Holiday Wanderings Madeira 1892

HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN
MADEIRA.
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HOLIDAY WANDERINGS
lN MADEIRA
BY
A. E. W. MARSH
R.M.S. Seot. [See page 160.
LONDON
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY
Lbllited
~t, @unstlln's ;IDousc
FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET, E.C.
18 9 2
[All " edJ
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PREFACE.
MADEIRA is at the present time so little

known to the ordinary holiday-maker, but
is, nevertheless, such a delightful place in
which to spend a holiday, that I have not
been able to resist the temptation to place
before the public an account of one I
recent1y spent there in company with a
party of friends. I was the more ready to
succumb to the temptation, as I felt confi-
dent there were hundreds of my fellow-
workers here in England who would hail with
pleasure the advent of any book that pointed
out to them the existence, within a few days'
journey of home, of a new place in which
they could be sure of passing a few pleasant
weeks.
To the narrative of our wanderings and
VI PREFACE.
adventures, I have added, as an Appendix, a

brief sketch of the events which led to the
discovery and colonization of the island j
and, for the information of intending visitors,
I have given some particulars relative to
ships, hotels, excursions, and expenses.
My sincere thanks are due to my friend
and fellow-traveller, B. J. Malden, Esq.,
F.R.G.S., F.Z.S., etc., an amateur photo-
grapher of no mean order, and to Seno
M. d'O. Perestrello, photographer, Funchal,
who by their kindness have enabled me to
give in the work illustrations of the scenery
through which we passed.
A.E. W.M.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER r.
PAGE
Introduction-Where to go for a holiday-Advan-
tages of a sea voyage-The start-Sunday
service on board ship-Amusements -" The
Doctor "-Our steward .
CHAPTER n.
Land ho l-Funchal Bay-The diving boys-
Landing-The beach-The procession to the
Cus tom House-The beggars and the flies-
The Caro-The garden-Moonlight on the
balcony . 12
CHAPTER III.
Hammocks and hammock-men-Description of
Funchal-Portuguese soldiers- The public
gardens-The public laundry- The cemetery. 26
CHAPTER IV.
The excursion to the north side: the difficulties and
dangers of the way, and the lack of accom-
vw CONTENTS.
PA.GE
modation on the road-We prepare for the

journey-A false start--Strike of the hal11-
mock-men - The Carinhos - The Mount
Church-Legend of Nossa Senhora-Up in
the mountains-The race-Refuge hut-Don
Emanuel-The burriqueros-The horses-An
accident-The Ribeiro Frio-The Metade
ravine and Crusinhas-The peasantry and
their homes . 40
CHAPTER V.
Thc Hotel Figueira-Santa Anna-The mill-The
dinner-Round the village-We go to bed-
Cockroaches ! - We resume our journey-The
Church of S. Jorge--A dangerous path 64
CHAPTER VI.
Boa Ventura-The inn-Besieged by children-
The Church of Santa Quiteria-Condition of
the villagers, wages, etc.-The system of land
tenu re-Those awful fleas-The fIea yarn 78
CHAPTER VII.
A difierence of opinion-The burriqueros' breakfast
-En route to São Vincente-The village
fair-How ought we to spend Sunday?-The
ChapeI of S. John-We bathe-We lose our
horses . 96
CHAPTER VIU.
São Vincente-Prison life-The inn-Preparation
for dinner-The sacrifice-Thc flies - The
CONTENTS. IX
FAGE
Cascade of POÇO de Passasol-The burri-
queros in trouble-A curiosity-The moon-
light excursion J1I
CHAPTER IX.
The viII age ladies assist at the retirement for the
night-Mr. X. on .llational characteristics-
Another accident-On getting up early-The
sunrise we didn't see-On the road for
Funchal-The Eucllmeada pass-Refresh-
ments at the shelter hut-The injured cow-
011 the wrong track-Precipices and land-
slides-A cheer that frightened the goats-
Burriqueros' antics-The Machado sings-
Rocha Alta and the Grand Curral-Too
dangerous to ride-The Jardim ela Serra-Our
lUl1ch-We arrive at Funchal. 124
CHAPTER X.
Morning reflections alld good resolutions-Round
the town - The musicians -A moonlight
ramble-The troubadour-The frog story-
Shoppillg-The "Bonanoe "-MI'. I and his
pipe-An honest man -Good-bye !-Home-
ward bound - The Scot - Our welcome
home 147
APPENDIX A.
A short account of the Discovery of Madeira 163
APPENDIX B.
A few Particulars for intending Visitors . I73
- - L:..::....- _
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Funchal Frontispiece
R.M.S. Scot . Titlejage
The Diving Boys 14
Funchal Beach on a quiet afternoon I7
The " Caro" . 20
Hammock, Hammock.men, and Fare

Street Scene, Funchal .
The Public Gardens, Funchal
Scene in the Grand Curral
A Travelling Party 43
A Burriquero 53
The Ribeira da Metade 57
Crusinhas 58
A Peasant's Home 60
The Ravine of Boa V ent ura 79
The Church of Santa Quiteria 82
Mountain Stream and Bridge near Boa Ventura 97
Xli LIST OF ILLusTRAToNs.
PAGE
A bit of the N orth Coast 101
Cliffs at the entrance to the Ravine of São Vin-

cente 1°7
The Chapel of St. John, São Vincente 108
The Track near Rocha Alta
The Grand Curral
The Grand Curral-Profile Mountain 144
A Saloon Organ . 174
Dining S.l.loon, ss. Sco! . 17 6
HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA .
•
CHAPTER I.
Introduction-Where to go for a holiday-Advantages of a
sea voyage-The start-Sunday service 011 board ship-
Amusements-" The Doctor "-Our steward.
" W HEHE are you going for your holiday this

year ? "
This is a question which at the beginning
of every holiday season is asked by hundreds
of people, and is one to which it becomes
harder every year to give a ready answer.
There is at all English watering-places such
a deadly sameness in everything save the
total of one's bill-which shows a tendency
to increase ad injim'tum-that a few days
spent at one of these seaside resorts is suffi-
B
2 HOLlDAV \VANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
cient to give one a bad fit of the blues, and

make one wish oneself back in harness again.
And then the English climate now.a·days,
during the so-called summer, is so atrociously
bad that even though it were possible to find
a place on our coasts where one real1y could
enjoy a few weeks' holiday, the rain, frost,
and snow would certainly combine to spoil
the anticipated enjoyment. Driven thus by
force of circumstances to 100k outside Eng-
land when arranging for a holiday, the would-
be holiday-maker is bewildered by the number
and variety of specially organized, personally
conducted tours, which embrace in their
itinerary some or all of the chief points of
interest on the Continent of Europe.
Of course, every one of these tours IS
warranted to be the exact thing required by
him, but after trying one the chances are he
will rest satisfied with his one experience:
he com es back feeling completely done up,
his mind in a state of chaos and his body a
physical wreck.
I NTRODUCTION. 3
What, then, is he to do? My advice to

him is : trya sea trip. He will get change of
scene without the fatigue incidental to Iong
raiIway journeys, he will pass through a period
of freedom from the worry of Ietters and
telegrams, for the post cannot reach him at
sea, and, above ali, he will be sure of an
exhaustless suppIy of pure air, a spell of en-
forced idIeness that will prove very beneficial,
and a rest during the return voyage that will
enable him to recruit the strength Iost in
sight-seeing whiIst he is ashore. Let him
book his passage on a good ship, and ue off
either west to America, north to Norway, or
south to Spain, Gibraltar, the Mediterranean,
or to Madeira. Tours to America and N or ..
way in the season can be easily arranged,
and are comparatively inexpensive; and as
regards the Mediterranean, the P. and O.
and Orient Steamship Companies offer every
inducement for a voyage: the ships are so
good-I speak from experience -'-that the
chances of sea-sickness are reduced to a
B 2
4 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
mJl11mUm, the accommodation is excellent,

the attendance is all that can be desired, and
further, these two companies charge specially
low rates for return tickets between England
and the ports in the Mediterranean at which
their ships call.
A holiday in Madeira is not, perhaps, quite
so easy to arrange as one in any of the other
parts of the world I have mentioned, Dor can
it be accomplished, if one wishes to see as
much as possible in a week or two spent
on the island, at such a relatively small cost;
but when once landed on its shores, the
tourist finds so much to charm and instruct
him that he feels that ample compensation
is received for the extra trouble and expense
involved. It is not to be understood, how-
ever, that this is by any means an expensive
holiday; on the contrary, it will be seen from
the table of expenses given at the end J that
it is really very inexpensivc, especially when
one considers the manner in which travelling
1 See Appendix B.
THE 5
about the island is accomplished. And what

a holiday is like in Madeira I shall endeavour
to show in the following pages j for, in the
words of Dr. \/Vatts, " I have been there and
still would go."
We were a merry little parly that left

Southampton one fine Saturday afternoon in
the early summer of Iast year by the mail
steamer 7àrtar, one of the fine fleet owned
by the Union S.S. Company, to visit the
deIightfuI island where chill east winds and
murky, death-deaIing fogs are unknown.
We had been advised byan oId friend who
had made the voyage many times to traveI
by this company, his experience teaching him
that on board their ships everything was done
to ensure the comfort of the passengers; and
after our experience we can endorse all that
he saído The ships are Jarge, well fitted and
furnished, and, above all, on each a good table
-a great thing on a sea voyage-is provided.
I t is but common justice, too, to say that 011
the Ta da r, an:! the ship by which we re-

turned, from the captain downwards, we met
with nothing but kindness. Two things we
were particular1y struck with, and those were
the strict discipline which was enforced
amongst the crews, and the high state of
efficiency to which they had been brought.
Both on the outward and homeward voyage,
without any previous warning. the fire alarm
bell was one afternoon suddenly set ringing,
and i{lstantly every man, including even the
cooks and scullerymen, left his occupation,
and, without any confusion whatever, took up
his appointed station. lt may, perhaps, seem
almost incredible, but within six minutes from
lhe nrst alarm the hose pipes were laid on, the
pumps rigged, and copious streams of water
\Vere being poured on to the supposed fire.
I t was the same with the boat praclice.
When the order was given to man the boats,
before a landsman like myself really had time
to look round, the canvas coverings were off,
the davits swung outboard, the tackles and
SOUTIIAMPTON \VAT E R. 7
falis cleared, and each boat with its crew was

ready and waiting the order to cc lower away."
Such a high state of efficiency can only be
obtained by ccnstant practice, andoby com-
pelling each individual member of the ship's
company to make himself thoroughly con-
versant with the duty which in time of danger
would be required of him.
But to resume the narrative. The weather
on this particular afternoon was perfect-it
was one of those very few fine days that
stay-at-home people saw last summer-and
the sea, to use the time-honoured phrase,
was cc as smooth as a mill-pond." South-
ampton water was alive with yachts of all
sorts and sizes, from the unpretentious little
nondescript owned jointly by Tom, Dick, and
Harry, to the floating palace of the pluto-
crat; and many a cheer we got fram their
crews as we slowly pir,ked our way down
towards the open sea. A stay was made off
Netley, to take on board the last consign-
ment of mails, but as SOOI1 as they were
- - -
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8 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN M .\DEIRA.
safely stowed away, the last good-byes were

said, the tender was "cast off," and we com-
menced our voyage in real earnest. Soon
after passing the I sle of Wight, the pilot left
us, and after bidding him adieu, as it was
now dark and nothing but the shadowy out-
line of the coast was to be seen, we retired
to bed; but none Df us slept very soundly,
our surroundings were too strange.
The next day, Sunday, passed rather
slowly, as, except for church service, there
was nothing to excite one's interest. Church
time was announced by the tolling of the
ship's bell, which, for the nonce, resigned its
own peculiar office of striking the death
knell of the hours. The service, a shortened
form from the Protestant Prayer-book, but
including the prayers for those at sea, was
conducted bya c1ergyman going to the Cape,
and was attended by nearly every passenger
on the ship, not one of whom, had he or she
been questioned, but would have said that
there was an impressiveness about the sim pIe,
r, THE DOCTOR." 9
quiet, religious service held that Sunday

morning out on the mighty deep which tran-
scended ali that could be attained by the most
elaborate ritual celebrated in the stateliest
cathedral that ever reared its head to the
skies.
The remainder of the voyage passed
rapidly and pleasantly enough. We had
plenty of music at night in the saloon, and
during the day we occupied ourselves with
games of various descriptions, some amusing,
others interesting. Speaking for myseIf, I
found it far more amusing to watch the
games than to take part in them, especially
when "The Doctor" took a hand. "The
Doctor" was the nickname given to our
most eccentric and most irritable fellow-
passenger. He went about dressed in the
most extraordinary costumes, and when in
liquor, as he often was, he did things that
would have brought the blush of shame to
his cheeks in his sober moments. Poor
Doctor! that weakness of his for strong
lO HOLIDAY WANDERINGS TN l\IADEIRA.
drink caused him to be the victim of al1

manner of practical jokes, some of which cast
more discredit on the perpetrators than on
him. I fancy I see him now staggering
about the deck with his face blackened, his
coat inside out. a bath towel tied round his
head, his socks fastened rOllnrl his legs, and
his boots hung round his neck. Whenever
he joined in a game, a crowd soon col1ected
to watch the development of events. The
explosion was never long in coming. Some
one would either remark in a stage whisper
that "The Doctor " was not playing fairly, or
accuse him openly of resorting to trickery
in arder to win. That was quite enough.
Bang went the quoits, or whatever he had in
his hand, on the deck, a"nd up carne his rage
to fever heat. How he would then stamp
about and storm, to the great delight of his
tormentors.
" 1'11 play any man on this ship any game
he likes for a thousand pounds, and beat
him! J'11 see the captain, and ask him if I
OUR STEWARD. I I
play fair1y. Vou shall all be put ashore at

Madeira. Vou shall not remain on lhis ship
t o annoy me i".
Poor Doctor !
We had one other odd character on board,
one for whom life seemed to have lost all its
joys. He was as taciturn as "The Doctor"
was voluble. This individual was our table
steward. H e had certainly missed his
vocation; he ought to have been a mute;
for a more serious-looking man it would be
hard to find, and speech he had none. I do
not know how many languages he could be
silent in, but he certainly was ve1')' silent in
one. Perhaps he was like the parrot and
thought a great deal-we never got the
benefit of his meditations, however.
CHAPTER II.
Land ho !-Funchal Bay-The diving boys-Landing-The
beach-The procession to the CustOlll House-The
beggars and the flies-"The Caro- The garden-Moon.
light on the balcony.
MUCH as we enjoyed the voyage no one was

very sorry when the cry went round the ship,
about 9 o'clock on Wednesday morning, that
land was in sight, especially aS it had begun
to blow a little and the ship occasionally
indulged in an impromptu dance that was
anything but agreeable to some of our party.
We coasted for some time along the Island,
and we were charmed with the diversified
scenery presented to the view. R ugged,
mist-topped mountain peaks alternated with
terraced, cultivated slopes; here a rocky
gorge, down which the mountain torrents
Fu ' CHAL BAv. J .)...
foamed and tossed, and there an undulating

valley srniling with vegetation j but whilst
we were still adrniring the beautiful scene, the
last headland was rounded and we steamed
into Funchal Bay.
Funchal Bay has been not inaptly compared
to the Bay of Naples, though a Bay of
Naples in rninidture. There is the sarne
crescent shape, the sarne blue sea j the Loo
Rock with its fort is not unlike the rock on
which is built the Castell dell' Ovo; and
then there is the straggling hilly town at its
head with its background of rnountain
ridges.
Before the ship had time to anchor, we
were surrounded by a Reet of boats, some
loaded with rnerchandise, and others con-
taining the diving boys. These boys are
more expert at their trade than any I have
e\'er seen in the Mediterranean. They are
so much at horne in the water, that it appears
more their native elernent than the dry land.
They perform the most extraordinary feats.
14 HOLIDAY WANDEIUNGS lN MADEIRA.
Sornetime3 four or five dive after the sarne

penny, and then when the ripples clear away
you can see thern below the surface strug-
gling for its possession like London street
The Diving Boys.
boys on Lord Mayor's day. For the surn

of threepence, one little urchin about twelve
years of age dived right. under the ship and
GOING ASIlORE.
carne up on the other side, no easy thing

to do, as the vessel was drawing over 20
feet of water and the boy had no " take off."
Another trick is for two boys, 0l!e balanced
on the other's shoulders, to dive in together:
find the money, and come to the surface
with the feet of the one still resting on the
sh oulders of the other. So interested were
we in watching these boys, that we quite for-
got we had to go ashore, but the steward
coming to inform us that the proprietor
of the hotel at which we were to stay was
waiting our pleasure, recalled us at once
to what we had to do. To our surprise we
found that some of the party had already
started and were some distance on the way
to lhe beach. This caused us to, as the
Americans would say, (( hump ourselves," and
it was 110t long before we, too, had committed
ourselves and our baggage to the tender
mercies of the Portuguese boatmen.
From the fact that there is always a sorf
breaking on the beach, landing at Funchal is
at all times a somewhat difficult operation,

and during the prevalence of certain winds
highly dangerous, so much so that it is
seldom attempted, but the boats are taken
on round to the rear of the breakwater where
there is no surf. At ordinary times, however,
there is no danger, though, if one is not care-
fui, the chan ces are a good wetting will be
the result. The method adopted by the
boatmen when landing their passengers is
peculiar. The boat is rowed to within a short
distance of the shore and then is turned
round until it is stern on. I t is now allowed
to float in on the crest of a wave until it
runs aground. When the wave recedes it is
left high and dry, and an unwary passenger
might be tempted to jump out and find
himself caught by the next wave. This
wave drives the boat farther ashore, and then
two or three men run out and grasp its sides,
a rope is attached to the keel, a yoke of oxen
hitched on, and with aPortuguese equivalent
for a cC Yo! hea ve ho ! " and a snort from the
A LIVELY SCENE. 17
oxen themselves, the boat and its burden are

hauled up out of the reach of the sea.
An indescribable, jumbled-up crowd of
Funchal Beach on a quiet afternoon.
clark - skinned, ragged, scantily - dressed,

urchins, gaily-kerchiefed, bare-legged women,
sour-looking, evil-smelling men, little brown-
coated oxen, overloaded donkeys, and
c
gaudily-painted boats, a host of crippled

and blind beggars, a pandernonil'.m of
sounds, an odour that would have put ali
the stinks of Cologne mentioned by the
poet to the blush, a lavish display of
colour everywhere, a deep blue sky, and
a blazing sun that was pouring down a heat
that was tropical in its intensity, were the
first things we noticed on landing. What a
change from orderly, grim, murky London!
Some of our party cOllld scarcely believe
the evidence of their own senses. I t seemed
to them impossibie that a few days' voyage
should have brought them to a country 50
entirely unlike their own in clirnate, scenery,
people, and customs. The general crowd and
the odour we left behind us as we made our
way from the beach to the Custom House, the
beggars we did noto N ot that we gave these
lazzaroni a pressing invitation to join us.
Don't think that for a minute . We didn't
invite them at all, but they carne all the sarne,
and so did a srnal! processlOll of the able-
•
BEGGARS AND FLIEs. 19
bodied of the place. We made quite a show

as we all, beggars and others included, filed
into the courtyard of the Cus tom House.
We only wanted a band of music, and then
we could have passed off as a circus. Dur-
ing the time our baggage was being examined
we were pestered with the attentions of the
beggars and the flies. Perhaps you do not
see any. connection between beggars and flies.
Just land at Funchal and you will at once.
Whenever and wherever you meet a beggar
you will find him swarming with flies. He
never drives them off, they are as much a
part of himself as his Heas, and I believe he
would be inconsolable for their 105s if they
were to desert him altogethp.r; he does not
object to their leaving him for a short time
to tease you. I am wrong. I apologize. I
said he never disturbed them. He doe's,
but only to show you his sores. What a
glorious time the Funchal f1y must have.
A beautiful climate, plenty to eat and drink,
and no cunningly devised traps set for his
c 2
'20 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
destruction. No wonder he is so big, so fat;

and so lazy. If our English Bies only knew
of this El Dorado there would be a general
exodus. The examination of cur baggage
The "Caro."
over, we drove to the hotel in bullock sledges

or "caros."
The c, caro" is the Funchal cabo It is an
iron shod sledge, with awnings and curtains
to shield the riders from the sun, capable of
seating four persons, and is drawn by a team
THE FUNCHAL CAB. 21
of two oxen. A boy walks at the head of

the oxen to direct their movements, which
he does by tugging on a piece Qf stout cord
fixed in their horns. At their heels walks
the driver proper, a man armed with a goad,
a long stick having in its end a steel spike
about one inch long, with which he prods the
poor beasts whenever he wishes to accelerate
the pace, accompanying each prod with a yelI
that would make a Sioux Indian turn green
with envy. The pace which is got out of
this curious combination is trulyastonishing.
I am not exaggerating in the least when I
say it is quite one and a half miles per hour.
The reason for the use of this peculiar
vehicle is to be found in the fact that the
roads are so steep that wheeled conveyances
would be worse than useless, though there
are, I believe, two of these latter in the
place, but they are kept as curiosities, and
are only brought out when the town needs a
little excitement.
The hotel reached, the party broke up,
andOwas not reunited until the dinner gong

sent its welcome summons bo'o ming through
the grounds. Some had spent the interval
lounging in easy chairs, or lying in hammocks
out under the grateful shade of the trees,
others in wooing the drowsy god, some on
the balcony admiring the view of land and
sea, and some, the more energetic, in
wandering through the gardens examining
the flowers and fruits and revelling in the
luxuriance there displayed. And truly it
was worth ali the exertion it COS! them:
oleander and rose, heliotrope and honey-
suckle, orange and olive, geranium and
fuchsia, banana and fig, grape, mango, and
all the other wonders of a tropical vegetation
vied with each other in innocent rivalry to
charm the eyes with the beauty of their
blooms, or intoxicate the senses with the
fragrance of their perfumes. As soon as
dinner was ove r, an adjournment was, by
common consent, made to the balcony for a
lounge and a smoke.
- - - - -- - - -.----_-
MOONLIGIIT ON THE BALCONY. 23
I would that I had the peri of some

mighty poet, that I might describe, in fitting
language, the beauty of the panorama that
opened before uso I t was a peep into fairy-
land. Night had fallen, and silence,
broken only by the chirp of the cricket and
the buzz of myriatl insects, reigned supreme.
The moon had risen, and in the crystal clear-
ness of the cloudless sky was shining with a
brilliancy never seen in more northern climes.
ln the glory of its beautiful silver light the
waves sparkled and glistened as they danced
aI ong on their restless way, and the moun-
t~ins, cIear and distinct, appeared arrayed in
a suit of spotless armour, grim sentinels
holding watch and ward over the sleeping
town at their feet. Above, below, and to
the left stretched the scattered town, its
white houses, standing alone in their gardens
or clustered toget her as if for protection,
Iooking weird and ghostly in the moonlight,
whilst to the right rose a grove of beautifui
trees, the leaves of which were quivering
with song in response to the loving touch of

the evening breeze. I t was, indeed, a lovely
sight, and one that years will not efface from
my memory. Fresh from the din and tur-
moil of London, the quiet peacefulness of
the scene seized upon me and held me
spelI-bound. I found it impossible to tear
myself away from its fascinating charm.
One by one the others went indoors, and I
could hear their bursts of laughter and the
strains of music floating out into the night
fram the music-room, but only as one hears
in a dream; and gradually as I san k into a
reverie, all sounds hushed, stilled, and died
away. Old memories were awakened, and I
saw páss in review before me the old, well-
loved friends who have long since left this
\Vorld and its sorrows behind, and, crowd-
ing one upon another, many long-forgotten
incidents with which they were connected,
many grave, but few gay. And when at last
I sought my room, long after alI the others
had retired to rest, it was with a feeling of
BVGONE DAYS.
deep but withal such pleasant sadness that,

with Faust,
"Then dared I hail the moment fIeeting,

Ah, still delay-thou art so fair."
CHAPTER III.
Hammocks and hammock-men-Description of Funchal-
Portuguese soldiers-The public gardens-The public
la undry-The cemetery.
AFTER breakfast the following morning an

expedition was organized to explore the town.
Jn this expedition we had our first experience
of the Madeira hammock. The heat and
the roads combine to make travelling about
the island very fatiguing to visitors, and if
journeys of any distance are to be made,
recourse must be had to the caro, the
hammock, or the horse. The caro I have
already described, and the horses I shall
speak of later on. The hammock, or réde,
is a combination of stout cord and canvas,
large enough to contain one person, covered
with gay coloured cloths and fitted with a
TI-IE R EDE .
kind of hood to prot eet the traveller from

the rays of the SUI1. Two loops, one at the
head anel the other at the foot, admit of its
being suspended from the pole whieh is
Hammock, Hammock-men, and Fare.
earried 011 the shoulders of the bearers. The

hammoek-men are strong, wiry fellows, able
to aeeomplish a journey of twenty or thirty
miles per day over the worst of traets and
under a burning SUI1 with but little rest and
28 HOLIDAY W ANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
little sustenance. They are very light1y

clad, just a hat, white shirt, trousers, and
native boots; but e'ven that is almost too
much, for, as they shufHe along with their
peculiar shamble, neither walk nor run, the
perspiration simply streams off them. They
are boro improvisatores and beguile the
tedium of their toil by indulging this ~alent,
setting the words to some well-known tune,
in the chorus of which they can ali join.
The ai r, the sea, the sky, the locality and, as
one might natural1y expect, the traveller, ali
come in for their share of treatment; and
woe betide the unfortunate wight who is
either very heavy or niggardly in his pour-
boires at the halting places! What they say
of him in their songs ig the reverse of com-
plimentary. A ride in a hammock must be
indulged in to be appreciated proper1y. It
is one of the most luxurious modes of travel-
ling that can be imagined. At first the rider
has some fears that he may be dropped, but
this feeling soon wears off, and the easy,
.......
... -r - -
-
WE EXPLORE FUNCHAL. 29
gentle, swaying motion induces an almost

unconquerable desire to sleep. Some in
hammocks then, and some on foot, we made
.our way into the town, and did not. return
until it was long past the usual luncheon
hoúr.
A closer acquaintance with the city of
Funchal did not increase my respect for it.
The streets are crooked, narrow, and ill-
paved, few possessing even the semblance
of a side walk, and, above all, are not par-
ticular1y well cleansed. The houses are,
generally, mean and unpretentious, and
irregular in construction, with stucco fronts
coloured red, yellow, white, orange, green, or
some other equally brilliant colour, though it
must be confessed that in that brilliant sun-
shine these bright colours do not seem gaudy
or out of place j but in the heart of the city,
near the cathedral, there are some houses
that are somewhat more stylish. There are
few shops worthy of the name, the majority
are nothing but " poky " little dens, possess-
30 HOLIDAY WANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
ing little or no window space, and crammed

to overflowing with the most curious assort-
ments of wares. Many of them, especially
those occupied hy shoemakers, cabine t-
makers, and the like, have no front wall, and
consequently the interior is quite exposed to
view, and as one passes along the street, one
can see the deft fingers plying the busy awl
or chisel as the artificers sit and chatter at
their work. But what they lack in size and
appearance, some of them make up 111 the
grandiloquence of their names. Over one
appeared this sign, writ large :
THE BURLINGTON ARCADE.

