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© Lonely Planet Publications

271

Noord Brabant &


Limburg
The Dutch southeast belies most clichés about the Netherlands: tulips, windmills and dykes
are scarce. Noord Brabant is primarily a land of agriculture and industry peppered with a few
pleasant towns, including Den Bosch. It’s also home to the Netherlands’ most popular tourist
draw, De Efteling theme park, and the biggest street fair in Benelux, the Tilburgse Kermis.

Meanwhile, Limburg is home to beautiful Maastricht, contender for the title of Finest
Dutch City, as well as – drum roll – hills. It also hosts Europe’s biggest art sale, the European
Fine Art Foundation show.

Neither province has its roots in the asceticism of the north, a fact made obvious during
carnaval, when the streets fill with fireworks, bands and impromptu parties. And both prov-
inces’ proximity to Belgium and all those indulgent Catholic monasteries – most of which
doubled as excellent microbreweries – mean there are many chances to imbibe.

NOORD BRABANT
In fact, the Dutch call the southeastern lifestyle bourgondisch: like the epicurean

& LIMBURG
inhabitants of Burgundy in France, people in these parts love to eat and drink heartily.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Thrill to the rarefied vibe in Maastricht Den Bosch

(p278), a world apart from the north. Breda

„ Scare yourself silly in the tunnels at Sint


Eindhoven
Pietersberg (p280).
„ Take it easy in laid-back Den Bosch (p272).
„ Admire European modern art at Eindhoven’s
Stedelijk Van Abbemuseum (p274).
„ Do the day-trip thing in lovely Breda (p275).
Maastricht
&
Sint Pietersberg
Tunnels

272 N O O R D B R A B A N T • • D e n B o s c h ( ‘ s - H e r t o g e n b o s c h ) www.lonelyplanet.com Book
w w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
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NOORD BRABANT & LIMBURG 0


0
30 km
20 miles
Information Take the opportunity to climb the 73m
E19 To Amsterdam A28 To Zwolle To Apeldoorn
Bosch Medicentrum (%699 20 00; Nieuwstraat 34) tower (admission €3.50), with its carillon and great
Den Haag
(The Hague)
(30km)
Utrecht (90km) A30 (12km)
Regional hospital. views.
A12
Nieuwegein
A12 A50 GELDERLAND Library (%612 30 33; Hinthamerstraat 72; internet per The Stadhuis (town hall) was given its clas-
Monster
Hoek van
Oudewater Arnhem hr €3; hnoon-4pm Mon, Tue-Sat 11am-8pm) sical baroque appearance in 1670. There’s a
E25 Lek
Holland Post office (Kerkstraat 67; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, statue of Hieronymus Bosch at the front of
E25 E35
ROTTERDAM A325 9am-2pm Sat) the building.
Waal
A15
A2
Woudrichem
Tourist office (%09001122334; www.regio-vvv.nl; The Noordbrabants Museum (%687 78 77; www
ZUID
HOLLAND
A15 Maas Markt 77; h1-6pm Mon, 9.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am- .noordbrabantsmuseum.nl; Verwersstraat 41; adult/child
Zaltbommel Nijmegen
Dordrecht 5pm Sat) €6.50/3.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat), in the
To
A27 Oss Oberhausen 18th-century former governor’s residence,
A29 A16 A50 (59km)
E19 E311
A59
Cuijk
Sights & Activities features a sculpture garden and exhibits about
A4
Willemstad Den Bosch
A77 The main attraction is Sint Janskathedraal Brabant life and art, including drawings and
A261
A59 To Duisburg
(47km)
(%613 03 14; www.sint-jan.nl; Choorstraat 1; admission other work by Bosch.
Breda A73
A17 free; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun), one of Boat tours leave from the canal by Sint Janss-
A2 Overloon
To Middelburg
Roosendaal E312 Tilburg the finest churches in the Netherlands. It took ingel. Check the tourist office for times.
Venray
(32km)
Zundert
A58 E25 from 1336 to 1550 to complete, and there’s
Bergen
op Zoom
NOORD
Helmond
To
an interesting contrast between the red-brick Sleeping
E312 BRABANT Eindhoven Duisburg
(38km)
tower and the ornate stone buttresses. The Hotel Terminus (%613 06 66; fax 613 07 26; Boschveldweg
A67 interior is also of interest, with late-Gothic 15; s/d €31/60) As its name suggests, it’s close
A4 E34 Venlo
N1 A67

ὈὈ
stained-glass windows, an impressive statue to the station. The simple, brightly coloured
ZEELAND A2
of the Madonna, and an amazing organ case rooms are decent enough, plus there’s an
A12 A1 LIMBURG from the 17th century. appealing bar (well, the owners call it a ‘folk
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
To Mönchengladbach
Turnhout (10km) Unfortunately, Protestants destroyed the pub’) and regular live folk music.
E25
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
A21
Roermond cathedral’s paintings in 1566. Thankfully, two Hotel Euro (%613 77 77; www.eurohotel-denbosch
Thorn
N69 by Bosch remain. .com; Kerkstraat 56; s/d from €65/85) This business hotel
Antwerpen
l
naa

A11

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
aka

0 500 m
DEN BOSCH
ian

0 0.3 miles
Jul

N71
A14 N74 GERMANY
A B C D De IJzeren
BELGIUM A2 Prins Vrouw

n
A12 A1 Hendrikpark

aa
e
A76 tr

kad
gs

ell
A3 Heerlen u

d
Br

els
INFORMATION

ta
nd

Ci
A79

Boschveldweg
Kerkrade Bosch Medicentrum.............1 C1

Ha
Emmapl
Maastricht To Aachen 1 Jan Z
Leuven Valkenburg Hein Zu uid- Library.................................2 C2
(7km) s Str Zu id-W W
Brussel id- i illem Post Office...........................3 C2

De Dommel
Havensingel

Buitenhaven

Smalle Haven
nenlaan
W llem sv Tourist Information..............4 B2
ille s aa

tr
A2 Margraten

els
ms vaa rt

k
Chr H va rt

erc
Drielandenpunt uygen a

Koningin
rt SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

nB
sweg
To Luik (Liège)

str

Va
11 1 Aa
Bosch Statue........................ 5 B2

ug
(18km) De
Kard V Noordbrabants Museum...... 6 C2

lbr
train Rossumpl

To
16 station Stationspl Stationsweg St Janskathedraal.................7 C2
19

wstr
Visstr Stadhuis...............................8 B2

Ho enwe
DEN BOSCH (‘S-HERTOGENBOSCH)

