The Rise of Modern British Perfumery Columns

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by Nicola Thomis (/news/author/Nicola-Thomis/)
04/03/20 23:37:48 ( 18 comments )
Hello timeshow
When one considers countries with grand traditions of fragrance, France and Private messages
/misc.php?section=
Italy tend to spring to mind. Great Britain, however, is likely to be quite far pmpage=inbo
down anyone's list of great fragrance-producing nations. Whist it may have
taken us a while to catch up with our sophisticated friends over the Channel, My Prole (/mem
/1661791/
British perfumery is nally in the ascendant, with a tranche of innovative
houses putting this island nation rmly on the perfume map.
Today I am
wearing
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yourself!
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Pardon
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by montgomery99
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Milk
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by Sweet69
2 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

We need to look further back than one might imagine to nd the start of the
modern British perfumery tradition, much of which grew out of the
gentlemen’s grooming industry of the 18th Century.
Floris of London (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Floris.html) lays

claim to the title of “Oldest English retailer of fragrance”, having been
established around 1730 and still operating from its original Jermyn Street
location in London today. If there is one thing the British love, it is a sense of
history and lineage, which we equate with quality, timelessness, and
desirability. All of which Floris has in abundance. The Floris store even
houses a small museum, which is well worth a visit. It showcases some of
the brand’s signicant archive and considerable historical pedigree to full
effect.
(https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Atkinsons.html)
3 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

photographs of the boutique at Burlington Arcade, atkinsons1799.com

(http://www.atkinsons1799.com/store-locator/agship-store/london/)
Atkinsons of London (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers

/Atkinsons.html) is another brand with its roots in the past. Atkinsons was
founded in 1799 and reinstated in 2013 after a period off the market.
Although bear grease was reputedly one of their original best-selling
products, their counters are now more likely to be lined with scents which
are a combination of both quintessentially English elements blended with
inspiration from lands with more fragrant traditions. Take, for example, their
Oud Collection which combines both nods to the Royal Family (the majority
of the line is named after Royal titles like His and Her Majesty…) and the use
of the enduringly popular oud. This is perhaps not something you would
necessarily expect to nd in a traditionally English fragrance, but it
demonstrates how the industry here is willing to ex to accommodate more
modern trends and diverse audiences.
Atkinsons trade on what they describe as “200 years of English eccentricity,

style and impeccable manners”. This acknowledgment of what is often
characterised as British eccentricity and conventions is a theme which runs
through many of our fragrance brands. It is the thread which draws us from
brands with one foot in the past to those conceived in the present.
Walk down almost any shopping street in the UK and you’ll nd a branch of
Jo Malone (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Jo-Malone-
London.html). This high-street but aspirational line, founded by the
eponymous perfume heroine in 1983 and sold to Estée Lauder in the late
1990s, has done a lot to raise the prole of scent in the British
consciousness. With a range of appealing fragrances, Jo Malone hit a sweet
4 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14
consciousness. With a range of appealing fragrances, Jo Malone hit a sweet
spot amongst shoppers who were bored with traditional offerings and had
enough disposable income to splash out on a signature fragrance from the
brand (most likely Lime, Basil and Mandarine (https://www.fragrantica.com
/perfume/Jo-Malone-London/Lime-Basil-Mandarin-5585.html) or
Pomegranate Noir (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Jo-Malone-
London/Pomegranate-Noir-5581.html) if they were feeling particularly
daring).
Whilst traditional perfume houses have provided a strong foundation for the
scene in Britain today, a new breed of younger niche and indie brands are
taking perfume in a new direction. These brands often keep one eye on the
ideals of quality and distinctiveness, amongst others, that the British
perfume market applauds, but they also turn towards the future and
embrace something new as well.
5 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays
Take, for example, 4160 Tuesdays (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers

/4160-Tuesdays.html) run by Sarah McCartney. McCartney is a self-taught
perfumer with a small army of devoted followers. The scents of 4160
Tuesdays take eccentricity to the next level, with fragrances that include
“What I did on my holidays” (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/4160-
Tuesdays/What-I-Did-On-My-Holidays-26401.html) which smells of British
summers at the seaside, including mint rock, candy oss, suntan lotion and
rock pools. Another of their scents “London 1969”
(https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/4160-Tuesdays/London-
1969-29125.html) attempts to recreate the scent of our capital city in the
Summer of Love, and uses only ingredients which were available at the time,
such as the newly available hedione.
Another cornerstone of English fragrant expression is our beautiful

countryside. Take, for example, artisan brand, Bedeaux
(https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/BedeauX.html). Although the
founder of this house, Amanda Beadle, has recently relocated to the USA,
she is originally from the UK and set the brand up here. “Chienoir”
6 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14
(https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/BedeauX/Chienoir-49758.html) from
Bedeaux is a scent which recreates the specic beauty of a vineyard nestled
at the foot of the South Downs on the southern English coast. This romantic
landscape was ripe for translation into a fragrance and the resulting scent is
itself both sophisticated and subtle. The Art and Olfaction judges agreed, as
in 2018 Chienoir was the recipient of one of their awards
(https://www.fragrantica.com/news/The-Winners-of-The-Art-and-Olfaction-
Awards-2018-10806.html).
Moving North of the border, resident house Kingdom Scotland

(https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Kingdom-Scotland.html) have a
thing or two to share about their own national pride. Growing from a desire
to “bottle Scotland”, their haunting fragrances have the feel of windswept
7 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14
to “bottle Scotland”, their haunting fragrances have the feel of windswept
days, watercolour-toned skies and stark natural beauty about them. Their
perfume, Albaura (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Kingdom-Scotland
/Albaura-53986.html) evokes frost-coated berries in the wild Scottish winter,
whilst Metamorphic (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Kingdom-
Scotland/Metamorphic-53987.html) conjures up the very rock upon which
the majestic city of Edinburgh sits and couples it with a whisky accord. Pride
stemming from a strong sense of place clearly forms a signicant part of the
perfume industry’s psyche here.
It isn’t enough to just take inspiration from the landscape though. Innovative
new brand Parterre (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Parterre.html)
are even growing some of their own ingredients – a feat which is easier said
than done in the changeable British climate. Their latest release, “The Hour
of Dusk and Gold” (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Parterre/The-
Hour-of-Dusk-Gold-60364.html) contains Persian wild carrot seed, grown,
harvested and distilled at their botanical estate in Dorset. This is the start of
what will hopefully become a protable industry and which may very well
turn the south coast in to our very own Grasse.
The modern British sense of perfumery nds itself at an intersection

between old and new and, whilst there is undoubtedly room for both in our
market, it is right at this juncture that Ruth Mastenbroek
8 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14
The Rise of Modern
market, it isBritish
rightPerfumery ~ Columnsthat
at this juncture https://www.fragrantica.com/news/The-Rise-of-Modern-British-Perfum...
(https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Ruth-Mastenbroek.html ) sits.
Mastenbroek is one of English perfumery’s gems. A classically-trained
perfumer, she spent 40 years in the industry before launching her own line in
2010. The Ruth Mastenbroek fragrances use a classical base, but revitalise
them with a modern twist. “Signature” (https://www.fragrantica.com
/perfume/Ruth-Mastenbroek/Signature-11247.html) which is the rst
fragrance Ruth launched, is a classical chypre but red up with pink
peppercorn and mandarin. In taking a classic but reinventing it for modern
tastes, Ruth Mastenbroek characterises all that is best about British
perfumery right now: we remember our roots, but we are rmly looking
towards a bright, and fragrant, future.
69191.html)
Previous (/news/Soul-of- Columns Next (/news/Louis-The-Zoo-
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13462.html) (news/Columns/) 13490.html) Kuumba Made
Amber &
Sandalwood
(/perfume
Author /Kuumba-
Made/Amber-
Nicola Thomis (/news/author/Nicola-Thomis/) Sandalwood-
32031.html)
Nicola is a marketing and communications professional by Bethrb
and writer based in the North of the UK. Her passion for
fragrances is intensied by synaesthesia which allows Heretic Parfums
her to see scent as colours. Nicola aims to bring high Midnight Toker
quality fragrances to a wider audience by demystifying (/perfume
the complex and sometimes intimidating world of scent. /Heretic-
Nicola’s taste in perfumes is eclectic but she is currently Parfums
/Midnight-
enjoying complex orals, softer woods, and quality
Toker-
vanilla. Nicola is also lead writer on the niche perfume
63061.html)
blog The Sniff (the-sniff.com). by KerriZ
News Comments Write your comment

