$50.00 ‘The French Laundry Cook! ‘rotegrophs by Deborch Jones ‘Thomos Kelle, chel/propritor ofthe French Laundry in the Napa Vlley—"the most exciting place to eat in the United States,” wrote Ruth Reich in The New YbrkTimes—is o wizard, © purist, a man obsessed with getting i ight. And thi, his st cookbook, i rer bit 0 stishing 080 French Loundey meal ise: © series of small, impeccable, highly refined, Intensely focused courses ‘Mott dosing is how simple Kele's methods ore: squeegeeing the molstue from the skin an fish soit souls beouttlle pooching ep9s in ¢ deep pot of ote for perfect shope; the intl steeping inthe Shell thot makes cooking rw lobster ut of the shell 2 cinch; using vinegar a5 @ favor enhoncer the repeated wathing of bones for stack fr the ceones, From innovative soup techniques, tothe proper way te cook green vegetables, to secrets of great fh cookery, tothe creation of breathtaking desserts from beurre monté to foie grot au torchon, 1 @ wid doughnuts, The French Laundry Cookbook captures, through recipes, essays, profiles, and exacdinary photogrophy, one of America’s great restouronts, its ‘7e0t chet, and the food thot mokes both unique. (One hundred ond fity superlative recipes ore evoct recipes from the French Loundry ktchen— no shortcuts have been token, no critical steps ignore, ol hove been thoroughiy tested in home kitchens. Ityou can't get tothe French Laundry, you can now re-create of home the very experience the Wine Spectator described as "as close to dining perfection ost getsCopyright ©1999 ky Thomas Keller Photograph copyright © 1999 by Deborah Joes Ai righ of thi ook my be reproduced Tnelidng photoopyigwithout writen pes ered. liane clestronlly, oF by any mesne iionof the publisher Publis 1999 y Arian 3m of Workman Publishing. ne 708 Broadway Nw York, NY. 10003 sewn com {bea of Cangren Catsloging-inPubliation Dats Keller Thoma ‘The French Laundry Cookhook/hy Thoms Keller wih uae eller and Mie pcm say 1-57965-126-7 1. Cookery. Frenel 2. French Laundry (Restaura) Heller, TET19.K35 1999 641.5'09704"19-aea 99.3173 cp himan potogeaphaby Dehorsh Jones ie. Ul Rablnan, Miche, 1963-11, Tite. Prine in Singapore 9 ie Devig by LEVELTHE FRENCH LAUNDRY COOKBOOK THOMAS KELLER with Susie Heller and Michael Ruhlman Photographs by Deborah Jones New Yor‘The lmpananceat Saltond Fore ond Viner 180 he Poces 186 The Febugh Lember 194 Mewes 202 “The npr of Robie 25 Thelnpetece f Otel 209 ‘Socks ond Suces eek” Soees = TheConpons Gree Come 236 Theimporenee of Fence 247 “oe taney Cheesemoker 248 Begining onning 305 ‘The utinete ineyos 311 Lot Recper 316 odex 318Acknowledgments tw apn Regie are Era ie re tatear ee eae ot ire ote rcp Net dn my Lng oe ut mews en ioe ate ee er eee elas seerat ig ern n area Taam oe ee eee ogee eee ae peter feant ise ie eoer Sige ae al eat eee cg eer oer aie fire Tones tee GL gen eager pesceciaa’ afecie eta esa tiara eee ea eel eer ayers es Tiles Hiarrsnp al eet Pee eee isis ane tis ae sec eee oe ey aig yar eer ee aa Peer arsine eee usa ea oe Rana eee es See pecans pen Fee ence ete fae Teal ie saa ae al ean reat ata canes etree eee ace ete ee ee ee reer al a eee eri eal el eer ica pais aac era exec creme eeee ee nica sae eee Teeter Se oa ares Crain pean suce eee Tin ietse ket eer eee eee eee ea ceo vee Us resin ae ae tie pry et Supa Dur So ie Deh Srey ‘Short. and Grant Achat who arrived withthe opening of he new kitchen, have been important fares in developing the FenehLaundy int what ‘stoday. Tey. slong with Stephen. logged many hours quantifying nd Aemonntrating reipes forthe book Pat MeCarty hat been more than the French Landy’ secountant-Lace her more the third legate front- ‘of-the-hovse/hitchen/finaneil tripod that kee arenturant standing. sm gratefl ther. “There are too many stato thank individually Al of them make or have made the French Laundry the pac that ttf nd protent ‘and I thank very one. For thie book, Susie Heller eto be thanked above all. Fe know that, stead Ihave been ling abut for twelve year. (Itbegan 243 pop-up book) And it was she who not only wrote and tested all he reeipes with herableatitnt, Angle Spenser. but whomarshaled heten mths made this hooks photographer Deborah Jones. with her atitant, Jr Jones: writer Michal Ruhlman, and graphic designer CMT Morgan. with hia design pariner Dvid Hughes, Sie Deborah, Michael. and Cif beeame 2 part of he rexturant in order to tranaform is eetence into book, ‘They're anextrardinar team: take anyone of them way ad this would have been aiferent book entirely. ‘Suan Leacherbrought the bookbeforetherghtpeople snd found the bent pomiblepublahersndeditorforthisprojet. Ann Braman. 'maleo Sndebted tothe vam in New York-Deborah Weiss Celine, Juith Suton. Dania Davey. Naney Murray. and Tricia Bocekowski “The Fen chet Fernand Point ded sheyear Iwas born, many way hin eookook Ma Garonomie~a oak that conveyed his senteof humor 1d the tliy of if focused on dining-informed me erly on about how a chef might ve hip Td ike to thank yo under ire family for heir supportand also for their nding, beeaut the life of ehef inevitably leads to arene of neglctin onesie, Lamgratful to them Finally, 1 ike to thank my colleague. I from you that deaw inspiration, and ie your eumblative talent that keeps me striving Without the daly evidence of your skill and drive and passion, Iwould be alenserehetPleasure and perfection vhenssssinovedge sou mitt theriane sie thing eperectfod, ony the deaot it then the real purpose of striving toward perfection beeomes lear to make people happy. Ta’ what ooking ill abot. But to give pleasure,youhavetotake pleasure yourself Fr me's thesaisfcton of ooking cverydaytourntings caret o etn amon, or portioning foi grs-the mechanical obs do Aly yeaafter year This isthe great challenge tomaintain pssionforthe everyday routine and theendlessly epeted acto drive deep ratification frm the mundane Say, for instance, you intend to make a barigoule. a sew of aichoke hearts brased with carttsand onions, reshherb. ol, and wine. You may lokat you artichokes Bd think"Leokat all hose artichokes I've gto ext andelesn” Bat turning hem pulig off the leaves trimming ‘heir stems, scooping out the chokes, pullingyour kif round its edge—that is cooking. Itis one of my fvoite thing to do Another source of pleasure in cooking ie reapet fr the fod. To udereook 2 lbster and serve ito estomer, snd have hin send tac. no only waste f the lobster and all hose raved ints fe, i's wast ofthe potenti of pleasing that customer Respect fr food isa reaped fori, for who we ae and what we do, ‘Thefoie ra preparations inthis hook are among my levorites because ole gras engender so any diferent feligs. I's lrrious. is rte and expensive I's vewly and textural rich very sensu thing. But the slow-cookng shart ribs and oxtail and artichoke barigule bring me ome of the deepest pleasure ooking know. Te process of basing andthe aming aroma tf Moured met in hot ol incomsparabeakingthe basing pan out othe oven tose the rich coroftheliquid andthe slow hickbubbe ofthe deepening suc, theheatifulclesr hyerof fat ‘on top. Whenyou've pulled your pot frm the oven toregardyourbrase.to realise it to smell 4s you've connected youre to generations and generation of people who hive done the same thing for hundred ofyearsineratythesamcway. My mentor. oland Henin old mesomething long age that changed the vay I though aboutcooking “if{your areslygnadcook"hesaid "you ‘angobackin tie. Cooking is not abou convenience snd isnot about shores, The recipe in his book ae shoutwantngto ake the timetedosemethingthat think priceless Ourhunger forthe twenty ‘inate gourmet meal. for one-pot esse and prewashed pecs ingredients has severed our tlie to the satisictions of cooking, Tak your time. Take a long time. Move slowly and deliberately nd with gest tention. ‘The ides of cooking andthe idea of writing a cookbook are forme, in confit, There isan fahren ontradiction between acookbook, which ss olestion ef documents. and a chet. who isan evelvingsoul not ety transeribedinreipe form, A resipe hat no soi, Yous 38 the cook,must bring soul to the rep These recipes record of my evolution. have been painstakingly ocuented but hey shoul be eed stools rather thanas eat beprints. Tean telly the echaniet~how wo mke custard, lrinafane, But yniwon'thaves perfect one iyou merely follow my instructions, you don't fel it i's nata perfect eustrd, no mater how welyou've executed the mechanics On the her hand i's not iterallya perfec cutard Dou you have maintained a great feeling fort, then you hae erated 2 reeipe perfectly because ‘here wae that pasion Behind what you di “These rege. then. although ext dacamens of the way fod is prepared atthe French Lundy. ae only guidelines. You'e not going tobe able to upline te ih ha T de, You may createsomething tat incompostion resembles what | made, but more importants hi _greatethope-you'e going tecrenesomethingtht oahone deep respecadlelings and patton for, And youknow what? t's goingto be more satisfying hn anything ould ever make fo you. Inthespringo of 992, | came to Yountillein the Napa ley onthe advice of rend oook st ‘he French Lundy. The grounds were endosed by honeysuckle and climbing roses covered an archedtrellisleadingintothecouryard.Iteeemedaeifé heen heading here my whole working Me “The French Lawnds is sceen-hundsed-aqunre-fotstructre, built i 1900 with the valle’ ver rock and timber. I's been many things to many people throughout its histon-a ‘residence, a French steam laundry, 2 eloon and brothel, and then a residence again befor it became arestarant test eI think. The natural tone madesty comforts people who ome tere and lps fcat on our work, "have aos maintained shat the Napa Willey isa perfect pee fora restaurants the ony plsceinthesountry where eoplecome specifiy odrnkeeelen wines andestfine fod, Bat ‘her's more to tsappeal: Thi miles log and po ve miles wide. ts American bounty test. te firstresidens the Wappo indians, neverlesened to farm, becuse fond jst grewllyeat Jong. Theirwordnappesometimestransbaid at plenty.” ‘utthe Napa leyharnotaluaysbeen an emblemofrostcluary. ad the townofYounwle ceil hts, “An outa tw.” one alley resident ele i. “Proton, gambling Big big par tows, Things going on in une ked buildings > "ANorth Carla fr trpper founded Yountville in the 