Ste
Lepelstr
NOORD BRABANT

og g
ulaan

Nieu
e Pe
18 13


ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈ

20 4 SLEEPING
%073 / pop 134,000

Nassa

Karr
Eerste All Inn.................................9 C2

nsma
Kruis
This sweet old town has a top-notch church,

gel
Korenstr

enstr
Markt Hintham 2 15 Hotel Euro.........................10 C2
erstr

rkt
str
ssin
nlaan

2 Hotel Terminus...................11 A1

tr
The Netherlands’ largest province spans the a good museum, outstanding cafés and

Gassels
5

Sne
r
Julianapl

t Jan

Postelst
r 9 10 Hintham

rkt -
t
ins

ma apen
istrate

llest
17 erstr

Clarastr
bottom of the country from the waterlogged restaurants, and atmospheric streets that eg 8 nte EATING

Sin
Fo 14

r
7

Sch
Kerkstr

Torenstr
Het
yw
r Café 't Bonte Palet...........(see 17)
west to the elevated east. The towns here have make for plenty of enjoyable strolling. The Choorstr
Mag

12 te
eg
Ach dhuis
Ma

Sta Compas.............................12 B2
gsw
Parade

l
ge
3
mostly transformed from wealthy medieval official name of the town is ’s-Hertogen-
sin
De Raadskelder..................(see 8)
nin

ois
Lange Putstr De Truffel...........................13 B2
leb

an
Ko

fiefdoms to laid-back shopping, student and bosch (Duke’s Forest), but locals call it Den

ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
6

Peperstr

lla
Wil

Triniteitstr
Ve
r D'Orient Üskudar..............14 C2

ke
rst

rw
es s De

tourism precincts. Den Bosch is the main city Bosch (den boss). It’s the birthplace of the Restaurant Nescio..............15 C2

He
te

e rss
gh
e
al
Do

Vu Restaurant PuntNL.............16 A2

tr
tw

and, along with Breda, is an interesting place well-known 15th-century painter Hierony-
er
nD

