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NOOR

“ CLEAN
or
UNCLEAN ”

BABI
AHLUWALIA
ON MAKING
IT BIG

Beyond Hijab
MSU × ICS

The South Asian Magazine


like the knots of yarn creating outfits this vision runs along the As a final note to all aspiring
raises on the fabric is what actually lines of seeing these ornate fabrics designers Kshitij says that
adds a one of a kind dimension to across runways and streets. That is the fashion world is certainly
it. If you look at luxury products handmade fabrics meet modern glamorous in front of the camera
the craftsmanship and labor hours silhouettes. but there is much more beyond
that go into making a hand done it. It’s a creative process that
piece brings out the best in it. Life comes to a full circle. Two never halts itself. Keep looking
years ago when Jalori was visiting for inspiration and take breaks to
“If the product is in New York with his wife he came freshen your mind. Work hard, go
beyond what’s expected and chase
across a store in Soho where he
place and if you truly developed a deep desire to sell his the dream.
believe in what you are garments. He strongly manifested
the idea and with the relentless
making, the rest follows help of a friend, many hectic days
to fall in place” and sleepless nights later the brand
was successful in putting out his
collection during NYFW 2022.

The Craft culture of the country Whilst talking about success and
has a wide scope. With his brand making it in the fashion industry Interviewed by: Vibha Arvind (FBM,FIT’23)
he wants to utilize the potential of Kshitij says, “If the product is in Written bIllustration by: Vishwa Joshi (TD,
FIT’23)
handmade fabrics by not limiting place and if you truly believe in Image credits: KSHITIJ JALORI
its use to special occasion wear. By what you are making, the rest https://www.kshitijja lori.com/en-us
integrating them in your everyday everything follows to fall in place”

A pleasant smile and an art in the textiles he creates. 20


years ago when Indian fashion was
a textile designer as the founder
the brand develops its own designs
enthusiastic aura greeted us from
still largely centred around the idea for the weave, the print and the
across the screen. Kshitij is seated
of bridal and festive wear Kshitij embellishments. Once the fabric
at his store in Delhi with a rack of
found the absence of brands that is ready comes in the garment
his designs brightening the space
cater to other niches and hence construction.
with color and the charm of fine
started developing a keen interest
craft. The label ‘ Kshitij Jalori
and desire to fill in these gaps. India holds pride in his textile
Ajmer’ almost speaks for itself
Destiny led to Khsitij taking up heritage and close interactions
giving credits to the roots of the
textile designs in National Institute with artisan communities opened
designer. He spent the first 18 years
of fashion technology, Delhi which doors for the designer in many
of his life wrapped around the
changed the course of his career ways. Today Kshitij works closely
green hills of Ajmer soaking in all
helping him discover the unlimited with the Bananarasi (silk fabrics
the learnings of art and craft from
potentials in the field. with opulent embroidery in gold
school. Art has always been a great
and silver ), zardosi ( and hand
influence in his work. Jalori holds
The brand follows a made from marodi work. The nature of hand
pride in the fact that he brings out
scratch approach to fashion. With crafted textiles and imperfections
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Written by: Kriti Nagar
(CD,FIT’23)
Layouts by: Aastha Rawat
(FBM,FIT’23)
Images by: Vidhi Sarin
(AMC, FIT’23)

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New York is not just a city, it is an emotion. To anybody who moves
to ‘The Big Apple’, an adrenaline rush with excitement and jitters of
nervousness combined, is the most familiar feeling – we will never
forget the day we stepped into this concrete jungle with all our
expectations, dreams and hopes. But what to expect, will it be just like
we imagined or this journey would be full of surprises – we asked the
board members of ICS for a bite on ‘What it takes to survive in NYC’.

“New York City is the one place “It is tough moving to a big city like
that will gracefully welcome any- NYC but it does get better with time. Be
one with open arms but also put it walking on the streets feeling like the
you through your worst night- main character or watching dogs play in
mares—it’s all worth it for the the parks, you will find little things that
character development! All you make you happy. “
need is a good oatmilk chai latte
and a nice pair of heels to take Rachel Liza Raphy 
you through anything this city Editor
throws at you.” 