183, the fire oficial town in the salle. snd for motte inary it was anything bat fined. The lk ts poplin lived inthe Veterans Home. which sheltered men returning from the Civil War and he Spanish-American ‘War and eootinued thi role right on through the Vietnam War duringwhichtime Dn Schait, 2 Fresno banker, andi wife Sally. moved townA Soa ni By then, 196, Younis flamorous ona day ha disintegrated into noting more than _arow of bars serving the veterans trailer and fmshackle homes, and rooming houses “It was a cesspool” sid Don, who would become ts mayor, orchestrate its regeneration. and. with Sly, ‘pen the French Laundey i 1978, ‘The late 19605 was an exiting time in the region, then 3 raged territory of undeveloped {armland and abandoned prune and walnut omhars,Youatwilest ik quiet Mason-Divon line between Helenalifigits eyebrows fom the northatthetowniesef Naps inthe south. And then new wave ofyoung winemakerearrivedand tapped the power The Grape. The grape to Napa is like the microchip to Silicon Valle, lik io Teast would within thirty years transform the United States wine babies ntas world-famous industry and ura the valley ise into the me ‘sophisticated agricultural community on eat I give the French Landey nevelifeand it gave me s new life. [don't ‘entities. Whatever the vale of my lil, my nowedge, my sensibilities they never would have come togetherin this ook had it not hee forthe French Laundry. sce us asbeing separate Autumn 1990 was. sad time in my ie Ias going tbe leaving New Yorkafter ten eats! would bbe staringlife over in LosAngeles. and my new employer there wanted met prepare a dish fora food and wine benefit hee that would relly wow people ‘Shortly before moved some friends took reo our favorite restaurantin Chinatown, and, a8 slays. re went oBaskin-Robbinefor ice cresm sftenard'd been nervous about thie food and vine event I guess it had been inthe buck of my mind fora whl. ordered an ice-cream cone. ‘The guy pat itin alitleholder~you tske it fom halder-snd end, “Heres your cone.” ‘Tye moment e sii thought "There itis! Were going o take our standard tues, vingto make coneswiththem andwe'regoingtfillthemnwithtunatarure.” ‘And tht’ what we did. Now use salmon. but you ean realy use anything. Eggplant evar and roatted red peppers of tomato confit make 3 wonderful vegetarian version, You can doit with mest~jlienne of prosiutowithsomemelon. The cone just chil Becatteitwataeanapé that people realy bean to azacatewe with, | decided that everyone ‘who eats atthe restaurantshouldheginthemeslwiththis cornet. Peoplalwayssmilewhen they get Iemakes them happy, But [woulda havecome up withit iT hadnt been sad. 1 had been handedan ieo-eresm coneshundredtimesbeloreand ithadever resulted in thecornet, Thad to bessd wseeit.comners: ‘4 ounes sean Hel ally lee, sin ond conv piboneremeved ond ey ty minced 24 tess. ea vin ve oF 4 eospaon lon ole Sauces pape 315) Warecgcor iy minced ies eteoooane ty iced ht Vetecspoon hshersot orto tote ‘ia cup plus 3 oblespoons ot -upes fut | elespoon pa 1 eospcon93r 1 eospoon kosher sot {Btoslessean (4 aces usted be, soled butt colo he toes 1 talessoon ty minced a onans peapermeticne rey ground te pepper teste 24. fs (bin nc ong) Sal pcs oles ground whe pepe: Piste tt ten sere we ge ane fun to lok ati dstintive, delicious, and doea't require a Plat or sverware, You eaneatit standing up witha latsof Champagne ‘orwine none hand. Atthe French Lundy. Lusea specially made Lacie holder to erve these cones, ut you might ila bow! with rok st, 3 ‘or peppercorns. and sand the cones up in histo serve them, FoR THE CoRNETS. Ina medium bowl. mixtogeer the Nour sug and ssl, In a separate Dowd, whisk the aotened butter unt t ‘completely smoot and mayonnais-Like in teture, Using au eats ‘or spoon est the egg whites ito the dry ingredients unt completely Incorporated and smooth, Whisk in the softened buter by thirds scrapingthe sides ofthe bow ae necessary and whisking unt the batter creamy and without any lamps, Teaafer the batier to amaller ‘container ait willbe easier to work th Preheat the oven to 00°F. Make d-inch hollow circular stenil Pace aSilpt (see Souees. ‘ge 315) on the counter (it iseaiertoworko he Slat befor ite put fom the sheet par). Place the stencil in one corner of te shet and holding the stencil fat agnns the Silt. scoop some of he hatter ono the Baek ofanofset spatula andspreaditinan evn yeroverie stencil ‘Then run the spatula over the entire steno remove any excesses. Aller akingihe istbatchofemes, you willbe abl tjudgethe eorreet ‘thikness:you may needa litle more orlesbatter toadjustthe thickness ofthe cornets. There should not be any holes inthe batter Lf the steed and epent the process to make a many rounds 6 you have molds oF to 4 he Sips, leaving about 1Minches between the cornet. Sprinkle ‘ech cornet witha pinch of blackaesame seeds Place the Silpatona benny bakingsheetandbakefor 4106 minutes, or unl the bater ie ae and you see rippling from the hest, The ‘omneta may have browned in some areas, bt they will not be evenly rome atti point ‘pen the aren doorand place te baking sheet onthe door. Thie will Ip keep the comets warm a yu rll hem and preven them from becomingtoostfforollRipacorntoveron thesheetpan. sesame seed side down. and plaea inch cone mold(site5. se Sources age 315)atthe bottom he round. fyousre right handed. youvillwant the pointed end on you elt and the open endo your right. The tp ofthe ‘mold shouktouch he lowe left edge at about o'clock ona lock face) ofthe cornet. Fldihe bottom ofthe cornet vp and around the mold and ‘rely ollupwardandtoward the lfto wrap the cornet tightly round ‘he mold:st should resin onthe shee pan ae you ral Leave he cornet sappedaroundthe moldand continue trl th eonet around molds you proceed, range the rolled cornets seam side down on the sheet ‘nao they leanagainst each other. t prevent them from rolling. ‘Whenallhecormetsare led. return them othe oven shelf lose the door. an isk fran ional 3104 minutes to set the seams nd celorthecorneteagolden rows, Ite color uneven sand the corte ‘on end for minute or o more, until the colar is even, Remove the ‘corte from he ove ad lon t0 oo st light. 30 seconds oro(ently remove the corsets rm the mol and cool fr several ‘mina on pape tomes esovethe Spt fromthe baking eect. wipe the ees bute from it, and allow it col down before epeadingthe reatbateh. Store the earns forupto? day(Tor maximum Naor) na sinigh container, rom THE faLuon taRraRe. With a tharp knife finely mince the ‘slmon file (donot te food proestor. ast would damage he texte ofthe i) an ple tin aml bowl Sin the remainingingredients ad at for eettoning Cover the how and refrigerate the tartare fort eset 30 minutes of TOR THE EWEET RED ONION CREME FRAICHE. Plane theredonions ima emall roiner and rinse them under old a to 12ers forssvera seconds. Day them on paper towels In sll mata Dow. whisk the exéme Iesiche fr about 20 seconds to 1 mite o until thle sft peaks when yout the whisk. old inthe hopped onions and season tate wih hesaltand white pepper. Trane the anoneresm toa conser over, and refrigerse unl ready oer for up to hour 10 Courter Fill just the op inch ofeach cornet with onion ‘ream, leaving the bottom of he cone emp. This ely done sing 2 pssry bag fied wth 2 Ninh pin tipo with the up of small ‘fe. Spoon about 1% tesepooneaf the tare over the onion erm ‘nd mold ints dome resembling seopof te eream Lay chive ip sgainstone side ofthe tartare to garish,About the chef -rerresntandy snotne:Thonas Klersite etimeespee “i wenyearld by Michoe! Rubloon I's biggethan me, Alt of people make it what is, his book to be about the French Laundry, not bout me.” ‘One of Thomas's main claims is that the French Laundry cold ete what i without hi ‘purveyors. nd he warted to neue afew ofthe serie. | traveled From the mountains above Naps tothe farmlndsofPenneylvaia othe cliff Maine otalkto them Almost ll of them. ound ether led double ves or had fallen into purveying by accident. Ingrid Bngis. seafood arveyor,wara writer of some notoriety inthe 1970s, Keith Marin wae soskbroker before he ‘watalambersandJohn Mood, hearts of palm growe.remainsa commercial airline pil. {found thientsordinary athe pattern emerged hutscon. it scemed amon inevitable, twat on thi kindof personvhomighthringtothe werk pasion equate that of thechef. Andi wat oly thie lind ofchef who would at hi unutl kindof porveyor. ‘Ando, Thoras old me, "Get the story want he story tobe jst a important athe Food, ‘otherwise. Fm not interested in deinga cookbook.” ‘Thomashimsehasan unusual sry How id ayoung man wth nospecial food memories or ‘evenany real appreciation forfoodbefore the age of wenty become, two decade later. one ofthe county bet chefs? Thee are clues inthe crite! mements when Thomas learned important lessons that defined hw hewould workar ache Some of thee revelations re inthis book‘For me. Thomas's reat it ish example of how tobe observant ofthe word and how food leaves and how’ we mi 39 cooks to that fond Largely elf taught, hei good each, conveying not ast information, but alse how he gt tha information. 