In the Loupe In the Loupe

In this issue:

The World Leader in Gems... JTV Leaves No Stone Unturned

A Study of Chrome: Part Two Record-Breaking Purse Peridot: Granddaddy of Gems Meet a JTV Collector GIA Looks at Turquoise What is Wassonite? Gemstone Spotlight Swallowing the Heist Trivia & Gem Puzzler
From the Editor: Happy August, everyone! I hope you are reading this from the comfort of an air conditioned home or office. The heat has been incredible this summer. We cover a lot of great material this month. Make sure to read Part Two of Cara Williams study on chromium in gems and the article by special guest author Paul Perone, an avid collector and JTV customer. Other topics include peridot, turquoise, and a really strange jewelry heist in Kentucky. Enjoy! And please continue to send your comments to InTheLoupe@jtv.com. We love hearing from you! Carrie Fox Editor in Chief

A Study of Chrome: Part Two

by Cara Williams, Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain

Since chromium occurs as a trace element, its concentration in gems can vary, allowing for a range of saturations and color variations. Ruby, that king of gems, would not be ruby without chromium. Because it is the mineral corundum, in its pure state, ruby is colorless white sapphire. Only when it contains chromiumand enough chromium to cause red, rather than the less-saturated pinkdoes it become ruby. (Most rubies need to contain only one to three percent of the element in order to appear red. Chromium is a powerful chromophore.) Ruby and pink sapphire are technically the same gemstone with slight variations in chromium. Few other gems change names upon a change in color concentration as these two do. The dividing line has long been a contentious issue among gemologists, labs, appraisers, and gem dealers. While deep reds and pastel pinks are rarely disputed, there is a broad range in between where labeling has varied over the generations, depending on: the part of the world you are in, lighting conditions when the gem is viewed, secondary colors such as orange or purple tones, current sources and the colors they can produce, and, of course, whether one is buying or selling. Some ruby aficionados like a crayon red, while some prefer a bit of pomegranate pink that can make the stone appear brighter. The taste and opinions of the buyer are the final word. Beauty really is in the eye of the beholder. Red spinel is akin to ruby in lots of ways. In addition to being found in many of the same places, its most-prized color is caused by traces of chromium. The red of spinel can range from glowing flame or cherry reds to pastel pinks to deep reds that can resemble some garnets. As most red garnets are colored by iron rather than chromium, a quick test using an ultraviolet or black light can often be performed to distinguish these stones. Chromium usually reacts to ultraviolet light by glowing red. When viewed under dark lighting conditions, this can be a beautiful effect to observe. This red glow is known as fluorescence, and it is a good indicator of the presence of chromiumbut not always proof. Anthill garnet is one of the more fascinating varieties of the Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue

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Chrome cont...
garnet family. Not only does it have a unique moniker due to its unusual mining circumstances, but it also contains chromium. Chromium prefers certain types of light. Daylight and fluorescent light are not its favorites. But if it is put under a traditional incandescent bulb or in candlelight, you will see it glow warmly as it basks in its preferred environment, radiating a warm, ruby-red color. This boost of color from the chromium makes anthill garnet the purest of the red shades of garnetand the most ruby-like. Unlike ruby, red spinel, and many chromiumcolored gems, though, anthill garnet does not fluoresce. This is because it is also colored by iron, which has the ability to mask some of the color and light effects

Worlds Most Valuable Purse

by Carrie Fox, Editor in Chief

The Mouawad 1001 Nights Diamond Purse is designed to mesmerize with its lavish attention to detail and elaborate workmanship, said Pascal Mouawad, co-guardian of the globally-renown House of Mouawad, in a 2011 press release. And hes right! It does not disappoint! With a value of $3.8 million, this breathtaking creation received official certification from the Guinness World Records as the most valuable handbag in the world. Mouawad says their inspiration was taken from one of the worlds most epic tales, referring, of course, to 1001 Arabian Nightsthe famous collection of stories involving romance, fantasy, and intrigue.

