline. The flavour of che
bocrom layer can provide harmony wirh rhe
upper ganache layer. The praJine is also more
accraccivc if you discover rwo separace layers
when biting in ic or cutting ic.
Below you will find a number of recipe~ for
sofr sliceable dough, which will enable you co
co develop your own new crearions. Obviously.
chcrc arc various possibilities. You can create
layers of fruit dough, sofc praline, ganache
wit h crunchy bits, sofc caramel and many
more. Make your choice from one of rhe recipes
below. Pour rhe recipe inro a frame. When it has
solidified, cover wirh a second frame in which
you will subsequcnrly pour a suitable ganachc
of your choice.
FR U IT Y LA Y ERS
fruit dough umh bnnnnns
40 g pcccin (yellow band)
uoo g sucrose
800 g banana puree
300 g apricoc pulp
300 g glucose
15 g 1;maric acid dissolved
in a lie de water
In order co prevent pecti n from clotting, fi rst mix
the pecrin wirh rhc sucrose.
Add chc mixwre co the puree and bring to the
boil. Add the glucose and conrinue to heac ro
approximacely 107°c {225°F).
Add chc carcaric acid, scir thoroughly and pour
immcdiacely into a frame on a Silpar mar.
Fmit dough with pears Caramelise the sucrose and glucose unril chey ac-
quire an amaccive golden brown colour. Add
ro g pccrin (yellow band) che vanilla pod and baking soda to rhe cream.
500 g suc rose Slowly and carefully quench the caramel wirh rhe
500 g pear puree cream. Bring rhe syrup co che boil, remove the
100 g glucose vanilla pod and add rhe bucrer. Continue to heat
5 g lartaric acid dissolved in a licclc wacer che syrup to l20°C (248°F). lmmediarely pour che
caramel into a frame and allow ro cool and sriffen
Mechod: See above. sufficiencl) before applying a layer of ganache.

Fruit dough with apricots

PR A LI N F LAYLR S
30 g pcclin
1200 g sucrose
1000 g apricot puree Alumarive r:
350 g glucose
12 g ranaric acid 500 g praline (50% sugars - 50% hazelnuts or
almonds or a mixture of both)
Merhod: See above, bm boil che mixcure co 10; c 0
300 g dark chocolace (or 350 g milk chocolate or
(225°P) or 75° Brix. 400 g white chocolate)
Iris possible co mix in someching crunch}>
for example between 80 and 100 g Paille1c
C ARA MEL LAYERS Feulletinc (by Barry or Callebaur).

Srir rhc praline imo an atrraccive homogeneous

Altemtttive I dough, since afrer long immobilicy the nut
oil will come ro che surface and heavier, dry
250 g sucrose subscances will sink to che bonom. Combine
400 g cream chc praline with the precryscallised chocolate.
8 g baking soda Pour the mixture imo a frame on a Silpat mat
60 g invert sugar and allow co crystallise before applying another
100 g burter layer.
600 g m ii k chocolare
250 g da rk chocolate Alternntive 2:

Caramellise the sucrose unril ir displays an 100 g sesame seeds

accractive golden brown colour. Slowly and
carefully quench the caramel with the cream.
Add the baking soda, invert sugar and butcer and
pour onco chocolare drops. Immediately pour into
a frame on a Silpac mac. Leave co stiffen and cool
sufficiently before applying a layer of ganache.
300 g gianduja
Roasc the se\ame ~eeds. Blend che cooled seeds
inco che precrystallised gianduja. Spread che
dough in a frame on a Silpat mat and allow co
crystallise before applying another layer.