28 well ie broader meaning and possible wes, Thos. weve taken time to detribe food technique. some bate (soups snd braieng). some refined (working with fie ra) ‘Te recipes rn the gmt fom simple to fit awl, Want rea challenge? Ty the dish called "Head te Toe" Want simple? Make the Gazputho the Lemon Tart. or the Cream of Waloat Soup. Most of the reipes are time consuming: they require thought and, ost smportan ‘avolvement onthe part ofthe cook And herein isthe second gif from Thoms Keller. In thi age of both intense interent in cooking and harried, cvety bun ives in which there i never ‘enouh time. he urges vt move slowly nd deliberately. uly engage oarteles in cooking, 10 regain the connection to foed that we've lost i our craving for quick fies, shortest. and processed ingredients, This not fat food. nor i it four-star cooking simplified for home Iktehens Ite fourste cooking. period, Cooking that teches, that reminds us 0 return to elated French eisine bh for guidance i ehique and for inpiation ineretinginnovative ‘contemporary food. nthe stories. inthe techniques. inthe reipes ies hil forcooksand chefs of every segeto reaper the food we ave and otake more tie and geste in ita cookingWhen in Doubt, Strain: notes on how to use this Book Thesccpesin tec ett eS maenerinece ce a been tested by me. my assistant, Angie Speier nd home cooks in various home kitchens the degree of diculy of» dish exceed you desiee to make, please remember that i's all right to-do only pst ofa recipe. Most people, I'm guessing will nt try the pig's head reparation, but would bea shamefor syone vo mina the gribiche sac that goes with i. Is 0 simple. and t's great with roast pork. The bliniare simple-you need. tami. bu hey be the best bliniyou'veevertased Sobefleble. fyoudon’t want make the uilecone forthe amon trae, servethe tartare ‘0m teat points. Ifyou don't have the time fr the stoek-based sauces, ten tothe gates and the ‘oulie-they're extraordinarily versatile Yields re given for many subcomponents. the ones you ‘may want to make on thei on, “The recipes are built largely on basic techniques, 6038 Jou master them-making beurre ont, for intanee, or understanding the glatngand deglasingprocess~therecipes will become “Theportion sizeare small based on the multieaurte mess at eat ve) the Pench Laundry serve, Most ofthe recipes canbe doubled for large portions. Pethapa the mou important piece of advice isto read the reeipe through before you begin. Some require time and special equipment that you should be sure to have before you commit tothe dish Sources for fodand equipment arelistedon page 315. Finding certain products may depend ‘onwhereyouliv, We use gelatin sheetsratherthan powdered gelatin fo example, beeause they vworkbetterinthesmall quantities ealled for here. Many finergrocerseatry thesheets: if they 2r6 notavaiable however. youcan order them. Mosthard-to-finditemslike gelatin. eur desel.and bottargawil seta longtime, ‘hope tis book gives you a sense of what is posible inthe home kitchen, hope you gt the on your fce that I've gotten making these recipes. that God-thie--grestemile when 5 real feeling of secomplishinens ‘yu cant lieve hove godstrain ano sim, Whemin doubt, strain Notasinge liquid or purée moves from one plscetoanotherat heressurant except ‘rough some kid af trainer. And you mest lwayrbe skamming-skim. kim, skim. The reipe were developedand ested ting? home pt stove youre wingan elect stove, remember that the col takeslongerto go fom igh tomedium- owt pa fame, Oven temperataressaryconiderbly. co buy alae ‘hermometerorhaveyour even cabested oop couiraenr Geta fewheany= bottomed pots and pans~you don't need Alozcns Buy a god baking sheets that don't Inkl nthe heat. And look fora great butcher and. good fahmonger with whom you son develop relationship Thus youn instincts, Use commonsense when allowing recipe itelisferapanon high heat, but he foodie burning. i's probably too het apiece ofmestlooksanife's ‘overonkng it probaly to take tout vent haan heennaslongasthereeipesays some speeirics.Alleggearelarge_Allour is all-purpose Nout. Slt unless specie. is other ll pepper feunalted llherbeare fresh. For i eanola ‘ean inexpensive all-purpose cooking ol ‘egetale ol fine, grapesced oli preferable Spare granlated unless otherwise speed. Staple vegetables (stots, onions) and garlic freshly ground, Allbuter ae alnays peeled unless otherwise specified Allrecipes include volume measurements. but leaemto use atcale: weighing ingredients ithe most arcuate way o messure and ile theThe law of diminishing returns Moat chef yt sti costomers hunger a3 shor time with one cor wo dahes. They begin with something great. The initia bite i fabulous, The second bite egret But by the third bte-with many more 1 come-the Maors begin to deaden, and the diner loses Interest, Ws ikegettingintoa ht bath or jumping into cold pot At fiat, he temperature ia shocking. but ater a few minutes, you get 0 ren notice. Yourmouthresesthe same way sed to that youdon' to favorsandsenetions otf Many chefs ry to counter the deadening eft by pt AitferentMavors onthe plate o hee interest alive. But then the diner can‘focus onanytingbecauseits conusing. ‘What | wants that intl shoe, that jolt, hat surprise tobe the ‘only thing you experience, So ewe five ten small courses each rmeantoately your appetite se pique your curio. want yout say. “Ged. wih Lad just one more bite of tha.” And then the nest pate ‘comes nd the same thinghappens. but its» different experience. hole new Mavorand fel“The waytoheepthe experience fra ia ot by ding mar ors, but ther by focusing more on pei Naor. eiher by making therm Imre intense han the fonds from wich they come. oy vying the reparation echnique, “When desi mateliversndonions,loronance, migra whole foe gra and serve ith four dllerent onion preparations conf, roated, gate red snd glazed white Or I might serve aes lier 7 two of thet preparations. The point ia to alate and shane favor, not confuse thers One lamb cause might include five diferent amb prepara nother might be simply lamb chop with lamb eveetrends ‘When Lombine Naor Ido sotntradtional ways. Sometimesthat bis served eth eggplant and mints combination verging on lich, But rosette eggplant th bute unt it avira fondue an infuse the mint sto a dep emerald of My favorite dies for inspiration ate traditional one like quiche lorraine, daube of beet shor ibs ale Veronique, What is sole ‘Veronique? Sol with gape. Atthe resturant Iara sole dish wih litle more structure ot, T make 3 sffing of sltana raisins (ried rape) and brioche croton, fold the sole around tto make a kindof | package, and serve i with a lassie loag, It ll has dhe sntegiy of tole Veroniee, bu wih modern interpretation. “Toachive the elects want, [ere courses that re sal restive ‘0 portions yo'l finda most restaurants But smal not he point. ‘The point is For every course, there ta perfect quay. Some courses mune all beesse of whatthey are Aqualisa, One tite is enous two egg wuld be redundant. The scallops we ge are shout hee ounces~nesly a bigasa filet mignon. Ina mes offve © 1s don't need more thin one slop ‘With foie gras. hough seve just ighlytoo much fit. beeuse ‘want people o know what foie gro ie ll shou. 1 go overboard with ‘rules and caviar 100. so that people who have perhaps only eaten tras in stingy gus cantante them and asp, “Oh, now 1 vederstand”White Truttle Oil—Intused Custards with Black age na pot 2 woioons Clad Bute (page 125), meted revs About 20 che tos inches or) pte intents ae "heap Yycupheay ceo etolesooons wie le Freshy yond wt pepe luetle Ragou sc Wes Sock (one 222) ‘Wo aeonon nly ned ack rule (tom ovo trate, lee oF pests) Fe dopo whe wine inagor Ya twogcn wie ae shes ed tes ground whe penser top them st teuttle magentaFoR THE enV eitPs, Have al the ingredients ready when you begin and work quickly to prevent the potato slices from oxidiing (Gucning brows), One potato wll make about 20 chips. You wll eed only 8 forthis recipe the extras make agredt snack, Preheat the ovento205"F. Pel the potato and use a paring krfe to rim it into 2 Band-Aid ‘shape Graight sides rounded ends) approximately 4 inches long and Linch wide Brush two Sips (se Sources. page 35) wth the arified baer ‘and sprinkle ac lightly with kosher salt. Pace one Slaton baking sheet, Using a mandotne. eu the potato lengthwise int paperthin| shes. As you work, stackthe potatoes inthe orderyoucat them otha you willbe abe match them wp as elosely possible Ly the potte sees on the Sips in pes, Keeping sch one's match atts side. Plce 3 chve inthe enter of one ofthe potto slices andovereach lie with ts math. Use your fingertta pest and moots ‘exch chip removing anya pockets between the two potato slices. lee the second prepared iit ove the potatoes buttered ade oven. and top itwith a baking sheet towight the potatoesand Keep them Fat Bake For 20 to 25 minutes, reversing the pan halfy through the ‘cook process Remove the chipswhen theyaregldenbrowmn. The chive chips on be baked upto dayshed and kept ina aright container. Yo PACPARE THE CeGsneces, Uscan eggeatter (ee Sources, age 315) w cut ff the wider end of neh egg. Or. if you don't have an eg ater, rest an egg on ts side on 3 tre. Holding the og steal se = serrated knife to sac halfway through thewiderend Lifttheegguprigh. ‘remove and discard the id, pour the egginto a bowl. and save the shell Repeat wih the remaining eggs. reserving? separately forthe ested. inte the inide of the eggshells under warm water and ute your finger to loosen the inner membrane around the opening of the eR ‘Working al the way around the shel, eaeuly ull the membrane Aosenward, remove and dear, Break ofan loose itso sell from around the openingand make sure that the opening large enough fora apaon to fathrough i. Drain ‘he eggellsupsde down in the eggearton. ox Tue custanos, Preheat the ovento 27S. Heat the mill snd cream ina saucepan, Arsooneitreaches3 bol remove the pn from the hest. Turn ona blender and pour inthe ri and eresm. Then add the tulle othe reserved 2egge and salt and white pepper to tase, Turning on your machine before adding a hot Liquid wikeepthe liquid fromeplchingost ofthe machine should the blender be turned off at any point, be sure to place the lid om the machine beforeturningitback on) Sain the mixture through a chinois (se page 78) into 2 sm pee. Lethe custard sh fora few mines nd then kim off any fom ‘at ha riten tothe op. Turn the eggehelle upright inthe arom and fil cach eg thre quarters ul wth he custard 70 COOK THE Eacs, Used stanlesstel or gles king pn that ia large enough toholdtheegcartonsndst less 4 inches deep. fyouare ‘ising taint steel pan flda piece of newapspert tin the heton the newspaper will ep to distribute the heat evenly, I yu are usinga ass pants isnot necessary Place the carton inthe pan ad fill he pn ith enough hot water to eaeh tro thids ofthe wayupthe egg, form a batn-marie, oc water bath The water shouldbe inside the og cartonaa ella outside, CCoverthe pan with ld orhakingthest pce it inthe mile ofthe ‘ven and bake for 401045 minutes or unt the custard inst (Allowing ‘he eustrd to 00k sly prevents sit pockets) The nied egg cn beep inthe aterm warm pace for up to2 hour Fon THE TRUFFLE AAGOUT. Combine the ves tock, raffles, anda Arop or so of vinegar in a small saucepan. You shouldnt tate the vinegar. but rather use it a you would use sl 0 enhance the other flavors Simmer therogoutfor8 to minutes until t reduces toa sauce ‘consistency and conte