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Choosing a higher percentage enlarges what you see on the screen, which can be
useful for reading small text or seeing more detail in embedded pictures, but will
probably mean that you'll have farther to scroll (vertically and possibly also
horizontally) to travel through the entire document.
Choosing a smaller percentage reduces the size of everything, which can be helpful
if you need to "step back" to look at how the document looks on the page, and will
mean that you won't have to scroll as far to get to the end of the document.
Word offers standard choices like 50%, 75%, 100%, 125%, 150%, and you can
also type in any integer value you choose between 10% and 500%.
Also, don't confuse this with the Scale or Scaling percentage you may be able to
choose when printing your document (or when adjusting the settings in Page Setup
in preparation for printing), depending on the type and model of printer you use.
That only affects how the document prints, not how it looks on-screen.
How to make the on-screen display match the size of the printout
This technique should work in any program that can display an on-screen ruler,
including Word, Excel, PowerPoint, OpenOffice, etc.
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12/1/2018 Microsoft Word: How to see your document "life-size" on screen (hint: it's not 100%) (8/30/2016)
Open any document in Microsoft Word (or the program of your choice).
Show (View) the on-screen Ruler if it is not already visible.
Maximize your document window (making it as wide as you can) to make the
most use of your screen.
Take a real-life ruler and hold it up to the on-screen Ruler. Be careful not to
scratch your screen, especially if your ruler has any sharp metal corners or
edges.
If a real-life inch is larger than an on-screen inch, increase the on-screen
magnification.
If a real-life inch is smaller than an on-screen inch, decrease the on-screen
magnification.
For the best accuracy, compare the width of as many inches as you can
(e.g., 5 or 10 or 12 inches, depending on the size of your monitor), not just
one.
Keep adjusting the on-screen magnification up or down as appropriate, and
then compare the real-life and on-screen rulers again. You will probably find
that the standard choices like 125% will only get you somewhat close, so
you'll have to type in specific percentages like 113% or 83%. Repeat until
the rulers match as closely as you can get them.
As you compare the rulers, I recommend moving your head so that your line
of sight is always perpendicular to the screen. If you're looking at an angle,
your ruler comparison will be off.
When you've got the two rulers as close to the same size as possible, write
down the percentage you arrived at. That's the "magic number" that will
make your documents look life-size on your screen.
Print the first page of the document and hold it up to the screen display of
that same document. The two should be very close in size.
On two of my computers, here are the numbers that this technique gives me:
An alternate approach
If your program has the ability to display the document on-screen with a "virtual
piece of paper" behind it (in Word this is called the "Print Layout" or "Page Layout"
view), and if your computer monitor is at least as wide as a real-life piece of paper,
then try this simpler technique:
Instead of a real-life ruler, take a real-life piece of paper (for example, a sheet of
8.5" x 11"), compare its width to the width of the on-screen "paper" displayed
behind your document's text, and then adjust the on-screen magnification up or
down until their widths are the same. If your document is formatted in Portrait
mode, use the real-life paper's shorter edge; if it's a Landscape document, use the
longer edge. Be sure to make your document window as wide as you can so you
can see the full width of the on-screen "paper."
This will save the document along with its current magnification so that when you
reopen it, it should display at that new magnification.
Why doesn't 100% magnification on screen just match the printed size?
It's complicated. The simplest explanation is that the operating system assumes
that it knows how text and pictures are displayed on your screen, including the
number of dots per inch (DPI). However, your monitor's actual DPI is probably
larger (or sometimes smaller, depending on your hardware), which results in the
reduction (or enlargement) that my technique above compensates for. I don't
know why the operating system can't just get the right number to begin with.
For example, on my Toshiba Windows laptop, the operating system assumes that
my monitor has 96 dots per inch (DPI). However, my laptop's screen is 13.5" wide
and fits 1,366 pixels into that width, so its actual DPI is 1,366 dots / 13.5" = 101
DPI. So, the correction is 101 / 96 = 1.05 or 105%.
On a regular basis I write about real issues faced by typical computer users. To
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anyone else, nor do I rent it out.
I love helping people learn how to use their computers better! Like a "computer
driving instructor," I work 1-on-1 with small business owners and individuals to
help them find a more productive and successful relationship with their computers
and other high-tech gadgets.
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