Alternative 2:

450 g sucrose
70 g g lucose
450 g cream
11 vanilla pod
10 g b.tking soda
270 g butter
 P R A L INE W ITH PASS ION F R U I T

1st layer Aw 0.644

15 g pectin Blend the pectin and che sucrose and subsequently che puree. Bring rhe
soo g sucrose mixture 10 the boil. Strain. Add the glucose and invert sugar and
500 g pa\\iOll fru il plHCl' continue ro heat co 108°c (226°F or 75° Brix). Add the carraric acid
So g gluco'c dissoh·ed in a liccle water, mix thoroughly and immediately pour inro
80 g invert \Ug.u a 4-mm frame on a Silpac mat.
5 g tarcaril.. ad<l

100 g cream wd layer Aw 0.625

300 g honey
800 g milk d10.;ol:11c Bring the cream and honey to the boil. Pour the mixture onco
600 g pral ine (50% h.11dnut\ - the melted chocolate. Mix choroughly before folding in 1he praline.
so•:.. caramel 'ugdr) Finally blend in che butter brought to room temperature. If rhe ganache
.!50 g huucr looks like ir might curdle, place ir in the refrigerator unt il approximately
one founh of che quanriry scares crystallising. Then brieAy bear che
ganache in the food processor and pour ir as quickly as possible inco
a frame approximately 7 mm high on rop of che first frame. Leave
co crystallise sufficiencly before covering with a chin layer of dark
chocolate to creace che base. Allow co fully crystallise before tu rning
rhe rwo-layered slab upside down. Cur co rhe desired dimensio ns using
a wire slicer. Dip inco 70% dark chocolate. Garnish.
 WHIT£ CARDAMOM WITH OLIVE OIL GANACH£

A1v 0.810 ISt layer

350 g bmcer Blend che room-cemperamre burcer wich che cempered chocolace.
900 g dark chocolace Add rhe olive oil and mix rhoroughly. Spread in a frame in a 6-mm
roo g ex(ra virgin olive oil layer.

300 g cream 211d layer

8 g crushed cardamom
600 g white chocolate Boil rhe cream wich che crushed cardamom. Pour through a strainer
omo the white chocolate. Temper and pour over che 6rst layer until
approximacely 4 mm chick.

Leave co crysrallise sufficiencly before spreading a eh in layer of dark

chocolace on che surface. Turn che slab upside down, wich che help of
a wire slicer cue ro che desired size. Dip into cempered dark chocolate
and garnish.
 VAN I LLA CANACHE WIT H RASPBE R RY COUL IS

Coulis

200 g ra,phi:rry puri:c Bring the purce wilh lhe glucose and sorbirol ro the boi l. M ix the
25 g glurn~c sucrose wirh rhe peccin, add to lhe purce and continue to heat
20 g 'orbitol uncil 104°c (220°F). Leave to fully cool, before filling one third of
2.5 g 'ucrnse the chocolate shells.
4 g pcccin

250 g cr~-am Vanilla gnnnche Aw 0.809

1 \'anilla pod
10 g glucose Bring the cream and a cue vanilla pod, glucose and sorbitol co the boi l.
20 g sorhicol Pour onro the chocolate drops and blend imo a homogeneous ganache.
500 g milk chornlatc Allow co cool co approximately 30°c (86 °F) before folding in rhe room·
lO g hurter temperature buner. Pipe two-thirds of the ganache omo the coulis.
Leave to cryscallise sufficiencly before sealing rhe moulds wich chocolare.
 TR IP LEX

Jst layer Aw o.826

200 g coconm Oakes Pour rhe rum onco rhe coconut flakes and leave co sec for 15 mi nu tes.
110 g rum (60°) In chc food processor add che fondanc sugar little by lirrle co chc
600 g marzipan •,Ii marzipan and blend. Lisdy, add the coconut Aakes. Spread a chin layer
550 g fondam sugar of white chocolate on a Silpat mar, che size of the frame. Place the frame
wo g whire chocolare on the still liquid chocolate. Roll chc dough in the frame ro a th ickness
of approximately 5 mm.