the back of spoon. You wail hve 3 to 4 tablespoons sauce Yo COMPLETE. Snel he batter and truffle it and seston othe tle ragout ate, Place each egginancggeup. Spoon about ateaepoon of ragot ver the topafeachcustard. Gently stand achive chipanesch cota,Soft Poached Quail Eggs with Applewood: — —— ———«. oes (ond thei conon) 2ialepaon wie wine nego 102 aces tiny seed Bocon ‘ren ond eat assist Unc tes erving 2 diah-wbether a aeiap or 2 emallspontal of ere briléewatready “plated” on the silverware creates an elegant impression evenbeforeyou've teed the food. used toseramble a Guil ‘eagand sere it on soup spoon: here I've replaced it with a poached xg Is agreatilebite One ighta customer old eveyone thiswasso ood he ould eat ten of them. Sowe made en of them and ent them out to him on plate, ‘The best method for poaching cas isin a dep pot of water. As the weight oftheyolk pallathe egg sough the water, the whiteencirlethe yolk and sts Thedeeperthewater.the farther the egg travels before it stops. andthe mere the poached exgwill resemble its original shape ‘Youwill want. cooks feweutraeggs.asthere might be some breakage, Ina deep pot. bringatlest inches ofwatertoasimmer Hod each cxgonits ide ona towel nd we aserrated kf tout alfa through the arger end ofthe egg (ls important to cut the large end of he eg _aethe yok may not through the smaller end) Lt the eg and remove the top. Stand the egg in ther erton unilyou sre readyopoach them, ‘Once the waterissimmering gently. ad the vinegar. Pour the gs ‘rom the shell iota the wate, adjuting the temperatures necessary to keepthe water moving. Simmer for sbout2 minutes. or until the whiter ‘are just set bt the yolks are sill unny. ithe whites are not fl set, ‘hey wil break apart when touched) Remove the egg with a sloted ‘Statepoors Beare Mant (pg 135) 2 teaoers Bunce gon 135) Kesher soon shy rund Hock perper spoonorskimmertoa bow ofice water. Alter they have cooled ft one cepts time from the ee water and uses pale of Sissors to trim their “nla” and excess whites. Return them tothe ice waterand refrigerate ready to seve, or forupt02days ‘Place the bacon in a nonstick ile over medium het snd sat for about § minutes, or until browned and crisp. Drain the bacon on papertowels To COMPLETE) Remove the cold eggs fromthe water and place them tna saucepan with he beurre mont and water. Warm the eggs over low heat. then athe brunt, longwth altand peperforaste, The eas ‘en be held in swarm spot fr several asnuts. but be careful not 0 overcook them Place 1 eggen each of six poonsarrangedon aplater Topeach egg, ‘vith sauce and garish the tops wit the hscon Pass he spoons to your guest theeegare ot Nore. Applewood-smoked baton or any frutwoodssmoked bacon is sweeter than bocoaemcked witha hardwood such ae hickory. Freeze the Deon to make it ary tice, Pooch the eggs ahead of time and then ‘reheat them wihbeurremonté. The branoise, tiny dice ofveerbles. dds brightcolorand additonal Savor (ee the photograph on page 202).Cautittower Pa ? expheowyetom Soe, ebb wih brash oot Yet water [reese mt ct eben screw purée on the bottom with 2 eles “mirror” of abstr consommé on tops finished with oviar—butthe ream in thecsuilowerpurée lode the consommé. The dah’s fare resulted in two terrific canapés ‘cauliflower panna cota ad gelled lobster consommé ‘We prepare the cauliflower sa pannacott raditionallyan lian dessert of eked cream). then cost it wih gelled oyster jc. which add a shine tothe eream and erste bright backdrop forthe begs caviar. The mellow creaminess ofthe cauliflower is enhanced by and contaet the elinessof th eve ro shuck THE oySreRs: Hold an oyster in a towel to protect your hand, wil the rounded side down. Lean the wider end of the oyster gaint the tbleforaupprt Pash an oyster nif unde the hinge atthe ‘nsrow endof the shell Don't om the nfl. or yu risk damaging the yser Yu wil heara “pop twist the kif toloosen the shell Keeping ‘he ifedreetty under he top shel un he bade slong he ightside tact through the muscle. This wil release the op sell. whieh ean then be removed. lid the krifeunder the meat todetach he second muscle holding the oysterin place. Reeerethe oyster andl tsiees in semall Dove Repeat with he remaining oysters. ‘Transertheoystersto another smal owl Strain the ies trough a fine-mesh strainer int the bow, pour Vecupof wate verte oysters a refrigerate them for several hours oF overnight. To PRerane THe Panwa corta: Cut the florets of eslflower verily trough the stems into 46-inch slices. Spread he eauifower cvenlyin medium saveepon and add she buter and 14 cps of water or enough 1 come just tothe top ofthe eaullower (it should not be completely submerged). Simmer for sbout 30 minutes, or uni the na Cotte w dn Beluga Cavinr Welt shes se Soures pape 315) Fey ond Bock pepe 1402 ouncesbelvg coir liquid is slmost gone andthe ealifloweristender.Addthe cream and simmer fr another 10 minutes to reduce the cream and completely ook he eauilower “Transfer the cauliflower and cream to fod processor and blend nl completly smooth. Stan through ehinois seepage 73). There should be bout 1% eupsof purée. Taste for salt and 24d taste. Soak I gelatin sheet in cold water to cove for 2103 minutes 0 ‘salen. should fel very sat witno hard sections, Squeeze the excess liquid from the gelatin and str ito the warm eauflower misure unt dissolved ‘Spoon about 2 tablespoons ofthe pans cota into the bottom of ‘each of elve smal eeving bows or small eups and refrigerate fora lesstan hour ote. This eat be done several hours aiead, Remove the oysters rom the lid (Aiseatd them) and strain the ince, You willneed cup of oyster jie: refrigerate the juice. Place the femtning 's gelatin sheet and 2 teaspoons water in small metal bow! set over & pan of hot wet snd sue constantly to dlssolve the gelatin. Remave the bod fromthe heat ad add the eyier jice- Str again to be sure thatthe gelatin and juce are completely combined, Add about’ grinds ofthe peppermill. lice the oysterelly inthe refrigerator and sti ocessonally unit has thickened tothe consistency ofsslad oll and the bits of pepperare suspended in theiquid. Cost he tops ofthe chilled panna cotta with 1 teaspoonof the elyeach, rotatingthe bowls to ensure an even costing Returntothe retgerstor uni set orfor up tot day. ‘To seve. garnish te top ofeach panna cots with» quenelle (see page274), oramallovalscoop of evs.OYSTERS AND PEARLS® Sabayon of Pear! Tapioca with Maipeque Oyster “cap nal pe nice es ik 6 meoty ote such ot Mapege, 1%. boo creom Freshy gourd Hock pepper Veep etme tiene eter salt loge cap yous Yeap resewedorster bce thom above) ming is important in the completion of hs dth. The cooking ould be a continuous proces, so have the eream whipped, the ‘water forthe sbayon ht. and the remaining ingredients read 1A: Soak the tpices in cup ofthe milk fr 1 hour. (Setingitin 2 warm place wil speedup the rehydration ofthe pearls) ‘To suUck THe ovsrens, Follow the method for shucking described on page 22. Trim anay the mule and the overruled edge of each oyster and pice the trimmings in a saucepan, Reserve the whole trimmed oysters and strain the oyster juice ano a separate bow, You shuld ave about" cp of ie. Te Cook THE TAPIocA: Ina bowl whip" cup of the eresm jus, ‘unit holds its shape, reserve inthe efigerate. Drain the softened tapioca in astriner and decade mit, Rinse the tapes under cold running water. then place it nasal heat Pour the remaining % eup milk and% cup eram over the oyster ‘rammings. Bring 8 simmer. ten stain the infused Ligld oo the tapioes Discard the triumings. Cook the tapioca over medium heat, suring constanly with 2 ‘wooden spoon until it has thickened andthe spoon eavesa tra when ‘44s pled through. 7 8 minutes. Continue a cook fr anotherS to? ‘minutes, until the tapioca has no resistance inthe center and i ‘wanslucent The misture wil be sticky and ifyou lft someon the speon snd et fal some should il ling othe spoon. Removethe pot from the Neat and et aside i warm plac. ‘vow. Plce the eggylks and he "cup oysters in ametatlboulsetovera pan hot wate. Whisk vigorously over medium Stelepoon ey vermouth Remaining evened ate ace rom bore) 1p tebegcos mcd has and Osetra Caviar 1 tateipaons wie wine vinegar Brosespeons ounces) anu bate, ctr 8 pcet 1 oleeaon minced chives 1102 eines one conor teat for 2 103 minutes to incorporate 24 much air at posible. The finiehedsabayon ill have hikened and lightened. the fume will ave sulsided, and the sabayon yall hold a ribbon shen i fle from the whisk Ifthe mixture begins trea, remaveit fromthe heat and whit ‘ickly off the hes fora moment torecombine. then return othe hes, Stir the hot ssbayon ino the apiora along witha generous amount ofblack pepper. isin theereme fraiche and the whipped eam. The tapioca ville sereany paleyellow wih thetapioespearlssuspended in the mince. Season ighly witha. rememberingthatthe oysters and ‘the caviar garnish wl oth he ely. Immediately spoon % cup tpioea| Into each of eight 4- by S-inch gratin duhes (with a 3-10 4-ounce capacity). Tap the gratndisheson the outer sothat he tapioca forms, anevenlajer.Coverand refrigerate unt esdy use of for uptoa dy To coniere: Prehest the oven 12 350°F. Fon THe Sauce, Combine the vermouth, the remaining reserved oyster jie. the shallots. and vinegar ima smal saucepan. Bring 10 2 ‘simmer and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated but the hulls are lated. not ey, Whisk inthe butter piese by pee. adding 2 new piece only when the previous one is almost incorporated (as you ‘would fr Beurre Monte page 135) Meanwhile place the distesoftapiocaona bakingshectand heatin ‘he oven for 105 minutes. or until they just beginto put wp. ‘Addie oystersand the chives tothe sauce towarmthrough. Spoon 2oystereand some ofthe snc over each grin and garish the top with a quenelle (ee page 274). oF small oval scoop. of evar Serveimmedistly.Plelcled Oysters with English Cucumber “Capel © rreKuine UeUre {6 meaty ots, cf lon Stason By i+ ana Din po 3 ee seed Rack Se cif ance sge coir more oles ccong reap wore searevint’ "eww 1 Eten eeunbes seed tetera nd bute) 1 oro “ateczcen kober sat Songs a Seve oberpoan ize wine neg 6 coroner seeds "eaipcon chapped 2am Gr er treet aan atten fr a this case 2 great conapé—"Linguine” with White Clam Sauce (page 25)—Ied tthe erestion