Build “THE BUG” Your personal sportster for $400 PART I HAVE YOU EVER WANTED a personal sports car completely different from anything else on the street? Here’s your chance to build such a car—and you won't have to mortgage the old homestead to pay for it. This car (which we have affectionately nicknamed “The Bug”) was designed spe- cifically for Popular Mechanics readers and has been engineered to make construction as simple as possible. Building the ex- tremely strong tubular “space frame” is no more complicated than putting together a model airplane from a drawing. Compound curves have been almost completely elimi- nated from the body, yet the car’s over-all appearance is low, racy and modern. The prototype car, which was used for all illus- trations in this article, was assembled from Crosley components, but the basic construc- tion methods and techniques described can be used to assemble the sportster with com- ponents from any car. For that reason no dimensions are given, as they will vary Right-hand photo shows method of drawing the fullsize side elevation on a concrete floor with chalk. Lengths of steel tubing then are placed over drawing and welded together as shown in left-hand photowith each car and with each builder. Any second-hand or junked car can be used for components, but it is suggested that it be one with a small six or four-cylinder en- gine to keep down costs and to produce a lighter-weight finished car. Start by stripping the car down to its chassis and wheels, saving instruments, door and trunk locks and hinges and any other items that can be reused. Overhaul the engine, transmission and brake system as necessary. Wheelbase of the sportster should be about 100 in. After determining how much the original wheelbase must be cleanness, METHOD OF BENDING TUBING FOR HEADLIGHT HOODS NEW RADIATOR MOUNTINGS WELDED TO FRAME J TUBING NOTCHED TO PROVIDE CLOSER FIT FOR WELDING. Study of frame drawing on thes to new tubular frame by braces members behind engine supports rear of 01 36".DIA. THINWALL CONDUIT pages will show how front section of original chassis is held nd supports over, under and on front. jinal chassis, second holds the rear motor mount reduced, have the drive shaft that amount at a shop that spi this type of work. Place the stripped chassis on a concrete driveway or garage floor and draw a full- size side elevation of the tubular frame alongside it with chalk, lower right-hand photo, page 201. Keep the lower frame members slightly above the bottom of the differential case, which generally is the lowest part of a car’s running gear. Your own styling ideas, leg length and height as well as the location of the engine and other components will determine the design TA"DIA. STEEL TUBING rst oF two crossPhoto above shows general appearance of partially finished sportster. Body is “wrapped” over frame of the elevation. The basic plan shown on pages 202 and 203 can be modified in an infinite number of ways. Welded steel tub- ing, 144-in. dia., with a wall thickness of .020 in., was used for the prototype in which the Crosley components were installed, and with sufficient cross bracing, this tub- ing will make a frame strong enough to handle most of the smaller engines. If a larger power plant is used it will be neces- sary to use tubing of 2-in. dia. or larger, and it should be seamless steel. Chrome-moly tubing is used for cars that are raced in competition, but this type tubing is quite expensive, and since the sportster de- scribed in this article is not designed for racing, chrome-moly tubing will not be considered as frame material. The top of ihe forward portion of the sportster frame, and the wheel openings, are formed from %4-in. thin-wall conduit. Although the 1%- in. tubing used for the main frame can be used only in straight lines, the thin-wall conduit is shaped readily with a bending tool and presents a chance for individual styling of the hood area of the sportster, as well as any desired shape for the wheel openings. After the full-size drawing has been made, cut pairs of lengths of 114-in. tubing required to make the frame sides and weld together each side directly over the draw- ing, left-hand photo page 201. When both sides have been welded solid and matched to assure they are the same, cut cross pieces to go between them. The cross pieces all are the same length, and should be long enough to keep the inside of the side frame members about 2 in. outside the hub caps of the axle with the wider tread, if there is a difference in treads. Now, place an assembled frame side on each side of the original chassis and block them up to pro- vide correct ground clearance in a vertical position. Also, block up the original chassis to keep it level. Fit and_ tac! as many cross pieces between the frame sides as is possible over and under the original chassis. The front section of the original frame, including spring hangers and motor mounts, is to be retained, so tack-weld tubular braces and supports between it and the new frame wherever convenient, page 202. Next, move the rear axle forward and reconnect the now-shortened drive shaft. With a cutting torch, cut the old frame just behind the rear hangers of the front springs and remove it. Recheck the alignment of the tubular frame sides, then locate the rest of the cross pieces and other bracing members and weld all joints solidly. Cut a section of channel from the old chas: and shape a spring support for the trans- verse spring used behind the rear axle. Transverse mounting of the rear spring permits the frame to be positioned lower in relation to the axle, and the spring is clear of the cockpit, which would not be the case if two springs were used and mounted in the more conventional fore- and-aft position. The spring used for the transverse setup should be one from a heavier car, For the Crosley, a Plymouth spring was used. Cut the main leaf to fit the spring supports, allowing for the length required to heat and bend new eyes. Other leaves are fitted on