Top 10

Router Table Tips

Thirty years ago, when I first mounted
a router under a small table, I was
amazed at how much more versa-
tile my router was. And now, several
router table designs later, I rarely
take on a woodworking project that
doesn’t involve at least a quick stop
at the router table.
As I was thinking about all the dif-
ferent ways we make use of our router
table and all the tips our readers have
sent in over the years, I thought it
might be a good idea to come up with
a list of our favorite router table tips. So
here they are — some of our best.

CUTTING PROFILES WITH TEMPLATES

When making several curved pieces
that are identical, I create a 1⁄4" hard-
board template and use a flush trim
bit (margin photo). This way, I can
rough out the shape with the band
saw and clean it up with the router.
It’s quick, easy, and I have a pattern
that can be used again and again.
But curved pieces aren’t the only
{ To make curved
pieces that are 1 2
identical, I use
a hardboard
template and a
flush trim bit.
thing a template and a flush trim bit
are good for. They can be helpful with
making straight cuts too.
For instance, when working on a
base that has two profiles connected
by a straight edge, I have a procedure
that ensures a perfectly straight line.
First, I rough out the straight line
with a band saw. Then I attach a
straight template with double-sided
tape flush with the layout line, as
shown in Figure 1. Now the flush trim
bit can clean up the edge (Figure 2).
You do have to stop short of the
profile though — the bearing won’t
let you rout tight into a corner. But
the template will also help guide your
chisel as you clean up the corner.

ROUTER BIT INSERTS

The problem with router table fences a.
is that the opening for the bit is often
much too wide for smaller bits. Long
pieces get hung up on the outfeed
edge. And there just isn’t enough sup-
port to rout small pieces safely.
One solution is to add a hardboard
insert to the fence (shown at right).
To begin, rout a shallow mortise in
the fence around the bit opening to
match the size and thickness of the a bit without a bearing (like a straight bearing gets in the way. First, you
inserts you plan to use. (Allow enough bit), I turn on the router and raise the have to cut a clearance slot in the
room to screw the insert in place.) spinning bit into the insert. insert, like you see in detail ‘a’ above.
Now you can make a custom insert Profile bits (like roundover bits) Then you can raise the bit to create
for each bit. To cut the insert profile for require an extra step because the the profile in the insert.
RUB ARM
I often rout a full roundover along
the edges of a workpiece, whether
it’s a piece of molding or the top of a
table. But this procedure isn’t quite as
straightforward as you might expect.
The problem is with the bit’s
guide bearing. The first pass isn’t a
problem. There’s plenty of surface
for the bearing to ride against. But
when you flip the piece over to com-
plete the roundover, there’s nothing
for the bearing to ride against. And
the bit cuts a shoulder instead of a
smooth roundover, like you see in
the upper margin drawing.
Normally, the solution is simple. I
use the fence to guide the workpiece.
USING A RUB ARM . But what about
when the piece is curved? Here, I use
a rub arm, as shown at right. It acts
as a substitute bearing surface, and
when installed, it rubs against the
centerpoint of the workpiece (detail
‘a’). This prevents the bit from remov-
ing too much stock.
CONSTRUCTION. To make a rub arm,
start with a piece of 1⁄4" hardboard
COMBINATION SQUARE SETUP
When it comes time to set up the
router table, I’ve found a good combi-
nation square is the fastest and most
accurate tool for getting the job done.
Bit Height. I start by setting the
height of the bit. The combination
square works best here because it sits
flat against the top of the router table
(Figure 1). Simply flush the edge of
the ruler to the bottom edge of the
handle. Then set the ruler next to the
bit. It’s best to get your eye level with
the bit, so you can be sure its tip lines
up with the mark on the ruler.
1 2
Set ruler
flush with
handle
and cut a notch wide enough to fit
around the bearing. Then glue a base
piece under the arm, see drawing.
Even though the notch is wide
enough, it still may not fit around the
bearing — the bit’s cutting edge may
be in the way because the rub arm
fits around the bit below the bear-
ing (detail ‘a’). If so, you’ll have to
a.
Fence Position. Next, I work on set-
ting the fence the right distance from
the router bit. Here, a drill bit can
come in handy, as in the lower margin
photo. But a combination square will
work well too. To use it, I measure to
the far side of the bit by extending
the ruler and setting it against the bit,
as you can see in Figure 2.
The trick here is to hold the square
and rotate the bit so its cutting edge just
“ticks” the edge of the ruler. Then you
can carefully shift the router fence up
against the ruler and tighten it down.
NOTE:
Measure to
far edge
of bit
rout the profile inside the notch. Just
turn on the router and feed the arm
into the bit. Then after the router is
turned off, align the front of the arm
flush with the bearing and clamp it
to the table (detail ‘a’).
Now that the rub arm is installed,
full roundovers can be routed without
creating any unwanted shoulder.
{ When routing
a full roundo-
ver, the second
pass can leave
an unwanted
shoulder.
Stop Block. If I’m making a stopped
cut, I’ll also use a combination
square to set the stop block, as
you can see in Figure 3. To do this,
set the ruler to the length needed.
(Again this is to the far edge of the
bit.) Now place the flat edge of the
square handle against the bit. Just
like before, the trick is to make sure
the handle is resting against the tip { A drill bit can
of the cutting edge on the bit. make a handy
Clamp the stop block to the fence gauge when it’s
at the end of the ruler. Then make a time to set the
test cut to check the setup. router fence.
3
NOTE:
Stop Set square to
block desired length
 ROUTER FENCE MICRO-ADJUSTER
Fine-tuning a router fence
can be a hassle. It’s hard
to see how much you’re
adjusting the fence, and
there’s no measuring tape
like there is on a table saw.
Plus, it’s easy to “bump” the
fence too hard (or not quite
hard enough) so that a sim-
ple setup takes several test
passes before it’s right.
To solve this, I made a
micro-adjuster that can be
REFERENCE MARK
To make adjustment,
loosen clamp
Make mark before
adjusting fence
a.
Fence
Pencil
mark
{ When fine-tuning the router fence,
it’s hard to judge how much it’s
actually moving. So to make the
adjustments easy to see, I make a
reference mark beside the fence.
ROUTER PUSH BLOCK
When using a router table without
a miter gauge slot, a push block is
essential. It keeps pieces square and
helps reduce chipout.
One push block I like starts out as
a rectangular piece of 3⁄4" plywood.
Then I add a hand hold to the top of
the block flush with the front edge
(detail ‘a’). And I cut away part of the
plywood behind the hand hold.
Finally, I add a simple 3⁄4" dowel
as a push handle. To keep the stock
from slipping, I attach a strip of sand-
paper to the front edge.
clamped to the edge of the
table top behind my router
fence, as you can see in the
photo here. The adjuster
isn’t connected to the fence
in any way (so you can use
it with just about any type
of router fence). Instead the
micro-adjuster simply push-
es the fence forward (or acts
as a stop that you can push
the fence against). When using the micro- by turning the adjuster. (If
What makes the whole adjuster, roughly position you need to back off the
thing work is a hex bolt that the fence and clamp the bolt, the fence will need to
runs through a common T- adjuster to the table. Then be pushed back against it.)
nut in the block, as shown with the opposite end of Once the router fence is in
in Figure 1 below. A wing the fence tightened, you the right position, simply
nut makes the bolt easier to can fine-tune its position clamp it down.
turn, and a spring keeps ten-
sion on the bolt and prevents a. Bolt pushes
fence SECTION
it from vibrating loose. VIEW
Clamp
1 Fence
T-nut Spring
Fence
#/8" T-nut #/8"
#/8" x 4" washers
hex bolt
Hex nut
Adjustable Wing nut
block
Compression NOTE: Clamp
spring block to table
a.
ROUTING SMALL PIECES
When routing small pieces on a
router table, how do you keep the
workpiece from tipping into the
large hole in the table?
The first thing I do is add an aux-
iliary table made from hardboard, as
shown at right. In the center of the
hardboard, I drill a hole that’s slightly
larger than the exposed part of the bit.
To secure the auxiliary table, I slide it
under the router fence (though you
can just clamp it down).
When routing the piece, I also hold
it with a wood hand clamp. This way,
my hands are never close to the bit.

