GROOMING YOUR PULT Aside from the unigue personality, the Puli coat is his most striking characteristic. Proper care of the coat is a must whether your dog is a pet or a show prospect. The pet must have regular grooming to stay happy and healthy. If you are planning a show career for your Puli then a healthy, beautifully groomed coat is an essential to successful competition. Regular grooming will alert you to any signs of fleas, ticks or other health problems and you can incorporate a general home physical exam at the same time. A big problem in owning and raising a Puli is the care of the coat. In most cases, the new owner is guilty of several things: 1. - Overgrooming; 2. Undergrooming and, 3. Improper grooming. on the next few pages I will attempt to instruct you on the care of your Puli's coat from puppyhood through to adult. The AKC standard allows Pulik to be shown in both the brushed out and the corded coat. Cording to those who are not familiar is actually controlled matting. The coat of the Puli is curly and tends to hang in ringlets as puppies. As the dog matures he develops a double coat, consisting of longer coarse outer hairs and a wooly dense undercoat. It is the matting of the undercoat with the outer coat that forms the cords. Constant and continued combing and brushing will prevent the coat from matting and starting to cord. The undercoat begins to come in first on the rump at about 10 months of age. Up till that time the care of the coat is the same if you wish to cord or keep brushed out. For pet owners who wish to keep their Puli trimmed I have also included instructions on clipping the different coat types that they may use themselves or pass along to their groomer. Puli Book Page 20EQUIPMENT REQUTRED A PIN BRUSH - I find the oblong type the best and easiest to use. The pins should be about 1-1/2 inches long and made of metal in a rubber pad base. A COARSE TOOTHED COMB - This comb will be an important tool in the proper care of the coat. I use the one made by PSI and most pet supply stores carry them. NAIL CLIPPERS - There are several types on the market. Look at several and decide which ones you find easiest to use. TI use several types depending on the dog. TWEEZERS OR KEMOSTATS - Used for pulling the excess hair from the dogs ears. Also available at most pet supply stores. You will also need a bottle of peroxide and cotton balls for cleaning the ears. SCISSORS - For general trimming of the coat around the feet and rear. SHAMPOOS AND CONDITIONERS - Always use a tearless shampoo for the face. A good quality pet shampoo will work fine on the body coat. I like to change shampoos as needed; a moisturizing shampoo, flea shampoo or a medicated shampoo. I also recommend using a cream rinse after each shampoo. There are a number on the market, some will also moisturize dry skin as well as the coat. Occasionally an oil bath or hot oil treatment may be necessary if the skin or coat are very dry or damaged. Puli Book Page 21THE PUPPY COAT - UP TO SIX MONTHS The puppy coat is quite easy to care for during the first few months. It is important that you do begin a weekly grooming schedule so that when the dog is grown it will be used to being worked on. The puppy coat is soft and curly and consists of just a single outer coat. It requires only a good brushing and combing once each week which will only take you about 15-20 minutes. Don't rush the grooming session and make it a pleasant experience for both you and your puppy. The adult brushed Puli should take about 1 hour to properly groom each week. Your puppy should be trained to lay down on its side and to stand quietly on a table. First start by removing any debris from the corners of the eyes. Sometimes it is necessary to use a cotton ball moistened with warm water to make it easier. Remember the eyes are a sensitive area and to be careful not to dig or cause any additional irritation. Next check the puppy's ears. Gently and carefully pluck the hair from the ear canal with your fingers, or the tweezers or hemostats. This may be difficult at first as it does tickle and the puppy won't like it. You may have to have someone help you by holding the puppy's head. I find it easier to just do small amounts daily at first until the puppy is accepting of the process. When all the visible hair is removed use a cotton ball soaked with peroxide and gently wipe out the ear canal and the surrounding flap. Dirty ears are the major cause of a puppy scratching out his coat on the head and neck. Next clip the puppy's nails. Just take the tip off. Keeping the nails trimmed will prevent them from growing too long and spoiling the shape of the foot. Be careful not to take too much off as the nail can bleed. If you do cause the nail to bleed you can stop it by using a septic pencil or Blood-Stop powder applied to the nail. Now that you have that done, take your coarse toothed comb and starting at the legs and belly (with the puppy laying on his or her side) and begin. With one hand lift up the coat and start combing from the skin downwards to the ends