of chromium. (Stones with sufficient iron will not fluoresce or appear red in the Chelsea filter, even though they contain chromium.) Enough iron will prevent these reactions entirely, but a small amount will just minimize the effect. Iron might be seen as chromiums nemesis in some instancesat least when it comes to color. Hopefully, this has provided a good understanding of the part chromium plays in the coloring of some beautiful red gems. Exploring the elements role in green gems is just around the corner in Septembers issue. 2

Handcrafted from 18kt gold, the heart-shaped purse incorporates 4,517 yellow, pink, and colorless diamonds. The total weight in gems is 381.92 carats. Building this incredible masterpiece required 10 highly-skilled craftsmen to work 8,800 hours over a period of four months. Fred Mouawad, co-guardian of the House of Mouawad, told reporters, This breathtaking creation is a unique masterpiece. Not only is it one of a kind, but it is also the worlds most valuable, intensifying its power to enchant those who have the privilege of wearing it.

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Peridot: a Granddaddy of Gems

by Jerry Sisk, G.G. & JTV Co-Founder It probably comes as no surprise that I am highlighting peridot in this months article. After all, it is the traditional birthstone for August. Although not as well known as emerald, ruby, and sapphire, peridot has had a strong following throughout history. This beautiful lime- to olive-green gemstone has been cherished and prized throughout the world, and it has a pedigree that is quite impressive. In my opinion, peridot is a true granddaddy of gems. Why a granddaddy? When you consider that the age of most gems is gauged in centuries or decades, peridot truly stands out. Some of the earliest references date back to ancient Egypt, which places peridot in the realm of millennia. Where was the first notable discovery of this gem? It was on a barren, desolate island in the Red Sea, presently known as Zabargad. The name has changed many times over the centuries, but the earliest designation, Serpent Isle, gives some insight into one of the many challenges faced by the first miners. Eventually, all the poisonous, slithering squamates were eliminated, but many other obstacles remained. Conditions were harsh, and every basic necessity of life and mining had to be transported great distances to reach this remote and inhospitable mote of land. It did not take long for the beauty of peridot to reach the eye of the aristocracy. It became so important that the ancient Egyptians considered peridot the gemstone of the pharaohs. Its signature color, a combination of green and yellow, had special spiritual significance. The green was associated with Isis, goddess of nature, and the yellow, with Ra, god of the sun. Legend has it that peridot was a favorite of Cleopatra and that many of the emeralds in her royal treasury were actually peridots in disguise. It would seem that peridotsnot diamonds were a girls best friend. If you roll forward a few centuries and shift to Europe, peridot makes another big impression. After many forays in the Holy Land, crusaders, either by conquest or trade, returned with many valuable gemstones, peridot included. The rich color of peridot was well received, and these gems quickly rose in popularity. Many of these stones were probably mistaken for emerald since gemology, as a science, had not yet developed. The popularity of peridot was so great that many of these gems made it into various crown jewels, as well as ecclesiastical decorations and ornamentation. A good example of the latter is the Shrine of the Three Kings in Cologne, France. This reliquary contains an incredible number of jewels, three of which are exceptionally large peridots. However, the influence of peridot did not stop with Europe. If you prefer opulence in the extreme, travel to the far eastern portion of Europe bordering on Asia. The Topkapi Palace Museum of Istanbul, Turkey, contains a truly amazing gold throne. The Ottoman Sultans, like the royalty of Europe, favored peridots and included over 900 of the attractive gems in the thrones constructionsome of exceptional size. For the jewelry lovers in our group, I suggest looking at pieces from the latter portion of the Victorian age, when styles and aesthetics favored peridot. The Art Nouveau period, which gained momentum in the 1890s and continued into the mid-1910s, also favored peridot. It became a dominant gem of that movement. Many beautifully-flowing jewelry designs highlighted peridot and were often accented with natural pearls, another mainstay of the period.
...continued on page 6