350 g cream wd layer Aw 0.790

50 g glucose
I50 g bu tcer Bring the cream, glucose and burrer to the boil and pour onro the
850 g chocolate chocolate drops. Leave ro fully cool unril slight crystallisation takes
place around the edges. Mix thoroughly and immediately pour a
5-mm layer inro a frame on the first layer. Leave co crysta llise sufficiently
before unmoulding and curring ro the desired size using a wire sl icer.
 A PRI COT

1s1 l11yer.-frui1 dough

250 g apricot ru ree Hear rhe apricot puree. In the meantime blend rhe pectin with the
JOO g 'tKro~c sucrose and add to apricot puree. Bring to the boil and add the glucose.
~
g !'CLCin Heat che mixcurc co 105°c (221°F) or 74° Brix. Blend the tarraric acid
100 ggluw'c dissolved in a linle water inco the fruit dough and
Jg 1artaric JLiJ pour the dough immediately into a frame to 5 mm high.

125 g crc.1111 2nd layer: Coriander g111111che

_) g ground rnriandcr
250 g milk chocolate Jrops Bring the cream and coriander co the boil. Strain the mixture onto
80 g gianduja the c hocolate drops and the chopped gia nduja and blend thoroughly.
25 g invert 'ugar Add rhe invert ~ugar and allow co cool co approximately 35°c (95°F)
~o g bmccr before folding in the room-temperature burrer. Place a 5-mm frame
on the firsr layer and immediately pour the ganache over the fruit
dough. Leave to Cr)'Stallise sufficientl)' before covering with a chin
layer of dark chocolate to create che base. T urn over after allowing it
co fully crysrallise. Cur co che desired dimensions using a wire slicer.
Dip into dark chocolate and garnish.
 POPPING FEELI NG

1st layer

250 g milk c.:hocolacc Blend the precryscallised chocolare wirh rhe praline paste and Popping
1"75 g praline paste Candy and pour into a 3-mm frame.
100 g popping candr 1

100 gcream 211d ftlJer Awo.812

80" o[ucosc
::-o
140 g hutter Bring the cream, glucose, lavender and butter to the boil. Leave to
4 g finely ground dried lavender infuse until the cream is fully cooled. Add the Dutch gin. Pour through
85 g lemon gin (of 70 g Dutch gin. a strainer onto the precrysrallised chocolate. Place a 6-mm frame on
brandy or other grain <lisrillate che firsr frame and fill wich ganache. After sufficienr crysrallisation,
wi(h 15 g lemon juice) cu rn over rhe slab in order ro apply a chin layer of chocolare base.
250 g dark chocolate Make sure rhar rhe chocolate layer is at the bottom ro be able co cur
300 g milk chocolate the slab using the wire slicer. Dip inro milk chocolate and garnish.

' Popping Candr: small particles consisting of sugar. laccose and glucose contain ing
0.3-2 ml/g of carbon dioxide. When in concact with moisture a slighc crunching sound
and feeling in rhe mouch, is created. Is achieved under high tcmpcrnture and pressure
in a carbon dioxide environment. 111is results in the splitcing of the sugars inro glucose
and fruccose and che product having become highlr hygroscopic. Therefore ic muse
be processed and remain in a dry environment (for exa mple, enclosed in cocoa buccer.
praline, gianduja. etc.). Nutricional analysis (for too g): energy (calories) 38s, protein
o g. carbohydrates 100 g, faro g, sodium o mg. For furchcr information, see:
www.zetaespacial.com.
THE FLAVOURING OF C HO C OLATE - 'Jhe oldest and most widespread mechod is by
means of hydrolysis with an acid. The reaction
is irreversible and the acid acts as a caralyst.
Since spices are planes char still conrain moisture, - By means of enzymatic hydrolysis
they cannot be used co Aavour chocolate and In this case the enzyme invercase is used.
it is recommended to first create an infusion of This inverc sugar is desirable for products that
c hocolace and cocoa burrer. A number of examples have to remain extremely soft, sometimes even
can be found below: nearly liquid. lbis inverr sugar should nor be
heated above 70°c (158°F).
Mint - Inversion by means of ion exchange resins.
These exrremely acid resins release hydrogen ions,
150 g cocoa bmrer which caralyse che hydrolysis.
50 g fresh mine leaves
3000 g chocolate The first mechod is che simplest co make invert
sugar.
Red pepper
Option 1
150 gcocoa burrer
So g red pepper 750 g sucrose
3000 g chocolate 250 g wacer
22 g carcaric acid
Va 11ill11 22 g warer
24 g baking soda
150 g cocoa butter 24 g warer
7 vanilla pods
3000 g chocolare Heat and stir rhe sugar and che water co 93°c
(200°F). Dissolve rhe rarcaric acid in the water.
Chop or grind the planes or spices as finely as Keep rhe rcmpcrarure ar 93°c (200°r) for one hour.
po~ible, in order for them co release as much aroma Dissolve chc baking soda in wacer and add co the
as possible. Meir the cocoa butter. Add che planrs/ sugar syrup co neurralise the syrup. The pH must
spices and mix choroughly. Leave co rest overnighc. be 4.5. Cool che inverced sugar as quickly as possible
Meir the cocoa butter to approximarely 50°c (122°F) in order co avoid major discolourarion.
and srrain. Leave to cool co ± 30°c (± 86°r) and
blend into rhe chocolate. Option 2