Bastion
to spend the day. mous Bosch, who took his surname from Sp
Va

inh ENTERTAINMENT
Baselaar

Pe
n uis De Muzerije.......................17 C2

tte
aa wa
Despite its size, Noord Brabant won’t hold the town. ark
l

laa
Willenpl P cht l wal Baselaarspark
Zuid

rse
3 gra Bastion
you up. It’s primarily a land of agriculture gel TRANSPORT

we
Sin

g
Oranje Boat Tours..........................18 B2
and industry, peppered with a few towns Orientation Wilhelminapl
Bus Information.................19 A2
Bus Station.........................20 A2
pleasant and engaging enough to use as way The town’s pedestrianised centre is based
stations on your pilgrimage to Limburg or around the Markt, 600m east of the train Bastion
Vught
beyond. station.
274 N O O R D B R A B A N T • • E i n d h o v e n Book accommodation
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is part of a chain, but it’s still got a certain Other options: Thu). With a wonderful, first-rate collection of by the emergence of newer competitors such
degree of warmth, even if the rooms are draped De Raadskelder (%613 69 19; Markt 1A; hTue-Sat 20th-century paintings – including works by as Flevoland’s Six Flags.
in chintzy corporate pastels. The location is 10.30am-5pm, dinner Sun 5.30-10.30pm) A 16th-century Picasso, Chagall and Kandinsky – it almost, All the usual suspects are here: huge, scary
central and next to a warren of great cafés and Gothic cellar kitchen/restaurant right under the town hall. but not quite, matches the greatness of the rides, walk-through entertainment with ani-
eating houses. The ambience is nothing short of inspirational. Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam or the Boi- matronic robot models, scenes from popular
All Inn (%613 40 57; Gasselstraat 1; s/d from €35/50; D’ Orient Üskudar (%614 20 20; Verwersstraat 3; jmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam. stories and fairy tales, live shows performed
hclosed Aug & carnaval) On the lovably shabby but mains €8-15; hdinner) Great Turkish food; lots of goats There’s a unique nightlife district, Het Stra- by ‘talent’, sticky hands, crying kids…
clean side. Note: midnight curfew. cheese throughout. tumseind, where more than 30 cafés, bars and There’s on-site accommodation – the web-
restaurants within a single stretch of street site provides full details.
Eating & Drinking Entertainment make it one of the most concentrated such To get to De Efteling, take bus 136 or 137
Try the local speciality, a heart-failure calorie- De Muzerije (%614 10 84; Hinthamerstraat 74) This areas in the country. There are many options, from Tilburg or Den Bosch train station.
fest known as the Bossche bol (Den Bosch ball). all-in-one venue features different kinds of and obviously bar-hopping is easy to do.
It’s a chocolate-coated cake the size of a soft- theatre, dance and film. Eindhoven Airport (www.eindhovenairport.nl) is BREDA
ball, filled with sweetened cream. 6km west of the centre, and aimed at busi- %076 / pop 167,908
De Truffel (%614 27 42; www.detruffel.com; Kruisstraat Getting There & Around ness travellers. Lovely Breda has a wealth of attractions: inter-
37; mains €10-25; hdinner) Located in a restored The train station is new and brimming with The train station is at a junction of lines to esting streets, flower-filled parks and a stun-
warehouse, De Truffel serves top-notch Medi- services, including a good grocery store aimed Amsterdam, Maastricht and Rotterdam. ning main church. Its present peace belies
terranean food in a relaxed atmosphere. Try at travellers. Lockers are on the concourse Sample fares and schedules: its turbulent past, where its proximity to the
this: whole roasted trout with browned al- over the tracks. Sample fares and schedules: Belgian border meant it has been overrun by
monds and a stuffed potato. Now that’s atten- Destination Price Duration Frequency invading armies many times.
tion to detail you don’t see everywhere. Destination Price Duration Frequency (€) (min) (per hr) The town centre is 500m south of the station
Restaurant Nescio (%610 09 00; www.nescio (€) (min) (per hr) through the large, leafy park, the Valkenberg.
-restaurant.nl; Hinthamerstraat 80; dishes from €4; hdinner) Amsterdam 16.70 90 2 There are two tourist offices (www.vvvbreda.nl;
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
Nescio only serves appetisers, the idea being Amsterdam 12.70 60 2 Maastricht 14.10 80 2 Grote Markt %09005222444; Grote Markt 38; h10.30am-
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
to emphasise taste via concentrated, small Maastricht 18.00 90 1 Rotterdam 15.30 70 2 5.30pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am-5pm Sat; Willemstraat
portions, as well as the notion that to sample Nijmegen 6.80 30 4 %09005222444; Willemstraat 17; h1-6pm Mon, 9am-
several experiences is preferable than one Utrecht 7.50 30 4 TILBURG 6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) and a post office (%522 55
main one. Try fancies such as the ‘preserved %013 / pop 198,000 20; Willemstraat 30; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm
Oriental duck bolts’ or ask the chef for a ‘wild Buses leave from the area to the right as you With one of the highest ratios of students in Sat) further down from the Willemstraat
card’: be sure to tell him your boundaries exit the station. the Netherlands (almost 15% of the popula- tourist office.
(no bulls’ penises, for example) and let him A bicycle shop is located below the station. tion), you’d expect a more progressive vibe.
surprise you. But Tilburg, a former textile town, is in flux, Sights & Activities
Compas (%614 20 20; Postelstraat 79; mains €12-18; EINDHOVEN now that the mills have closed due to foreign The Valkenberg (Falcon Mountain) is the huge
hlunch & dinner) Perched on a little square a few %040 / pop 209,286 competition, and its centre bears the scars of park between the station and the centre. Hunt-
streets behind the Markt, this is a very charm- A mere village in 1900, Eindhoven grew ex- unfortunate 1960s urban renewal schemes ing falcons were trained here for royalty. On
ing and classy little option. Expect Mediter- ponentially thanks to Philips, founded here (think East Berlin). the south side is the 12th-century Begijnhof,
ranean food with an oh-so-delectable flourish in 1891. During the 1990s the electronics People generally make a beeline to Tilburg a home that sheltered unmarried women.
and sense of panache. giant found it was having trouble recruit- in the middle of July, when the Tilburgse Kermis Breda has wonderfully preserved examples of
Restaurant puntNL (%623 44 55; www.restaurant ing employees to work in its home town; it (Tilburg Fair; www.tilburgsekermis.com) takes place for these homes, which were found throughout
puntnl.nl; Magistratenlaan 100; mains €7-15; hlunch Tue- solved the problem by moving to Amsterdam, close to two weeks. Basically an enormous the Netherlands.
Sun) If this relaxed place was any more Dutch, although its research and engineering arms street party, it’s a massive celebration of street The Breda castle is worth a quick look
it’d rust. Try local favourites such as roasted remain here. That sums up the fortunes of this fair and street fare. Rides, beer, bad music, (though note that you can’t go inside); ap-
aubergine with sugary stroop (syrup), grated huge industrial town: while it’s not the most sugary treats, stalls offering stuffed prizes for proach from the south and you’ll also see the
radish, chopped chives and giant shrimp – just thrilling place, it’s not without merits. games of ‘skill’… It’s the biggest fair in Benelux, Spanjaardsgat (Spanish gate), a reminder of
the kind of taste clash that is favoured here. Electronics aside, Eindhoven is best known and for that reason alone it’s remarkable. just one of the various incursions the town
Wash it down with jenever (Dutch gin) or for its football team, PSV, who routinely dom- has endured.
elderberry juice and you’ll be wearing clogs inate the national league. DE EFTELING The Grote Kerk (admission €2; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat,
in no time. There’s a tourist office (%297 91 00; www Near Tilburg, in the unassuming town of Kaats- 1-5pm Sun) recently emerged from years of resto-
Café ‘t Bonte Palet (%613 25 32; Hinthamerstraat .vvveindhoven.nl; Stationsplein 17; h10am-5.30pm Mon, heuvel, is De Efteling (%0416-288 111; www.efteling ration, its now-gleaming white stones free of
97) Talk about quirky: the front window of 9am-5.30pm Tue-Thu, 9am-6.30pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) next .nl; Europalaan 1, Kaatsheuvel; admission €26; h10am-6pm grime. This beautiful Gothic church was built
this little hole-in-the-wall bar is stuffed with to the train station. Apr-Oct, until 9pm 10 Jul-27 Aug), the biggest domestic between the 15th and 17th centuries.
all kinds of trinkets including miniature car- Eindhoven’s main attraction is the excel- tourist attraction in the Netherlands. This
illons, toy cars, tiny theatrical sets, and the lent Stedelijk Van Abbemuseum (%275 52 75; www ‘Dutch Disneyland’ pulls more than three Festivals & Events
crowning glory: an Asterix triptych. There’s .vanabbemuseum.nl; Bilderdijklaan 10; adult/child under 12 million visitors annually, proving its 40-year The Bloemencorso (www.bloemencorsozundert.nl) is a
sometimes live music. €8.50/free; h11am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, until 9pm history as a family favourite is undiminished huge annual parade of gorgeously decorated,
276 N O O R D B R A B A N T • • B re d a Book accommodation
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BREDA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Hotel van Ham (%521 52 29; hotel.van.ham@hetnet Mezz (%515 66 77; www.mezz.nl; Keizerstraat 101)
.nl; Van Coothplein 23; s/d €45/65) John and Sylvia This armadillo-shaped nightclub has a great
A B C train station D To Hotel de
Fabriek (500m) van Hooydonk are the proud proprietors of bar and cool staff to match its eclectic pro-

M. Verhoeffstr
Spoorstr
this charming hotel, which is also home to a gramme – everything from drum ’n’ bass

Emmastr
3 2

Willemstr
11 ge
l delightful café-restaurant. It’s in a building nights to Latin swing and rock.
Academies sin
ingel at
1
De
lpr that’s been a prominent meeting point for Kerkplein (www.kerkpleinbreda.nl) A bangin’ club,
el
ger
we
g
gs
ing more than 100 years. The rooms are OK, but located right behind the Grote Kerk on Kerk-
Slin eli
el
Se the bar is grand. plein, that stays open well into the morning.
g
sin Hotel de Fabriek (%581 00 08; Speelhuislaan 150;
NW
am Soph

E.
Tr iastr
s/d €65/80) This is a laid-back, quiet place with Getting There & Around
Pr
in
s
en
5 comfortable rooms. The train station has all the usual services.
ka

an
de
7 Valkenberg

y La
n
ell
aa Some fares and schedules:
idd
Eating

ed
M str

nn
h
Cingelstr sc

Ke
Bo
v.Be
rgenstr Sultan Lounge (%520 30 50; www.sultanlounge.nl; Haven Destination Price Duration Frequency

an
Kraan

JF
Adr.

