American Woodworker No 115 July 2005

,l A Classrc
/a /| Coururny
TTHurcn
Crown molding, dovetailed
drawers,glassand paneled
doors: This dream project
has it all.
l- -l Dtvloeo-
DI ffiH"
Make a masterfully
crafted glassdoor using a
matched set of router bits.
DePARTMENTS
7 Ouesrorl & Aruswen
12 Wonrsnop Trps
21 Toot- Telr: Tool Tesr:
Trps ron UsrrrrcEpoxv Reruoovr-
Oneff
28 Mooenru CRerruerM.A,KER:
7 Dnuv-Saruorruc Trps
Seruoens
Some are best at rough-
37 Weu--EourPPEDSnop
ing, others at finishing.
88 Svrall Snop Trps Which are which?
96 Oops!
SusscnrPTroNS
AmericanWoodworkerSubscriberServiceDept.,
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American Woodworker JULY 2oos 1

YoI.rRE ITIOUS.
Whether youarea do-it-
yourselfer,a professional
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you
in between, have a world Editor I(en Collier
fullof projects
inthehome Managing Editor RandyJobnson
Senior Editor Tom Caspar
or intheshopthatwillbe Associate Editors TimJohsn
Dave Munkittrick
easier andmoreenjoyable to Tools and Products Editor George Vondriska
complete whenyouusequal- '
Contributing Editor Jon Sturmbras
Design Director Sara Koehler
ityclamps, bench visesand Art Directors Patrick Hrmter
VernJohnson
miterboxes/saws fromthe Graphic Design Intern Picft Dupre
Ft"'* Adjustable Clamp Company.
r$
Copy Editor Jean Cook.
Fact Checking Specialists Jennifer Feist
Lookforthemunder the Nina ChildsJohnson
Jorgensen, and
Adjustable Production Manager Judy Rodriguez
Production Artist LisaPahl Knecht
Ponybrand names wherever Offi ce Administrative Manager Alice Garrett
Shannon Hooge
finetoolsaresold. Technical Manager
|} Roxie trilipkorvski
#
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Issue #115. American Woodworker@, ISSN 10749152,

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4 American Woodworker JULY 2oo5
(
R e p a r nA S n r u o - T H R o u c H
I w e n t r i g h t t h r o u g h t h e v e n e e r w h e n I w as sandi ng sol i d-w ood
e d g i n g fl u s h o n s o me p l y w o od shel ves. H ow can I fi x i t?
Sanding through a veneer happens to everyone soon-

er or later. Here's an old cabinetmaker's trick
that will salvage what looks to be a hopeless situ-
ation. First, remove the damaged veneer using a router
and a straight cutting bit (see photo, below left). Then,
select a piece of hardwood whose color and grain
resemble those of your veneer stock and cut a strip to fit
the sroove (see photo, below right).
Veneer seems to be getting thinner every day. To avoid
ftrttrre sand-throughs, make a squiggly line with a pencil
along the hardwood-veneer joint. It will help you keep track
of how mtrch material you're removing. For more sanding tips,
see AW #110, October 2004, page 53.
o
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Gut a 1/8-in.-deepgroove wide enough to remove the sand- Glue a strip of hardwood into the groove.Thestrip
t h r o u g h a r e a .U s e a s t r a i g h te d g e t o g u i d e t h e r o u t e r .C u t t h e should be just a hair thickerthan the groove is deep,so it
E.
a'l g r o o v ea l o n g t h e f u l l l e n g t ho f t h e c a b i n e ts i d e o r s h e l f . can be carefullysandeddown flush.
=
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NEw BnTDSAW TrnEs
My bandsaw has devel-
oped tra c k i n g p ro b -
lem s t o t h e p o i n t th a t th e
blade won' t s ta y o n th e w h e e l . I
checkedeverything and can't seem
t o c lear up th e p ro b l e m .Wh a t' sg o i n g
on her e?
Since these problems developed

over time, I suggest you check
your tires. The tires on your
bandsaw provide traction for the blade
and, like the tires on your car, they wear
out and the rubber degrades with time.
A new set of tires will likely put your saw
back on track.
"Obvious signs of worn tires are cracks and tears," clamp it in a vise and set the wheel on it. We recom-
explains Peter Perez, president of Carter Products mend replacing both rubber tires with urethane tires.
Inc., a bandsaw accessory manufacturer. "A good Urethane offers two big advantages: It lasts longer and
wear test is to sink a fingernail into the tire. A good it doesn't require adhesive to install. Clamp the new
tire will rebound with no visible mark on it. If your tire on the wheel and stretch the tire over the rim.
fingernail leaves an impression, it's time to replace Urethane tires can be made more flexible by soaking
the tire." them in hot water before you put them on the wheels.
It's easier to replace the tires with the wheel
Co.Inc.,(888)622-7831,
Source CarterProducts
removed from the saw. Taper the end of a dowel, www.carterproducts.com
CarterUltraBlue14-in.
urethane
tires,
ea.;16-in.
$23.50 urethane
tires.$33ea.
8 American Woodworker JULY 2oob
t r r _ l - " - r xAr Gt r R a M E L E S S C a B t N E T t N - r o A C o R N E R
l p l a n t o b u i l d a n d i n s t a l lf r a m e l e s sE u r o p e a n - s t y l ce a b i n e t si n m y
k i t c h e n .I k n o w h o w t o s c r i b ef a c e - f r a m ec a b i n e t st o f i t i n t o c o r n e r s
b u t , f r o m w h a t l ' v e s e e n , t h e r e ' sn o t h i n g t o s c r i b e o n a f r a m e l e s sc a b i -
net. How'sit done?
It's actrtallvplettv easr'.\{'hat \r()uckris attach:r scribeto the enclof'the

czrbinetthat goesinto the cornel'.f'hc scribccloesscvcraltl-rinss:It
lttoves tl-re end of-the cabinct iuvar' {l'onr ther l'all so the cloor calt opelt
past 90 deqrees. It also pnx'ides a thin eclse th:rt's easv to trini for a tight fit
z
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asainst the rvall. *

Finally, it sives a I\ z
cabir-retnln a E
'112"
nice finished- x 112"
RABBET
Iook where it
meets
a wall.
srffi#jl
TVpicalll', ths
scribe face is
,w_*
nrade 1- to I-I/2
in. wide, btrt
you're free to do
lvhat you think
looks best. Cut a
rabbet on the
edge of the face
piece that fits
asainst the wall.
Trirn the rabbet- SCRIBE
ed edge until it
fits snugly and
plumb on the
wall where the
cabinet will
hang. Glue a
screw flange
onto the back of o
z
the face piece, U
cf
o
screw the scribe
z
to the cabinet o
and hang. E
If'vou have a question you'd like zrnsrvered,

st-'r'rd it to us at Question & Answer,
American Woodworker, 2915 Commers Drive,
Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121 or email to
qanda@readersdigeslcom, Sorrr', but the
volunte of rnail prevents rrs fronr ansrr'erir-rg
each question inclividuallr,.
10 Arnericiur \\bocllrrr-kel J u Ly 2oo5

12 Arnelicarr \\bodrr'olker JULy 2oo5
Hravv-Durv
Glur Scnnprn
It's best to remove glue before it hardens,
but sometimes that's not possible. When I
face cement-hard glue, I pull out this robust
scraper to bull my way through it. The blade
is l,/8-in.-thick tempered steel,as tough as a
chisel. There's no chatter,becausethe tool's
long body is made from heavy iron pipe.
Extra weight and leverage really count!
I ordered the blade through a catalog for
about $8 and bought the rest of the parts
from the hardware store for about $10. The
pipe is a prethreaded nipple. The blade
comes with a predrilled L/4_.in.hole, but I
had to drill holes through a dowel and the
end cap for the threaded rod. The rubber
washers dampen vibration. To remove old,
dried glue from the blade, I scrape it with a
chisel or soak it in hot water.
Tbm Caspa'r
1//2"x12"-LONG PIPE
5/9" DOWEL, 1.1/4" RUBBER

1" LONG WASHER
1t4,,/
Source Woodworker'sSupply,(800)645-9292,www.woodworker.com THREADED
Bladefor glue scraper,#511-004,$8. ROD
1.1/4''FENDER
14 American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 WASHER
NOTCH
HYPOTENUSE ts
Dnnw Hucr AncHES \ @ R.,E+
This old boatbuilder's trick RUN RUN +
allows you to draw large arches M a k e a j i g b a s e do n t h e r i s e a n d r u n o f y o u r a r c h .

without using a giant compass or
trammel. All you have to know is
the arch's height (also called its
rise) and length (its run). You
don't need a center point. I like
the long, shallow arches on
U s e t h e j i g t o d r a w t h e a r c h o n a r o u t e rt e m p l a t e .
Mission furniture, so I use this
method for making router tem-
plates. I prefer 1/4-in. MDF for
the jig and template, but any
material will do.
Drive nails into the template
at the center and the end of the
arch. Position the jig with the
hypotenuse against the end nail
and the flat against the center
nail. Hold a pencil in the notch
and advance the jig while bear-
ing against both nails. To com-
plete the arch, flip thejig, move
the end nail to the opposite
end and repeat the process.
TimJohnson
Draw one side of the arch by

s l i d i n gt h e i i g a g a i n s t w o n a i l s .
F l i pt h e j i g o v e r t o d r a w t h e
o t h e rs i d e .
American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 17

,/ -t
A B r r r c n J o T N T E RF r r u c r
In our lastissue(AW #1l4,May 2005,page 16),we pub-
lished a workshop tip titled "Right-Angle Guide for
Jointing." In this tip, a reader suggestedaway to steady
a hand plane by attaching a wooden fence to its side,
with the fence being held to the plane by rare earth
magnets. It turns out that Lee Valley Tools makes a
hand plane fence with rare earth magnets for attach-
ment, and the idea is patented. We can't recommend
that readers make their own version of a patented tool,
as it may be a violation of the patent.
Out of curiosiry we gave Lee Valley's Veritas Jointer
Fence a test in our shop. The idea is simple enough: The
fence makes it easier to plane a board's edge square to
its face, which is particularly important when you're try-
ing to joint edges for gluing. The magnets hold the
fehce firmly against the plane's body, and-a nice little
feature that was absent on the shop-made version-an
alignment pin hooks over the side of the plane and
keeps the fence from sliding out of position during use.
The Veritas fence works great and, unlike traditional
fences that had to be clamped or screwed on, it snaps on
r'
(
and off in a flash. VERITAS
JOINTER
Source LeeValley Tools,(800)2678761,www.leevalley.com FENCE
Veritas
JointerFence.
$39.50.
18 American Woodworker JULY 2oo5
BhilA a{
Latsling l{et*toYy
fhis Fatfhev's Daty!
{[s*
\I /ith our six stylesof cor- Shelvesare a perfect cntry-
V Y belsin tendifferentwood level corbelprojectbecauseof
types, you can make shelves their sirnplicity.It's a greatway
as uniqueas the treasures you to build confidence to tacklea
wishto display. larger project.
Free plans.for a .ttandard she('are available on our n^ebsiteat:
www. o sbornewood.com/proj ects/corbeI s
ffi
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Call today for your free User Manualand P roductG uide

CircleNo. 146
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Arnerican \Arooclrvorker JULY 2oo5 21

-1
Rrscu e
A Loosr
Jorrur
We all have
m o m e n t sw h e n w e
wish we had left
t h a t t e n o nj u s t a
w h i s k e rt h i c k e r .
The gap-filling
propertiesof
epoxy make it the
perfectsolution.
E p o x yc a n f i l l
s m a l la n d b i g g a p s
and stillmaintain
full bonding
s t r e n g t hT. h i s i s
s o m e t h i n gn o
o t h e rg l u e o r w o o d
f i l l e rc a n m a t c h .
f o r m i x i n g ,b e c a u s et h e e p o x y
simply peelsout after it sets and
t h e c o n t a i n e rc a n b e r e u s e d .
tu
il.
22 American \4trodworker JULY 2OO5
t/tl , 1 2 \l i t,t jit) iiltl: {tt

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no
since'91wtm
owned
who:d
me'
soto
''--'- That
oroblems. MN
RamseY'
RobertP"
#7 RatedDrum Sanderby Independent Experts!

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Epo>rybonds many kinds of
materialsto one another,including
wood, metal, fiberglass, masonry
tile, concrete and plaster.lt will not,
however, bond to most plastics.
TIP On anodizedmetalsurfaces,sudt
as aluminumT-track, you must sand off
the coating before gluing. Epoxy doesn't
stick well to anodized surfaces.
R r r u E WA S T n I P P E D
ScnEW Hole
Simply fill the hole with epoxy.Whenit
has cured, predrill for the screws and
reinstallthehinge.Youcan also letthe
epoxy cure with screws in place for a
permanent attadrment. lf you want to
make the screw removable,apply a
coating of oil to the threads before push-
ing the screw into the wet epoxy.
TIP On a vertical surface, it's nice to have

an epoxy that won't run. Gel epoxy is the
perfectchoice.lt has a consistencysimilar to
that of petroleum jelly.Youcan even make
your own gel epoxy by adding a thickener.
Mercr AN
Epoxv lrulav
Rout a 1/8-in.x 1/8-in.groove and
mask around it with tape. Mix a
batch of slow-setting epoxy and
add a colorant. Powder tempera
paint works well. Add thickener(see
Sources,page 26) until the epoxy is
the consistencyof petroleum jelly.
Apply enough epoxy to the groove
so it sits slightly above the surface
of the wood. After the epoxy sets
but is still slightly soft, remove the
tape.When the epoxy has fully
cured, sand it level.

