CHAPTER 16 Ne et 4 | oe Be 78 ‘i elt aay aMping; ee : adhesive ] clamp cleat double spread lamination single spread trial assembly 1 YOULE BE ABLE-TO> Pre recworer ie gore vee Ce Cee eee al i eer gi Tae eae es © Prepare alaminate folk wood project. One eo ee ee ‘ us) : - The term “gluing” means to assemble parts with adhesive (glue). Fig. 16-1. An adhesive 5 a substance used to hold other materials together. Clamps are holding tools often used to hold glued materials together while the adhesive cures (sets) Fig, 16-1--A variety of adhesives are used in wood working. Using the proper adhesive and gluing ochniques can make joints that are stronger than ‘he wood itselt Chapter 16 Gluing and Clampingml 236 GLUING Two pieces of wood are held together with an adhesive because of adhesion. Adhesion, or bonding, is a combining, or uniting, force that develops between the adhesive and the wood. During the gluing process, an adhesive is applied to adjoining wood surfaces. The adhesive soaks into the wood. The molecules of the adhesive surround the natural wood fibers. When the surfaces are held together, the adhesive's molecules lock into each other. This links the surrounded fibers together as the adhesive cures and hardens. Kinds of Adhesives Nine kinds of adhesives are commonly used in woodworking. Tubie 10-4. They are available under many different trade names. > Handling Adhesives Safely + Always wear a charcoal-filtered respira- tor to protect your lungs from fumes when using adhesives. + Be sure the filters in the respirator + Work in a well-ventilated area. * Read and follow all safety instructions on the package. Some solvent-based adhesives can explode under certain conditions. Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping White Liquid-Resin Glue White liquid-resin (polyvinyl) glue is a general all-purpose glue. It is considered by some to be the hobbyist’s glue. This glue works well for small woodworking projects. It is always ready for use and is nonstaining, economical, and odorless. However, itis not moisture resi tant and will not hold in products exposed to weather. SCENE Chemical Structure of Resorcinol} Chemically, resorcinol is a fairly sim- ple substance. Its molecular formula is CyH,O,. This means that a molecule of resorcinol contains 6 carbon (C) atoms, 6 hydrogen (H) atoms, and 2 oxygen (0) atoms. The carbon and hydrogen atoms form a hexagon known as a benzene ring. A diagram of the molecular structure is shown below. Each point on the hexagon represents a carbon atom. One hydrogen atom is attached to each carbon atom. ‘Two of the carbon atoms in resorcinol share hydrogen atoms with the oxygen atoms to form OH atoms. 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It is much like the white glue described previously. A yellow dye is added to it to show that the two are different. Like the white glue, yellow liquid-resin glue has high bonding strength, sets rapidly, and is easy to clean up. However, it has greater mois- ture resistance and tack (stickiness) and better sandability. This glue becomes unusable in a relatively short time when stored. Resorcinol Resorcinol is made by mixing liquid resin with a powder catalyst. It comes in a can divided into two compartments. This glue should be mixed only as needed. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. This glue does not require much pressure when curing. It will fill gaps and can be used for gluing poorly fitted joints. It pro- vides complete protection from both fresh and salt water. Urea-Resin Adhesive Urea-resin adhesive is made from urea resin and formaldehyde. It comes in powder form and is mixed with water to the thickness of cream, It does not stain woods, is waterproof, and dries to a light color. The manufacturer’s directions must always be followed for mixing and curing. Urea-resin adhesive is very good for cabinetwork and for bonding plywood. Hide Glue Hide (animal) glue is made from hoofs, hides, bones, and other animal parts. It is refined and purified, and then formed into flakes or prepared in liquid form, Hide glue makes a stronger-than-wood joint, but it is not waterproof. It has long been used as an all-purpose furniture glue. If used dry, a glue pot or double boiler is needed to prepare it. The liquid form does not need to be heated or mixed 238 chopror 16. Gluing and Clamping Contact Cement Contact cement is a ready-mixed, rubber-type bonding agent. It bonds practically all like materials and combinations of materials. There is no need