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Harry’s Cosmeticology
Harry’s Cosmeticology
Eighth Edition

Edited by Martin M. Reiger, Ph.D.

Chemical Publishing Co., Inc.

Chemical Publishing Co., Inc., 743 Western Avenue, Gloucester, MA 01930
www.chemcial-publishing.com
www.chemicalpublishing.net

© 2000, by Chemical Publishing Co., Inc.

All rights reserved. 8th edition, 2000
This book is protected by copyright. No part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system
or transmitted in any form or by any means; electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

ISBN 0-8206-0372-4

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Harry, Ralph Gordon, 1908-

[Cosmeticology]
Harry’s cosmeticology-8th ed. Volume 1/edited by Martin M. Rieger.
p.cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 0-8206-0372-4
1. Cosmetics. I. Title: Cosmeticology. II. Rieger, Martin, M., 1920- III. Title.
TP983 H32 2000
668’.55-dc21
00-035900

Made in the United States of America

Contents

Foreword vii
List of Contributors by Chapter x
Alphabetical List of Contributors xi
Chapter Contributors xiii

PART ONE: THE SUBSTRATES 1

1 Skin 3
2 The Hair 39
3 The Nails 71
4 Anatomy and Physiology of Ocular Tissue 79
5 The Mouth and Oral Care 87

PART TWO: FORMULATION APPROACHES AND

REQUIREMENTS 109

6 Fundamentals of Cosmetic Product Development:

Getting Started 111
7 Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetic Products 129
8 Intellectual Property Issues: Patents and Trade Secrets 175

PART THREE: COMMON INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES 185

9 Surfactants 187
10 Cosmetic Emulsification 211
11 Rheological Additives 235
12 Antioxidants 247
13 Moisturizers and Humectants 261
14 Preservation 273
15 Use of Botanicals in Cosmetics 305

v
vi Contents

16 Specialty Lipids 323

17 Aerosol Technology 333

PART FOUR: FORMULATION AND PERFORMANCE 349

18 Skin Care Products 351

19 Miscellaneous Skin Care Products: Skin Bleaches and Others 393
20 Sunscreens 415
21 Antiperspirants and Deodorants 437
22 Antiacne and Oily Skin Products 459
23 Face, Body and Hair Masks and Scrubs 471
24 Skin Cleansing Products 485
25 Shaving Preparations 501
26 Color Cosmetics 523
27 Nail Polishes 573
28 Specialty Nail Products 589
29 Shampoos 601
30 Hair Setting Products 635
31 Hair Colorants 669
32 Permanent Waving, Hair Straightening and Depilatories 695
33 Oral Care Products 725
34 Safety and Performance 755

PART FIVE: PRODUCTION 785

35 The Manufacture of Cosmetics 787

36 Packaging 875
37 Stability 889

Index 901