Plein
Kaats 13

erla
2 Vi
10; mains €11-18; hdinner) OK, you know what (€) (min) (per hr)

Scho
sm Baan 4

ost
ark Catharinastr
str Reigerstr to expect with a name like this. An ‘Arabian
olstr

Klo
Havermarkt

Ann
6
9 Nights’ feel spread over two floors is reflected Amsterdam 18 110 4
tr

16

astr
plein Grote
Vissers

Kerk
INFORMATION 17 Markt
tstr in the décor and the attitude: the ground Den Bosch 6.80 33 2
ATM........................................1 C3 mark
Lange Brugstr Vee floor has tables and chairs, upstairs has cush- Roosendaal 5 17 2
Post Office...............................2 D1
Schors

Karr

Claud
str
Weerijssingel

Tourist Office...........................3 D1
Jan
ius Pri
nsen ions and a lounge. Eat your Middle Eastern Rotterdam 8.50 32 3
estr

Tourist Office......................(see 17) tr St laan


ers
Mole

ὈὈ
Ni
Rid
d kebabs, tapas, tajines (slow cooked stews),
Ma

eu Ha
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES w 15
dolmades and spiced, stuffed aubergines on Buses leave from the area to the right as you
n

str
rke

lstr
1
Eind

Begijnhof.................................4 C2
n

Da
either level. exit the station.

Ch
Breda Castle.............................5 C2 als
str

as
NOORD BRABANT

ew
Oude

NOORD BRABANT
k

s
Grote eg
3 oij Kerk...............................6 C2 t
Chocolat (%533 59 75; Torenstraat 9; mains €15-30;

é
tmark A bicycle shop is right next to the station.

Pr
ag
Spanjaardsgat.......................... 7 C2 Oede va Karnemelk Hou
Ha

om
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
n Hoornestr
hlunch & dinner) Part of the Hotel Bliss com- For information on a 52km bicycle route,

en
llen

rstr

Nonn

ad
SLEEPING Akke

e
plex (opposite), Chocolat is as classy as the the Baronie Route, which begins and ends at
e Sta
Ginnek

8
Golden Tulip Keyser Breda.......8 D3 nve
e ld
accommodation, with its Frenchified menu Breda, see p73.
at Markendaalseweg

Lang

Hotel Bliss................................9 C2

ὈὈ
enstr

Hotel van Ham......................10 C4


delivering the goods: hares, truffles and cro-
r De

Pension Singel........................11 D1 Co
en

n
SLOT LOEVESTEIN
rstr
eld

Fell
quettes feature prominently, as does veal and
Achte
co

eno
isv

erk
rdia

Keize

EATING ord
u

Doelst 18
l
olw

ge
fine wine. Near the tiny, beautiful little walled town of
th

str

l
str

ge
Al Dente................................ 12 C4
s

sin
Ga

tB

sin
se

14 in
Café De Beyerd..................... 13 D2 Restaurant Bukowski (%529 75 55; www.restaurant Woudrichem you’ll find the 14th-century
He

ple
ina
as

Seelig
Irenstra

h Vi
Ch

Chocolat................................(see 9) ot
elm

Kazerne Van er
Co bukowski.nl; Halstraat 21A; mains €16-22; hlunch & dinner) castle, Slot Loevestein (%0183-44 71 71; www.slotloeve
lo str

Gong.....................................14 C4 10 W
ilh

in
W

de
4
Nieuwe Gi

Restaurant Bukowski..............15 C3 Wilhelmina


Bukowski’s slick haute cuisine is a real treat, stein.nl; Loevestein 1; adult/child €6.30/4.80; h 10am-
er

i
Dr v M n
W Park
Sultan Lounge........................16 B2 12 r ilh
rst
Van
Go o
elm
in
ap
presented in an informal, though elegant set- 5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun May-Sep; 1-5pm Sat, Sun &
ENTERTAINMENT ar ting. The duck breast, pan fried and served with Wed Oct-Apr). The ancient keep is wonderfully
nnekenstr

Kerkplein...............................17 C2 k
Mezz.....................................18 C4
To Camping
a vegetable purée of beets, artichoke and carrots evocative, perhaps more so for the difficulty
Liesbos (8km)
plus honey-thyme sauce, is a clear winner. involved in getting there. It’s been a prison,
Café De Beyerd (%521 42 65; www.beyerd.nl; residence and toll castle, though more recently
multicoloured floats – each one of them MIDRANGE Boschstraat 26; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue) The Beyerd it has hosted a varied calendar of cultural
constructed entirely from flowers – that Hotel Bliss (%533 59 80; www.blisshotel.nl; Torenstraat 9; is a highly regarded beer café, with more events (check the website). It’s best accessed
passes through the streets of Zundert, 20km ste from €112.50) This funky new designer hotel than 122 brews. It’s also the perfect place to by the ferry from Woudrichem, which stops
southwest of Breda. It takes place in early is head and shoulders above the rest of the try some bitterballen (small crumbed, deep- right out front.
September. Breda competition. The spacious, comfort- fried pureed meatballs) or other typical beer-
able suites are filled with the kind of interior- accompanying snacks. WEST NOORD BRABANT
Sleeping design touches that will make you feel like a Other options: Near the border with Zeeland, Noord Brabant
BUDGET mover and shaker: interesting art; angles and Al Dente (%520 43 33; Nieuwe Ginnekenstraat 20; mains more closely resembles its soggy neighbour:
Camping Liesbos (%514 35 14; www.camping-liesbos.nl; planes; retro-futurism bisected with industrial €11-18; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Excellent canals and rivers crisscross the land, and every-
Liesdreef 40; sites €8; hApr-Oct) If you’re a camper, chic; bold reds mixed with deep browns. Italian fare. thing is absolutely flat.
this place is your best bet. Take bus 10 or 111 Golden Tulip Keyser Breda (%520 51 73; www.hotel Gong (%521 66 96; www.restaurantgong.nl; Van Roosendaal is a major rail junction for lines
(direction: Etten-Leur) to the Boswachterij keyser.nl; Keizerstraat 5; r from €79) Although it’s part of a Coothplein 24; mains €16-20; hdinner) Great Asian and north to Rotterdam, south to Belgium, east to
Liesbos stop. chain, the Golden Tulip Keyser Breda (say that Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. Breda and west to Zeeland.
Pension Singel (%521 62 71; pensionsingel@planet.nl; 10 times fast after a few ales) sets itself apart by Bergen op Zoom was plundered at various times
Delpratsingel 14; per person €25) Simple but charming its attentive staff – its strongest asset. Rooms Entertainment by the Spanish, French and even the British. The
singles and doubles. It’s a short walk from are standard business-hotel types, with all the There’s a concentration of places around the results are a hodgepodge of buildings and styles.
the station. trimmings. Prices plunge on weekends. Havermarkt, mostly of varying quality. It’s an unremarkable place except for one week
278 L I M B U R G • • M a a s t r i c h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L I M B U R G • • M a a s t r i c h t 279