for clamps, nails, or pressure. See Chapter 18 for more information. Epoxy Cement Epoxy cement sticks to most materials including wood, plastics, leather, metal, and ceramics. It comes in two containers. One holds a special resin and the other a chemical hardener. These are mixed together at the time of use. It produces strong, waterproof joints without clamping. Polyurethane Adhesive Polyurethane adhesive is a water-resistant prod- uct common in woodworking shops and used for many applications. It expands as it cures, giving it excellent gap-filling ability. Curing improves with exposure to moisture. Pieces to be joined should be moistened slightly if assembly will take place under unusually dry conditions. Various formulas are available. Hot-Melt Glue Hot-melt glues ate good for use on small areas. ‘They are supplied in stick or chunk form for use with an electric glue gun, Fig. 16-2 Using a Glue Gun + The tip of a glue gun becomes very hor. Do not touch it. + Allow glued surfaces to cool before touching them with your hands.Fig, 16-2—Using a hot-melt glue gun. (A) Insert glue stick in gun. (8) Open flow control valve by tapp. nozzle. (C) Apply the glue. (D) Press glued surfaces together tor 20 seconds. To use a glue gun, follow these steps 1. Make sure that the flow-control valve in the gun tip is closed. 2. Insert a hot-melt glue stick into the gun. Plug in the cord and allow about three minutes for the gun to heat. 4. Clean the surface to be glued. Soften the end of another glue stick on the hot tip of the gun. Insert this stick into the gun. The softened end will fuse with the stick already in the gun. 5. Open the flow-control valve by tapping the valve pin against any hard surface. 7. Feed the glue onto the work by p the glue stick with your thumb, 8. Press the glued pieces together for < imately 20 seconds. Gluing Tips + Work in a well-ventilated area + Make tight-fitting joints. + Make sure the surfaces are clean and + Choose the correct glue for the job. + Mix the glue to proper thickness, Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping* Mark the pieces for correct assembly, + Have the proper clamps ready. + Apply the glue to both surfaces of the joint. + Remove extra glue before it sets, + Allow plenty of time for glue in the assembly to set. CLAMPING GLUED WORKPIECES ‘When choosing clamps, consider the size and shape of the pieces and the amount of pressure needed for successful bonding. Remember that most clamps apply direct pressure to a small area, The jaws of the clamp could mar the surface to which it’s attached. To avoid this, you may need to place scrap wood pieces or other protective material or pads between the surface and the clamp's jaws. Hig, 16-3 Kinds of Clamps Several kinds of clamps can be used to hold glued pieces together while the adhesive cures. The most common ones are described below. Bar Clamps The bar clamp (cabinet clamp) is used when gluing up large surfaces edge to edge and for clamping parts together during assembly. Fig. 16-4. It is made in lengths from 2 to 10 pie SLIDE openine rete teteET 7 PAWL aor E240 Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping Fig, 16:3—Plastic bar clamp pads sip onto the faces of bar and pipe clamps. They provide a protective cushion between the finished wood and the metal of the jaw clamps. feet and in several styles. One end is adjusted to length by friction or by a paw! (movable jaw), The other end is moved in and out by a screw. When using a bar clamp, turn the screw out completely. Then move in the pawl or friction end until the clamp is slightly wider than the total width of the stock to be clamped. Fig, 16.4—Parts of a bar clamp. SCREW /- Vaeane 3) crank — HANDLEWhen using bar clamps on finished stock, Pipe Clamps protect the surface of the wood. Place small pieces of scrap stock between the clamp jaws and the wood or put plastic pads on the clamp itself, Speed bar clamps are very convenient to use. They can be adjusted instantly for quick Pipe clamps are made with either a sing or double pipes. ig. 16-6. The clamy that fit the steel pipe are purchased so t clamps can be made to any length. Bot of double pipe clamps apply equal pres stock being glued up. assembly. Fig. 1055, Hand Screws — Hand screws are wooden parallel clamp: ————— 6 to 20 inches long. They open from ¢ . inches. Fig. 10-7, Fig, 16-5—Speed bar clamp. Zh | Fig. 16-7—incorreet and correct ways of clam with hand screws. The clamps in the top phe Fig. 16-6—Pipe clamps are mae with single or