Dear members,

I was pondering over for the topic for our regular AA/Esky writing when I read Mr. Alden’s “summer
chic” thread. That…along with the summer days made me want to expound on this topic of summer
time dressing. I was fortunate enough to find a very interesting (& incredibly detailed) article about
summer-wear along with its original text. It was a tedious task to type all the info but I am happy at the
final result. The hard part was Not the article itself…it was the pictures. I figured, if I were to type a long
detailed guide it will always be prone to being somewhat boring….Unless it accompanied some well
rendered pictures. So the hunt began. More than often I run into the obstacle of finding only black and
white or mono-chromatic illustrations that accompany their text. While, those still being perfectly
gorgeous…can never compare with their full color counterparts, which are on par over much else. So I
had to delay this post over and over until I was fully satisfied with my search for color illustrations.
Fortunately it all turned out well…at least in my humble opinion. I will let you fine gents decide on the
rest.

Here is the link for Mr. Alden’s summer chic thread. Please view that also.

Summer chic [link removed]

Before we begin on this wonderful journey…let me mention that this appeared some-time early spring of
39’ in AA/Esky issues (in Esky maybe a bit later than AA, which was quarterly). Nevertheless, it was
almost a pattern like behavior that the items/articles of interest spotted on cruises earlier during the
year…mostly appeared later in the year during the summer seasons at Palm Beach and other fashionable
Southern resorts. In fact their editors often joked that the outfits presented for cruise wear are perfectly
adaptable for summer / resort wear, if traveling was not within your means.

So here it is…straight from the source the (almost) definitive guide for essential cruise / resort-wear.
These days most of it can be effectively used for summer wear in cities and will put you a clear step and a
half ahead of anyone else who claims to be stylish.

All the text in Italics is from the original article. The rest is my commentary. Click on the bold numbered
"sketch" headings for original black & white drawings.

Time was when vacation, to the average office worker, meant two weeks off with pay during the dog
days, with a choice of spending it at the mountains or the shore, and plenty glad to get that. But
advertising, with its insidious means of spoiling us for anything but the best, has extolled the virtues of
the winter vacation to a point where we have even begun to feel a little sorry for the poor chap who must
spend his holiday lying under the summer sun. Not for him the “glamour-laden breath of exotic ports”—
“the potent spell of old-world villages”—alas, not even a casual reference to Sloppy Joe’s or Dirty Dick’s,
or whatever high spot is included in the itinerary of the luxury liner destined to enliven his
conversational sallies.

And so the mid-winter exodus is on. And, strangely enough, the cruise does manage to live up to its
optimistic build-up, which is why we have elected, in this second of its correct clothing series, to analyze
the fundamental requirements of the cruise wardrobe.

The first consideration is to get you on the boat looking like a seasoned wayfarer, and whether you’re
getting away from it all for a four-day jaunt or a ‘round the world cruise, your getting away outfit is
substantially the same.
A California weight* polo coat of camel’s hair or, alternatively, a tweed coat; a soft felt hat, a single or
double breasted grey flannel suit (this might carry chalk stripes); brown calf or reverse calf shoes; a soft
colored shirt; a striped or figured tie, and just to complete the picture a pair of gloves.

* Read light weight. This is one of the more unusual references to the western state of California. Usually
they were quite reluctant to mention anything within the vicinity of Hollywood. Remember, these were
the 30s when everything ever stylish (in US) came from NY or upper Eastern states (which in turn were
heavily influenced by the English styling) Not anywhere else.
From summer of 37’

This is your color representation for the first sketch. Shown here is an SB peak lapel 2 button flannel suit
in medium weight light grey shade. Optimo crown Panama hat, reverse calf shoes, lightweight shirt in
blue, dark blue colored foulard tie and a camel hair topcoat completes the outfit. Note the zero-break on
pants. This illustration is in complete accordance with their recommended resort wear list. You may
forgo the peak lapel and opt for the customary notch lapels. However, peak lapels are indeed a stylish
detail.
Now you’re on the boat. The bon voyage boys have departed, you’re wondering where they hide the bar,
and who is the lovely thing with all the orchids. You’re off—but first this is what you should be preparing
to un-pack:

For a short cruise (four days to a week), you’ll want a tweed sports jacket, a pair of grey, white or fawn
flannel slacks, and a tweed cap. This is for wear abroad ship. In addition to the suit you’ve worn to the
boat you might take a suit of Palm Beach cloth, or synthetic fabric* for ports of call in the tropics. Three
shirts, a couple of sports shirts in lisle, cotton or wool, and a sleeveless or long-sleeved sweater for cool
days on deck will prove adequate.