top of the main leaf and are bent with progressively smaller radii or angles so they are compressed under tension when clamped to the spring sup- port. Install 3 or 4 leaves at this point in construction to support the car. When the sportster is completely finished it is neces- and-error to determine leaves are required to provide correct springing and handling. Location of the tubular shock absorbers— (Continued to page 276)Build “THE BUG” (Continued from page 204) not shown—also must be figured on a trial- and-error basis. In most cases, the front shock absorbers can be used as is. Rear-axle spring hangers are lengths of %4 or 1-in. steel round bent to an L-shape and welded to the top of the rear-axle hous- ing. Short lengths of pipe are welded to the ends of the hangers to accommodate the spring-shackle bolts and bushings. Regular shackles are used, but must be cut to fit a particular setup, detail page 203. Gas welding was used in assembly of the frame, but a small are welder proved in- valuable for heavier work, photo page 203, and was used extensively for assembling the body. The concentrated heat of the arc has less tendency to buckle sheet steel. Unless it is necessary, do not reposition the steering-gear box, as this will affect steering geometry. Instead, lengthen or shorten the steering column. Because the floor of the car is so low, it is mecessary to suspend the brake and clutch pedals from beneath the cowl. The original pedals and cross-shaft probably can be used, but the rods between the pedal arms and pedal pads should be shortened or eliminated to provide more legroom, detail page 203. Two master cylinders of the type that bolt to the fire wall are mounted ahead of the pedals and connected by threaded rods and clevises. The brake cylinder is used in the normal manner, but the clutch cylinder is used to actuate the original master cylinder which is modified to be a “slave” cylinder for operating the clutch throwout arm. The reservoir is cut off the cylinder and both vent holes are welded shut. Hone out the cylinder and rebuild it with a new kit, but leave out the compensation valve. Bolt the cylinder to the frame so it lines up with the clutch throwout arm and couple the cylinder and arm with a threaded rod and clevis to provide adjustment for clutch wear. Steel tubing and brake hose are used to connect slave and master cylinders. Location of the radiator is indicated on page 202, but this unit can be mounted in any position as long as the filler pipe is above the engine cylinder head to assure water to the top of the head. The gasoline tank is shown behind the rear axle, which keeps it low and clear of the cockpit. De- pending on personal choice, the filler tube for the tank can be extended through the side or rear of the body of the sportster. For safety the end of the filler tube must be outside the body. Do not end the tube inside the trunk where gasoline fumes could collect and present a hazard. (Continued next month)Build “THE BUG’ PART Il—Conclusion FTER ALL WORK described in Part I of this article has been completed, in- cluding frame, running gear, suspension, brake and fuel lines and installation of the fire wall and a heater, if one is to be used, construction of the sheet-steel body can be started. On the prototype, 20-ga. sheet steel was used and tools for bending the metal consisted of two steel angles from a bed-spring frame, a number of C-clamps, a hammer and a wooden mallet. Although each builder will have his own ideas and methods, Figs. 1 through 6 detail a method that was worked out on a trial-and-error basis as being the simplest and strongest one of assembling the body. The width of each body panel should be such that, whenever possible, the '%-in. flanges of adjacent panels are not only screwed together but also to a vertical frame member, Figs. 6 and 7. Where a vertical member is not located conven- jently, the two flanges screwed together provide a stiffening rib in the body cover- ing. Patterns can be employed when mak- ing the panels, but it is almost as simple to use the sheet steel itself as a pattern. After bending a ¥%4-in. flange on each edge of a panel, cut away the flanges wherever nec- essary to clear the frame tubes. Then wrap the lower two inches of the panel around the lower horizontal frame member and clamp it. Drill through the sheet metal and tubing and drive in sheet-metal screws about every 3 in. Lift the panel upward and press it against the vertical members of the frame and the horizontal top mem- bers. Start at the bottom of the panel and drive sheet-metal screws about every 3 in., pressing the metal inward and upward to force out any distortion. At the top, repeat the process used for the bottom’ of the panel, wrapping the metal around the frame tube and fastening it with sheet- metal screws. When the top frame member is at an angle to the bottom member, repeat the preceding steps, except that just before fastening the top, mark it and cut it off parallel to the frame tube, allowing 114 to 2 in. for wrapping. After all body panels have been screwed to the frame and to- gether, they can be tack-welded together and to the frame. Screws are removed end the holes plug-welded. The final result is a type of unit body-and-frame construction. When making the horizontal panels for the cowl, headlight shrouds and top of the grill, bend flanges on them to support the hood. The hood should be flanged to form a channel cross section along its edges. The hood flange should be about % in, less in depth than the body flange to permit inser- tion of rubber strips that prevent the hood from rattling. Trunk Lid Trunk lids will vary in design, according to each builder's ideas. For the prototype, the rear portion of the top of the original car body was used. Compound curves at the rear corners were cut out and replaced with flat pieces of sheet metal cut and bent to shape and welded in place. A flange was bent along the front and rear and along both edges, using the steel bed angles, It