of the coat. Each time taking a little section of hair from under your hand. Hold the hair lightly so as not to pull it when you comb. This is called LAYERING. Working on the coat is very easy now but it is important because the puppy is being trained. Most people don't think the coat needs grooming at this age, but this training will come in handy when the dog is an adult and there is more coat to work on. Puli Book Page 22When you finish two legs and the belly and one side, turn the puppy over and do the same to the other side. When’ finished allow the puppy to stand and comb the tail and the rear. Have the puppy sit facing you and then do the chest, remembering to hold the hair up with one hand and comb from the bottom working upward. Always comb from the skin downward to ends. Finish by combing the head hair. Most puppies don't have a part down the back at this point so you may want to just comb through the back starting at the tail and working up to the neck. Once the puppy is thoroughly combed, use your brush to gently fluff out the coat. The comb is to remove any mats or other debris from the coat. The brush is used to stimulate the skin and spread the natural oils from the base of the hair outward. As your puppy's coat grows in length the brush will be used in addition to the comb in LAYERING. When preparing for a bath, the puppy should first have his ears and-eyes cleaned and nails clipped. Completely.comb the coat out. You are now ready for a bath. Using tepid, not hot water, gently soak the coat. Most puppies do not like the head being sprayed so you may save that till last, but it must be washed too. Work the shampoo well into the coat. Wash the head last and then rinse the coat until all shampoo is out., Rinse again to be sure. Soap left in the coat will cause itching. Mix up the cream rinse according to the directions with tepid water. Pour over the dog, avoiding the eyes. Work well into the coat, let stand a few minutes and then rinse well again. Pat dry the puppy with a towel using a patting motion instead of rubbing. Rubbing will only make the coat mat. You may dry the puppy in several ways. You may choose, if the weather is quite warm, to let the puppy air dry. This will give the coat a very curly look. You may also use a hand held dryer on a WARM setting. Using your fingers at first gently fluff the coat and blow the hair dry, moving the dryer back and forth at a 10" distance from the body. If you have a crate, you can put a towel over the sides and top and place the dryer at one end. Make sure the setting is WARM not hot as this could burn the puppy and dry out the coat. when the puppy is dry you may choose to leave the naturally curly coat or you may want to brush the coat out, the choice is yours. At this time trim the hair between the pads even with the pads of the feet. Also trim the feet to give them a rounded appearance, rather than what we call muffy-feet. Just makes them look neater. It is always wise to carefully trim the hair around the anus to prevent any matter from sticking or adhering. Puli Book Page 23THE ADOLESCENT COAT 2 MONTHS It is during this period that the puppy will begin to lose it's puppy coat and a new coarser adult outer coat will begin as well as a dense wooly undercoat. It will first begin on the rump, under the tail and down the back legs. Moving forward from that point, you may notice the coat mats more easily now and seems like you are always combing the dog out. YOU WILL NOW HAVE TO DECIDE IF YOU WANT TO HAVE A CORDED OR BRUSHED OUT COAT. The brushed out coat will be groomed in the same manner as the puppy coat, only you will now not only have a double coat to work with but a longer one as well. Your grooming sessions must be more thorough and complete. All mats must be removed each week. The Corded Coat will require work to get started. Your equipment will be the same, except in place of the brush and comb you will need your fingers. THE BRUSHED COAT Since you have been training your puppy, he should accept regular groomings at this time. First clean the eyes and ears and clip the nails. Check the coat for areas that have bunched up into mats. It is good to check the belly and inside the back legs for signs of fleas or flea dirt. If the dog scratches at all, don't waste time but check him immediately. With a heavy coat you will not always be able to find fleas, but most likely that is what is causing the problem. Please refer to the section on flea control and skin problems further on. With the adolescent and adult coat you should first work on the areas that are bunched or matted. Usually they are on the back under the tail, under the front legs, chin, ears and feet. Spray the mats with water and cream rinse (use a spray bottle); it makes removing them easier. Hold the mat or a section of it with one hand and with the comb start at the side edge and pick out the dead hair. By working on the mat this way you save coat and the dog has the least amount of discomfort. It is not easy; but with care and patience they will come out. Once you have