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Meet a JTV Collector

Gemstones for Pleasure or Treasure? by Paul Perone, Guest Author Youre buying gemstones. Congratulations! Beautiful, arent they? Many of us start purchasing stones because of a certain color or type, or we possibly have ideas about what to make with them. Some of us even get led into new careers. I, personally, was caught when, as a young boy, I first noticed those twinkles as I walked by a jewelry store window. So, are you buying gems for their beauty and the pleasure of having them in view, or are you buying for other reasons? It starts harmlessly enough, but then, the gems can really draw you in. (One of my daughters-in-law, for example, is really drawn to gemstones for their healing powersthe metaphysical side benefits they offer.) As you continue to purchase gems, youll start to get more stones of that favorite color, and the sizes will get bigger. And as you learn more, youll get into better quality and also more expensive gems. (In fact, as your gem interest grows, you may have to choose more carefully as new stones are introduced.) Your education about the science of the stones will build to include mineral and chemical compositions, the geographic source locations of your beauties, overall availability and demand, and much more. Youll even begin to notice what others wear and how they mix and match for their own personal look. Now, youll know youve crossed over to become an actual collector (as opposed to an enthusiast of a casual hobby) when you start buying wardrobe pieces to go with your gems and jewelry. Yes, thats happened in our house! As you collect, your ideas expand and may possibly include a wealth effect using stones. Thats when your collecting changes direction. Because some gems are more valuable than others, your purchases may be considered as a way to exchange currency for an asset that hopefully holds value and is something you can pass along to others in your family. Your knowledge will by now have you considering the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of gems that will make it into your collection. And as you pay more for must- have treasures like emerald, ruby, sapphire, tanzanite, and imperial topaz, youll add a new dimension to your group of stones. Not only will you own pieces of time and earth history youll also enjoy some rarity and beauty that will give you years of pleasure. And there are other bonuses to collecting as well. You can chat with fellow collectors or attend shows in your area. You might also take classes related to your gemstones. All of these can multiply the pleasure your stones and your knowledge give you. So wherever you are on the collecting path, whether its for pleasure or treasure, theres always more gemstone fun ahead! 4 Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue

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Turquoise an Ancient Gem with Modern Panache

by the Gemological Institute of America Turquoise is one of the worlds most ancient gemstones. Archaeological excavations have revealed that Egyptian royalty wore turquoise jewelry as early as 5500 B.C. Chinese artisans were carving it more than 3,000 years ago. Native American tribes have worn turquoise as a ceremonial gem and adorned their jewelry and amulets with it for thousands of years. Yet, this appealing bluish gem maintains its charm, even today, as a favored accessory worldwide. Celebrities including Cher, Jennifer Lopez, Macy Gray, Jennifer Love Hewitt, and Lenny Kravitz have all been spotted wearing this timeless jewel. GIAs world-renowned education teaches that turquoise most likely first arrived in Europe around the thirteenth century from Turkish sources. Deriving its name from the French expression Pierre tourques, or Turkish stone, turquoise is mined worldwide, including in Egypt, China, and the U.S. Turquoise is the present-day December birthstone and is designated as the 11th wedding anniversary gift. The Egyptians believed that turquoise possessed magical properties in that it could thwart misfortune and heal a variety of ailments. The national gem of Tibet, turquoise has long been considered to bestow health and good luck. The Apaches thought that turquoise attached to a bow or firearm increased the accuracy of a hunter or warrior. The gems color ranges from light to medium blue or greenish-blue and is usually opaque. Spiderweb turquoisea popular variationdisplays veins of matrix (its host rock) in web-like patterns. Persian (Iranian) turquoise is considered the finest quality and also the most expensive, and it exhibits an intense light to medium blue, typically with no matrix. It has the ability to take on a glossy polish. Other turquoise varieties include American, Mexican, Egyptian, and Chinese. Large turquoise stones are common; however, the gem is also plentiful in a wide range of sizes and is often used for beads, cabochons, carvings, and inlays. Trendy fashion designers have more recently sewn it into clothing and bejeweled purses with it. Turquoises popularity has varied throughout time. Currently, it is a hot item not only for Hollywood divas, but it is also universally liked because of its commercial abundance. Its most enduring appeal remains in the American Southwest and among those who are captivated by that regions mystery and romance, as well as by its blue skies, reminiscent of turquoises color. GIAs gem experts say turquoise is typically enhanced before it reaches the market, and special care should be taken to maintain its vitality. When cleaning, GIA recommends avoiding acetone-like solvents. Additionally, perspiration, skin oils, cosmetics, and other chemicals may turn a blue turquoise to green, so avoid prolonged exposure.
Copyright 2010 Gemological Institute of America. All rights reserved.