True, it was above one of the largest of the
shops, but, ye gods, what a caricature!
Imitation, it is said, is the sincerest form of
flattery, but I doubt much if the worthy
tenants of our o\\'n Burlington Arcade would
feel very flattered could they see the place
to which 1 refer. The shop signs, general1y,
afford a very interesting study to the curious.
SHOPS, SHOP SIGNS, &c. 3I
Some of them bear, for the benefit of the

illiterate, crude drawings of the articles sold
by the trader: a bottle, for instance, coloured
red, signifying that wine is the principal com-
modity retailed; others which do use a
written language have only one, two, or three
capitalletters painted upon them: thus one
with a big A is over a shop in which
Aguardente, a vile white rum rnade from the
sugar-cane grown on the island, and much
used by the lower classes, is sold j another,
we noticed, bears the letters P.V.B. (pão
vinho bom)-bread and good wine j and a
third, the letters P.P. (padeiro publico)-
public baker.
The city possesses three very goo"d
markets: one for meat, another for fish, and
a third for fruit. ln the hsh market we saw
many speci mens of fish of which, up to that
time, some of us at least possessed only a
book knowledge, amongst them the tunny
and octopus. ln the fruit market were ex-
posed for sale loads of the many fruits which
are grown ln Madeira: peaches, apples,

pears, bananas, figs, pines-an endless
variety. The combined perfume from these
fruits was almost sickening in its intensity,
and our stay in the market was therefore very
brief. Both these places at the time of our
visit were fiUed with an animated crowd of
buyers and sellers, forming as picturesque a
scene as it is possible to imagine. And that
is the great charm of the city. It may be
dirty, it may be mean and paltry, but it is
always picturesque. It is impossible to take
the shortest of walks without happening upon
groups of people and bits of scenery, each
of which would make the most charming
picture.
Years ago the principal entrance to the
town from the beach was at the Varadourous
gatewai-a curious old structure with a little
chapei above it, bearing a Latin inscription,
dated 1689-but now it is by way of a fairly
wide road, lined with trees, some distance to
the left. At the end of this road stands the
THE PORTUGUESE SOLDIERS. 33
Governor's palace, a large, semi·castellated

building, called the Fortalaza, or Palace of
São Lourenço. Outside of this building we
stood watching the guard parade, until hurried
Street Scene, Funchal.
away by the military man of our party-a

lieutenant in her Majesty's citizen army-
whose anger was aroused by the way in which
the soldiers went through their evolutions.
D
"Do they call that drilling?" said he.

" Why it would be a disgrace to the worst
squad of the worst volunteer regiment we
possesso You lazy beggars, if I were your
captain I would sharpen you up, or know the
reason! Look at that now. Isn't it enough
to make a man weep? Oh, for goodness
sake, come along, or I shall do something
d'ysperate."
And really it was enough to make any man
with a spark of military pride boil over with
indignation. The command is given to
shoulder arms. Not a man moves. Vou
think they have not heard, and expect to
hear the order repeated, but there you are
mistaken. The order has been heard right
enough, but it takes time to move a body of
Portuguese soldiers: they seem to be always
half asleep, and at first are never certain
that any command given applies to them.
Presently, however, it occurs to one man
that perhaps, after all, it was meant for thern,
and to be on the safe side it would be as well
OUH. MILITARY MAN IS NOT PLEASED. 35
perhaps to shoulder his gun. But does he

hurry to make up for lost time? Not he.
ln the most lackadaisical manner he com-
mences the operation, and after a deal of
fumbling, eventual1y finds, to his intense
surprise, that he has somehow, how, he does
not know, managed to get his rifle into the
right position. Of course he does not let
you know, if he can help it, that he is sur-
prised. Oh, no, he is wide awake enough
for that. He looks round with a self-satisfied
smile, which says as plainly as words: "I am
a soldier, I am;" but I am certain he feeIs
surprised for all his smile. One by one the
others follow suit, and at the end of, say;
three minutes from the time the order was
given perhaps, if they are smarter than usual,
quite haif the men have carried it out. This
fearful slowness is seen in ali their move-
ments, and if you add to it an utter absence
of thinking power-they do not seem to know
the right arm from the left-you will have an
idea of the rank and file as we saw them. I
D 2
- - - - - - - - - -- -
do not know if those we sa w are a verage

specimens of the Portuguese soldier, but if
so, then, with apologies to Bret Harte,
" I wish to remark, and my language is plain,
That for ways that are slow and for absence of brain
The Portuguese soldier 's peculiar."
N ot far from the Governor' s residence is
the public garden, or Praza, without doubt
one of the prettiest spots in Funchal. I t is
not large, but it must have cost a considerable
sum of money and much care, to bring to the
perfection everywhere visible the great wea1th
of tropical vegetation which it possesses;
and to enhance its attractions, which are
many, a fairly good band plays in it several
nights per week, and never fails to draw a
large concourse of people who, like their
English confreres, sit or stroll about, listen-
ing to the music, and discussing the latest
bits of scandal. Just beyond the Praza, we
come to an iron bridge which spans one of
the three rivers that run through Funchal.
During the summer months these ri\'ers,
- ----=------- -
A GOSSIP WITII THE LAUNDRESSES. 37
except for a tiny stream, trickling down the

centre of the channel, and here and there a
little pool, are dry, and their deep rocky beds
are used as the laundry grounds of the city,
where, at any hour of the morning, you may
indulge in a little badinage with the bare-
legged, short-skirted laundresses and house·
wives, who are busy at their work with their
children laughing and tumbling about them.
The women folk are very fond of a gossip,
and nothing delights them more than for a
stranger to sit on the wall and indulge their
whim. The only drawback to this amuse-
ment is that the children are apt to become
troublesome, and pester your life with
petitions for money, and as their name is
generally (( legion," a few minutes so spent
are cheap if they only cost you a shilling.
ln the winter season these rivers become rag-
ing torrents, which, before now, have burst
through the banks, hurled down the bridges,
and scattered death and destruction broad-
cast. ln October, 18°3, such a disaster
38 H OLIDA Y W ANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
occurred, houses and their inhabitants were

carried headlong into the sea, and as many
as 400 people on that occasion lost their lives.
Similar catastrophes happened in 1842 and
1856, but fortunately with no great 10ss of
human life. Over the bridge we enter upon
the Rua Bella Vista, where the garden walls
on each side of the way are crowned with a
perfect paradise of 10vely flowers. Some
distance up on the \eft is the entrance to the
Portuguese Cemetery, a place no visitor to
Madeira should neglect to visito I t is a true
II God's Acre." Palms and tree ferns rear
their feathery fronds above the tombs j trees
of many kinds find a home and are things of
beauty in it; whilst all the p1ace is full of the
scents of the myriads of flowers that are
growing in such rich profusion everywhere
and the songs of the birds that are fluttering
about j and on every hand are the signs of a
10ving care for the last resting-p1aces of the
honoured dead. As is customary in catholic
countries, almost every grave bears a request
BURIAL CUSTOMS. 39
that the Visitor will of his charity pray for

the repose of the soul of the departed, but in
addition to this the Madeirense have adopted
the peculiar custom of enclosing in a glass
case a painting or a photograph of the de-
ceased, and affixing it to the headstone or
on the wall of ~he tombo The English have
now two cemeteries in Funchal-the Resi-
dents' and the Strangers'-but they have not
always been allowed to bury their dead on
the island. Up to 1765 the body of any
Protestant dying in Madeira was immediately
taken away and thrown into the sea, in order
that the dead heretic dog might not befoul
the land; and for some time after the per-
mission was obtained to inter the body in
consecrated ground, it is said that the rela-
tives and friends found it absolutely
necessary to employ a guard of soldiers to
protect the body from insult by the
populace.
But I must now leave Funchal to speak
of our excursion to the north of the island.
CHAPTER IV.
The excursion to the north si de : the diffi"culties and dangers
oE the way, and the lack oE accommodation on the road
- We prepare for the jOllrney- A false start-Strike oE the
hammock-men-The Cari1lflOS- The MOllnt Church-
Legend oE Nossa Senhora-Up in the mOllntains-The
race-Refuge hllt-Don Emanuel-The burriqueros-
The horses-An accident-The Ribeiro Frio- The
Metade ravine and Crusinhas-The peasantryand their
homes.
A JOURNEY over to Santa Anna and then on

to Boa Ventura and São Vincente, and home
by way of Encumeado de São Vincente and
the Jardim da Serra, is one not light1y to be
undertaken by the strongest, and should on
no account be attempted by those unable to
stand a considerable amount of physical
exertion, and to put up with rough accommo-
dation and rough fare. The way is difficult
and in places perilous, leading as it does
SCENE l:"i THE GRAND CURRAL.
EXCURSION TO THE N ORTII SmE. 4I
along the edges of precipices, the sides of

which in sorne places present a sheer wall of
rock between one and two thousand feet high,
across and around abysmal gorges, through
rocky torrent beds, and over the débris of
innurnerable landslides; sornetimes ascending
at an angle of So° or 60°, and at others de-
scending with such fearful abruptness that not
even the boldest cares to rernain on his horse
or in his hammock, but prefers to trust to the
security of his own legs, and, taking an alpen-
stock, makes the best of a painful journey
down to better ground. Oftentimes the path
dwindles to a mere track, and that, too, in
places where one false step on the part of the
horse would mean instant destruction to itself
and its rider; and it is no uncom mon thing,
on suddenly rounding a comer, to find your-
self apparently about to step over into
eternity. The inns that are met with on the
tour are very poor indeed, and offer no attrac-
tions to make one remain at them longer
than is absolutely necessary for food and
42 HOLIDAV WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
resto They are poorly furnished, and possess

so little sleeping accommodation that the
advent of allything like a party throws the
whole house, and, indeed, the whole village,
into confusion. The food to be obtained a t
. any one of these places is of a wretched
quality, and so badly cooked that it would
require the digestion of a strong, healthy
ostrich to proper1y assimilate it. Luxuries
they have none; coffee, cocoa, preserves,
and things of that nature must be taken by
the party, and the o~ry'way to secure a good
cup of tea is to take the materiaIs and brew
it oneself. But what is even worse than this
is, that between the regular halting-places
little, if any, refreshment, save an occasional
glass of wine or a dram of Aguardente, can
be obtairted, and it is therefore necessary to
carry the food that may be required before
reaching the end of the day's journey. But
in spite of a11 these drawbacks, no one pos-
sessing the requisite stamina should neglect
to make the touro There is 50 much that is
DIFFICULTIES OF THE WAY. 4.3
novel and interesting, such an endless variety

in the grand mountain scenery, and over all
such a wonderful charm, that the traveller,
A TraveJling Party.
tired as he may be at the end of each day,

feels himself amply compensated for all he
may have undergone.
The good people of Funchal who saw us
start out on our ever-memorable excurslOn

will not soon forget the sight j and the party
of (, mad EngIishmen" who went careering
round the island in the summer of I 89 I will
afford food for gossip amongst the villagers
for years to come. For we were a Iarge and
mixed assembIage of individuaIs. There
were forty-three of us in all: eighteen tra-
vellers (we had gathered up some of the
other visitors at the hotel), fifteen on horses,
three in hammocks, nine hammock-men,
fifteen burriqueros, and one bearer j and we
were of all sorts anel all sizes : tall, short, fat,
thin, old and young j and our costumes can
be best described as various. Had there
been a photographer at hand to "take" us
as we fiIed out of the hotel gates the pictU1"e
would have made his fortune. Not a man in
Madeira but would have felt it his bounden
duty to possess a copyat all costs, yea! even
though he sold all that he had to buy it.
An artist would have seen in the photo in-
finite possibilities. He could, for instance,
STRIKE OF THE HAMMOCK. MEN. 45
have taken it as his model for a great his-

torical painting, say the cc Retreat of the Ten
Thousand," or, better still, considering the
jnúejitl appearance of the native portion of
the party, cc Falstaff's Ragged Army."
Arrangements had been ma de over night
for nine hammocks and nine horses, and these
duly put in an appearance; but just as we
were starting the hammock-men struck work
and refused to stir until they were granted
double pay per day. This led to a scene,
and for a quarter of an hour we had a lively
time. Much strong language was indulged /'
in by both sides, but at last we ended the
dispute by sending all the men about their
business, though nine of them were subse-
quently re-engaged upon their accepting our
terms. This unpleasant incident almost led
to the abandonment of the excursion by those
who had been thus rudely dispossessed of
their hammocks, as they did not feel equal to
making the whole journey on horseback; but
a little persuaslOn induced them to take
horses as far as the Mount Church, where

we hoped to be able to engage more ham-
mocks. 00 arriviog at the church, however,
we found to our disgust that the refractory
bearers had forestalled us by sendiog a de-
putation of their oumber, which had warned
the Mount men of our comiog, and had in-
duced them not to engage except 00 the
terms proposed. This they were the more
ready to do as they were conscious that with
them lay our last chance of hiriog men for
that day, and they believed this fact would
force us to give io to their demaods; but, un-
fortunately for them, they had not calculated
upon the obstinacy of the Britisher. They
had no sooner refused our offer than we
unaoimously agreed to push on as we were,
no matter whether some of us broke our
necks or noto Having come to this decision
--not a word was said nowabout abandooing
the tour-we moved off, when, findiog their
little scheme had miscarried, the men clus-
tered round, and wanted to be taken on at
NATIVE TOBOGGANING. 47
our price; but we told them, as politely as

we could, that we would see them at Jericho
first, and rod~ off amid.~t a general chorus of
Portuguese bad language.
The church of Nossa Senhora do Monte-
the Lady of the Mount-is situated at an
elevation of 2000 ft. above the leveI of the
sea, and is about one hour's climb from Fun-
chal, up a very steep, but in other respects
good, road. The great feature of this road
is the carinhos, or hand sledge, a small wicker
basket set on runners, and capable of holding
two persons, which makes the journey between
the Mount and Funchal in tcn nzz·nutes. A
ride in one of these is the nearest approach
to tobogganing I know. I t is in the charge
of one and sometimes two men. Upon taking
your seat the steerer gives it a push to start
it on its way, and then, jumping on a ledge
behind, allows it to forge ahead until you feel
the wind skimming past you in a most ex.
hilarating manner. Down, down you go,
trees and houses flying past, until in ten
minutes by the watch you have traversed the

ground which on the up journey gave you one
whole hour's hard work.
To the ordinary visitor the church does not
present much of interest, but it is very dear
to the mariners of the island, who frequently
before starting on a voyage make offerings to
the saint. I t is related of her that she once
by a miracIe saved the inhabitants from death
by famine. The story runs thus, as far as I
can gather : -
Food was terribly scarce and the people
saw nothing before them but starvation. ln
this great extremity some one, fortunately,
bethought him of Our Lady of the Mount,
and a pilgrimage of the principal inhabitants
was at once made to her shrine. Their
prayers prevailed, and to the joy of the
famishing the next morning avesseI laden
with com arrived from Lisbon. The crew of
the ship, to the won der of the hearers, related
that during a caIm a white figure had risen
from the sea and dragged the ship into the
TIrE RACE. 49
harbour j and the truth of this story was con-

firmed when it was found upon examination
that the clothes of the saint were saturated
with sea water.
Leaving the Mount Church and the crowd
of excited hammockmen, we made our way
up through a lovely hollow, wooded with
chestnut trees, and then through a large
plantation of pines, finally reaching the bare
slopes above the are a of cultivation and into
a considerably cooler atmosphere. Here, for
a mile or so, tbe track ran over a piece of
table-land, and the temptation to indulge in
a canter was too great to be resisted,
especially as the horses were straining to be
off. ln spite, therefore, of the warnings of
the guides to reserve our strength and that
of the horses, eight or nine of us started
away at a hand gallop, "just for a spin," as
we werc careful to say and firmly intended,
but we had not gone far before the blood
began to mount, the speed increased, and
soon we were tearing along as if 111 a race
E
50 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS IN MADEIRA.
for life. We had a glorious run, and the

horses, 1 am sure, enjoyed it quite as much
as we did.
Beyond the table-Iand the road again
ascends, and we toiled along up through the
upper part of the Ribeiro de Jão Gomes to
Pouso, wh ere, outside the refuge hut, we
halted to rest the horses and wait for the
hammocks. The hut is situated at a height
of 4550 feet above the sea, and is one of
several erected hy an Englishman at different
spots in the mountains for the shelter of be-
nighted or storm and fog caught travellers.
I t is built of stone, and consists, if my
memory serves me correctly, of only two
rooms. Standing on a rough table in one
of these rooms we sawa specimen of the com
hand-mill, which is in common use in the
island. lt is of an almost exact1y similar
pattern to that used by the Arabs and
Moors, and, as with them, most of the grind-
ing is done by the women.
As soon as 1 alighted from the horse, Don
A PERSISTENT BEGGAR. 5I
Emanuel, my burriquero, came up hat in

hand, and, with a sad, sad look on his dirty
brown face, begged the mighty senhor-
myself, be it known-to be pleased in good-
ness and charity to bestow on a poor and
lowly burriquero the "two bits" necessary
to purchase the wherewithal to quench his
great thirst, and to pledge the hea1th and
prosperity of the great and good senhor
whom it was his great honour and delíght to
serve. He got his drink. That líttle speech,
though, was nothing to what he could do
when he laid himself out. . Don Emanuel
was a demon to beg. At every halt he
wanted money for drink, and tobacco he was
" cadging" ali day longo Each request was
couched in the most magniloquent language,
and if I refused he looked at me so reproach-
fully that it made me feel I had done him a
gnevous wrong. At least, it dic1 until I found
that his begging was pretty much a matter
of form, and that it real1y did 1l0t affect him
much whether he got what he wanted or nut.
E 2
I felt ({ sold" when I made that discovery,

for that look of his had haunted me j but I
felt worse when, in response to the usual
petition for tobacco, I showed him that my
stock was exhausted, he calrnly took out a
well-filled pouch, rolled a cigarette, and
coolly asked me for a match-the villain. I
could forgive him a 10t though, for he was
very attentive, and did his best by pointing
out bits of scenery, giving me the Portuguese
names for places and things, and playing
tricks on his fellow burriqueros to make the
tour enjoyable. .
The burriqueros, generally, are very good t
fellows, barring their begging propensities--
my man was above the average in that
respect-and take great care of the horses
and travellers committed to their charge.
They perform the duties of groom and guide,
and are besides, very fair farriers, alwàys
carrying with them the neceSS<1ry materiaIs
for shoeing the horses. Ordinarily the
burriquero walks by the side of the horse,
THE BURRIQUEROS. 53
but at every nangerous spot he takes hold of

its head, walking always, if he can jind roam,
A Burriquero.
on the outside of the path, and leads it along,

encouraging it at the sarne time by sign and
sound j where the path is very steep or IS

leveI enough for a trot, he takes hold of the
tail and allow5 the animal to drag him alongo
The horses, splendid animaIs worth from 801.
to IOül. each, are specially bred to the work,
and are able to climb with the ease and
surety of cats. I t was very interesting to
\vatch them clamber over the masses of rock
which in places barred the way. First one
fore foot and then the other was planted
carefully on the upper surface; next, with
a spring, the hindquarters were brought up,
and for a second the animal remained there,
all four feet together, poised like a goat j and
then with the sarne deliberate care it de-
scenc1ed to the path on the other side.
Resuming our journey in a cold and thick
mist which had come on, we travelled for
some time without seeing much of the
scenery, but present1y, as we crossed the
ridge, and descended to the Feteiras, the
clouds broke away, disclosing a magnificent
view of the tops of Pico Ruivo and Canario,
AN ACCIDENT. 55
two of the highest of the mountains. Im-

mediately over the ridge the road descends
rapidly, passing through a district covered
with beautiful groves of trees and a luxuriant
vegetation. As we foIlowed the windings of
the path we caught occasional glimpses of
the hamle ts perched on the mountain sides,
and of the peasants hard at work in their
com patches, cutting and carrying their
scanty wheat harvest. Further on tl?e path
zig-zags down the face of a tremendous, al-
most perpendicular cliff, and here one of our
party met with an accident that might easily
have been fatal. The strain of the descent
was so great that the crupper of his saddle
gave way with a jerk that precipitated him
over the horse's head on to his face and
hands. Though somewhat stunned and cut
about, he was, fortunately, not seriously
injured; but had he fallen sideways from the
horse or rolled after falling, nothing could
have saved him from death, as no protection
whatever exists to save a fall over the cliff
S6 HOLIDAY WANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
face. At the bottom of this cliff runs the

Ribeiro Frio, or cold stream; at the time we
saw it, a pretty little brook babbling its way
past waving ferns and flowering shrubs, but
in winter a wild torrent roaring and dashing
over the huge rocks in its bed anel sweeping
everything before it. I t is crossed by a sub-
stantiai stone bridge at a very lovely part of
its course. The view from the bridge on
either side is simply exquisite. I cannot
understand why English artists have not yet
made Madeira their happy hunting ground.
I t cannot be for lack of beautiful subjects for
the brush, nor on account of the absence of
a good painting light; but it may be due
very largely to the scarcity of accommoda-
tion in the interior. Be this as it may, this
I know: a rich harvest awaits the man who
first overcomes the difficulties in the way and
transfers to his canvas some of the lovely
scenery that abounds.
Ascending again, we present1y carne upon
a wonderful view of mountain and valley.
THE RIBEIRA DA METADE.
TIJE METADE RAVINE AND CRUSINHAS. 57
At a great depth below us flowed the Metade

stream, winding its way through lovely bits
of scenery on the road to the sea, whilst
3000 feet above towered the tops oí the
mountains of Areeiro, Pico Ruivo, and the
Torres, and to the north lay the Penha
d'Aguia and one of the Cortado peaks.
From this point for some little distance the
scenery, though charming, was of a more
homely character, but from the top of Pao
Bastião leading into the Metade ravine we had
a grand view across the gorge of the rugged
castellated sides of Areeiro and the other
mountains around Pico Ruivo. At Crusinhas,
which is a short ride [rom this spot, we
called the midday halt. One after another
the stragglers aJld laggards of the party
carne up, and when all were assembled a
grassy spot on the side of the ravine was
selected, wine was obtained from the little
.fonda hard by, th ~ luncheon basket was
opened, and pressing two of the hammockmen
into our service as waiters, we made a most
enjoyable luncheon: exerci se and the moun-

tain air had given us the best of appetites.
Crusinhas.
A HILLSIDE LUNCHEON. 59
During the time we were at lunch we were

surrounded by ali the brats of the hamlet,
who, speechless and motionless, sat watch-
ing every action with a strangely blended
expression of curiosity and wonder stamped
on every little face. They were very scan-
tily dressed, these children, the boys rejoic-
ing in a ragged pair of knickers or trousers
and a shirt, and the girls in a short
frock, but the head, feet, and legs of ali
were innocent of any covering whatever.
Clean they were not, their best apologists
could by no stretch of the imagination say
they were j but that was scarcely to be
wondered at when the parents were them-
selves dirty and the houses (save the mark!)
Iittle better than pigsties. Some idea of the
ordinary peasant's hut may be gained fram the
photograph, except that the one here shown is
raised above the ground, which is very unusual,
and also reveis in the additional gIory of a
window. Usual1y they are built on the ground,
the side walls only about four or tive
feet high, contain 0111y one miserab1e apo10gy

for a room, possess no window, and no floor-
A Peasant's Home.
PEASANT LIFE. 61
ing save the bare earth; and in this hovel

father, mother, and four or five children
herd and sleep. I believe it is use1ess attempt-
ing to introduce reforms. Like the Chinese,
they say that what was good enough for
their fathers is good enough for them, and
would ostracize, and have ostracized, men of
their number who tried to introduce improve-
ments. We saw the oxen treading out the
com on the threshing fioor as they did away
back in Scriptural times, and the peasant
driving them strictly observing the command :
"Thou shalt not muzzle the ox when he
treadeth out the com." The implements of
husbandry in use are very rude, and gener-
ally they are very much behind the times. ln
one thing, however, they excel, and that is in
politeness. No traveller passing through the
villages can fail to observe this trait of their
character; for curious as the people are to
look at a stranger, and though they run to
the roadside to see him pass, they invariably
remove their hats and salute him as he is
- _._- - --------------
passing. And should he speak to one of

them, the villager . remains uncovered the
whole time the conversation lasts, and what
is still more noticeable is, that if the vil-
lager desires to speak with the stranger, h~
politely removes his hat and calmly awaits,
in silence, the request to state his business.
No matter how long the time may be, the
villager never speaks until he is told he
may.
After a short rest we remounted our horses
and continued our way to Santa Anna, cross-
ing the bottom of the great ravine of Ribeiro
Secco by a queer little bridge almost hidden
by the trees and shrubs which surround it.
Once over the bridge we had to climb again up
a difficultand dangerous path strewn with large
boulders and jagged rocks. Men anel horses
streamed with perspiration, and several times
during the ascent we had to haIt to breathe the
animaIs. Arrived at the top, we spent some
time inhaling, as it were, a magnificent
panorama of sea, sky, and hnd. For we
lN SIGHT OF THE NORTH COAST. 63
were now within sight of the north-east

coast with its rocky islets, towering head-
lands, and precipitous cliffs, against the bases
of which old ocean dashes itself in white
crested waves that lash the rocks with thun-
dering sound. Below us, and stretching
away to the north, lay a bank of clouds that
shut from view the sea beneath it, but break-
ing suddenly off, gave to the water which we
could see between it and the horizon the
appearance of being elevated above the
clouds. To the east and west of these clouds,
far as the eye could reach, stretched the
great A tlantic, its bosom, illimitable though
it seemed, innocent of the smallest vestige
of a living thing.
Santa Anna was only distant él.bout one
hour's ride, over a fairly good but very dusty
road; and heartily glad we were when we
rode up to the inn and dismounted. We
were thoroughly tired out, one man being so
exhaust~d that we had to put him to bed at
once.
CHAPTER V.
The Hotel Figueira-Santa Anna-The mill-The dinner-
Round the village-We go to bed-Cockroaches !-We
resume our journey-The Church of S. Jorge-A
dangerous path.
TIlE Hotel Figueira, as the mn is called, is