Aditi Pardeshi 
Vice President

“It can be overwhelming to wit- “NYC to me is about people holding out


ness the dynamism of fashion in elevator doors for strangers, sandwich
NYC- be it in the variety of de- shop ladies remembering our picks and In frame :
signs or staggering scale of busi- petting strangers dogs every time you Aashna Shah (FBM,FIT’26)
ness. New trends come and go stop across streets - finding a community Thea Dhanki (FBM,FIT’26)
every week, but I choose to wear amongst people who are completely un- Rochelle Lobo (FD,FIT’23)
my Indian handloom tunics and related. The awe of skyscrapers will fade Shreya Yadav (FBM,FIT’26)
Styling and layouts by :
stoles, carry an Ikat or Mogra away in a week, the charm of brown- Rachel Liza Raphy (CD,FIT’23)
printed bag with a little Kajal in stone apartments will last a bit longer,
my eyes everyday, simply because but sooner or later you realize that it was
I realise that one doesn’t have to never about Times Square or Central
change to fit in. And that’s one of Park – the only thing you take back and
the many beauties of the city.” cherish in your heart will be the spirit of
New Yorkers, the spirit of New York.
Vibha Arvind
PR Manager Vishwa Joshi

THE GIRL NEXT DOOR


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Try something
unexpected with
your Indian
classics.A
traditional Ajarkh
printed skirt worn
as a strapless midi
dress paired with
a turtle neck and
jumkas.
Prints for the win

Reviving festive
clothes and
fusing them
to your power
dressing. Mirror
worked crop top
with a blazer ,
wide leg jeans and
sneakers.
Statement blouse
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Indian fabrics on
modern trends.
Ajarakh
printed waist belt
to add some desi
flavour to an all
black outfi and a
kundan choker
with pearls to tie it
all together.
Sublte hints

Ditch the pants and


dress it up.
Kalamkari print
short kurti worn as
a dress with a
Khadhi jacket,
winter boots and
a statement silver
choker
Kurti Dress
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Henry Ford is believed to have gold to the sun – there is no system or all that cultures around the world
said ‘“A customer may have a rule on which these associations are have to offer, and add value to
car in any color he desires, so based – they just feel right. Then we build what we create. Design or art, has
long as its black.” which can on metaphors of how gold is pure and a voice, a voice that is heard long
be perceived as his aversion to undisputed, just like the ever-bright sun after the artist is gone – and what
anything but black despite of but silver corrodes to black, something we choose to speak will determine

Color:
consumer demand but it has also similar to the waxing and waning of how the coming generations will
been argued that this decision the moon. remember us.
was purely economic – all Model
T Fords were painted black And it is not just nature that drives these