Al-Rehab
Choco Musk
JorumStudio (/member/1193382/ ) 04/04/20 22:11 (/perfume/Al-
@baerro - thank ya! So glad you like what we are doing here. Rehab/Choco-
Our ethos is concerned with modernity and moving the Musk-20139.html
(/member
conversation forward, glad you mentioned us. Perhaps the by veronicaAvaa
9 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

/1193382/) author isn’t aware of us, we move in the shadows ha! Phloem is Dolce&Gabbana
certainly ‘out there’... but a loveable fool nonetheless. Hope you
K by Dolce &
all are keeping safe and sane in the world.
Gabbana Eau…
(/perfume
/Dolce-
baerro (/member/1151753/ ) 04/04/20 16:58
Gabbana/K-by-
Everybody knows Jo Malone, Atkinsons, etc., but I was glad to
Dolce-
read of some labels I'd never heard of before (like BedeauX and
(/member Gabbana-Eau-
Parterre)! I admit that I was surprised not to see a shout-out to
/1151753/) de-Parfum-
Jorum Studio, though, when you walked about Scotland.
62311.html)
They're putting out some really crazy stuff - "Phloem" has one by Funky_Monk1988
of the most interesting collection of notes I've ever seen for a
perfume! Yves Saint Laurent
Libre Intense
(/perfume/Yves-
ComfyCat (/member/27957/ ) 04/04/20 12:49 Saint-Laurent
Welcome, Nicola! I enjoyed your overview very much, British /Libre-Intense-
perfumery has so much to offer. 62318.html)
(/member
/p/41783) by wst
/27957/)
Yves Saint Laurent
pepperoniann (/member/82118/ ) 04/04/20 11:18
La Nuit de
I do love British perfumes, even more so than French - it ts my
l'Homme
pallet better. Two extra houses worth mentioning: Papillon
(/member
(/p/6466) (/perfume/Yves-
Perfume and Beaufort, both are quirky and leave a daring
/82118/) Saint-Laurent/La-
impression!
Nuit-de-l-Homme-
5521.html)
by hc123
cjas9298 (/member/52059/ ) 04/04/20 11:11

Lancôme
Geo. F. Trumper and Pecksniff's are also worth a mention.
Parfait de
(/member
(/p/9933) Rôses
/52059/)
(/perfume
Jsnow (/member/1232700/ ) 04/04/20 10:05
/Lancome
That was a wonderful overview, I do love learning, just actually
/Parfait-de-
set up an account thing here just to say how much I enjoyed the
(/member Roses-
read �
/1232700/) 45246.html)
by Irisolar
drugstore classics (/member/274586/ ) 04/04/20 09:27 By Kilian

Lovely overview, Nicola! Thank you - pleased to see your good Can't Stop
writing here at Fragrantica. UK brands are too little known here. Loving You
(/member
(/p/5061) Well presented and a pleasure to read. <3 by mamsbens2008
(/perfume/By-
10 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14
/274586/) Kilian/Can-
chinook (/member/293892/ ) 04/04/20 09:11 t-Stop-Loving-
I love Jo Malone! You-78735.html)
(/member
/293892/) Tiziana Terenzi
rickyrebarco (/member/268860/ ) 04/04/20 08:40
Chi
Great article! I really enjoy Atkinson's. They have produced
(/perfume
some lovely perfumes. My other British favorites are Ormonde
(/member
/p/77384) /Tiziana-Terenzi
Jayne and Miller Harris. Ormonde Jayne is one of my favorite
/268860/) /Chi-75664.html
niche brands. by Jacqueline7nt
Victoria's Secret
johngreenink (/member/101192/ ) 04/04/20 08:27 Very Sexy Sea
It's great to see Atkinsons mentioned - it's hard to explain (/perfume
(although Nicola does it well) how very typically English their /Victoria-
(/member
(/p/735) fragrances and other wares are, but they're also so interesting s-Secret/Very-
/101192/)
and really good! Also two shouts for the museum at Floris, it's a Sexy-
beautiful little room where you can see the dusty tomes and Sea-59912.html)
by Dueliszt
apothecary jars, great stuff. Welcome, Nicola!
Xerjoff
Don
tiridia*loves (/member/1231806/ ) 04/04/20 05:29
(/perfume/Xerjoff
Thanks for this brief but informative introduction! It's especially
/Don-26709.html
nice to see Sarah McCartney recognized. Like a handful of by Rammer99
(/member
/p/59348) others have said, my rst interaction with British perfumery was
/1231806/)
through Penhaligon's, although more recently the selections Burberry
from Shay & Blue London have really shined for me. Burberry Men
(/perfume
/Burberry
JorumStudio (/member/1193382/ ) 04/04/20 03:23 /Burberry-
Thanks for the mention @Zizonia - you da best! There are so Men-817.html)
by EotM
many great brands here in Britain, each with a modern voice.
(/member
/1193382/) Les Indemodables
Iris Perle
Zizonia (/member/1083085/ ) 04/04/20 03:13 (/perfume/Les-
Yardley is not exactly modern but it is worth mentioning. Indemodables
Angela Flanders, Jorum Studio, Jo Loves, Grossmith London, /Iris-Perle-
(/member
Arran..and maybe Lush. 48539.html)
/1083085/)
by lessthanzero
11 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