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Peridot cont...
Historically, Myanmar (Burma) has been a significant source of peridot, but many others exist today. If you are a collector, you can purchase peridot from Arizona and New Mexico in the U.S. It can even be found in the black sands of Hawaii. The stone can also be located in more exotic and remote regions of the world. Fine gemstones are coming out of China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Brazil, Australia, and Kenya. In my opinion, the most exotic peridot comes to us from pallisites. Pallisites are meteorites that date back to the
Backlighting sets fire to amber inclusions of olivine in meteorite, San Diego, California (Photo by Jonathan S. Blair/National Geographic/Getty Images)

What is Wassonite?
NASA and coresearchers from the United States, South Korea, and Japan have discovered a new mineral, which was named Wassonite after University of California professor John T. Wasson. The finding has been approved by the International Mineralogical Assoc. Wassonite is a mineral formed from only two elements, sulfur and titanium, yet it possesses a unique crystal structure that has not been previously observed in nature, said NASA space scientist Keiko Nakamura-Messenger. Interestingly, the mineral was buried within a meteorite recovered from Antarctica in 1969. (That year, researchers found nine meteorites while exploring a blue ice field in the Yamato Mountains, which led to numerous followup searches and the recovery of over 40,000 specimens.) NASA believes it is 4.5 billion years old and originally part of an asteroid that orbited between Mars and Jupiter.

Gemstone Spotlight: Quartz

When you read about diamond buying, inclusions are referred to as negative attributes that drop value and quality. However, that definitely does not apply to all gems. Some varieties form with fascinating inclusions that enhance uniqueness, desire, and beauty. Several members of the quartz family fit into this category. Lets take a look at two examples.

Strawberry Quartz
Red hematite inclusions in this stone give its body a pinkish appearance, earning the gem its name. In reality, the base body color is clear.

formation of our solar system, and these amazing travelers are composed of iron and peridot. As it turns out, some of these extraterrestrial crystals are large enough to be faceted. I consider these to be the ultimate prize for serious gem collectors. Whether you are a gem collector, designer, or jewelry hobbyist, JTV offers a wide range of peridots to satisfy the needs and desires of our entire viewing audience. Join us this month as we bring the beauty and majesty of peridot to you live from Jewelry Television. 6

Rutilated Quartz
This stone is characterized by long needles that are formed by the mineral rutile. These intriguing inclusions grow in a variety of colors including gold, red, brown, green, and black.

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Swallowing the Heist

by Carrie Fox, Editor in Chief This is a story of true desperation! Last month, a Richmond, KY, woman was arrested for participating in a jewelry heist and then swallowing the evidence. An x-ray proved the polices case. Here are the details: On July 5th, employees of The Castle, a jewelry store in Richmond, reported that a couple had entered their store to shop for engagement rings. After looking heavily at a specific 1.5ctw ring, the couple apparently switched it out for a much cheaper style they had also been examining. After purchasing what should have been the less valuable version, staff recognized the con and confronted the pair, who immediately ran out of the store. An investigation led police to the 30-yearold woman that same day, and she was taken in on a warrant for theft by unlawful taking. Once in custody, authorities learned their suspect had apparently swallowed the ring at some point. A subsequent x-ray performed at Regional Medical Center confirmed it was true. Wow all of that for a ring priced under $3,500! The woman now faces a charge of receiving stolen property under $10,000. Additionally, I believe there are some embarrassing conversations in her future. When this article was written, the ring had not yet been recovered. Nicole Lauhon, general manager of The Castle, said, I guess its a waiting game. People have tried making the switch in a lot of high-end jewelry stores. This is the first time it has happened to me. Not too surprisingly, she also said it was the first time she had encountered someone ingesting jewelry as part of a theft!

Jerrys Trivia Challenge

1) Gems in which crystal system are not doubly refractive? a. Orthorhombic b. Cubic c. Tetragonal d. Hexagonal 2) Peridot falls into which crystal system? a. Orthorhombic b. Cubic c. Tetragonal d. Hexagonal 3) Which of the following is not a mineral? a. Fluorite b. Unakite c. Elbaite d. Quartz
Check back next month to see if you answered correctly!