750 g sucrose
MAKING I NVE RT SUGAR 250 g water
32 g cirric acid
32 g wacer
Even rhough invert sugar is frequencly used in 34 g baking soda
ganache recipes in many coumries, this sugar is 34 g water
sometimes difficult to find or cannot be found
ac all in some countries. In this case, honey is an Proceed as described above.
acceptable alternative, even if the honey Havour is
not always desirable in some recipes. Furthermore,
1
honey is considerably more expensive than invert MAKlNC ALMON D M I LK
sugar. That is why ic is sometimes useful to make
your own invert sugar.
100 g almond powder
There are several industrial methods co make 400 g warcr
inverc sugar. A licrle \'anilla, co taste
Bring che water a nd almond powder ro rhe boil
and simmer for approximarely 10 minutes. Place
rhe mixrure in a blender, add a lirde vanilla ro
rasre, and briefly blend rhe mixcure at the highesr
speed in order ro release che maximum amount of
almond oil. If necessary, pour rhe milk rhrough
an extra-fine strainer, in order ro remove small
fibres, which are not desirable in all applicati-
ons. Allow rhe milk ro cool quickly. Score in rhe
refrigeraror.
Nore: Since almonds are rich in almond oil
(60% oil), rhis a lmond milk is nor only suitable
for ganaches. Ir can also be used in rhe kirchen
for the preparation of sauces and all types of
desserts. For chese applicacions is nor always
necessary co srrain che milk.
For drinks, greac combinarions of almond milk
are possible. In rhis case, use 500 g wacer for 100 g
almond powder.
- As a healrh drink: pulverise a few dares or
raisins with the almond powder inco a very
fine dough. Pour half of the boiling water
onco chis mixcure and briefly blend ac the
highest speed. Then proceed as described
above.
- As a chocolate drink: hear chc a lmond milk
and melr in the chocolare drops (quamiry
ro rasre) (can be flavoured with a lirrle rum,
amareno or orher liqueur).
MAKING COFFEE EXTRACT
Recipe1
500 g water
300 g ground coffee
700 g sucrose
300 g glucose
Bring the water ro a boil. Infuse che coffee for
o ne hour. Pou r the coffee rhrough a straining
do rh. Melt t he sucrose with chc glucose inco a
dark-coloured caramel. In che meanrime, make
su re the coffee is brought back co a boil. Very
carefully quench rhe caramel wirh coffee. srir
thoroughly and conrinue ro cook for another
minute. Allow ro fully cool before pouring inro
bottles for storage.
Recipe 2
1000 g sucrose
600 g water
320 g coffee
Melt the sucrose inco a dark-coloured caramel.
Carefully quench rhe caramel wich the boiling
water. Add che coffee and allow co cool. Strain.
St0re in borrles.
MAK I NG S U 8S1'ITUT£ W HIPP E D C R EAM
W hy make subsciruce whipped cream if you
can pour ready-made fresh cream from che
package? Why make subscicure cream when
fresh cream is so much berrer? Yet a number of
professionals provide a number of arguments in
favour of ir:
~ le is more stable in hor countries
~ lr is d ifficult co find in some hor coumries
~ [1 stays fresh longer
~ lt is cheaper
~ven though, I myself, am a proponent of high-
qua l ity cream, I fi nd ir necessary ro memion a
few recipes and working methods. in order co
make the book as complece as possible.
Wll IPl'EO CREAM FOR PASTRY PURPO!>l .S
Recipe 1
2000 g milk
500 g sucrose
700 g butter
600 g hardened coconut fat
4 egg yolks
Bring che milk, sugar, butter and coconut fat
ro che boil. Continue co hear brieAy. Blend for
one minute in rhe food processor, add t he egg
yolks and continue co blend for five minutes.
Score in che refrigeracor, as you would whipped
cream.
Recipe 2
30001 milk
900 g sucrose
1250 g buner
800 g hardened coconut far
6 egg yolks
5gpeccin
Hear rhe milk, sugar, pectin, bucrer and coconut
far co 9o' c (194 F). Do nor boil! Bear rogether
with rhe egg yolks for approximately 5 minutes
ar che highest speed in che food processor.
Score in the refrigeracor.
WHIPPED CREAM FOR PRALINES
For use as centres in pralines iris nor desirable to
make a light cream, since the chocolarc flavour
is so overpowering that you will hardly rasce it.
Due co irs airiness rhe cream can, in addicion,
only be kept briefly.
Below you will find three non-airy and rwo airy
recipes. These are all basic creams that must be
flavoured co your own personal caste.
Old trnditio11nl Belgian recipe
1000 gbutter
1000 gfondant sugar
moo g whipped cream
Beat the butter in che processor until foamy.
Add rhe fondam sugar licrle by licrle imo a nice
smooth cream. Add the cream and beat the
mixture uncil the water separates from the far.
Remove 200 g water. Slightly heat the edges of
rhe bowl while che mixrure is again beaten into
a homogeneous mass. ln order co slighdy sriffen
rhe cream, add a little chocolate of your choice.
Flavour to taMe.
Recipe 2 Aw 0.859 Heat rhe water and suga rs to II8°C (244°F) .
In the meantime beat rhe egg whices inco foam
1000 g butter in rhe food processor. Trickle the mixture onto
1000 g fondant sugar the foam in a spiral. Leave to cool. Stir the butter
400 g cream {40%) uncil smooth and crickle the coconut foam onto
the buccer. Flavour to casce.
Method: Proceed as for preceding recipe.
Flavour to tasre.