DEEP GROOVES & DADOES

When routing, I don’t like
to remove more than 1⁄4" of
material with each pass. So
if there’s a deep groove or
dado to rout, it has to be done
in two or more passes.
The problem with this is
that raising the bit between
passes can cause problems.
With non-plunge routers,
you will usually have some
play in the height adjust-
ment mechanism. This
means that each time the
height is changed, the bit
isn’t in the exact same posi-
tion it was before. So the
groove can end up with one
or more steps, as you can
see in the photo at right.
The good news is you
don’t have to buy a plunge
router. Instead of changing
the height of the bit, change
the height of the workpiece.
To do this, I set the bit to cut
the full depth of the groove.
Then I use a 1⁄4"-thick spac-
er to “raise” the workpiece,
as shown in Figure 1.
My spacer is 1⁄4" hard-
board with a clearance
opening cut for the bit.
And to make it easy to
secure, I added a hard-
wood cleat to each end.
Now with the spacer in
place, the first pass will be
a shallow one (Figure 1a.)
To cut to full depth, remove { After changing the height
the spacer and take anoth- of a bit, some routers may
er pass (Figure 1b). leave a small step.
HAND-HELD GROOVES & DADOES

1 Hardboard
When making deep cuts with a
NOTE:
spacer hand-held router, you can end up
Bit set to
final depth with the same “steps” as you do on
a router table (photo above). But
the solution is also the same.
Again, the bit starts out at full
depth, as in Figure 1. Then I
carpet-tape one or more auxiliary
Cleat
base plates to the bottom of the
router. (I have two 1⁄8" hardboard
plates and a thinner plastic lami-
nate plate.) After each pass, you
take off one of the plates. Then
when the laminate is removed,
you’ll end up with a final skim pass
that leaves a clean cut.

1 2
FIRST a. b. Set bit to
PASS SECOND final depth !/16"
PASS laminate

!/8"
hard- Carpet
board tape
Spacer Spacer
removed
CENTERING WITH A V-GROOVE BIT
When cutting grooves, The first thing to do is a. Position point
there are times when they to mount a V-groove bit in of V-groove
Centered bit on drawer
need to be centered per- the router and raise it just groove centerline
fectly on the width of the about even with the table,
workpiece. For instance, as you can see in Figure
I’ve run into this when rout- 1a. Since this bit comes to Straight
bit must be V-groove
ing stopped grooves for a point, it’s easy to line it up centered on bit
drawer guides, as you can accurately with the center- workpiece
see in Figure 1 at right. line on the workpiece.
In this case, trying to lay With the fence in posi- b.
NOTE: Don't
out a centered groove can tion, the V-groove bit adjust fence
be a real challenge — the can be replaced with the when mounting
straight bit
numbers don’t usually straight bit you plan to use
work out cleanly. Instead, to rout the grooves, as in Straight
bit
I draw a centerline along Figure 1b. (Remember not
the workpiece and use a to adjust the router fence.)
simple two-step method for Now you’re ready to rout
setting up the bit. the groove in the piece.