A Concept of Culture because he wanted to produce


most number of automobiles in
the least amount of time. Black
associations, culture and heritage creates
an equal or more significant impact as
well. The epitome of classical western
paint, at the time was the least aesthetic had been the pristine white
expensive and dried the fastest, sculptures of Greeks and Romans, since
Written by: Vishwa Joshi Color, in its most literal sense, actually To quote the words of Kriti Mehta, allowing Ford to produce a car in centuries and it was only in the mid-
(TSD,FIT’23) colors the way we see the world. Being a 26-year-old who owns a South
Image credits: Vidhi Sarin (AMC, about 90 minutes. nineteenth century that researchers
students of an art and design school, Asian boutique in Auckland, discovered that classical buildings and
FIT’23)
it is highly unlikely that any of us are New Zealand, ‘A google search And we might argue that this itself statues were usually brightly painted.
Layouts by:Rachel Liza Raphy
foreign to how color drives human for “classy aesthetic” leads to stands proof to how the capitalist The discovery came as a shock, but
emotions. Color has meaning, we have mostly neutrals as results — way of living of the West has been the western mindset had already been
all acknowledged that, but color can especially in the last few decades.’ instrumental in decolourising conditioned to associate a high standard
be an international topic of debate, Color disappearing from the the world but one must look into of classical beauty with white.
intertwined with eurocentrism and world soon became a heated the deeper question of where this
corporate culture, comes as a bit of a topic of conversation with ‘The affinity to neutrals comes from? Is Influential people in Western history
surprise. Chromophobia is this debate Rise of the Neutrals’ or ‘Beige it because it wants to nominalize have also reinforced this choice from
that has been taking steadfast strides in Era’ getting linked to minimalism anything and everything that time and again. Wedding dresses in the
the media. being perpetrated as an aesthetic other cultures of the world have west, surprisingly, used to be blue, pink
that is easy to mass produce by adopted and stereotype it as or any colour the bride chooses until
major corporate players. ‘kitsch’– this might be what social 1840, when Queen Victoria choose to
media tells us but I would argue wear a white court dress at her wedding
But is this merely a cancel otherwise. with Prince Albert. Since then, till date
culture’s reaction to minimalism “When it comes to regional color – other than a few exceptions, white has
or is there an authentic argument schemes, colors are driven by become the staple in Western weddings.
being made here after all? three factors: architecture, nature South-east Asia has always had an affinity
and the people who enrich the to colour, it is a part of our culture and
culture,” says Lauren Makk, our history – be it Chinese red, Indian
a designer on The Learning yellow or Bangladeshi green. We have
Channel’s Trading Spaces. “That embraced our choices and so has the
trilogy really drives the way that West. Debating colour is not going to
colors and our lifestyles resolve consumerism, nor is it going to “When it comes to regional
come together.” affect discrimination in any manner. color schemes, colors are
Colour evokes emotions based By micro-analysing everything and driven by three factors:
on the subconscious data in focusing on issues that do not hold any architecture, nature and
our brains based previous significance, what we should rather be the people who enrich the
associations and perceptions of embracing all the diversity that exists culture,”
anything and everything that around us, acknowledge that technology
we have seen around us in our has given us an opportunity to connect -Lauren Makk
lifetime. For examples, silver is with varying perspectives, rather than
often equated to the moon and using the same technology to create
boundaries, why not use it to amalgamate
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I am, as a person, forever learning
-I know what I know but I am much
more open with what I do -I learn
from my community of fashion
-my mother was a designer, had a
flourishing ready-to-wear business
in childrenswear, back in India.
Growing up in the background of
design, I was constantly exposed
to the business -you see when
your parents are creatives and
entrepreneurs, you listen to
stories of making toiles at the dinner
table. It is almost in the ether of how
you grow up.
Growing up in India, embroidery is
an inseparable part of you wears as
well as your juices.
I always think
broader than what
I have, I am ever
learning, ever growing
as a creative individual It was during that time, that I western designers come and show
and I think the day you started interning with Rohit Khosla their wears in India and that is when
stop that is the day (renowned as the Karl Lagerfeld of I decided to apply to the
you don’t evolve. India –we luckily knew him through Fashion Institute of Technology.
family connections). For the first 2 At FIT, I wanted to study fashion
Even back in the day, when I went years of my college life, I was interning design -it was an interesting major
to Lady Shriram college to study there and through him I saw design. but I switched to textiles, which is
business, I was bored out of my My first exposure to fashion was at the also when I met Sachin and he was
mind - every girl there just wanted tender age of 19-20 when he held his cut from a similar fabric as me- his
to get married. first show in New Delhi, I witnessed mother had a pretty flourishing
business as well.
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But we did not want to have our We didn’t really understand the from the north who are very good I guess in a way, we were lucky have got to understand who
own fashion house first, we thought western appetite much until we with beadwork – it was a craft that we were big city kids of a modern you customer is –who you
