Hull Construction Instructions

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

1 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Kit Part Identification
Get in touch ASAP if you are missing a part Hull butt-weld braces

(number may vary, not included for one-piece hulls)

Chine (pair, may come in separate pieces)

Hull outer plates

(pair)

Optional ASPCNC intake cut out

Transom
Sides (pair)
Optional ASPCNC intake cut out

Hull keel plate

Topsides (pair) Pump cover

Windscreen capping
(not included if you have a transom step)

(typically comes in 3 pieces)

Footrest

Windscreen
Bow stringer
(typically comes in 3 pieces)

Foredeck stringers x 5
Engine bearers

Floor supports

Outer hull stringer

Foredeck intake sold separately

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

2 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Optional Kit Part Identification

Bolt-in 16mm thick intake block

(To suit ASPCNC intakes for 3.6m & 3.8m hull kits)

Weld-in 16mm thick intake block

Bench seat
(To suit ASPCNC intakes for 3m,3.3m & radius bottom hull kits)

Under-seat bulkhead

Transom step

Pump tunnel Pump cover (not included if you have a transom step)
Transom step

boxing parts (pair)

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

3 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Assemble the Hull Panels
If you have a one-piece hull bottom you can skip this page

1. Support the keel plate upside down on stands

2. Tack the rectangular weld braces to the hull outer panels at even spacings (if you tack only on one side the brace can be easily removed later)

3. Align one hull outer panel to the keel plate

4. Tack the weld braces to the keel plate and along the but join at ~100mm intervals (work from back to front)

5. Repeat for the other side

6. Tack along the front of the keel plate

7. Tack the very start of the hull outer panels together and to the front tip of the keel plate

8. Turn the hull over (leave the braces on)

Although it is shown together here, the bow is not together at this stage

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

4 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Transom
1. Tack the transom on working from the centre out to the chines

The transom should be vertical and centred on the hull

The inside face of the transom aligns with the CNC marked line (lines might be marked on underside of hull).

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

5 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Pull the Bow Together
1. Measure across the hull as shown below

2. Ensure your hull is the width shown in the table shown below

3. Weld a temporary brace across the hull as shown to hold the hull to the correct width (this brace can be made from anything that is reasonably strong)

4. Ensure the engine bearer assembly can fit under the brace

5. Support the hull under the chines with stands all the same height so the hull sits without a twist

6. Put a clamp across the tips of the hull outer panels & begin too pull them together

7. Tack the hull outer plates together as you pull the bow together (work from back to front)

8. Cut the clamp tabs off the tips of the bow once bow is together (cut along the marked line)

Temporary brace

3m 1267mm
3.3m 1325mm
3.6m 1456mm
3.8m 1552mm

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

6 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Assemble the Engine Bearer Assembly
1. Cut off all router tabs and de-burr all sharp edges (use a grinder & a hand held de-burrer tool)

2. Assemble the parts as shown below on a flat workbench or floor

3. Clamp the parts down so the assembly is flat and square

4. Weld the parts together from the underside (leave the top side un-welded)

5. Repeat for the other side

The end of the stringers coincide

with the inside face of the transom

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

7 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Install the Hull Structure
1. Tack the engine bearer assemblies into the hull

1. Work from back to front ensuring no gap along the flat section of hull

2. The curved bow section will have a bit of unavoidable gap (~5-15mm)

3. Stop welding when the gap gets to big (last~200mm at the front)

2. Tack the footrest in place

1. The footrest is installed at the end of the engine bearers

2. Push the bow vee in or out to get a perfect match with the footrest (this helps to shape the bow correctly)

3. Tack in the bow stringer in the position shown

460mm apart (measure between inside faces of engine bearers)

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

8 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the Chines
1. Tack the separate chine pieces together if required

2. Tack the transom end of the chine to the folded chine on the hull outer panel

3. Tack the chine on from this end to the tip (the bottom edge of the hull outer panel and chine should be perfectly aligned)

Don't trim the tips if they don’t fit, break the tacks and try agin

© Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

9 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
 Assemble ASPCNC Intake (if you are using one, this guide assumes the faces are all machined flat)
Pump adaptor
1. Clamp pump adaptor to intake so centre holes line up & adaptor bolt holes are parallel with the foot of the intake (horizontal plane)

2. Drill and tap the intake for the four M10 (or similar) to hold the adaptor on (its easy to get these a bit off if your not careful to drill vertically)

3. Smooth any sharp edges between intake and adaptor if required (once bolted on)

Bearing/seal
1. Clamp the through hull bearing/seal assembly on to the intake. Take care to align with the centre of the pump so the drive shaft is not offset.

