THE PATTERNS The Pattem or Template is the graphic representation of the structure of an article of clothing, and it forms the basis for the successive phases of assembling and finishing the garment. ‘The Pattern can be made by hand or with the help of a com- puter. There are essentially three methods for the realization of hand- ‘made patterns: by Draping or Moulage; by Basic Pattern; and by Flat Pattern, ‘The Moulage method is @ way of constructing the pattern di- recly on the mannequin using pieces of muslin fabric. How- ever, it requires considerable technica skl, and is employed by many dressmakers, especially in France and in the USA. ‘The Basic Pattern method is mainly used to create patterns for people with fitting problems, so that the standard patterns can not be adapted for their use. It requires a detailed measure- ment of all the parts of the figure relative to the garment to bemade ‘The Flat Pattern method consists in making a basic pattern that can be used to create many other pattems of different styles that take into consideration all the characteristics of the indvidual figure, including a comfortable fit appropriate to the garment. Every company has a basic pattern that corresponds to its target customers, so that its entire line apparel is suited to that figure CCOMPUTER-GENERATED PATTERNS For the creation of the patterns for the new collections, apparel manufacturers usually use sultably modified archive patterns. Nowadays this is carried out using computeraided design (Cad) systems. Wh the help ofthis system, the basic patterns, made manually and digitalized, or created direcly on the computer, are saved inthe computer files and retrieved and transformed as needed, INDUSTRIALIZATION OF THE PATTERN The industrialization of the pattem came along with the intro- duction of seam allowances and markers to facilitate the subse- quent processes of the cutting and assembly of the garment. In particular, markers were added for: notching, punching and tailor’ tacks, inserts and sits, and seam allowances. ‘The notching is carried out on the pattem edges using special punches, and it comes in different shapes and sizes, depending con its purpose. Natches can be found in various places along the pattern edges and may indicate: 16 ‘The seam allowance : ‘The centre of the pattern. ~ Gathering and tension, The base of the dart. - Identification of the front (one notch) and the back (two ntches). - Matching of the sides of the pattern to be sewn together. - Tipper placement. - Vent pleat. ~ Hemlines = Waistline - Inside of curves. = Outer shoulder point for Kimonos. Pocket and trim placement ~ Neck centre on colar. - Head of the sleeve. PUNCHING AND TAILOR'S TACKS ‘These are small holes made on the pattern and then on the fabric using a special dil, or else by marking up the fabric using a template. They indicate ~The start and the end of the darts - The curves of the darts = The angles - Button and buttonhole placement - Trim place- tment - Pocket placement, Seam ALLOWANCES The size of the seam allowance varies in relation to the pos tion, the type of garment, and the kind of fabric used, and it ranges from 1 cm to 2.5 om, For seams made using a serger, the allowances range from 0.7 to 12cm.