only a very small house, and how, therefore,
to accommodate so large a party was a
problem that the well-conditioned host had
not solved upon our arrival, though he had
been warned to prepare for our coming.
" Gentlemen," said he, in response to our
inquiries, " J will do the best I can, but I
have only three bedrooms to place at your
disposal. "
" N ow, my friend," said our spokesman,
" don't worry yourself overmuch about bed-
rooms. House our two ladies and their re-
spective husbands properly, give the remainder
SANTA ANNA.
of the party a ' shakedown ' anywhere, and all

of us something to eat, and we shall be right
enough. Vve didn't come out here expecting
to find HôteI Métropoles scattered about in
every village."
" Gentlemen," said the landlord, in a tone
that spoke volumes, "you have made me
glad. I will provide for you."
Pending the advent of dinner, after a
much-needed wash, some of us started out
to see Santa Anna. We saw it. I t didn't
take us long, and we were not impressed
with its beauty. I t consists of two hoteIs,
a water-mill, and a scattered row of huts of
the kind I have mentioned. There is a
chapeI some little distance away, but I do
not think that is within the lirnits of the
village. The mill, which is only a little one-
storied buiIding, large enough to contain the
stones comfortably, is peculiar in its con-
struction, and is representa tive of all those
existing in the country districts of the island.
The water from the levada, or water-course,
F
beside which the mill is built, falIs into a

large movable pipe of wood, wide at the top
and narrow at the bottom, and issuing from
the narrow end falIs upon and causes to
revolve a turbine wheel connected by a
vertical shaft with the mill stones. When it
is required to stop the mill, all the miller has
to do is to push the head of the wooden pipe
a little on one side and alIow the water to
fall over the shoot and run away.
Oh, that dinner ! I thought it was never
going to be ready. We were absolutely
famished before it put in an appearance. It
was of no use attempting to hurry the cooks
-they were Portuguese, and objected to
being hurried. We fumed, we stormed, we
carried the kitchen by assault-and wished
we hadn't : the sight àeadened our appetites
considerably. But at last we had the satis-
faction of seeing the food on the table-and
that was all the satisfaction some of us had.
Jt was no use; I tried all the dishes, but
went hungry from the table. Madeira is said
ROUND THE VILLAGE. 67
to be a very healthy place to live in; longevity

is the rule. After rny experience I endorse
that staternent fully, especially where chickens
and ducks are concerned. I t is rny private
opinion the Ark carried those we had served
up that night for dinner. Tough and un-
palatable was the judgment on all the rneat
provided, and the other things were corre- .
spondingly bad.
Dinner over, we broke up into little parties
and wandered, some one way, and some
another, until bedtirne.
Our contingent strolling aimlessly through
the village, down towards the sea, saw rnuch
to instruct and arnuse. ln one place we
carne across a little cluster of huts, grouped
almost like a South African kraal, the inha-
bitants of which, seated round a fire rnade in
the open spa ce in the centre, were cooking
the evening rneal, the fitful glare, for it was
now night, lighting up theirfaces in a rnanner
that rerninded one forcibly of one of Rern-
brandt's pictures.
F 2
68 HOLlDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
I was puzzled for some time during our

walk to account for the number of peopIe we
saw carrying beds anel bedding. I thought
at first it must be quarter-dayand the village
was te moving," but presently one of our
number suggested that perhaps they were
requisitioning the village on our behalf, and
that turned out to be the true explanation. Not
having enough materiaIs at the inn, the land-
lord had sent round the whole place soliciting
loans, and the result was a seemingly endle.ss
procession of men and women staggering
along under their contributions.
Back again from our walk, we found the
stone seat in front of the inn in the possession
of a party or serenaders who were discoursing
sweet strains. The music was fairly good,
but its beauty was sadly marred by the shouts
of merriment and general hubbub proceeding
from a kind of tap-room in which were con-
gregated all our hammock-men and burri-
queros, and a number of the villagers holding
high revel.
A DREADFUL NIGHT. 69
When the noise had somewhat subsided,

we retired to bed, but not to sleep. No j I
repeat, not to sleep-sleep is impossible in a
room where a lot of noisy, mischievous
fellows, like boys just back from the holi-
days, are engaged in making things lively.
The ladies next morning complained of no
sleep because of disturbances outside their
bedrooms j but the tel1- of us who occupied
the third bedroom, complained of no sleep
because of distnrbances z'nsz'de! I regretted
but once, and that was all the night, that I
was not of those who had elected to take
beds made up on the sitting-room floor.
Our room was over the kitchen-away
from the main building-and we had no
sooner settleddown to comparative quiet,
than there was a cry of,-
Cc Cockroaches, by all that's wonderful !"
" Where ? where ? "

cC There-crawling along the floor near
your mattress ! " ,
A yell, a jump, and our leader had
vacated his " shakedown " in a most hurried

manner.
" Oh, murder! I can't stand cockroaches
at any price. I don't mind mice, I don't
mind rats even, but cockroaches-ugh!"
and the look of disgust on his face as he
made that little speech was a sight to see.
We roared with laughter. te Don't laugh,
you fellows, 'tis no laughing matter. Fancy
those cold, creepy, slippery things crawling
over you ali nigh t- I sha11 take a rug, and
go out and sleep on the straw in the yard."
cc Don't be 50 foolish," said we. " You
may take violent cold, especialiy as you are
very tired and exhausted. Get your slipper,
and let us indulge in a beetle hunt."
And he did: we instituted a thorough
search, and the beetles had a m,auvaise quart
d'hezwe.
Scarcely, 50 it seemed, had we closed our
eyes in sleep, than the attendant Hebe began
clamouring at the door, and in a very
" grumpy " voice informed us it was time to
SANTA ANNA TO BOA VENTURA. 7I
be Up. We all felt perfectly wretched, but

a cold douche under the mill shoot brightened
us up considerably, and gave us some sort of
an appetite for breakfast. Breakfast, cou-
sisting of bacon and eggs, was soon de-
spatched, and at a fair1y ear1y hour we were
on the way again. No oue felt very bright
at starting-one man was so exhausted that
he had to dismiss his horse and take to a
hammock-but, after being a short time on
the road, we managed to shake off a good
deal of our lassitude and take some interest
in our ride.
The country for some distance round
about Santa Anna is comparatively leveI,
and possesses many of the characteristics of
an English county, sllch as Devon or Somer-
set, but on nearing the sea these features are
lost, and we plunge again into wild and rocky
scenery. Descending by a tortllollS, rugged,
and fearflll1y precipitous path, so dangerous
looking that many of our party left their
horses, we reached the ravine of São Jorge
near its mouth, where it has a depth of just

1000 feet, and crossed the stream at the
bottom by a stone bridge. From this point
we had a stiff climb up the other side of thc
ravine, aIong the sea face, untiI we reached
the vilIage of S. Jorge, where we caIled our
first haIt at a wayside jonda.
Whilst the horses were resting, two or
three of us went to inspect the church of S.
Jorge, which is hard by the main road. The
church, a pIain-Iooking structure, guilty of no
architecturaI pretensions, was closed, and we
despaired of seeing the interior, but happen-
ing to meet with a peasant who had access to
the keys, we were shown over the building.
Save in the chanceI and the littIe chapeIs
adjoining. the interior is aImost barren of
decoration and furniture; but in these pIaces
one can see on the most cursory examination
that many pious hands have worked diIigentIy
to produce the extraordinary state of gaudi-
ness and tawdriness which they exhibit. Dp
a flight of rickety stairs and across a very
TI-IE CRUCIFIED CI1RIST. 73
dilapidated and treacherous fioor we carne to

a kind of sacristy in which were stored the
relics, images, and banners used at their
religious festas. Amongst the apparently
confused heap we saw some excellent speci-
mens of wood carving, notably one piece, a
crucified Christ. I t must have been a master
hand that created that representation m
wood of the awful sufferings of " The Man of
Sorrows." Every muscle and every nerve
bore the evidences of the terrible struggle of
the death agony; and on the face, down
which rolled the great beads of bloody sweat,
what a look of agonized despair ! I t seemed
as if the artist must have been present at
Calvary in that fatal hour when earth trembled
and heaven mourned, and, as he strained his
eyes to gaze on the cross, heard with his own
ears that awful cry: cC Eli, Eli, lama Sabach-
thani ! "
Coming back to the horses, we found that
most of our party were lounging about the
little praza which the place possesses, and
74 HOLIDAY WANDERlN GS lN MADEIRA.
speculating upon the cause of our continued

absence. The church had escaped their
observation, and they were somewhat sur-
prised when we told them where we had been.
Several wished then to go and look at it, but
as our leader at this moment passed the
word to continue the journey, our would-be
church-goers had to leave with their desire
ungratified. Leaving São Jorge, we crossed
the deep ravine of Ribeiro Fundo and
gradually ascended to the Arco de S. Jorge,
from whence we had a glorious view of the
beautiful country at our feet, with its houses·,
cornfields, and orchards. Down into this
smiling land we descended, passing along
very narrow lanes, the walls of which were
covered with beautiful flowering plants, and
here and there roofed in with trellised vines,
or shaded by the ubiquitous fig. Mulberry
trees were numerous, and the fruit, as we
found, in a state of perfection; and in many
places we skirted fields of sugar-cane, yaros,
and roaize. ln l689 the Arco was the scene
A 75
of a great landslip, but so gradual was the

movement that the houses and trees which
covered the disturbed area were carried bodily
onward without being thrown down.
From the Arco to the end of the Entroza
Pass, the steadiness of the traveller's nerves
and the sure-footedness of his horse are put
to a very severe test; for the path is cut in
the face of a precipice which overhangs the
sea at a fearful height. Nearly I SOO feet
sheer below booms and thunders the Atlantic
billows, and to the sarne height above
stretches a solid wall of rock in places im-
pending over the path and shutting out the
face of the sun. The track is barely wide
enough to admit of the passage of a horse,
and what would be done if two travellers met,
goodness only knows-one of the wags sug-
gested they would have to toss up which
should jump over. It is also very rough and
uneven and covered with loose stones that
afford anything but a secure footing. A low
wall runs along lhe outer edge of it, but as
this has become very dilapidated and in

places-and these, of course, the worst parts
of the road-entirely destroyed, it gives
practically no protection". U p to this point
the journey had been enlivened by the quips
and cranks of our party and the antics of the
burriqueros, one of whom had somehow be-
come possessed of a pair of castanets and
used them vigorously, but now silence felI on
us alI. Our undivided attention was required
to enable us to pass safeIy this dangerous
part. One after another the horses were dis-
carded; it seemed safer to trust to one's own
legs, especially when one's steps were aided
by a good alpenstock-bordão de contro, as
the guides call it; but the stones punished
our feet dreadfully, and gave us a better idea
than we ever had before of the amount of
suffering endured by one undergoing the oId
penance of waIking with peas in his shoes.
At the bottom of the pass, on the bridge
which crosses the stream flowing from the
ravine, we waited until all the party had
A SHORT REST BY THE WAY. 77
safely assembled, and then, after resting

awhile, we moved on again, turning sharply
to the left up a rough, narrow little byeway,
bordered by high stone walls, which, at the
end of half an hour's rough ride, brought us
out near the inn at Boa Ventura, where we
intended to pass the night.
CHAPTER VI.
Boa Ventura-The inn-Besieged by children-The Church
of Santa Quiteria-Condition of the villagers, wages,
&c.-The system of land tenure-Those awful fleas-
The flea yarn.
GUIDED by the light of the previous night's

experience, my first inquiry at the inn was with
regard to the chance of obtaining a good
night' s rest, and I was delighted to find that the
possession of two houses enabled the worthy
landlord to house us without danger of being
haIed before the local tribunal on a charge
of overcrowding. M y friend and I secured
a bedroom between us in the inn itself, but if
we had been staying at the pIa ce for a few
days I think I should have preferred a room
in ,I my other house," which was quieter and
furthermore beautifully situated among the
BESIEGED BY CHILDREN. 79
vmes and fruit trees. From its windows a

glorious view was obtainable. Up and down
to the right and left stretched the beautiful
ravine, here showing a precipitous rocky side,
wild and repelling, and there a sunny slope
glowing with all the glories of 'a golden har-
vest; at one end bounded by the cloud-
capped rnountains, at the other by the
p'áthless sea.
N ot long after our arrival the mn was
besieged by all the halt, the larne, the blind,
and the comrnon quidnuncs of the village ;
and there wasn't a child within a radius of
miles but heard of our advent and ran, wa}ked,
crawled, rolled, or howled until it was carried,
to have a look at us. They carne and liter-
ally sat dOW1Z in front of the hostelry, and
absolutely refused to lea ve us. I t was very
ernbarrassing, for we found it irnpossible to
move a step without being followed at a re-
spectfu! distance bya srnall army of juveniles.
We went down to the church-so did the
children. We went to the stables-so did
the children. We went Up the road and

down the road-and so did the children.
When we walked, they walked; when we ran,
they ran; and when we stopped, they stopped
-my first experience of shadowing, and I
didn't like it. At the sarne time it was im-
possible to be angry with them, for they were
very quiet, maintaining an almost absolute
silence as they dogged our steps; and it
was evident they considered us very curious
objects. At last, after a protracted ramble
round the village, we got back to the inn,
but we did not lose the children. They
calmly resumed their seats round the door-
ways with an expression which seemed to
say, "Strangers do not visit us often, and
therefore we intend to have our fill now you
are here." We put up with this for two or
three hours, but at last their continued pre-
sence, and the thought that perhaps they
would remain outside all night, became so
wearisome that we decided to make a collec-
tion-not amongst the children, oh, no! don't
- -
'-~
WE MAKE A COLLECTION. 8I
mistake me. I know a collection is, urdi-

narily, a splendid thing to thin out a crowd.
I have noticed many times that, no matter
how interested people may be, no matter how
oblivious of the flight of time, if the hat is
just passed round it is astonishing how sud-
denly it occurs to everyone that business
presses. But in this case the collection was
made amongst ourselves to buy up the lease
the children seemed to hold of the ground
round the doors-a sort of "compensation
for disturbance." We subscribed all our
small money, and then gave something to
each child on the understanding that it went
home at once. The plan worked admirably.
It acted like a charm-for a time. For an
hour we were left to ourselves, but at the end
of that period the news of our generosity (?)
had spread all round the district, and from
all sides children could be seen trooping
towards the inn. The place was alive with
them-and they were bringing their parents
as well. To have bought up that lot
G
82 HOLIDAY W ANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
would have ruined every man of us, and we

could, therefore, do nothing but "grin and
bear it," as they say in the ' classics, and long
The Church of Santa Quiteria.
after the house was shut up we could hear

our visitors maintaining their vigil outside.
The church at Boa Ventura, dedicated to
TIlE CHURCH OF SANTA QUITERIA. 83
Santa Quiteria-a saint whose aid is 111-

valuable to the person unfortunate enaugh to
have been bitten by a mad dog-is a Yery
small, unpretentious littIe building with white
stucco walls and an apology for a tower at
one end. The interior is rather more highly
decorated than that of the churc h of S. Jorge,
some attempts having been made to brighten
and relieve the monotony af the white walls
by colouring the pulpit, the little choir 10ft)
and the short peculiar row of stalls which is
on either side near the 10ft. The fIoor pre-
sented a very barren appearance, as, save
for the two rows of stalls-these were really
above the fIoor-and about a dozen ardinary
three and four-legged stools ranged along the
walls, there were no seats whatever. The
organ was simply an exaggerated harmonium,
and in such bad repair that only very few
notes could be made to give out a sound.
It is 110t fram any want af piety 011 the
part of the peasantry that the majority af the
eountry ehurehes are sue h wretched buildings,
G 2
- --
ou the con trary the villagers are noted for

their earnest, sim pIe faith, though, unfortu-
nately, it is a faith sadly marred by supersti-
tion-they believe much in the efficacy of
charms and vows; it is the absence from
their midst of that wealth which is necessary
to the erection of stately fanes. The people
are terribly poor, supporting themselves by
the cultivation of little plots of ground that
yield them barely sufficient to keep body and
sou I togeth~r. They live almost entirely on
a vegetable diet, and money, real hard cash,
is a thing almost unknown. Work and com-
modities are paid for in kind, this mau doing
so much work for, or exchanging so much
produce with, that man for benefits received or
to be conferred. The nominal rate of wage
for labourers is very low, about 250 reis (225
reis to the IS.) without food, and 120 reis
with food-and not much of that-per diem,
though, as I have said, it is seldom that for
the work money is actually received. Yet
poor as they are, the villagers are a cheerful,
HOME, SWEET HOME. 85
happy, conlented race, and passionately fond

of their own little spots of land, and very Iittle
given to wandering. Very few of them have
ever moved out of the valley in which they
first saw the light, not even to visit the sur-
rounding villages; and the number of people
-hammock-men excepted-who have tra-
velled from the north side to Funchal might
almost be counted on the fingers of one hand.
This "stay at home" feeling is, however,
not confined to the very poor, for our host at
Boa Ventura was a man of considerable
wealth, as wealth goes in those parts, both
in land and houses, yet his daughters, fine
well-grown girls, ranging in age from fourteen
to twenty-six, and considerably above the
average in intelligence, had never been five
miles away from the house.
Following this short sketch of the life of
the peasant, and bearing in mind what was
said about his dwelling, etc., further back,
it may not, perhaps, be inappropriate to give
a short account of the system of lanu tenure
which obtains in Madeira, as tending to

throw a still further light on his mo de of !ife.
ln the first place it should be stated that
there is in the island no· law of primogeniture,
nor any law which excludes females from
succession; and that when a man who owns
real or personal property marries, one half of
it becomes vested in his wife, and in the
sarne way one half of the wife's property
becomes vested in the husband : no part of
the property can be sold without the consent
of both, and any property that comes to or
is purchased by either, belongs to both. On
the death of either the man or the woman,
the half which belonged to the deceased falls
to the children of the marriage in equal
shares, subject to the power of the testator
to dispose of one-third of the half which
belongs to him or her-this third being the
only part which can be willed away, unless
there happen to be a marriage settlement,
in which case the conditions of the settlement
regulate the division.
__ ____ ~_ .~ -;-e ~_~ ...
TI-IE SYSTEM OF LAND TENURE, 87
Until a few years ago, a great deal of the

land was entailed, the entail being termed a
morg'ado, and conferring on the owner a
territorial title of the sarne name; but the
law of entail is now abolished, and the
morgados may deal with their estates in the
sarne way as with any other property. The
relations which exist between landlord and
tenant are very peculiar. I had these pecu-
liarities ably pointed out to me by a gentle-
man resident on the island, but rather than
trust to my notes and my memory on the
matter, I give an extract from a book 1 which
deals with the subject;-" Every tenement
consists, in point of fact, of two portions
which belong to different parties. The
landlord (Senhorio) is the owner of the bare
land, and of the water which is brought
periodically to irrigate it; ali the rest,
cottages, walls, pavements, in short every-
thing which has been the work of man,
called collectively bemfez'torias, nay, even
1 Yate Johnson's " Madeira,"
fruit trees and plants, belong to the tenant

(colono), who, if he have a house upon the
land, is named casez"ro, if not, a meyro. The
produce of the land ought by law to be
divided equally between landlord and tenant,
a very unjust arrangement to the latter if
strictly carried out; but in effect the land-
lord foregoes his claim to a share of the
grass and vegetables, or the tenant somehow
manages that he does not receive it. If
quarrels arise between them, as is apt to
be the case, the landlord's position is little
improved by his insisting on a strict per-
formance of the tenant's liabilities, for as the
latter has absolute power over the land, it is
dealt with or neglected so as best to obtain
his own objecto I t is true the landlord can
eject the tenant after giving him due notice
to quit and on paying him for the benifút01ias,
but as the mode of valuing them makes lhe
price an excessive one, and as the landlord
is generally without ready money, the tenant
practically enjoys permanence of tenure.
LAND TENURE. 89
The latter on his part may seU the bemfei-

tonas to whom he wiII, for he is ahsolute
owner of them; and when he dies they pass
like any other property to his representa-
tives, whilst on the other hand the heir of the
Senhorio takes the property subject to the
rights of the tenant. ln creating these
bemfeitorias there is little to restrain a tenant
from improving his Senhorio out of his
property; for though he may not erect
houses for which he has a right to compen-
sation in case of eviction without consent of
the landlord, he may construct almost any-
thing eIse-walIs to support the land, levadas,
embankments, etc., at his pleasure. For
the purpose of putting avalue upon the
rights of tenants, two officers, calIed avalia-
dores, are appointed by the Cam ara or
municipal body to act in the concelho or
municipality; but the parties usually agree
privately upon their own valuers."
The dinner which was served to us at
Boa Ventura was a distinct advance on that
we had at Santa Anna, but still it left much

to be desired. There was the sarne arkaic
chicken, and the sarne cut of beefy leather,
but the vegetables, bread, and wine were
fairly good, and eggs were plentiful, so that
nane of us went hungry to bed. The tables
cleared, fun became the order of the day;
for with one exception we were all in capital
spirits, and feeling wanderfully well consider-
ing the fatiguing journeys we had made.
Jokes were perpetrated and stories were told
until the house rang again with our laughter.
Could any of our home-staying friends have
looked in on us as we sat or lounged about
the rooms in our travel-stained dress smoking
our cigars or pipes, they would have found
it impossible to believe that they saw before
them the men who, in Englancl, were known
by them as cc potent, grave, and reverend
signiors," fastidious as to dress and luxurious
as to tastes.
By about nine p.m. we were alI in bed,
and nothing short of an earthquake would, I
PULlCES IRRITANTES. 91
believe, have roused any of us from the deep

sleep which soon overtook USo I am sure we
all slept heavily, for no one knew the fleas
had been busy until he got up the following
morning. Then there was strong language,
and anathemas many and deep were hurled
at the whole race of puNces -irritantes. I
could not understand how it was so much
had been accomplished on our boJies in so
short a time. We were decorated from head
to foot in the most artistic manner. One
man was walking about a living atlas i he
had all the continents beautifully marked out
in red on his back, and the world on
Mercator's projectioll 011 his breast; another
looked like an illustrated catalogue to a
natural history museum. One said it was
evident to him that he was intended to re-
present the heavens on a starlight night,
for he could without difficulty identify all thp.
constellations, bllt he was somewhat at a loss
to explain a cluster which appeared on the
back of his hand, unless it was a II darned
, comet "thrown in to relieve the monotony.

I soIved the mystery at Iast, at Ieast I had
an explanation given me. I met a man
who was on terms of g'r eat intimacy with
the Ieading fleas of the place. He knew
all about the animal. What he didn't know
about the Madeira flea wasn't worth knowing.
He had made the matter the study of his
life, so he said. Said he,-
"I always carry some with me, Ioose, so
that I may note their actions."
" Do you ? "said I, moving off a pace or
two ,
" Oh, yes; but don't be alarmed" (with a
deprecatory wave of his hand), "they know
when they are well off. They are fleas of
taste, and prefer to remain on congenial
terri tory."
I said that was purely a matter of opinion,
but that as I wanted to hear his story I
would not dispute .
"WelI, then, you must know the native
flea is a large-hearted creature."
THE FLEA YARN. 93
I remarked that if his heart corresponded

with his body I could believe it.
II No," said he, "you have mistaken my
meanmg. I am referring to his moral
attributes."
(( Hang his moral attributes. What is that
to do with his bite?"
(( Individually nothing, collectively much."
II Oh, you mean he is a bit of a glutton,
and takes more than one bite-l quite agree
with you."
" No; I mean nothing of the sort-listen :
when you carne yesterday afternoon the fleas
which dwell in yon inn realized they were in
for a good thing, and, acting up to the kindly
instincts of their nature, they sent messengers
round the village to all and sundry, to come
to a banquet which would be provided that
night by a party of Englishmen."
II Did they come? "
II Did they come? Ask yourself that

questiono Yes, sir, they carne. N ot in files,
not in companies, but in whole battalions. I
happened to be out last night rather late,

and I saw them trooping up to the place
from alI q uarters. Yes, thousands of them,
all in orderly procession, with bands playing
and flags waving, and headed by the chiefs
of their respective localities."
I remarked that it must have been rather
a fine show.
"Oh, yes," said he, "'twas a wonderful
sight; but as parties of travellers are few, it
is not seen often. They were met on the
steps by the house party and told to walk
'right in,' and, judging from your appear-
ance, I should say the banquet provided was
not unpalatable."
His genius as aliar staggered me, but
when at length I found my tongue I told
him that after that I would back him to take
an easy first in any lying competition.
"What! Vou don't believe it? Why,
here is one of the cards of invitation," pro-
ducing a minute piece of pasteboard 011 which
appeared some hieroglyphics, which he pro-
ceeded to translate thusly : -
A GOOD LIAR. 95
" To the hungry, thirsty: feIlow fleas alI.

Come to the inn to night, come one and alI.
It will not matter what clothes you wear,
Vou will all be welcome: the dressed, the bare.
There will be food and drink for everyone,
So come in your thousands, stay away-none.
The grace will be short, you may learn it by rote-
It is given below to end up this Dote.
The dinner over, there '11 be amusement-some.
The invitation 's repeated: ali of you come.
TIIE GRACE.
One word is at this time as good as ten.
We're pleased to see you-tire away. Amen."
At this fresh exhibition of his powers I fair1y

gasped. Ananias was a fool to that mano
What a pity he was not bom at Bagdad or
some such place: he would long since have
made his fortune as a public story-teller.
Or failing that good luck, why did not the
fates decree that he be bom an Englishman?
ln that case his powers would ha ve assured
him success as a politician. As it IS, poor
fellow, his great talents are wasted.
.
CHAPTER VI I.
A difference of opinion-The burriqueros' breakfast-En
route to São Vincente-The villagefair-How ought we
to spend Sunday?-The Chapei of S. John-We bathe
-We lose our hOl·ses .
WE were Up soon after daybreak, as it was

our intention to ride right on through São
Vincente into Fun·chal the sarne day; but
what men propose, the gods, and the burri-
queros) dispose. When our leader told these
gentry that they were to prepare for . a long
day they flatly refused to go any further than
São Vincente. They said it would kill all of
them and the horses as well if we carried out
such a fearful day's work as we contem-
plated.
,e Beyond São Vincente," said they, e~ the
road is worse than any we have yet passed,

A DIFFERENCE OF QpINION. 97
ando lies high up in the mountains. I t wilI

need alI our care even in daylight to journey
safely, and it would be simply impassable at
Mountain Stream and Bridge near Boa Ventura.