• Nine times out of ten they refer to Rayon blends in combination with silk, cotton or linen.
Here is a color representation of something that closely resemble the outfit described above in sketch 2.
This is from Early 36’.

This is a gabardine 2-button jacket (weight around 11-13 oz), which can be part of a suit or separate worn
with white button-down shirt, red foulard tie, grey flannel pants, combination brown & white shoes,
white pocket square, and an Optimo crown panama hat completes the outfit. Noteworthy articles here
are the cut of the jacket along casual “soft” lines which co-ordinates well with the full cut of the pants.
Observe the shoulder line and the lighter colored socks. On shoes, carefully note the elongating effect.

Three pairs of shoes will cover a multitude of activities—the shoes in which you came aboard; rubber or
crepe-soled shoes in white buck, brown buck or combination saddle (you may substitute colored canvas
if you like) to prevent you from falling on your face on slithery decks, and finally patent pumps or patent
monk front shoes* for evening wear. You’ve taken your dinner jacket, and since formal wear abroad is
on the informal side, this is a double breasted model, in mid-night blue.**
You will wish, if you haven’t taken it, that you had brought an extra white dinner jacket, with black
lightweight dress trousers in the same material as the jacket. With these two outfits wear soft shirts—silk,
broadcloth or pique (Marcella) with a soft or stiff white turn over collar. Contrary to a prevalent theory it
is not incorrect to dress the first night out, but it is not customary.

*This use of monk front as semi-formal evening shoes was Only recommended for cruise wear, and only
as an alternative, as mentioned above. The most correct foot-ware for formal evenings is plain tip/front
oxford or pumps. Pumps can be in calf or patent leather.

** This must be clearly understood once and for all that a double breasted dinner jacket is less formal
than a customary SB peak lapel DJ (when worn with a correct black tie vest). Analogous to the formality
of a 3-pc SB suit & a 2 piece DB, where 3-pc SB is more formal of the two, similarly, the dinner jacket is
no different. So, a DB dinner jacket is a notch less formal than its SB counterpart (worn with a vest)
NOT more. Since a vest is never worn with DB dinner jacket there is no need for us to discuss its
respective formality.
Much has been written about the “correct” black-tie attire and other members have explained it much
better, hence no need for me to go into that any further.

Here is the color representation of Sketch 3. From early 36’ here is a DB DJ with satin faced lapels.

Observe the width & shape of the lapels. Note that this is worn with both button fastened (middle and
lower). In gent’s hands is the light weight camel coat prescribed above in sketch 1. It can be of covert
cloth also as another option.

Of course you haven’t forgotten that you will want to bring your bathrobe or a terry robe—you’ll need
it—especially around the swimming pool. And that goes for the swimming trunks too, knitted or cloth, as
you will.
One sizeable piece of luggage should take all the foregoing, and we’re not going into the underwear
question for two very good reasons. One is that you know how often you change your underwear and
nothing we could say would even make you change your mind. The other is that we (AA/Esky) never
report anything that we haven’t actually seen worn.*

* This is of paramount importance that AA/Esky never presented anything out of their imagination but
only what was observed. At least they strictly claimed that to be the case. Quite contrary to the designer /
fashion magazine mentality of today.
Here is a color illustration of Sketch 4 maybe even more stylish. From 36’. (Probably the hardest picture
for me to find.)

Ribbed swimming trunks, with colored waistband, light weight robe with contrasting lining, cuffs and
lapels. This beautiful robe is a direct derivative (in terms of styling) from the smoking jacket or 3-quarter
length cocktail jacket. Those, however, were always worn at semi-formal occasions at home or club and
were quite often in velvet. Note the similar lapel & cuff schematics.
 The long cruise requires a wardrobe similar to that for the short cruise, but well amplified. You’ll need
two or three odd sports jackets, additional pairs of shoes, a dozen shirts, and a variety of slacks.