all the mats removed you may now work the rest of Puli Book Page 24the coat. TI like to start with the dog laying down and with my hand lift the hair upwards toward the spine. I then spray lightly the area I will work on and using the Pin brush, brush the hair down. Make sure you get right down to the skin and do not leave any tangles or mats. If you find any, work them out with the comb. When working this way, be sure to do the belly hair and the inside of the opposite leg. Just lift the leg closest to you up and work underneath. Also be sure to brush under the front legs. When you have finished one side, turn the dog over and do the same on the opposite side. When both sides have been completed have the dog stand and do the tail and the rear and back of the legs. Have the dog sit facing you and work on the chest and the front legs again, making sure all hairs are thoroughly brushed out. Brush the hair back from the eyes and comb the beard out. Then brush the area under the ears, side of the face and last the topnot which is carefully layer brushed froward (be sure to be careful not to dig the pin brush into the eyes). If you are preparing to bathe the dog, you may skip the brushing and save that for when you dry the dog. Bathing a brushed Puli is quite simple. ALWAYS comb the dog thoroughly before the bath. Mats will only get tighter if you don't. Have all your equipment ready. Put cotton in the dogs ears to prevent water getting into the ear canal. Place the dog in the tub standing or sitting with a little water in the bottom. Use a handheld sprayer or a pitcher and pour clean running water over the dog. I like to mix a little shampoo in a pitcher with water and pour over the dogs body (not head) working the shampoo into the coat in a squeezing motion, like washing a wool sweater. Use more shampoo to do the legs and the belly if necessary. Be sure to get all areas. Then carefully wash the face. Once the dog is completely washed, drain the tub and rinse thoroughly. I recommend a second shampoo to thoroughly clean the dog. During flea season I first wash with a flea shampoo allowing lather to stay on the coat 5-10 minutes and rinse following with a moisturizing shampoo. Once that is done, rinse and rinse and rinse again until you are sure all shampoo is removed from the coat. Follow with the cream rinse. I usually mix the conditioner in a pitcher with water and pour over the dog working it well into the coat. Allow to remain on the coat for about 3 minutes and then rinse off. Sometimes if the coat is very thick you may have to put water in the tub and mix the conditioner in the tub and pour over the dog. Occasionally a dog will have a very dry skin and coat and will require an oil bath or hot oil treatment. Please refer to the section on oil baths and special treatments in this booklet. Puli Book Page 25Use towels to blot the hair to partial dry or at least get as much water out of the coat as possible. Do not rub as this will encourage the hair to mat. Drying may be accomplished in several ways. You may want to air dry on warm days or in a crate with towels on the bottom and one covering most of the crate. Be sure it is in a warm area. You may also crate dry with a blow dryer, allowing the hair to dry curly or last you may blow the coat dry and brush at the same time. Once the coat is thoroughly dry you should comb and brush the entire dog again. This will get out any mats you may have missed or perhaps caused with rubbing the coat. Also if the dog was muddy it will enable you to completely comb out those areas now without damaging the coat. There are no shortcuts to a healthy and well cared for brushed coat. It takes time, patience and a bit of work but in the long run the benefits for both you and your Puli are worth it. Puli Book Page 26THE CORDED CoAT The equipment needed for the corded coat is minimal. A spray bottle and your fingers. Occasionally you will need a pair of scissors, but the main portion of work on the coat is done by hand. The scissors are used to trim feet and the rear. Of course you will also need nail clippers, tweezers or hemostats to pull the hair from the ears and cotton balls and peroxide to clean them. The care of the coat until the puppy reaches adolescence is the same as for the brushed coat. As the undercoat (that soft downy hair at the skin) grows in the coat will begin to mat or pack down. It starts under the tail and rump area first, working its way up towards the front. Usually the ears and legs are the last to cord. Remember, the coat requires its greatest amount of care during the formative stages - until about 18 months of age. And, still, don't expect the ultimate coat in a two year old dog. If you decide you want to cord your Puli's coat you should start allowing the coat to form the natural curly divisions from about 6 months of age. The dog should be bathed and allowed to dry naturally without any brushing or combing of the coat after the bath. The coat will now be very curly and this will give the definitions of each cord. with the dog laying on it's