11
night; and night it would be long before we

had covered the worst part of the way.
There is but one shelter hut on the moun-
tains, and that is far too small to accom-
modate so large a party."
Argument was useless; and not even the
offer of increased pay would make them give
way in the least. Some of the party were
particularly anxious to get back to Funchal,
and tried hard to indu ce their men to make
the attempt, but in vain: one and all re-
mained deaf to entreaties and threats. We
grumbled and growled and said things not
complimentary to burriqueros in general, and
ours in particular.
Said one: ,( It is evident1y a pre-arranged
plan amongst them; they want to be out
another day. This excursion suits them ad-
mirably, and they want to make it last as long
as possible."
Another formed a resolution to walk on
from São Vincente and cndeavour to reach
Funchal that night on foot; but failing to
TIIE BURRIQUEROS' BREAKFAST. 99
persuade any one else to accompany him in

such a reckless undertaking, he abandoned
the idea. Finding the men obdurate, we
finally gave in-there was nothing else for
us to do j but I must confess it was with a
very iII grace.
This matter settled as they desired, the
men set about preparing their breakfast, and
this they did somewhat in the manner of the
trappers of whom I used to read in my boy-
hood's clays, in the tales of Fennimore
Cooper and others of that ilk, with this ex-
ception, that instead of first shooting the
breakfast, they obtained from the little
Cc shanty " in the village which did duty for a
butcher's shop-and tallow chandler's, too!

for that matter--a portion of fresh meat-I
believe it was meat, it looked something like
it, but if anyone asked me to name the animal
that furnished it, I should answer 1Zon pos-
sumo This was then cut into slices and
threaded on sticks-one stick to a man-
about a yard long and half an inch in
II 2
100 HOLlDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
diameter, and the sticks suspended in the

smoke and flame of a wood fire which one of
their number had kindled op a piece of waste
ground near the inn. Whilst tbe meat was
receiving the amount of broiling and smoking
necessary for the due titillation of their
palates, the men lounged about, smoking
cigarettes and "skylarking " with one
another. The stock of animal spirits with
which these men are blessed is simply mar-
vellous. I t is apparently, like the widow' s
cruse, exhaustless; for from the first thing
in the inorning until the last thing at night,
no matter how hard the work, how rough tbe
journey, or how poor the fare, they are bub-
bling over with fun and c, divilment." As
soon as the meat was ready the sticks were
withdrawn from the fire, and the men, seating
themselves on a heap of stones hard by, and
acting on the old saying that "fingers were
made before knives," proceeded to despatch
the breakfast without more ado, washing
down the bread and meat with a draught of
BOA VENTURA TO SÃO VINCENTE. 101
pure water from the levada; but as it was

Sunday morning, they found it necessary to
honour the day, and so they ended the meal
by taking each a glass of aguardente, neat.
A bit of the North Coast
Soon after this we started for São Vincente.

The road for the first part of the day's jour-
ney was bad, very bad. ln places it lay
I02 HOLIDAY \VANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
along the face of overhanging preClplces,

down which the water streamed from innu-
merable springs. I t was most amusing to
see the different devices we adopted to try
and escape those little cascades. Sometimes
the horses were abandoned, and we sidled one
by one along with our backs scraping the
rocks behind. At others we fixed our hats
firmly on our head, touched up the horses,
and made a dash for it; but in spite of alI our
efforts "\Te got very nicely sprinkled. Often
we were picking our way slowlyand painfully
over the débris of falIen rocks, the footing
terribly insecure, and the track, such as it
was, no more than three or four feet wide,
and on the outer side, in the event of a fall,
no stopping place this side ihe grave. ln
one spot where the road has been hewn out
of the solid rock high above the sea, the
roof, if one might so term it, is so low that,
to avoid being dragged fram the saddle, it
is necessary almost to adopt aí1 I ndian trick
and ride with the body extended along the
TIm VILLAGE FAIR. 103
side of the horse. At length we descended

to the leveI of the sea, and continued our
journey for some distance along its edge,
passing e1t route a great number of patches
of flax spread out on the stones to bleach.
It looked almost like a haymaking, as onc
saw the peasants wilh what, at a little dis-
tance, appeared to be rakes careful1y turning
the rows so as to expose the under surface
to the rays of the aImost vertical sun.
I fancy I hear someone saying: li But it
was Sunday. SureIy they do not work on
Sunday?" Oh, yes lhey do. Sunday with
them is not such a dull, spiritless sort of day
as with uso Many of the labourers who are
otherwise engaged during the week take
advantage -of that day to work on their own
little pIots. The village markets and fairs
are held on that day, and the lads and lasses
troop in from the adjacent mountain sides to
see the sights and enjoy a song and a dance.
At a little village, at which we halted to rest
the horses, the fun was in {ull swing when we
104 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIl{A.
arrived. Picture to yourself a brilliant blue

sky, a burning sun, a straggling street of
highly coloured, irregular little houses, a
double row of trees casting a delightful shade,
and under them a moving crowd of gaily-
dressed, or partly-dressed, men, women, and
children. Here on the stump of a tree a
pedler expatiating on the virtues of the charms
and the beautiful quality of the finery COll1-
posing his stock-in-trade, and around him a
crowd of delighted peasants laughing at his
jokes, and accepting with great good humour
his occasional satirical allusions to them-
selves. Next him, spread on the ground, a
quantity of figs, bananas, melons, potatoes,
batatas, etc., with an old lady seated in the
middle presiding over the display. Next, a
table doing duty for a butcher's shop.
Further on a man with a supply of various
agricultural implements; then more pedlers
and more improvised stalls. Not forgetting
to incIude the peripatetic quack, who, with
loud voice and earnest mien, first persuades
How OUGHT \VE TO SPEND SUNDAY. lOS
his hearers that they are suffering fram all

the ills that flesh is heir to, and then recam-
mends the universal panacea which he alane
passesses. Include alsa, roaming through
the crawd at their awn sweet wiU, a herd af
milch gaats brought there to minister to the
thirsts af such as affect teetatalism; and add
to ali an ane side a background af mauntains
and an the ather the braad expanse af the
acean, and yau have the scene as we saw it
that sunny Sunday marning.
And here let me admit that I have a great
liking for thase parts af the warld where in
regard to the spending af Sunday men strain
nat at the gnat and swallaw the came1.
N at as in the "Land o' Cakes," for instance,
where, thaugh the iUegitimate birth rate is
in some caunties as much as 17 per cent.,l
it is cansidered a sin past all redemptian to
" whustle o' th' Sawbath." Nar as here, in
"free and enlightened" England, where thase
1 Retllrns for 1891: Wigtownshire, 17'7; KirclIdbright,
'S'I; Elgin, 14'6,
T06 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
intensely respectable, well-fed, well-groorned,

unctuous Pharisees usurp to thernselves the
functions of the God in whorn they profess to
believe, and condemn a rnan because-instead
of spending the greater part of the da y
cooped up in a church vaguely following the
duU prosing of some newly-fledged curate, or
the doctrinal disquisitions of some ritualistic
vicar, or in a chapei listening with a lively
satisfaction to the fulrninations of a modem
Boanerges, or in some wayside "Bethel"
ejaculating the proper quantum of Amens
and A lleluias as the sermon or the prayer
proceeds-the equivalcnts of the Cc hear,
hear," of a politicai meeting--he prefers to
indulge in some innocent recreation, or to
walk abroad into the fields where he can
com mune direct with nature, and through
nature with nature's God.
But to retum to the tour. After following
the path alang the sea shore for a few miles,
we at length carne upon the rnouth of the
ravine up which, at a distance of a mil e ar so
TUE RAVINE OF SÃO VINCENTE. 107
from the sea, lies São Vincente. The cliffs

here are very high and rugged, and the path
is in places tunnelled out of the overhanging
rock. Here, at the head of the ravine, IS a
Uiffs al the enlrance lo lhe Ravine of São Vinccnte.
very curious objecto Rising from the beach,

and distant a good many yards from the
rocks on either side, stands a solitary mass of
,"
108 HOLIDAY v.,r ANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
bIack rock, the forefront of one of the streams

of molten lava which at one time flowed down
the valley to the sea. On the top of this
rock is erected a rude cross of wood, and,
facing the Iand side, a door Ieading to a
little chapeI, or Ermida, which has been
hollowed out of the interior. This chapeI,
which is dedicated to St. John, was con-
structed in 1692, and annually, on the festaI
day of the saint to whom it is dedicated, mass
is celebrated within its walls. Leaving the
horses to rest and cool in one of the tunnels,
we made a pilgrimage to the chapeI, and
then, the "vater looking 50 coaI and seductive,
we induIged in the luxury of a bath. Three
of us, not caring to take to the water
amongst 50 many stones as hereabouts
strew the shore, wandered away up the coast
for some distance in search of a more
inviting spot, and, finding a suitable place, we
were soon disporting ourselves in the waves.
The bathing, however, was not a success;
the surf was too violent, and once, 111 an
A PRACTICAL JOKE, 109
eúdeavour to save my hat from being carried

out to sea, I was taken off my legs and had
the misfortune to scrape '!)ryself badly with
the shingle, On comil)~~1:~)he water we
were dismayed to find \..~\~~.~ut a dozen
men and women had congr{(~ .to look at
us just above where we had left our clothes,
\Ve made several ineffectual attempts to
send them away, and at last had to run the
gauntlet of their glances, and dress und er the
supervision of their prying eyes.
Coming back to where we had left the
horses, we were disgusted to find that the
whole party had moved off and taken our
horses with them, What we said just then
I wil! not repeat j but ali our in vocations,
imprecations, and so forth, failed to bring
back the horses, and we therefore had to
trudge on foot up to the vil!age, Our arrival
was heralded by a burst of cheers fmm the
jokists, and had the effect of attracting to
ourselyes the attention and the comments of
the crowd of people thronging the street.
N ot satisfied with that, one of our worthy

friends mounted a step and proceedecl to
introduce us to the natives as three gentle-
men, a little gone in the upper story, who
\Vere walking round the island for a wager,
and explaineJ that the spare horses had
been brought along with the party to take
back our corpses. He made quite an oration,
all in excellent English: they thanked him
for the information in as good Portuguese.
How long he would have orated if we had
not stopped him it is impossible to say. He
appeared to be good for an hour; but we
made a rush for the rostrum, captured the
speaker, and, rushing him off to the inn, made
him " stand drinks " for the three af uso
CHAPTER VIII.
São Vincente-Prison life-The inn-Preparation for din.
ner-The sacrifice-The flies-The Cascade of Poço de
Passasol-The hurriqueros in trouble-A curiosity-The
moonlight excursiono
SÃO VINCENTE is, comparatively, a large

village, and has quite a number of houses, of
a better order than usual, grouped round the
church, a large stone edifice with some pre-
tensions to a style. The people, too, have
the appearance of being better oH than the
inhabitants of the other villages through
which we passed. They dress better, appear
sprightlier, and have not that duU, heavy 100k
which seems to characterize the "hind" all
the world over.
We happened to reach the place just as
the ordinary Sunday street crowd was being
I I2 HOLIDAY W ANDl!:RINGS IN MADEIRA.
reinforced by the people leaving High Mass,

and we experienced some little difficulty in
forcing for ourselves a passage aI ong the
street. We \Vere literally hemmed in by the
people who gathered round to learn, if
possible, the meaning of so Iarge a caval-
cade.
Besides the church, the only public build-
ing which attracted our attention was the
prison, a stone building almost opposite the
house of prayer. I t had one occupant, a
young feIlow, who was being interviewed by
an old man, apparently his father, down
whose cheeks the tears were streaming. I
could not ascertain what particular crime the
prisoner had committed, but judging from
his demeanour--unless he was a hardened
offender or a consummate actor-nothing
very dreadf ui; for he was calmly leaning
against the wall, smoking a cigarette in the
most unconcerned manner possible.
The prisons on theisland are very primi-
tive affairs, not at all up to the English idea
PRISONS AND PRISONERS. 113
of what prisons should be, and the prisoners

are treated much more lenient1y than their
fellow - criminaIs in England. Ordinary
prisoners are, I am given to understand,
confined in a common room, male apart
from female. They are allowed to smoke,
to work for themselves, and to sell the
product of their labour to the passers-by,
to hold interviews with their friends, and,
apparent1y, to do pretty much as they please,
save walking away free men. Yet, notwith-
standing this leniency, crime is almost un-
known, and what there is consists almost
entirel y of petty larceny-water-stealing is
one form, water being a valuable commodity.
N cone thinks of locking up his pIace to
keep out burglars. These pests are, like
snakes in Ireland, never seen-banished,
perhaps, by similar supernatural agency.
Sentences, I believe, are not very severe,
and in no case is capital puni.shment inAicted.
CriminaIs whom we shouId condemn to death
are transported to th e Portuguese colonies,
I
114 HOLIDAY \VANDERINGS lN l\lADEllU.
or to Lisbon, where they are employed in

vanous ways.
HaH an hour's sharp riding from the
village up the ravine brought us to the inn,
a long, low, stucco-fronted building, standing
in a small flower-garden, not remarkable for
its beauty or its well-kept appearance. We
had not been able to send any warning of
our coming, as, until we started. we had no
idea of making this our stopping-place for
the day, and consequently we found nothing
prepared, and inquiry showed that we should
be fortunate if we obtained anything like a
dinner, even after the lapse of several hours.
As I bave said, tbe inns in tbe country are
very poor1y " found," and to avoid the risk of
going dinnerless to bed, and a possible chance
of baving no bed to go to, it is absolutely
necessary for the traveller to waro the inn-
keeper to prepare for his arrival. Fortunately
for us, tbe ino was empty, and we bad, tbere-
fore, no difficulty in obtainiog sleeping roam,
such as it \\Ias; but food was another matter.
115
Messengers were sent off at once into the

village for supplies, with orders to put the
best Ieg foremost, and a raid was organized
and made by the serving-maids on the poultry
belonging to the inn. Such a cackling and
Buttering, as one by one the sacrificial vic-
tims were captured and done to death !
Said I to myself: "More ancient chickens,
or I'm a Dutchman! I shaIl really be
ashamed to look a fo\\'I in the face soon.
What a shame that after such a long and
honourable career as barn-door ornaments,
these poor things should meet such an igno-
minious end-butchered to make-not a
Roman holiday-but a miserable dish of
indigestion."
They avenged themsel ves, however, for
after eating them they caused such a dis-
turbance in our internal economy, that we all
swore by the Styx to eat no more chickens-
in Madeira.
The Bies in the house were awful. Yes,
a7.vjit! is the onIy word that adequately
I 2
describes them. I tried to snatch a little

sleep whilst the dinner was being prepared,
but sleep was entirely out of the question
with those fiends buzzing about the roam,
crawling ove r my face, tickling my nose,
stinging my hands, and generally playing
the mischief. I suffered dreadful tortures-
Tantalus never experienced such. At last
I could stand it no longer: I got up and
rushed fram the roam almost beside myself,
and ready to run amuck " at my best and
Cc
dearest friends-why the Egyptians required

any more plagues after the flies is altogether
beyond me.
Unable to indulge in a siesta, I left the
house and wandered airnlessly up the valley
surrounded by the beauties which here Dame
Nature has spread with so lavish a hand.
The place is almost a paraàise. I t is im-
possible in any mere word-picture to do
anything like justice to it: such mountains,
such valleys, such streams, such water·
falis, such trees, such ftowers i and over
NATURAL BEAUTIES. 1I7
them alI such a continuous pIay of ever-

varying lights, that they present to the eye
the brilliant, never-ending, colour-glories of a
kaleidoscope.
Amidst such charms it is impossible to
feel out of tem per long, and coming presently
upon the beautiful cascade of Poço de Passa-
sol, where the water, falling from a height of
about seventy feet, drops into one of the
loveliest moss-lined, ivy-girt, fern-crowned,
rock basins it is possible to imagine, the
last traces of my ill-humour vanished, and
then,-
" Attempered, eager now to roam .
. . . . forthwith I left the bank,
Along the champain leisurely my way
Pursuing, o'er the ground, that on aI! sides
Delicious odour breathed. A pl<:.asant air,
That intermitted never, neve r veer'd,
Smote on my tem pIes : at which the sprays,
Obedient all, lean'd trembling to that part
Where first the holy mountain casts his shade,
Yet were not so disorder'd, but that sti!!
U pon their to ps the feathered q uiristers
Applied their wonted art, and with fu11 joy
Welcomed those hours of prime, and warbled shrill

Amid the leaves, that to their jocund lays
Kept tenor; even as from branch to branch,
Along the piny forests 011 the sbore
or Chiassi, ro11s tbe gath'ring melody,
When Eolus hath from his bosom loosed
The dripping South."
When I got back to the inn I was hailed
by one of my companions and requesled to
" Come here a minute."
He was sranding alongside the stable-door,
talking to the burriqueros who were scattered
about the grass in various attitudes, and en-
gaged in various occupations.
I did as I was bid, and on reaching him,
he remarked, "I am sorry I was one of those
who grumbled at the poor beggars thls
morning because they declined to go further
than São Vincente."
" What is the matter, then?"
" Why, there is scarcely one of the poor
devils whose feet are not a shocking sight.
How they have managed to get along at all
is a mystery to me. " And it was true-I saw
TIm VrSITORS' BOOK. I '9
for myself. The native boot, made of thin

buff leather, with no heel and only an apology
for a sole, g-ood as it is to prevent slipping
over the rock.s, affords to the foot very !ittle
protection against the sharp stones which
are met with on the way; it is easily cut
through and destroyecl, as we saw in this
case, and the result is, cuts, blistcrs, and
sores. We obtained some vaseline and lint
from one of the party who had provided him-
self with one or two litlle things of this
nature, in case of accident, and did our best
to give the sufferers a liUle relief. The poor
fellows were very grateful for our attentions,
but made light of their injuries, saying that
they would be all right in the morning.
The inn possesses a curiosity in the shape
of a visitors' boolc It was brought 1)1 to us
during the evening by the host, who, with
many bows and smiles and much palaver,
asked us to be pleased to add to the praises
of himself and his house which we should
find recorded within its covers by former
120 HOLIDAY WANDER1NGS lN MADEIRA .
. visitors to the hostelry. Poor fellow.

c, Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis fony to be
wise," is a proverb that fits his case exactly.
I t IS fortunate for him he does not un-
derstand English; and I hope for the sake
of future visitors who may want to enjoy a
quiet laugh that he will not take it into his
head to learn our language; for if he does,
that book will disappear from mortal ken.
We were greatlyamused with the remarks
made by som e of the writers. One grumbles
in not the mildest of language at the accom-
modation, anoth er at the cooking, and a third
then takes an innings and fires away about
the charges. One details his woes in three
or four pages of bad verse, and another
pithily advises the wayfarer to look after th e
hostess, but to shun the host as he woultl a
pestilence. Scattered through the book is
some valuable information respecting guides,
hammock-men, paths, Vlews, etc., 111 the
neighbourhood. penned by sensible visitors
for the assistançe of those following after
"'
A MOONRISE EXCURSION. J2 1
them. The book, a thin foolscap volume,

was commenced in 1871, and, though some
of the writers have taken as many as four ar
five pages for their lucubrations, it is not yet
more than half full; â sign, I take it, that
travellers are not "as plentiful as black~
berries."
N ot content with our day's wanderings,
two or three of us arranged a little excursion
to see the moon rise on the mountains; and
well were we repaid for our walk. Reachi ng
an eminence favourably situated for our pur-
pose, we sit down in the darkness and wait.
Soon a soft greyish light, almost like the
dawn, appears in the sky, becoming stronger
and stronger every instant, until at last the
wild ragged mountain-tops between us and it
show up black and terrible. N ow above tbe
highest crags rises the shining moon, and
into light and life spring the peaks which,
until this instant, were sbrouded in tbe
mantle of nigbt. Higher and bigher up the
heavens clim bs the brilliant orb, and lower
- -~-~- - --
122 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS IN MADEIRA.
and lower down the mountain sides slink the

black shadows of the darkness. One by one
the lesser hills are crowned with a beautiful
light as slowly, silently, down creep the
moonbeams, and soon even the innermost
recesses of the lowest valleys are illumined,
by the magic rays. Every hill, every valley,
every tree, every sbrub is now adorned with
a glory which elevates, spiritualizes alI it
touches. Gone are the crudities, the mean-
nesses, the wretchedness of the human
habitations, only too apparent in the gIare
of the noonday sun. No longer are the huts
scattered about the hillsides mere miserable
hoveIs: every one is now a little palace over
the threshold of which one expects to see
the fairies come tripping for their nightly
dance. Deep into one's very being sinks the
subtle influence of the scene; tbe body
sleeps, and the soul freeing itself from its
mortal trappings, soars away into the infini-
tude until it stands face to face with the
awful mysteries of the Great Unknown.
WHAT LIES BEYOND? [23
What am I? \Alhat is this life, this indefin-

able something which animates and sustains
my bodily framework, gives the powers of
thought and reason, enabIes me to buiId up
or pull down? Whence came it when
Lachesis commenced to spin the thread of
my existence? V/hither will it go when the
sbear~ of Atropos sball sever tbe spun tbread
from tbe distaff? But tbe answers to tbose
questions come noto Vain is tbe attempt to
lift the veil which bides the past, useIess tbe
effort to unIock the dread secrets of the
future. Beaten and bruised, the soul flutters
back to its earthly tenement, and, wakened
again, the body wanders home in tbe mOOI1-
liOght with the old, old hunger for "ligbt,
more light," still gnawing at its core.
,
- ___ o
:1
'\ I
I
I
CHAPTER IX.
The village ladies assist at the retirement for lhe night-
MI'. X. on national characteristics-Another accident-
On getting up early-The sunrise we didn't see-On
the road for Funchal-The Eucumeada Pass-Refresh-
ments at the shelter hut- The injured cow-On the
wrong track-Precipices and landslides-A cheer that
frightened the goats-Burriqueros' antics- Tlze Machado
sings-Rocha Alta and the Gr:md Curral- Too danger.
ous to ride-The Jardim da Serra-Our lUllch-Vle
arrive at Funchal.
"EARLY to bed and early to nse" was the

order issued after dinner by our chief, and,
acting upon it, some of the party were in bed
at aOout eight p.m., and three or four, part
oÍ the eight who occupied our chamber, were
retiring when we returned from our moonrise
excurSlOn. Unfortunately for these latter
;
gentlernen they had forgotten to draw the
blinds to the two windows which overlooked J
(
ii
, 11\1
_,~
i~_~_~~_____________ J
CURIOSITY OF TlIE VILLACE DA~IES. 12 5
and were on a leveI with, the road, alld were

blissfully unconscious of the fact that they
were affording infinite amusement to eight
women who were sitting outside watching all
their movements. Wc thought, of course,
that as soon as they saw us these ladies
woulcl cease their occupation and disperse,
but in this we were mistaken, not one'
offered to move-their curiosity was greater
than their modesty. This incident gave rise
to a curious little discussion, brought about,
direct1y, by one of our number volunteering
to go inside and teU our friends to elose the
blinds.
Cc Don't, for goodness sake," said Mr. X.,
a gentleman who had previously, on more

than one occasion, startled us with the
originality of his ideas, Cc Vou surely
wouldn't deprive these people of the oppor-
tunity of seeing how an Englishman goes to
bed I"
ce How an Englishman goes to bed I "
replied the first, return,ing to the group.
[26 HOLIDAY 'vVANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
ceEnglish people don't go to bed differently

to other people, do they? JJ
"I am not so certain of that," was the
answer of Mr. X. "I do not see why the
national characteristics should not betray
themseh'es as much in the manner in which
a nation goes to bed as in any other of its
actions. ln fact it seems to me they are
more likely to show themselves in this case,
as, apart from what takes place in himself,
the process of going to bed is, perhaps, one
of the most mechanical of a man's life. From
an early age, week in, week out, he has done
the sarne thing in exactly the sarne way, until
he has long ceased to think of the manner in
which he shall set about it; and I verily
believe that not one man in twenty can tell
you exactly what he does-and how he does
it-from the moment he enters his bedroom
until he finds himself snugly tucked away
between the sheets. N ow by watching a man
when he is acting mechanically it is, I
believe, possible to arrive at a very fair esti-
-
- _-.&-~
N ATION AL CI-IARACTER ISTICS. I 27
mate of his real character; because you then

see him au natunl, free from the veneer and
artificiality of his guarded moments. And if
.this be true of individuaIs, why not of
nations? Now it is well understood that
nations differ materially one from another in
their character: the English from the French,
the French from the German, and so on;
and if, therefore, I carl say of the nation the
sarne that I say of the individual: that the
character shows itself in the bedroom, then
Englishmen do go to bed differently to other
. people. Q.E.D. And I am not sure that
by close observation this difference could
not be detected even in the manner in which
the candle is extinguished. I should at any
rate expect the I talian to perform this feat
grac efully , the Frenchman theatrically, the
Englishman stolidly and with becoming
gravity, and the Irishman impulsively."
"Bravo, Mr. X.! said one, <, but what
J)
about the Scotchman ? "