26 American Woodworker JULv 2oos
Tips for
Better
Drum
Sandirg
f you hate sanding (and
rvho cloesn't?), a clnrrrr
sander can ber a qocl-
st'nd..Jrrstf'eed irr v()rlr
bozrlds, or even crlrnpletecl
cloors ancl other projecls,
atrcl otrt they corne, perfect-
lv szrndcd, flat ancl srnooLh.
An<l for a rn<lclern cabinct-
rnirkerr lookins for speecl,
prccisiorr ancl eflicicncy a
dnrrn sancleris harcl to bcat.
€1 -*
1 , ttnlcssyorr step rrp t() a widc
:'l
f,
t' l>clt szrnclcr, but thev ciur
cost the price of'zr srnzrllcur.
f)nrrn sanclers start rrnckrr
{11,000.A 22-in. open-sicled
clnun sander, likc tl-rc onc
show here, costs about
$1,500. It can sand a pancl
:rs iviclc as 44 in. wher-rclonc: (r
U
in nvo p2lsses. z
l
()pcratinu a clnrrn sancler I
'L
O
is not as easy as it looks, CT
thorrqh, and yotr can nrin o

;I
ln:lnv rolls oI t'xpt'nsivt' o_
abra-sivcpaper befrrre fi{lrr- tr

(t
o
ing out the riqht tccl-rniques. o
I
He rc are sorner tips for L
irnprovine yorlr results ancl CI

o-
l
nraking your sarrclpaperlast o
\l
Ionger. O
cr
2
o
(,
U
d_
-
F
d_
Sranr AT THE RlcHr HercHr
Before making your first pass, slide your workpiece under
the sanding drum and adjust its height so the drum touches
the workpiece but can still rotate with light hand pressure.
Make your first pass or two at this setting. This approach takes
off the highest spots on the board but reduces the chance
of taking too big a bite, which could gouge your work-
piece and burn or tear the sandpaper's abrasive material.
A good rule of thumb is to take rwo passesar each height setting.
You will get better results and your paper will last longer.
UsE THE ConRECT Gnlr

Match your abrasive grit to thejob. The most com-
mon mistake people make is to start too fine. It will
not only take longer but the tendency to try to rake too
much offwill lead to poor results and damaged paper.
Y Grits can be divided into three groups: coarse,medi-

um and fine. Coarse24 to 60-grit papersare used for
abrasive planing, which involves smoothing rough-
sawn lumber, for dimensioning lumber thickness or for removing
squeeze-out on glued-up panels. Medium 80- to 120-grit papers are for
leveling previously planed material or glued-up doors and face frames.
Fine grits, 150 and higher, are for your final sanding. Always progress through the
grits in order; it's best not to skip a number. You should turn the drum sander's thickness
adjustment wheel no more than onequarter of a turn for coarse grits and one-eighth of a
turn for fine grits each time you reduce the height.
FrruorHE RrcHr Frro Ranr

The type of material you sand and how much you
want to remove with each pass determines the best
speed. If your machine has speed control on the con-
' veyor belt, start at 50 percent and then adjust it
according to the results you get. If your machine
doesn't have speed control, take lighter passes until
you develop a feel for your machine's capabilities.
Some species, such as hard maple and cherry are prone to
burning, as is end grain (see photo at left). Light passesat a high-
er speed are the best way to avoid burning these types of woods.
Oak and similar woods are less likely to burn, so a slower feed
rate and more aggressive stock removal works fine. Remember,
though, a drum sander is not a planer and is not made to hog off
lots of wood in one pass. Also, if your speed or depth setting is
too aggressive, you may get sanding chatter, which produces a
tiny washboard texture on the wood. It can be hard to see, but
hand sanding with a paper one grit finer than the level you used
in the drum sander or holding the board up to the light usually
reveals the little ripple pattern that sanding chatter produces.
Staining and finishing will certainly reveal the ripples, but that
creates a big "Oops." One way to avoid such an unpleasant sur-
prise is do a final sanding of your project with a random-orbital
sander, whether you suspect chatter marks or not.

Clavp Panrs TocETHER Tnrcr LtcHr Passrs
Edge-sanding face-frame parts prior to oN Doons
assembly savesa lot of time. Clamping the parts togeth-
AND FNAVES
er helps keep them vertical during sanding and guar-
antees they'll all end up the same width. As a rule of Sanding doors and face frames is a common use of
thumb, you should clamp parts together if they are a drum sander, not only because it saves time but
3/4in. or less thick and 2 in. or more wide. This tech- because the result is a flat frame with smooth joints.
nique may seem to raise a red flag for you regarding Getting these good results requires taking light pass-
safety, but as long as the clamps are cranked on tightly es. \Arhen the drum leaves the rail, it's touching only
and set below the top of the boards, this setup works the two side stiles. If your depth setting is too aggres-
just fine. (Of course, this is not something you should sive, the drum tends to gouge the stiles right after it
ever attempt on a wood planer, because an accidental leaves the rail. It's much like a snipe from a planer
contact with the planer knives could cause disastrous and just as undesirable.
results for you and your planer.)
32 American Woodworker JULY 2oob
Srrw rHE Wonrc
Sending your workpiece
II
though the drum sander at
an angle improves the
abrasive's effectiveness.
Skewing the board also
allows you to be a bit more
i aggressive and reduces the
possibility of burning the
'n
, .-.sl
wood or the abrasive.
'
,la'g Skewing is particular-
1:ffi ly important when you
- '
-: ' are sanding off glue. If
you send a board with glue on it
straight through the sander, you can
almost guarantee the sandpaper will accu-
mulate some adhesive buildup, which is
nearly impossible to remove.
On the final two or three passes, run the
board straight through to remove the
angled sanding marks.

Krrp rHE
Aennsvr Clrnnr
With use, the abrasive is
likely to clog with sawdust and
pitch buildup. This reduces
the abrasive's effectiveness
and increases the likelihood of
burning the belt or wood. To
clean the abrasive on the
machine, use a cleaning pad
(shown at left). You simply run
this wide, flat eraser through
your sander as though it were
a board. It's also safer than the
stick type of cleaner that you
have to hold by hand on the
drum while it's spinning and
the cover is open.
Source GrizzlyTools,(800)5234777,
www.grizzzly.com15-in.x 20-in.clean-
ing pad,#H2845,$60 ea.
34 American Woodworker JULY 2oos
#I#IFX*'
12,595prc.
9lG2&IS-t.'lfer. 3C' Cttt30'Np&n
$ 499
UFO-I028:3HPDurt Collector
1 ilicron Cartrldgo Filteir {Optionrl)
Toll Free: l -888-558-4628 SK-YC|E0:13'| 8tt

wwv.kdogroup.com;emait:kufosecoS,ufogroup.com Aub llovebll trchlne
TIWrDEALERS Avrllebbupto 2,l Blb
AREWELCOTE
ForyourSmallShop
"VQU'RES
to 8ig lndustialreeds,ve havethemall
CircleNo. 132
STncKABLE
Ban ClaMPs
Gluing up panels and doors can eat up lots
shop space. R & R Clamp's Panel Clamping System
provides a solution: clamps ttrat let you stack your
work. A single Zbin. clamp sellsfor $26, or savesome
dough and get a starter kit that includes six 24in.
clamps with additional accessoriesfor $195. The sys-
tem really simplifies panel and door glue-ups with a hands don't
price tag that's a little higher than for pipe clamps have the power
but a little lower than for parallel jaw clamps. they used to. There's
In addition to clamps, the kit includes two bottom plenty of clamping pres'
and top alignment bars, rubberjaw pads and a sock- sure to pull doors or edge-
et driver. The bottom alignment bar fastens to a work toedge glue-ups closed. And,
surface, keeping the clamPs square, and the top even under pressure, these clampr$:
alignment bar caps the stack to make sure it all stays stay flat. Glue that dries on the
stable. Glue-ups can be done without these, but the threaded rod pops right off as the jaw travels over it.
systemworks best with them. These clamps work best on stacks of parts that
The clamp jaw travels on a threaded rod and is are the same length. Available in 1-, 2',3' and 4foot
opened and closed using the socket driver, either by lengths, they also work as general-purpose clamps
hand or with a cordless drill. A cordless drill makes but are slightly more cumbersome than conven-
assemblyfast and really benefits woodworkers whose tional bar clamps for case assembly.
o
ul
F
o
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o
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z
f
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Source R & R Clamp,(g2O)86g-2987,wwwrrclamp.com Starterkit with 24.in. clamps,$195. PanelClampingSystem starter kit with 3&'
CE
E. in. clamps,$2b0. 12-in.ctamp,$20. 24-in.clamp, $26. 3Gin. clamp, $35. 4&in. clamp, $39. Rubberguards.$5.50 for four. 24-in.bottom align-
o ment bar,$3 ea. 48-in. bottom alignmentbar,$5.50 ea.24lin. top alignmentbar,$3 ea. 4&in. top alignmentbar,$5.50 ea'
tr
o
l,.u
'JULY
AmericanWoodworker 2006 37
Two NEw Tnrv RourERS
Cabinetmakers who work with plastic laminate have been using trim
routers for years. These lighnveight, smalldiameter machines are easy
to grab for one-handed control. They're great for l/4.in shank, small-
diameter round-over, ogee and, of course, flush-trim bits. There are a
handful of players in this field, but Bosch and Ridgid have introduced
two new small routers with big features.
Both machines have variable speed. You generally think of variable
speed as a necessity for running largediameter bits, something you'll
never do with a trim router. But running any bit at a lower speed offers
a feeling of greater control over the cut and often leads to less burning.
Along with variable speed come soft start and electronic feedback.
Soft start allows the machines to ramp up to speed instead of instantly
popping from 0 rp- to full speed, again offering a greater feeling of
control over the router. Electronic feedback ensures that the router
maintains the speed you choose, even under load.
B o s c H P R 2OE V S
The Bosch PR20EVS,$120, has a 5.7-amp variable-speed
motor (16,000 to 30,000 {pm), a very comfortable soft grip
for your hand and a top-notch user-friendly depth-of-cut
adjustment.
The base has two adjustment modes. In one mode, the base
freely slides up and down the router motor for big adjust-
ments. In the second mode, a micro-adjust is used to fine-
tune bit height. The base is locked with a quick clamp;
there's no wing nut to tighten and loosen. The router
includes a spindle-lock for one-wrench bit changes.
In addition to the PR2OEVS,Bosch makes the pRl0E,
$100, that offers soft start but no variable speed.
R r o c r oR 2 4 O O
The Ridgid R2400 cosrs 9100, has a Gamp variable-speedmotor
MrcRo-
(20,000 to 30,000 rpm) and comes in a kit that includes a fence. ADJUST
Compared with other trim routers,
ie 2-l/8-in. motor housing has
an extremelysmall diamete4 so
it's very easyto grip, even for
small hands.
Depth-of-cut adjustments
are made by loosening the wing nut
that locks the base and sliding the
base up and down the router motor. RACK.AND.
PINIONDEPTH
A rack-and-pinion depth-adj ustment ADJUSTMENT
knob helps control
the position of
the base, but the
control isn't as
precise as on the
Bosch machine.
t()
@
Sources BoschTools,(8771267-2499, www.boschtools.com pRIOE trim router,
ct
z $100. PR20EVS trim router,$120. r Ridgid,(gool474-3M3,www.ridgid.com R24oo
-9 trim router,$100.
g
o