Recipe 3 (=quite sweet} Aw o.886 ' Coconut milk can be made in the same way.
• If you do not have egg white powder, you ca n ach ieve
rhe same resulr in rhis recipe wirh: 140 g fresh egg wh ite,
400 g coconut fac 20 g water, 200 g sucrose.
600 g fondant sugar
800 g cream (40%)

Mechod: Blend all ingrediencs inco a

homogeneous mass. Flavour to rasre.

Airy filling with a minimum oflactose Aw o.868

200 g warer
20 g egg white powder 2
200 g sucrose
250 g wacer
400 g sucrose
i50 g glucose
20 g pectin
800 g buccer
200 g hardened coconuc far

Bear the egg white powder, wacer and sucrose

inco foam in rhe processor. In the meantime
boil the wacer, rhe sugars and rhe peccin to 12o"c
{248°F). Trickle the mixture onto rhe foam in
the processor. In the meancime whip chc buccer
wich che coconut far. Pour the cooled coconuc
foam onto the facs and blend thoroughly withouc
further aeration. Flavour to caste.

Recipes Awo.873

rooo g sucrose
300 g water
rooo g glucose

800 g egg whice

2500 g burcer
 Boiling point • Brix
g sugar for 100 g syrup Baume degree Baume degree specific gravity' gofsugar gofsugar litre water
•c •p at 20°c (68°F) at boiling point at 20°c (68°F). at 20°C (68°F). per litre of per litre of per kg sugar

104.0 219.20 65 30.4 34·7 1319 856 1860 0.538

104.2 219.56 66 30.9 35-2 1325 873 1940 0.515
104.4 219.92 67 31.4 35-7 1331 890 2030 0.492
104.6 220.28 68 31.9 36.2 1337 908 2120 0.470
104.9 220.82 69 32.4 36.7 1344 9i.5 2220 0.449
105.2 221.00 70 32.9 37.2 1350 943 2330 0.428
T05.5 221.90 71 33-4 37.7 1356 961 2450 0.408
105.8 222.44 72 3J.9 38.2 1363 979 2570 0.389
1o6.1 222.80 73 34-4 38.7 1369 997 2700 0.370
1o6.5 123.70 74 H9 39.2 1p5 1016 2840 0.351
106.9 224.42 75 35.3 39.7 1382 1034 3000 0.333
107.4 224.60 76 35-7 40.2 1388 1053 3170 0.316
107.9 226.22 77 36.2 40.6 1395 1072 3350 0.299
108.5 226.40 78 36.6 .p.1 1401 1091 3590 0.282
108.9 228.02 79 J?.O .p.6 1408 1110 3760 0.266

Weigh1of1 li1re >yrup

A word of thanks

This book was a resu lt of many yea rs of research, thoughts and experimenting with ideas for
improvemenc a nd innovation, making many noces and carrying ouc hundreds of rests. The search
for new rre nds and working mechods has been dominanc during chese years. The evenrual resulc
was achieved with rhe help and supporr of several people and companies to which I would therefore