side look at the natural curls and see where the coat is starting to pack down. Using your fingers carefully separate the strands by tearing each down to the skin. A standard rule is that the individual cord should be about the width of your thumb. Tearing down the coat does not require a great deal of strength but you must tear the coat apart without pulling so hard as to tear or injure the skin. Once the coat is torn down, lightly spray each curl or cord with water and continue on to the next spot. In some cases the undercoat mats to the point where it feels like great lumps. This is quite natural. Look for the separations and working a small area at a time, pull them apart to form little cords about the size of your thumb. Smaller cords will generally weaken at the skin and fall out as they grow. It is better to make them wider and bigger because they can always be split into smaller ones later. As the coat grows, these cords become more pronounced and dense. You must continue to work on the coat at this time to prevent it from matting so much that the ends are no longer visable. Puli Book Page 27Repeat the separation process as necessary. The more undercoat that grows in the more work you will have to do. Tt usually takes about 5-6 months to get the entire coat separated into "baby" cords. As the Puli nears maturity less care is needed. The fully grown Puli requires only an occasional separation of new growth as it lengthens. Once the coat is completely separated you will work in the same layering manner as the brushed coat. Of course you trained your Puli to lay on his side so your work will be much easier. Always start from the belly and bottom of the feet and work upwards towards the back. I find this is the best time to trim nails and the hair between the toes. Just even it off with the pads. Check for debris between the pads. Sometimes using a cotton ball soaked in alcohol rubbed on the pads and between the toes is helpful in preventing any irritations and will toughen up the feet. Check each cord to make sure the end is open and not curled back into itself. If it is, take a slicker brush and brush ONLY the end out. Tear apart any new growth and if you wish spray lightly with a cream rinse mixture. This will continually condition the cords and help them tighten up. DO NOT soak the dog at this point, just a light spray will do. Also check each cord for any twigs, grass or debris that may be stuck in them. Remove with your fingers or with the tweezers. REMEMBER, the cording coat must be kept very clean. Continue in the layering process and be sure to clean out any debris in the corners of the eyes. Always check around the mouth for food that has collected and work it out. This could cause the beard to smell after awhile. Once you have completely gone through the corded coat you are ready for the bath. BATHING THE CORDED CoAT The coat must be kept clean while cording. Dirt and twigs and debris allowed to collect in the coat can cause irritations and if the dog scratches it will take much more time for those lost areas to grow back. To bathe the young Puli just beginning to cord, place him in the tub filled partially with warm or tepid water. Prior to placing the dog in the tub you may mix some shampoo directly in the water in the tub - don't use too much and keep the suds to a minimum. Puli Book Page 28Pour the soapy water from the tub over the dog, massaging the shampoo into the dog in much the same manner as a woolen sweater. Squeeze the shampoo through the cords and the coat. DO NOT RUB as this will mat the coat and ball the ends of the newly forming cords. This same shampooing action is required of the corded stage regardless of the length or age of the coat. However, with a fully corded coat you may find that it will need several soaks and rinses to completely clean the cords. This is especially necessary if the dog has gotten into mud or some other substance that can't just be rinsed off. Urine stains and smells are a problem with the corded dog. Males should have the hair and cords clipped off their stomachs. If the coat is very long you may have to tie it up with coated rubber bands to prevent them from urinating on the cords. It is not necessary to cut the cords off the rear of a female, but you will have to pay particular attention to keeping them clean as they are likely to chew off dirty areas. As the coat gets longer you will be able to pull them up out of the way with rubber bands. I have found that products on the market that are made for removing urine stains and odors are great for badly stained cords. Check with the labels to be sure it states they are harmless to both pets and people. Follow the directions on the label and allow it to soak for about 1/2 hour preceeding the bath. It works wonders, You may use most any type of shampoo on the corded coat. If the skin looks dry a medicated or moisturizing shampoo is useful. If you have a flea problem or during flea season make the first shampoo a flea bath and allow lather to stay on coat about 10-15 minutes. Always follow the