ingel

g
a year. If you want to see the aftermath of a way by rail or road to Belgium, you’d be doing

l
HEUGEMERVELD
eg

John F Kennedysinge
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annens

0.3 miles


ὈὈ Ὀ

ὈὈ Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈ
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real party, show up on the Wednesday after yourself a disservice to bypass this wonder-

Ziekenhuis Maastricht
em
Blo

To Academisch
Scha
Shrove Tuesday. Bergen op Zoom’s carnaval is ful town.

(500m)
the most raucous west of Maastricht, drawing se P
oort
Duit
revellers from throughout Europe who basically Orientation

F
go on a four-day bender. The centre of Maastricht is quite compact,

net

rs tr
station

CÉRAMIQUE
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train

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ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
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side is known as Wyck, and to the south of here
LIMBURG

N278
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Renie
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is Céramique. It’s about 750m from the train Para

Stationsstr
station to the Vrijthof, the cultural heart.

n
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the hilly south. There are all sorts of amusing BOOKSHOPS l idlunet

21
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Plein 1992
WYCK
n
notices on the A2 motorway into Maastricht Plantage Boekhandel (%321 08 25; Nieuwstraat 9) kke

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that would be considered mere humps in

St Maarten
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28 29 30
other countries. INTERNET ACCESS Ma
weg
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RomFrancisc
Centre Céramique (%350 56 00; Ave Céramique 50; Stenen
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25
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MAASTRICHT Oeverwal

14
free internet; h10.30am-8.30pm Tue & Thu, 10.30am-

laan
St Servaasbrug
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Stadspark
Wilhelminabrug
%043 / pop 121,573 5pm Wed & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) Contains the oule

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Make no bones about it: Maastricht is utterly library, as well as earthenware displays and a scale model

St Lam
beautiful. The Crown Jewel of the south – of Maastricht.

35
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maybe even the entire country – it’s about Maaspro

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Plankstr
NOORD BRABANT

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NOORD BRABANT
kade

Nolenspark fflaan
16

tr
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Jodenstr
as far from windmills, clogs and tulips as MEDICAL SERVICES

ns

VILLAPARK
Stadhuisstr

ne
8
Hoenderstr
33
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
erho
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slaan

gij
r

Vrouweplein
you’d want. Much of the Netherlands has a Academisch Ziekenhuis Maastricht (%387 65 43;

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Hey
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‘samey’ feel to it, but here there are Span- P Debyelaan 25) A huge academic hospital just east of the Kle aat

Bredestr
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French and Belgian twists in the architecture, str
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a shrugging off of the shackles of Dutch re- POST

Nieuwenho
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des
26

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To St Pietersberg
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Bre
straint. Even the landscape’s different: there Post office (%329 91 99; Statenstraat 4; h9am-6pm en

13

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19
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(1.5km)
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mountains ringing the centre. Unsurprisingly, Stationsstraat 60. oie

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many locals see themselves as a sophisticated tenst B ouillons

24
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Sta

11
Luke

31

P r ins
10
breed apart from the north; by the same token, TOURIST INFORMATION

22
4

Stiphout Cruises.........................35 D1
Klooster

Bus Station..................................34 F1
earthy northerners see posh Maastricht as Tourist office (%325 21 21; www.vvvmaastricht.nl; en
str
St Servaas
ijn
having an identity crisis – are these people Kleine Staat 1; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, uc

tr
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Dutch or what? 11am-3pm Sun) erw

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Jek

N278
Brusselse Str

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Spanning both banks of the Maas river, A bts
tr

with a host of pavement cafés and lovely old Sights & Activities

ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
18
k
wij
cobblestone streets, Maastricht is renowned Maastricht’s many delights are scattered along

Kruisherengang

riestr

Maastricht (3km)

ns
Bru

TRANSPORT
for world-class dining and an elegant atmos- both banks of the Maas, but it’s always a pleas- tr

Restaurant O..............................25 E2 Waldeckpark


a
ss

an
To Stayokay

Tongersepl
Calv
B nu

nV
ke
be
phere that’s exquisitely addictive. Hemmed ant stroll from one side to the other. There’s so l

Laa
Je
ge r
sin He
in between Belgium and Germany, it has much historical information to digest around en
ta
t
S Jek
erst
r

a pan-European flavour: the average citi- the Vrijthof while strolling the beautiful streets D1

D1

D3
D2

D3

D2

D1

Night Live..................................33 D1
C1

C2
C2
C2

C1

C1

C1

C2
23 C2
Restaurant Jean La TBrouche.......24 C2

Take Five...................................26 C2

In Den Ouden Vogelstruys.........27 C2

Cinema Lumiere.........................31 C1
Matuchi...................................(see 20)
r

B2
l
E2

E1

E3

E3

E2

E3

John Mullins...............................28 E1

Take One....................................29 E1
Zondag.......................................30 E1

Derlon Theater...........................32 E3
s st ge

N278
zen bounces easily between Dutch, English, winding through and around it. There are also str
St N
icola gsin

k
rto

Za
Centre Céramique........................1
Plantage Boekhandel....................2
Post Office....................................3
Post Office...................................4
Tourist Office...............................5

Bonnefantenmuseum....................6
7
8
Ramparts......................................9
Sint Janskerk..............................10
Sint Servaasbasiliek....................11
Spanish Government Museum...12

Minckelers..............................13

str 14
15
16
Hotel la Colombe.......................17
Kruisherenhotel Maastricht.........18
Maison Du Chêne......................19
Matuchi.....................................20

Beluga........................................21
22
He weg
nlaan

Helpoort......................................
Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek..........
Elisabeth Strouve
French, German and Flemish (maybe more). some great museums and remnants of the

Hotel & Tapperij De Poshoorn....


der

Mestizo......................................
Botel Maastricht.........................