A flannel blazer and a colorful scarf strike a note on board, and will be useful upon various occasions on-
shore, such as at the beach club.
Here is something truly worth looking. A color illustration for sketch 5. This is from Spring of 38’ in
Bermuda.

The maroon blazer on the left is a classic 2 button SB model of homespun tweed with patch pockets and
brass buttons, worn with fine white doeskin trousers…a common sighting for Bermuda back
then….brown and white straight tipped shoes, and a white foulard scarf worn over a light weight crew-
neck shirt of cotton lisle.

This outfit is perfectly correct for the breakfast on board or at resorts, not to mention for an early set of
tennis as well.

I remember a question posted by a gentleman elsewhere, who was concerned about the fact that green
or red blazers may end up looking too much like the uniforms of the serving crowd (at resorts or hotel).
Now how can a person wear these two time-honored colors yet still be distinguishable from the servers?

Observe the gent with the red blazer on carefully. One look at it, and I am sure you will agree…there
isn’t even the lightest doubt that the gent could ever be mistaken for the serving/hotel crowd. Why you
will ask…naturally it’s the collective whole of the ensemble not to mention presented in front of a
leisurely background.
The single most discriminating item (from the uniformed types) here is the use of foulard scarf! The
jacket it self is interesting in that it has only one button at the sleeve (a mark of in-formal jackets back
then) and as such is different from the 4 button RTW mass produced jackets of today. Next are the
trousers, which are of white color but can be perfectly well of grey or khaki, beige, tan variety…another
differentiating aspect for you to consider. Finally we have the shoes…a no-brainer for anyone…no hotel
chain will ask their staff to wear combination shoes. Pure white buck can be substituted here as
well…without much trouble. Observe the chisel toe on the shoes above…a very interesting note.

So as a collective whole…the outfit is remarkably simple and yet elegant. This should give you some
ideas to start with. Other options may include the use of a rather colorful pocket square or you may
change the styling of the jacket itself by the addition of a bi-swing plate…maybe even a half belted back.

The other suit in the picture above is a 4 button DB (with lapels rolled to bottom button) with patch
pockets in the (then popular) Burma shade. A light green oxford button-down collar shirt and India
madras tie in green reddish motif, casting a predominantly brown hue, liven the sedate tone of the suit.
The shoes are reversed calf in monk front model and planter’s shape Panama hat wards off the midday
sun with its wider brim. We will come back to this outfit in a while.

Note the use of now famous button-down collar shirt & DB suits combination. Carefully observe the
setting, the fabric, the cut of the suit and you will realize that it’s a cleverly smart combination for
dressing. This same combo of course was an all time favorite of Fred Astaire, who used it thoroughly
with his city / town suits and always appeared resplendently correct mainly because such was his style.
Another smart idea is to use the button-down shirt with your SB 3pc town or country suiting in darker
colors. For some strange reason the combination of a 3-pc and button down shirt always appeals to me
very much.

However, I would highly recommend that before indulging in this lost practice (town suiting with
button-down shirts); you must learn to fully appreciate the respective formality of a 3-pc suit and that of
the button down collar. Once you have done so, this combination will certainly appeal to your fancy
more than if you were merely copying it because somebody else wore it like that.
Moving along…

Deck games are played in light-weight slacks.

Now a color representation of the above mentioned sketch. This is from 35’ winter-36’ cruise wardrobe.

For games, a lisle sport shirt with horizontal stripes in black and white, a silk blue & white kerchief and
red rubber soled buck shoes. Note the black solid collar on the shirt, though it can be of the same striped
fabric also. Another interesting outfit that was observed is the use of hounds tooth pattern shirt in similar
style. I am confident to say that those are probably a lot harder to locate these days than the striped ones.
For yet another option you may opt for the full or short sleeved regular shirt (full buttoned closure)
carrying a similar striped pattern.
In this above picture note the use of double pleats and the absence of a belt. Also noteworthy is their
position at the waist where they are worn.
Another illustration to look at is this below. From early winter35-36 era.