Source
Lee ValleyTools
(800)871-8158
www.leevalley.com
Largeshoulderplane,
# 0 5 P 4 3 . 0 1$,1 7 0 .
Ever make a tenon that's justi-frri, too thick? The chatter. The additional durability is a real bonus,
fastest, most accurate way to shave it down is with a becauseyou won't have to sharpen it as often.
rabbet or shoulder plane. Both types of planes have A couple of new features make this plane easy to
blades that run the full width of the sole. Shoulder use. Unlike most rabbet or shoulder planes, this one
planes are heavier and larger, because they're also has a lateral lever for slightly skewing the blade.
designed to cut end grain. This new large shoulder Skewing compensatesfor a blade that's not sharpened
plane from Veritas is ajoy to use and is large enough absolutely square. In addition, a clever rear knob can
to pare the full width of most tenons in one shot. Its tilt to either side, providing a comfortable grip for
blade is made from lrz&in.-thick superdurable A2 tool either right- or left-handers.
steel. The extra thickness makes it less prone to
Cialis is not for ev91Vone.lf youtakenitratas,

oftenusedforclrestparn(alsoknownasangina), or alpha-blockers
(otherthan Flomg 0.1 mg on;e daily),prescribedfor prostatepr6ul"rc or rrigh
bloodFrgs;il;?o not take
Cialis.Suchcombinations-could caq6ea sudden,unsaledrop in bloodpo""rrE. Don'tdrinkalcoholin excess
(toa levelof intoxication)
withCialis.Thiscombination
mayincriiaseyour9h"n""" otletting aizryoiloweringyour
bloodpressure.Cialisdoesnot protecta manor his painer fromsLxually transmitt"i Oir"ases,includingHlV.
Themostcommonsideeffectswith Cialiswereheadacheand upsetstomach.Backacheandmuscleachewere
AplusrABlr-Jnw
Spntruc Clnvp
Spring clamps are handy for a million dif-
ferent lightduty clamping jobs. Until now,
though, you needed different sizes of
clamps for different thicknessesof mate-
rial. And large-capacity spring clamps
are so hard to squeeze-you almost
need another clamp to open them.
The new BesseyVarioClippix clamps have
an adjustable jaw that ratchets oPen to
2-5/8 in. on the small model and to +I/4u;^.
on the large model.Jaw depth isL-l/z in. on
the small .l*p and 2 in. on the large one.
Sp.ittg pressure remains constant even as the
jaw opening increases, so you don't need
a gorilla gtip to use the .luorp on thick
material. At $5.50 for the small and $6.20
for the large model, the VarioClippix
clamps are slightly more expensive than
conventional spring clamps.
Source Bessey Tools, (800) 82*1004,

www.americanclamping.comSmallVarioClippixclamp,
#X/3-50, $5.50. LargeVarioClippixclamp, #K113.008,
$6.20.
(tadalafil)t"u*
u)u)u.cialis. com
1-877-4-CIALIS
also reported,sometimeswith delayedonset.Most menweren'tbotherel bVthe side effectsenough!o gtop

takingbiatis.Althougha rareoccurence,menwho experieniean erectionfor morethan 4 hours(priapism)
shouidseekimmediitemedicalattention.Discussyourmedicalconditionsand medications with yourdoctorto
ensureCialisis right for you and thatyou are healthy
enough for activity.
sexual
"ln ctiniealtrials,Ciatiswis shownto improve,up to 36 hour{afterdosing,theabilityof menwithED to havea single
successfu/intercourse attempL gE)
Gb/rs@rsalqrbGredM<otusrosuc.Honax@@neufinHq)isareefMfmRdi6oat*ID35947RitbdhtFUSA3ooo127828o6051copyifrtozoos,r.fy|costlc.AIRghbRss€'l
DEWaLT ONLTNE
Panrs AND SEnvtcr
ffi
ffi
If you have Internet access,You
ffta
]NW6
G also have fingertip access to a
ttta E
1*xL
tsntr,|E huge array of DeWalt Parts and
sra
ffi.3
service tips. DeWalt has intro-
@@
o+x**"1
i
, . .
_
i
duced www.dewaltservicenet. com,
*tElll
@oa|ll
t ''ur5td, @.t1 F cc h$dF
a service-oriented Web site that is
Itffi6Fd
8r$uffir
2 r?l$tas FE.O ttej,r F- 9C r|$df packed with information and easY
i
3 r7s,,'.&2 ffirsr i $e{ tf b$dP to use.

a l7tffil.-fr| ro|.otrtt 's.zt F- ot b$#
Simply type in a DeWalt model
3 t"rffi&I ,sttmj g''2r F- tt bgoclC
number and away you go. The site
7 r?wD4, stcill' &an F tt h#
provides exploded views, wiring
I Effi772-t 6ffy t{irB F- l't h$dlf
I fisG-qf EN s.Er b$de diagrams, service notes and even

ry.s)
b$# a handful of how-to-repair videos.
Lose your owner's manual? You
h$rlf
can download one for most
hgoCf
DeWalt tools. If you need rePlace-
s
'
...tt\
ment parts, they can be ordered
J-r"
directly through the Web site.
zt
t
TJ-J
f Source DeWaltPartsandService,
F
(J www.dewaltservicenet.com
s
l
z
American Woodworker JULY 2oob 43
o
Preparefor
Tool I u
Career in Woodw orking
oTt.'
rt alnng
'rHoryrgon|
SJAA|:uDnKT
ptplomu
a@ffita
hr w4tnttld t{ tbe stur!5{ttl snrtlfuIk,

oIbw*Mn
tBMbrwffidotrw4rddub
Ntu
Th! best tools in the world are valuable only if you know how to use -:--'
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46 American Woodworker JULY2oos
Cl Rout dadoesin the sidesto supportthe shelvesand
1 Start by gluing up the cabinetsides' Splineskeep the
rails.Youcan't go wrong when you use this shop-made
I boards aiigned,so the joints will be flush on the glued- /
jig (see Fig. B., below).
up surface.
BuILD THE Basr CnetNET (A4), too. Rout the full-length 3/&in.deep rabbet on the back
l. Glue up blanks for the cherry cabinet sides (Al, Fig' A, edge on the router table, using a fence and the straight bit.
page 46) and the pine shelves (A2). Splined joints keep the 4. Cut the pine shelves and maple rails to final dimensions.
faces aligned (Photo 1). Cut the sides to final dimensions They're all the same length.
(see Cutting List, Page 54). 5. Rout a centered l/4in.-wide groove in the back edge of
2. Rough<ut the decorative profiles on the bottoms of the the front drawer rail.
sides and then rout the final profiles with a template (Fig'J, 6. Glue together the base cabinet, making sure the shelves,
Detail 1, page 55). rails and sides are flush at the front. Use cauls on the shelves to
3. Rout \/L\n.Aeep dadoes for the shelves (Fig C, below) apply pressure evenly all along the joins. Clamp 9Gdegree
with a straight bit and ajig (Photo 2). To Prevent blowout at brackes in the corners to help keep this large cabinet square
the end of the dadoes, the jig's rails should fit snugly over the (photo 3). After clamping the cabinet together, make sure it's
base cabinet sides. Before routing each dado, fasten the jig in still square by measuring diagonally; both diagonal measure-
position by screwing it to the cabinet sides. Rout l/4in.deep ments should be the sarne.Install both top rails (A4) when you
sropped dadoes for the drawer rails (A3). Make sure the front clamp, but leave them unglued until the cabinet has been
dado's bottom edge aligns with the back dado's top edge' Use squared. Then glue and screw the front top rail. Screw the
thejig ro rour the 7/ {in.deep stopped rabbets for the top rails back rail in position, but leave it unglued so it can be removed.
When used with a 112-in. straight bit, this jig allows you
to adjust the width of your dadoes to match the shelves'
thickness.
The distance between the fences determines the dado's
width. For 3/4-in.-widedadoes,this distanceis the diame-
tr
ter of your router'sbase plus 1/4 in. lf your shelvesare a

slightly differentthickness,simply adjust the distance
ll
,14"7
1-11
beiween the fences.When you build your jig, make sure

the fencesare perpendicularto the rails and parallelto
one another.
1I sl4
Positionthe jig by aligning its dadoeswith your layout 11-3/8'

marks on the cabinetside. Fastenit with screws and
you're ready to rout. I
+
314"=
DIA. OF ROUTER
BASE + 1/4"
1
11"
I
+
T
5-718"
1l4"Dx3/4'W
t
t
l\ #Bx1-'v4"
I F.H.SCREWS
I
I
},t6
#8 x 1-114'1[
F.H.SCREWS ? w
/
1I
Fto
5/16" x 3/8" LIP
1 / 4 "S P L I N E
-112"
H2
1ti
GLUE / ./
YA
H
H6 / / COvr
/" 1 | 2'U64"-RA,D. OGE

H4lr{5 B
T -----/
""*"
48 American \4roodrvorker JULy 2oob

/ Assemble the face
-f
frame with pocket-hole
joinery.This method is fast
C2 Ctue the base cabinet together on a flat surface.To and easy.Youdrill holes
J tquate the cabinet, clamp shop-made 9O-degreebrack- Assemble the face frame's with a dedicatediig, clamP
ets in the corners before you tighten the bar clamps. bottom corners with the piecestogether and fas-
splines so you won't have ten them with special
to worry about hitting a screws.Thejoinery is hid-
screw when you rout the den, becauseit's on the
AssrvlBLE AND lrusrau decorativecutout. back of the frame.
THE FACT FNAVT
Pocket-holejoinery is a great choice for thisjob (Photo 4).
Biscuits are too large for all the narrow pieces, dowels aren't
as accurate and mortise-and-tenon joinery takes too long.
Pocket-holes are drilled on the back side of the face frame, so
make sure to orient all of your pieces back side up.
7. Cut the face-frame stiles and rails to final dimensions.
The outside stiles (Bl) are 7/1bin. oversize in width, so the
face frame is slightly wider than the cabinet. After the face
frame is glued on, its overhanging edges are routed flush.
8. Drill pocketholes in the top rail (B2), drawer rail (B3),
drawer stiles (B4) and door stile (85).
9. Rout stoBped, centered slots for splines in the bottom
rail (86) and in the outside stiles (Photo 4, inset). Splines are
a better choice here than pocket screws, because you'll rout
through thesejoints when you shape the face frame's curved
profile.
10. Gtue and clamp the splinedjoints. Then fasten the rest
of the face-frame pieces with pocket screws. Measure the
diagonals to make sure the face frame is square.
ll. Rout the decorative bottom profile (Fig.J, Detail 2,
page 55). You'll have to rout against the grain during a Por-
tion of each pass,so tearcut may occur (Photo 5). After rout-
ing, finish cutting the profile's center point with a chisel or
file.
12. Glue the face frame onto the cabinet. Make sure the
top edges of the face-frame rails (B2, 83 and 86) are flush
with the cabinet rails (A3 and A4) and the bottom fixed shelf
(A2). Equalize the overhang on both sides. Tack the frame X nout the decorativecutout with a template and a flush-
J trim bit.You have to rout againstthe grain during this
with a couple brads so it stays in place when you apply the
operation.To minimize tear-out,rough-saw the profile to
clamps. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and trim within 1/16in. of the patternline, so you can make a light
the face frame stiles flush with the cabinet sides. pass. Dampen the wood before routing and use a large-
13. Glue on the shelf support (B7). diameter bit (see Sources,page 56).

Attachthe drawer supports.Gtue the tongue-and-groove
fi
\,7 ;oints at the front. Securethe backswith screws and
washersthrough the slots.Thisassemblymethod accom_
modatesseasonalmovement that occurs in the cabinet,s
solid wood sides and shelves.
lrusrall THE Dnnwrn SuppoRTS

14. Remove the cabinet's back top rail for access.cut cen-
tered tongues on the front edges of the maple drawer sup
ports (A5). Test-fit the supports in the grooved front drawer
rail: Their faces must be flush for the drawers to slide smooth-
ly. cut centered slots in the back edges, to allow for seasonal
movement (Photo 6). Install the drawer supports.
15. Glue and clamp the maple drawer guides (,4.6,Fig. A;
Photo 7) and then fasten the back top rail to the cabinetwith
glue and screws.Install the maple kickers (Az). They're slot-
ted at the back, like the drawer supports, to allow seasonal
movement. Butt the kickers behind the face frame and glue
and screw them to the top rail. Fasten them to the back top
rail with screws and washers.
Mnrr AND lrusrnll THETop

16. Glue together boards for the top (C), using splines for
alignment. If you don't want the splines to show on the ends,
simply rout stopped grooves and cut the splines to fit. cut the
top to final dimensions.
17. Rout the rop's edge profile (Fig. A, Detail l) with a
euitOthe backfrom boardswith overlappingrabbets. l/2-in.-radius half-round bit (see sources, page 56) and an
Q
(J lhese overlayjoints are calledshiplaps.work from edge guide installed on your router.
one
end to the other, using spacersto maintaineven gaps 18. Rout the l/4-in.-radius ogee trim molding profile (see
betweenboards.Planeor rip the last board to fit.
Sources) on wide Z/4-lin._thick blanks. Cut
the front trim (C1) and side trim pieces
(C2) and the thinner top back trim piece
(C3) as offcuts from these blanks.
19. Fasten the top to the cabinet with
screws through countersunk holes in the
top rails and a couple of metal tabletop fas-
teners (see Sources) in the sides. Rout slots
in the cabinet sides for these fasteners.
20. Miter the front trim to fit and glue it
on. Then miter and attach the side trim.
50 American Woodworker JULv 2oo5

f) guitOthe raised-paneldoors. Cut mortisesin the stiles, 1 n C u t t e n o n so n t h e d o o r r a i l su s i n g a d a d o s e t a n d t h e
V using the groove to guide the mortising chisel.Keepthe tU miter gauge.Installa fence and stop block.Thefence
stile firmly in position by clamping a fence in front' controlstear-outand the stop block determinesthe tenon's
length.
6"
1-13/16"
* Lipped on three sides;