‘Let us learn from the Big 5 that started living and immersing we could and did translate into progressive India who started are serving, why do they
we love and admire, understand ourselves in the culture, we realized high design. During then, we were catering to the sensibilities of the need your product, who
how they servethe mass so well.’ how the west differs from the east. introduced to Oscar, who was a big western designers here. is actually living in these
But it was not easy – we were too This was a lot of self-determination player in those days, I don’t know clothes that you create. To
overqualified for jobs and had all from our part - finding our own place what he saw in us -I think he saw Back in 1998 we had just started make it big in any design
sorts of roadblock and barriers like as cross-cultured designers. Finding what we still have today, a fire in business with Oscar and 2 or 3 field, you must know your
young students with no guidance, a connect in the industry is tough - our bellies -somebody who loves firms, Sachin was lucky to work market.
mentors or placements – there but it is up to that young kid to find the trade, knows textile, knows with house of Valentino, and that
wasn’t a space for anybody quite like their space as to where they want to design –kids who can actually was the time they were talking In that way I believe, the
us in a way but we were determined serve. We really had to do this on work with the big design house and about bringing back this bag called pandemic enriched us. You see,
kids - Sachin started working with our own – connecting through a set reach out to collaborators in terms the Fendi baguette. So, we had left businesses were always done in
a smaller designer and I eventually of family friends, we worked with of textiles, surface embroidery -the our swatches there with them and the so-called norm -as a fashion
got an internship at DuPont. fantastic karigars from Calcutta who understanding of a trade palette left because we weren’t expecting designer there are things you must
are masters in threadwork and ladies of a new culture. He gave us a free our response but our friend who do - department store, previews,
hand –we would come up with new was their calls us that they selected fashion shows
concepts and he would be like our swatches. So, this was all before –but then we had the opportunity
‘Let’s meet tomorrow, google translate -and we are getting to step back. We put our ear to the
let’s see what u can do’. instructions in Italian over our ground and saw where the customer
factor sheet. is today –that was the learning from
the pandemic.
It was chaotic, we are calling our
friend in Rome to break it down We began looking intelligently
for us to understand it but that did within our data, to find where our
not work out. A few months later, customer is and now, we have more Fashion is brilliant but
I see those beautiful embroideries successes that we had before. One
with a lady called Carrie Bradshaw, must not just work in their own is somebody buying it,
our embroideries –so basically, they philosophy, in order to cater to the is somebody using it,
couldn’t get a hold of us so they market, you must listen to the market living in it,
found another vendor to rip it off– and when that began happening to is she getting married in
all because we didn’t have a proper our brand, we had such joy because
connection in Rome (laughs). But were connecting with people. It was it – this is what we
the business grew and as you grow a lot of learning -Was it fun? NO! It constantly as ourselves
up with the business, working with was scary as hell but we are back in
these big houses over the years, you the flow of things now.
also grow up as an individual and
develop your own point of view- Understanding the headspace of
that is how we started the karigars and the managers,
Sachin and Babi. translating that sensibility and
It is the translation of the craft and emotions to the products that will
ethos onto new documents – by be sold in the other half of the world,
going to museums, learning more it is just that kind of an undertaking.
of different cultures, adapting and
conglomerating that into the craft
– that is where our strength lies. Written by: Vishwa Joshi (TSD,FIT’23)
Fashion, to us, is a little removed Image credits: sachinandbabi.com
from art – it is when people wear it, Layouts by: Prachee Shah (CD, FIT’23)
enjoy it and live in it. If you want to
have a legitimate business, you
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Sarees are the indigenous clothing comes alive in various shades on Temple motifs, stripes, checks, and
of Indian women. Six yards of silk the lustrous Kanchipuram silks. floral buttas are some of the authentic
fabric draped to make a garment. Blue is the color of infinity and a designs that are woven into these
Kanchipuram silk sarees in representation of vastness. Lord sarees. Kanchipuram sarees usually
particular, are known for their rich Vishnu is represented in a dark have wide and contrasting borders.
gold borders, authentic designs, shade of blue which characterizes The motifs and designs on the sarees
and dense fabric in contrast colors; most of His incarnations — the are inspired by the sculptures and
a custom that is over 150 years of color of the sky and the ocean on scriptures of temples surrounding
age is absolutely hand woven from which he reclines. Yellow as a color the district. Other common motifs
processed silk yarn and Zari - a is strongly entrenched into the on walls were inspired by natural
silver silk string covered in gold culture and mentality in India. The elements like leaves, birds and
tone. Kanchipuram sarees are combination of black with different animals. The intricacy of patterns,
prestigious for their excellence and tones in a smaller amount is viewed the richness of colors and purity of
nobility. The saree, when worn or as a protection against enmity and the zari define the value of the saree.
gifted, is inherently connected with destruction.
fortune. My grandmother boasts a
closet of hundred-plus sarees woven