Over here we have light blue and black Herringbone pattern polo shirt of light wool worn with grey
flannel slacks, pork pie hat of light weight felt, and brown and white golf shoes. This version can also be
worn in a regular full sleeved model. Note the presence of pleats and the absence of a belt (no loops).

On a longish cruise there will be days when you’ll be grateful that we reminded you to slip a raincoat into
your bag. In addition to your regulation midnight blue evening kit you should have a tropical dinner
jacket.
The polo or tweed coat in which we sent you abroad is right for deck wear, right over evening clothes
(see black DJ picture above), and right for cooler weather at ports of call…you can’t go wrong in it as far
as a coat is concerned.
A color picture for above mentioned DJ from winter 35-36’.

The most interesting point in this illustration is the use of white silk shirt and ribbed silk faced lapels on
the jacket instead of the customary self-faced. The most time-honored and best recommended styling is
indeed with self faced lapels and with color being an off-shade of white rather than pure white. However,
both are perfectly correct.

This topic of white DJ was addressed in another thread with detail. Kindly see the link below to be
directed to that thread.

For cruising in the hot sun, colorful beach slacks and shirt and shorts outfit in bold colors (blue, wine,
green etc.); for cruising on cool days, the more sweaters the merrier, sports shirts in wool, cotton and
lisle, and your flannel slacks.
This above mentioned is a “beach suit” which is basically a sports shirt (often cut similar to a jacket) and
pants cut from the same light weight fabric.
Below is the color illustration from mid-summer of 38’.

This is the outfit imported then from Monte Carlo, and was described by their editors as being of the
very best taste in Beach fashions. It started appearing in fashionable circles sometime mid-30s and from
then onwards gained massive support from others as well. This is of the washable fabric with shirt being
sung at the waistband creating a subtle blousy effect, combination brown & white Norwegian model
moccasins with white part being of buck / suede. Note that the pants are plain front with no belt
loops…& therefore no belt present. Pants have the natural turn-over, which basically means are straight
hem but folded over rather than carrying permanent cuffs. Pocket Square in shirts pocket is maroon
foulard.

Other items are The Hawaiian cotton swim trunks in original native coloring and pattern, an unusual
light weight necker-tie in a marine design, and goat skinned sandals observed at various fashionable
southern resorts.

Many ports of call in South America are metropolitan cities and these call for ordinary business clothes—
you’ll find your flannel suit, felt hat and brown shoes fill the bill perfectly.
Formal evenings in these cities find the tailcoat in evidence. The Riviera, between November and April,
demands spring clothing—lightweight tweeds and flannels. Gabardine, seersuckers and cotton suits are
all good when you hit the tropics.

Now here is where we will hark back to the Bermuda picture with red blazer above. The suit on the right
side; a DB 4 button patch pocket should fit the bill here and will provide you with all your sartorial
needs.
Another option that you have is the use of an SB model in light weight fabric maybe even silk. Kindly see
[this link] below to observe this other outfit. [link removed]

This same color scheme appeared over and over again for proper resort / cruise suiting.
In Hawaii and South Seas, clothing of linen, white drill and Palm Beach are in order.

We haven’t mentioned lightweight headgear because if you couldn’t resist the cruise catalogue how
could you resist buying a panama in the Canal Zone? And if Jamaica has called so will a floppy Jippi
Jappa*; and the natives of Nassau weave hats from the braids of coconut tree. You may even come back
to astound family with a wide-brimmed porous straw with a colorful puggree band—and why not? If
you’ve ever had a yen to wear a cork sun-helmet, here’s your chance—pick it up at any one of the little
local general stores in the West Indies.

Jippi-Jappa: Made from the leaves of a palm like tree, which yield fibers that are plaited into hats, which
are now-a-days almost extinct…at least in US.

A wardrobe trunk isn’t essential, as most of the liners have adequate closet space. Two or three suitcases
are usually sufficient.
Under the heading of incidental information, it should be mentioned that the travel wise usually make a
point of unpacking and arranging their clothing in closets as soon as they arrive on board the ship. This
is common sense for the traveler under any circumstances and a special bit of forethought on the part of
the voyager, since pressing expenses are apt to run comparatively high abroad ship. A corollary
injunction is to take along sufficient linen to last you for as much of the duration of the trip as is feasible,
since laundering is also expensive.