Ioli19 (/member/739030/ ) 04/04/20 02:36 New Reviews (/perfume-

reviews/)
Thank you for the article! There is a plethora of very talented
and diverse perfume houses here in the UK, a lot of exciting
(/member
/p/51559) Article Comments
things happening in these brands. I must mention Miller Harris,
/739030/)
Penhaligon’s, Ormonde Jayne, Memoize, Panah, Illuminum..
and of course Grossmith, Clive Christian, Roja Dove, the Creed Wind
underrated Boadicea The Victorious! Flowers
(/news/Creed-
Wind-Flowers-
16267.html)
JC2109 (/member/148907/ ) 04/04/20 02:12 by Forbiddenjade
Good read, thanks! I rst got to know British perfumery through
Penhaligon's. Also Crabtree&Evelyn, though I think it was only a Miu Miu Fleur
(/member
few years ago that I realized they weren't actually British... ;-p de Lait Eau d…
/148907/)
(/news/Miu-
Miu-Fleur-de-
Lait-Eau-de-
corkscrewcurly (/member/1001237/ ) 04/04/20 01:45
Parfum-
I'm surprised there's no mention of Liz Moores (Papillon) in this
17604.html)
article. Anyone with a love of classic perfume, which has a by Forbiddenjade
(/member
/p/31836) modern twist, should test her fragrances - they are amazing.
/1001237/)
Anne Klein II:
Lost But Not…
jeca (/member/2/ ) 04/03/20 23:44 (/news/Anne-
Welcome to Fragrantica, dear Nicola! Thank you for such an Klein-II-Lost-
informative and pleasant overview of the UK brands. But-Not-
(/member/2/)
/p/78336) Impossible-To-
Find-17614.html
by MichelleAA
Lazure Perfumes:
Write your comment: The Rise of Modern British
Colorful Fish…
Perfumery (/news/Lazure-
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Colorful-Fish-
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Seas-17615.html
by Sara_03
Disclosure: I am not compensated for reviews. I always give my honest opinions, ndings, beliefs, or experiences on
any topics or products. If there is any material connection I share with the seller of the product I will disclose that
relationship within the text of my review.
12 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

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The Rise of Modern British Perfumery Columns

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The Rise of Modern British Perfumery ~ Columns https://www.fragrantica.com/news/The-Rise-of-Modern-British-Perfum...

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The Rise of Modern British Perfumery ~ Columns …

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news (/) perfumes notes (/notes/) perfumers (/noses/) about (/about-us.phtml)

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Perfumery Perfumes: 77,148

Which perfume are you

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Floris of London (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Floris.html) lays

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photographs of the boutique at Burlington Arcade, atkinsons1799.com

Atkinsons of London (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers

Atkinsons trade on what they describe as “200 years of English eccentricity,

5 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays

Take, for example, 4160 Tuesdays (https://www.fragrantica.com/designers

Another cornerstone of English fragrant expression is our beautiful

Moving North of the border, resident house Kingdom Scotland

The modern British sense of perfumery nds itself at an intersection

News Comments Write your comment

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cjas9298 (/member/52059/ ) 04/04/20 11:11

drugstore classics (/member/274586/ ) 04/04/20 09:27 By Kilian

11 sur 19 15/01/2023, 01:14

Ioli19 (/member/739030/ ) 04/04/20 02:36 New Reviews (/perfume-

relationship within the text of my review.

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Alien Azzaro By Kilian Chloé Dolce&Gabbana Lettres- Gucci

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