of another, Pike julened cucumber ‘replaces the espn. dl replaces the thyme and oysters replace the clams Instesd of being served hot inthe clam shells on rock sl. thi canaplieserved cold inthe oyster shes onabed of seaweed FoR THE FicKLING LlQUID, Place all of the ingredients in 2 saucepan, Bringtoa boll remevelrom the het cover. andllow steep ‘or 30 minutes. This is enough quid to pile np 02 doen oyster, ‘ro snueK THE ovsreRs: Follow the method for shuckingdeteribed on pe 22. ‘Wath thedeeperlalves of theshellaand rete. Usingtlaors cut nay the mbscle portion ofthe oysters and discard Wil the trimmed ‘oysters (ent under eld running water 'o remove the my residue, hich wuld eeagulae withthe vinegar in the peking liquid and rete sn unaned costing on the oysters. Add he eytrsto the ping Liquid and refrigerate ina covered container for atleat 12 and upto Ibhours Fon twe “eareuLinin: Usings mandoline, et vineh-lengthinie tees from one tde ofthe eveumber wnt you reach the seeds Tarn the ‘eueumberndcontinetcutalicestromallfouride ofthe cucumber. Stack he slices snd eu them lengthwise into Vine juenne trips to resemble cspelini. You will need 1 cup “eapellini~ Combine the ceveumber stand with he Koaher stand ree wine vinegae in a bowl ‘and allow themto marinate for abst 30 minvtestocatrat exceed Drsinthe"eapelin” and squeee to remove exes quid. Pace in a bowland os eth the coped il yo compere. Paces bed ofthe reseed or ockssltmixonesch of sixserving plates Til the cucumber wil fork. a5 you would pats, and pace 2 mound in each oyster shell Remove the oysters om the 1idsndplaceanoyser oneachmound ofeucumber.Carnish pickling ‘och oyte ithabout teaspoon of evar and a 4prigat dil Rockit Gee Sawer pope 315) Ape bres Steronse Cloves Sopot oc xpercoms “Ths isa decorative snd praca bse for clam and oyster dishes. The shells nestle comfortly sth alt nd fs een heated, the msi hoepkeepthe shellfish hot and givff fragrant arom Itean be kept Sndeliniely at roo temperate ‘Thereare no specific proporions or pies for this mx: Usethe sl aeaate and mixin at much ofeach spice you with ix the mgredient, then store in 2 covered container 3t room temperature, The mixson be reused many times 36 longs i hese id not be,“Linguine” with White Clam Sauce - © 16 tvenck coms sekedin afew changes of col woteforenrl os in, Dirge lowes go, epee, Sahl hes 1 big sha, run chores 2 sia te 2 smet boy koves “Arp re, dy wie wine sch 8 ‘te Vince ‘anion Blan or Mutcoset ueliaionslesc refined andredvedto acanpeste—lams reamed ‘open in white wine fused wh gate and thyme, auee made from ‘the elom broth, butter. and more gabe, We se resheapeliniinstesd of linguini ad whole itleneckelans henserve the fia ish nthe ln sells (Do not season the ssuee unt right before sem. ethereal slttothedish) Fo cooK THE CLAM: Place the clans, gue, sll, thyme sprigs ‘nay leaves and wine ina stiles see sucepon tat hold he clams in lone lyer. Gover aid bring bol over meuum heat. moving he elams round from ue time ensure even cooking. Remove each lam ati ‘opens. Thitshould tke place wihinaboutSminuten diseardany nepened clams. Strain the broth through achinos (seepage 3) and et stde Remove the cla from theshelle, Using paring kale, loosen the muscle attached 10 the shell Save the 18 largest half shells forthe finighed dish Pull way snd dear the muscle rom ech lam leaving only the ender center sevion ofthe elm. Trim te clamsas necessary for a smooth edge, The clams can be prepared t ths point up 03 day ahead, I you ae nt completing the dish ll the brat 0 cool The place the elamsin container withthe cooled brothand refigerste, Plcethe trimmed clams andthe roth nsepsrate sal saucepan. Preheat the oven 325°, ron rwe sauce, Whishthe gue pureinto the clam broth and bring toa boil Simmer to reduce to 2 103 tablespoons. Whisk in the buster piece by pec. sing the nex piese only when the last pec elmo ‘incorporated. Seaton with white wine vinegar, Remove from the hest and srsin oa bowl. Pourhalf ofthe straned enuce over he clams, 2 eospoorsRoted Gale Pare recip tows) Reserved lam both (hom above 12 teleoone cues) aaah be, ounces Poste Deis (pon 78 ‘etad out and et it capt 1 tebiessean hoped ain oy teaspoon thyme ees Kosher soon esi round lock pnp Fen dopro wie wine soar 3. Rock So Mp0 26) ro courctre. Spreadtherockssltonabkngsheet placeinthe oven. and hestfor about Snnute, or uni hot and arom, Meanwhile ld the pasa oa age pt of lightly ated boiling ater and coker about? ‘minuts.oruntltender. Cnty reheat the lms. Drain thepass.thentosit inthe bowl he emsiningsouce. the paraey.and thyme leaves (chopsticks work eliforths). Seatonto tee see shed of watmrockealton each fsx plates, Using smal fork, thie mall portion ofthe pasta and pce Hin a retervedeamahell repeattofilalleshels-Topeschportionofpastswiha warm lamand semeofthessuee Arrange led elamaells on earhbedofrock st Wa tabscoons nied buster Slerge heat gate (obout7 owes) Preheat the oven 10 200° ‘ce the butte ona double thickness of foland smash ito make Inte forthe gai. Top withthe garlic and sprinkle with he sll Fold lover the sides to make a package and rast for 1% hours. or until the etic sft ‘Whilst ssl warm, serapethe softened gare through tamis see age orpasitthrougha food mil leaving behind he shins. Rested trl purée should be sed the sme dy ix prepared.1 ching Kile open She Fret on the ovetoking he Nopa eisai Ceiveavalentsl el the best ime 10 frog, especialy for he nolan, gives ofl 0 phorohorescent glow inCottrnia wp nt he Yskon, They ve lary oie scien ens and cheap never ne you hed” Connie sort. ALRSou plus ese sape ae nena pec ne el el ete ee ee ee ee ee eee se eeeteln as pee iar ace See eee Se ee Ba a ech yor apie eae eee ae are tee feet osu ict aegdty ered eens twin. When ohare yoringrdent nko ed kh be” Cart They 1 rot vegetbl, you gle them If you glare them perfec, these’ our soup adj the contiseney with stock or other lid, Crenvegesblea? Startby“big-pot blanching” thenpurée, da iqud andsran-there'syoursovp, “Theliqud depends on your ingredient I is turnips, you can ue chicken sock. because 3 turnips averysharp Frat vor tht won't he lost beneath the chicken Mavor Faas though, are delicate and fresh yournaynoteven want vegetable tock maybe just enoagh waterto bring the puréete the righ consistency, \Weuyto make eight soups every day snd the single dea behind them eto tently the vee sod color the main ingredient, One spoonful of rot soup shoul deliver the Moor of several carrot A cate of watererest makesony tebe ounces of prt. It then needs tobe dilited ikea are pain that needs tobe thinned witha ner oiTbeforetcan heputon the cane. Cerny thereare ease of finesse, sucha adding cream. Cream tends to muteflvors butt sidsbody and texture. Addingoils to soups finishes and enriches them: the pea soup with white tee iia perect example, Weuse lobster stock for mosoupe Fortheonsommé. we dani, (gt and tpi with ere faiche For the broth, we reduce the toc oa glace andeream tthe mate lobe st.Lobster Consonuné on Geide —-— ° Yeewp cane 3 pound berboes cbt 1210 13bede, se pose 124, uted We ns (6Moonce) chopped tena 1% caps (B ounces) seed coro, caps (8 ounce) ced btn matrooms Whip (6 aes shed shale Dep ey vermouth 4 doe gate Bess fs cre amen of ied ie ing se latin: simmer the tock to reduce ito the exaet quantity ‘specfed, Because thie sup is exradorinaniycich-Iober exten. Imageid-we serve it ig very small bons or demas cups, jut to ounces per serving. This recipe will make four cua of contommé. don't eeeommend reducing the recipe Further. but any extra contomme canbe froren ron THe s70CK: Heat the ol na large ronden, oF deep staight- ‘sided rating pan. overmediumhighbeatjustuntil st smokes, Add the lobster bodies and saute, turing often, until they turn red, 340 4 minutes. Becarefl not tet them burn. I your pot sot age enough toaccomplish this easly. do iin two boehes) ‘Add the Fennel, esttts, mushroom. and shallots, Continue ooking. sicring oeasionally or about 10 minutes, to soften but nat Color the vegetables. Add the vermouth, water athe aragon, and fomotoes and bring toa ail. then reduce the heat apd et the stack mer for 2 hour, Strain the stock through 9 Chins cp (ace page 72) smashing the shea and vegetables with wooden spon to extract 24 much liquid 36 possible, Dicard he shells and vegetables and pour the wok theo 2 hina Gee page 23), tapping the op sim tahelpit run through. Dont "aeup( unc) hy packed arose 4 pounds chapped omotes 7 cs) 2 loge egg wes ic tte car eee pope 38, ot temperature opons but rearmensed) 4 gn shes eSources, pope 319), soked ‘noid otro alten ener up I ures chapped ene! Generous, ep (4 once crepe cat cup ences copped oion ‘al pice tr corona) WY apcrtme aise, whieoed ‘Ast 2 olespoon Baroe (096 158) stirorfore any cemsining solid hroughthestrainer: they would loud the stock Thereshould be approximately 4 quarts f stock, Let ool 0 oom temperature. Thestockcan be refrigerated forup day. Removes discard ny ft fromthe op ofthe stock then places ‘ina ey pot. Fon THE ecanification Rat Finely grind the fennel. carrots, snd onion ina met grinder o food processor. Whisk gg whites and ‘he Ycupcorlina bos! unifoty.thenstirin the ground vegetables, ‘Whisk the vegetable mitre ima the ol lock age the pot over const wth awoeden spoon unlit eaches [28°F lowheat ands Stopateing and bringthe stock to ime. ‘athe liquid begin tosimamer, raf willform overthetoek. Cots |-to2-4neh “breather” hole nthe side of herafl. Youwllbeabletosee the movement ofthe simmering stockthrough the hole. The rf ste afiltero clay the stock Theliquid may simmer up through eatin fen spot butt should never beats fllbol. which would breathe ‘lanifieaion raft and cloud the contomimé, Simmer for I hour. Be sre to keep thebrestherhole open, nea China ap wih damp towelor cheesecloth and seit over deep container, Leaving behind a nich ofthe raf. poasbe ladle the sockalomlydownthesidect thecloth, sartingst the topf the strainer. ‘Pouring this way wll keep he liquid rom pushingthrough ny f2torImpurities that gather the bonam ofthe China cop.) Tt he potas necessary to resch 38 much lear stock 8 possible. Lev behind any ‘at doesnt look lear sd daar talong wih the raft Youshiould hive shout? quarts ofonsammé. ‘You will be able to se, sting ontop. any fot remsining inthe consommé. Gemly ly 2 paper