1 1 naUUetthe backof the door panel.By adjustingthe
no lip on hinge stile.
I I Oitt height,you'll make tongues that exactlyfit the
GROOVE grooves in the stiles and rails.
Glue the miter and about the first 4 in. of the molding. Nail 23. Lay the cabinet on its face and fit the boards. Work
it at the back to allow the seasonal movement of the cabinet from one edge to the other, using spacers to create even over-
top and sides. laps between boards (Photo 8). Make adjustments, either by
changing the thickness of the spacers or the width of the n'vo
lrvsrnll THE Bacr Bonnos outside boards, until all the boards fit. Then fasten the
Shiplapped boards disguise seasonal movement by over- boards with countersunk screws. Add rigidity to the cabinet
lapping, so gaps don't appear between boards during dry sea- by gluing the outside boards in the rabbets.
sons (Fig. E, page 50).
21. Cut the pine back boards to final dimensions. The out- B u u o A N D l r u s r n l l T H ED o o n s
side backboards (A8 andAg) are differentwidths to center the The doors feature raised panels and haunched mortise-
back's pattern when it's viewed from the front of the cabinet. and-tenon joinery (Fig. F, above left). Their outer edges are
22. Rabbet the backface of the left side back board (A8). lipped, so the doors overlay the openings in the cabinet
Rabbet the front face of the right side back board (A9)' 24. Saw centered grooves in the inside edges of the stiles
Rabbet bothfaces of the inside boards (A10). Drill counter- (Dl) and rails (D2).
sunk holes for screws. Cut the angled feet on the outside 25. Cut mortises in the stiles (Photo 9).
boards. 26. Saw tenons on the rails (Photo 10). Adjust the height

{
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& o * * d o o r s a r e e a s i e rt o i n s t a l lt h a n i n s e td o o r s b e c a u s e
t h e y h i d e a l l t h e g a p s .I n t h e 1 9 t hc e n t u r y ,l i p p e dd o o r s w e r e
u s e d o n c u p b o a r d sl i k et h i s o n e t o k e e po u t m i c e .
T- -\
7t8" l1/8"GLASSI
Isia" ft-l --
' , T r a n s f e tr h e h i n g e m o r t i s e
l o c a t i o n sf r o m t h e d o o r s
',
5/16" x 3/8" LIP G;} . , t o t h e c a b i n e t .U s e a s t r a i g h t e d g e t o a l i g nt h e d o o r s
a n d c e n t e rt h e m i n t h e o p e n i n g s .
G2 F---'
ll
It
ll
I
GI \ tlo ' t
7-314"
G4 ll
I
lNo
I LtP
\G3 i\
\
G5
10- 14" +7-318"
I
I
7-3t4 "
\
G4
G3
I
c2
314"
j ; , Build frames for the glazed doors.you,ll need a spe_
:
"
cializedrouter bit set (see Sources, page 56) and a
r o u t e r t a b l e . F o r c o m p l e t e h o w - t o i n s t r u c t i o n s ,s e e " D i v i d e d -
Light Doorsj' page 57).
52 American Woodworker JULy 2oos

1 X Buildthe crown molding in three sections.Createthe 1 C, Saw the edges of the cove section at 34-degree
IJ middle cove section by passingthe cove blank over the IU angles.After making the first cut, repositionthe fence
tablesawbladeat an angle,using a fenceset at 37 degrees' on the other side of the bladeto make the secondcut'
Fasteningthe fence to the miter gauge makes it easy to set
this angle.Cut the cove by making light passes,raisingthe
blade in 1/16-in.increments.
of the dado until one passon each face creates a tenon of the toms (E7 and E8) fit in grooves centered in one of the dovetails,
proper thickness. Saw out the haunches on the bandsaw' so they,re hidden. If you're unfamiliar with routing dovetails
27. Raise the panel (D3) on your router table with a panel-rais- with a dovetail jig, see "Making Lipped Drawers," (AW #84'
ingbit (seeSources,page 56). Then rabbet the back (Photo 11)' December 2000, page 91) for complete how-to instructions.
28. Glue the doors together after assembling them with- The fact is, you don't have to use a jig to make the drawers.
out glue to test the fit. Brush glue into the mortises and onto In the 19th century drawers in cabinets like this one were often
the tenons. Don't glue the panel. It must be free to expand handdovetailed, butjust as often, they were simply butted and
and contract inside the frame. To make sure my panels don't nailed. That means you can choose the drawerjoinery method
get stuck, I alwaysfinish them prior to assembly.I also wax the that suits your taste and skill level. To make drawers, all you real-
edges, so any glue that happens to squeeze into the panel
grooves during glue-up won't stick.
The drawers are sizedfor dovetailjigs that produce
29. Round-over the doors' front edges with a l/L\n''
pins and tails spaced7/8 in. Set up your jig to leave
radius bit. Then rabbet the back edges on three sides (Photo three-quarterpins at the top and bottom' Center
12). Don't rabbet the hinge stile. grooves for the drawer bottoms inside the lowest
30. Cut hinge mortises in the doors. Then position the socketand pin.
doors on the cabinet Soyou can transfer the mortise locations
to the face frame (Photo 13). Cut these mortises, install the
hinges and mount the doors. Note: Because of their overlay
style and the use of traditional butt hinges, the doors swing
open slightly less than 180 degrees.
31. Mark locations for the knobs (D4; see Sources, page
3/8" LIP
56) and drill holes for the screws.
Buun rHE DnnwERS

The drawerfions (El and E2) are roundedover atal/4-.in
radius and lipped 3/8 in. on top and l/4 in. on the ends, so
they cover the openings. The bottoms aren't lipped. The
drawers fit inside the openings with L/LGin. width and l/&in'
height tolerances. The knobs (E3; see Sources) are centered
in the drawer fronts.
The maple drawer sides (E4) and backs (E5 and E6) are
sized for machine-cut dovetails, with threequarter pins at the DOVETAILS
top and bottom (Fig. H, at right). The plywood drawer bot-
Base Cabinet Top Cabinet
Dimensions19-112"D
x 57"Wx 36-7l8"H Dimensions:14-314"D
x 59-1/2"Wx 4B-112"H
Part Name (Xy. Dimensions Part Name Oty. Dimensions

Bottom cabinet Top cabinet
A Cabinet 1 18"x36"x54" F Cabinet 12"x45-114"x54"
A1 Side 2 3/4" x 17-1/4"x36" F1 Top shelf 1 3/4" x 11-1/4"x 53" .
A2 Fixed shelf 2 314"x 16-3/4"x 53" F2 Fixed shelf 3 3/4"x10-3/4"x53"
A3 Drawer rail 2 3/4" x 2" x 53" - F3 Side 2 3/4" x11-1/4 x45-1/4"
A4 Top rail 2 3/4"x2"x53" F4 Face-frameoutside stile 2 3/4" x 5-1/16"x45-1/4"
A5 Drawer support 4 314"x 2-314"x 14-518 .. F5 Face-framecenter stile 1 314"x2-1/2" x32-114"
AO Drawerguide 4 3/4" x1-1/4 x14-3/4" FG Face-frametop rail 1 3/4" x2" x4"
A7 Kicker 4 314"x2-3/4" x16-1/4" F7 Face-framebottom rail 1 3/4" x4" xM"
A8 Left side back board 1 1/2"x4-718"x36" F8 Shelf support 2 1 - 1 / 2 x" 1 - 1 / 2 "x 2 "
Ag Rightside backboard 1 112"x5-3/8"x36" Fg Left side back board 1/2" x4-3/4" x4-718"
A10 Insidebackboard g 112"x5-118"x33" F10 Rightside backboard 1/2"x5-114"xM-7/8"
A11 Top cabinetstay 2 1/2"x1-112"x43" F11 Wide back board 4 112"xJ" y Q-Q,-Jlg"
Face frame F12 Narrow back board 4 1/2"x4-314 xM-718"
B Faceframe 1 314"x36"x54" Divided-light doorc
81 Outsidestile 2 314"x5-1/16"x36" G Glass-panel
door 2 7/8" x21" x32-3/4"
82 Top rail 1 3l4"xl-l/l"y!,{'' G1 Stile 4 7/8" x2-314 x32-3/4"
83 Drawer rail 1 314"x1-114"xM" G2 Rail 4 7/8" x2-3/4 x15-1/2"
84 Drawer stile 2 3/4" x1-1/4"x4-3/4" p l u s2 0 m m "
85 Door stile 1 314"x2-1/2 x22-518" G3 Horizontalmuntin 4 718"x3/4" x 15-1/2
86 Bottom rail 1 314"x4" x44" plus 20 mm -'
87 Shelf support 1 1 - 1 / 2x 1 - 1 1 2 x" 2 " G4 Top/bot.veft. muntin 4 7/8" x314" x7-3/4
Top p l u s2 0 m m "
CTopl 718"x 19-1/2"x57" Gb Centerverticalmuntin 2 7/8" x314" x10-114
C1 Fronttrim 1 314"x718" x 58" --- plus 20 mm ..
C2 Side trim 2 314"x718" x20" r GO Knob 2 1-114" diameter
C3 Backtrim 1 1/2"x7/8" x52-112 G7 Glass retainers 48 3/16"x 3/16"
Frame and panel doors x cut to length
D Door 2 7 1 8 "x 2 1 " x 2 3 - 1 / 8 " Grown molding and web frame
D1 Stile 4 7 / 8 "x 3 - 1 1 2 x 2 3 - 1 / 8 " H Assembledfront crown 1 2-3/4"x3-1/2" x 66" .--
D2 Rail 4 7/8" x3-112 x17-112"rr HH Assembledside crown z 2-3/4"x3-1/2" x 18"'
D3 Panel 2 3 / 4 " x 1 4 - 1 1 2 " x 1 6 - 5 / 8 " H1 Crown base 1 718"x15fi6x108"
D4 Knob 2 1-l12 diameter H2 Crown cap 1 718"x1-112x108"
Drawers H3 Crown cove blank 1 7/8" x3-114"x 108"
E Outsidedrawers 2 5"x14-518"x17" H4 Web-framestile 2 3/4" x2" x54-1116"',
EE Centerdrawer 1 5" x 13-9/16"x17" H5 Web-framerail 3 314"x2" x8-314n*t
E1 Centerfront 1 3/4"x5"x13-9/16" H6 Brackets 5 3/4" x 1-5/8'x2-3/4"
EZ Outsidefront 2 314"x5"x14-518" '
112'W
x 3/B'Drabbeton backedqe
E3 Knob 3 1-l12 diameter " Dimensions for use with Freudrouterbit set #g9-270
E4 "' Cut to length,both ends mitered
Side o 112"x4-518"x16-3/8" r Cut to length,one end mitered
E5 Center back 1 112"x4-5/8 x13-1/16"
" 114'Wx 3/B"Dcenteredgrooveon one edge
E6 Outsideback 2 1/2"x4-518 x14-1/8" "' 1/4'W x 3/8"Lcenteredtongue on both ends
E7 Center $91196*r 1 1 1 4 x" 1 2 - 9 / 1 6 x 1 6 - 1 1 4 "
EB Outside bottom *'* 2 1/4"x 13-5/8"x16-1/4"
114"Wx 3/8"D centered groove on back edge of the front drawer rail
114"\Alx 3/8"D centered tongue on front edges, centered
slot in backedges
"' Cut to length,both ends mitered
' Cut to length,one end mitered
" 1-314-in. tenonson both ends
"' Mapleor birchplywood

1n Cu" the crown molding together in stages.Clamping 1 O Glue the crown molding onto its own web frame.
L I a beveled offcut to the back of the cove makes it easy IO Rabbetedspacersalign the molding and assurea uni-
.to glue and clamp the ogee. Orient the two sectionsby form lip.When the crown is installed,the lipped molding
keeping them flush at the back. covers the joint between the frame and the cabinet.
ly need to know are the size of the drawer fronts and the size panes of glass (Photo l4). In the old dap, this complicated
and depth of the drawer oPenings. joinery was done by hand. Today, special router bit sets make
thejob easier.
BurLD THEToP CnetNET Building these doors is in itseH an ad'vanced project, so
The top cabinet is constructed the same way as the base, we've devoted an entire story to show you exactly how to
with shelves (Fl and F2, Fig. D, page 48) glued into dadoes make them. Most of the work is done on the router table, but
and rabbets in the sides (F3). A face frame (F4 through F7) you also have to chop mortises. For complete how-to instmc-
is glued to the front, supports (F8) are glued under the tions, see "Divided-Light Doors" page 57. The dimensions for
shelves and shiplapped boards (F9 through F12) are screwed the giass openings (Fig. G, page 52) and for the door parts
to the back. The back shows on this cabinet, so I used wide (Gl through G5) are dedicated to the same Freud router bit
and narrow boards for visual interest. The top shelf is rabbet- set (see Sources, page 56).
ed, like the sides, to house the back boards. 32. After gluing the door frames together, round-over the
edges and rout lips on three sides, as you did on the solid
BuruoDtvtoeo-LtcurDoons panel doors on the base cabinet. Similarly, chop the hinge
These handsome doors feature mortise-and-tenon con- mortises, install the hinges and mount the doors. Then mark
struction that's modified to incorporate multiple individual and drill screw holes for the knobs (G6).