100th Anniversary of Morganite

Morganite celebrates its 100th anniversary this year! The lovely and feminine gemstone was discovered in Madagascar in 1911. Originally coined pink beryl, it was later named in honor of the late J.P. Morgan. Since its discovery, morganite has become a favorite among gem connoisseurs, though it remains relatively unknown in standard retail circles.

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Miss an Edition of In the Loupe?

To read previous editions of In the Loupe, go to jtv.com/InTheLoupe. There, you will find an archive of back issues beginning with our first release in April 2010.

Coming Soon!
Aug 12-14: Chrome Diopside Aug 15-17: Gem Vue Anniversary Aug 17-21: Gem Days Aug 27 & 28: Customer Appreciation Days

Across

Down 1 Spessartite or pyrope 2 Refractive Index, abbrev. 3 Big 3 gems - 1st letters 4 Fine, thin inclusions 5 Type of jade - plural 6 Important gem property 7 River pearl this state gem 8 States North & South ___ 12 2 types of UV light waves, abbrev. 13 Buy gems with these in China 16 Benitoite this state gem 19 May, July, & Jan birthstones - 1st letters 22 Important to gem polishing wheels 24 Titanite older name for this gem 26 Slang term for each ray of star gem 28 Part of the earth or an oyster 30 Sunstone this state gem 31 Gold mineral to state in 16 Down 32 Durable jewelry metal symbol 34 Black, dark, & white types of these 35 Round, oval, or square in gems 38 SG, RI, & OC gem types of this 40 Major element in ruby - symbol 43 Buy gems with Krone here, abbrev. 46 Diamond this state gem 47 Important element in emerald & aqua 48 Rose quartz this state mineral 50 Galena this northern state mineral

1 Chrome diopside color 5 1st 6 letters of Peace Garden State 9 Aeolian weathering due to this 10 Salem limestone this state stone 11 Some gems look this way 14 Gold this state mineral 15 Gold this state mineral, too 17 Fairburn agate this state gem 18 Some call these colors 21 Ormer or ___ shell 23 Of beryl gems, bixbite is this 25 Stripping off an outer layer 27 No state rock, gem, or mineral here 28 Gems measured in this unit 29 Jeweler does this to gems 30 Flint this state gem 31 Jewelry can be die struck or this 33 Jan & May birthstones 1st letters 34 Native copper, gold, & silver 36 Peridot & Topaz months 1st letters 37 Star garnet this state gem 39 Amber a form of this 41 Smoky quartz this state gem 42 Feb & April birthstones 1st letters 44 Apatite this state gem 45 Tanzanite found here, abbrev. 46 Feldspar species - plural 49 Ultraviolet SW & this 51 Rare earth element 52 Species of feldspar

Shop on the Go!

JTV has made it even easier to shop with the release of our new mobile website and mobile app. On your mobile device, go to jtv.com/mobile, where you can shop our entire selection of products and even watch the live shows. You can also download the new JTV app free at iTunes App Store and Android market. Answers to Julys Trivia & Puzzler
1) Which of these diamonds is not a fancy color? d. Star of Africa 2) Which is the worlds heaviest diamond? a. Golden Jubilee 3) Which wavelength of light bends the most when entering a gem? b. Violet 4) Which wavelength of light bends the least when entering a gem? c. Red Puzzler Solution
D I A M O N D E L U V I A L N L D D I R T Y B R A I N G I C M G T R E M O L A E E B A M S H A D E S A U S S C R O S S O D R A T S A R M A R A L N T M A R A I N D D E N M S E S T E T A A I L S I L K Y P E A R L S

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EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief: Carrie Fox Copy Editor: Patty Reynolds Contributor: Jerry Sisk Guest Authors: Paul Perone Cara Williams

CREATIVE
Lead Design: Russ Hamilton Online Design: Jos Salas Photography: Getty Images Mouawad JTV archives Keith Harris Russ Hamilton

G A M N

Volume XVI: August 2011 Issue

Trivia for Aug 11 ITL 1) Gems in which crystal system are not doubly refractive? a. Orthorhombic