towel ontop ofthe lund and quickly ile toverthe surface. Dieard the towel and repeat several more ines ‘ui hee 0 remaining at (whieh ould eld he consomme) Line 3 chins with 2 clesn towel or cheesesath and strsin the consommé one last tine ina spo. Bring ito simmer and reduce the consort qua Squeeze the gelatin sheetsdryandstirthem into the hot consommé til eompletely diaolved, Set ina larger totineo'ceand waterand let cool f9 room temperstre, stirring scaly then refrigerate, ‘covered, forseveral hours, or overnight. tog. Theconsomm will ee felegerated for up 03 days after 3 days itcanbe rebated and kept for 1 to 2 mere day). Forlonger storage, stan be faven or pte | month Pourinto a container, “The yowortul lobster Jelly mete In your when eayto we. defrost he consommé and bingo bol, then eeal se above and allo tregelin the refrigerator FOR THE LOBSTER CORAL (oPTsONAL!: Wrap the coral in plate wrap Place tina reesabe plastic bog presingout sna fom the bo, nd sath bgwellSubmerge itn boiling wer and cook the coral unt ints turned bight red (jouare making ard-baled egg). Removethe ‘oral fromthe hagand refrigerate itforan hou, unt ta col (rate ar grind the eotal in 3 mini-lender or grinder. Store the round coral inthe efeigerstor until ready touse ot forupto day. er ‘erp wll and rete fr up to several months, (The eooked coral ean te froten at lid plcee and then grated while ail froten when ready to use) ro couP.ere: Desk up the cold contommé with spoon and place shout cup in eathservingcup or bowl Topeachservingofconsommé witha quelle Gee page 274), orl oval sop, of whipped eréme {rsiehe and sprinkle wth the brute and, using. grate etalCreamy Maine Lobster Broth. © ‘obterboies (12 ounce ttl seepage 124), cutntoquctes 8 es chopped tomes Yecup chopped coat 1 bunch tragan (cure 2evps eo ceom and creamisa nario combination, intensified hereinihe formofacanspé sup, Ifroththe broth befor serving. ‘Whenyovarepreparinglobter.savethe bodies tomake this broth (Groce themif need befor fture ue. This is 3 ery rch soup, bee served nell portions Heatthe oll i alargerondeau.or deep taigh ied basing pan Add the lobster shellesndsearovermediumhigh hestfor I 02 minsterper side, unl they re re, (Ifyou pot snot hig enough to accomplish hig easy. dost An two batches) Ald the tomatoe, eatzot, and tarragon cover he shells 2nd vegetables wth water. and bringto abo! ‘Skim olfan impurities that iaetot top Reducethehest andsinner ‘overlow heat for | hour. Strain the stock through lage strainer oF 2 ‘China exp (ace page 9), smashing the lobster bodies with wooden ‘spoon to extract all the quid, and then atrain agin though 2 chinole (ee page 73) imo a clean sancepan. Ret he srsned sock the stveand seer unite reduced to cup Adds heavy cream return toa simmer ani cook shining, occasionally, until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. Strain through 3 chinois into a container. diearding any solids remaining in the strainer, Coverand refrigerate the broth for several hours ta chlo for up to3days To COMPLETE: Place the cold broth in a henvy saucepan and whisk, ‘gorously over medium heaa5you reheat it The broth wil frthasyou tehisk na, Pour the hot Broth into demise cups Gazpacho © 1 cup chopped ed elo | eapchoppedoreen bel pepper | eu hopped Er cube 1 cp pve on chapped ometoes 1% teaipons chavo aoe ean ashe it 1 rolepaen wite wre vinegar Veeup pus 2rebespoont env win one ot oblespeonesh lemon ice Bepstomeo pice pg ol hye Baltic Gare (poe 28), a eevee brie on vay thinkof gazpacho astoup, Thinkofitasasauc. Think ott ht a well ead goes beauflly with giledehicken or fh. Caspacho is served in small portions ae 2 eanapé atthe French Laundry gatnshed wth balsa glaze, ora sate wi he Salad of (Globe Aruchokes with Garden Herbs and Garpacho (page 62) It can lko be served in larger portions asa traditions cold soup. This soup ‘could be easier: aieve it powerful vor simply by overnight ‘maceration which the oly “cooking” involved. ‘Mic al the ingredients except the baluane gate together in bowl or ‘other container cover, andleait inthe efrgerater overnight. The nex day, remove the thyte and blend all the ingredients i blender until the gsipacho ie smooth You il have about 2 quarts. For smoother vesture stra the soup 1 yield about I quart. Refrigerate the gazpacho until realyto serve, 10 com*ieTe, Lae the cold soup into bowls and equsete dots of| Inlamiglate over the top." 2 J aPurge of English Pen Soup with White ‘Tr 2 pounds Engh pecs, heed (cout 3p bur | cop sor ecuptanersat VitoVacup Vegeta Ste pge 27) Le OF staid Parmnenan Crisps Veeipwitewsteot 60 12 Pormeson Cos aie felons) (1 persone) Kesher ston eh round white pepoer Tiss teat seme he ane ay 4 made il oxidize. oF discolor over ime, The vivid green fie soup resus ‘mam extraordinary visual impact, The secest ofthis recipe ties on ‘he quality ofthe pest. Look for small sweet peas. Taste your peat fr seciness fo determine the asount of gato alt the water (make this soup on early summer when English peas are a their peak). A Parmesan ersp placed on each servngcup t.a“asbe cue to make the esp ase appropriate your cups. Tit sup cn be served ot or col, but either way. ike w enrich t with wie waffle i. whieh enhance it lsarios favor and estre Place the peas ia bow. cover them with ee and tosstogetherto cil ‘he peas (this step wall help reur thee right elo Bringthe water 0a oligo nalargepo nd ad he sugar and ‘al, Lit up a sal batch of pea wih strainer, leting thee fall be, sto the bow. dad them to the water. is mportant atthe water returns obo almost immediacy to keep he peasa vivid greencolor may nt iftoo many peas are added, so ads the quantity added necessary to mainisin the bol, Cook the peas un heyare tender and fully cooked, 710 10 minutes depending onthe quantty and qualy of peasadded While the peas cok. plea colander ina bow afte water (Thi wall make 1 easier 19 remove the ellled cooked peas from these) ‘When the peas are tender, remove them to the colander to bill 3¢ ely a8 possible, Lift the colander frm the te bth and dein the pss well.Repet this process uti al the peat are cooked. Puré the peas in fod processor. hen serape the parée trough 3 ‘amis (ee page 73) (If he vegetiblesate cooked correc. sme ofthe rée wil sick to the bottom ofthe wire seen and you wil hve to scrape off) You shoul have abou 2ewps of pure. Place sup vegetblestockand the water inalargebtender your ‘bende i ml you may want do ths nwo Batches). Ad the pea purée Mend. The color ofthe soup wil lighten rom these bended foto 8 but it wil return Wo datk green after itis.) Check the consistency ofthe soup. ft sto thiek and needs more liquid add tither mee vegetable stock or more water. dependingon how flivorful ‘he soup is. ad blend again. Adda pinch of salt white pepper taste, and blend agin. Pour the soup through chino (eee page 73). Ifyou reserving the eoup col, stein the truffle i and refrigerate the sop Jina covered container unt serving Ifyou are serving the Soup hot reheat gently overlowhest and skin the fe oat before serving, Serve the soup garnished w is he Parmesan eri cup ny gated Pemigora Reggene (rom moi ple of dee) “Thee craps canbe made in any ae, ifs important toute fesly rated Parnigtno-Reglane, Tete ae easy and hive many utes-serve them with aalds or soup. or vse them to held gat cheese mousse ‘page 49)-but be sure o make extra. because youl want 0 eat a Fw se you'e mak hem, Prebeathe avento325.Lineaakingsheet wih Sips! eeSourees page a5). Sprinkle about? esspoonsof te cheeteinone corner ofthe Silpa. Use your fingers o spread the cheese into 32-inch ice, Repeat wu thecemsning cheese: youshould have about 2 ound. BakeorB10 10 minutes oruntliheyare golden brown, sea smal paula totranafer them o paper towels Theywillstil beoft when they ate removed bt wil alfen a they cool. Store the eriap nan airtight nr forup o 2 daysBU ir econ espe eey settee nee cen ects yr eae eae Se oe eee Ce ee ee eer othe prt een nen it nee errr este ete ete ae Ce lee ee ere rest even wath just ite fresh bute. Although we make them smal, ther’ no reason you cov make then ange.Yuleon Gold Potato Bint © 1 pound ohon Geld patios 20 3tbigonn cre lice, 100m tempera ke toute Yukon Gold potatos for these bln Because they absorb ‘more cream thn other potatos and thus eel in the best possible texture, Thi reipe wil make entra bater, but fa dfel eipe to reduce Thebttriabestwhentsed immediately. bu iteanbe made up te wohoure ahead ifstordina warm pce he ream maylotfitgets too cold. Use = sele to weigh the proper amount of potatoes afer puréeing them, and make the batter whe he potatoes rest warrior ‘he bliniwill nothave the correct texture Pisce the potatos ina saucepan with eld water to cove by east finches. Beingtoaboiloverhigh het reduce the heat, and immer unt the potatoes are throughly cooked and vender. eel the warm potatoes and pres them though 3 tame (ee page 73) Immediately weigh out 9 ounces of purée potites and place them ‘na medium metal howl Wotkngquely whiak the flor oto the warm potatos then whisk in 2 tblespoonsertme aiche Ad egg whisking unt the baer is smooth add the eecondegg. and hen 34he yok Hold the whisk with some of the Batter over the bow. The batter should alin the steam but old its shape when thts the teri the bow, Ist eto thick, adda tle moreertme fraiche. Season to tsstewith satan white pepper Heaton electric riddle e 380°, Note, ifyoudo nothave griddle heats large nonstick skit over medium-low heat Spon between I and 1% teaspoons of batter onto the griddle or skillet foreach pancake. (Cook unt the botiome ar browned, I 192 minutes. Then flip them to ‘ook the tecond side, about 1 misute, The blini should be evenly Ibrowned witha amal ring of wit around the edges Transfer the lini toa eal baking hee! and keep warm while you maketh remaining bins, wiping the skillet with s paper owel between batches. Serve the bins esoon as posible. Blint with Bottarga di Muggine © cup minced Tate Cart pee nae 64) ‘Watalegoos Veto Stock ape 227 Cheken Stock (page 26) 2opoert ene vie on of ‘taleszoars Sere Mont (page 138) 1p espa minced talon pley 12 When Gd Peto Bi res eee) Sat pee of otarge mugine ie Sees, 29035) otarg ithe salted roe of cod ortuna ure bongs di muggine rom eod. because thse muldr Havor then the tuna, botarga di tonne. s sold by