Hotel Derlon..............................

Ginger.......................................
la n

g
es

we
gen
Appropriately, the city hosted two key moments medieval city in the Wyck district.

Koningin
Bi

Emmapl

erse
Vlie
Statue of Johannes Petrus
MAASTRICHT

in the history of the EU: on 10 December

lem

ong
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Wil
1991, the 12 members of the then European BONNEFANTENMUSEUM

ENTERTAINMENT
Community met to sign the treaty for eco- The Bonnefantenmuseum (%329 01 90; www.bonne
INFORMATION
A

nomic, monetary and political union; they fantenmuseum.nl; Ave Céramique 250; adult/child under 12yr

DRINKING
SLEEPING

EATING
reconvened the following February to sign €7/3.50; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) features a 28m tower
the treaty creating the EU. that’s now a local landmark. Designed by
No Netherlands itinerary is complete with- Aldo Rossi, the museum opened in 1995,
2

3
1

4
out visiting Maastricht. If you’re heading this and is well laid-out with collections divided
280 L I M B U R G • • M a a s t r i c h t www.lonelyplanet.com wBook
w waccommodation
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com L I M B U R G • • M a a s t r i c h t 281

into departments, each on its own floor: Old The statue at the north end of the Markt is of
Masters and medieval sculpture are on one Johannes Petrus Minckelers, who holds a flaming GOING UNDERGROUND
floor, contemporary art by Limburg artists on rod – he’s the chap who invented gas light. The Romans developed the Sint Pietersberg tunnels by quarrying soft marlstone at a painstaking
the next. A dramatic sweep of stairs beckons The busy pedestrian Sint Servaasbrug dates rate of just four blocks per day, creating an underground system that provided refuge during the
visitors to both floors. from the 13th-century and links Maastricht’s numerous occasions when Maastricht found itself under attack. During WWII, for example, the tun-
Space is devoted to special exhibitions and centre with the Wyck district. nels housed a well, a storeroom, a chapel, a kitchen and a bakery – even a pen for livestock.
shows, of which there are usually four annu- The component called the Northern Corridor System Tunnels is an amazing feat of pre-industrial
ally, two following classical/historical themes, FORTIFICATIONS engineering: at one stage there were 20,000 separate passages, adding up to a length of 200km
two on more contemporary material. It also At the end of Sint Bernardusstraat, the Hel- and stretching past the Belgian border – until the French blew up a large chunk of it, thinking
espouses an ongoing commitment to solo poort is the oldest surviving town gate in they were under the Roman fort of Sint Pietersberg. Instead, the French army only succeeded in
exhibitions by young and emerging artists, the Netherlands (1229). The remains of 13th- entombing hundreds of their own men. There are prehistoric fossils of fish and other creatures
and is the patron of the major biannual Vin- century ramparts and fortifications are across down here, a reminder of an inland sea that once held sway.
cent Van Gogh Award for Contemporary Art the Maas in the new Céramique district. Walking through the tunnels is an eerie experience and you’ll feel a deep chill, not only from
in Europe. Temporary exhibitions are revela- Much of Maastricht is riddled with defensive fear of ghosts but also because it’s extremely cold and dark, perfect for growing mushrooms –
tory, such as the recent ‘Travellin’ Light’ show, tunnels dug into the soft sandstone over the which some people do. People hiding down here during sieges would often die of exposure.
focusing on Dadaist lineages. centuries. The best place to see the tunnels One of the most fascinating aspects of the tunnels is the graffiti from throughout the ages.
From 2006 until 2008, while Amsterdam’s is Sint Pietersberg, a Roman fort 2km south You can see generations of drawings on the walls, everything from ancient Roman stick figures to
Rijksmuseum is undergoing renovation, the of Helpoort. This is a really beautiful area, wartime depictions of movie stars like Bette Davis, to ‘70s hippy nudes (the tunnels were barred
Bonnefantenmuseum will display Rijksmu- pastoral and peaceful – the fort is an arresting from general access from the ‘80s on, before Dutch rappers could lay down some murals).
seum classics from the southern Netherlands, sight peeking over the charming hillside – The VVV guides like to play little tricks, asking your permission first to ensure you won’t
Antwerp and Bruges. and it’s a very relaxing walk from town. If completely freak out. A favourite is to take your gas light away from you – the guide then walks
you must, take bus 29, which goes past the around a bend until they and all available light completely disappears into a black hole. You
VRIJTHOF fort from Vrijthof. are then left in the stillest, thickest, heaviest darkness imaginable – a blackness you can literally
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
The large square of Vrijthof is surrounded The Romans built the Northern Corridor feel. You are then asked to make your way to the guide, using your sense of touch to follow
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
by lively cafés and cultural institutions. It’s System Tunnels (see the boxed text, opposite) the curves of the wall.
dominated by Sint Servaasbasiliek (admission €2; throughout the hills over a period of 2000 As our favourite guide, Kitty, loves to relate, this little game can make grown men cry. When
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, Sun Nov-Mar), a pastiche of years; at one stage, the tunnels extended under a Swedish, all-male TV crew filming a documentary on the tunnels took up the dare, Kitty took
architecture dating from 1000. the Netherlands–Belgium border. Thirteen away all the lights and disappeared around a corner, asking them to feel their way around the
Sint Janskerk is a small 17th-century Gothic species of bats have been found living below bend. But they couldn’t do it and all three broke down in tears.
church, one of the most beautiful in the the surface. ‘But once you were mighty Vikings’ Kitty admonished, ‘and now you cry like babies.’
Netherlands. A remarkable red colour, it The tourist office leads spooky, thrilling,
photographs beautifully. Climb to the top and educational cave tours (%321 78 78; €3;
(€1.15) for gorgeous views. h3.30pm daily Jul-Aug & school holidays) – this ex- collapses sometime on Wednesday. Everything stops for the perimeter of a nature reserve, a 3km walk
The 16th-century Spanish Government Mu- perience is highly recommended. Although carnaval. from the town centre. Take bus 11 (Monday to
seum (%321 13 27; www.museumspaansgouvernement tours are supposed to be conducted in Dutch, Preuvenemint As befitting its culinary reputation, each Friday) or 8 or 18 (Saturday and Sunday) from
.nl; Vrijthof 18; admission €2.50; h1-5pm Wed-Sun) is ask for Kitty, an extremely knowledgeable, year Maastricht hosts this foodie festival, which takes over Maastricht station to the Dousberg stop.
where Philip II outlawed his former lieuten- English-speaking guide. the Vrijthof for four days, with 40 stands featuring the
ant Willem the Silent at the start of the Eighty best food and wine from all over the region. It’s called the MIDRANGE
Years’ War. The exhibits feature statues and Tours largest ‘open-air restaurant in the world’. Matuchi (%354 06 92; Kleine Gracht 34; s/d €50/65) These
17th-century paintings. The tourist office can arrange all manner of European Fine Art Foundation Show (TEFAF; www rooms, above the supersmooth bar of the
walking tours and cycling expeditions. .tefaf.com) Europe’s largest annual art show is held in same name (p282), are elegant, minimal and
STREETS, SQUARES & BRIDGES Stiphout Cruises (%351 53 00; Maaspromenade 27; late March at the cavernous MECC exposition centre, just stylish, and surprisingly large for the price
The best way to see Maastricht is to just stroll. adult/child €6/3.75; hdaily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Dec) south of Céramique. More than 200 exhibitors converge range. All include flat-screen TVs for your
Streets not to miss include those south and runs boat cruises on the Maas. On certain on Maastricht offering masterpieces to those with a few supine pleasure.
east of Vrijthof: you’ll be rewarded with a days there are day-long round-trip cruises to million euros to spare. The event is open to the public. Maison Du Chêne (%321 35 23; www.maastrichthotel
medieval labyrinth punctuated by interesting Liege in Belgium (adult/child €18.95/11.25), .com; Boschstraat 104; s/d from €40/58) In an elegant
shops and cafés. although you can get a one-way ticket. Sleeping 1855 building, the Maison’s rooms are very
Onze Lieve Vrouweplein is an intimate café- Maastricht is a popular weekend destination clean and the brasserie on the ground floor
filled square named after its church, the Onze Festivals & Events throughout the year, so reservations are a is class and a half. Beware: it’s right on the
Lieve Vrouwebasiliek (treasury adult/child €2/1; h10am- Three events stand out from the busy Maas- must. The tourist office has a list of private Markt, which can make for a noisy Friday or
5pm), which has parts dating from before 1000 tricht calendar: rooms travellers can book. Saturday night. Ask for rooms at the back.
and may well be built on the foundations of a Carnaval Celebrated with greater vigour in Maastricht Hotel la Colombe (%321 57 74; www.hotellacolombe
Roman cathedral. There is a separate treasury than anywhere else in Europe save Venice (Italy) and Sitges BUDGET .nl; Markt 30; s/d €61/80) Also on the Markt, in a
area that houses gaudy jewels and riches; these (Spain). The orgy of partying and carousing begins the Stayokay Maastricht (% 346 67 77; www.stayokay simple, white building, la Colombe has rooms
you can see for a small and worthwhile fee. Friday before Shrove Tuesday and lasts until the last person .com/maastricht; Dousbergweg 4; dm from €24; s) On that are equally unadorned, but all have a TV
282 L I M B U R G • • M a a s t r i c h t Book accommodation
w wonline
w . l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L I M B U R G • • A r o u n d M a a s t r i c h t 283