shampoo with several rinses and with the fully corded dog find that after the last shampoo, rinse well and then partially fill the tub again and add 1 TBS white vinegar to the final rinse water. Pour over the dog, except the head. This will help cut any remaining soap left in the cords. Follow with another rinse. I always use a cream rinse following the vinegar rinse. I mix about 1/3 cup in about 3 gallons of tub water and saturate the entire coat, being careful about the eyes. I leave it on for about 5 minutes and rinse off thoroughly. It is also good to mix some cream rinse in the spray bottle and spray the coat between baths to condition it. Puli Book Page 29CARING FOR THE SHOW DOG'S COAT If you have plans to show your new puppy, preparation must begin with the young dog. Follow the instructions for grooming to the letter. Training your puppy is most important since you will spend more time working on the show coat than you would on a companion dog. Remember that your dog must be in good physical condition, meaning good weight, muscle tone and COAT IN TIPTOP CONDITION. In order to grow and keep the coat, it must be kept very clean This does not mean that your puppy can't play or get dirty, but when it does you must give it a bath, not wait a few weeks. If your dog should begin scratching you must act immediately before the coat and skin is damaged. Check for fleas and if you can't find anything, bathe the dog in a flea shampoo and condition anyway. I find that bathing every two weeks and I mean faithfully, will keep the dog's coat in good condition and prevent any problems fron forming. Remember you must condition each tine you bathe and leave it on for about 5 full minutes. The dogs coat should be worked on weekly. Other than these few extra things follow the general instructions on coat care in this booklet Puli Book Page 30CLIPPING THE PULI I find that with many pet owners they prefer to keep their Puli's trimmed. This will make taking care of the dog much easier if you have a very active life and not much time for grooming. I also find that older Puli's are happier when they are not fussed about with their coats, most show dogs are trimmed when they retire. Whether you do it yourself or have the dog trimmed professionally always remember that it is better to care for the coat on a regular basis than do nothing for 6 months and just have it shaved and washed. When a fully corded dog is to be clipped you can't do much but take the coat off with a #4 blade, leaving whiskers and a fringe over the eyes. I usually leave about 4-6 inches of cords on the tail, because I don't like it naked. Even when the dog is clipped like'this the coat will grow back in quickly. I will clip a corded dog only in the early spring (May) so that it will have enough coat by winter to enjoy outdoor activities. Keeping the coat short from about 6 months on requires that the coat be first mat free. Teh coat then can be completely washed and brushed out and hand scissored in a puppy clip, hair about 3" long with face hair shaped but leaving the same over the eyes appearance. Sometimes grooners are able to use a clipper and skim over the brushed out coat to the desired length. I like having the coat about 2-3 inches in length in the summer and double that in the winter. With it at that length you will still have to brush the coat on a weekly basis but there will be less work involved. You may instruct your groomer to use the clip patterns of the Kerry Blue Terrier or the Bichon Frise to do your dog. Leaving the legs slightly longer than the body coat makes then look more attractive. If the coat is badly neglected you may have no recourse except to clip short and start over again. Make sure that if you do, you protect the dog from the hot sun, as the skin will sunburn or from the cold if done in the winter. Puli Book Page 32SKIN PROBLEMS PARASITES, ALLERGIES, DIET etc. Puli's like any other breed are subject to skin irritations, whether it be from bacteria parasites, poor diet, or lack of proper grooming. By grooming and Checking your Puli every week you can usually spot any problem and get to work clearing it up before you have a major disaster on your hands. If you notice your Puli scratching at any time, stop and take a good look at the area he is digging at. Look over his body for signs of redness, fleas, flea dirt or pimples 1. If you see pus, pimples or red oozing spots you may want to see a vet immediately. 