38. Adjust the fence's position by moving the miter
gauge forward or back. Hold the blank against the fence
and use line A (Fig. D, Detail 2) as aguide for positioning.
when line A intersects the point where the blade enters the
throat plate, clamp the fence to the saw table.
39. Install a featherboard to keep the blank from wander-
ing away from the fence as you make the cut. Lower the blade
to l/lG.in exposure and cut a test cove to familiarize yourself
with the process. Then cut the coves (photo lb).
40. Saw the cove's beveled edges at 34degree angles
(Photo 16). orient the blank cove face up for both cut'. save
the larger beveled offcut. Handle the beveled cove molding
carefully; its top edge is fragile.
41. Use the beveled offcut to glue the ogee-profi.le base to
the cove (Photo l7). The cap glues on easily with spring
clamps only. Sand the molding to remove the saw marks.
42. Build the maple web frame (H4 and H5). This frame
isn't glued to the cabinet, so tongue-andgroovejoinery is bet-
ter than pocket holes. The frame is slightly longer than the
cabinet, so the lipped molding will drop easily over the sides.
43. Fit the front crown molding (H) to the frame by miter-
ing the corners. Then glue it on, using rabbeted spacers to
create a uniform l/Lin. overhang (photo 18).
44. Miter and fit the side mold^ing-s(HH). Then glue them
Gracefulcurves, a wide stance and prominent crown mord-
ing reflect this cupboard's pennsylvaniaheritage,where on. Fit and install the brackets (HO).
similar pieces have been built for more than 200 years. 45. Screw the crown assembly onto the top cabinet.
other Pennsylvaniadesign cues include the step-6ackstyle
with glazed doors over an open sill and the three drawers
banked over a pair of raised-paneldoors in the base.
Frruauy AsseMBLE
THE CUPSOARD
46. Make two stayrs(All) to fasten the cabinets together.
Position the top cabinet on the bottom cabinet so you can
33. Remove the doors. Install the glass p:rnes and retain- mark and drill countersunk screw holes on the sta1n. The
ers (G7) after you've applied the finish. screws go into nuo shelves in the top cabinet and both rails
and one shelf in the bottom cabinet_
Burlo AND lrusralt. 47. If necessary,instalt the top trim molding (c3) to cover
THE CNOWru MOLDING thejoint between the back boards of the top cabinet and the
The crown molding consists of three separate moldings top of the bottom cabinet.
(Hl through H3) that are glued together (Fig D, Detail l,
page 48). This molding mounts on its own web frame, which Awo FlNtsH
is then attached to the cabinet. If the molding were directly The only finishing mistake you can make with cherry is to
attached to the cabinet, seasonal movement would eventual- stain it. cherry ages to a beautiful deep coror wittr just about
ly break open the miterjoing. any finish, so it doesn't need stain.
Just grve it time. For
34. Rout the 2l/6Lin.-radius ogee (see Sources, below appearance, long life and durability, I prefer a surface finish,
righ0 and l/2-in-radius halFround profiles for the base like shellac or lacquer. cherry will age faster with an oil fin-
(Hl) and cap moldings (H2) on opposite sides of a wide
ish; however an oil finish enhances cherry's unpredictable
blank. Then rip the finished moldings (oriented as offcuts) figure, which can appear mottled or even blotchy. surface
from the blank. finishes minimize this figure.
35. To make the cove molding (H3), start by drawing the Leave the pine interior unfinished and a fresh scentwill fill
cove profile (Fig. D, Detail 2, page 4g) on both ends of a the air whenever you open the cabinet doors.
T7/{in.-wrde test blank. The profile is offset to one side, so
make sure it's oriented the same w:ry on each end. Drawver-
Sources SmithWoodworks& Design,lg}gl gSZ-272g,
tical lines to mark the start and end of the cove. Mark one as
www.niceknobs.com cherryknob,#Kg2j14, $1.50ea.
1-114-in.-dia.
line A. 1-1/2-in.4ia.
cherryknob,#Kg2112,$i.60 ea.r Freudroors,(g00)334-
' 4107,wwur.freudtools.com
36. Unplug the saw. Set the blade height at the depth of 21/64-in.-radius
ogeebit,#99.006. $57.114_in._
radiusogeebit,#38-1s4,$37.1-in.topbearingftush-trim bit,#so-112,$2g.
the cove, 5/16 in. 1-in.half+oundbit,#82-t18, $s6.Beveted-prof
ile panel-raising
bit,#9g.b1
6,
'37. set your miter $93.Divided-light
cabinetdoorbit set,*99-zzo,si so. . wooiwoiker's
gauge ataSzdegree angle to the blade
Hardware, (800)383-0130,www.wwhardware.com Tabletop fasteners,
and install a long; straight fence. #Kv0324srl, $5 for a boxof 20.Doubre-roilercatches, #LAl91oAc,
$0.55ea.2-in.butthinges. Sp129S Bp21g, $2 a pair.
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American Woodworker JULY 2oo5

Toor-sYou'rl Usr
To build these doors, you'll need a
router table and a set of special bia (see
ArueroMy Sources, page 6l). You'll also need a
OFA
metric ruler, tablesaw, planer, jointer
DrvlDED-
and some means of making mortises.
LrcHr
Doon Drslcl Youn Doon
Let's start with some old-
fashioned terms. The openings for
the glass are traditionally called
lights. They're "divided" by bars
called muntins.
Start by drawing your door.
Determine the door's overall size,
the widths of the stiles, rails and
muntins, and the size of the lights.
HORIZONTAL Next, select a set of dividedJight
MUNTIN
I door router bis. Each set is designed
Y for a specific range of door thicknesses
and requires a different setup, but the
general steps are the same. Visit *re
manufacturers'Web sitesfor details. We
sTlLE used bits from Freud ($1b0, seephotos
below). They're suitable for doors from
) 13/16 to l-l/8 in. thick with 5/&in. or
wider muntins. These bits make tenons;
some other setsdo not.
MORTISE Sranr Currrruc Panrs

Mill all the door parts to final thick-
ness (7/8 in. for this door). Make a few
extra boards the same size as the rails.
Use these for making the muntins and
for testing the router bit and mortising
machine setups.Crosscutall the pieces
a few inches long.
Three major parts make a divided light door: stiles, rails and muntins. Rip and joint the stiles and rails to
Every part is locked in place by a mortise-and-tenonjoint. In this six-light final width. Cut the stiles to final tength.
door, the two horizontal muntins are the same tengin as the rails.Thiee
Leave the rails and muntin boards long.
short vertical muntins fit between the rails and horiiontal muntins.
Although proportions vary among furniture styles, in this door the The muntins will be 3/4 in, wide, but
lower rail is 1-112times as wide as the top rail.All the lights are the same don't rip them yet. Leave them as part
sizeand evenly divided. of a wider board.
SHIM STORAGE
Two matched router bits cut allthe profiles.
The cope cutter shapes the ends of all the
rails and muntins. lt also forms a short tenon
and a rabbet to receivethe glass.The bead
cutter shapes the long edges of the stiles,
rails and muntins. lt also forms a rabbet. +-BEARTNG-->
Both bits may be adjustedto fine-tunethe
tenon's thickness.Yousimply take apart the
bit and add shims abovethe bearing.These
shims come with the bit and are stored
under the nut and washers.

DTTRMINE.THE LTNGTH
oF THE Ralls AND MuNTlNs
Cut every part of the door to exact length in these stePs.Use the actual stiles
to calculate the precise length of the rails and muntins'
-l Q Us" the same Process to calculate

Cut two spacers to spread the stiles C) AAA the tength of two tenons to the
I to the door's final width. This l spacer and mark this total distance Jtf," vertical muntin boards' length'
method prevents you from making a on a rail blank.With the Freud bits, two Position two 3/4-in.-thickblocks to stand
math error with awkward fractions in tenons are equalto 20 mm (about 25132 in for the 3/4-in.-widehorizontalmuntins.
the next step. in.) Crosscut the rails and horizontal Cut two top and bottom spacers the
muntin boardsto this length. same length.Thencut a middle spacerto
fit. Add 20 mm to these spacers to mark
and cut the verticalmuntin boards.
Copr rHE EwDs

Next, cut tenons on the end grain of every part. Coping the ends before
cutting the beads minimizes problems with grain tear-out.
A S*up the cope cutter. For a 718-in.- f, Test cut an extra piece of rail stock.
Ttni* door like this one, raisethe bit J Clamp a backing board to the work-
so the top cutter is 5/8 in. above the piece to prevent tear-out. Use a push so it fits the mortise made by a 5/16-in.
table. Positionthe router table fence so pad to keep the workpiece flat on the cfrisel.lf the tenon is too thin, add shims
the cutter bearing is perfectly even with table and your fingOrs out of harm's above the bearing (see inset). Add the
the fence or 1164in. proud.Thisassures way. same shims to the bead cutter.When the
a full-depth cut, which is necessaryfor tenon is correctlysized,cope the ends of
a good fit. allthe railsand muntin boards.

RoLJT THE BEnn
The bead goes on the long grain of the stiles, rails and muntins.
TRout beads on Q nip the muntin boards. Use a push ft Rout the second side of the
I tne inside edges LJ block with a stop and hold-down q " / m u n t i n s .U s e t h e s a m e p u s h b l o c k
of the stiles and board so you can keep the guard and as you did on the tablesaw.This time
rails. Positionthe bit splitteron your saw.The exact width of the push block is flipped over and the
so the lower knife is level with the rab- this cut-3/4 in.-must be the same as hold-down removed.
bet made by the coping cut (see inset). the width of the stand-inmuntin blocks
Cut beads on both sides of the muntin you used to calculate the vertical Caution:You must use two featherboards
boards. muntin's length in Photo 3. t o h o l d t h e w o r k p i e c es q u a r et o t h e t a b l e .
Cur rHE MonTrsrs

Most routed doors merely have cope and stick joints. Mortise-and-tenon
joints strengthen a divided light door to carry the extra weight of
the glass.
SUPPORT
1n Markmortises I I fUart the outer end of each rail {.} Cut mortises in the muntins
I\-f on the stiles -E..L mortise that will receive a rail. J
-.f,6"* halfway through from both
directly from the Typically,this mark is about 3/4 in. from sides. Placea support block under the
rails and horizontal the stile'send. muntin so its top edge is within range
muntins. Positionthe muntins with the
of the machine'shold-down.Cut 1/2-in.-
spacersyou made earlier (see photo 3).
deep mortisesin the rails and stiles.
Draw pencil lines along both sjdesof the
tenons (see inset).Mark mortisesfor the
verticalmuntins in the center of the raits
and horizontalmuntins.
HnuNcH THE Ralls
Remove the outer part of the rail tenons to fit the mortises.
'l 1 X Pare the tenons to width. Check

C) Mark the waste on the tenon's 1 zl nemove most of the waste with
I:t a mortising bit.You don't have to IJ the fit of all the tenons in the
IJ end with a combination square.
move the machine's fence. This is the mortises. File small bevels on the ends
same setup you used for cutting mortis- of all the tenons so they're easier to
es in the rails and stiles. insert into the mortises.
AssEMBLETHE Doon
The entire door must be glued at one time. It's best to work directly on a large,
flat assemblytable so you can slide each piece home before clamping it.
1G.Gut 1/16 in. off the ends of the 1 ?Clu" the door. Squeeze-out 1 O Nait small retaining strips to hold
It vertical muntin tenons. As origi- I / around the beads can be difficult IOthe glass. Predrillangled holes in
nally routed, each tenon is slightly over to clean up, so use a minimum of glue. the 3/16-in.squarestrips using a nipped-
3/8 in. long. That's too long for' the Sand and finish the door before You off brad as a drill bit. Support the muntin
through mortises in the horizontal install the glass. with a spacer block wedged in the oirpo:
muntins, which are 314in. wide.' site opening. Use a nail set to keep the
hammer's head awaY from the glass.
r (800)3344107, www'Freudrools'com
Sources cMT, (Bgg)26g-24g7,www.cmtusa.comDivided-lightdoorset,#800.525.11,S228. FreudTools,
stock, #99270, $1 50. r MLCS, (8OO)
533-9298, www.mlcswoodworking'com window-sash
Divided-lightcabinetdoor bit set for 13/16- to 1-in.-thick
set, #8894, $85. Miniaturestile'and-railbitsfor 112-to
bits for 7/g in. to 1-112in.thickstock: a single reversiblebit, #8893, $55;a twe'piece matched
3/zt-in.-thickstock, #8848 $70.
American Woodworker JULY2oo5 61
For my home, dark walnut is too formal, light maple too stark.
I prefer working with American hardwoods rather than imported
species, so when I want a medium-toned wood to relax with in my
home, I build with cherry. It's fairly easy to work, like walnut or
red oak, but the real appeal for me is its rich appearance.
Exceptional Curly Figure

