During my childhood I used to surf in Pichilemu specifically on the beach of Punta Lobos, one day while practicing

the tide rose causing swells that did not allow to leave towards the shore. I started swimming on the board hoping
to get ashore. I became very nervous which caused a wave to sink me hitting rocks in the depths of the sea. I hurt
my back and hands trying to contain the blow, luckily a few meters away were other surfers who helped me out of
the strong eddies caused by the water.