2. Nine times out of ten the scratching is due to fleas, even when you can't see any signs of them. I would first recommend that if you can't see any reason why the dog is scratching give him a good flea bath or wash and follow with a flea dip. 3. Sometimes even though the dog is on a good complete diet he may need additional supplements. If the coat appears dry and the skin has dry flakes or dry patches a combination of adding CORN OIL or LINATONE PLUS to his diet and using a good moisturizing shampoo and conditioner or oil rinse will help. Sometimes rubbing skin conditioner on the flaky spots will help. REMEMBER - shampoo left in the coat can cause many problens so rinse, rinse, rinse. I find that towards the fall and through the winter months the Puli needs additional fat in his diet. Perhaps due to the dryness in the house and the lower humidity outside, but suddenly he begins to scratch and you find nothing on the skin. I prefer to keep the Puli on one Brewers Yeast tablet daily. I know that many vets disagree that this can help prevent fleas but many people have had good luck. It does not prevent them entirely, but it can help. I also find that it is an excellent appetite booster and the additional B vitamins are good for coat and skin. Along with the brewers yeast I use LINATONE PLUS, the one with the added zinc. I start out with 1/3 the recommended dosage on the bottle and over a period of a few weeks work up to the amount suggested. Using both the brewers yeast and the Linatone year round is a good idea. Puli Book Page 32If you see fleas or dirt, you must wash the dog right away before they get worse. Use a good quality flea shampoo and follow the directions carefully. If fleas are a particular problem you may need to dip the dog on a 3 week schedule, again always following the instructions on the label. These chemicals are dangerous when not used properly. In addition you may need to use a flea bomb to eliminate the fleas from you home at the same time as you wash or dip. Sometimes Puli's scratch if they are dirty. In some cases it can be alleviated with a good bath and grooming. Sometimes you may see the dog digging at his neck or side of the head. Check his ears to be sure there are no hairs that may become matted and that the ear canal is free from wax or debris. Skin with flakes can either be too dry or too oily. Perhaps if you can't figure out what is making the dog miserable a trip to the vet is in order. If the coat appears greasy looking and you see flakes on the skin perhaps the conditioner you are using is too oily. Using a dandruff shampoo such as Selsun Blue or a dog shampoo especially formulated for oily skin will help. Dry coat and flakes may mean the dog could need a skin and coat oil added to his food and an oil bath. Never allow your Puli to scratch endlessly and only when terrible damage to his skin and coat has been done do you seek professional help. If you are planning a show career for your Puli you cannot expect to have a chance at winning with such damage to the coat. Also, it is very unfair to your Puli to suffer when it may only be something simple that can be easily corrected. If you have a Puli that does have allergies and gets skin irritations, be sure to consult with your Vet about the best way to treat these problems. Above all, if you have any grooming questions please feel free to call and ask. We'll be happy to help whenever we can. Puli Book Page 33Puli Coat care — an article written by Jennifer Whitton The Puli Club has set up @ support procedure for Puli owners requir! vice. The first port of call should ALWAYS be the breeder, but i is not possible please contact the Secretary whe will give you the name and phone number of the nearest experienced person for you to contact. Coat Development and Care By Jennifer Whitton iency in th it effect only coat wl The two. which is fi y mix‘we2017 Puli Coat care~an article writin by Jerife: Whitton ~The Hungarian Puli Club ie INanths the cords should start to appear generally, although there are probably some exceptions. depending on the coat type. At this stage it is important to check the cords remain separate from each other and from the coat that hasn't yet corded. This stage of coat development is the most difficult and usually lasts for months until the whole coat has developed into cords, Throughout this time the coat must be kept clean and the cords separate. The thickness of cords is somewhat variable; as they start to form, a certain size will be determined by the of coat each puppy has and it is not always wise to try to alter this. Neither is it necessary ta separate -ords that seem to be spilt just at the end. Puli owners have cone this only to find that the cards end up so fine that they break off. Both Puli and owner will benefit if preventative action is taken to keep the coat clean rather than bathing to0 often especially during winter. A long fully- where messy things tend to ded coat can be tied inte bunches away from the areas pen. They should be undone daily to check the skin and coat, then tied up again. Fabric bands or strips of fabric can be used but itis important to remember that anything applied to the dog in this way may also be eaten by it ‘The number of baths a Puli needs depends very much on its lifestyle. It is possible if a dog is kept reasonably clean to bath as little as four or five times a year, especially if the beard and rear end are rinsed regularly, Alternatively some dogs are impossible to live with unless bathed every few weeks. Show dogs should be bathed two to three days before a show, the exception being when shows are being held close together and one must be thoroughly