Curly figure is quite common in cherry.As you walk
a r o u n da f i g u r e db o a r d ,t h e d a r k a r e a st u r n l i g h t a n d t h e
light areasgo dark,just like the luster of fine silk. Even
a s m a l l a m o u n t o f s u b t l ec u r l y f i g u r e u n d e r a c l e a r
f i n i s h c a n m a k e m a g i c . T h i ss t u n n i n g3 - D e f f e c ti s
c a fl e d c h a t o y a n c y . L a r g e - s c a l e l u m b e r d e a l e r s g e n - i
erally don't separate curly from straight-grained I
b o a r d sW. h e n l u m b e r y a r db o a r d sa r e p l a n e dh i t -
or-miss,you can easily spot the curly wood. With
some practiceyou can even spot chatoyancyin
r o u g h ,u n p l a n e dl u m b e r .J u s t l o o k f o r d a r k r i p p l e s
that go acrossthe width of the board.
Berruarethe Phantom
Cherry needs unobstructedexposureto light and air to turn color
evenly.Don't leavea lamp, book or other solid object on top of
y o u r c h e r r yf u r n i t u r ef o r a n e x t e n d e dl e n g t ho f t i m e d u r i n g i t s
first year.Thewood underneaththe object won't darkenas fast,
which resultsin a light-coloredphantom "shadow" that may
never completelydisaPPea r.
This problem startswhen you first plane rough cherry boards.
A f t e r p l a n i n g ,i f y o u l e a v et h e m p i l e dw i l l y - n i l l yo v e r n i g h t y, o u ' l l
get shadow lines where they overlapped.At the end of a day's
work, I stand all my boards on edge, separatedfrom one another,
s o a l l f a c e sg e t e q u a le x p o s u r et o l i g h t a n d a i r .
l-!
The biggest challenge in working with cherry is

to select boards that harmoniously blend with
each other. I've spent hours at a lumberyard
picking through piles of cherry, looking for
the right family of boards, and the extra
time is worth it.
Choose Carefully,
Don't Stain
Cherry boards come in many shades.
I look for boardsthat are similar in color
and figure so I can use a clear finish and let
the wood change color naturally. Many nonwood-
workers assume cherry is very dark and has little or no
figure.That's becausemost commercial cherry furniture is
stained or toned to even out color differencesand blend in light-coloredsapwood. =.*
I understand the economics of this practice,but in my small ihop, I consider stain a last
resort. lt simply obscuresthe magic.
Buy a Log
some custom sawmills go to a lot of trouble to restackwhole logs after
they've been cut and dried (see sources, page 6s).This is a gold mine for
cherry prospectors. Naturally, this wood will cost a bit more. Most cus-
tom mills have a $300 or so minimum order.you can buy an entire log
(often called a flitch) or neighboring boards,depending on the mill,s
sales policy. Keep in mind that allthe wood in a log won,t necessarilybe
the highest grade. some boards may have knots and checks.Toavoid
any misunderstandings,it's best to phone in rather than e-mail an order.
Sarnra Giant Board

When it comes to matching color and figure, the next
best thing to buying a cut-up log is to saw one your-
self.Youdon't need a sawmill in your backybrd,just
a good bandsaw; Look for the longest,widest, tt,ict-
9st cherry board you can find. For a project requir-
ing a modest amount of solid wood, you mighi get
all the parts from one humongous board. Maybe it,ll :':riirJl;6"
-1{
.; i€r. ir:
take two monsters. For maximum yield, rip and
resaw the board before planing.

Whether you're visiting a local lumberyard or
ordering cherry by phone, you've got to know
the wood and keep up with the lingo. I was
recently surprised to learn that you can buy a
super-premium grade of cherry if you know
what to askfor.
The'All-Red" Grade
Be on the alert for light-coloredsapwood when you select cher-
ry boards. lt's a dramatically different color than the heartwood.
It's perfectly OK to have sapwood on the hidden, inside face of
your boards, but sapwood on the outside face can be very hard
to disguise.
Sapwood isn't considered a defect when most cherry is grad-
ed.That means Select and Better cherry boards, the highest stan-
dard gradb, may well contain lots of sapwood, or none at all.
Some lumber dealers select cherry boards that have little or
no sapwood and sellthem at a premium price.Theymight be
labeled as "all-red" or some variation of that phrase.This is a
grade that has not been standardizednationally,so the percent-
age of sapwood allowed varies from dealer to dealer.
LornrerGrade = Savings
Prime cherry costs from $5 to $9 per bd. ft. Only a small per-
centageis designatedas the highest Selectand Bettergrade.
Grading is based on minimum widths and lengths and a low
incidence of knots. No. 1 Common is a lower, less-expensive
grade, and there'splenty available.Youjust have to plan
around the knots or glue narrow boardsto make wide ones.
Watch Out
for Gum Pockets
Gum pocketsare small black streaksthat occa-
sionally form under the bark. Gum pockets
aren't rated as defects when cherry boards are
graded, but they can mar the appearanceof an
otherwise gorgeous board. On the other hand,
placed judiciously, gum pocketscan add charac-
ter to an otherwise plain surface.Whatever your
philosophy, it's a good idea to look for gum
pockets before you cut full-size boards.
Sources HearneHardwoodS,(888)814-0007,www.hearnehardwoods.comr Page62 photo and quote from the book: Isos. Most+, Artistry inWood,
by Thomas Moser with Brad Lemley,@2002.(Usedwith permissionof ChronicleBooks LLC, San Francisco,CA; visit us at www.chroniclebooks.com.)
American Woodworker .lut-v zoos 65
P a l m - g r i p5 - i n .r a n d o m - o r b i t asl a n d e r
\Z
z
P i s t o l - g r i p6 - i n .r a n d o m - o r b i t asl a n d e r cc
I
2
F
Random-orbit sanders come in three E.

F
a
different body types: palm grip, pistol l
J
J
grip and right angle. We tested the first o

LU
two: the palm- and pistol-grip styles.
z
Most woodworkers prefer palm-grip a
a
LU
sanders because they're lightweight and zf
can be operated with one hand. Palm- cc
LIJ
grip sanders are only available with 5-in. F
z
l
discs. All sanders with 6-in. discs are I
v
(J
equipped with pistol-style grips. Their
F
increased weight and torque generally s
t
require two hands to control, but most I
o_
pistol-grip sanders may also be used one- G

(9
handed. They have an additional palm F
I
grip above the motor. A few 5-in. sanders o_
uJ
also have pistol grips because this design E
o_
l
is standard in Europe. o
w
Some random-orbit sanders run on (J
E.
compressed air rather than electricity. 2

These pneumatic models are lightrveight (-)
F
LjJ
E,
and very powerful, but they require a o
L
large air compressor to operate. We didn't tr

a
include pneumatic models in this test. E
L
a
= F
(E
\z E.
U
v E
o
= U

DISC ROTATION
With most tools, more horsepower

means faster stock removal. Random-
orbit sanders are somewhat different.
The orbit's size prirnarily determines
horv quickly a machine sands, given the
same disc diameter. Orbits vary from a
miniscule 3/32 in. to a huge I/4 in.,
which is almost three times as large (see
Chart. page 74).
Sanders with large orbits cut faster than

sanders with small orbits simply
b e c a u s el a r g e o r b i t s c o v e r m u c h m o r e
ground in the same amount of time.
Larger orbits leave more visible swirl
marks, however, becausethe loops are
bigger.
The orbit's size also determines how easy

it is to see swirl marks. A small orbit
makes small swirl marks, which are hard
to see. Large orbits make large swirl
marks that are more visible. No matter
which sander yolr use, however, it's good
practice to remove the swirls altogether
The disc on a random-orbit sander moves in two independent by hand sanding prior to finishing. The
ways: It oscillates and rotates. This should produce a smooth finish smaller the orbits. the easier this will be.
without visible scratches, but successalso depends on proper tech-
nique (see "Correct Speed and Pressllre," page 69).
Oscillation produces tiny circles, or "orbits." Each orbit is always
the same diameter on any individual sander, but that diameter
varies from machine to machine. Sanders with large orbits (more than
The disc's rotation speed varies with the amount of pressure yoll 3/16 in.) are designed for quick stock
put on the sander. As you push harder, the rotation slows; however, removal. Sanders with small orbits (less
the disc continues to oscillate and make the same size orbits. than 1/8 in.) are designed for finishing
Slowing the disc's rotation makes the pattern of swirl marks you work. Orbit size on most sanders falls some-
leave behind much more visible (see "Correct Speed and where in between. Two Gin. models-
Pressure"). Metabo SXE450 and Ridgid R2610-can
switch from large to small orbits.
68 American \{roodrvorker- JULy 2oo5

?""{il"iv i''.A.rj i t:u;'fi{"}'iv Connecr Speeo AND Pnessune
t' j -i }
;,,{ rSlr,irJ l}| t lj r; {:'.4y.,ti;3-t..:7
FEED DIRECTION
\---_--->/
The two keys to good results are to slow
your arrn action and lighten your pres-
sure. Lots of woodworkers routinely com-
mit tr,vo errors: They move the sander too
fast and push down too hard. That reac-
tion is only natural, though. When you
sand by hand, both techniques get the Your goal is to create an even pattern of
job done more quickly with no apparent similarly shaped swirl marks or loops
(see upper left box).That'seasy if you go
ill effect. With a randomorbit sander,
slow and apply light pressure.
however, both techniques are counter-
productive, because they produce more
noticeable scratch patterns.
H ciLl FAs-t- s r-iil.]

u i-i] Too Mucu Speeo
I i"u:#\.r'r :;4A,l.jil i* E ?
To make an even scratch pattern, slow to

a crawl. You should take 5 to 10 seconds
to go 6 in. Going too fast creates an
uneven pattern, with long, drawn-out
swirl marks at the top of the sanding path
and a denser pattern of bunched up
marks at the bottom. This also leaves an
uneven surface, with more wood taken Rapidlypushing a random-orbitsander
back and forth produces loops of
off at the path's bottom than at is top. uneven shape.The loops at the top of
the sanding path are stretched out,
which makesthem more visible.
H ''-;nlv H l'. R f) *'( i {:i t-i L,il} Too MucH Pnessunr

1, 'r=7,;L-SS DG\"t"rt,; 13
Light pressure is best, about 2 to 4 lbs.

(That's about the weight of your arm.)
Light pressure allows the disc to rotate at
top speed and make the most evenly dis-
tributed swirl pattern. It's true that push-
ing down harder actually removes wood
faster, but most of the time it's counter-
Pushing down too hard slows the
productive. That's because pushing too
rotation of the disc.The result is long,
hard leaves behind a stretched-out pat- deep tracks, rather than a more desirable
tern of swirl marks that will take even random patternof loops.
more work to remove with the next grit.
It can also create dished-out areas that
won't be visible until you apply a finish.
p '".; 1 i'ti:-.
?j.';{}9, rAi"\'D C*lUS
-,;i:,,,.,...1*_
,..;:..,,.
$ r r r * r L J LI[ ]m r ; r ' A 5 * i r x .
i-{}{}p DiSCS ? fiH A 6*tr.,t. $ArSilHri?
All the sanderswe tested take hook-andJoop Our preference for all-around work is a
LOOPS ON DISC
(H&L) discs.They're very user-friendly.You Fin. sander. It's easy to maneuver and
i.; won't ever throw awayan H&L disc before comfortable to hold in various positions. A
it's totally worn out, because you can put Gin. sander cuts faster, however, because
it on and take it off repeatedly. That's is disc is larger and its motor more power-
ideal when you're going through multi- fuI. A Gin. sander is about twice as heary as
;, ple grits while sanding small batches of a Fin. sander, so it's awkward to use in a
parts. You can also leave a disc on a vertical position. If you've got lots of large,
sander for weeks at a time and have no flat surfaces to sand, though, a Gin. sander
problem removing it. An H&L disc is rela- can be a real time-saver.
tively soft and flexible. It can easily dip
into slightly low spots, which saves time
sanding.
On the negative side, H&L discs are about
nvice as expensive as pressure-sensitive adhe-
sive (PSA) discs, but prices are falling. As an
additional expense, the H&L pad attached
Hook-and-loop discs
to the sander eventually loses its gripping
can be used repeat-
edly until they're ability and must be replaced. Average cost
totally worn out. for a pad is about $25.
i i ' " - t ' - t ' t i' ' . L3i; ;i3 L,E T {}

"'"i
''.,-::-i-:;'i'':ii:'.-..;;.,'.|:||-...-::..:...
Yes. We recommend buying a hook-and-loop (H&L) sander that

can accept a pressure-sensitive-adhesive (PSA) pad and discs (see
Chart, page 74). PSA discs are not as widely available as H&L discs,
however. Some sanders have PSA-pad versions, but they're not
inclued in our test and chart.
The PSA system has two benefits. With PSA paper, you can sand A 6-in. sander works quickly on large areas
a surface absolutely dead flat because the discs don't have loops. becauseits disc has almost 50 percent more
The loop backing on an H&L disc is somewhat squishy. This can sanding surfacethan a 5-in. sander.All 6-in.
sanders have two-handed pistol grips.
cause it to dig into the softer sections of a plainsawn board. The
other benefit of the PSA system is that you'll save money when you
sand lots of wood with the same grit. Bulk quantities of PSA
paper are less expensive than H&L in bulk.
On the down side, a PSA disc usually
can't be reused because the adhesive
back is easily fouled with sawdust.
You put the disc on, sand
until you're done and
then throw it away.
Pressure-sensitive-adhesive discs cost much

less than hook-and-loopdiscs but u s u a l l yw i l l A palm-grip S-in. sander is easy to hold on
stickto the pad only one time. both vertical and horizontalsurfaces.
70 American Woodworker JULy 2oo5

#
ff
SHoULD I euY
A SANDER WITH A DUS
CCLLECTION BAG OR
til A CANISTTN?
d Both work, up to a point.
CANISTER
Cloth and paper bags are
about 60 to 70 percent effec-
tive; canisters with pleated
microfilters are about 80 to
90 percent effective. Pleated
filters are much more effec-
tive in capturing the smallest
dust particles, which are the
greatest threat to your
health. But no type of
onboard collection is as
i.,i,i
- J t - .
I lirj effective as hooking up to