" Oh, he would go to bed in the dark."
128 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEmA.
" Why?"
"To save the expense of the candle."
This sally broke up the meeting, and we
dispersed, laughing as we went to our several
rooms. Our friends inside, when told of the
espionage to which they had been subjected,
said things not complimentary about the
Madeirense, forgetting, or ignoring, the fact
that the blame lay primarily on their own
shoulders. ln this, though, they did but
follow the usual practice of making any
person rather than oneself the guilty party,
so I suppose we must deal leniently with
them.
V.,r e were a wakened in the nigh t by a great
banging at our door, and, on inquiring the
cause, found to our sorrow that our worthy
generalíssimo had met with an accident and
required the lint. He had been down into
the village to engage fresh hammock-men,
and was coming back when, unfortunately,
he missed his way, and feU over the ravine
side. Fortunately, at the spot where he went
ON EARLY RISING. 129
over there are numerous Iedges, and these

prevented him from falling very far, but he
was badIy shaken and bruised. We doctored
him as well as we couId, but he had a very
bad night and was not fit for very much when
we started in the morning. Vei-y shortIy
after this, so it seemed, there was anotl;ler
disturbance at the doar; this time it was to
inform us that it was time to get up. F our
a.m., pitch dark, and you very tired, 'and yet
lo have to get up and dress! "Vhat a cheer-
fuI prospect! I am not fond of earIy rising.
I never was. And I hate with a heaIthy,
hearty, undying hatred, the individual who
delights in being " up with the lark." 'Tisn't
so much his getting up early that I object to
as the way he acts when he is up. He al-
ways bangs the things about in his bedroom
whilst he is dressing, goes clattering down
the stairs, whistling as hard as he knows
how, talks at the top of his voice, slams aIl
the doors after him, and altogether acts as
if he desired the whole neighbourhood to
K
know that he was out of bed. When you

appear, perhaps feeling perfectly wretched,
the result of a bad night's rest, he slaps you
on the shoulders, rubs his hands, stumps up
and down the room, and says: tc Ah, my
boy, you look seedy. Headache, aye!
H um-stopped too long in bed. N othing
like being up ear1y-never get headaches
then. Look at me, I never get headaches."
(Here you say something under your breath
about his having no head that any self-
respecting headache would visit.) Then he
teUs you how long he has been up- as if you
were not too well aware of the time he com-
menced his morning chirrup-and that he is
never in bed after such and such a time;
and proceeds to hold forth on the beauties of
nature that are seen only in the early mom-
ing; how beautiful and fresh the air feels,
how the garden looks, etc., etc. Whilst he
is haranguing, mental pictures Bit across
your mind of long, dreary-looking streets
given over to the housemaids, some smart,
THE BEAUTIES 01<' THE EARLY MORN. 131
some decidedly the reverse, who are beating

mats on the sidewalks, or on their knees,
scrubbing the front steps j hoarse-tongued
milkmen " hoo, hoo "-ing as they deliver the
morning milk, dirty-Iooking scavengers clear-
ing the dirt or dust from the road, and the
house refuse piled in unhandsome, evil-smell-
ing pails; parks deserted, save by the
gardeners and the homeless refugees who are
scattered here and there on the seats j
gardens in which the only things that seem
to grow are old boots, tin pots, half bricks,
and dead cats j and you shudder as yOli
think of the chill morning air, the heavy dew,
and the white clammy mist that often en-
velops everything as with a shroud. You
\Vonder whether any man who honestly
believes what he says can be perfectly sane
who calls these things I, the beauties of
nature,"-and they are the only things you
ever saw when either duty or foolhardiness
compelled yOli to be about early,-seems to
revel in them, and who pities you with an
K 2
exceeding great pity for that you prefer lO

them the soft seductions of your cosy, snow-
white sheeted, comfortable bed.
Our principal reason for getting up so early
on this particular morning was to see the
sun rise; but in this we were disappointed;
like Mark Twain we did not see the sun rise,
and that for the sarne reason-we were not
out soon enough. Before we were halfway
to the spot from whence we were to witness
the spectacle, 'c Old Sol" showed his rubicund
face above the mountains and, trying hard to
suppress a grin at our discornfiture-the
villain-bade us a very good morning. He
said he was sorry to have had to disappoint
the gentlernen, especially as it was very
seldom he was honoured with their presence
at so early an hour, but, being business men,
he was confident they would excuse his ap-
parent haste, when he said he was so terribly
busy that, much as he would have liked to
have dane so, he found it quite impossible to
wait for their coming before arising. Of
TUE SUNRISE WE DIDN'T SEE. 133
course we made out it didn't matter in the

least. We said we had not come out ex-
pressly to see him. We were only out for a
quiet stroll and thought we would give him a
cal! on the way. That is what we should
have said if he had spoken to uso What
really did happen was this: we used very
strong language over the matter; and every
man felt it his duty to charge some other
man with being the cc confounded idiot" that
had " fooled away the time " and thus ruined
the whole thing. We returned to the inn
quite crestfallen and, as might be expected,
were very snappy " to each other for some
Cc
time after. Wel!, it was annoying to miss

the sight after making such a tremendous
effort. Don't you think so yourself, now?
Soon after six o'clock we commenced our
last day's ride, and a long hard day's ride it
\Vas. Leaving the hammocks and three
horsemen as an escort to follow on, the re·
mainder of the party-which included, of
course, those who were so very anxious to
be back-pushed ahead, in 'Order if possible

to reach Funchal early in the afternoon. For
the first hour the road lay along a beautiful
country lane, bordered on each side by yam
patches, maize plots, small plantations of
sugar cane, orchards, and the .1ike. Here
and there we carne upon little cottages
standing in the midst of gardens which were
one mass of blossom. Out of these carne
running to the side of the road the children
of the household, who saluted us as we passed,
and, more often than not, begged for an éJms.
Everyone of these houses possessed a four-
footed guardian in the shape of a yelping,
growling) howling cur, which for ugliness and
general disreputable appearance would beat
anything of its kind in creation, the dingo or
the coyote not excepted.
Beyond the lane the road ascends rapidly,
and we were soon struggling in the narrow
boulder path which marks the entrance to
the Encumeada Passo Many times during
the ascent we stopped the horses to admire
~r ~~; ~;~)
VJ;"-;-~
ON THE ROAD TO FUNCHAL. 135
the grand and wonderful scenery which lies on

every hand. The eye never seemed to tire
of roving over the delightful prospect of hill
and dale, forest and field lying above, below,
and around. At each tum of the road we
\ooked back to see that the second portion of
our party had met with no mishap, but for some
time we did not catch even a glimpse of it;
our friends always happened to be in some
part of the path which was invisible from our
posltIon. At length, however, when we had
clim bed so high that over the tops of the hills
we could see the sea shore beyond São Vin-
cente, and prominent upon its edge the chapeI
of St. John, we saw them wendiog their tor-
tuous way along the serpentine road at a
point far below uso "We soon attracted their
attention, and through the glasses made out
from the reply to our signal that all was going
well with them.
Reaching the pass over a narrow neck of
rock which joins [WO of the mountains, we
had now gained a height of 3500 ft., and
were able to see the sea both on the north

and south of the island, and to look down
into the Ribeira Brava. Just beyond the
pass is located one of the shelter huts, and
here we stopped for some liquid refreshment.
Outside the hut was an improvised litter of
boughs on which was lying, bound and moan-
ing, a little cow which had been unfortunate
enough to break one of its legs; and it perhaps
wilI scarcely be credited, but it is nevertheless
true, that the bearers of this litter had brought
the poor animal down from higher up the
mountain, and were taking it home to the sea
shore on the south side in order that it might
be slaughtered! Why they could not have
put the poor thing out of its misery at once,
and then have carried its carcass home, instead
of carrying it a whole dày's rough, jolting
journey in its pain, is a mystery that I leave
to someone else better informed to explain.
Whilst the burriqueros were inside the hut
drinking, some of our friends, impatient at
the delay, mounted their horses and rode off
,
1
"MORE HASTE, LESS SPEED." 137
unattended, but, the road forking at this point,

with the perversity of human nature, they
took the wrong track, and we who had re-
mained behind had the pleasure of laughing
at their rueful faces, and quoting for their
edification the old proverb, Cc More haste, less
speed," as they carne grurnbling back after a
quarter of an hour's useless ride.
About an hour after leaving the hut, and
far below it, we crossed the bridge over the
Ribeiro do Poço, a beautifully-wooded glen,
the trees of which cast a pleasant shade and
formed for us a cool shelter from the heat of
the sun. The path at this point becomes
very narrow, and winds round and round the
ravine side, over gulleys and torrent beds,
past the scenes of landslips, recent and
remote, and over large and rough boulders
which tax the powers of the horses to the
utrnost.
After passing the head of the ravine, and
before rounding the bend and plunging
amongst the mas ses of rocks which would
give us no chance of seeing them, we halted

to await the coming into sight of the ham-
mocks, etc., away across the other side of
the ravine-about a mile as the crow Aies,
The Track near Rocha Alta.
but about four round the road. We waited

for some time, but no hammocks put in an
appearance, and we were beginning to debate
what we should do, when we saw them one
Al\IUSEMENTS BV TIIE WAY. 139
after another come sailing round the comer,

the bearers making fair speed with their half
dog-trot, half-shuffle. As soon as the whole
of the little party was safely round we sent
up a cheer that made the hills resound,
startled the birds, and so frightened the goats,
that one committed suicide in sheer terror.
Presently, borne across on the wind, we heard
a faint response to our greeting, and we saw
the dog which had up to this time remained
with them break away and start off at a great
pace to overtake us; but "a stern chase is
a long chase," and we had travelled quite
two miles from our halting-place before it
overtook uso
Our burriqueros were in great form and
enlivened the way considerably by their
vagaries. Manuel gave us life-like imita-
tions of the various kinds of chanticleer with
which he was acquainted-and his know-
ledge embraced everything from a bantam
to a full-grown brahma j José, not to be out-
done, now and again indulged in an earsplit-
'"
ting war-whoop,almost terrible enough towake

the dead-I shouldn't think he would die of
consumption; Machado the Second, so-called I
by us to distinguish him from his father, the
Machado, our head burriquero, developed an
extraordinary talent for the most dare-devil
performances; here plunging down the
ravine after a few leaves, there climbing up
the rock face for a plant at the risk of his
neck, now racing ahead to pick us a handful
II of whortleberries, and now lagging behind to
dislodge a rock that we might have the
, pleasure of hearing it go crashing and tearing
, down into the abyss, bearing a small ava-
lanche in its train j the Machado sang to us,
I
but from such singing-" Good Lord, deliver
us!"
One of the party wanted to know what the
blazes he was howling like that for? He
iii said he wasn't howling; he was singing a
song. "Singing a song! the deuce you are.
Oh, I beg your pardon-I thought you were
wailing the death of one of your friends.
I
lHE MACHADO SINGS. 14 1
Would it cost much to buy Up your rights in

that song? " Well, yes, he wouldn't care to
part with the copyright, but as the gentleman
was so pleased with it he would teach it him,
and allow him to sing it in public without fee
or licence. Our friend thanked him for his
kind offer, but asked to be allowed to decline
it, as he was not gifted enough to be able to
sing it as it ought to be sung; but he said he
had a dog at home that he thought with a
little practice would be able to howl it nicely.
Don Emanuel also took a hand in the fun,
but knowing where his forte lay he did not
start anything new: he stuck to his old trade
and begged for tobacco and drink-money all
day with an energy and a persistence that
far transcended ali his previous efforts.
At Rocha Alta the path runs ai ong a
narrow shelf cut in the flank of Pico Grande,
and here the guides hurried us along to
escape the stones which often come tumbling
down from the heights above. Just beyond
the path opens out upon a narrow saddle of
142 HOLIDA Y W ANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
rock dividing the Grand Curral from the

Serra d' Agua. This saddle, called the
Bocca dos Corregos, is 4420 ft. above sea
leveI, and once on it there breaks upon the
vision the grandest view of any that the
island possesses. Sheer beIow on the Ieft
hand, at a depth of 2000 ft., is the wondrous
and vast rocky ravine of the Grand Curral,
the church of Notra Senora do Livramento-
" our Lady of Deliverance "-standing beside
the torrent bed at the bottom, a mere white
speck j on the right, the bottom through the
trees which line its sides scarceIy visibIe, to
an almost equal depth sinks the Serra
d'Agua (i.e. water saw mill), on the other
side of which are the mountains which cul-
minate in the Paul, and a little more to the
right the rocky sides of Pico Grande. Away
to the west is Pico de Fora, and turning
round so as to bring Pico Grande on the Ieft,
we can see the upper basin ôf the Curral
bounded by the towering peaks of Canario,
Pico Ruivo, and The Torres. The view fram
THE GRAND CURRAL.
•
TUE GRAND CURRAL. 143
that pOSltlOn is grand beyond description.

Let it therefore suffice to say that from that
position one looks down upon two mighty
monuments of Nature' s handi work : on the
one hand a paradise of sylvan beauty, and on
the other a confused piling of rock upon rock
that seems to record the fearful struggles of
a second Titanomachia.
Continuing along the ridge separating the
two valleys, we entered upon a narrow,
dangerous path which, winding round the
spur of a jagged peak, ran now along the
edge of one precipice and now the other. At
about the worst part, one of the horses
stumbled, and I shall not soon forget the
look of horror which t1ash ed into its rider's
face. He alighted at once, and, following
his example, all of us, save one who, as he
afterwards confessed, continued riding out
of bravado , did the sarne, allowing the
burriqueros to lead the horses until we carne
to a safer part of the road .
Arrived at the Jardim da Serra, a beauti-
• 'Y"""' -'
144 HOLIDAY WANDERING S lN MADEIRA.
fully wooded, weU cultivated estate originally

laid out and planted by a former British
Consul, we stopped for half an hour under
the trees to eat the slight lunch which, as we
had left the 1uncheon basket and its bearer
with the hammocks, each man carried in his
pocket. As we lay there under the trees
smoking a well-earned pipe, we feH to com-
paring notes of our day's ride, and it was the
verdict of ali that the burriqueros were quite
justified in adopting the attitude they did
when asked to traveI from Boa Ventura
through São Vincente to Funchal in one
day. Had it been attempted, night must
have overtaken us in the worst part of our
journey, and the only thing then would have
been to lie down in the cold, damp night
mist on the bare rock and anxiously await
the break of day.
From the Jardim down into Funchal we
travelled over better roads and through one
oí the best cultivated and most flourishing
parts of the island j but, coming as we did
..
THE GRAND CURRAL-PROFILE MOUNTAIN .

THE END OF
from the cool air of the mountains, the heat,

which was very great at this lower leveI,
somewhat distressed us, and we did not
enjoy this last part of our ride so much.
We reached Funchal about half-past two in
the afternoon, pleased, yet sorry, that we
had finished our tour, thankful that it had
been accomplished without serious accident,
charmed with wha~ 'we had seen, proud of
our experiences; -but feeling very tired and
worn out, the effects of the hard work, rough
fare, and, with one exception, sleepless
nights. I t was quite three hours later before
the hammocks reached the hotel. The
poor bearers were in a very exhausted con-
dition, but, notwithstanding their fatigue and
the lateness of the hour, after partaking of
some food, and indulging in a short rest,
extended on the ground under the trees in
the garden, they started to walk back to
São Vincente l-I won der what an English
porter would think of that for a day's work?
After dinner we ali congregated on the
L
balcony, and, over a bottle of wine, fought

our battles o'er again, but it may be taken
for granted we did not sit up very late: nine
o'clock saw us all in bed and sleeping the
sleep of the justo
CHAPTER X.
Morning reflections and good resolutions-Round lhe town-
The musicians-A moonlight ramble-The troubadollr
-The frog story-Shopping-The" Bonanoe "-Mr. J.
and his pipe-An honest man-Good-bye !-Homeward
bound-The Scot-Ollr welcome home.
lT is wonderful what a good night's rest

will do towards re-invigorating a tired-out
frame. A man, exhausted by a hard day's
toil, either of head or hand, goes to bed
feeling that life is scarcely worth the living,
but a deep, peaceful sleep for nine or ten
hours chases away all his overnight morbid
feelings and fancies, and he awakens feeling
a new creature, ready again to pIay his part
in life's tragedy. Mark the pain-racked
sufferer, turning and tossing on the couch
that gives to him no reIief for his aching
head and weary Iimbs, how he longs for
L 2
death to come and release him from his

sufferings; but see him after he has been
visited by Cc nature's sweet restorer, balmy
sleep." He feeIs, he tel1s you with a faint
smile, much better, his pains are no Ionger
greater than he can bear; he has Iost that
intense desire for death, he takes an interest
in the things going on around him, and
speaks of what he intends to do when he is
ce about " again.
These were my reflections as I lay idling

in bed the morning following our return to
Funchal, and the cause was not far to seek.
When I went to bed I was, to use a vulgarism,
"quite done up," and I proposed, seconded,
and carried unanimously a whole sackful of
resolutions, the spirit of which was that I
would be hanged before I would do any-
thing but sIeep the whole of the next day,
but I awoke feeling so refreshed that I
realized it would be a moral impossibility to
carry out the programme I had arranged for
myself. Scarcely, then, was breakfast over
- =+.-. -
M USlC lN THE GARDEN. l49
before three or four congenial spirits, includ-

ing myself, started away to explore those
parts of the town and its immediate vicinage
which were as yet terra z·ncogttz"ta. Our
wanderings, with an interval for luncheon,
occupied near1y all the hours between break-
fast and dinner. We had a very pleasant
day, and we added considerably to our
knowledge of things Madeirense.
After dinner a select band of musicians
presented themselves at the hotel, and, taking
up a favourable position under the balcony,
favoured us with selections from the musical
works known to them. There were two
machétes, stringed instruments very like
guitars, but much smaller, one guitar, one
violin, and one flute. The music produced
by this combination was very sweet, and its
beauty was heightened by the charming sur-
roundings . A clear, caIm, moonlight night,
a genial air burdened with the scents of many
flowers; no noises save the drowsy hum of
insects; a garden in which a Romeo might
IS0 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
have wooed his ] uliet, decked and arrayed in

a wondrous vesture of silver light and sable
shade j the musicians but dimly outlined as
they sat under the shadows of the trees; all
this combined to give to the music an almost
supernatural beauty.
Late in the evening two of us went for a
walk down into the town, but the streets
were deserted, and, save for the noise pro-
ceeding frolI! one or two wineshops and the
occasional footfall of a wayfarer, as quiet as
the grave. On the beach, however, the scene
was more animated. Groups of men and
women were sitting or standing about, laugh-
ing and chatting, boats were coming and
going; now and again a small party of roy-
stering, jolly sailors issued from the wine-
shops adjoining the beach, or debouched from
the roads leading into the town, and, singing
as they went, made their way to the boats
in waiting to take them to their ships. From
off the sea carne the sounds of revelry as the
men made merry on the Portuguese man-o'-
THE BEACI-l AT NIGI-lT. ISI
war at anchor outside; and in keeping with

the sounds there was heard the dull murmur
of the surf as it broke upon the shore.
We sat for some time listening to a
troubadour who, enthroned on a heap of
stones and accompanying himself on his
machéte, to a delighted audience was pour-
ing out his soul in song. N ow it was a
pathetic love ditty, now a merry drinking lay,
and now a stirring marching song in the
chorus of which his auditors joined heartily.
On and on he played, never tiring, never
ceasing, blind to all that was going on around
him, deaf to all sounds save those of his own
muslc.
It was almost midnight when we returned
to the hotel, and all our friends were in bed
and the place was in darkness, but even
then we lingered about the garden, unwilling
to go indoors whilst it was so beautiful out-
side.
The following morning, as I was dressing,
I overheard the following conversation which
took place between two of the visitors outside

my windows : -
,I Hallo, Jack, what's the matter? Vou
. don't look well ! "
" Hang it, no; I don't feel well. I had no
sleep last night, the confounded frogs made
such a hubbub. There was a party of them
near my window that drove me nearly wild.
I got up at last and went out armed with a
stick intending to murder the whole lot if
I could lay my hands on them. Stealing on
tiptoe to the spot from whence the noise
proceeded, I got a good view of them. There
they were, the wretches, nine of them, squat-
ting in a circle on a flat stone exposed t0
the full light of the moon, making night
hideous with their din. A big chap that
seemed to be the leader was seated in the
middle of the circle, and his voice could be
heard above all the others. They were
practising an oratorio, I believe. First there
was a solo by the big fellow, who went at
it hammer and tongs. Up and down the
THE FROG STORY. 153
scale, in and out the scale, now waxing now

waning, and finally ending up with a number
of shakes that brought down the house,
Then there was a duet performed in the
most approved style by the chief soprano
and the chief tenor. After that a chorus by
the whole choir, and didn't they lay into it;
they crammed about as much discord into
that one chorus as any of our suburban
amateur choraI associations could in three,
and that is saying a great deal. Next there
was a trio with chorus in which the big
chief was to the fore again. The airs he
gave himself in this piece were too much for
my gravity, and J burst out laughing, with
the resuIt that there were nine distinct
splashes in the water and the stone was
vacant. I searched a long time for those
frogs, poking my stick now into this place
and now into that, but not a frog did I dis-
cover; they simply vanished."
cc H'm," said his friend, laughing, te the
Romans were saved by the cackle of a
_ J. - __
---=- - - - - - - - -
~
--- -
----- -
154 HOLlDAY WANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
goose; the frogs were saved by the bray of

a donkey."
Our stay on the island was now drawing to
a dose, and we therefore spent the morning
in the town buying presents for the friends
at home and mementoes of our holiday for
ourselves. I think we visited almost every
store in the place, and bought something at
nearly all of them. There was a continuous
stream of porters arriving and leaving the
hotel for hours after our return from ,r shop-
ping." We thought of cl)artering a ship to
bring the things home. Specimens of the
basket work for which the islanders are
famous formed the bulk of our purchases,
but a good deal of money was spent in
various kinds of inlaid wood .. work, walking-
sticks, machétes, and other things, incIuding
some carapuças, peculiar little doth caps the
top of which ends in a conical spike which
stands up from twelve to eighteen inches above
the head, a head-dress at one time much worn
by the peasantry, but now seI dom seen, its
SHOPPING. 155
place having been taken by a kind of small

Tam o' Shanter. We also paid a visit to
the fruit market and invested in a quantity
of fruit. Lovely peaches we bought at two
anà four a penny, passion fruit one penny
each, magnificent pine apples, the best in the
market, 2S. and 2S. 6d. each, and bananas,
. bunches weighing about sixty pounds each, for
2S. a bunch. ln connection with the bananas
1 must repeat a superstition about this fruit
that appears in all the books on Madeira 1
have seen, and which is told by every person
on the island with whom you speak. The
first mention that is made of it, as far as
I can find, is in a collection of voyages
printed in 1745, and runs thus : -
II The Bonanoe is, with them, in singular
esteem and even Veneration ; being reckoned,

for its deliciousness, the forbidden Fruit.
To confirm this Surmise, they alledge the
Extent of its Leaves, judging them of a
Size, fit to make Aprons for Adam and Eve.
lt is almost a crime inexpiable to cut this
-.
---
_r-~- --.~ I
l 56 H OL IDA Y \/VANDERlN GS lN MADEIRA.
Fruit with a knife, because after Dissection,

it gives a faint Similitude of the Crucifixion.
And this, they say, is to wound Christ's
Sacred Image."
I t is the pet story. Some go so far as to
teU you-the visitors these are-that on one
occasion-these things always take place on
one occasion-their hands were held by an
onlooker when about to commit this sacrilege
- I have my own opinion about those people.
The first time I heard the story I thought it
was good and worth remembering; the
second time it rather palled; but when it
was dinned into my ears for the fiftieth time,
I said something-the next man that tells
me the story had better make arrangements
for his funeral.
Whilst we were Iounging about the baIcony
after luncheon on this day, we were startled
by a shout and a cry of: "Look here, you
fellows, what do you think of this ? "
Looking as directed, we saw our respected
Ieader below, holding aIoft a pipe he had Iost
A DEMAND FOR DIOGENES. 157
when he got his tumble at São Vincente, and

capering about like a mail possessed.
" Hallo! what's up?" saicl we. " What
are you executing that war-dance for? Are
you training for a mal e ballet-dancer or a
showman's Zulu, which? Splendid! Hurrah!
Who would have thought he was such a
dancer ?"
(( Dry up those silly remarks," said he,
calming himself. c. I meant you to look at
what I hold in my hand, not to criticize my
saltatory performances. Gentlemen, why
did not Diogenes live in this latter half of
the nineteenth century? I could then have
presented to him an honest man, anel there
he stands," pointing to one of the São
Vincente hammock-men who stood near him.
(( That man," said he, c, has walked the whole
way from São Vincente, a journey the length
of which you know, and the difficulties of
which you can appreciate, to restore to me
this pipe; and I believe in so doing he has
been actuated purely by the desire to do that
.. - ~.- -- ~ -
which he considered right, unalloyed with

any hope of gain j for he has absolutely
refused to take more than half-a-crown for
his trouble. He says he heard me speak of
my 10ss to one of the bearers, and on his
return home he searr.hed the spot where I
fell, and found the pipe lying by some bushes.
He apologizes for not bringing it yesterday,
saying that he was tired and wanted a resto
He is now going to rest for a short time, and
then is going to set out on the return journey.
After this, let no one boast in my hearing
that the English people possess the mono-
poly oí those qualities that make a man a
nzan! "
ln the midst of the talk which the re-
covery of the pipe occasioned, the cry went
round that the ship in which we were to
make the return journey was steaming into
the bay, and we realized that the last few
hours of our stay on this beautiful island had
arrived.
Three hours later and the last good-byes
-
HOMEWARD BOUND. 159
had been said, and we were slowly steaming

away from the paradise of sunny skies and
lovely scenery. and towards the fog-bound
shores of rainy England; away from the
scene of our pleasrtnt holiday wanderings,
and towards the dull monotony of our official
Jife. Regretfully we gazed at the receding
land until not a vestige of it remained above
the horizon, and then sought our cabins too
dispirited and miserable to take pleasure in
aught sav~ a communion with our own
thoughts.
A few hours out from Funchal we got into
the "Trades," and the ship began to pitch,
with the result that some of the friends be-
carne unwell, and for the next two days life
for them was almost a blank. I tried to
amuse them by relating stories of men I . had
met. who had been ill for six weeks at a time
with mal de mer, but somehow they did not
see the humour of the thing, and when I
sang to them a little ditty from "Pinafore"
which begins: 'c \Vhen the stormy winds do
160 H OLIDA Y W ANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
blow," I was not applauded. The third day,

however, saw them about again, able to take
an interest in all that was to be seen and
heard, and to take part in the little musical
and other entertainments which were going on.
Before leaving Madeira we heard that
somewhere near home we should pass the
Scot, the new steamship about which so
much had been published in the papers, on
her first trip to the Cape. We knew from
what we had read that this ship had been
built for the express purpose of breaking the
record for fast steaming between England
and South Africa, and we were, therefore,
naturally very curious to see what sort of a
vessel she was. The officers af our ship were
very enthusiastic about her, predicting that
she would lower the record by days, and,
arguments ensuing, feeling ran rather high.
Bets were freely made as to the time she
would take to complete the voyage, and,
more particularly, as to the hour at which we
should meet.
AN OCEAN GREYIIOUND. 161
By Saturday night some of our more mer-

curial passengers were in quite a little fever
of excitement about her, and one individual
who had staked somewhat heavily, remained
on deck alI night. I t gave one quite a lively
idea of how intensely exciting it must be to
be on one of two rival ships racing between
England and America, when perhaps they
keep within sight of each other for days.
I was soundly sleeping the Sunday morn-
ing, when about half-past five I was awakened
by a rousing cheer, and, hurrying on deck, I
was just in time to see the expected ship go
steaming grandly by. It was a pretty sight
to see her go rapidly past, seemingly within
stone's throw, the water breaking away in
white foam from under her bows, and her
deck crowded with passengers waving hats
and handkerchiefs, and cheering lustily. The
expectations entertained with regard to the
steaming power of this ship have been realized,
she having lowered the net steaming record
between England and the Cape considerably.
1\1
Some hours after this we sighted the