Kanchipuram
out of pure gold yarn and silk.

The colors you adorn on the saree


have so much more beyond its visual
appeal. The history of colors that is
seen in the Kanchipuram saree is
carved out of a lifelong fascination
Written by:Rajagopal Raghunath (CD, FIT’23) with South India’s traditions and
Layouts by: Vibha Arvind (FBM, FIT’23) social norms. Araku, is a distinctive
Image credits: Megana Karkada Suresh (NIFT, chennai ) color lying between red and
maroon, is unique to Kanchipuram
and an absolute favorite choice for
The temple town of Kanchipuram
the bridal saree. Green is fondly
nestles next to the Palar river in south
known as the ‘color of life,’ and it
India. The fortified center of the
town greets you with the fragrance
of sandalwood and the melodious
sounds of the temple bells. I visited
the town during the magical time
of monsoon. I immersed myself
in architectural beauty and serene
spirituality.
As I took a stroll next to the largest
temple in the settlement dedicated
to Lord Vishnu, I stumbled upon the
houses and stores of several weavers
working on traditional looms
creating stunning Kanchipuram
silk sarees. Each place I visited
was a storehouse of rich gold and
silk garments known as sarees
stacked upon racks of shelves and
cupboards, each with a different
color and pattern.
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FASHION SCAPES
There is so much attention to detail
and fine craftsmanship that goes
into making these. Unlike machine-
made fabrics these textiles can

A living wage
take over months to complete. The
process begins with dyeing silk and
letting it rest for a few days to dry.
The colorful bundle is warped and
spun on the spinning wheel. The Written by: Vishwa Joshi (TSD,FIT’23)
hand spun yarn is woven on looms
using shuttles that weave the warp
and weft threads of the silk together.
The traditional Indian saree is no
longer limited to silk and handwoven A Computer-aided design process is
textiles. Georgettes, satin, lace, capable of achieving photorealism
and even velvet have taken over on Kanchipuram sarees. Designers
this 6 yard drape business. Even are experimenting with pastel colors
with advancements like these,
Kanchipuram just like many other
and new motifs. The textile, which
was once commonly used for only Documentary Recommendation
Indian weaves, has reserved its spot drapes, is now used in other styles
as the finest and most elite choice of garments like gowns, pantsuits,
for special occasions like weddings. lehengas etc as well In 2013, when the Rana Plaza culture boomed like never before
collapsed in Bangladesh, it drove and greenwashing was the route
Andrew Morgan to travel to 13 fast fashion brands took to escape
countries and examine the lives of from the mass backlash. But after
low-wage workers in the garment all this, has anything changed at the
industry who were the victims of grassroot level after all?
the tragedy. This project came into On the 8th anniversary of the
being as one of the finest fashion infamous incident, Morgan once
documentaries the industry has again, came together with Livia
ever seen, which is till date being Firth, co-founder and creative
widely broadcasted in fashion director of Eco-Age – to form a
schools around the globe – it is short film that is a spiritual sequel
the documentary all of us have of the same. ‘FASHIONSCAPES: A
been told to watch, to understand Living Wage’ is shorter but it hits
the environmental, social and precisely – the point made across
psychological impact of the industry remains the same – Who pays the
whose future lies in our hands – true cost of the cheap clothes we
without even mentioning its name, buy? – its predecessor examined it
I think the name must have already from consumerism, mass media,
popped in your head – ‘The True disease, pollution and even global
Cost’ capitalism, A Living Wage is more
Released at the Cannes Film specific and strives to focus on a
Festival in 2015, it sent shockwaves single point – the people. It is hard-
throughout the industry and an hitting and moving at the same
era of awareness began, post which time, watching how next to nothing
‘sustainability’ became the new has change even after more than
buzzwords. An array of new ‘eco- half a decade of awareness – the
friendly’ labels came to life, ‘recycle’ concluding lines are particularly
became the new mantra, thrift store brilliant it this is a must watch,
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Interviewed by: Vibha Arvind (FBM,FIT’23) and Raisa Rafique (FBM,FIT’23)
Written by: Aditi Pardeshi (FBM, FIT’23)
Layouts by: Aastha Rawat ((FBM, FIT’23)

Raisa interview

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Brooklyn: Eat Namkeen $$ illa Sandwhi
Loved by everyone and heavily popular on social media, Tikkav ch
this recent opening of a twist on an American favorite
with the flavorful zing of Indian culture is a stellar