Emptvvour a shop vacuum.
baeioTt6n! Paper bags are disposable.
It.c a nfi l l u p b e fo rey o u When they fill up, you just
k n o w i t. Wh e n th a t toss them out. This avoids
h a p p e n s ,d u s t b a c k s creating the cloud of dust
up into the motor. All that a cloth bag makes when
those gritty particles you shake it out.
will slowly destroy it. Both canisters and the sup-
No kidding ! ports under paper bags stick
out quite a bit. They can
get in the way when
you're working in tight
quarters. Some models have
i;ar;++iiiP;rr optional cloth bags for these
situations.
.. ,ilni
No. This is a m4jor difference among machines. Most sanders have

round dust ports for directly hooking up a hose, but others have oval
or rectangular ports that require an additional adapter from the
manufacturer. Dustport diameters are all over the map. Some
sanders have ports sized to fit one of three common hoses (7-l/4in.,
l-3/8 in. or 2-l/4 in. outside diameter). Other sanders with odd-
sized round ports require a manufacturer's hose or adapter or a
universal stepped adapter (see Source, page 74). It's fmstrating
that neither dust ports nor hoses have been standardized.
Despite that, vacuum collection works amazingly well and has
three major benefits. You'll get better results, your shop will be
cleaner and your lungs will be healthier. It's the way to go!
Dust collection r m p r o v e s
d r a m a t i c a l l yw h e n y o u h o o k
u p a v a c u u mh o s e .
funerican \Vooclworker JULY 2oo5 71
Is your san
uringthis test, we noticedthat
Most sanders have a simple some sandersrun much more
device called a pad brake that is smoothly than others. The
always on. It keeps the motor smooth runnersare easierto controland
from spinning too fast when you more comfortableto hold for long peri-
lift the sander off your work. The ods. Sanders that didn't run smoothly
brake prevents the disc from dig- either vibrated too much, wobbled
ging into the wood when you set it excessivelyor shook so much that they
down on a new area. A brake can would unexpectedlyrun off in random
wear out, but it's inexpensive and directions.Who wants one of those?
easy to fix.
ROTATINGRUB SURFACE
The simplest and most common
pad brake is a stationary plastic ring
l,,t :1 l. ., "' :,::'.t",.:.-:i-'-.
-,-'
that constantly rubs against the
pad. Eventually, the ring No individualmake or model stood out
wears down. Replace it as the best or the worst, for one simple
when your motor revs way reason:ldenticalsandersfrom the same
too high as you remove it manufacturermay actuallybehavequite
from a workpiece. differently.
Permanently removing Let's take three hypotheticalsanders
the pad brake increases with the same model number.SanderA
the speed of the disc so it shakes but doesn't vibrate or wobble.
cuts slightly faster. This Sander B doesn't shake, but it does
shouldn't harm the motor. vibrate and wobble. SanderC runs per-
but it could void your war- fectly fine. Of all the sanderswe tested,
ranty. And you will lose the no- approximately10 percent had unaccept-
digging-in benefit. able levelsof shake.wobble or vibration.
We concluded that buying by brand
name alone won't guaranteethat you'll
get a sanderthat runs as smoothly as a
top. You'vegot to try it out.
Our advice is to make sure you can

Ever sand through veneer? Variable exchangea new sanderif you don't like
speed lets you slow the disc so you it. Then take it for a test drive,using the
can more closely monitor your tests describedat right.
progress. That's helpful when you're Don't expect your sander to be per-
leveling a face frame with a plywood fect. Your goal is simply to find out
cabinet, for example. Slightly slowing whether you've receiveda substandard
the maximum speed also allows you unit. The odds are slim. Fortunately,the
to find a machine's sweet spot, where next unit on the shelf from the same
noise and vibration are minimized. manufactureris probablyOK.
Many models come in both single-
speed and variable-speed versions.
It's not a big deal, but we think the
few extra bucks for variable speed is
worth it.
72 American Woodworker JULy 2oo5

der a smooth runner?
I THE Corurnol Tesr
Turn on your sander and hold it by the cord's strain reliever.You

should be able to easily control which directionit goes.
Slightly press a partially filled Styrofoam

cup on top of your sander.The ripples on
the coffee's surface show you how much
the sandervibrates.
A sander wobbles in use when its top slowly rotates off center, like
a child'stoy top about to fall over.This is the least annoying of the
three problemsa sandermay have-and it'sthe only one you can fix.
To measure wobble, unplug your sander, remove the sanding
disc and butt the machineup to a pile of blocksand a ruler.Slowly
rotatethe sanding pad by hand. lf the sander'stop wobbles away
from the ruler by more than 1/16in., it's too much. Mark the pad at
the point where the top is farthest from the ruler. Waves around the perimeter and a calm
interior indicate an acceptable level of
vibration.
Remove the pad from the Shim the "low" spot with small
sander.Mark the same spot on piecesof thin tape. Reassemble Waves covering the whole surface indicate
the sander'sdriving plate. the sander and repeat the test a high level of vibration.
with the ruler. Add or subtract
shims untilthe wobble is mini-
mized.

All random-orbit sanders we tested perform well ($135). A Gin. largeorbit sandeq such as the Ridgid
when you've figured out the right technique: light R2610 ($f49), works the fastest.If a smooth finish is
pressure and slow feed (see "Correct Speed and your most important goal, choose a slower<utting,
Pressure,"page 69). smallorbit sander, such as the Porter{able 333VSK
The rate at which a sander cuts depends on two ($801.Mary other sandershavea compromise mid*ize
things: thp disc's diameter and the orbit's diameter. orbit.
A Gin. sander does more work in less time than a In any case, look for a sander that's easy to hook
5-in. sander,but it's also much bulkier. A sander with up to a vacuum hose. The benefits of sanding with-
a l/4.in. orbit removes wood faster than a sander out dust are so great that we feel this is a must. We
with a l/&in. orbit. Larger orbits also produce larg- also prefer a sander with variable speed, an optional
er swirl marks, however. PSA pad and a low noise level. Some manufacturers
If your primary goal is to remove wood fast, choose offer less-expensivemodels similar to those listed
a largeorbit sander,such as the Fin. Bosch 3725DEVS below that don't have variable speed.
5" sanders
Bosch 1295DVSK $80 Palm 3.5 Y Y 3 mm .118'
Bosch 3107DVS $s0 Pistol 5.0 Y Y 5 mm .197"
Bosch 3725DEVS $135 Pistol 5.1 Y Y 5 mm .197"
Craftsman 11695 $45 Palm 3.8 N Y 4 mm .157"
Craftsman 27989 $79 Palm 3.8 N Y 111U. .100'
DeWalt D26453 $84 Palm 4.0 Y Y 3132" .094'
Festool ES125EO $tss Palm 2.4 N Y 2 mm .079"
Makita 805010 $66 Palm 2.6 Y N 118" .125"
Makita BO5012K $tq Palm 2.9 Y Y 118" .125"
Makita BO5021K $106 Pistol 3.1 Y Y 118" .125"
Metabo SXE425 $t+s Pistol 5.2 N Y 3/16" .197"
Milwaukee 6019-6 $8+ Palm 2.9 Y N 3132 .094',
Porter-Cable 333VSK $80 Palm 3.5 Y Y 3t32', .094"
Ridsid R2600 $70 Palm 3.0 Y Y 3t32', .094'
Ryobi RS241 $ss Palm 2.8 Y N 3t32" .094'
Ryobi RS2SOVS $50 Palm 3.5 Y Y 5132', .156"
skil 7490-01 $40 Palm 2.9 N N 2.5 mm .O98'
6" sanders
Bosch 3727DEVS $150 Pistol 5.2 Y Y 4 mm .157'
Festool ETS150/5EO $235 Pistol 4.0 N Y 5 mm s .197"
Makita 806030 $169 Pistol 5.1 Y Y 118 .125
Metabo sxE450 $175 Pistol 6.5 Y Y 1/8'& . 1 2 5&
"
114" .250'
Ridgid R2610 $139 Pistol 6.0 N Y 1/8'& .125'&
1/4 .250
Source HighlandHardware,(8OOl241-6748,www.highlandhardware.com
7/8-in.to 1-1/4-in.Flexiblestep Adapter,$3.30,#921072.1-in.to 2-1/2-in.
FlexibleStep Adapter,$5.
.

R r o c r oR 2 6 O O ,$ z O
Many 5-in. professional-qtrality sanders
perform very well, but this otte stands otrt
as a good value. It comes with a lifetime
service agreement that offers free replace-
ments for two normal-wear items: the
hook-and-loop pad and pad brake. Ard it
readily accepts al-l/{in vaclltlrn hose.
C a n i s t e r2 N3 NA d 89 (800\ 267-2499,www. boschtools.com
Canister 2 N3 NA 8 90 (8001267-2499,www. boschtools.com
Canister 2 N3 NA 8 87 267-2499,www. boschtools.com

18001.
Cloth bag 1-3/1

6" 8 89 (800],377-7414, www.sears.com
Cloth bag 1-114", 2-114" 8 90 (8001377-7414, www.sears.com
Cloth bag 1-1t4" 8 90 (800)433-9258,www.dewalt.com
Paper bag 1-118"6 g7 84 (888)337-8600,www.festool-usa.com
Cloth bag 7t8',6 8 85 ( 8 0 0 )4 6 2 - 5 4 8 2w, w w . m ak i t a t o o l s . c o m
Cloth bag 718"6 8 88 (800)462-5482,www. makitatools.com
Cloth bag 7lg 6 8 88 ( 8 0 0 )4 6 2 - 5 4 8 2w, w w . m a k i t a t o o l s . c o m
Paper bag 1-3l8" 8 87 ( 8 0 0 )6 3 8 - 2 2 6 4w. w w . m e t ab o u s a . c o m
Cloth bag N4 NA 8 82 ( 8 0 0 )7 2 9 - 3 8 7 8w, w w . m il w a u k e e t o o l . c o m
1 "6 (800)487-8665,www.portercable.com
- a
C an i s t er 84
Cloth bag 1-114",2-114" 8 87 (8001474-3443,www. ridgid.com
Cloth bag 1-1t4" 8 88 ( 8 0 0 )5 2 5 - 2 5 7 9w, w w . r y o b i t o o l s . c o m
Cloth bag 1-1t4', 8 89 ( 8 0 0 )5 2 5 - 2 5 7 9w, w w . r y o b i t o o l s . c o m
C a n i s t e r2 1" 6 8 83 (871| 7 54-5999,www.skiltools.com
Canister 2 N3 NA 8 87 (800],267-2499,www. boschtools.com
Paper bag 1-1t8"6 g7 88 (888)337-8600,www.festool-usa.com
Cloth bag 7/8 6 g7 83 ( 8 0 0 )4 6 2 - 5 4 8 2w, w w . m a k i t a t o o l s . c o m
Paper bag 1-3/8" h

88 (800)638-2264,www. metabousa.com
Cloth bag 1-3l8" o 87 (800)474-3443,www.ridgid.com
1. PSA-backed h o o k - a n d - l o o pp a d p r o v i d e d . 4 . A d a o t e r f o r 1 - 1 1 2 "h o s e a v a i l a b l e f r o m 7. 8 holes with a center hole.

2 . C a n i s t e rc o n t a i n sm i c r o f i l t e r . ma nufactu rer. 8. 8-hole pad available from manufacturer.
3 . A d a p t e r sf o r 1 - 1 1 4 " , 1 - 3 l 8a"n d 1 - 1 1 2h" o s e 5. lnside diameter unless noted. 9. Also available with a 3-mm orbit diameter
a v a i l a b l ef r o m m a n u f a c t u r e r . 6. Outside diameter. (ETS150/3EO).
Arlerican \\krocll'orkct' JULY 2oo5 75

n
3/9"
BEADING
BIT
Cur AND
ASSEMBLE
THE Panrs
Start by calculating the size of
the parts you need for your quilt
according to the Cutting List (see
page 86). You can machine your I Rout the profileson the valanceand trim boards beforeyou cut them
I to final length.Twocommon router bits are all you need to make this
material to final width and thickness project: a 3/8-in.cove bit and a 3/8-in beading bit.
at this time, but don't cut the pieces
to final length yet.
Next rout the profile on the edge
and cut the groove on the back of
the board you plan to use for the
valance pieces (A and B, Fig. A, page
85; Photo 1). Then miter them to -
final length and cut biscuit slots in co
I
the ends (Photo 2). Do a rest assem-
Y.
bly of the three valance parts and z
E
double-check the length for the L
2
light board (C). o
It's important that the light board k(E
a
not be too long or too short, f
J
J
because it would cause the valance a
o
ends to flare in or out and prevent U
F
the miterjoints from closing proper- z

Q cut biscuitsin the mitered ends of the valanceboards.Positionthe a
ly. When you have the light board ,€ slots near the miter's inside edge.Thispreventsthe slot from coming <J)
uJ
J
cut to the correct length, glue and through the board'sface.Theboard that the lights mount on will fit into z
l
the groove in the backof the valanceboards.
clamp it to the valance boards. You ul
F
z
can skip running clamps the length f
-
-
of the quilt rack if you drive some v
E
\ brad nails through the end valance
o-
boards into the ends of the light
I
board (Photo 3).
E.
Next cut and fit the trim boards

and screw cleat (D, E and F) to final o
I
length and glue thgm to the valance

z
and light-board assembly (Photo 4). a
z
Then make the clamp boards (G r
o
-
and H). z
(t
LU
Make the final parts: the cover '2
board (J), spacer blocks (K and L)
tr
(J
and the plate stop (M). Assemble t.ll
these parts with glue and check that o

E
they fit into the rop of the assembled
. quilt hanger. Q C t u e t h e v a l a n c eb o a r d sa r o u n dt h e l i g h t b o a r d . Y o uc a n r e m o v et h e
r.,lclamps very quicklyif you pin the joint with brad nails.