dried, right down to the skin as quickly as possible after the bath. Pulis left to dry over a matter of days will soon begin to smell as the air will not circulate through a heavy corded coat Choosing a shampoo can be a bit confusing for the new owner as each product makes varying claims. A mild insecticidal shampoo such a . very good, it leaves the coat brigt nd the skin clean, although if a Puli actually has fleas it would be best to buy something a bit stronger from a veterinary centre. Itis never wise to use human type shampoo, washing up liquid or similar substances on any dog, For most Pulis, but especially for the fully coated, the bath should hold three or four inches of warm water to which has been added and mixed in @ small amount of sharnpoo. This will help clean the feet and ends of the coat while the rest of the dog is being bathed, Most shampoos work better if they are diluted before being applied. Care should be taken to use only warm water throughout the bath, and shampoo must not be allowed to get in the dogs eyes. Cotton wool can be put into the ears to prevent water getting in but should always be removed straight after the bath. A gentle massaging action should be used on the Pulis body but the cords can be squeezed, as when washing a woolly jumper! itis vital to rinse out all of the shampoo. This may take quite a time if Puli's coat gels matted, prompt action should be taken, if not the problem can only get WORSE. It is important to bear in mind that a matted coet will tighten even more if allowed to get wet or sometimes just damp. Some preventative measures can be taken. A heavy coated Puli can be carefully trimmed underneath, around the tricky bits and under the tail. Should the dog already have matted areas, possiblywooo? Pub Comtcarean ats y rie Whiten Te Hungarian PU Club on the ears, itis important to get experienced help as the matting miey reduce underlying flesh to die, The secre ood supply and cause the tohelp, if not, a vy of the Hungarian Puli Clu wv who Is available veterinary surgeon should be contacted, Be very wary of professional groomers who claim to know how to look after the Puli coat, very few actually do — you could end up with a plaited Pull not a corded one, or worse still, a shaved one. The Secretary of the Puli Club would be very happy to send copies of this leaflet to professional groomers who are interested in grooming a Pul To help produce and maintain a Puli coat teh work take place on selected days. Dur op @ routine whereby certain parts of the the more difficult times, approx 6-78 months, an hour or so, several days a week maybe necessary. Once the coat is going on well, one day a week may suffice, but doing it on the same day or days each week will help it to become a regular part of the Puls life and go a Jong way to preventing any serious problems occurring with the coat Pulis are not naturally social animals but a reputable breeder will have started the socialising process while the puppies are still in their whelping box. The single most important jab yau will have to do as the ‘owner of a new Pull puppy is to make sure that he has pleasant meetings with as many new people, other puppies and dogs of all ages as he can as early in his life as possible. For safety this means he has completed his course of vaccinations and the vet has said it is safe for him to mix with other dogs, although he can be taken to visit your friends and for trips in the car and so on, before that. When itis safe to do so you will need to take him out and about wherever you can, this cannot be stressed strangly enough, Remember, all new meetings should be enjoyable for your Puli puppy. They should be a rewarding experience for him Puppy classes, based on reward and run specifically for baby puppies from 12 weeks to around 16/18 weeks are ideal and you should be able to find one in your area. It is a good idea to make enquiries about classes before you actually bring your puppy home so you will be ready to start as soon as its safe to take him out. Another important aspect of a Puli puppy's development you should be aware of is habituation, or becoming used to unfamiliar things and new environments. This means that as well as being exposed to people and other dogs, your puppy should become comfortable with all the sites and sounds he will encounter on a daily basis. A reputable breeder will have already gotten the puppy used te the sounds round the house: TV, radio, washing machine, vacuum cleaner etc and possibly noises encountered in the garden, You will gradually have to expose him to other sights and sounds, such as cars, lorries, prams, bikes etc. For country puppies, expos ire to farm machinery and livestock is also important. Exposure to all these things as soon as possible is vital in ensuring that your puppy is able to cope with his, experiences and be unfazed by new ones. A high level of socialisation and habituation should be a priority during your Puli puppy's first year and for the rest of his life but is particularly important while he is very young,