English coast, and were soon making for
Southampton; but now the sky, which
throughout our holiday had been bright and
clear, became overcast, the thunder rolled, the
lightning flashed, rain descended in torrents,
and we landed in the midst of a heavy
thunderstorm-a truly Englísh welcome to
returning travellers. This is no flight of the
imagination, but a record of the actual facto
Our deligptít1l ; holida y was . over; and
within an_hã:4( or so the little party that had
travelled so far"·together, that had seen and
done so much together, that for some weeks
had lived and laughed together, was scattered
to the four winds of heaven, never, perhaps,
to again re-unite; but though we may never
alI meet again, I am sure the thoughts of each
will often revert with a glow of kindliness to
the other members of the band, and the wish
will spring into the mind, as it does in mine,
that every one of the party may live a long
and happy life.
APPENDIX A.
A ISHORT ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF

MADEIRA.
THE discovery of Madeira was due to such

romantic circumstances, and was attended by
such disastrous results to the unfortunate beings
who first set foot on its shores, that the
history of it as it stands recorded in the old
books reads more like the creation of some highly
imaginative brain than a bare record of actual
events. A better example of the truth of the old
adage that " truth is stranger than fiction " could
scarcely be adduced.
During the reign of Edward III. of England
and Don John L of Portugal there lived a young
Englishman, whose name is variously given as
Robert Machim and Lionel Machim, who had
the misfortune to fall in love with a young lady,
D'Arfet, D'Orset, or D'Arcy by name, far above
him in rank and fortune. The love he entertained
M 2
164 HOLIDAY WANDER1NGS lN MADEIRA.
for her he soon found was reciprocated, and

strenuous efforts were then made by him to gain
the consent of her parents to their marriage; but
all to no purpose, as they desired to see her mated
to a man they themselves had chosen on account
of his wealth. And finding that though they
would not countenance his attentions, the young
fellow would by no means relinquish the love he
had won, and knowing how greatly their daughter
detested the individual who had been selected by
them as her future husband, the parents, to
frustrate any attempts that might be made to
bear ber off in spite of them, obtained from the
king an order for Machim's imprisonment until
the marriage they desired had taken place.
Terrified at this proceeding, and fearing if she
held out her lover would suffer a lifelong imprison-
ment, the poor girl at last gave a tearful assent,
and tbe marriage was celebrated with all pomp
and ceremony, her husband bearing her off in
triumph to one of his seats situated near
Bristol.
Though the sacrifice had been made in his
behalf, Machim was not released until some time
after the marriage had taken place, and then only
on the intercession of his friends, who pleaded
-
IMPRISONED FOR LOVE, & THE SEQUEL. 165
that no danger could possibly result from his

being set at liberty now that the young lady had
been married and taken away. But there they
were sadly mistaken; for he had no sooner
regained his Iiberty than he conceived the design
of abducting her from her husband and carrying
her away into France. He soon found out where
she was confined, for confinement it practically
was, and thither he repaired with a few friends
, \Vho had sworn to assist him. Fortune seems to
have favoured him, for it was not long before one
of his friends obtained a situation as groom in the
husband's household, and by his help the plans
for her deliverr were soon matured. As soon as
everything was in readiness, Machim and his
friends seized a small vessel and repaired to the
rendezvous which had been appointed, and there
taking on board the precious burden, made alI
sail for France. Unfortunately for them, a heavy
gale sprang up, and, none of them possessing any
knowledge of the art of navigation, the little craft
was driven out into thé ocean, and for fourteen
days (some accounts say thirty) was tossed,
battered, and driven hither and thither at the
-
mercy of the waves. \
Worn out by toil and watching, provisions all
gone, nothing seemed left for them but to await

with what calmness they could the advcnt of
death, when suddenly land was seen not far
away. Rousing- what little energy they had left,
they SOOI1 succeeded in gaining the shore, and,
after returning thanks for their marvellous deliver-
ance and partaking of the fruits and wild honey
with which thc place abounded, there gave them-
selves up to that rest and repose of which they
stood so sadly in need.
Three days of blissful enjoyment then follo\Ved ;
but on thc fourth, during a violent gale, the vessel,
insecurely anchored, broke from its moorings and
drifted out to sea. This sad catastrophe so preyed
upon the mind of the lady, who seemed to see
in its disappearance a foreboding of further woes,
that in a very few days she died. Machim, utter1y
inconsolable for her loss, and reviling himself as
being the cause of her death, wandered aimlessly
about for a short time, and then he too died, and,
at his own request, was buried in the sarne grave
with her whom he had loved so wel!. Over this
double grave the companions erected a cedar
cross, and attached to it an inscription written by
Machim, in which he recounted his adventures and
requested that if any Christians should ever settle
SOLD INTO SLAVERY.
on the island they would erect a chapel on the

spot where they both lay buried.
Terrified at the disasters which had befallen
them, the companions hastened to escape from the
island. Accounts differ as to the manner in which
they left its shores, some saying that they went
away in the ship's boat which had been left behind,
and others that they made for themselves a canoe,
but alI agre e in stating that some little time after
leaving the island they were wrecked on the coast
of Barbary, where they were taken prisoners and
became slaves amongst the Moors; and that there
they had the melancholy satisfaction of beholding,
as fellow slaves, those of their friends who were
on the vessel when it was blown away from the
island.
On the 18th of March, 1416, Don Sancho,
youngest 50n of Don Ferdinand, King of Arragon,
died and left by wil! a large sum of money to be
expeuded in the redemption of poor Christian
sI aves held in bondage by the Moors. Amongst
those whose liberty was purchased by this money
was a Spaniard named Juan de Morales, who had
been associated for some time during his captivity
with the unfortunate Englishmen, and who had
heard fmm their lips the story of their \Voes, and of
the beautiful island on which they had left the bones

of their leader and his love. As soon as he found
himself at liberty, Morales determined to return to
Spain, and to give the information he possessed
to his king; but on the way home, Spain and Por-
tugal being then at variance, he had the misfortune
to be taken prisoner by the Portuguese navigator,
João Gonzalves Zarco, who was cruising in the
vicinity of Tarifa. Wishing to ingratiate himself
with his captor, he repeated to him the story he
had heard from the Englishmen, with the resul t
that Zarco, recognizing the importance of what
Morales had told him, set sail at once for Lisbon.
As soon as he arrived he obtained an audience of
his patron, the Infante Prince Henry (grandson of
Edward II!.), and acquainted him with what he
had heard. The prince repeated the news to
his father the king. \Vho despatched Zarco to re-
discover the island.
On the 1st of June, 1419, Zarco set sail from
Algarve, directing his course to Puerto Santo, an
island discovered by him about three years earlier,
and in the interval partly colonized. Arrived at
Puerto Santo, he was informed by the inhabitants
that (I quote from a translation made from the
Portuguese and printed in 1756) "towards the
ANCIENT SUPERSTITION. 169
north-east there appeared a perpetuaI obseurity,

which extended itself from the sea to the sky,
without ever altering in its shape or its situation.
And beeause in tÍlat infaney of navigation they
wanted the Astrolabe and other instruments sinee
invented, it was judged impossibTe to return should
they pass the blaek cloud, and that they who ven-
tured through it must inevitably perish. Some
ealled it an unfathomable abyss, others said it was
the mouth of hell, and were supported in the asser-
tion by the priests, who laboured to prove it both
by argument and authority. The historians, not
less superstitious, maintained that it was the
island antiently ealled Cipango, which God had
miraculously hidden in a cloud, to proteet the
Spanish and Portuguese bishops, who had fled
thither from the persecutions of Moors and Sara-
cens; that it was directly contrary to thc divine
will to endeavour a farther discovery, for if he had
pleased to have it take place, he would have mani-
fested his approbation by sueh miracles as usually
precede his permission of great events j and that,
above ali, divers antient prophecies, under severe
penalties, forbad the enquiry into this sacred
mystery."
This news had a very demoralizing effect on
I 70 H OLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
Zarco's crew. They were for abandoning the en-

terprise altogether, fulIy believing all that they had
heard of the fearful punishments which awaited
them should they continue their voyage. Finding
that the longer he remained at Puerto Santo the
more terrified his crew became, Zarco called a
council at which Morales, who was of the party,
made a very spirited speech, calling upon them to
put away their idle fears and to fulfil the duty with
which their king had intrusted them. At first he
was little heeded, the priests and others telling the
crew that as a foreigner and an enemy he was but
endeavouring to compass their death; but to this
charge he replied that as he was going with them
he must of necessity be involved in the general
destruction; and that as he clung to life as tena-
ciously as any of them, as his preferring to live
out a terrible period of slavery rather than put an
end to himseIf showed, they need have no fears on
that head. The result of his appeaI was, finally,
that they decided to go on, and on the 6th ar 7th
of August, [4 [9, they set sail, reaching the eastern
end of the new Iand on the 10th of the sarne
month.
Sailing along close i n shore, Zarco soon dis-
covered the open beach described by the English-
FOUNDlNG OF THE CAPITAL. 171
men, and there he landed and took possession of

the island in the name of the King of Portugal.
The grave of Machim and his beloved, with the
cross and inscription set above it, was soon found,
and there the Commander caused mass to be said,
and, in honour of the poor unfortunate, named the
place Machio. The navigators found the island to
be uninhabited and free from wild animais, but
thousands of birds flocked about them and were so
tame, being perfectly ignorant of man and his
destructive ways, that they made no attempt to fly
away, but carne and perched on their heads and
shoulders and sang to them their sweetest songs.
The ground was found to be ful! of the most
odoriferous herbs, and covered with a luxuriant
tropical vegetation, and so densely wooded that,
from that circumstance, Zarco named it the Island
of Madeira, 01' the Island 0/ Wood. Continuing
his voyage westward, he discovered an eligible site
for the capital, which being covered with fennel,
01' as it is in Portuguese, fzenclto, they named
it Funchal, a name it has ever since borne. From
here Zarco wrote to Prince Henry, informing him
of the discovery, and requesting permission to set
fire to the woods in order to clear the ground for
cultivation, a request which was granted. It is said
the fire was not extinguished for several years, and

when at last it was stamped out the whole island
was reduced to a state of barrenness, but the soil
was by the ashes of the trees 50 greatly enriched
that it became wonderfully prolific. •
For his services Zarco was ennobled and made
Governor of the island ; and to give a greater im-
portance to the newly-acquired possession, the
king made considerable grants of land to three
young noblemen of his court, and sent them out
to espouse the three daughters of Zarco, and from
these have desccnded the principal {amilies in the
island.
At the death of Don John, his son and succeSSOT,
Don Duart, considering the interest his brother
Henry had taken in the exploration and coloniza-
tion of the island and the money he had spent for
this purpose, made him a grant of the issues and
profits of it during life, executing a treaty to that
effect at Cintra on the 25th of September, 1433;
and gave, in perpetuity, the spiritual jurisdiction of
it to the Order of Christ, a treaty which was con-
. firmed by King Don Alphonso in 1439.
APPENDIX B.
A FEW PARTICULARS FOR INTENDING
VISITORS.
FOR the information and benefit ofthose who, after

reading this book, may be tempted to Ieave Eng-
Iand and sojourn for a short time in what is some-
times called the second Eden, I give here a few
particuIars l'eIative to the ships, hotels, &c., and
the ex penses in which we were involved by our
four days' excursion to the N orth side.
With regard to the ships I can only say they
are all first-class boats-the average tonnage being
about 4ooo-steady, well appointed, and [urnished
with every regard to comfort and convenience.
The saloons, sm.oking rooms, and cabins are
eIegantly fitted; and, to relieve the tedium of the
voyage, there is to be found in aImost all the ships
both an organ and piano. The necessary instru-
ments for games of various descriptions . are pro-
174 HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN MADEIRA. I
-t.
vided, and, as far as I can judge from my ex-

perience, I should say that on this route, as on lhe
A Saloon Organ.
P. & O. and the American, the games are seldom

idle for want of players. The finest and fastest of
the whole ofthe ships engaged in the South African
..I THE STEAMSHIP SERVICE. 175
Mail Service is undoubtedly the Union Company's

Scot. This is a handsome ship, with a gross ton-
nage just under 7000, built of steel throughout and
fitted in a manner that leaves nothing to be desired.
The fares to Madeira by mail steamer are: first
class fifteen guineas, second class ten guineas.
From Madeira: first class twelve guineas, second
class eight guineas. By intermediate steamer the
fares are somewhat lower, being, outwards: first
class thirteen guineas, second class eight guineas ;
and homewards, ten guineas first and seven guineas
second class. Return tickets, a vailable for six
months, are issued at ten per cento off two single
fares, provided the passage money for the double
journey is paid before starting.
The service by either company is bi-weekly;
but during the months of October, N ovember, and
December on the outward voyage, and April, May,
and June on the homeward voyage-October to
June being what is known as the Madeira season-
the I ntermediate Steamers of the U nion Company
running between England, the Canaries, and the
Cape, call also at Madeira, and as they sail always
a week after themail steamer, there is from October
to December a weekly service to, and from April
to June a ",eekly service from, Madeira. To those
176 HOLlDAY WANDERlNGS lN MADEIRA.
who are not pressed for time, this arrangement

offers some advantages, as it is possible by means
Dining SalDon, 55. Scot.
of it to make a tour in the Canaries as well as in

Madeira.
HOTELS, &C., lN FUNCHAL. 177
There are in Funchal five or six excellent Eng-

lish hotels, at any of which the visitor will find first-
class accommodation, and receive the best of food
and unwearying attention. The charges are, in
the season, about IOS. per diem, or from IOl. to r 61.
per month; but during the summer months, when
the town is not so full, the visitor can safely reckon
upon obtaining accommodation at a reduced tariff.
The hotel charges include lodgings, food, lights,
attendance, and use of the public rooms-such as
music room, billiard room, &c. The meals are
served in good style, and are: breakfast about
nine a.m., luncheon, one p.m., dinner, seven p.m.,
tea and coffee at seven a. m. and four p.m. The
gardens belonging to these hotels are very fine, and
all the year round are full of the most beautiful and
sweet-smelling flowers. The Bella Vista is the
best furnished in this respect. The grounds of this
hotel are three and a half acres in extent, well
levelled, and well laid out, the wants of tennis
players not having been overlooked. There are
also several private boarding houses in Funchal,
kept by English people, where good board and
residence can be obtained at a moderate figure.
The best plan for families is, however, if they
intend to make a stay of anything oveI' a month,
N
r 73 HOLIDAY W ANDERINGS lN MADEIRA.
to engage one of the numerous " Quintas" or villa

residences which are to be found in the suburbs of
Funchal and amongst the neighbouring hills.
These villas are, as a rule, fuUy furnished, but
visitors are recommended to take with them their
own plate and linen. The rents vary according to
size and position from .{ 50 to .{ 200 for the season.
They are most delightful residences, and for those
who are tired of the din and bustle of city life I
know of no more enjoyable existence than to
reside in one of these houses and idle away the
days in the beautiful grounds in which they are
built or amongst the enchanting scenery with which
they are surrounded.
There is quite an English colony.on the island,
and it is noted for its hospitality and its kindness
to visitors fmm the old country.
Outside of Funchal, except at Santa Anna
where a new hotel has recently been built, there is,
as I have said, very little accommodation to be had ;
but such as it is the villagers make you welcome
to; and if the precaution be taken of sending on
before you your own supplies, stopping for a few
days at each place and meanwhile sending instruc-
tions on to the next place at which you intend to
stay, and above ali, not travelling in too large a
COST OF EXCURSION TO NORTH SmE . J 79
party, the difficulties in the way may be to a great

extent removed. Our party was by far too large,
and \\Te had in consequence to put up with incon-
veniences, particular1y as regards sleeping room,
that with a smaller number we should not have
been calIed upon to suffer ; but it must at the sarne
time be confessed that the number of our party
added considerably to the fun which we extracted
out of the tour, and also did something towards
reducing each individual's expenses. Below are
given the figures of my outlay for the four
days:-
Reis.
Hotel, etc., Santa Anna 1,800
do. Boã Ventura 1,900
do. São Vincente 1,290
Horse and man (including food
and lodging of man and
horse) for four days 12,000
Gratuity to man 1,000
Liquid refreshments for self
and man on the journeys 1,100
Total 19,090
4500 reis = J;I English money.
There are many other delightful excursions
round and about the island that are easily arranged

and well worth making, notably those to the
Little Curral, Calheta, Machio, Santa Cruz, and
Camera de Lobos. lndeed, what most visitors find
is, not that there is insufficient to see, but that
there is insufficient time in which to see all that
ought to be seen.
THE END.
ST. DUNSTAN'S HOUSE, FETTER LANE,
LONDON, E.C. 1892.
Select List of Books

ln alI Departmen ts of
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aud CUNNINGHA1\I,
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note-book, by "au Eton boy," ALGER, J. G., EngZishmen in
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ADAl\lS, CrrARLES K., Histo1'i- Arna.teur Angle?' in D Ol:e Dale,
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] 8. 61., 18. aud 58.
ADDISON, Sir R oger de Cov-
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AGASSIZ, ÁLEX., Th1'ee Cl'uises Tales, illust. in colour by E. V. ll.
258" new edito 58.
of the " Bla/Ge," iJlust. 2 vols. 428.
ALBERT, PRINCE. See Bayaru - - Faí1'y Tales, illust. by
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Annual A.merican Oatalogue of AUDSLEY, G. A., OMomo-
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158. each. - - Tchay anel Ohiantí, o.
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..'"'-,~\ ,<' ' A
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A.R.A., G. Rioks, R. Redgrave, CONDER, J.,Flowers of Japan;
R.A., C. Stonehouse, F. Tayler, D ecoration, ooloured Japaneso
G. Thomas, R. G. l'ownsend, Plates, 42s. nett.
bt alI Dejartments of LÜerature. 7
CORREGGIO. See Great D'ANVERS, N., A1'chiteGture
Artists.
and Sculpture, new edito 58.
COWLEY. See Bayard Series. - - Elementar'y .111·t, ATChi-
COX, DAVID. See Great Artists. tectlóre, Sc1tlplul'e, Painling, ncw
COZZENS, F., .11mel'ican edito lOs. 6d.
Yachts, pfs. 2Il.; art. pfs. SIl. lOs. - - Elementa7'y Histo1'y of
- See also Low's Standard JJfusic, 28. aa.
Books.
- - Painting, by F. Cundall,
CRADDOCK. See Low's 68.
Standard Núvela. DAUDET, A., My Brotlle?'
CREvV, B. J., Pet1'oleum, 2115. Jack,7s. Od. ; also 58.
CRISTIANI, R. S'J Soap and - Port Tarascon, by II.
Oandles, 42s. James, 78. Ba.; newedit. 58.
- - P e1jume1'.If, 25s. DAVIES, C., Modem WhiJt,
CROKER, MRs. B. 1\f. See 4s.
Low's Standard Novels. DA VIS, C. T., Bric1cs, Tiles,
CROUCR, A. P., Glimpses of <te., new edito 258.
Feverlana (West Africa), 6s. - - Manufacture of Lectihe1',
- On a SUTj~bounel Ooast, 52s. 6a.
7s. 6cl. ; new edito 5s. - - Manufactu?'e of Pape?', 28J.
CRUIKSRANK G. See - - Stgam Boiler Inc1'Ustation,
Great Artists. 8s.6d.
CUDWORTH, W., .11bmham - - G. B., Intemational LaUJ,
Shal'p, 268. 108. 6d.
CUMBERLAND, STUART, DA WIDOT"lSKY, Glzte, Gela-
Thought-reaclel"s Thought8,lOs. 6a. tine, q-e., 12s. Od.
- - See also Low's Standard Dall of my Life, by Ull Eton boy,
Novela. new edito 2s. 6d.; also Is .
CUND.ALL, F. See Great DE JOINVILLE. Sef) Bayal'Cl
ArtistB. Series.
- - J., Shakespeare, 315. 6d., DE LEON, EDWIN, Under the
5s. and 28. Sta,'s and Unàer the Oresccnt,
CURTIN, J., Myths of the Rus- 2 vols. 128.; new edito 68.
sian8, lOs. 6a. DELLA ROBBIA. Sec Great
CURTIS, C. B., Velazquez anel Ârtists.
JJ[ul'illo, with etohings, 31s. 6d. Denma1'k and Iceland. Seo
and 638. Foreign Countries.
CUSRING, W., .11nonyms, 2 DENNETT, R. E., Seven Years
vols. 528. 6d. a7ltO'ng tios Jl'.iOl·t, 7s. Bd.
- -"'I nitials and Pseuelonyms, DERR Y (Bishop of). Soo
2fís.; ser. II., 218. Prea.chera.
CUTCLIFF.E, R. 0., Trout DE WINT. See Great Artists.
Fishing, new edito 3s. 6a. DIGGLE, J. W., Bishop Fm-
DALY, MRS. D., Digging, S/l'I" s Lanoashir8 LI/e, new edito
Squatting, <te., in N, S. Au~tmlia, 128. 6a.; popular ed. 38. 6d.
12s. - - Se1' mons f01' Daily Life, 58
8 A Setect List 0/ Books
DOBSON, AUSTIN, Hogarlh, Echoes from the n eart, 3s. (id.
with a bibliography, '&0., of EDEN, C. H. See Foreign
prints, illnst. 24s.; l.paper 52s. 6d. Oountries.
- - See also Great Artists. EDMONDS, C., Poetry of the
DODGE, MRs., Hans Brinlcer, Linti·Jacobin, new edito 78. 6d.
the Silver Shate8, new edito 58., and 218.
3s. 6ti.. 25. 6d .; text only, Is. Educaiional Catalogue. Sce
DONKIN, J. G., Trooper and Olassified Oatalogue.
Beti8kin; N. W. monnted police, EDWARDS, American Steam
Oanada, 85. 6ti. Engi,te8't·, 128. 6d..
DONNELLY, IGNATIUS, Atlan- - - Modem Locomotive En-
tis, the Ântecliluvian World, new gine8, 128. 6d.
edito 128. 6ti. - - Steam Engineer's Guide,
- - Cmsm"s Column,authorized 128.611,.
edition, 38. 6ti. - - H. SUTHERLAND. See
- - Dócio·r Huguet, 3s. 6d. Great Musicians.
- - Great Cryptogmm, Bacon's - - M. B., Dream of Míllions,
Oipber in Shakespeare, 2 vols. §'"c., Is.
30s. - - SeeLow·sStandardNovels.
- - Ragnarok.. the Age of EGGLESTON, G. CARY, Jug-
7i'i?'e altd G?'avel, ] 25. Bd.
gernaut, 6s.
DOR:EJ, GUSTAVE, L~fe an,d Re-
miniscences, by Blanohe Roose·
E.!Jypt. See Foreigu COUlltries.
velt, fuUy illust. 24s. Elizabethan Songs. Soe Choice
DOS PASSOS, J. R., Law of Etlitions.
Stockbrokers anil, Stock Ernchanges, EMERSON, DR. P. H., East
35s. Ooast Yarns, 18.
DOUDNEY, SARAH, Godiva - - Engli8h ld?Jlls, now ed. 2.'.
Durleigh, 3 vols. 318. 6d. - - Naturalistic Photogmphu.
DOUGALL, J. D., Shooting new edito 58.
.Appliance8, Practice, §'"c., las. 611,.; - - Pictures of East AngZian
new edito 78. 6d. Life; plates and vignettes, 10;)5.
DOUGHTY, H. M., F1'iesland and 1478.
ilferes anil, the Nethel'!and8, new - - aud GOODALL, Life on
edito illnst. lOs. 6d. the No?:fo17, Broad8, platos, 1268.
DOVETON, F. 13., Poems and and 210s.
Snatches of Song8, 58.; new edito - - Wild Lile on a Tidal
3s.6d. Water, oopper plates, ord. edito
DU CHAILLU, PAUL. See 25s.; édito de !u:JJe, 63s.
JJow's Standard Books. - - R. W., by G. W. COORE,
DUNCRLEY ("Verax.") See 8•. 611,.
Prime Ministers. - - Bil'lhday Boole, 38. 6d.
DUNDERDALE, GEORGE, - - In Concord, a memoir,
Prairie anil, Bush, 68. 78.611,.
Du//'er. See Great Artista. English Catalogue, 1863-71,
DYKES, J. OSWALD. See 428. ; 1872.80, 423. ; 1881-[1,
Preaohers. 528. 611,. ; 58. yearly.
In ali Departmmts 0/ Lx·teratun. 9
English Oatalogue, Index vol. FEILDEN, H. S'l'. J., Som8
1837.5ô, 26s.; 1856-76, 42s.; Public Schools, 2s. 6d.
1874-80, 18s.
- - Mrs., My African Home,
- - Etchings, vaI. v. 45$. ; vi., 78.6d.
2.38.; vii., 25s.; viii., 428.
FENN, G. MANVILLE. See
English Philosophers, edited by Low's Standard Books.
E. B. Ivan Müller, M.A., 3s. 6d.
eaoh. FENNELL, J. G., Book oj the
BRcou, by Fowler. Roach, n. ed. 2s.
Hamilton, by Monck. FFORDE, n., Subaltem, Police.
llartley and James Mill, by Bower. man, and the LitUe Gi".l, Is.
Shaftesbury & Hutchesou; Fowler. - - Trotter, a Poona Myste1-y,
Ad am Smith, by J. A. F a rrer. Is.
ERCKMANN -CIIATRIAN. FIELD, MAUNSELL R, Memo-
See Low's Standard Books. ries, ] Os. 6el.
ERICHtSO~, Life, by W. C.
Chu!'o]" 2 vols. 24s.
FIELDS, J..ums T., Memoirs,
12s.6ri.
ESMARCH, F., Handbook of - - Yesterdays with Authors,
S'urge?'Y, 2 4 8 . . . 1ôs.; also JOs. 6d. '
Essays on Enghsh 1Vnters. FigU1'e Painters of Holland.
See GentIa LHe Series. ::lee Great Artists.
EVANS, G. E., Repentance of FINCK, HENRY T., Pacijic
Magdalene Despar, g-c., poema, Ooast Scenic TOU1', lOs. 6d,.
6s.
- - S. & F., Upper Ten, a FITCH, Lucy. See Nursing
Record Series, Is.
stOl'Y, Is.
- - W. E., Sonfl$ of the Birds, FITZGERALD. See Foreign
Countries.
n. ed. {k
EVELYN, J., An Inca Queen, - - PEROY, Boole lJ'ancier, 5s.
and 12 •. 6d.
5s.
- - J OITN, Life of Mrs. Godol- FITZPATRICK, T., Aulumn
Oruise in the .lEgean, lOs. 6d
phin, 78. 6d.
EVES, C. W., West Indies, - Transatlantic Holiday,
10s.6d.
n. ad. 7s. 6d ..
FAIRB :\IRN, A. M. See FLEMING, S., EnglanrJ and
Oanada,6s.
Preachers.
Familiar Words. Soe GentIe F01'eign Oountries -and British
Oolonies, descriptive handbooks
Life Series. edited by F. S. Pnlling, M.A.
FARINI, G. A., Kalahari Each volume is the work of a.
DI'~ert, 21s. writer who has special acqnaint-
FARRAR, C. S., Histor1j of anoe with tbe auhject, 3s. 6d.
Sculptu?'e, g-c., 68. Australia . by Fitzgerald.
- - lHAumOE, jIinnesota, 6s. Austria-Hungar,V, by Ray.
:FAURIEL, Last Days of the Denmal k and Iceland, by E. C. Otté.
Egypt, by S. L. Poole.
Onns1!la.te, la.•. 6d. France, by Miss Robert •.
F A 'l, T., Thl'ee Germanys, 2 Germany, by L. Sergeant.
vols.35s. Greece, by S. Bu.ring Gould.
10 A Seled List of Books
Fm'eign Oount1'ies, &c,-eont, FRANKEL, JULIUS, Stareh
Japan, by Mossman, Glucose, 9"c., 18s.
Pern, by R, Markbam. FRASER, BISHOP, Lancashil'e
Rnssia, by Morfill. TAfe, u. ed. 128. Sd.; popula.r ed.
Spain, by Webster. 3s. Sd.
Swedeu aud Norway, by Wooda.
West Iudies, by O. H. Eden. FREEMAN, J., Melbourne Life,
]'OREMAN, J., Philippine lights and shadows, 6s.
Islands, 21s. FRENCR, F.,Home Fairies and
Hea?·t F'lowers. illust. 24s.
FOTHERINGHAM, L. M., Freneh and English Birthday
Nyassaland, 7s. 6d. Book, by Kate D. Clark, 7s. Sd.
FOWLER, Japan, Ohina, anel Freneh Revolution, Lette/'s f1'om
InMa, 105. Sd. Paris, translated, lOs, ad,
FRA ANGELICO. See Great Fresh Woods anel Paslu1'es New,
.Artists. by the .Ancbor of ".An .Angler·s
FRA BARTOLOMMEO, AL- Days," 58., Is. 6d., Is.
BERTINELLI, aud ANDREA. FRIEZE, Dup1'e) Flm'entine
DEL SA.RTO. See Great .Artista. Sculptor, 78. Sd.
FRANC, MAUD JEANNE) Beat- FRISWELL, J. H. See Gentle
I'ice llfelton, 4s. Life Series.
- - Emily's Ohoiee, n. ed. 5s. F1'oissa1,t f01' Boys, by Lanier,
- - Golden Gifts, 4s. new eel. 78. 6d.
- - Hall's Vine.ljaTd, 43. FROUDE, J. A. See Prime
- - Into the Light, 4s. Ministers.
- - John's Wife, 4s. Gainsborough anel Oonstable.
- - Little Men!J; f01' better) See Great .Artista.
for WO?'se, 4s. GASPARIN, Sunny Fields and
- - Ma1'ian, a Tale, n. ed. 5s. Elhady Woods, S8.
- - Mastel' of Ralston, 4s. GEFFCKEN, British Empi1'e,
- - 1I1innie's 1I1ission, a Tem- 7s.6d.
pe?'ance Tale, 4s. Generation of Judges, n. e. 7s.6d.
- - No longer a Ohild, 4s. Gentle Life Series, edited by J,
- - Silken OOTds and I1'on Hain Friswell, sm. 8vo. 6s. per
F'tJtte?'s, a Tale, 48. vol.j calf extra, 105. 6d: ea:; l~mo,
28. 6d., exceptwhan prlOe IS glven.
- - Two Sides to Every Ques- GentIe Life.
tion, 4s. Abont in tha World.
- - Vermont Vale, 58. Like unto Obrist.
A plainer ediUon is published at Familiar W ords, 68.; also 38. 6d.
2.~.Sd. Jlfontaigne's Essays.
Franee. See FOTeign Coulltries. Sidney's .Arcadia, 6s.
FRANCIS, F., Wa1', Waves, Gentle Life, second serias.
Varia; readiugs, 105. 6d.
and Wandel"ings, 2 vols. 24s.
Silent bonr; essaya.
- - See also Low's Standard Half-length Portraits.
Series. Essays on English Writers.
Fran7c'8 Ranehe; 01', My Holi- Other People's Windows, 6s. &2s. 6!Z.
day ';n the Rockies, n. ed. 5s. Â Man's Thoug1ts.
In alI Dejartmmts 0/ Lüerature. II
Ge01'ge Eliot, by G. W. Cooke, GORDON, J. E. H., Ph ysical