Materials: Tools: Hardware: Cost:
Four1x6 boardsthatare Planer, routertable Low-voltagehalogenlights, About $100 for this
r a ny o u rq u i l t
i8 in. longeth tablesaw, biscuitloiner, transformer,screw eyes, 65-in.-longversion,
drilldriver,level,studfinder screw hooks without the quilt
314"x 118"-
LOW-
VOLTAGE
LIGHT
3/8'1
covE
3/8"
BEADING
3/8"
EYE
.ff.,.,^,
The flexible desi.gn WASHER.
HEAD SCREW
10"-12'O.C.
easilyadapts to arryquilt srze. ?tP *u+"
Simpl. joinery makesit easyto build. i!:' oR5=otu=
LIP
7l Use spring clamps to glue on the trim board and screw ( tnstattthe lights and the transformeron the bottom
-f r.-f side of the light board. Snap the light and lens onto the
cleat.Thetrim board covers most o f t h e b r a d n a i l h o l e s .
H i d e a n y r e m a i n i n gh o l e sw i t h w o o d filler. mounting ring and run all the wires, exceptthe power
cord, through the holes to the top side of the light board.

\
MoUNT THE LrcHrs
Now turn your attintion to
drilling the holes for the wiring (Fig.
A). The lights' spacing will depend
on the overall length of your quilt
hanger. It is not critical, but I found
spacing them between ll and 14 in.
apart to be about right. After the
holes for the wiring have been
drilled, you can sand and finish the
quilt hanger.
When the finish is dry install the
lights (Photo 5). Screw the mounting
ring on; then snap the lamp holder
and lens into place. The wires run ft Uarf a level line on your wall with a laser or bubble level.Use mask-
through the holes and are hidden on Lt ing tape to mark the location of the wall studs, so you have a secure
placeto screw in the quilt hanger.
the top side of *re light board.
Hnruc lr oruYoun Wau-

Locate the studs in the wall and
mark them with masking tape. Strike
a level line at the height you want
your quilt hanger installed (Photo
6). Drill holes in the screw cleat to
match the stud spacing and attach
the quilt hanger to the wall with
some long screws. This is really a twG.
person job, so ask someone to help
you hold the quilt hanger in place
while you drive in the screws (Photo
7). After the hanger is attached to
the wall, screw on the cover board
(Photo 8) and fasten the quilt
between the clamp boards (Photo FJ Arccnthe quilt hangerto the wall. Drill holes in line with the wall
9). Now simply engage the screw eyes I studs in the screw cleat on the backof the quilt hanger.After the quilt
hanger is mounted,you can remove the exposedmaskingtape.
on the hooks (Photo 10) and enjoy.
Oty. Dimensions (Th xWx Ll
A Frontvalanceboard 5/8"x 5" x quilt size + 2-1/2'

B Endvalanceboards 5/8"x5"x6"
C Light board 3/4" x 5-112'x quilt size + 1-3l8"
D Fronttrim board 1f2"x 2" x quiltsize+ 3-1/2'
E End trim boards 1 1 2x" 2 " x 6 - 1 / 2 "
F Screw cleat 3f4" x314"x quilt size + 1-114"
G Frontclamp board 3/4"x 2" x quiltsize+ 1"
H Backclamp board 5/8"x 2" x quiltsize+ 1"
J Cover board 114"x4-9116"x quiltsize+ 1-3l16"
K End spacerblocks 112"x4-9116"x1"
L Sidespacerblocks 112"x1"x4"
M Platestop 114"x 112"x quiltsize+ 1-3l16"
Source Woodworkers HardwareSupply,(800)383-0130.www.woodworkershardware.comLow-voltagefour-lightkit with transformer,

(transformercan handleup to six lights),#WKSR120LCS,$42 per kit. Individuallow-voltagehalogentights,#WKAL2OLB, $6.50ea.
#8 x 1-1l4-in.washer-head
screws.#SCLPBX114, $4 per 100.

II
I
i
I
Q tnstattthe cover board with screws.Thecover board hidesthe wires

\_) and servesas a shelf to displayplatesor other collectibles.
q u i l t b y e n g a g i n gt h e s c r e we y e s i n
1 n H a n gt h e
I \ - t t h e c l a m p i n gb o a r d st o h o o k s b e l o w t h e l i g h t
board. lt's an easy,one-personjob. Run the power
c o r d b e h i n dt h e q u i l t ,t u r n o n t h e l i g h t sa n d e n j o y !
editedD1lDavid Olson
Moarle BaTDSAW
Horsing my bandsaw out of the way
was a real pain until I installed a pair of
large casters (see Source, below). Now
my saw has a built-in two-wheel cart.
During use, the saw sits firmly on the
floor, because the wheels don't touch
the ground. They're also out of the way.
ripping.T#lJifffi?X
". :ll;
you get the hang of
it, because the saw
is topheavy and
awkward to hold.
Although casters make
this cumbersome piece of
machinery much easier to
move, you should only install
them if you're comfortable
handling heavy loads. CE
TJJ
F
z
Jock Holmm, l
-
Y
E
Source k
AtlantaCaster -
(L
(7701492-0682 (r
www.atlantacaster.com (9
o
F
Sin. rigid casters,
I
#16TM05201R, (L
t
$ 1 2e a . z
<t)
z
I
o
-
z
E
uJ
2
tr
t!
E
o
F
E
t
z
o
a
z
I
o
-t
tr
E
o
F
o
UJ
Stabilize the saw with your foot when you tilt it back
and set it down. Be careful! The wheels make the
saw hard to control until you find its balance point.
L
H
$
fi
iii
fi
LTcHTWEtcHT
ExreNStoN WINGS
Extension wings on the miter saw make cutting long stock a breeze. My shopmade wings
install and knock down in seconds and they're as light as feathers. My secret? The wings
are made from a hollow-core door. After ripping the door to width, I pushed the internal
honeycomb pieces back and glued new pine side rails between the faces. Then I installed
swingdown legs for stability. Steel bed-rail fasteners hold the wings level with the saw table.
After engaging the fastener, I drop a nail behind the hook to lock the wing in place.
Chas. Bridge
Source Woodcraft,(800)225-1153,www.woodcraft.com
S-in.bed+ailfasteners,#1274s6,$llforasetof
four.
Q: Ifow manyjigs
All the joints on this kitchen table were made on the

WoodRat...dovetails - half-blind
andthrough,mortises,tenons,
slidingdovetails,grooving,drillingand rabetting.
The WoodRat
can do this preciselybecauseit does not havethe limitationsof
a jig. lf you joint wood, you needa WoodRat.
Getthe demo DVD($5)

online:woodrat.com
or call: $77-WOODRAT
CircleNo. 127
ffi
Blasr GnrE MarutFoLDFoR Vac Hosrs
Y"uifiiripiite'1oi*er
miynat; arr*rrro; In my small shop, I use a shop vacuum to
but we're certainyour last one will. lt
makessensethatthepeople whoinvented collect dust from several tools. To cut
thetechnique joining
ofbiscuit wouldbuild down on the need to swap hoses, I
the world'sfinestplate joiner. These built this manifold with two blast
Swissmade,precisioncrafted toolsare
the mostaccurate,repeatable, rugged, gates. Now I transfer suction with a
reliable
machines ontheplanet. flip of my wrist.
Herearejusta fewofthereasons fiat make To make the box, I drilled
themthelastplatejoineryou'lleverneed: holes for the hoses and rabbet-
o Allslidesandcontactsurfaces ed the box sides for the 1/8-in.
are
machined (ratherthan drawnor cast)to blast gates. After cutting rhe
ensureabsolute precision andflatness end pieces to match the rab-
o Allguidesurfaces arecoated to bets, I glued the box together
ensure fluidmotionandmaximum life
on a long backplate for wall-
o Everymachine is inspectedfor
dimensional accuracy andgroove mounting. I made blast gates
. tolerance of .001" from scraps of plastic, but hard-
e Guaranteed of spareparts
availability board would work just as well.
for 10years
To make the wooden handles, I
r Consistently ratedthe ultimatebiscuit
joinerbytradejournals sawed a kerf in an oversize blank,
cut the handles from the blank and
And,Lamello makesmorethanjust great drilled holes for the screws.
PlateJoiners,our CantexLippingPlaners
andLaminaLaminate Trimmers are must Armand Niccolai
havetools for the seriouswoodworker
lookingforthe uhimatein quality.
Golonial
SawGompany,
Inc.
If yo,9 havg an original Small Shop Tip, send it to us with a sketch or photo. If we print it,
you'll get $100! Send it to Small Shop Tips, American Woodworker, 2915 Commers Drive,
Suite 700, F,agan, MN 5512f or e-mail fs srnallshoptips@readersdigeslcom. Submissions can't
be renrrned and become our property upon acceptance and paymenl We may edit submissions
EAST| -888-777
-2729 and use them in all print and elecronic media.
wEsT1-800-252-6355
www.csaw.c0m/01
CnAZY MTSTAKES WooDWoRKERS Mnrr
editedDyTimJohnson
Rusr Pnlncr
Before leaving town for the weekend, I
made room in my garage shop to stack the
ar'*,= 500 bd. ft. of freshly cut red oak that I'djust
acquired. I aimed a fan at the stack to help
,zr!.SG';-
.m
j circulate the air, so the boards would dry even-
ly while I was away.
When I returned, I got a big surprise. I don't know how much
water 500 bd. ft. of green oak contain, but I can tell you that enough was
released in a single weekend to saturate the air in my shop and rust every tool.
Jim Knox z
v
E.
-
WooowoRKER's Dozeru m
U
to share. send it to us.
U
You'll receive $100 for After examining magazine storage boxes-those fold-together cardboard file boxes F
(n
each one we print. with open fronts and slanted sides-I decided my precious magazines deserved some- 2
o
Send it to AW Oops!,
thing better. So I set about making storage file boxes of solid wood. =
American Woodworker, cr
F
2915 Commers Drive, I cut pieces to make 12 4in.-wide file boxes, one for each of my subscriptions. Then I a
l
Suite 700, Eagan, MN asked mywife to help me with assembly.Instead of gluing and clamping each file box indi- )
I
55121, or e-mail to
vidually, I demonstrated my woodworking prowess by clamping them all at once, using z
oops@readersdigesl com. U)
Submissions can't be long pipe clamps. Mywife was impressed by my ingenuity, and so was I. Unfortunately, I'd z
-
returned and become forgotten to insert wax paper between each box, to contain glue squeezeout. -
our property upon z
The next day,l made sure my wife was present as I triumphantly removed the clamps. E.
L!
acceptance and pay-
ment. We may edit sutl You can imagine her response when we discovered that instead of 72 individual storage 2
o
missionsand use them in file boxes, I'd glued up a single 4ft.-wide box with 12 compartments. F
O
all print and electronic U
E
media. Dan Cobian o
F
E
96 American Woodworker JULy 2oos

American Woodworker No 115 July 2005

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,l A Classrc

American Woodworker JULY 2oos 1

Classified Advertising, The McNeill Group, lnc.

PUBLISHED BY HOME SERVICE PUBLICATIONS, INC.,

chief Executi9lffi33; Thomaso. Ryder

Worldwide Circulation Director John Kingel

Circulation Marketing Director Lou Sassano

Issue #115. American Woodworker@, ISSN 10749152,

4 American Woodworker JULY 2oo5

Sanding through a veneer happens to everyone soon-

American Woodworker JULY 2oos 7

Since these problems developed

It's actrtallvplettv easr'.\{'hat \r()uckris attach:r scribeto the enclof'the

asainst the rvall. *

If'vou have a question you'd like zrnsrvered,

10 Arnericiur \\bocllrrr-kel J u Ly 2oo5

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allows you to draw large arches M a k e a j i g b a s e do n t h e r i s e a n d r u n o f y o u r a r c h .

Draw one side of the arch by

American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 17

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#7 RatedDrum Sanderby Independent Experts!

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American Woodworker JULY 2oos 25

thorrqh, and yotr can nrin o

abra-sivcpaper befrrre fi{lrr- tr

irnprovine yorlr results ancl CI

UsE THE ConRECT Gnlr

Y Grits can be divided into three groups: coarse,medi-

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also reported,sometimeswith delayedonset.Most menweren'tbotherel bVthe side effectsenough!o gtop

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I fisG-qf EN s.Er b$de diagrams, service notes and even

American Woodworker JULY 2oob 43

hr w4tnttld t{ tbe stur!5{ttl snrtlfuIk,

ter of your router'sbase plus 1/4 in. lf your shelvesare a

beiween the fences.When you build your jig, make sure

Positionthe jig by aligning its dadoeswith your layout 11-3/8'

5/16" x 3/8" LIP

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54 American Woodworker JULY 2oos

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