is much simpler to use new metal, fitted over a frame of light steel angles and flats as indicated in Fig. 4. A piano-type hinge, butt hinges or offset hinges from the trunk lid of the original car can be installed. Hinging is at the rear in Figs. 4, 13 and 14, so the folding hard top can be swung backand accommodated in the trunk, Fig. 2. If a different type top is used, the trunk ean be hinged at the front edge in a more con- ventional manner. Top Design Tn many cases, construction of the inside of the trunk will be such that there will be no room for a folding top of the design shown in Fig. 2. Ingenuity and imagination take over at this point. A solid top with gull-wing doors, such as is used on some European sports cars can be formed. Or the doors can be designed so that a portion of the roof also swings out when the verti- cally hinged doors are opened, somewhat like the “dream cars” shown at auto shows. Another method is to use two tops, one a folding canvas top for mild weather, the other a steel top that clamps in place. Skillful fitting is required for the con- struction and installation of the folding, one-piece hardtop detailed in Fig. 2. Sheet steel is used in its construction and heavy transparent plastic is used for two roof panels and the rear window. Three hinges are fitted at the rear of the top as indicated with a space cut out between the hinges so the top clears the two angles that form the front flange of the trunk. As shown in Fig. 16, when the top folds down into the trunk, the trunk lid fits down over two. steel dowels welded to the angle flange in the same manner as when the top is up. If maximum frame strength is desired, doors can be omitted entirely. A “cockpit” step is fitted into the sides of the body to permit stepping up and onto the drive-shaft cover, then sliding down under the wheel. Assembly of the windshield is detailed in Fig. 1. Tubing is used for the three main vertical members and light channel is ALTERNATE FRONT-END ASSEMBLY (INTEGRATED BODY AND BUMPER) “ Ya welded or screwed to it and to the cowl. Rubber channel then is fitted in the metal channel and the glass is inserted from the top of the frame. Screwing the top channel in place secures the glass. Notched steel dowels welded to the tops of the windshield tubes accommodate a drilled strip of wood that is fitted to the front edge of the top as shown in Fig. 15, when a folding hardtop is used, or some types of soft tops. Radiator and Grille Because of the position of the radiator, the filler tube quite likely will project above the curved portion of the front of the car. Fig. 3 shows one method of dis- guising the filler tube with an attractive air scoop. The main part of the scoop folds down over the filler tube first, then the front, smaller part folds down and wedges CUSHIONS:TWO METHODS OF MOUNTING SPARE WHEEL me TuRN JS INDICATOR Bray (ALL RED) la BACK-UP LIGHT (WHITE) G thsi, Photos show applica tion of glass and spray painting 14| METHOD OF FASTENING TOP TO WINDSHIELD against the filler tube to keep the air scoop locked in position. Many variations of this system can be devised. Steel tubing used for the frame also can be used to make bumpers for the sportster, Fig. 9, or the bumpers from the original car can be modified for use. An alternate design of the front end of the car, Fig. 8, shows a method of incorporating body and frame to form an integrated bumper-and- body. The grille for the car can be fabri- cated from %4 or ¥%-in. electrical conduit and wire mesh, Figs. 4 and 8, or in some cases, a stock grille can be modified and installed to simplify the job. Tailfin and Spare Wheel Rear-end treatment of the sportster, Fig. 14, depends solely on the builder of the car. Truck-clearance lights can be used as indicated, or any one of a number of stock tail-light assemblies can be used. It is best to choose the taillight before shaping the fins, since they then can be bent, wrapped or angled to fit any type or size of light or combination of lights. In some instances moving the spare wheel forward or back will aid in making the car handle better by changing the front-to-rear weight distribution, so it should be installed last. The wheel can be mounted inside the trunk, on the trunk lid or at the rear of the body, Fig. 13. Loca- tion of the gasoline tank also will have a definite effect on weight distribution, since when full it weighs a considerable amount. Seat Construction Bucket seats for the sportster can be bus or truck seats picked up at an auto grave- yard, or they can be fabricated from sheet steel as shown in Fig. 10. Cushions for the seats will require the services of an up- holstery shop. One method of attaching the seats to the floor, so they can be ad- justed fore and aft, is shown in Fig. 10. ‘The rear legs are bolts on which are fitted lock washers and nuts. Seat belts anchored to a frame cross member will aid in keep- ing both driver and seat in position in case of a sudden stop or collision. Glass-fiber cloth and resin, and glass- fiber putty are the products that make your body job look professional. All joints, seams and mistakes are covered by glass fiber, which is sanded down, primed and painted as in Figs. 11 and 12. Glass-fiber cloth and resin also can be used to form panels with compound curves that can be inserted between the steel panels of the body. Headlight shrouds, taillight housings and air scoops can be shaped from glass material and cemented to the steel body by using epoxy resin that forms a bond al- most as strong as a weld. KKKThese quality repro plans were digitally restored and compiled by SHOP-TECH Copyright 2004, All Rights Reserved Reproduction or distribution for fee of this CD-Rom or unique portions thereof is strictly prohibited without a license. Reproduction or distribution for personal use is permitted provided that this permission notice is included at least once in all copies and the appropriate copyright notices are retained. All other rights reserved SHOP-TECH techplans@yahoo.com