10s.6d. Treatise on Electricity and Mag-
Ge7·many. See Foreign Coun- netism. 3rd ed. 2 vols. 42s .
tries.
- - Electric Lightín.CJ, 18s.
GESSI) ROMOLO PASHA., S l'ven
Yea1'8 in the SOILdan, 18s. - - School Elect1'icify) 58.
GHIBERTI & DONATELLO. - - Ml's. J. E. R., D eco1'(ttive
See Great Artists. Elect1'icity, ilJust. 12s.
GILES, E., Á2tStmlia Twice GOWER, LORD RONALD, Hand-
Traversed, 1872-76, 2 vols. 30s. bo07t to lhe À1·t Galleries of Bclgium
GILL, J. See Low's Readers. and Holla71,rt, 58.
GILLESPIE, W. M.) Szmey- - - No1'ihb7'ook Gallel'Y, 638.
ing, n. ed. 21s. and 105s.
Giolto, by Harry Quilter, íllllSt. - POJ'traíts at Cast ZeHowal'd.
15s. 2 vols. 1268.
- - See also Great Artists. - - Sec also Great Artists.
GIRDLESTONE, C., Private GRAESSI, Italían Dictíonm'Y)
Devotio?!8, 2s. 3s . 6d.; roan, 58.
GLADSTONE. See Prime GRAY, T. See Choice Eus.
Ministel's. Great Á?üsts, Bio{}rapldes,
GLENELG, P.) D evil anrl the ilIustrated, emblematícal bind-
Doetor, Is. iug, 3s. Bd. p er v 01. except w here
the pl'ice is given.
GLOVER, R., Light of the Barbizon School, 2 vols.
World, n. ed., 2s. 6d. OIaneIe le Lorrain.
GLÜCK. Sec Great Musieians. Oorreggio,2s. 6d.
Goethe's Faust!ts, ill orig. rhyme, Oox and De Wint.
by Huth, 5s. Georgo Oruíkshank.
DelJa Robbia and Oellini, 2s. Gd.
- - F7'Osa, by C. A. Bucbheilll Albreoht Dürer.
(Low's German Series), 3s. 6d. Figure Paintings of Holland.
GOLDSMITH, O., She Stoops Fra Angelico, Masaccio, &c.
to Conque1', by Anstin Dobson, Fra Bartolommeo, &c.
illust by E. A. Abbey, 843. Gainsborough aDd Coustable.
- - See also Cboice Editions. Ghiberti and Donatello, 28. 6d.
GOOCH, FA.NNY C., Hlexicans, Hogal't Giotto, by H. Qnilter, 15s.
168. h, by A. Dobson.
Halls Holbein.
GOODALL) Life and Lanrl- Landscape Painters of Honand.
scape 071, the Norfolk Bl'oads, 126s. Landseer.
and 2108. Leonardo da Vinci.
- - &EMERSON, Píctu1'es of Little Masters of Germany, by
Ea8t Anglian Life, <C5 58. and <C7 78. Scott; éd. de lil'l'e, lOs. 6d.
GOODMAN, E. J., The Best Mantegna alld Fraucia.
Tour in Noru;ay, 68. Meissonior, 28. ad.
- - N. & A., Fen Skatíng, 58. Mnll'eady.Miohelaugelo.
GOODYEAR,W. H., Gramrnar MUI'il!O, by Minor, 28. 6d.
of the LOtU8, Ornament and Su71, Overbeok.
Wor8hip,63s. nett. Raphael.
I2 A S eteei Lút of Books
a 'reat Á1'tists-continued. HADLEY, J ., Roman LaUJ,
Rembrandt. 7s.6d.
Reynolds.
Romney and Lawrence, 2s. 6d.
Half-length POl'traits. See
Rubens, by Kett. GentIe Life Serias.
Tintoretto, by Osler. HALFORD, F. M., Dl'V Fly-
Titian, by Heath. fishing, n. ad. 255.
Turner, by MonkhoUS8. - - Floating Flies, lGs. & 30s.
Vandyck and Hals. HALL, HalO to Live Long, 28.
VeIasquez.
Vernet & Delaroche.
I-IALSEY, F. A., Slide Valvc
Gea?'s, 8s. 6el.
Watteau, by M ollett, 2s. 6d.
Wilkie, by hlollett. HA MILTON. See English
Great lJIusicíans, editeu by P hiIosophers.
F. Hueffer. Â. series of bio- - - E. Fly-fishing, 6s. aml
grapbies, 3s. eaoh;- lOs. Gel.
Baob, by Poole. - - Riverside Naturalist, 14s.
Beethoveu. HAJI.{ILTON'S Mexícan Hand-
*Berlioz. boo7c, 8s. Gd.
Cherubini. HANDEL. See Great Musi-
English Church Compoaera. cians.
""GlÜok.
Handel. HANDS, T:, Numerícal E.cer-
Haydn. Gises in Ohemist'l"Y, 2s. 6d.; wi th-
* MSl'cello. out an s. 28.; aliSo sep . 6d.
Mendelssohn. IIanr1yauide to Dry-fly Fishin(J,
Mozart. by Cotswold Isys, Is.
*Palestrina and the Rom/tu SchooI. Handy G1tide Boole to Japa71(' .•e
Purcell. Islands, Cs. Gd.
Rossini and Modern ltaIian Schod.
Schubert. HARDY, A. S., Passe-rose, 6s.
Schumann. - - Taos. See Law's Stanll-
Richard Wagner. ard Novels.
Weber. IIARKUT, F., Cons1Jimtor, 68.
'" .Á'I"e not yet published. HARLAND, MAmoR, Home
G,·eece. See Foreign Countl'ies. XitGhen, 58.
GRIEB, German Dictíonary, n. Harper's Yottng People, vaIs.
. ed. 2 vols. 215. L-VII. 78. 6d. each; gilt 88.
GRIMM, H., Literature, 8s. 6d. HARRIES, A. Sec Nursing
GROHMANN, Camps in the Record Series.
Rode'i es, 12s. 6d. HARRIS, W. B., Lancl of the
GROVES, J. PERCY. See A!1'iGan Sultan, 105. 6d.; 1. p.
1,ow's Standard Booka. 31s.6d.
GUIZOT, Hístory of England, HARRISON, MARY, Modem
illust. 3 vols. re-iesue at lOs. 6d. Coo7cery, 65.
per voI. - - Skilful Cook, n. ed. 58.
- - History of France, illust. - - 1Y!Rs. B. Old-fashioned
re-issue, 8 vols. lOs. 6d. each. Fai'l"1J Boole, 6s.
- - Abridged by G. Massan,5s. --VI., LondonHof~8es, illust.
GUYON, MADAME, Life) 68. n. edito Is. 6d., 6s. net; &; 2s. 6d.
In alI Dejartments 0/ Literatun. 13
HARTLEY and MILL. See HILL, A. STA VELEY, FrQ'm
Euglish Philosophers. Home to Home in N .• W. Oanada,
IIATTON, JOSEPH, Journalistic 21s., new edito 7s. 6d.
Lonclon, 12s. 6d.
--Soe also Low's Standard
- - G. B., Footstep8 0/ John-
.on, 638,; édition de luxe, 147 ••
Novela.
liA WEIS, rr.R. ,Broad Ghurch, IIIN1\IAN, R., Eclectic Physi-
6s. cal Geography, 58.
- Poets in thePulpit,'10~.6d. Dints on jJ1'oving Wills witllOut
ProfessionalAs8istance, n. ed. Is.
new edito 6s.; alaa 3s. 6d.
- - :Mrs., Housekeeping, 2s. Gd. HOEY, lIIrs. CASHEL. Sec
Low's Standard Novels.
- - Beautijul HOUIJes, 48., new rrOFFER, Gaoutchouc ~. Gutta
edito 1.•. Pe1'dr], 12s. 6d.
JIAYDN. See Great Musicians. HOGARTH. Sec Gr. Artista.
IIAZLITT, W., Round Table, ROLBEIN. See GreatArtists.
2s Gd.
] IEAD, PEROY R. See Illus. HOLDER, CHARLES F., Ivory
King, 8s. Gd.
'l'oxt Books and Great Artista.
- - Living Líghts, 8s. 6d.
IlEARD, A.F., Russiall Ghurch,
16s. - Ma1'vels oj Animal Li/e,
88. Gil.
TIEARN, L., Youma, 58.
lJEATH, F. G., Fern World, rrOLM, SAXE, Dra;cy Miller,
2 s. 6d. and 2 •.
12s. 6d., new edito (Js.
rrOLl\IES, O. WENDELL, BejoTa
- - GERTRUDE, TeU us Why, the OUI"few, 55.
2".6d.
- - Ot"eT the Tea GUpiI, 68.
UELDMANN, B., Mutiny oj
tl!e "Lcanclcr," 7s. 6,1. and 58. - - Iron Gate, <5·c., Poem8, 6s.
- - Sec also Low's Standard - - La,;t Leaj, 428.
Dooka for Boys. - - Mechanism in Thought
I1ENTY, G. A., Hidden Foe, and MoraIs , Is. 6d.
2 vols. 21.·. - - Mortal Antipathy, 88,6d.,
28. and Is.
- - See also Low's Standard
Books for Boys. - - Our Hundred DayB in
- - RIOIIMOND, Australiana, Europe, new edito 68.; 1. paper
1)8.
15s.
lIERBERT, T ., Salads and - Poetical W01'ks, new edit., I
2 vols. 108. 6d.
Sandtviches, Gel.
IIICKS, C. S., Our B oys, and - - lVo?"!(s, prose, 10 vaIs.;
poetry, 4 vola.; H vols. 848.
what to do with :r'hem; Merchant Limited large paper edit., 14 vols.
Se?'1Jice, 58. 2948. nett.
- - Yachts, Boats, and Ganoes, - Sec also Low's Standard
108.6d.
Novels and Rose Library.
IIIGGINSON, T. W., Atlantic HOLUB, E., South A/rica,
E8says, 68. 2 vols. 428.
- - Hístory ojthe U.S., illust. HOPKINS, MANLBY, Treats"
Us.
011. the OardinaZ Nwmbff'B, 21. 6iI.
14 A Select Lz'st 01 Books
H01'aee in Latin, with Smart's nlust. Text-Books-continued.
literal translation, 2s. 6d. ; trans. Architecture, Gothio and Renais.
lation only, Is. 6d. sance.
HORETZKY, O., Canada on German, Flemish, and Dutch
the Pa,cific, 58. Painting.
HolO and whm'e to Fish in Painting, Olassic and Italian.
heland, by H. Regan, 8s. 6(l. Painting, English and American.
HOWARD, BLANOHE W., Tony SCl1lpture, moderno
tlte lJfa,id, 8s. 6il. Sculpture, by G. Redford.
- - See also Low's Standard Spanish anel French artista.
Novels. INDERWIOK, F. A., I ntel'-
nOWELI,S, W. D" Suburban ?'egm~m" lOs. 6d.
S k etches, 7s. 6el . - - SirleliOhts on lhe Stuarts,
- - Uncli,'cove1'ed Count1y, new edito 7s. 6 el.
3s. fld. and Is. INGELOW, JEAN. Seo Low's
IIOWORTH, H. H" Glacial Standard No.els_
Nig htmare, 18s. INGLIS, OU?' NelO Zea7and
- - lJ1ammoth and the Flood, Cou8ins, 6s.
18s, - - Sp01't anel TV01'k on ale
HUDSON, N. H., P!t1'ple Lancl Nepaul F?'ontier, 21s.
that Engla,nd Lo~t; Banda Orien- --- Tent Life in Tioer Lanrl,
tal 2 vaIs. 218.: 1 vol. 6s. 18s.
HUEFFER. E. See Great IRVING, W., Litlle Britain,
lIIusicians. lOs. 6el. anel 6s.
HUGHES, HUGH PmOE. See - - Works, "GoolIrey Oray-
Preachers. on" edito 27 vols, 16l. 16s.
HUME, F., Creatul'e of the JAOKSON, J., Handwriting
Niyht, Is. in Relation to H.'Iyiene, 8d.
HUm01'OU8 Art at the Naval - - New Style Vertical W1'itin,1J
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18 A Select Lút 0/ Books
Low's Stand.Novels-continued. Low's Stand. Novels, new issue
Mae Donald (Geo.) Mary Marston. at sbort intervals, 28. 6d. aud 28.
- - Orts. Blackmore, Alice Lorl'aine.
- - Stepben Archer, &c. - - Obristowell.
- - The Vicar's Daughtcr. - - Clara VaughalJ.
- - Weighed and Wanting. - - Ol'ipps the Oarrier.
1Iacmastel', Our Pleasant VicBs. - - Kic and Kitty.
Macquoid (Mrs.) Diane. - - Lorna Doone.
Musgrave (Mrs.) Miriam. - - Mary Anerley.
Osborn, SpeU of Ashtaroth, 58. - - Tommy Upmore.
Prince Maskiloff. Cable, BOlJaventure.
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- - Daisies aud Buttercups. Cumbcrland, Vasty Deep.
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- - Struggle for Fame. Edwal'ds, Half.way.
Russell (W. Olark) BetwixL the Hardy, Laodicean.
Forelauds. --l\Iadding Orowd.
- - Frozen Pirate. - - Mayol' of Casterbridge.
- - Jack's Oourtsbip. - - Trumpet-Major,
- - J ohu HoldslVorth. - - '1'wo on a Tower.
- - Little Loo. Hatton, Old Rouse at Sandwicb.
- - My Watch Below. - - Three Reornits.
- - Ocean Free Lanoe. Hoey, Golden Sorrow.
- - Sailor's Sweetheal't. - - Out of Court.
- - Sea Queen. - - Stern Chase.
- - Strange Voyage. Rolmes, Guardian Angel.
- - The Lady Maud. Ingelow, John Jerome.
- - Wreck of the Gro8venor. - - Sarah de Berenger.
Steuart, Kilgl'oom. Mao Donald, Adeja Cathcart.
Stocktou (F. R.) Ardis Claverden. - - Guild COUl't.
- - Bee·man of Orn, 58. - - Slephen Archer.
- - Hundredth Man. - - Vica1"s Daughter.
- - The late Mrs. Null. Oliphant, Innocent.
Stoker, Snake's Passo Riddell, Daisies and Buttercnps.
Stowe (Mrs.) Old Town Folk. - - Senior Partner.
- - Poganuc People. Stockton, Bee·man of Orn, 58.
'l'homas, Rouse ou tbe Sear. - - Dusantes.
'1'homson, Uln, ~n African Ro. - - Mrs. Lecks and Mrs. Alesbine.
mance. Stowe, Dred.
Tourgee, MIll'vale Eastman. - - Old Towu Foll;:.
Tytler (S.) Duchess Frances. - - Poganuc People.'
Vane, From tbe Dead. Thomson, Ulu.
Wallace (Lew.) Ben RUl'. Walford, HeI' Great Idea, &c.,
Warner, Little Journey in tbe Stories.
World. Low's Ge'l'man Sel'ies, a gradu-
Woolson (Constance Fenimore) ated courae. See" German."
Anne.
- - East Angles.
Low's Readers. See English
Reader and Freuch Reader.
- - For the Major, 58.
- - J upiter Lights. Low,'s Stanàard Boolcs for BO.1J8 ,
wlth numerous illustratious,
See u,18o Seu, Sto'l'ies. 28. 6d. eaoh; gil t edges, 3s. 6d.
In alI Departments 0/ Lx·teratun. 19
L OIO'S Stand. Books for Boys- Low's Stand. Boo1cs for Boys-
continued. continued.
Adventures in New Guinea: the Kingston (W. H. G.) Snowshoes
Narrative of Louis Treganca. and Canoes.
Biad (Lucien) Adventures of a - - Two Supercargoos.
Young Naturalist. - - With AKe and Rifle on the
- - My Rarnbles in theNew World. Weatern Prairies.
Bonssenard, Oruaoes of Guiana. Laurie (A.) Conquest of the 1\loon.
- - Gold Seekers, a sequeI to the - - New York to Breat in Seven
above. Houra.
ButI\'r (001. Sir Wm., KO.B.) Red MacGregor (John) A Thousand
Oloud, the Solitary Sioux : a Tale Miles in the Rob Roy Oanoe on
of the Great Prairie. Rivera and Lakes of ELlropa.
Oahuu (Leon) AC:;ventures of Oap- Maclean (li. E.) Maid of the Ship
taiu l'rIago. Golden A,ge,
- - BIne Bannol'. Meunier, Great Huntiug Grouuels
Oéliere, Startlillg Exploits of the of the W orld.
Doctor. lIIll11er, Noble Worc1a and Deeds.
OhailIu (Paul du) Wild Lifa under Perelaer, The Three Deserters;
the Equator. 01', Ran Awa,y from the Dutoh.
Oallingwood (Harry) Undal' the Reec1 (Talbot Baiues) Sir Ludar: a.
MeteOl' :B'Jag. l 'ale of the Days of the Good
- - Voyage of the Aurora. Ql1eeu Bp.ss.
Oozzens (S. W.) J\farvellous Oountry. Rousselot (Louis) Drl1mmer-boy: a
Doc1ge (Mi' •. ) Hana Brinker; 01', StOl'y of tbe Time of Washington.
The Silver Skatea. - - King of the Tigers.
Du Ohailln (Paul) Stories of tho - - Serpent Oharmer.
Gorilla Coantry. - - Sou of tho Constable of
Ercl,mann - Chatl'ian, Dl'others France.
Rantzau. Russell (W. Clark) Frozen Pira tas.
Fenu (G.Manville) OlHo the Wilds. Stanl ey, My Kaluhl-Pl'iuce, Killg
- - ' o Silvel' CailOn.
and Slave.
Graves (Percy) Oharmouth Grange; Winder (IP. II.) Lost in Afrioa.
a Tale of the 17th Centul'yl
Heldmanu (B.) l\lnliny on Boal'd Low' s Standlt?'Cl Series of Boolc.s
the Ship Leander. by popular writera, cloth gilt,
Henty (G. A.) OOl'net of Horae: a 28.; gilt edges, 2s. Bd. each.
Tale af Mal'lborollgh'a Wars. Alcott (L. l\L) Á Rose i11 Bloam.
- - Jack Archer: a l'ale of the - - Au Old-Fashioned Gir!.
Orimea. - - - Al1ut Jo's Sorap Bag.
- - Winning hia Spurs: a Talo of - Eight COl1sins, illust.
the Orusades. - - Jack and Jill.
Johnstone (D. Lawson) Mountaiu - - Jimmy's Cruise.
Kingdam. • - - Little Men.
Kennedy (E. B.) Blacka and Buah- - - LittleWomen and LittleWomcu
rangers in Queeneland. Wedded.
Kingaton (W. H. G.) Ben Burton; - - Lulu'a Library, illust.
01', Born and Bred at Sea. - - Shawl Straps.
- - Captain 1l1ugford; 01', Onr - - Silver Pitchel's.
Balt and Fresh Watel' Tutora. - - Spinuiug- Wheel Stories.
- - Dick Cheveley. - - Under the Lilacs, illust.
- - Heir of Kilfinnan. - - Workand B,!lginning Again, m.
22 A Select Lt'st of Books
MONCR. See English Philo- MUSGRAVE,1\1:Rs. See Low's
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J\fONEY, E., The T1'uth About - SavageLondon, n. e. 3s. 6el.
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Montaigne's Essays, l'evised by
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MORF1LL, W. R., Russia, Nelson'lJ TV01'ds anelDeeds, 3s. 6d.
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MORWOOD,V.S., OUI' Gipsies, N1XON, St01'y ofthe Transvaal,
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M08S, F . J., Great South Spa, Nord8nakióld's Voyage, tr::ms.
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26 A Select List 0.1 Books
Rose Lib1'a/'Y- contimted. ROWBOTHAM, F. J., Prairie
Alcott (L. M.) Old·fashioned Girls, Land,58.
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- - Silver Pitchers.
- - U nde1' the LilacB, 28.;. cIotb, RUBENS. See Great Artists.
3s.6d. R\JGGLES, H. J.,Sha1cespea1'e'8
- - Work, A Story of Experience, Method, 78. 6d.
2 vols. in 1, clotb, 38. 6d. RUSS ELL, G.W.E.,Gladstone.
Stowe (Mrs.) PaarI of Or1"s Island. See Prime Ministers.
- - Minister's Wooing. - - W. CLARK, Mrs. DineJ'
- - We and Ou1' Neighbon1's, 2s. Jewels, 2s. 6d.
- - 1\1y Wife and I, 2s.
Dodge (Mi"8.) Hans Brinker, 01', - - Nelson's. WO?'ds and Deeels,
The Sil ver Skates, Is.; clotb, 5s. ; 3s.6d.
3s. 6d.; 28. 6 l. - SailO1"S Languar;e, illus,
Lowell (J. R.) My Study Windows. 38.6d.
Irolmes (Oliver Wendell) Guardian - See also Low's Standard
Angel, clotb, 28. Novels and Sea Stories.
Warner (O. D.) My Snmmer in a - - W. HOWARD, Prince of
Garden, cloth, 2s.
WaZe8' TouT, iUust. 52s.6d. and
Stowe (M1'8.) Dred, 2s.; cIoth gilt, 848.
3s. 6el.
OnrIeton (W.) Oity Ballads, 2 vols, Russía. See :Foreign Countries.
in I, cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. Saints anel theí1' Symbols, 3s. 6d.
- - Legends, 2 vols. in 1, oIoth SAINTSBURY, G., Em'Z of
gilt, 2s. Bd. Derby. See PI'ime Ministers.
- - ~'arm BaIlads, 6d. and 9d.; 3 SAINTINE, Picciola, 2s. 6d.
vols. in 1, cloth gilt, 38. 6d. and 28. See Low's Staudard
- - Farm FestivaIs, 3 vols. in 1, Series.
cloth gilt,. 3s. 6d.
- - Farm Legends, 3 vols. in I, SALISBURY, LORD. SeePrime
cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. Ministers.
Clients of Dr. Bernagius, 2 vols. SAMUELS. See Low's Stan-
Howells (W. D.) Undi8cove1'ed dard Series.
Oountry. SANDARS,German Primm', Is.
Olay (O. M.) Baby Rne. SANDEAU, Seagull Rock, 28.
- - Story of Helen Troy. and28.6d. Low's Standard Serie&.
Whitney (1\1rs.) Hitherto, 2 vols.
cloth, 3s. 6d. SANDLANDS, HolO to Develop
Vocal Powe1', Is.
Fawoett (E.) Gentleman of Leisure.
Batler, Nothing to Wear. SAU ER,EumpeanCommer'ce,5s.
ROSS, MARS, Cantab?'ia, 218. - - Italian Grammal' CKey,
2s.),5s.
ROSSINI, &c., See Great
Mnsicians. - - Spanish Dialogues, 2s. 6d.
Roth8childs, by J. Reeves,78. 6d. - - Spanish Gmmma?' (Key,
28.), 58.
Roughing it afte?' Gold, by Rux,
new edito Is. - - Spanish Readm', new edito
3s.6d.
ROUSSELET. See Low's SAUNDERS, J., Jaspm- Deane,
Standa.rd BGoks. 108.6cl.
In alI DejJartmmts 0/ Literature. 27
SOHAAOK, M. J., Anarchy, SHEPHERD, British School of
1G6. Pl1IinUng, 2nd edito 58.; 8rd edito
SOHAUERMANN, Omament sewed,18.
for technical schools, lOs. Gel. SHERID.A.N,Rivals, cal. plates,
SCHERER, Essays in English 52s. 6(l. nett; art. pr. 105s. nett.
Literature, by G. Saintsbury, 6s. SIIIELDS, G. O., Big Game
SOIlERR, English Literature, of North Amel'ica, 21s.
bistory, 8s. 6d. - - Omisings in the Oascades,
SCllILLER'S P1'osa, selections 10s.6d.
by Buchheim. Low's Series 2s. 6el. SIlOCK, W. H., Steam Boilm's,
SCHUBERT. See Great Musi- ?3s. 6d.
cians. SIDNEY. See GentIa Life
SCHUMANN. See Great Series.
1I1usicians. Silent Hour. See GentIe Life
SCHWEINFURTH. See Low's Series.
Standard Library. SIMKIN, Our ./h·mies, plates ill
Scientific Education of Dogs, 6s. imitation of water·colonr (5 parts
SCOTT, LEADER, Renaissa'nce at Is.), 6s.
Df ...b·t in Italy, 31s. Gd. SIMSON, Ecuador and the
- - See also lllust. Text-books. PutumayoT, 8s. 6d.
- - SIR GILBERT, Autobio- SKOTTO WE, Hanoverian
biography, 18s. Kings, new edito 3s. Gd.
- - W. B. See Great Artists. SLOANE, T. O., HomeExperi-
S ELM.A., ROBERT, Poems, 58. ments, 6s.
SERGE.A.NT, L. See Foreign SMITH, HAMILTON, and
Countries. LEGROS' F"ench Dictiona1-Y, 2
Shadow of the Rock, 2a. 6d. vols. 16s., 2] s., and 22s.
SHAFTESBURY. See English SMITH, EDWARD, Oobbett, 2
Philosophers. vols.24s.
SHAKESPEARE, ed. by R. G. - - G., ASsy1"Ía, 18s.
White, 3 vols. 36s.; édito de luze, - - Ohaldean Account of
638. Genesis, new edito by Sayce, 1&.
- - Annals; Life 9' Wor7c, 28. - - GERARD. See TIlustrated
- - Hamlet, 1603, also 1604, Text Books.
78.6d. - - T. ROGER. See TIlustrated
- - Hamlet, by Karl Elze, Text Books.
12s. 6d. Socrates. See Bayard Series.
- - Heroines, by living paint. SOMERSET, Our Village Life,
ers, 10.3s.; artista' proofs, 630s. 5s.
- - Macbeth, with etchings, Spain. See Foreign Countries.
105s. and 528. 6d. SPA YTH, Draught Playel',
- - Songa and Sonnet8. See new edito 123. 6d.
Choice Editions. SPIERS, French Dictionary,
- - :L'aming O; the Shrew, 2 vols. 18s., half bound, 2 vols.,
adapted for drawing·room, paper 2h
wrappcr, Is. SPRY. See Low'sStand. Library.
A Select List of Books
PINTO, How I Crossed Africa, Preachers oftheAge-continued.
2 vols. 42s. Sarmons, by Rev. C. H. Spurgeon.
Playtime LibraT'lJ. See Hum. AgoniaJ Christi, by Dean Lefroy, of
phrey aud Runtingdon. N orwich.
Pleasant lJistory of Reynard the Sermons, by R. C. G. MonJe, M.A.
Foro, trans. by T. Roscoe, illus. Volumes will follow in quielG 8ucces-
7 s. 6d. sion by other wcll-known mono
POCOCK, R., Gravesend ilis- Prime Ministe1's, a series of
t01'ian, 5s. politicaJ biograpbies, edited by
POE, by E. C. SLcdman, 3s. 6d. Stuart J. Reio, 3s. 6d. eacb.
1_ Earl' of Deaconsfield, by J. An-
- - Raven, ill. by G . Doré, 638. thony Froudo.
Poem8 of fhe Inner Life, 58. 2. Viscount lIielbourne, by ITemy
Poet7'y of Nature. See Choice Dnnckley (" Vcraro ").
Editions. 3. Sir RobOl·t Peel, by Justin
Poetry offhe Anti-Jacobin, 78. 6d. McCarlby.
aud 21s. 4. Viscount Palmerston, by the
POOL"' S O d Marquis of Lorne.
P.. , omerset ustoms an 5. Earl Russell, by Stuart J. Reiil.
Legends,5s. 6. Right R on. W. E. Gladstone, by
- - S. LANE, Egypt, 3s. Bd. G. W. E. Russell.
Foreign Countries. 7. Earl of Aberdeen, by Sir Arlhur
POPE, Seleet Poetical Works, Gordon.
(Bernhard Tauohnitz Collection), 8. lIfarquis of SaJisbury, by R. D.
2s. Tra ill.
PORCHER, .A., Ju venile 9. E nrl of Derby, by George Saints-
Freuch Plays, Is. bury.
Portraits oif Racehorses, 4 voIs. li- ** .d n edition, limited to 250 aopies,
is issu ed on hamd-made paper,
12Rs. rn ecliurn 8110, bound irt hall vellum,
POSSELT, St'l'ucture of Fib7'es, cloth sidos, gilt tnp. PT'ice for the
638. 9 vols. 4l. 4s. nett.
- - Textile Design, illust. 288. Prince Maskiloif. See Low's
POYNTER. See . Illustrated Standard Novels.
Text Books. Prince of NU7'sery Playmates,
P7'eachm's of the Age, 3s. 6d. ea. new edito 2... 6d.
Living Theology, by Ris Grace the PRITT, T. N., OountT'lJ Trout
Arcbbishop of Canterbury. Flies, lOs.6d.
The Conquering Christ, by Rev. A. Reynolds. See Great .Artists.
Maclaren.
Ver b~w. Cruci8, by the Bishop of Purcell. See Great 1.fusicians.
Derry. QUILTER, H., Gtolto, Life,
ELhical Christianity, by R. P. &,e. 15s.
Hnghes. RAMBAUD, Historyof RU8sia,
Sermous, by Canon W. J. Knox- new edit., 3 vols. 21s.
Little. R.A.PH.A. EL. See Great .Artists.
Ligh t and Peace, by R. R. Reynolds. EDFORD S
Faith and Duty, by A.M. Fairbairn. R' ,culpture. See
Plain Words on Grea.t Themes, by Illustl'ated Text.book8.
J. O. Dykee. . R~DGRAVE, Enol. Painters,
Sermons, by the Bishop of Ri~i!. ... '•. ~ : 108. 6à. and 12s.
/ ::"( :~,~~~-~ ~
Y..-,~... _~tJ':;~' ':.' - .
In alI DejJartments 0.1 Literature. 25
RBED, SIR E. J., Modem Ships ROBINSON, "Romeo" Coates,
of 1Var, 108. 6d. 7s.6d.
- - T. R, Roger lngleton, - - Noah's Ar7c, n. ed. 38. 6d.
Minor, 58. - - Sinners <J Saints, lOs. 6d.
- - Si?' Luelar. See Low's - - Se9 also Low's Stamlaru
Standard Books. Series.
R]!;ID, M:.AYNIlJ, CAPT., Stories - - Wealth anel its Sources,
of Strange Adventures, illust. 6s. 58.
- - STUART J . See Prime - - 'V. C., Law of Patenis,
Jl.[inisLerA. 3 vols. 105s.
- - T. W EMYSS, Land of the ROCHEFOUCAULD. See
Boy, lOs. 6d. Bayard Series.
R emarkaule Bindings in British ROCKSTRO, Histor'lj of .Jfusic,
llIuseum, 168s.; 94s. Bd.; 738. Gd. new ed. 148.
and 63s. RODRIGUES, Panam a Canal,
R KMBRANDT. See Great Art- 5$.
iats. ROE, E. P. See Low's Stand-
Reminiscences of a BO'ljhood, 6,<. ard Series.
liEIIIUSAT, lJIemoil'S, Vols. r. ROG ERS, S. See Choico
and II. new ed. 168. each. Editions.
- - Select Letters, 16s. ROLFE, Pompeii, 7s. (id.
REYNOLDS. See Gr. Artists. Romantic Stories of the Legal
- - HENRY R., Light <J Peace, Profe8sion, 7s. 6d.
<te. Sermons, 3s. 6d. ROMNEY. See Great Artists.
RlClIARDS, J. W., Alumi- ROOSEVELT, BL.ANCHE H.
nium, new edito 21s. Home Life of Longfellotu, 78. 6d.
RICHARDSON, Ohoice of ROSE, J ., Mechanical Drawil1[J,
Bo%$, 3,. Bd. lBs.
RICIITER, J. P., ltalian Ari, - - Practical .Jfachinist, new
42s. ed. 12s. 6d.
- - See also Great Artista. - - Key to Engines, 8s. (id.
RIDD ELL. Seo Low's Stand- - - lJIodern Steam Engines,
ard Novels. 31s. Bd.
RIDEAL, Women of the Time, - - Steam Boilers, 128. Gd.
14 .~. Rose Libmry. Popular Litera-
RIFFAULT, Calours for ture of ali countries, per vol. I •. ,
Painting, 31s. Bd. unless the price is given.
RUS, lImo the Other Ilalf Alcott (L. M.) Eight Consins, 2s.;
Lives, 108. Bd. cloth, 3s. 6d.
RIPON, Bp. OF. ScePreachers. - - Jack and Jill, 2s.; cloth,5s.
I{O BERTS, MISS, France. Soe - - Jimmy's crnise in the Pina-
fore, 2s.; cloth, 3s. 6d.
Foreien Countries. __ Little Women.
- - \V., EngZish Boolcselling, __ Little Women Wedtled; Nos .
carlier history, 7s. 6 d . · 4 and 5 in 1 voI. cloth, 3s. Bd.
ROBIDA, A.,Toilette, colo - - Little llfen, 28. ; cloth gilt,
79. Bd. '0\" O QJ. rI'>
8s. Bd.
(J:;:;--':'!;. -, '1'"'/
~ ( ' > T.... I_~ ):.;.
"?... , . ..::"-)
.~-_:::..
... f.)NC"p.. ....
.b.
..,;'\
26 A Se!ect List 0.1 Books
Rose Library- continued. ROWBOTHAM, F. J., P1'airie
Alcott (L. M.) Old·fashioned Girls, Land,5s.
28.; cloth, 38. 6d. Royal Naval Exhibition, a sou-
- - Rose in Bloom, 2s. ; c1. 3s. 6d. venir, mus. Is.
- - Silver Pitchers.
- - Under the Lilaes, 2s. ;.cloth, RUB ENS. Sec Gl'eat Artists.
3s.6d. R\JGGLES, H. J., Shakespeare'a
- - W ork, A StOl'y of Experience, Method, 7s. 6d.
2 vols. in 1, cloth, 3s. 6d. RITSS ELL, G.W. E.,Gladstone.
Stowe (1\1rs.) Pearl of Ou's rsland. See Prime Ministers.
- - Minister's Wooing. - - W. CLARK, Mrs. DineJ'
- - We and OUl' Neighboul's, 2s. Jewels, 2s. 6d.
- - My Wife alld l, 28.
Dodge (Mra.) Huns Bl'Ínker, 01', - - Nelson's.TVonls and Deeds,
The Si! ver Skates, Is.; cloth, 5s. ; 3s.6d.
3s. 6d.; 2s. 6 1. - - Sailo?"s Language, illus.
Lowell (J. R.) My Study Windows. 3s.6d.
Holmes (Oliver Wendell) Guardian - - See also Low's Staudarc.l.
Angel, cloth, 2s. Novels and Sea Stories.
Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a - - W. HOWARD, Prince of
Garden, cloth, 2s. WaZes' Tau?', ilJust. 52s. 6d. and
Stowe (Mra.j Dred, 2s.; cloth gilt, 84s.
3s.6d.
Cllrleton (W.) City Banads, 2 vols. Russia. See Ji'oreign Conntries.
in 1, cloth gi!t, 2s. 6d. Saints and thei?' Symbol8, 38. 6d.
- - Legenda, 2 vola. in 1, cloth SAINTSBURY, G., Eal'l of
gi! t, 28. fid. Derby. See Pl'ime Ministers.
- - ~'arm BalJads, 6d. and 9d.; 3 SAINTINE, Ficciola, 28. 6d.
vols. in 1, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. and 2s. See Low's Standard
- - Fal'm FestivaIs, 3 vols. in 1, Series.
cloth gilt,. 3s. 6d.
- - Farm Legends, 3 vols. in 1, SALISBURY, LORD. SeePrime
cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. Ministers.
C1ienta of D,'. Bernagius, 2 vols. SAMUELS. See Low's Stan-
IIowells (W. D.) Undiscovered dard Series.
Country. SANDARS,Gm'man Prime?', 18.
C1ay (C. M.) Baby Rue. SANDEAU, Seagull Rock, 28.
- - Story of Heleu Troy. and2s.6d. Low's Standard Serie~.
Whitney (Ml'a.) Hitherto, 2 vols.
cloth, 3s. 6d. SANDLANDS, HoU) to Develúp
Vocal Pawe?', I s.
Fawcett (E.) Gentleman of Leisure.
ButIer, Nothing to Wear. SAUER,Eur·opeanCommm'ce,5s.
ROSS, JYLtns, Cantabria, 21s. - - Italian Grammar (Key,
2s.),5s.
ROSSINI, &c., See Great
Musicians. - Spanish Dialogues, 28. 6d.
Rothschilds, by J. Reeves,7s. 6d. - - Spanish G1'ammar' (Rey,
2s.), 5s.
Roughing it aftm' Gold, by Rux,
new edito Is. - - Spanish Readm', new edito
3s.6d.
ROUSSELET. See Low's SAUNDERS, J., Jaspar' Deane,
Standard BGoks. lOs. 6el.
- -- - - ~--
In alI Dejartments of Literature. 27
SCHAACK, Mo J., Anarchy, SHEPHERD, Briti8h Bchool of
16s. PMnting,2nd edito 58.; 8rd edito
SCHAUERMANN, Ornament sewed, Is.
for technioal schools, lOs. 6d. SHERIDAN,Rívals, coI. pIa tos,
SCHERER, Essays in English 52s. 6d. nett; art. pr. 105s. nett.
Literatu"e, by G. Saintsbury, 68. SHIELDS, G. O., Big Game
SCHERR, English Literatur-e, of North Amm'ica, 21s.
bistory, 8s. 6d. - - Oruisings in the Oascades,
SCRILLER'S H'osa, selections 10s.6d.
by Buchheim. Low' s Series 2s. 6d. SHOCK, W. R., Steam Boilel's,
SCHUBERT. See Great Musi- 73s. 6d.
cians. SIDNEY. See GentIe Life
SCHUMANN. See Great Series.
Musicians. Silent Hour. Sec Gentle LHe
SCHWEINFURTH. See Low's Series.
Standard Library. SIMKIN, OU1' Al'mies, plates in
Scientijic Education of Dogs, 6s. imita.tion of water-colour (5 parts
SCOTT, LEADER, Renaissa'nce at Is.), 6s.
of A,.t in Italy, 31s. 6d. SIMSON, Ecuador and the
- - See also lliust. Text-books. Putumayo,', 8s. 6d.
- - SIR GILBERT, Autobio- SKOTTOWE, Hanoverian
biography, 18s. Kings, new edito 3s. 6d.
- - W. B. See Great Artists. SLOA"8E, T. O" HomeExperi-
SELMA, ROBERT, Poems, 58. ments, 68.
SERGEANT, L. See Foreign SMITH, HAMILTON, and
Countries. LEGROS' F"ench Dictiona,'y, 2
Shadow of the Rock, 2s. 6d. vols. 16s., 21s., and 22s.
SHAFTESBURY. See EngIish SMITH, EDWARD, Oobbett, 2
Philosophers. vols.24s.
SHAKESPEARE, ed. by R. G. - - G., AssYl'ia, 18s.
White, 3 vols. 368.; édito de luxe, - - Ohaldean Account of
63s. Genesis, new edito by Sayce, lSs.
--Annalsj Life 9' Wor1c, 2s. - - GERARD. See lliustrated
- - Hamlet, 1603, also 1604, Text Books.
7s.6d. - - T. ROGER. See Illustrated
- - Hamlet, by Karl EIze, Text Books.
12s. 6d. Socmtes. Sec Bayard Series.
- - Hel'oines, by living paint- SOMERSET, Our Village Life,
ere, 105s.; artists' proofs, 630s. 55.
- - Macbeth, with etchings, Spain. See Foreign Countries.
105s. and 528. 6d. SPA YTH, Draught Playel',
- - 80ngs and Sonnets. See Dew edito 123. 6d.
Choice Editione. SPIERS, French Dictiolla1'y,
- - Tamin'g o; the Shl'ew, 2 vols. 185., half bound, 2 vaIs.,
adapted for drawing-room, papel' 218.
wrapper, Is. SPRY. SeeLow'sStand.Library.
28 A Selcct List of Books
SPURGEON, C. H. See STORER, F. H., A g1'icttlture,
Preaohers. 2 vol s. , 25s,
STANLEY, H. 11., Congo, 2 STOWE, EOWIN. See Great
vols. 42 •. and 21s. Artists.
- - ln DaTlcest Africa, 2 vols., - - :URS., Flowers anel Ft'uit
428. f?'om Her Writings, 38. 6d.
- - Emin's Rescue, Is. - - Life •. , her own fVords
- - See also Low's Standard ... Lettel'8 and Original Oomposi-
Library and Low's Standard tion, 158.
Books.
- - Life, told for boys and
START, Exe1'cises in ~Mensu1'a girIa, by S. A. Tooley, 58" new
tion, Sd. edito 2s. 6d. and 2s,
STEPHENS, F. G., Celebmted - - Little Foxes, cheap edito
Flernish and F'I'ench Pictures, Is.; 4".611,.
with notes, 28s. - - Minister's Wooing, Is,
- - See also Great Artists. - - PeaTl of 01'1"11 I sland,
ST ERNE. See Bayard Series. 3s. 6el. and Is.
STERRY, J. ASHBY, Cucumber - - UncZe Tom's Cabin, with II
Ch'I'onicle .• , 58. 126 new illust. 2 vols. 18s.
STEUART, J. A., L etters to - - See also Low's Standard
Living Authors, new edito 28. 6d. ; N oveIs anilLow's Standard Series,
'édito de luwe , lOs. 611,. STRACHAN, J., New Guinea,
- - See also Low's Standard 12s.
Novels. STRANAHAN, F?'enc,h Paint-
STEVENS, J. W., Pmdical ini/,218,
lVo"kings Df the Leather Manu- STRICKLAND, F., Engadine,
factu?'e, illust. 18s. new edito 58.
- - T., Around the lVorlcl on
a Bicycle, over 100 illust. 16s.;
part I I. 16s.
STUTFIELD, El
ri dA through lIforoeco,
Mctghreb,
8~. 6t!.
li
STEWART, DUGALD, Olttlines SUMNER, C., lrIe1noir, new
eeli t. 2 vols. 36s.
of ][o?'al Philosophy, 3 .•. 6d.
ST'oCKTON, F. R., Casting Sweden and N01'1ca!J. Ses
Foreign Countries.
Away of ][,'s. Lecks, Is.
- - The Dusantes, a sequeI, Is. S!/lvanu8 Redivivus, lOs. üd.
ii - - Jllel'1'y Ohanter, 2$. 6d.
- - P81'sonally Conducted,
SZCZEPANSKI, Technical
Literatu?'e, a direetory, 2s.
illnst. by Joseph Pennell, 78. 6d.
TAINE, H. A., Origille.3 ,
r. AncientRégime, Freneh Hevo-
- - Rudder Gmngers Abroacl, lution, 3 vols.; Modern Régime,
28.611,. vol. l. 16s.
- - Squi1'1'el Inn, illust. 6s. TAYLOR, H., English Consti-
- - Story of Viteau, illust. 5s.
..i",.
t ution, 1Ss.
new eeIit. 3s. 611,. - - R. L., Analysís Tables, Is,
- - T7wee BU1'glars, Is, & 2s. - - Chemistry, Is. 6d.
- See also Low's Standard Techno-Ohemical Receipt Book.
Novela. lOs,6à.
In all Dejartments 0/ Lüerature. 29
TENNYSON. See Choice TYSON, Ardic AdventU1'e8, 25s.