like ro express my gratitude. They gave me enormous moral support.

I owe the mosc importam supporc of a ll co my wife, Nelly, who always scood by me wich her advice,
and who every once in awhile had to encourage me to continue to work together every weekend over
a period of four years.

l a lso owe special chanks co Patrick De Maesencire, che CEO ofBarry-Callebauc, who made it possible
co carry our all che rests in rhe Chocolate Academy.

I also want co chank Dirk Deschepper and Luc Rooms, respectively former and current head of
rhc Callebaur analytical labs, for cheir kind assiscance in confirming che accuracy of dara and
Dr Eng. Frederic Depypere of the VLAZ Laboratory for food technology and processing skills at
the Bio-Engineering Sciences Department of rhe University of Ghent.

I also wish to express my gracicude co Roboc Coupe {www.roboc-coupe.be), PCB Crearion

(www. pcb-creacion.fr) and Chocolace World (www.chocolateworld.be).

Lastly, a special word of chanks co Frank Croes for his magnificent phoros and pleasant
personal icy and Mol D'Art (www.moldarc.be) for their fina ncial support, which comribured
ro t he completion of t his project.

Jean-Pierre Wybauw
© Lannoo Publishing nv, Tide 2007

ISDN 978 90 209 7588 8

NUR 441
0'2007/45/607

Jean-Pierre \Xlybauw
1 EXT:
PHOTOGRAPHY: frank Croes
DESIGN: Maancn Pollet
TRANSLATION: Lyrco

Primed and bound by Prinrcr Trento, Italy

Primed in Italy

All riglus reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced , stored in an aucomaced dacabase and /or made public in
any fo rm or by any means, either eleccronically, mechanically or in any ocher way wichom prior
wriccen permission from chc publisher.

www.lannoo.com
Af1er the in1crna1 ional success of Finl' rhoro/111n - grl'nt n:ptTtm<l' and Chorolntt' nt'rornuons
1his book ubou1 ganaches comple1es thi, unique c.hocol;11c trilog). Jean Pierre \\; \i>au"
authored 1h1s comprd1cnshe profe\>ional guide for all chocola1c connoisscun and c.hocolate
lmcrs "ho" ish to immerse il1c111sd•cs in 1hi• cream} chocolate fill mg. He comes up ""h a
myriad of applications, 1cchniq11es, tips and recipes 10 crt.-ali\cl) proce~s ganac.hc imo pralm~
A manual filled ''ith ~\\eel ti1illa1iom and surpri•ing prcpara1ions, 01p111rcd 111 bnll1an1
pho1ography by I rank Croes.

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