and bath. This unassuming but friendly hotel striking, stylish decor, and ever-present, ever- in all, a hot joint in which to have a cool to/from Brussels. Interliner has hourly buses
has a decent café. tasty aquatic meals. Lobster soup with mussels drink. to/from Aachen.
Botel Maastricht (%321 90 23; Maasboulevard 95; s/d and shrimps, anyone? Pan-roasted moonfish? Zondag (%321 93 00; www.cafézondag.nl; Wyckerbrug-
€37/58; i) Two barges lashed together make There’s even a separate fruits-de-mer (seafood) straat 42) Here the cool is a bit more standard: Getting Around
up the Botel, the smaller vessel acting as an menu – grand! Fresh and delightful. the interior is a little more old-fashioned, There is car and motorcycle parking in mas-
exemplary deck for beer drinking when the Ginger (%326 00 22; Tongersestraat 7; mains €10-20; though still jaw-achingly hip. Chow down on sive underground lots by the river.
sun’s out. Inside, rooms are narrow and port- hlunch & dinner) Super-smooth and healthy light lunches, tapas and other bar snacks, as A bicycle shop is in a separate building to
holed for that sea-dog feel, but comfy enough. Asian noodle soups come to Maastricht. And well as musical accompaniment such as live the left as you exit the station.
There’s a beaut little shipshape bar inside. Ginger’s the place to get them. Fabulous, fresh Latin music or breakbeat DJs.
Hotel & Tapperij De Poshoorn (%321 73 34; www ingredients in a serene and wonderful con- John Mullins (%350 01 41; www.johnmullins.nl; AROUND MAASTRICHT
.poshoorn.nl; Stationsstraat 47; s/d €57.50/70) This is a temporary setting. Wyckerbrugstraat 50) This superfriendly Irish pub The hills and forests of southern Limburg
good, simple place with a great café. Restaurant Jean La Brouche (%321 46 09; Tongerse- features a very popular but challenging quiz make for excellent hiking and biking. The
straat 9; 3-course menu €28; hdinner Mon-Sat) This is night on Tuesdays. Sample questions might Drielandenpunt (the convergence of the Neth-
TOP END classic cuisine in a quiet, lovely part of town. include this: ‘What was the first to feature seat erlands, Belgium and Germany) is on the
o Kruisherenhotel Maastricht (% 329 20 Think white tablecloths and cutlery with a bit belts: cars or planes?’ The collective groans highest hill in the country (323m), in Vaals,
20; www.chateauhotels.nl; Kruisherengang 19-23; s/d from of heft to it. If you’re a fan of old-style French can be heard for streets around. 26km southeast of Maastricht. It’s an excellent
€85/145; i) This stunning option is housed cooking, give this place a whirl. In Den Ouden Vogelstruys (%321 48 88; www.vogel driving or biking destination.
inside the former Crutched Friar monastery Mestizo (%327 08 74; www.mestizo.nl; Bredestraat struys.nl; Vrijthof 15) On the main drag, this antique
complex that dates from 1483. The publicity 18; mains €12-19; %lunch & dinner) Need a break bar is a little bit naughty and a little bit nice. Valkenburg
calls it a ‘designer hotel’, but the past hasn’t from French and Dutch cuisine? Try Mes- The entrance has big, old, heavy red curtains, %043 / pop 18,000
been overwhelmed. Where there are modern tizo, a very inspired Latin restaurant serving and inside there are photos of big, old, heavy This small town in the hills east of Maastricht
touches, like moulded furniture and padded up terrific Spanish and Mexican food. Now, men on the wall, big, old, heavy light fittings, has possibly the most overcommercialised
walls, they accent the historical surrounds. exactly who among us can resist marinated and big, old, heavy Trappist beer. centre in the Netherlands, attracting hordes
NOORD BRABANT