The Taste of a Modern India combination to have when you’re tired of eating plain
old fried chicken. Think fried chicken but a hundred
times better with mint chutney! Their loaded Dhamaka
fries will have you ordering another plate right as you
New York City is often described as a melting pot of cultures from take the first bite! Their signature tikka sauce will have
all around the world. Queens– the World’s borough– is home to a you licking your fingers but worry not, their restroom is
wide variety of cuisines from the best halal street carts to the most fully decked out with Bollywood tunes and a disco ball for
top-notch traditional Slovak restaurants. Brooklyn– the new “Manhat- maximum enjoyment!
tan”-- has its own array of trendy eateries. an
n kulfi milk tea dd
hamaka fries!!!
Indian cuisine is one of the most flavorful and vibrant cuisines. Aro- pa
Aditi Pardeshi (FBM, FIT’24)
matic spices in curries, soft and pillowy naans, and a rainbow of colors Layouts by: Anvi Mangalmurti
and fresh vegetables all come together to form the beautiful art of (CD, FIT’23)
Indian cooking. Illustrations by:Vedha Chodhagam Long Island: Pyo Chai $$
(FD, FIT’26) What do you get when you cross masala chai and boba?
Let’s dip our spoon right into the top places you can visit to get a taste Absolute heaven! This small Indian bubble tea joint in
of our very own modern India. Stewart Manor has the best selection of Indian drinks
mixed with boba tea. Get a variety of drinks such as
Kulfi Milk tea to Rooh Afza milk tea or stick to the
basics with a refreshing mango green tea! Choose
Dessert K from a variety of toppings such as Brown Sugar
ulfis! Boba, basil seeds, mango popping jelly, lychee jelly,
!
or a scoop of mango, malai, or falooda kulfi!
Manhattan: Junoon $$$$
Looking for a place to splurge on Michelin-star
food? Look no further than just a four-minute
walk from the Flatiron building. Junoon offers super spic yyy
a sophisticated and beautifully plated array of Queens: Usha Foods $
Indian food with an updated addition to classic Named one of the best places to
Indian dishes. Choose from a variety of chaats with boba!! get Indian street snacks, this
as your appetizer, followed by vibrantly flavored long standing and family run
meat and vegetable dishes. End your meal with a fast food restaurant has held
dessert reminiscent of your mother’s rice pud- the heart of families all over
(th ding or take a lick at a sorbet tasting. With any Long Island, even the country!
eP
aan combination, you are sure to find your meal From their delicious chaats to
L ea not only Instagrammable but also worthy of a freshly made mango lassi, Usha
f an
d Sa Michelin star. Foods can appetize any of your
ffron
p ops food-fanatic desires. They offer a
pers are my
onal Da deep selection from Punjabi food,
favou hi P to South Indian, and even Gujarati
rites) uri Chaat sweets.

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As the people started coming in, all dressed in ethnic but Aastha, as she sips her mango lassi, after having stayed on
contemporary attires, the excitement was building up for her toes the entire evening, says with a smile “I wouldn’t lie,
what is to come. With a classical Bharatanatyam perfor- it was an absolute roller coaster - the last week especially, I
mance by Vidhatri, had my own ups and downs but with people that I could
rely on - we managed to pull it together. At the end of the
we kick-started the evening followed by the crowd break-
day, when I look at these faces, it makes all of the effort
ing into freestyle dancing. A flash-mob by members of ICS,
worth it. Being able to bring people together and to make
dandiya, garba and a tik-tok reel, the crowd then dived into
them feel at home in a foreign country, I am glad I was able
the delicious Indian thaali with gulab jamuns, something
to create this joy.”
they had all craved for months. The international students
services put up a stall and applied mehendi tatoos for the
guests. The feeling of being close to home was completed
with having mango lassi in the breezeway - let’s just admit As is customary, Indian Cultural Society hosts the annual cel-
it, lassi on the streets of NYC wearing our coats has a charm ebration of Diwali Night at FashionInstitute of Technology.
of its own. This year, under the able guidance of Professor Rajasekhar
Vangapaty and support from Student Life, especially Jordan
and International Student Services with enthusiastic Cultur-
al Fellows - Aastha Rawat, the president of ICS led the team
in organizing the gala. Dubinsky Dining Hall was trans-
formed into a radiant clique with glittering lights and floral
arrangements - coupled with Bollywood hits on roll with DJ
Ahvik and Indian dinner thanks to .Honest, New York - the
night was all set for a perfect Indian fest.

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