Editions. TYTLER, SARAH. See Low's
Ten Years of a Sailor' s Life, Standard N oveIs.
7.<. 6d. - - M. C., A mel'ican Litera-
THA USING, MaU and Beer, ture, vols. I. and I I. 24s.
4.58. UPTON, H., DaÍ11J Farming,
THEAKSTON,British Angling 2s.
Flies, 5s. Valley Oouncil, by P. Clarke, 68.
Thomas à Kempis Birthday- V ANDYCK and HALS. S, e
Book, 3s. 6ct Gren.t Artista.
- - Daily Text-Book, 2s. 6d. VANE, DENZIL, Lynn's 001trt
- - See also Gentle Life Series. Mystery, Is.
THOMAS, BEUTRA, House on - - See also Low's Standard
the ~ ca?', Tale of South D evon, ôS. Novela.
THOMSON, JOSEPH. SeeLow's Vane, Youn.q Si?' Hal'ry, 18s.
Standal' d Library and LolV's VELAZQUEZ. See Gr. Al'ti~ ts .
Standard Novels. - - and MURILLO, by C. B.
- - W., A7gebra, 5s. ; without Curtia, with etchinga, 31s. Ga. nnd
AnslVel's. 4.•. fi el. ; Key, Is. 6d. 63s.
TIIORNTON, W. PUGIN, V.ERE, Sm F., Fighting Veres,
HearJ,s. ana what they teU us, Is. 18s.
THOHODSEN, J. P., Lad and VERNE, J., TVorks by. Ses
Lass, ()s. page 31.
TICKNOR, G .• Memoir, new Vernet anel Dela/·oche. Seo
edit., 2 vola. 21s. Great ArtistR.
TILESTON, MARY W., Daily VERSCHUUR, G., At the An-
Strength. 4s. G I. tipodes, 7s. 6a.
TINTORETTO. See Great VIGNY, Oinq Mars, with
Artists. etcbings, 2 vols. 30s.
TfTIAN. See Great Artists. VINCENT, F., Through and
TODD, Life, by J. E. TodJ., 128. through the T?'opics, lOs. Gd.
TOURGEE. See Low's Stand- - - MRS. R., 40,000 Miles
ard Novele. over LanrJ, and Water, 2 vols. 218.;
TOY, C. H., Jt.clai:;m, 14s . . also 3s. Gel.
Tmcks in Norway, 2s., n. ed. Is. VIOLLET-LE-DUC, Architec·
TRAILL. See Prime Ministers. ture, 2 vols. 31.•• ()a. each.
Tmnsactions of the Hong Kong WAGNER. See Gr. Musicians.
11,fcaical Sor.iety, voI. L 128. 6d. W ALERY, Our Oelebrities,
TROMHOLT, AW'ora B01'ealis, voI. II. part L, 30s.
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Holiday Wanderings Madeira 1892

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Holiday Wanderings Madeira 1892

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HOLIDAY WANDERINGS lN

R.M.S. Seot. [See page 160.

MADEIRA is at the present time so little

adventures, I have added, as an Appendix, a

modation on the road-We prepare for the

Hammock, Hammock.men, and Fare

Cliffs at the entrance to the Ravine of São Vin-

" W HEHE are you going for your holiday this

cient to give one a bad fit of the blues, and

What, then, is he to do? My advice to

mJl11mUm, the accommodation is excellent,

about the island is accomplished. And what

We were a merry little parly that left

the Ta da r, an:! the ship by which we re-

falis cleared, and each boat with its crew was

safely stowed away, the last good-byes were

quiet, religious service held that Sunday

drink caused him to be the victim of al1

play fair1y. Vou shall all be put ashore at

MUCH as we enjoyed the voyage no one was

foamed and tossed, and there an undulating

Sornetime3 four or five dive after the sarne

The Diving Boys.

boys on Lord Mayor's day. For the surn

carne up on the other side, no easy thing

at all times a somewhat difficult operation,

oxen themselves, the boat and its burden are

Funchal Beach on a quiet afternoon.

clark - skinned, ragged, scantily - dressed,

gaudily-painted boats, a host of crippled

bodied of the place. We made quite a show

destruction. No wonder he is so big, so fat;

over, we drove to the hotel in bullock sledges

of two oxen. A boy walks at the head of

andOwas not reunited until the dinner gong

MOONLIGIIT ON THE BALCONY. 23

I would that I had the peri of some

with song in response to the loving touch of

deep but withal such pleasant sadness that,

"Then dared I hail the moment fIeeting,

AFTER breakfast the following morning an

kind of hood to prot eet the traveller from

Hammock, Hammock-men, and Fare.

earried 011 the shoulders of the bearers. The

little sustenance. They are very light1y

gentle, swaying motion induces an almost

ing little or no window space, and crammed

THE BURLINGTON ARCADE.

Some of them bear, for the benefit of the

are grown ln Madeira: peaches, apples,

Governor's palace, a large, semi·castellated

Street Scene, Funchal.

away by the military man of our party-a

"Do they call that drilling?" said he.

perhaps to shoulder his gun. But does he

do not know if those we sa w are a verage

except for a tiny stream, trickling down the

occurred, houses and their inhabitants were

that the Visitor will of his charity pray for

A JOURNEY over to Santa Anna and then on

along the edges of precipices, the sides of

resto They are poorly furnished, and possess

novel and interesting, such an endless variety

tired as he may be at the end of each day,