Graph ave not parallel. Thay will not apply B. ouble pipes, Shown here are single-pipe clamps. orreetly. Chapter 16 Gluing and ClampingWhen using hand screws, hold the center serew in one hand and the outside screw in the other hand. Open and close the clamp by twisting the handles in opposite directions. The hand screw is used for gluing stock face to face. It is also used for clamping together any work that is within the size range of the clamp jaws. C-Clamps A C-clamp resembles the letter “C.” Fiz. | C-clamps come in many sizes. The size is the maximum width of the opening between the Jaws. One jaw is moved by turning the screw handle. ‘This jaw swivels to fit flat against irregularly shaped pieces or slanted surfaces. Spring Clamps Spring clamps are easy to use. Some types have pivoting jaws made of stainless steel with ne —_/ Fig, 16.8—C-clamp. Fig, 16:9—Spring clamp. M242 Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping double rows of serrated teeth along the pres- sure edge. Those toothed jaws hold the surface of parts so that miter joints and other oddly shaped pieces can be held together. #y. 16-9. Edging Clamps An edging clamp is designed to hold moldings, veneer, and laminates to the edge of a work- piece. It has three screws. There is a screw at the top and at the bottom of the jaw opening. An additional screw tightens in from the side. ig. 16-10. Band Clamps A band clamp (web clamp) is a nylon strap that tightens around projects. It is used to glue up multisided projects such as a chair Lol frame. Fix, USED AS CONVENTIONAL ‘¢-CLAMP FOR EDGE GLUING Fig, 16-10-—E:ging clamp.Fig. 16-11—Band clamp. Clamping Tips + Dry-clamp all your workpieces before gluing. This will help you make sure the joints fit properly and that you have enough clamps for the job. * Before final gluing up and clamping, mark the adjoining pieces with matching numbers of lines to show how they should go together for assembly. *When gluing edge to edge, alternate bar clamps—one above, one below, every 10 to 15 inches—to prevent buckling. * Use cauls (small pieces of scrap wood) between clamp jaws and the wood surface to prevent metal jaw faces from marring the surface. *Don't apply too much pressure. This will force the glue out of the joint, causing a weak joint. Clamp down until the pieces are snug, but not too tight. WOODWORKI ‘TIP Dust It Off itis normal for some glue to squee suhen you clamp 3 wood joint, Th s difficuit to remove once it has One way to blot up the freshly squ qlue 15 to use sawdust, Put coarsi he joint and then wipe rape it up immediately. Then sp just on some fine sawdust on the joint. Ri fine sawdust into the area to pick 1 remaining glue. Again, wipe or immediately. MAKING EDGE JOINTS The edge joint is one of the most cor used joints in woodworking. Edges are glued together to form a single pie a larger face surface. Preparing the Stock Select pieces of stock that will form th surface. Pieces wider than 8 to 10 should be ripped into narrower stri the strips glued together. Doing this warping and results in a stronger piec cutting the pieces, arrange them in th rect order. Remember the following: * Make sure that the grain of all piec in only one direction. Planing will be after the parts are ghued. Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping» Using a Band Saw + Keep your fingers away from the blade. + All needed guards should be in place. + Wear eye protection. For further safety information about using the band saw, see Chapter 24 Sand very lightly with fine paper to remove saw marks, if necessary. It is recommended that you apply a thin coat of flexible material such as rubber or plastic to both sides of the form. Doing this produces a better rough lamination. If rubber is used, it should be tacked onto the form. The surface should then be cov- ered with wax. Laminating: > mmm 248 Cut several pieces of veneer. They should be large enough and thick enough when combined to make the project. One type of dark wood, such as mahogany or wal- nut, may be used. The layers might be alternated with a lighter wood, such as birch or maple, for contrast. Select a good-quality glue. Spread the glue evenly on both sides of each piece used for the inside layers and the inside faces of the two outside layers of veneer. Place a piece of waxed paper over one side of the form, Stack the layers of veneer on the form, Place another piece of waxed paper over the last layer. Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping 14. Place the other half of the form over the pieces. Clamp the halves together with standard wood clamps. Fis. 10-19. Allow the sandwich to remain under pres- sure for at least twenty-four hours. Making the project: 16, Remove the lamination from the form and pull off the waxed paper. 17, Trace the outline of the project on the rough lamination. 18, Cut it out using a coping, band, or scroll saw. {9. Sand and smooth the edges. 20. Apply penetrating finish to the object as soon as possible. > Finishing If the laminated project is to be used around food, use mineral oil as a sealer. Fig. 16-19-—Clamp the halves together» Using a Jigsaw + Keep your fingers away from the blade. + All needed guards should be in place. + Wear eye protection. ASSEMBLING PROJECTS Assembling a project can be difficult or easy depending on the size and complexity of the project. However, certain things must be done during the assembly process for all projects. Making a Trial Assembly ‘To make a trial assembly, put all the parts together temporarily before gluing. Use bar ‘clamps and hand screws. Doing this will give you an idea of how the pieces fit together and whether they fit properly. You can see if any corrections need to be made. This step is simple if you are assembling a project such as a bookcase or a hanging wall shelf. These are made with parallel sides and crosspieces usually joined with dado or rabbet, Joints. With these types of projects, all you need ate flat pieces of scrap stock, bar clamps that fit across the project on the front and back, and a pair of clamps for each shelf. Projects such as end tables, stools, and small desks usually have legs and rails with corners made with mortise- and-tenon joints or dowel joints. In either case, you will need clamps to go across the ends and bar clamps to go across the sides. After assembling the project with check with a square to make sure t] project is squared up. fig. (6-20. L straightedge, measure across the corm up and down to check that the sides ar are parallel and that the project has th height throughout. Fig. io-21. By shi clamp or tapping a side or leg with a you can bring it into place, This trial assembly allows you to ad clamps to the correct width. It prepa Project for final assembly. Fig, 16-21 Checking the project with a straic Chapter 16 Gluing and ClampingGluing the Parts Assemble the project on a glue bench or in a gluing room. If a gluing room is not avail- able, place wrapping paper over the bench or floor where the gluing is to be done. Carefully remove the clamps from the trial assembly. Work from top to bottom. Lay the clamps on the bench in order so that you can pick them up easily. Place protective pieces of scrap wood next to the clamps so that everything will be on hand as needed, If you can assemble the entire project at one time, do so. If you cannot, you will need to glue and assemble sections and then do the final assembly later. In addition to the project parts, clamps, scrap pieces, and glue, have ready a rubber mallet, a rule or tape measure, and a square. With a brush, bottle, stick, or glue gun, care- fully apply glue to both parts of the joint. Do not use too much. Excess glue can be a prob- Jem to remove later. As quickly as possible, assemble the joints. Clamping Assembled Parts Place scrap pieces at points where clamps will hold the workpiece. Adjust the clamps to apply light pressure. Do this until all the clamps are in place. Then gradually tighten all the clamps, adjusting each clamp a little at a time. Check often to see that the project is squared. Fig 15-22. Measure the distance between parallel surfaces to be sure they are the same distance apart at all points. Using a straightedge, check for flatness. Fig. 16-23. Check also that the diagonals are equal. Fis. 16-24. You may need to change the position of a clamp or use the rubber mallet to tap a joint into place. As soon as the project is clamped together, clean off the excess glue with a damp sponge. Do this before the glue dries. Be careful not to mar the surface of the project. MME250 Chapter 16 Gluing and Clamping Place the project in a safe place where no one will bump it, For most projects, you will need to allow twelve to twenty-four hours for the glue to cure. Once curing is complete, carefully remove each of the clamps and scrap pieces. Fig, 16-23-—Use a straightedge to check across several olaces to make sure the surface is flat Fig. 16:24 Checking across corners to make sure the fistance is equal in both directions.