the piece and. kept wghtly wrapped in the tefeigeator, wills for months. Islands plessst fishy ase, rot unlike anchovies In aly. grated over pista and is wonderful ‘hatwayItwould also workperfecty asa garish or szoto, or grated Warm the tomato confit and stock in a amallsnusepsn over medium heat Stiri the live oll and simmer fora fewseconds Rede the heat ad ai inthe benere mon, parley, and alt tote Place spoonfl ofthe sauce on exch plate Tep each plate with 2 bin and grt botargs overand around the pancakesBuint w! h Roasted Sweet Peppers and Eggplant Caviar s — Zrablpoorsmincedroatedyelow bel EPET_ Yh epcone Vegetable Stock Gone 227) or Kates (see pone 2501 Cheer Stock ge 225) "cup Eon Covi ip ftom) 2 neberoon nce rooted rd be poet 1 blespon Beare Ment Gone 135) 12 Yon Gal Foo Bn nope 4) (be 90 250) ‘Combine the minced peppers and stockin smallasucepen and sirer ‘over medium heat until most ofthe stock has evaporated, Reduce the Deatand stein thebeurre mont, chives, and sito taste, Remove fom Place 2 spoonfal of eggplnt caviar on each plate. Top with 2 overlapping potato lin and garnisheach serving with a quenlle (see age 274), r mall ol scoop, of ossted peppers Sprinkle the plates sth the pepper comets 1 orgeeggle abot 1M punt Yecup eco ign ov 0 us entre osing Ye tetgoon verily iced ge (tres pete) "Asereoon Don nord (Gu the eggplant engtiwize in haf, care bth ales onthe Nes side, makings rstroeepalternaboutYsnch deep Sprinkleothbalveswith salt snd pce them scored side down on 3 baking sheet, Cover with nother baking sheet and places hesvyobject (such at et bowen 19 sector minced ives ‘vou 14 tesco Pepe Cone (page 7 top. Lettheegpant renderite excess qui at oom temperstarefor to hove Preheat vent 50°F ing the eggplant. pat dry and rb wth some oie ol Place the halves esse down on alight oiled baking het Roastfor abot sn hows, er uni the eggplant is very aft and the ein wrinkled there should beno eistancemhentested witha kif Remove fom he oven sndlet si until col enought handle Seoop out the eggplant pulp and lightly chop it Place the pulp na double ayer of cheesecloth and tie i securely into 2 bundle with butcher'stwine, Leave the end of he twine about 6 inches longo you cambang he bundle fom a refrigerator shelf vera bowl. making sue 1 dangles Srey. Or simply place the bundle in colander set over 3 bowl and refrigerate, Let drain foratlest2 hours. or veright Remove the eggplant from the refrigerator and hold the bundle over the sink. Twat and squeee the cheesecloth to remove at much dain liquidas posible Place the pulp (you should have aboot ‘4 cup) in a smal food processr or mini-chap. Pulse a few times to begin breaking up the eggplant Wih he motorrunning slomlypout2tablespoonsolheolive oil through the feed tube, Continue blending or 30 seconds. The color and tenure wllegin to ighten. Stop the machine and adhe gar, rstrd, and slt fo taste Blend again. then add the remining 2 tablespoons olive el, Continue processing for another minute, then tasteandadjst the seasoning Cover and storein the refrigerator until readytoserve.or for upto | week sees WecurThe Importance of Hollandaise My mother, a single parent by the time we moved to South Florida, managed restaurants. After I graduated from high school, I washed dishes at one of them, the Palm Beach Yacht Club in West Palm Beach. ‘Whenthechef there quit Mom told me was the cel eslleduponeot my buddies and aad if he waned job, First thing we did én the morning wa clean the batreoms. Then we'd clean te ding rom, then setup for lneh. Dinner ton. on weekend. Together we ran he show-wedid eveything My ler brother, Joseph wa cook atm yptsleFrenehireaurnt neat, and when we were groving up Jeep ried tokeep good ford an ‘he table for Mom nd mylourbrahersand eventually stepdad and hal sister, Bat other than Joseph, no one was expel terete in food. As farssatrae.l ended ovardesrpenty tf tonardanyonc ay tb Now suddenly Iwasa chef. The yearwas 1975, and the yacht hobs food was basi: hamburgers, French fries sandwiches, ege Benedict. When didn't know how to bro loiter tial Joseph and heel me how. He told me how to cook prime eb learned how 0 make omelet. learned how to cook mest tothe righ temperature. ‘Then he walked me dhrough makings hollandsse enue. I'd jut turned weeny Iwatso ected by thal fet hllandsise hat ane and told Capa John, the dock manage, about it Hollandaise beesme the reat day challenge Ii warted wih the clsfcation of baer, I had no ide of the science of cooking. didn’t know why buterelarified so even this wat something apparently ordainedby the gods, "Wil itlaify today?" Ta ‘think. “Hope to ‘And then the hallandsie el. Again, I had no ides why the egg ‘yolks and elariied buner came togeter. | never stsciated with mayonnaise“ did’ thnow how mayonnaise wa made, Hollandaise was ata» fe of teow You could ere it yp in insta mysterious thi a sevond, and {was tried every morning that, without reason t snuld fl part Joreph aught meto whisk in litle boiling water iit ‘brokesometimes that worked, somtimes it didnt: didnt know why. To me, hollandaise stvee was magic. Nothing we di a the yacht lab had hat hind of mystery fr me or wats critical a this centuries od Pench emulsion sauce. | worked at the yacht elubfortwoyeare and 1 made llandaise evry day. It was not ony the high point of ea morning tying to get the hollandsceperfest making hollandaise wae thigh pot of those ta year “Today. el got ret pleasure from making ahllansice sce or any of ite derivatives Nove aight tarnase hollandsite Favored with hallo and tarragon Isometimesserve itt the French Laundry with abit thas a realanchoring quality for me beesuse of ts importance duringmy Sestoeo years a3 cook-ever day of hose to years tying toperfct hat hallandsiseANclariclbésrnaee should bea hike mayonnaise. This recipe etn effeets standard bésenaise wth whipped cream added 3 the end to make igh snd pourable: Reduce red or white wine vinegar ‘wth chopped shallots. chopped fresh tarragon, and cracked black pepper unt the this _ot=remove he pan from he heat and whisk eeanwaise mousseuine ‘over direst heat ina pan with sloping sides, ‘bu you may feelsafercookingit over aster bath. Add egg yolks and half an eggsbel of water per yolk Whip the yolks continuously ‘over the heat you'llse them ghten up and ‘eventually form nibs. When the eggsare thoroughly eooked=the ribbons shouldbe ‘hick, the mater shoud iste cooked and be {im elaitied bute i thin tedy stream, “Whenyouveslseved the right consistency (hou 8 ounces ofbutter for every3 yolks), teand season with salt and lemon jie, thenstrainthrougha chinols, jst before serving. add chopped Fresh tarragon. finely ‘minced shallots, nd freshly ground back pepper, then sir in whipped eream=abovt a third ae much by volume,Garden Canapés oupsiercmps apdthey te cepeclly delicous with Champagne before dinner.Gruyére Cheese Gougéres a _ 7 tepoens (9% cue) ued bute | tblspon athe so, or mere te scape (5 euces) ltpupote ue bro Stage coo: a capsreted Guyer ances) Frey grand we pepper Preheat te oven to 50°F: Line two baking shets wih Silas (ee Sources page 315) or parchment paper. Ina medium saucepan. combine the water bute. sl and sugar snd beingto abo Addl he flue atone, reduce helet medium. and tir with wooden spoon fr 2 minutes, of wnt he miatre forms 2 ball and the excess moisture has evapratd (the bal forms more ‘ikl. continue to cook and sti fr3full2 minstes). Tranfer the mixture the bowl ofa mixer ited withthe paddle and beat foraout 20secondsst medium speed cool sgl Add 4 egguand ‘continue to mix untilcompetly combined andthe bate has asmoat, silly texture. Stop the machine and ft up the beater to check the ‘consistency ofthe bate. The bater nthe mining bol should fm 3 peak with tp that fall over It to sf, beat in the white of the emainingogg Checkagainand, frees. ad theyll: Finally. min "4 cupo the Gryére and adjust the scatoning wheal andwhite pepper. Fill psy bag fied with 2 inch plain pasty tip withthe ougtrebatter Pipe the batter in| tablespoon maunds onthe baking sheets leaving about 2 inches between the gougire tthe micure wll spread daring baking. Sprinkle the top ofeach gouge with about Y teaspoon ofthe remaininggatedcheese and take for? to8 minutes. oF ‘util hey puff and hold their shape. Reduce theheat 350°. and bake for an 2ddstonsl 20 t0 25 minstes. When the gougtrs are done hey shouldbe alight golden brown colo. When you break one open t shouldbe hallow, the inside should be cued but til slightly mals Remove the pansfromthe oven and reve he gouges while hot “CHIPS AND DIP~ Potato Chips with Teurtie Dip | exp Cand Bumer(o0ye 125, aed eters N02 ast pottoes 241048 in hese Block al 1 V2 cance) Yep creme che Veeace ah lock mle, Finey minced 2 cepa whe leo atest end esti ground Hock pepper Pretest he oven o S10. Fox THE CHIPS: Place a Spat (sce Sources, page 315) on & baking set and generoualy brush it with clarified butter, aprinkle with dosh eat Peel the potatos and trim them into long ovals approximately 2 inches lang and 1% inches wide, Using a mandoline, eu the potatoes Ante paper-thin oval. As you war, stack the patos in the order you cutthem sothstyouwil be ableto™match them up alosey 3 posible ay the potato slices on the Sipat im pais. keping each one's match at its sde Place ane or two truffle ses each on half the potato slices and cover each with ite match, Press and smooth eath chp 1 emoveany sr pockets between the wo pts sies. Brush the potatoes generously sh clarified buter and place 3 ‘second ilpat over them. Top he potatoes witha baking sheet to weight them aod keep them Mat. Hake fr 25 1 35 minutes, reversing the pan halvay trough dhe coking process. Remave the chips when they ae golden brown ad drain on paper towels FoR TwE o1P: Inabowl set over alarger bowl ofc. whip the crime feaiche unt stiff. Reserve I te 2 teaspoons of the minced truffle 19 the erame fraiche {garnish the dip nd sti the remaining truffle i [Adah trffe ol and season to taste with stand pepper. ‘Spoon the dip into a seiving bowl and aprinkle withthe reserved trues, Seve the chips ontheside.Parmigiano-Reggiano Crisps with Goat Cheese Mousse = = © PARMESAN CRISPS oar cnetse mousse 1 elespoon incense ouncestvesn goat hese oer ot on es around bic pepper (orater sf got chee) 1 eo tne ted Poriiora Regina (tom moist