2. Drill and tap for M8 bolts or equivalent to bolt the assembly on.

Grill
1. Clamp the grill to the intake using the digram below

2. Drill two 8mm holes at the front though the grill & intake. The location for the holes is shown
below.

3. Drill two 7mm holes at the back through the grill & intake.

4. Remove the grill & drill the 7mm holes in the grill out to 8mm. Countersink the holes on the
bottom of the grill for M8 bolts.

5. Tap the two back holes in the intake to M8.

6. Bolt the grill on

Intake block
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

536.0
1. Clamp four intake block pieces on

36.0
2. Vee a groove in at each butt-joint for welding & weld the joins

3. Grind welds flush and flip block over and re-clamp

4. Vee, weld the joins & grind flush

252.0
35.0 25.0

5. Drill 5-6 8mm holes per side through the intake block & intake
B

6. Countersink the bottom of the intake block holes & bolt it on

36.0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Use anti-seise on all the bolts

A A

19.0 19.0
19.0

B B
180.0

25mm thick Jetblock

D
35.0
19.0

C C

19.0 19.0
182.0
252.0

476.0 34.0 24.0

25mm thick Jetblock cutout dimensions

E 478.0
35.0

D D
25.0

438.0 142.0
536.0
Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
476.0
180.0
Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
10 REV DESCRIPTION DATE BY Project:
NOTES: 1. REFER TO CAD DATA FOR FULL GEOMETRY DETAILS DRAWN: SP

4 x M8 bolts recomended for grill mounting

F 2.
3.
JetBlock cutout DATE:
SIZE:
16-3-17
NA 4 C Settlers cres
www.asp

E Ferrymead
4. E SCALE: Not to scale Christcurch
New Zealand
PH +64 3
ASPCNC intake (with pre-cut holes)
Weld in intake (3m, 3.3m & radius hulls) Bolt-in intake (3.6m, 3.8m & 4.5m hulls)
1. Tack the intake block to the hull with the bottom face flush 1. Trim the intake cutout as shown below

with the underside of the hull

2. Bolt the intake and block to the hull plate

2. Sandwich the transom between the intake & adaptor. 3. Sandwich the transom between the intake & adaptor.
Tighten the 4 x M10 bolts down once the transom is tacked Tighten the 4 x M10 bolts down once the transom is tacked
in place
in place (next page)

Trim along these marked lines to complete intake cutout in hull

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
11 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the Sides
1. Tack the side on from the transom to the front
2. Repeat with the other side

Do not trim the panels otherwise

the rest of the topsides wont fit
Tack every ~100mm
Align the inner edges of the side & transom

Align the side panel with the centre

of the CNC marked line exactly

C-clamps are useful to pull up & hold the panel towards the front end Align the inner edges of the side & hull panel
Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
12 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the topsides
1. Clamp the buG-join together with small pieces of aluminium on the back to hold the panels parallel while tacking
2. Tack the buG-join with three good tacks on either side
3. Pull the topside panel up and in to align the edges at the beginning of the join, do the first tack 50-100mm along the join
4. AOer the first tack it should be much easier, tack every ~100mm

Do not trim the panels otherwise

the foredeck wont fit

Tack this join nice & parallel

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

13 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the foredeck
1. Place the windscreen upside down on a surface that wont scratch it or melt/burn during welding
2. Weld the foredeck stringers on (5-7 ~20mm sTtch welds on both sides)
3. Add steering column or any other parts that will be a pain to do with the windscreen up the right way
4. Slide the foredeck in between gunnels as show below
5. The inner edge of the foredeck & topsides should coincide Weld fast at correct amps to avoid welds showing through on the other side
6. Tack from back to front every ~100mm
7. Weld & finish the join shown flush before adding the windscreen blocks access

Weld stringers on CNC marked lines

or just ~230mm spacing between stringers
Leave ~25mm gap between edge of panel & end of stringer
(not up to edge as shown)

Weld & grind this join before the windscreen gets in the way

Use a prybar/screwdriver to align edges as you go, this may require

reasonable force.
Tack each side evenly as you work forward to avoid forcing the foredeck to one side too much
Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
14 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the windscreen
1. Weld the windscreen capping piece together
2. Weld the windscreen pieces together
3. Transfer centreline mark to front of windscreen
4. Mark centre line of boat on the foredeck
5. Mark centreline on capping
6. Place screen in posiTon
7. Tack screen to foredeck in the centre
8. Tack screen every ~50mm working around both sides evenly
9. Align windscreen capping lower edge to windscreen outer edge
10. Make sure both centre marks align & tack at the centre
11. Tack screen every ~50mm working around both sides evenly
12. MIG weld the screen to hull join
13. TIG or MIG weld the screen to capping join
14. Grind screen to hull join with a corse curved flap disc
15. Grind capping join with corse flap disc
16. Finish both joins with a corse blending disc

Clamp to a flat backing plate to

keep plates parallel at buG-joint.
Grind & finish join before installing on
boat for best access.