NOORD BRABANT
The rooms feature flat-screen TVs and wall- lamb steaks roasted with garlic and chilli? of tour buses. But away from the town are
& LIMBURG

& LIMBURG
length paintings. Sumptuous. Well, vegetarians, obviously – but there’s a Entertainment excellent trails and cycle paths through the
Hotel Derlon (%321 67 70; www.derlon.com; Onze reasonable selection for them, too. Night Live (%09002020158; Kesselskade 43) A night- nearby forests.
Lieve Vrouweplein 6; r from €155; i) The sleekly luxu- club in an old church that opens after mid- The tourist office (%09009798; www.vvvzuid
rious and smartly suave Derlon boasts slim- CAFÉS night at weekends; eclectic musical policy. limburg.nl; Walramplein 5) has a huge selection of
line and slyly singular rooms and enthusiastic Take Five (%321 09 71; Bredestraat 14; lunch €6; hlunch Derlon Theater (%350 50 50; Plein 1992) Near the maps of the area and can assist with bicycle
staff, and the breakfast room in the basement & dinner) Situated on a quiet street parallel to the new library, Derlon has drama and music. The hire. You might start at the over-restored
is built around Roman ruins. A pampering cramped terraces of heaving Platielstraat, Take café has fine river views from the terrace. castle (admission €6; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) above town
and luxurious experience. Five combines fusion cooking with a stark Cinema Lumiere (%321 40 80; Bogaardenstraat 40B) from where trails radiate out through the
interior, chill-out music and engaging staff. Offbeat and classic films are screened on a countryside.
Eating Expect live jazz on many nights. regular basis at this cinema. ASP Adventure (%604 06 75; www.aspadventure.nl)
Maastricht has four restaurants with Miche- gives 90-minute guided tours (€22, minimum
lin stars – this is a very classy dining scene. Drinking Getting There & Away 10 people) of the networks of caves that rid-
To put this into perspective, Amsterdam, Take One (%321 64 23; www.takeonebiercafé.nl; Recht- Maastricht Airport is a small facility served dle the soft sandstone of the hills. There are
with four times the population, has six such straat 28) Cramped and narrow from the outside, by KLM subsidiaries, which have flights to many options, including riding bikes under-
establishments. this 1930s tavern is manages to stock well over London and connecting flights to Schiphol. ground.
100 beers from the most obscure parts of the It is 10km north of the centre – see p304 for Valkenburg is easily reached from Maas-
RESTAURANTS Benelux region. It’s run by a husband-and- more information. tricht by train (€2.50, 12 minutes, two per
Beluga (%321 33 64; www.restbeluga.com; Plein 1992; wife team who also organise beer tastings and Sample train fares and schedules: hour).
hlunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) With two Miche- refer to their customers as ‘victims’. Relax,
lin stars, Beluga leads the pack. This sleek, though, they’ll willingly help you select the Destination Price Duration Frequency Netherlands American Cemetery &
angular, elegant designer restaurant not far brew most appropriate to your tastes. Some (€) (min) (per hr) Memorial
from the Maas features excellent service and of these beers have a huge kick, attaining 10% In Margraten, 10km southeast of Maastricht,
Frenchified cuisine that never fails to im- alcohol volume in some cases. Take One also Amsterdam 26.70 155 1 the Netherlands American Cemetery & Memorial
press with its attention to detail. A recent stocks what’s termed the ‘world’s bitterest Rotterdam 25.70 140 2 (hsunrise-sunset) is dedicated to US soldiers
menu sample included lightly steamed sole beer’ – indeed, sucking lemons is milder but Utrecht 23.10 120 1 who died in ‘Operation Market Garden’ and
with pan-fried langoustines and pommes à la less pleasurable. the general Allied push to liberate the Dutch.
tsarine filled with caviar, butter asparagus and Matuchi (%354 06 92; Kleine Gracht 34) This There is an hourly international service to It’s a sombre memorial with row after row of
a sour cream and black pepper sauce. venue bills itself as an ‘Orient Style Lab’, Liege, from where you can catch trains to silent white crosses – a stark but necessary
Restaurant O (%325 97 47; www.restaurant-o.nl; but it’s a bit more than that: there’s a dash of Brussels, Paris and Cologne. testament to the futility of war.
Rechtstraat 76; mains €18-21; hlunch & dinner) This A Clockwork Orange in the interior design, The bus station is to the right as you exit The bus service to the cemetery runs from
(mainly) seafood restaurant wins us over with mixed with de rigueur Arabian themes. All the train station. Eurolines has one bus a day Maastricht’s train station.
© Lonely Planet Publications
284 L I M B U R G • • N o r t h L i m b u r g www.lonelyplanet.com

NORTH LIMBURG Germans as part of ‘Operation Market Garden’


Clinging to the Maas river, the northern half in 1944. The heart of the battlefield is now the
of Limburg, barely 30km across at its widest site of the sober Nationaal Oorlogs- en Verzetsmu-
point, is a no-nonsense place of industry and seum (National War & Resistance Museum; %0478-64 18 20;
agriculture. Venlo, the major town, has a small www.oorlogsmuseum-overloon.nl; Museumpark 1; adult/child
historic quarter near the train station. Venlo €6.50/5; h10am-5pm), a thoughtful place that ex-
along with Thorn and Roermond are worth a amines the role of the Netherlands in WWII.
quick look if you are changing trains for the To reach the museum take the hourly train
hourly service to Cologne. to Venray from either Roermond (€7.20, 40
minutes) or Nijmegen (€6.20, 25 minutes).
Nationaal Oorlogs- en Verzetsmuseum Then call a treintaxi (see p309) and buy your
Overloon, a tiny town on the border with ticket (€4.10) from the ticket machine. The
Noord Brabant, was the scene of fierce bat- museum is 7km from the station. Make ar-
tles between the Americans, British and the rangements with the driver for your return.
NOORD BRABANT
& LIMBURG

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