eco hese) 2 dean eng oto ere. these easy Parmesan erp form smal cup for aereamy gost cheese mousse W's best to bake only al the esp 3 3 time, Decatnethey may harden whl youre workingwth them, Preheat theoven to 325°F. FOR THE parutsay R159: Linea bakingshect witha Ssipat ee Sources page 316) or sea nonsick baking sheet Places 2%-inch ringmald (ee Sources, page 5) none comer of ‘the Spt and fil with | tablespoon of the gated cheese Usingyour finger. spread he cheese intoan even yer. Repeat to make 8 rounds, leavingat lee neh between them, ‘BakeforB1.o 10 minutes, or unl the erspsarearichgolden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and Let coo! for abst 30 secant firm the eps enough so you can remave them with a paula One by one remove the erape and geniy press eich one into 3 hallow in the eg ‘carton to form tip shape. After a few minutes, remove the ecole craps rom the eatton and make Bmore crisps. Fox THE coaT cwerse mousse. Place the gout cheese a fd processor and proces (depending on the eheeee used t may look smooth or crumbly). Pour cupof the cream through he feed tube ant eontinue to process unt the mixture i soot but wil held a shape when piped if necessary. da ite more era, Ad the parsley and sit and pepper to tste and mix ya o combine Taste and adjust the seasoning, The mousse canbe refrigerated for 2 to 3 days let stand t room temperatuce or sb! 30 minstesto sfen slightly before ping. Place the moueee in pasty bog ited with mediumstar ip. Pipe 203 teaspoons of mouse into each Parmessncrigp ad rereShrimp with Avoendo Salsa recipe Cout Bouton reco flows avocaoo satse 6 lage shin (261020 pe pou inh hts 2 tsps vty nly edd cron Saez oemen sce, orta teste Kosher sl nd tet round lock pepper 2 relspcone very nly od cucumber ‘a cip ga 2taespoors very finly deed avocado 1 ecipoon le | Breet stn nt ser eed one fk i an exellent cane to serve guts who re sanding. rox rhe sumim, Bring the court bouillon to 2 simmer in a large Savcepan ad he shrimp. a simmer for 1 minute, Remove from the heat. pout te shrimp and boullon nis cntainer, et he ship ‘00 the liquid Cover and efrigerte for wptoa dy before serving. ror tHe sats, Inabow. miathered onlonand eveumber together. Carefully odin the avec, aking eae note crush it Seaton withthe cl lemon juice. snd salt nd pepper otaste To compere, Peel theshrinp removing heshellsbutkepingthe ta tps intact Dry the shrimp on paper towels. Cut each shrimp lenght in lf dn the ck and ue a paring knife to remave the vein that rus the length ofthe shrimp, Speareach shrimphalf onthe tip ofa fork Pace aspoonfulot sala fon the fork behind each shrimp. Arrange the forks on aplater and ornih each mound of ela with tomate dimond. 12 tomate damande se pe 203) 1 Bouguet Garage 3) 2avate moter 2a, came Minch rounde 6 Bock eppecors ‘Weapscocey chopped cient Yeap cap, ey nite wine, leeks pitlengtvse wasted and such 8 Souvoren lore ‘tno Yiroypect cbt eug) Yh up dy wht wine vinegar 1 medumtenrl by cooly topped (aout 2eaps wie nly i oaking etood) Cour bouillon means “shor” bouillon, or quick osk—an sedi quid flavored with vegetables and aromatics in which fish or shellfish are posched. The Iquid edsingshedy fresher and high cid 0 i'stmportan tad that sei. whether inthe form of wine eon ie, nd/or vinegar. just beforeyoucookthe fish Thisisenough ia cook one Dungeness rab 12 018 sheimp, Poe the water in large pot. Ad the vegetables, bouquet gan. and Peppercorns. Bring toa boi. reduce ta simmer. and add white wine nd sine vinegar, Have the lemon, squeeze inthe juice anda the ‘les id tabilites proteins the seafood giving ita beter texture. yo cook seis. Bringtheliguidtoa simmer. add the shrimp. and simmer fort minute, Remove the shrimp eabewl and pour the liquid ‘over them. Let them cosl to room temperature, then cover and ‘refrigerate vil chilled: orfor upto day. Yo COOK OUNGENESS eae. Bring the liquid to simmer, drop in the eta rewen the bouillon 0.2 simmer, and cook for 4 minutes, Remove the pot from the heat nd et he erab and liqud cel to room, temperstre. Transfer the ersb and liquid 1 2 container, cover. and refrigerate until eadyo ute,| 2 0Salad of Potite Summer Tomatwes with Vine-Ripe Tomato Sor 2Va poids oats (107 med ote, 1 pen once out 3 edu omstet Yc tty ed Pormifone Reapane 1 respons mined seman, 1 teaspoons mined ation panty feed, seeded, ond oro ito pled, eee ond copped to te " ee es ee 115 ten (depending on te) ated smal 1 ep Inly oped yelow onion 2 elegans red wine inager rch of hopped trogen Pct ol conense "Yc pn 2icblexpnor Sree Sy ngs 271) Jolene sett orenge removed wth zeer 1 teospon, brought foo bot in cold water sine ond ented Kosher st on tes rand ok peepee 2 relespoens suger he ott intriguing element ofthis diah the vmsto soret. great. example of reducing ard concentrating the favre an ingredient to that t becomes more intense han the erga Is ery refteaing. expecially poieed with 3 varity of cherry tomatoes (ute ss many ferent kinds a possible and the best avaiable preferably ones that are vine-ripened) ston. brioche erouton and garnished with ight rap gale nile. The gales are het the day they ae baked. They have an ietivelavorand canbe estenalone oa 3 garnish for sald This recipe makes que set. but i's dieu to mixles hater. and the excess canaaysbefroten for smother time Fox 1He Tomaro sonser Place the tomatoes ima saucepan and bring io simmer over medium heat. Cook irring often for about 45 ‘minutes, or unt the temstoe ive reduced by hal there may til bea small amount fiquid remain Mesa, het the olin skillet over low heat. Add the onions and cok gently for7 to 8 minutes, or unl ender. Place the reduced trntoes and the onions in ender and purée Vecapetranegh ave exer ond eth rund tock pepper ecu oppose te Wo teosoenttothersat -eblesgoons (2 ounces ued ba, chery fences shot Sun Gl, Set 108 elem eta a eae avg ie of other tt onde round och pepper iccund che Croton Se Vance (bose 238) 2s 0 page 146 squeeze be 2reospoan gate pose ory fe mince gh ‘hem unt very smooth, Press the misturethrougha tami (se page 73) (there willbe about cup of purée) and return tothe Bender. Add the remaining sorbet ingredient nd blend agsin. Strain through chinois (Gee page 7). There sould be about 1% cups of sorbet base col the ‘isture man iceowaterbath oi the refrigerator util cold Freethesorbet nanice-ream machine, Storetesarbetinacovered container in the Fee, Tomatosarbetis best exten the day it is made but ‘teanbe stored for up to 2 days. you wil probably have some lft ove. Fon THe Towato couLIS. Squeeze the chopped tomatoes in 3 kitchen towel to remove the excess liquid. Pace the fomatoes im 3 ender with the emsioingingredients and Mend well trsnthe cola through 2 chino. Sar, covered. inthe refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving. For THe Gantic TuIcES. Mixtogetherthe flour sugar. ard sk ina medium bowl Whisk te butter in anther bow! uni it completly smooth and mayonnaise in texture. ‘Using »siff spatula or spoon. best the egg white into the dry ingredients until completly incorporated and smooth. Whisk in theteltened butter by thirds, raping tbe aides 2 ncensaty and whisking ‘unl the hater is ereamy and without any lumps Add the gare snd Parmesan, ising unt the batter is smooth and shiny. Transfer the butter ta tlle container sit will beesierte werkt andset aside ‘The batter shouldbe used within day.anyexcessbatercan be frozen Preheat the ovento 325". Place Spat (seeSources page 31S) on hecountersnd apoonabout "Yteaspocn of the tale bate into one comer ofthe Spat. Use the Back of spoon to speead the mire int thin 20-inch round. The bater overt have toe completely even-the Spat can show theugh in sections in ft, the baked ls look more interesting there ae gps ‘hewafers, Continue oformaéitons tls. spacingthem abou! ch par. Sprinkle each le with el amount of rteary ad pry. Pace the Spt on baking set and bake for 8 6 10 minutes of tl the ules ae browned and eis, Use a small narrow spats to remove the tiles frm he pan aad re them ina airtight contin, Repesto make more tiles. orFreeetheexrabaterforanoter time. Fon THE CHERRY TomaTOEs, Blanch the tomatoes in large pot of bling lightly salted water fora few second, jst until the skin have leotened. Pee the tomato with a pring kaif. This can be doe afew hours ahead and the tomatoes kept covered at room temperature ro compirre. Ifthe sorbet every hard remove from the feeer for several minutes to soften slightly. Toss the chery tmstoes and 2 Aplenh of olive cil and seston 1 taste wih lt and pepper. Arrange & bate layer ofeherey tomatoes on each erouten and tap witha second aller layer of tomatoes, (The smount of tomatoes used wil ary secordng to thir snc) If the tomatoes are to age to balance. est 3 thin lice from he Botte or oneside of them atncesentytolep them from oping. ‘Squeeze ring of basi oil ont ech plate Fill i the center with 3 ‘spoonful of tomato coulis Carefully center tomato-topped ervton on ach pool of sauce. Set a quenelle (ee page 274. oF small soop. of Aceon top of the tomatoes, top each wih a gare ile, and serve smmedately. Vine-Ripe Tomato Sorbet with Tomato Tartare and Basil Oi | vege ome, pce, ceded nd tcp Fr dt "otooon nke i ei tuoi mice sate Vtecipoon ed wine wager "ean mee carte Gse 098238), eeu bie (Owe 0 gone 168) Temata Soe 090 St, mage wih Mandan tomatoes cr oher ne pe tametes 6 Gate Tes one 8) his tomato sorbet dish simpler to assemble than te slo of petite chery summer tmstes on page Thesorbetesnbemade ins verity avers nd colarshychangingthe ype tomate you use Ealy Giek Green Zebra, and Mandarin te jst 3 few hat work Beouly It at a very eeanMve, it alo works perfect aa plated eanapé rll by halos an interme, or palate eresherbetween courses rom tHe romaro rakrane, Toes the tomato wih » sprinkling of feu de land slow it ta dain ns trainer set over bowl fr I hour. Diseatd any quid Combine the tomato wi refrigerate fora few hours. ro compere, Pipe dots ofbleamie gla slong one side of each ering plate Places larger dot of chive olin the center af each pte ‘Top each pol of chive ol with »epoonfl of tomato tartare, pce 2 ‘quenlle (se page 274, ar small eoap of sorbet on the etre. and sprinkle with 3 Few grains of fleur de sel. Lean a garlic tile on each quenlle of sorbet and serve tamed the remsining tartare ingredient and