Align the alignment notches on the boGom edges

of the windscreen with the transverse joins between
the top of the side panel & the foredeck.

+
Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
15 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Complete the remaining welding in this order
We recommend the Helvi machines as affordable single phase machines
1. Check the hull is square & not twisted
2. Weld the engine bearers to the keel plate (~150mm sTtch welds every ~150mm on both sides)
3. Weld the outer stringers to the outer hull panels (~150mm sTtch welds every ~150mm on both sides)
4. Weld the floor support ends to the hull outers
5. Weld the boGom of the transom inside & out
6. Weld the intake-block on inside of hull (if applicable)
7. Weld the centre bow stringer
8. Weld the footrest
9. Weld the joins between the keel plate & hull outers
10. Weld the foredeck to the topsides
11. Tip the boat over & support the boat so it is not twisted
1. Weld the join between the sides and the hull plates
2. Weld up the centre bow join MIG TIG
3. Weld the intake block (if applicable)
4. Back-gouge the buG-joins between the keel plate & hull outers (be careful!)
5. Weld the joins between the keel plate & hull outers
6. Do all the grinding etc on the boGom so you don’t have to flip it over agin (see next page)
12. Tip the boat on one side (opTonal)
1. Weld the inside of the transom closest to the floor
2. Weld the outside of the transom closest to the roof
3. Weld the topside to side panel join closest to the roof
5056 grade filler for 5052/83/86 grade aluminium
13. Tip the boat on the other side (opTonal)
1. Weld the inside of the transom closest to the floor Any buG-welds that do not have a suitable groove for
2. Weld the outside of the transom closest to the roof adequate penetraTon will benefit from this preparaTon.
3. Weld the topside to side panel join closest to the roof
4. Weld the inside of the side panel join closest to the floor
14. Tip the boat back on to the other side (opTonal)
1. Weld the inside of the side panel join closest to the floor
15. Tip the boat back upright
16. Weld all remaining joins inside the hull

Weld symmetrically from back to front to balance weld stress across the hull

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

16 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Grind hull

Grind with the join not across it for best results

When using wax to grind back you will contaminate the aluminium a bit
so do this when the vast majority of your welding in the area is done

Use a short hand held straight edge with the blending disc to get Tdy edges

Corse sanding flap disc (40 or 60 grit) Any old wax Corse blending flap disc
Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
17 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
UHMWPE PlasTc
Plastic stinks and expands with heat. Install the plastic warm so it shrinks on.

Direct sun or heating the whole hull with a diesel heater works well.

Work symmetrically from back to front with bolts to “spread” the plastic on

75mm centres, make sure nuts will clear centre stringer

150mm centres, make sure nuts will clear centre stringer

100mm centres, make sure nuts will clear engine bearer

50mm centres around intake, make sure nuts will clear intake and transom

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

18 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the opTonal rear step
1. Weld the outside vertical fillet joins between hull & transom (tipping the boat over so the there are horizontal helps)

2. Tack the pump tunnel on to the main step piece

3. Tack this main step assembly to the sides & transom

4. Tack the part for the wings on to complete the transom

5. If you are going to grind back the outside corner joints on the step make sure you have good
penetration on your welds as the back is not welded

Outside fillet joins

Pump tunnel

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

19 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Add the opTonal bench seat
1. Wait until the motor etc is installed to weld/bolt in seat

2. Slide seat in between sides back to the front of the engine (Leave enough gap in front so engine can be lifted out)

Fully weld around this join (TIG looks good)

The top can just push against the seat

with rubber strip in between.

Roughly 4 small stitch welds for the vertical

& horizontal join to the side

(MIG good to limit warping)

Bolt under seat bulkhead to the floor.

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017
20 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits
Complete & install the finger throGle assembly
1. Bolt the assembly between the steering column & the steering wheel

2. Test fit the finger trigger

1. Workout the position & angle of the finger lever

2. Carefully work-out & mark where to drill the 6mm grubscrew locating hole in the shaft (the hole is already drilled in the cable lever end, copy this one)

3. Work out how much excess length to cut off the 8mm shaft

4. Remove the shaft from the assembly

3. Drill the grubscrew locating hole in the shaft in the correct position for you steering wheel. (use a vee block & a drill press ideally)

4. Cut the excess 8mm shaft off & tidy cut end

5. Reassemble the shaft & tighten the grub screws into their locating holes

6. Use the supplied bolt-on 6mm barrel nipple to install your throttle cable into the cable lever

Shaft needs to be trimmed to length

to suit steering wheel

Cable lever
8mm shaft

Finger lever

Copyright WattsCraft Ltd 2017

21 Document version 2, Late 2017 kits