When visiting ports of call you will be well advised to think twice before purchasing every item that
happens to strikes your fancy. It isn’t the first cost—it’s the upkeep, since there is a taxable duty on
incoming ships.

Following is standard tipping practice: Cabin steward, $5.00 or more if he has surpassed himself; bath
steward (if you haven’t a private bath) $2.50; dinning room steward, $5.00 to $7.00; chief steward, $2.50;
wine steward, $1.50 ; deck steward, $1.50; head bar man (depending upon his services) $2.50; and if they
pass the hat for the crew, throw in $1.00. These apply to a cruise of approximately two-weeks—apply pro
rata rates to a longer or shorter cruise. If you want to change currency before putting in at ports of call,
see the purser.

If you leave your shoes outside your cabin at night you’ll find them there in the morning—but cleaned or
polished. Don’t attempt to lunch in the dinning room in deck clothes—either have your luncheon served
on deck or slip on a jacket and cover your Adam’s apple with a neckerchief. And don’t forget…sun-
glasses, sun-oil, camera, a bathing bag, shoe-horn, field glasses, fountain pen, brush and comb, hair
lotion, talcum powder, and a present for Aunt Emma. Aloha oe!

So there you have it. I must confess to being totally astonished by their recommended tipping practices.
Let us not forget that these prices were in 30s.
Last but not least... seriously consider this illustration from Nassau. Timeline is early 39' crusie season

This should provide you with a whole different venue to look at. This suit is of 3 button grey flannel
(light weight around 11-13 oz) and is nothing short of a revelation. Note the use of shiny nickel / white
pearl buttons! This idea cribbed from a blazer was best recommended for lightweight resort/cruise
suiting. The green oxford shirt has a widespread attached collar, worn with an India madras tie in bar
shape (recently introduced then). Horizontal striped wool hose, brown and white crepe-soled shoes and
reddish foulard motif handkerchief complete the accessories. Shoes can be of red leather soles, which are
more formal than rubber soles, which in turn are a notch dressier than crepe soled ones. Coconut straw
hat is native inspired with wide “puggree” band.

Note the single button on the sleeves and the fact that this is a true 3 button suit with flap pockets. This
combination of medium grey and light green creates a very soothing color combination. The jacket of
course can be used perfectly as a separate to be worn with white flannel trousers. You can keep the rest
of this outfit the same.
On the right is something now, truly historic; a mesh pullover shirt, fresh (back then) from Riviera worn
with moss green trunks. This takes us back to the good-old-days when shirtless bathing was still
prohibited at many public beaches and pools.

Finally few side notes…

All of this is presented as a guide-line for you. Kindly keep in mind that it would be rather silly to expect
anyone to copy the styles of 30s as they were for resort wear of today. That was then. However, what this
guide should do is provide you with a base line or a median to start with. No matter how much you
deviate from it, you will have something to go back to as to how these articles of clothing were worn back
in the days. You can use these & modify them to your own personal liking and that is where your
personal style is most needed.

There is a lot more to it (summer / cruise / resort wear) than what can probably be covered here but alas
I am tired typing! I think this should be sufficient for the time being.

Sincerely
e-tutee

Edit
A new Illustration (the last one) has been added making it all 10.

If you look at the Bermuda (red blazer) picture you will see that the gent with the db suit is wearing a
panama hat…referred to as the “plantation” or “planter’s style hat by AA/Esky. Now in reality a
“planter’s” hat is usually with a much wider and not to mention slightly different brim style. The hat in
the picture appears to be the regular 2.5” wide brim, maybe 2 5/8” at most…where as you can expect the
planter’s style panama hat to be at least 2 7/8” or 3” wide at the brim in order to properly avoid the sun
rays. Nevertheless, my job (if it is as such) to present these with most accuracy….and hence the
discrepancy.

It was brought to my attention by our lounge member Dopey. Many thanks for that.